Greeting. thanks for the explanation, this method is much more efficient. how do you set the flash to fire equally in burst mode. the flash lights up 2 times and the rest of the images are black. I have a godox TT685II and a canon eos 90d
I don't know if I am wrong but if you are moving slowly towards your subject whilst taking shots doesn't the subject become slightly larger with each shot. Would this show in the final stacked image. Obviously not but why not. Thankyou for your video. Ken
@@tiktokfavorite3070 That's not how it works. The image size is still related to the lens to subject distance. Would be great if it didn't, because you could then shoot macro from your bedroom window 😁
Yes, it will gradually increase in size and I've never been able to confirm whether stack processing applications correct for that during the alignment phase.
@@davidf6326 we were talking about focus stacking by rocking your body front to back or moving your hand to get the entire insect in focus in post processing... Not talking about taking picture from a mile away
@@tiktokfavorite3070 I realise that. I was purposely exaggerating to make the point. The 1:1 specification of the lens doesn't address the commenter's question. The lens to subject distance still affects the size of the image on the sensor, even over the very small distances involved in shooting manual macro stacks. In fact, the distances are actually not that small if you consider them relatively. Starting from, say, five inches and advancing only half an inch is already a ten percent difference from start to finish. That will result in a significant increase in the image size, which would likely impact on the stacking process. What I'd be interested to know, is whether the applications that process focus stacks adjust for this 'blooming' in the alignment phase. In fact, I think that may have been the question Ken was getting at.
Hello ❤ can you tell Me your flash mode If course manual but my speed light flash is not as fast as you show in this vidéo I have the godox 860 !!!c Thanks
Yes, I find the same problem. It seems nobody's speedlights are as fast or powerful as the ones used by RUclipsrs. 🤔 They all seem to be using 1/32 or even 1/64, but when I try that in the real world the flash power is nowhere near enough to properly light the subject or to freeze hand and wind related movement.
@macro_by_rory 1:43 Did you find him at home?🧐 Beautiful spider😍 I'm watching without sound, please forgive me for the stupid questions😅 3:35 You're wearing outerwear indoors, how cold was it there?
Hi, I understand your concern, however many insects are quite happy to remain in direct bright sunlight with no eyelids for many hours at a time, so I doubt it does them any harm, there is a possibility some may feel a little alarmed, but I find they are more bothered by the sound of the shutter than the flash itself.
Bruh they eyes work different, for them it’s just a fast source of light they can support even more than direct strong sunlight a flash gives you more detail focus stack gives you more depth of field by just bursting, for the insect it doesn’t cause any harm they aren’t mammals More likely you can damage the insect if the flash falls of the hot shoe
nice and clear video! thanks for sharing those tips! and love the small aquarium/terrarium for holding smal insects/plants at home... now I want one haha
Excellent class. Congratulations. Now a question: what brand and model of flash did you use in the demonstration. I have a Sony A7IV. Thanks. Hermano, from Brazil.
Hi Rory and Venus Optics, thanks for the video! I have never used burst for exposures and have always clicked, moved focus and clicked till the entire depth of the subject has been covered. Burst might take a little getting used to, but I am going to try it just the same! Thank you!
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it. Yeah that sniping method can work fine, however using burst and your camera's maximum speed can really help get those images you need really quickly, which is so helpful when dealing with such shy and fast moving subjects. It takes a little time to master, but when you do, you should definitely find a higher success rate. 🙏
Yes this will work, however I did pick up a small 1960's German rail last year that needs to be put to work. Of course, that means tripod. I originally bought it with the notion of making my own stereo view cards.
I want to see a new improved version of the Laowa 15mm Macro Lens without shift-mode, thank you, I even would like to see other wide angle focal lengths Lenses with macro mode !
Sure no problem! Canon EOS R7, Laowa RF 90mm 2:1 and Godox V860ii with Cygnustech diffuser. My general base settings for focus stacking are F8, 1/200s and ISO 320. Flash from 1/64 to 1/32 manual. Burst speed set at high speed+ (electric first curtain) 🙏
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Great vid...what was your flash settings? How did you get it to fire so fast?
x2
How do you set the flash to perform burst flashes? Is that using multiple? I have godox v350 and I noticed sometimes that the flash won't fire :(
Great vid, Rory. Some great tips there 👍
Cheers Luke! Glad you enjoyed it, buddy! 😊🙏
That retouch tool for helicon would have been extra useful today . I spent the entire day using clone in lr to fix the stack lol
what flits/flash cap is that ?
Greeting. thanks for the explanation, this method is much more efficient. how do you set the flash to fire equally in burst mode. the flash lights up 2 times and the rest of the images are black. I have a godox TT685II and a canon eos 90d
I don't know if I am wrong but if you are moving slowly towards your subject whilst taking shots doesn't the subject become slightly larger with each shot. Would this show in the final stacked image. Obviously not but why not. Thankyou for your video. Ken
It is macro lens , shooting 1:1 actual scale
@@tiktokfavorite3070 That's not how it works. The image size is still related to the lens to subject distance. Would be great if it didn't, because you could then shoot macro from your bedroom window 😁
Yes, it will gradually increase in size and I've never been able to confirm whether stack processing applications correct for that during the alignment phase.
@@davidf6326 we were talking about focus stacking by rocking your body front to back or moving your hand to get the entire insect in focus in post processing... Not talking about taking picture from a mile away
@@tiktokfavorite3070 I realise that. I was purposely exaggerating to make the point. The 1:1 specification of the lens doesn't address the commenter's question. The lens to subject distance still affects the size of the image on the sensor, even over the very small distances involved in shooting manual macro stacks.
In fact, the distances are actually not that small if you consider them relatively. Starting from, say, five inches and advancing only half an inch is already a ten percent difference from start to finish. That will result in a significant increase in the image size, which would likely impact on the stacking process. What I'd be interested to know, is whether the applications that process focus stacks adjust for this 'blooming' in the alignment phase. In fact, I think that may have been the question Ken was getting at.
great video, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it! 🙏
❤excellent. Thanks 🙏
Hello ❤ can you tell
Me your flash mode
If course manual but my speed light flash is not as fast as you show in this vidéo
I have the godox 860 !!!c
Thanks
Yes, I find the same problem. It seems nobody's speedlights are as fast or powerful as the ones used by RUclipsrs. 🤔 They all seem to be using 1/32 or even 1/64, but when I try that in the real world the flash power is nowhere near enough to properly light the subject or to freeze hand and wind related movement.
What's the flash settings in / off camera for those fast bursts ??
Hi, a manual setting of 1/64 will allow a burst of around 100 on this flash, and 1/32 gives about 45.
@macro_by_rory 1:43 Did you find him at home?🧐 Beautiful spider😍 I'm watching without sound, please forgive me for the stupid questions😅
3:35 You're wearing outerwear indoors, how cold was it there?
It is! But not a UK spider.. Not really cold, but no heating in my office either 😅😅😅
1:03 single shot?
Yep! To demonstrate the differences 😁
I take macros but single shots, i will never burst light continously on those poor insects for my hobby .. what if it blinds them or stress them
Hi, I understand your concern, however many insects are quite happy to remain in direct bright sunlight with no eyelids for many hours at a time, so I doubt it does them any harm, there is a possibility some may feel a little alarmed, but I find they are more bothered by the sound of the shutter than the flash itself.
Bruh they eyes work different, for them it’s just a fast source of light they can support even more than direct strong sunlight a flash gives you more detail
focus stack gives you more depth of field by just bursting, for the insect it doesn’t cause any harm they aren’t mammals
More likely you can damage the insect if the flash falls of the hot shoe
How do you handle mosquitoes in your house?
Oh brother.
Lmao
nice and clear video! thanks for sharing those tips!
and love the small aquarium/terrarium for holding smal insects/plants at home... now I want one haha
Really helpful, thanks very much!!
By far one of the best described videos out there. Thank you.
Thanks Rory. I notice that they are CR2 files. Was it a Canon camera? What settings do you use for the rapid fire of the flash? Thanks.
What flash are you using?
Excellent class. Congratulations. Now a question: what brand and model of flash did you use in the demonstration. I have a Sony A7IV. Thanks. Hermano, from Brazil.
Hi Hermano, sorry for the late reply. It is the Godox V860ii
Which camera body has been used in this video?
Hi Rory and Venus Optics, thanks for the video! I have never used burst for exposures and have always clicked, moved focus and clicked till the entire depth of the subject has been covered. Burst might take a little getting used to, but I am going to try it just the same! Thank you!
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it. Yeah that sniping method can work fine, however using burst and your camera's maximum speed can really help get those images you need really quickly, which is so helpful when dealing with such shy and fast moving subjects. It takes a little time to master, but when you do, you should definitely find a higher success rate. 🙏
Thanks for the video man🙌And a couple more words for promotion❤
Thanks to you too my friend! Really glad you enjoyed it! 😊🙏
Yes this will work, however I did pick up a small 1960's German rail last year that needs to be put to work. Of course, that means tripod. I originally bought it with the notion of making my own stereo view cards.
I want to see a new improved version of the Laowa 15mm Macro Lens without shift-mode, thank you, I even would like to see other wide angle focal lengths Lenses with macro mode !
May I ask whether a movement like front to back would suffice or can you do a left to right or vice versa?
Can you specify the camera, lens and flash settings you used? Thanks.
Sure no problem! Canon EOS R7, Laowa RF 90mm 2:1 and Godox V860ii with Cygnustech diffuser. My general base settings for focus stacking are F8, 1/200s and ISO 320. Flash from 1/64 to 1/32 manual. Burst speed set at high speed+ (electric first curtain) 🙏
Thanks🙏@@macro_by_rory