This was soooo much easier than every other method I’ve seen. I was able to clean all my tracks, clean out the old grease in holes where the new rollers are inserted and relubed all my hinges and greased the rollers. My door sounds soooo much quieter! Thank you for the great video and easy instructions!!
I'm 78 and after watching this I'm going to order new rollers and tackle this myself. I'll be saving a little money and have a fun project to do. Thanks!
I've watched dozens of roller replacement videos and this method makes, by far, the most sense. I also appreciate that the author took the time to answer a question from a commenter that I had, namely whether removing the track would cause the door to move out of plane. She explained it would not and gave many reasons. Excellent answer and knowledge! Really very impressive tutorial. My rollers are coming in the mail today and I'm going to do the job exactly as described here. Many thanks L35 in Colorado from a grateful guy in Kentucky.
Thank you for showing us the right way to do this job. I saw other videos bending up the track & knew there had to be a better easier way without compromising the tracks. I marked the brackets locations on the wall & everything went smooth & easy.
I had a wheel that was off track, l landed on this video and it really helped. I watched a few steps and was able to understand everything due to the clarity and quality of your instructions,great job! Thank you so much.
As a previous person mentioned, I am also up there in years, this video showed everything in nice detail, took me about an hour, and now movement of my garage door is nice, smooth, and quiet. Thank you very much.
Thanks. Your video was very complete and easy to understand. I'm somewhat mechanical, but had limited experience with garage doors. You're a great teacher.
This video is very helpful and I was able to fix it myself while garage guy quoted $200. I needed remove the sensor module attached to the track with bolt and nut. Simple turn the but off right? Well, the threads are already messed up and nut wont come off and bolt head turns with it. interestingly bold head was smooth spherical and noting to grab onto with pliers or anything. After struggnling for 2 hrs, I decided to just use dremmel and hack saw to cut it off. I used a spare bolt and nut and now I got the head that I can grab with Allan wrench. Rest was quick fix following this video. She did good job putting this video together - Thank you
This is brilliant! I didn't want to add to the drag by crimping the channel or create metal fatigue by bending the track. I also did not want to possibly cause myself harm. This is a brilliant way to avoid both of those problems. Thank you!!
Thanks for this video. Of all the techniques (track bending, hinge removal...) this was the easiest and fastest. One addition I'd offer - before taking the vertical track off, mark the bracket positions on the wall so they can be restored to their previous positions easily.
Thank you so much for this video. You saved me $250. That is what I was quoted by a garage door company. I guess they thought because I am a 75 yr. old female I was an easy target.
This is the best video and the simplest method I found for replacing your garage door rollers. Too bad I found it when I was finished with all but the bottom rollers. The only thing I would add is to mark the side bracket locations with a sharpy. Following this method, there is no need to remove each hinge - one by one. For the bottom roller, it is much better than bending the rail or taking a chance on the cable tension being low enough in the up position as others have advocated. I first took off the hinges one by one. That was a waste of time. Following this lady's method with this rail removal, I had 5 bolts on each side to remove. The way I did it I had 24 bolts on each side. Then I found her video when it was time to remove the bottom roller!
Right on, I'm glad the video helped! Yes, I know what you mean about removing the hinges one at a time, because I did that before I realized that I could just remove the track. Thanks for your comment, and great tip about the sharpie marks!
I typically don't add a comment, just a like and subscribe. However, this was genius and worked quite well. I didn't feel the concern with the cable tension wire on either side of the garage door. It went rather smoothly, just a little time and did it by myself. Thank you very much!!!
beautifully done. Your method is the easiest, instead of pulling each latch with its roller. I like it. I am about to do this project because my door is not closing properly and the rollers are about to break. Thank you.
Thank You so Much for posting this Video, especially about the bottom Bracket and the Cable Tension. I'm that person that would have taken the bottom bracket off and have my face split in two.
Thanks L35! I’m heading to the garage right now to do this. I bought new nylon rollers but couldn’t figure out how to get them in without taking all the hinges off. This is way better.
Great video, thank you for posting! Yours was the only one I found that used this idea and it was what I needed. My rails aren't quite the same as shown but... Genius!
This method worked perfectly for me and I suspect it was a lot easier than bending the garage door track like I've seen in other videos. I highly recommend the blue (Xike) rollers with 6200-2RS ball bearings. I originally bought cheap rollers from North Shore Commercial Door but the bearings in those seemed so crappy that I threw them away without installing them.
Thank you sooo much!! I try to do as many DIY as I can. My top wheel came apart and I was afraid I was going to shell out big dollars. You saved me. 😊 Thanks!
Thank you! This is just the best and informative video on how it is done properly. I just completed this procedure on two 50 year old doors. Simple, safe and done. The only thing missing from this video is info on what rollers to use. There are some cheap junk nylon rollers out there. For just a couple bucks more, per door, make sure you use SEALED bearing rollers (will have 6200zz sealed bearings inside the nylon wheels). All the others are junk, IMHO...
Thanks, I'm glad it helped! Yes, I agree that the 6200zz are good rollers -- they are so good, in fact, that people are counterfeiting them and selling them. I have a short video on how to identity the counterfeits, because I was sent some: ruclips.net/video/ypXF4xeaFwI/видео.html Thanks for watching, and thanks for you comment!
Excellent video. On my large double garage door, I am going to replace the tension springs and all of the hinges, rollers, side and center bearing /brackets, and cables, so I don't think I will need to remove the lower tracks. I am going to keep this method in mind, though! Great job!
Update on my hinge and roller installation: I DID use your method to replace the rollers, as both tracks were not aligned properly. I had to remove and straighten both tracks ( it is a 35 year old door that had way too many previous repairs!) cut both of them off at the bottom, then shim them away from the wall to allow the door to fit flush with the opening. Now the new rollers and hinges fit properly and the door slides up and down easily by hand. Thanks again!
Thank you!!! It worked great! My top hinges were different, but it solved my problem which was as the door was closing, it would stop and reverse itself, presumably because of too much resistance from bent rollers.
A very good video, but I was a bit concerned about the bottom one with the cable attached, so I just put a little bend in the track, changed out the rollers, and pounded it back flush.
Why are the top/bottom rollers longer than the others? How important is that when replacing old rollers with newer ones? Most of the sets I see for roller replacements are all the same length.
I don't know for certain, but have been informed that the longer (typically 7 inch) top and bottom rollers are used on heavier residential doors, double bay doors, and generally on most commercial doors as a safety measure to prevent the top or bottom roller from dislodging from the track in case the cable comes off the drum during operation. So, they say to replace your rollers with whatever size is consistent with the original design. I hope that helps : )
Curious if you should brace the bottom of the door, when the track is off, could the tension spring bend the door up? Hope that makes sense. Great video, I am a bit worried stripping out the screws that hold my hinges to the door.
Yes - I think I understand what you're saying -- I think you're saying that you're concerned that perhaps the cable from the spring might pull on the bottom panel, causing the door to move out of plane and partially fold at the hinge if the bottom roller is not constrained by the track on both sides, so you're thinking about bracing the bottom panel to prevent it from moving perpendicular to the track/allowing the hinge to fold. If that's what you're thinking -- I haven't encountered that problem, perhaps for these reasons: firstly, if you do only one side at a time (remove track on one side only), the door as a unit and each panel individually are still constrained by the rollers and track on the opposite side. The bottom panel is also under the weight of the door panels above it, plus the resistance from the garage door opener arm, so that the bottom panel stays put. Also, you can get an idea about whether or not the door is going to move at all when you loosen the lag screws that connect the track braces to the door jamb: if the bottom panel has any tendency to move out of plane, you'll know it when you loosen the lower lag screw, because it would pull the track with it as it attempts to move. If you loosen those lag screws and can wiggle the track (as in the video), then you know the panels are not going to move. As for stripping the screws/screwholes on the door hinges -- yes, it seems that might be problem on some doors that use sheet metal screws that fasten into sheet metal points on the panels, if the screws are removed several times. But if the screws are just removed a few times, you usually are just fine with sheet metal screws going back into sheet metal. As you can see in the video, this door is older and actually has carriage bolts for the hinges, so stripping is not an issue for this door. If you do decide to remove the hinges, and you have sheet metal screws into sheet metal and the hole strips, then remember that you can usually just step up a size if you do strip them. If the screw strips (which isn't too common if its just going into thin sheet metal), then you can buy new sheet metal or self-tapping screws to replace it. Thanks for your comment, and good luck with you repairs!
Quick question: the top and bottom rollers on the door you show have longer stems, and the ones in the middle are barely as long as the brackets are wide. Does any of this matter? Could have used all 4" stems ok to replace all of the rollers? Or do you need the 7" stems at top and bottom? Thanks
Good question -- I don't know the answer: two of the garage doors on this house were single car doors, and those had all 4" stem rollers. The larger door for the two-car bay had the longer stems and top and bottom (this is the door shown in the video). I just replaced each roller with the same size as it had before. Good luck!
Do you think replacing the roller is the solution for the bottom roller that comes off of the track when I close the garage door? It did this a few times several months ago and now. Just scared to open and close it because I don't want the whole door tho break.
I have a very heavy 50-year-old wooden double garage door. Should I be concerned that when I remove the track that the door will move towards me and collapse?
Thanks for the video, Have an odd question for you. I would like to 'bend' the track to have it an inch lower at the final end of the track. bought old house with old garage (not built for automatic door opener) . someone installed a garage door opener and it is hitting the truss beam and damaging it. the trusses have been removed almost half way back (oh my) and tiny bit of support left. My investor sent some guys to take a look at it and they 'cut the support out where the opener was hitting it.. omg. they attached metal strapping to the roof trusses.. (yes the ones they just cut the support out of) and thought they did good. So now my garage only has support trusses in the back 2.. the rest are all cut. (I will be adding scissor truss support) hopefully this give you a great picture.. Now the garage door does open all the way but support is my issue. I was in a garage that was very old school, on a 100 yr old property, the roof was one slant toward the back.. higher in the front and very low in the back.. (almost like a giant shed) looked like a homemade job but geniusly installed an automatic door system by bending the track to follow the roof line downward.. (no trusses) .. so the door goes up and then rides the ceiling track down toward the end of the track.. I would like to do that in my garage so I can replace the support beam that was cut out.. (less of a bend than the 100 yr old garage of course maybe just an inch or two) . Any ideas how to bend that track.. tools needed.. etc.. Thanks sorry so long.. appreciate any advice you may have. Have a wonderful week!
Hi -- I'm not totally clear with what you are describing, but if you mean that you'd like to bend the garage door track at its end such that the roller path will point up or down at the end, then you can actually buy tracks that are already bent a little in that fashion -- they are specialized tracks that are for low-profile door kits. You can see the bent tracks in these pictures: www.homedepot.com/p/Clopay-Garage-Door-Low-Headroom-Conversion-Kit-4125477/100021966 www.menards.com/main/hardware/garage-door-parts-accessories/ideal-door-reg-double-track-low-headroom-kit-for-overhead-garage-doors/low-headroom/p-1444433956510.htm If you are having an issue where the garage door panel is touching or interfering with the roof trusses of the garage, then you might consider a "low clearance" or "low headroom" kit. There are a couple of solutions for low clearance, including those kits above, but also there are special hinged rollers you can use to swap the top rollers on your door, without having to change anything with the track: store.preferreddoorservice.com/garage-door-low-headroom-quick-turn-brackets-pair-w-rollers Here are some solutions in action: This video shows the newer style of low-profile rollers (like those linked above from "preferreddoorservice.com": ruclips.net/video/pwyM-vVQQI4/видео.html This guy was very inventive in solving a low-clearance issue by moving and extending the garage opener's arm and moving the chain/belt track back: ruclips.net/video/H353IbKvnsw/видео.html As for bending the track yourself: I believe the tracks are cold-formed galvanized steel. Bending them transversely (meaning the in the "width" direction) so as to make a straight track curve down would be very difficult without specialized bending tools. And since they are galvanized, do NOT try to heat them with a torch and bend them (zinc fumes are very toxic). Hopefully one of the tracks shown in the pictures is what you mean, and you so can just buy them. If you have a commercial door shop in your town, you can perhaps swing by there and they would likely sell you just the track you need if you can show them a picture of what you are talking about. I hope this helps -- good luck!
Hi. The peg that holds the tension cable is rubbing against parts of the door track. I'm not sure when that started happening, but I just started hearing it squeal. It's not very old. Is this common? Is there a common adjustment needed? I have a photo, too.
I would contact the door installer -- it sounds like the track might have been placed incorrectly. There shouldn't be rubbing between those parts; I'm not aware of any adjustments that would be required if it was installed properly in the first place. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thank you so much for your insight. I think you're right. I believe if I widened the distance between the left and right door tracks, then it would give enough clearance so that the peg would not rub. I would first try to slide all the tracks as far to the outside where the brackets are currently placed. If that doesn't work, then I'll try moving the brackets out. However, I might be limited to how much I can move it, because each side of the garage has a block of cement, which might be in the way of moving it much further; and if that's the case, maybe the door is a bit too wide for the space -- or I could cut the cement, I suppose. If either of the above methods work, I suppose I need to make sure that the cable is still positioned over the peg properly when finished. I'll have to learn about that part. I'm the second owner, I don't know who installed it; but I'm hoping to fix it myself.
This is insane, just pull the hinges (4 bolts ea) 2- #1 , 2- #2, 2- #3 and 10 rollers 10-15 min tops to replace everything (2 top rollers door down. 2 bottom rollers door up (8 nuts r&r)), I just did this 1st time 1/2 hr ago
@@jeffbarron5500what does reset the door mean? As far as insane, I wouldn't say that, it's just an alternative that has its pros and cons like anything else. BTW that bottom roller with the door up is harder than it looks on many setups Especially with extra long stems.
It depends on the bracket -- the bracket on the door shown in this video (07:04) is very easy to remove, but there are different styles. You might do search for the type of bracket you have, and see if there is a match. If you have a low-profile bracket, then they are similar but much bigger than the bracket shown here, and they have a hinge in the them. Good luck!
![Garage Door Rollers and Hinges Replacement [How to *2019 Updated]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cwYdmlnpfWI/mqdefault.jpg)
This was soooo much easier than every other method I’ve seen. I was able to clean all my tracks, clean out the old grease in holes where the new rollers are inserted and relubed all my hinges and greased the rollers. My door sounds soooo much quieter! Thank you for the great video and easy instructions!!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Looked at 4 different videos. Liked your method the best. I am 81 but had no trouble following your video and installing new vinyl rollers. Thank you.
Awesome. I'm over 70 years old and this made it easy. Saved me hours and a lot of labor.
Wow, that's great -- well done!
I'm 78 and after watching this I'm going to order new rollers and tackle this myself. I'll be saving a little money and have a fun project to do. Thanks!
Good luck, thanks for watching!
You should do more of these videos - you’re very good at explaining things! Thanks so much! This saved me a ton of time!
Thanks for the comment -- I'm so glad it helped and saved you time! Thanks for watching!
Your voice is so soothing Makes the job more pleasant Nice one
Excellent video! Clear, detailed, great close ups, succinct commentary. Thank you.
I've watched dozens of roller replacement videos and this method makes, by far, the most sense. I also appreciate that the author took the time to answer a question from a commenter that I had, namely whether removing the track would cause the door to move out of plane. She explained it would not and gave many reasons. Excellent answer and knowledge! Really very impressive tutorial. My rollers are coming in the mail today and I'm going to do the job exactly as described here. Many thanks L35 in Colorado from a grateful guy in Kentucky.
Wow, thank you for your comment, and I'm so glad the video helped! : )
I've watched a lot of these videos and this is the only one that I saw that made sense. Nice job not deforming the track.
Thank you for showing us the right way to do this job. I saw other videos bending up the track & knew there had to be a better easier way without compromising the tracks. I marked the brackets locations on the wall & everything went smooth & easy.
I had a wheel that was off track, l landed on this video and it really helped. I watched a few steps and was able to understand everything due to the clarity and quality of your instructions,great job! Thank you so much.
Amazing video. I've seen others where they bend the track to open it up - to me this seems pretty extreme. Your approach makes much more sense.
This is the BEST video for replacing garage door rollers - Thanks very much. Keep up the excellent work !!
Thanks for watching, and thanks for your comment -- I hope the video helps! : )
As a previous person mentioned, I am also up there in years, this video showed everything in nice detail, took me about an hour, and now movement of my garage door is nice, smooth, and quiet. Thank you very much.
Wow, great job on your DIY! Thanks for watching : )
Thanks. Your video was very complete and easy to understand. I'm somewhat mechanical, but had limited experience with garage doors. You're a great teacher.
This video is very helpful and I was able to fix it myself while garage guy quoted $200. I needed remove the sensor module attached to the track with bolt and nut. Simple turn the but off right? Well, the threads are already messed up and nut wont come off and bolt head turns with it. interestingly bold head was smooth spherical and noting to grab onto with pliers or anything. After struggnling for 2 hrs, I decided to just use dremmel and hack saw to cut it off. I used a spare bolt and nut and now I got the head that I can grab with Allan wrench. Rest was quick fix following this video. She did good job putting this video together - Thank you
This is brilliant! I didn't want to add to the drag by crimping the channel or create metal fatigue by bending the track. I also did not want to possibly cause myself harm. This is a brilliant way to avoid both of those problems. Thank you!!
Thanks for watching! : )
Thanks for this video. Of all the techniques (track bending, hinge removal...) this was the easiest and fastest. One addition I'd offer - before taking the vertical track off, mark the bracket positions on the wall so they can be restored to their previous positions easily.
Great tip -- thanks for sharing, and I'm so glad the video helped! : )
Thank you so much for this video. You saved me $250. That is what I was quoted by a garage door company. I guess they thought because I am a 75 yr. old female I was an easy target.
Love the vid. This is the best method for relaxing the rollers. I tried bending a track out, and it did not go well.
This is the best video and the simplest method I found for replacing your garage door rollers. Too bad I found it when I was finished with all but the bottom rollers. The only thing I would add is to mark the side bracket locations with a sharpy.
Following this method, there is no need to remove each hinge - one by one. For the bottom roller, it is much better than bending the rail or taking a chance on the cable tension being low enough in the up position as others have advocated. I first took off the hinges one by one. That was a waste of time.
Following this lady's method with this rail removal, I had 5 bolts on each side to remove. The way I did it I had 24 bolts on each side. Then I found her video when it was time to remove the bottom roller!
Right on, I'm glad the video helped! Yes, I know what you mean about removing the hinges one at a time, because I did that before I realized that I could just remove the track. Thanks for your comment, and great tip about the sharpie marks!
Thank you so much for your video. I was able to replace 12 door rollers including 2 rollers at the bottom with your way. 🥰
Outstanding - great job on your DIY!
Thank you very much. I watched the dozen of these videos and this one was the best and easiest to work with. Thanks again..
I typically don't add a comment, just a like and subscribe. However, this was genius and worked quite well. I didn't feel the concern with the cable tension wire on either side of the garage door. It went rather smoothly, just a little time and did it by myself. Thank you very much!!!
Wow, that's great - well done on your DIY, and thanks for watching! : )
beautifully done. Your method is the easiest, instead of pulling each latch with its roller. I like it. I am about to do this project because my door is not closing properly and the rollers are about to break. Thank you.
I would take a sharpie and mark the bracket nuts before removing them to make sure they are lined up exactly where they were before removal.👍👍
Used this method and completed in 30 minutes! Thank you….
Excellent and detailed video. And very relaxing voice ! Thank 👍👍
Excellent. I've been holding off on this project not know how to replace the bottom roller w/o damaging the track. Thank you
Thank You so Much for posting this Video, especially about the bottom Bracket and the Cable Tension.
I'm that person that would have taken the bottom bracket off and have my face split in two.
Did this today using your method and it was quick and easy. Great video!
Nice, great job on your DIY and thanks for watching! : )
The instruction was careful and thorough. The video is well done. Thank you!
Thanks L35! I’m heading to the garage right now to do this. I bought new nylon rollers but couldn’t figure out how to get them in without taking all the hinges off. This is way better.
That's great -- good luck! Thanks for your comment : )
Thanks for the very sensible video. Definitely the
best video for removing and installing garage door rollers.
Thank you for this! I was planning to remove each hinge/roller assembly. You saved me a ton of time bro!
Hi..I did this today and replaced all but the top rollers by removing the tracks (one side at a time!). Your video is very good, thanks!
Great video, thank you for posting! Yours was the only one I found that used this idea and it was what I needed. My rails aren't quite the same as shown but... Genius!
You saved me hours. Was going to remove each bracket. Thanks and great explanation.
I'm so glad it helped! Thanks for your comment : )
Your beautiful work is the first option of my roller changing this summer. Thanks a lot.
Very fast, easy and safe. Thank you so much for your expertise.
Thanks for the very well presented demonstration. It gives me confidence to replace my rollers.
You can do it, good luck!
Well explained! Thank you! Just replaced my springs now going to replace the wheels.
Great job on doing your own springs! The wheels will be easier and faster to that job. Good luck!
Thanks for showing me this video will be doing it your way. Great job
Excellent instructional video. You seem to have covered all of the details of this very well. Thank you.
Thank you! I hope the video helps, and good luck with your repair!
Fantastic video, headed out to replace my rollers now with your method!!
You have a very teachable voice and style. Thanks for the great video.
Thank you, that's very kind -- good luck with your repair!
Thank You! Just completed changing my rollers, your way was the best....
Well done on doing it yourself! I'm so glad the video helped : )
This method worked perfectly for me and I suspect it was a lot easier than bending the garage door track like I've seen in other videos. I highly recommend the blue (Xike) rollers with 6200-2RS ball bearings. I originally bought cheap rollers from North Shore Commercial Door but the bearings in those seemed so crappy that I threw them away without installing them.
Thanks for sharing your tip, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you sooo much!! I try to do as many DIY as I can. My top wheel came apart and I was afraid I was going to shell out big dollars. You saved me. 😊 Thanks!
Wow, that's so cool! Great job on DIY'ing! Thanks for your comment : )
Thank you! This is just the best and informative video on how it is done properly. I just completed this procedure on two 50 year old doors. Simple, safe and done. The only thing missing from this video is info on what rollers to use. There are some cheap junk nylon rollers out there. For just a couple bucks more, per door, make sure you use SEALED bearing rollers (will have 6200zz sealed bearings inside the nylon wheels). All the others are junk, IMHO...
Thanks, I'm glad it helped! Yes, I agree that the 6200zz are good rollers -- they are so good, in fact, that people are counterfeiting them and selling them. I have a short video on how to identity the counterfeits, because I was sent some:
ruclips.net/video/ypXF4xeaFwI/видео.html
Thanks for watching, and thanks for you comment!
Great video ! Good safe way to install new rollers ! Thank you !
Excellent video. On my large double garage door, I am going to replace the tension springs and all of the hinges, rollers, side and center bearing /brackets, and cables, so I don't think I will need to remove the lower tracks. I am going to keep this method in mind, though! Great job!
Update on my hinge and roller installation: I DID use your method to replace the rollers, as both tracks were not aligned properly. I had to remove and straighten both tracks ( it is a 35 year old door that had way too many previous repairs!) cut both of them off at the bottom, then shim them away from the wall to allow the door to fit flush with the opening. Now the new rollers and hinges fit properly and the door slides up and down easily by hand. Thanks again!
Thank you, you made it look simple. Going to do this job today.
Fantastic approach! We had some squeakers that i kept hitting with silicon spray periodically. This would have been sooo much more effective.
Thank you!!! It worked great! My top hinges were different, but it solved my problem which was as the door was closing, it would stop and reverse itself, presumably because of too much resistance from bent rollers.
Great job fixing your door and saving money! I'm so glad the video helped!
Genius... you just saved me a lot of time and headache.
I used this method for the second track after the fiasco of bending the track on my first side.
Thanks, I just it today with some ball bearing nylon rollers. Your video made it happen. Hopefully I won't have to do it again.
I highly recommend this method way more safe!
U are a Godsend! i know what 2 go once home. Bravo!
Thank you very much you saved my time ☺️
You made it Very simple
Excellent video; thorough. Thank you.
Wow. I'm impressed! Thank you.
Very helpful video Thanks..
Great video, now I can do it myself. Thanks!
And I just finished replacing the rollers just the way you described. Done in half an hour with no bending of tracks.
Great job! You saved yourself some $$ for sure : )
Thanks. I did this job today.
Thank you, nice instructional video.
Very good instructional video content
Clear instructions!! Thank you!!
A very good video, but I was a bit concerned about the bottom one with the cable attached, so I just put a little bend in the track, changed out the rollers, and pounded it back flush.
Very well explained. Thank You
You're welcome, and thanks for your comment -- good luck!
Thanks, this is a great video.
Why are the top/bottom rollers longer than the others? How important is that when replacing old rollers with newer ones? Most of the sets I see for roller replacements are all the same length.
I don't know for certain, but have been informed that the longer (typically 7 inch) top and bottom rollers are used on heavier residential doors, double bay doors, and generally on most commercial doors as a safety measure to prevent the top or bottom roller from dislodging from the track in case the cable comes off the drum during operation. So, they say to replace your rollers with whatever size is consistent with the original design. I hope that helps : )
Curious if you should brace the bottom of the door, when the track is off, could the tension spring bend the door up? Hope that makes sense. Great video, I am a bit worried stripping out the screws that hold my hinges to the door.
Yes - I think I understand what you're saying -- I think you're saying that you're concerned that perhaps the cable from the spring might pull on the bottom panel, causing the door to move out of plane and partially fold at the hinge if the bottom roller is not constrained by the track on both sides, so you're thinking about bracing the bottom panel to prevent it from moving perpendicular to the track/allowing the hinge to fold.
If that's what you're thinking -- I haven't encountered that problem, perhaps for these reasons: firstly, if you do only one side at a time (remove track on one side only), the door as a unit and each panel individually are still constrained by the rollers and track on the opposite side. The bottom panel is also under the weight of the door panels above it, plus the resistance from the garage door opener arm, so that the bottom panel stays put.
Also, you can get an idea about whether or not the door is going to move at all when you loosen the lag screws that connect the track braces to the door jamb: if the bottom panel has any tendency to move out of plane, you'll know it when you loosen the lower lag screw, because it would pull the track with it as it attempts to move. If you loosen those lag screws and can wiggle the track (as in the video), then you know the panels are not going to move.
As for stripping the screws/screwholes on the door hinges -- yes, it seems that might be problem on some doors that use sheet metal screws that fasten into sheet metal points on the panels, if the screws are removed several times. But if the screws are just removed a few times, you usually are just fine with sheet metal screws going back into sheet metal. As you can see in the video, this door is older and actually has carriage bolts for the hinges, so stripping is not an issue for this door. If you do decide to remove the hinges, and you have sheet metal screws into sheet metal and the hole strips, then remember that you can usually just step up a size if you do strip them. If the screw strips (which isn't too common if its just going into thin sheet metal), then you can buy new sheet metal or self-tapping screws to replace it.
Thanks for your comment, and good luck with you repairs!
Great video. Thank you
Thanks for watching! : )
Great video!
Is there any issue with the high cable tension while the door is down and the rail completely removed? Can the door section suddenly bend up?
Solid video. Thanks.
Quick question: the top and bottom rollers on the door you show have longer stems, and the ones in the middle are barely as long as the brackets are wide. Does any of this matter? Could have used all 4" stems ok to replace all of the rollers? Or do you need the 7" stems at top and bottom? Thanks
Good question -- I don't know the answer: two of the garage doors on this house were single car doors, and those had all 4" stem rollers. The larger door for the two-car bay had the longer stems and top and bottom (this is the door shown in the video). I just replaced each roller with the same size as it had before. Good luck!
What kind of grease is best to use on the stems of the rollers?
Do you think replacing the roller is the solution for the bottom roller that comes off of the track when I close the garage door? It did this a few times several months ago and now. Just scared to open and close it because I don't want the whole door tho break.
Thank you! Great job👍
I have a very heavy 50-year-old wooden double garage door. Should I be concerned that when I remove the track that the door will move towards me and collapse?
Thanks for the video, Have an odd question for you. I would like to 'bend' the track to have it an inch lower at the final end of the track. bought old house with old garage (not built for automatic door opener) . someone installed a garage door opener and it is hitting the truss beam and damaging it. the trusses have been removed almost half way back (oh my) and tiny bit of support left. My investor sent some guys to take a look at it and they 'cut the support out where the opener was hitting it.. omg. they attached metal strapping to the roof trusses.. (yes the ones they just cut the support out of) and thought they did good. So now my garage only has support trusses in the back 2.. the rest are all cut. (I will be adding scissor truss support) hopefully this give you a great picture.. Now the garage door does open all the way but support is my issue. I was in a garage that was very old school, on a 100 yr old property, the roof was one slant toward the back.. higher in the front and very low in the back.. (almost like a giant shed) looked like a homemade job but geniusly installed an automatic door system by bending the track to follow the roof line downward.. (no trusses) .. so the door goes up and then rides the ceiling track down toward the end of the track.. I would like to do that in my garage so I can replace the support beam that was cut out.. (less of a bend than the 100 yr old garage of course maybe just an inch or two) . Any ideas how to bend that track.. tools needed.. etc.. Thanks sorry so long.. appreciate any advice you may have. Have a wonderful week!
Hi -- I'm not totally clear with what you are describing, but if you mean that you'd like to bend the garage door track at its end such that the roller path will point up or down at the end, then you can actually buy tracks that are already bent a little in that fashion -- they are specialized tracks that are for low-profile door kits. You can see the bent tracks in these pictures:
www.homedepot.com/p/Clopay-Garage-Door-Low-Headroom-Conversion-Kit-4125477/100021966
www.menards.com/main/hardware/garage-door-parts-accessories/ideal-door-reg-double-track-low-headroom-kit-for-overhead-garage-doors/low-headroom/p-1444433956510.htm
If you are having an issue where the garage door panel is touching or interfering with the roof trusses of the garage, then you might consider a "low clearance" or "low headroom" kit. There are a couple of solutions for low clearance, including those kits above, but also there are special hinged rollers you can use to swap the top rollers on your door, without having to change anything with the track:
store.preferreddoorservice.com/garage-door-low-headroom-quick-turn-brackets-pair-w-rollers
Here are some solutions in action:
This video shows the newer style of low-profile rollers (like those linked above from "preferreddoorservice.com":
ruclips.net/video/pwyM-vVQQI4/видео.html
This guy was very inventive in solving a low-clearance issue by moving and extending the garage opener's arm and moving the chain/belt track back:
ruclips.net/video/H353IbKvnsw/видео.html
As for bending the track yourself: I believe the tracks are cold-formed galvanized steel. Bending them transversely (meaning the in the "width" direction) so as to make a straight track curve down would be very difficult without specialized bending tools. And since they are galvanized, do NOT try to heat them with a torch and bend them (zinc fumes are very toxic). Hopefully one of the tracks shown in the pictures is what you mean, and you so can just buy them. If you have a commercial door shop in your town, you can perhaps swing by there and they would likely sell you just the track you need if you can show them a picture of what you are talking about.
I hope this helps -- good luck!
Thanks! Very helpful!
Is it really a big issue to bend the track a bit and then straighten it? After I've straightened the track, you would barely notice.
Great job, 👏👏👏
Brilliant!! 👍🏻👍🏻
Gr8 video.
Hi. The peg that holds the tension cable is rubbing against parts of the door track. I'm not sure when that started happening, but I just started hearing it squeal. It's not very old. Is this common? Is there a common adjustment needed? I have a photo, too.
I would contact the door installer -- it sounds like the track might have been placed incorrectly. There shouldn't be rubbing between those parts; I'm not aware of any adjustments that would be required if it was installed properly in the first place. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Thank you so much for your insight. I think you're right. I believe if I widened the distance between the left and right door tracks, then it would give enough clearance so that the peg would not rub. I would first try to slide all the tracks as far to the outside where the brackets are currently placed. If that doesn't work, then I'll try moving the brackets out. However, I might be limited to how much I can move it, because each side of the garage has a block of cement, which might be in the way of moving it much further; and if that's the case, maybe the door is a bit too wide for the space -- or I could cut the cement, I suppose. If either of the above methods work, I suppose I need to make sure that the cable is still positioned over the peg properly when finished. I'll have to learn about that part. I'm the second owner, I don't know who installed it; but I'm hoping to fix it myself.
Thank you so much.
Thanks for watching! : )
Very good thank you...
Thanks for watching! : )
Why do your rollers have different lengths i.e. 4inch and 7inch
I don't know -- that's how they were installed, so I replaced to match. Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
This is insane, just pull the hinges (4 bolts ea) 2- #1 , 2- #2, 2- #3 and 10 rollers 10-15 min tops to replace
everything (2 top rollers door down. 2 bottom rollers door up (8 nuts r&r)), I just did this 1st time 1/2 hr ago
And yes I watched a few videos before trying, garage door guy wanted $300 cash
(just to reset the door and 1 new roller)
@@jeffbarron5500what does reset the door mean? As far as insane, I wouldn't say that, it's just an alternative that has its pros and cons like anything else. BTW that bottom roller with the door up is harder than it looks on many setups
Especially with extra long stems.
Nice vid. Thanks
You're welcome, I'm so glad it helped!
This is good!
Great repair! But you should've cleaned the track while it was out.
That's a great tip -- thanks for sharing : )
How do you replace the top roller? If I remove the bracket there is no way to replace it.
It depends on the bracket -- the bracket on the door shown in this video (07:04) is very easy to remove, but there are different styles. You might do search for the type of bracket you have, and see if there is a match. If you have a low-profile bracket, then they are similar but much bigger than the bracket shown here, and they have a hinge in the them. Good luck!
I've never found the need do take the vert off when changing rollers.