I have used no glue at all on any of my prints. I love this printer.im on like my 5th print and not one problem! Get this printer! no brainer. I can now just print stuff i want with out messing with printer adjustment.
Glad you are sharing your thoughts and feedback on this printer. I have the 'non' pro version that i was able to get for only $250. my experience and feedback might be worth considering in a follow up. 1) the build plate has NO ISSUES. You must first ( as someone in your comments mentioned ) wash it with Dawn soap before printing; verify the bed temperature as it likes to make the bed 40-50 for pla, which is too low and should be 55-65; auto leveling each print is NOT NECESSARY; and you do not need to use glue - even PETG and PLA stick and remove just fine. 2) i printed a modified enclosure for mine and it is wonderful. no filtration like on the pro but really nice. 3) several firmware updates and software updates have stabilized the network printing and i have never had an issue - almost no failed prints, and i use the wifi to monitor a lot. i have not added a camera to mine, but FF has one and i will be adding it soon and will test it. 4) they have released both a phone app and a variation of Orca Slicer specific for this printer and it does connect via wifi with it. This is a fantastic addition and shows how active they are with this printer.
Have you tried Orca slicer? I've had my 5m Pro for about a month now, and once I switched from flashprint to Orca the printer has been "set it, and forget it." I don't know what it is about flashprint and first-layer adhesion but they seem to be at odds with each other. I haven't had adhesion problems or the need to relevel with Orca slicer. The downside however is that you lose network connectivity. Kinda sucks, but tolerable for how well the printer performs with Orca.
I have just 5m version (not a pro), but it a fantastic. I can print petg for 300mm/s. Excellent quality of print. However, there are a few upgrades that I can recommend: 1. Printable anti ghosting/ringing plate for X and Y 2. Printable back panel that allow to insert a big fan for motherboard
The levelling issue might apply to older firmware, I personally did 37 hours of printing in PETG and PLA and never had issues with the adhesion. I've only done the calibration/leveling in the initial setup. It's worth mentioning that my printing bed was of a gold/brown colour, instead of black like in the video. Could that be an improved version?
I got a question, I'm planning on buying my very first 3d printer and I'm going for an fdm type like this. Does these enclosed printers usable in a basement and not worry about the smell and fumes? Or do I have to vent it out still?
I've been running my old Flashforge in a bedroom and there are basically no fumes (with PLA at least). The Dreamer model has an enclosure but I leave the top off. The Adventurer 5M Pro model is enclosed and it has HEPA filters. You should have zero issues with fumes. In general, fumes aren't really an issue with FDM printers. SLA and other resin printers have the noxious fumes in my experience.
"I have a strong grasp of Arduino programming, although I haven't had the chance to gain practical experience due to financial constraints. I am seeking assistance to acquire the necessary funds to purchase an Arduino. Any support, even $0.1, would be greatly appreciated. I'm currently residing in Ethiopia, which adds difficulty to obtaining the required resources. Please respond if you can help. pleas reply for me, Thank you."
So after watching this nightmare Hardware and how well it does not operate I would just say this to anybody looking to get into 3D printing. Go out to a Micro Center spend $100 and buy yourself an Ender Pro 3 3D printer and don't look back lol. I'm not sure how much they're going to try to charge for this Abomination that doesn't even work right but anything more than free is still too much. 🤣🤦♂️
"Go out to a Micro Center spend $100 and buy yourself an Ender Pro 3 3D printer and don't look back lol. " This is by far the worst advice I have ever seen to a beginner in the current year. The A1 exists and you think its worth anyones time to suffer through the ender 3? Downright evil.
@BeefIngot years ago when I first started out my very first 3D printer was an Ender 3 pro. I was able to set that printer up correctly and have literally no problems printing off my first handful of prints lol. It's not that hard to do there is plenty of videos on people of this successfully using it and even showing beginners how to set up and work it correctly. If you can't figure out how to use an Ender 3 Pro you'll never be prepared to figure out how to use this printer considering how many issues it already has with it lol. I now own eight 3D printers and I still go to my Ender 3 Pro for a lot of my prints that I need done right the first time around. To promote this 3D printer especially with all of its current issues that it has is a crime in and of itself lol. Three other people that I know one of them happened to be my cousin all got a Ender3 Pro and did not have a problem using those printers they worked fine right out of the box as advertised after initial setup lol. Do you know what can't be said about that? This printer lol. 🤣🤦♂️
@@firewoodwarrior4396 Personally I just don't do vrollers anymore. Having a core motion system part wear so quickly is frustrating. Its not noticeable till you suddenly startd having problems and don't known why.
The problem with bed adhesion can be solved quite easily - wash it multiple times with hard brush and dishwashing liquid, and with IPA afterwards. I think it has some oily residues from the factory when you first unbox it. Also it is crucial to use proper bed heating (60 degrees for PLA). The included sample prints have bed temperature set to 30 degrees, that's why they don't stick well. Also the included glue is quite useless. For ABS prints i use an ordinary paper gluestick which is superior. For PLA and PET-G I don't use any glue at all.
For the adhesion, run the bed a bit hotter and for level before print just add g29 after g28 in your slicer start gcode
I have used no glue at all on any of my prints. I love this printer.im on like my 5th print and not one problem! Get this printer! no brainer. I can now just print stuff i want with out messing with printer adjustment.
Glad you are sharing your thoughts and feedback on this printer. I have the 'non' pro version that i was able to get for only $250. my experience and feedback might be worth considering in a follow up.
1) the build plate has NO ISSUES. You must first ( as someone in your comments mentioned ) wash it with Dawn soap before printing; verify the bed temperature as it likes to make the bed 40-50 for pla, which is too low and should be 55-65; auto leveling each print is NOT NECESSARY; and you do not need to use glue - even PETG and PLA stick and remove just fine.
2) i printed a modified enclosure for mine and it is wonderful. no filtration like on the pro but really nice.
3) several firmware updates and software updates have stabilized the network printing and i have never had an issue - almost no failed prints, and i use the wifi to monitor a lot. i have not added a camera to mine, but FF has one and i will be adding it soon and will test it.
4) they have released both a phone app and a variation of Orca Slicer specific for this printer and it does connect via wifi with it. This is a fantastic addition and shows how active they are with this printer.
What app?
Have you tried Orca slicer? I've had my 5m Pro for about a month now, and once I switched from flashprint to Orca the printer has been "set it, and forget it." I don't know what it is about flashprint and first-layer adhesion but they seem to be at odds with each other. I haven't had adhesion problems or the need to relevel with Orca slicer. The downside however is that you lose network connectivity. Kinda sucks, but tolerable for how well the printer performs with Orca.
It has firmware updates. They also made the Klipper firmware available from their website. You should make a video with it running Klipper.
I have just 5m version (not a pro), but it a fantastic. I can print petg for 300mm/s. Excellent quality of print.
However, there are a few upgrades that I can recommend:
1. Printable anti ghosting/ringing plate for X and Y
2. Printable back panel that allow to insert a big fan for motherboard
Hi, I would like to know where you got the anti ghosting for the x and Y axis, could you point me in the right direction? :)
You should be able to add g-code to do a bed levelling automatically. Most slicers let you add before and after print g-code.
They just released Klipper firmware for the 5M series and made the designs open source as well apparently!
Should help a lot to get rid of the issues you experienced once people have it all setup nicely.
Only the .6 and .8 are hardened. The .25 and .4 are not
You can buy them online for 40$ I believe the 5mpro and 5m are interchangeable
@@PRFcoryYes, they are.
The levelling issue might apply to older firmware, I personally did 37 hours of printing in PETG and PLA and never had issues with the adhesion. I've only done the calibration/leveling in the initial setup. It's worth mentioning that my printing bed was of a gold/brown colour, instead of black like in the video. Could that be an improved version?
I've never had to use glue on my prints and I'm a noob at printing. only time I've had adhesion issues is models that are very thin.
I use AquaNet hairspray
I got a question, I'm planning on buying my very first 3d printer and I'm going for an fdm type like this. Does these enclosed printers usable in a basement and not worry about the smell and fumes? Or do I have to vent it out still?
I've been running my old Flashforge in a bedroom and there are basically no fumes (with PLA at least). The Dreamer model has an enclosure but I leave the top off. The Adventurer 5M Pro model is enclosed and it has HEPA filters. You should have zero issues with fumes. In general, fumes aren't really an issue with FDM printers. SLA and other resin printers have the noxious fumes in my experience.
I know some folks proper into 3d printer sfuff, looks like a great hobby
Just started printing. Got an ender 3v3 ke. The printer is good. But you don't really realize how small of a build plate 220x 220.
Happy New Year Jason. Wishing you a wonderful 2024 my friend.
Thanks. Will probably keep a longterm eye on the unit feedback.
First
"I have a strong grasp of Arduino programming, although I haven't had the chance to gain practical experience due to financial constraints. I am seeking assistance to acquire the necessary funds to purchase an Arduino. Any support, even $0.1, would be greatly appreciated. I'm currently residing in Ethiopia, which adds difficulty to obtaining the required resources. Please respond if you can help. pleas reply for me, Thank you."
I haven’t got $0.1 but my grandson gave me 0.1 BTC, will that do?
ok thanks
@@husaberg650
Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro really top printer, i tested him.
So after watching this nightmare Hardware and how well it does not operate I would just say this to anybody looking to get into 3D printing.
Go out to a Micro Center spend $100 and buy yourself an Ender Pro 3 3D printer and don't look back lol.
I'm not sure how much they're going to try to charge for this Abomination that doesn't even work right but anything more than free is still too much. 🤣🤦♂️
"Go out to a Micro Center spend $100 and buy yourself an Ender Pro 3 3D printer and don't look back lol. "
This is by far the worst advice I have ever seen to a beginner in the current year.
The A1 exists and you think its worth anyones time to suffer through the ender 3? Downright evil.
@BeefIngot years ago when I first started out my very first 3D printer was an Ender 3 pro. I was able to set that printer up correctly and have literally no problems printing off my first handful of prints lol.
It's not that hard to do there is plenty of videos on people of this successfully using it and even showing beginners how to set up and work it correctly. If you can't figure out how to use an Ender 3 Pro you'll never be prepared to figure out how to use this printer considering how many issues it already has with it lol.
I now own eight 3D printers and I still go to my Ender 3 Pro for a lot of my prints that I need done right the first time around.
To promote this 3D printer especially with all of its current issues that it has is a crime in and of itself lol.
Three other people that I know one of them happened to be my cousin all got a Ender3 Pro and did not have a problem using those printers they worked fine right out of the box as advertised after initial setup lol.
Do you know what can't be said about that? This printer lol. 🤣🤦♂️
@@RunicGamingYT I dont know who you expect to believe that, but its prerty crappy of you to recommend ender 3s to beginners in 2023.
I would say get Ender 3 v3 SE, mine has been perfect.
@@firewoodwarrior4396 Personally I just don't do vrollers anymore. Having a core motion system part wear so quickly is frustrating. Its not noticeable till you suddenly startd having problems and don't known why.
The problem with bed adhesion can be solved quite easily - wash it multiple times with hard brush and dishwashing liquid, and with IPA afterwards. I think it has some oily residues from the factory when you first unbox it. Also it is crucial to use proper bed heating (60 degrees for PLA). The included sample prints have bed temperature set to 30 degrees, that's why they don't stick well. Also the included glue is quite useless. For ABS prints i use an ordinary paper gluestick which is superior. For PLA and PET-G I don't use any glue at all.
Happy new year,Jason. Waiting for your reply via email.