Great video!!! Straight to the point. I used your video as an instruction to replace the alternator on my Toyota Camry 2007, 3.5L. I did not cut the clip (3:56) but unscrew the bracket from the alternator. Also, I unscrewed the radiator top mount panel (4x10mm bolts), air intake (3x10mm bolts) and the hood latch.(3x10mm bolts)that connected to the radiator top mount panel . This allowed me to tilt the radiator and get extra clearance without removing the radiator. Your video was a big help and saved me about $400. Thank you very much!
Thanks MRM!! Your video saved me about $300. I got it done in about 4 and a half hours. Plus the satisfaction of saying I did it myself. Like others mentioned previously, I unbolted the lower bracket then disconnected the wire harness clip. Then I removed the bracket so I could put it on the new alternator before re-installing it. Also, a tip for others; I bought the 130 amp alternator instead of the stock 100 amp. I did the research ahead of time. All connections fit and it was actually cheaper. Now I have more available power as well. The higher amp model won’t hurt anything as it only produces what is needed at the time.
This method absolutely works. I would remove upper radiator support and pull radiator forward. When removing, turn the alternator so the back of the unit is facing up and remove with the push on plug near the radiator neck.
Thanks MRM. I was able to get my alternator off by un-bolting that bracket from the engine and alternator thanks to your vid and instruction. Had to add more words to my cursing list before it was all over. I also took the the two 14mm bolts off and could not remove it. After seeing your vid, I was able to remove after taking the brackets off (2-12mm nuts). Also took the hose off of the thermostat housing for more room.
Glad to help! Yep, a lot of cursing at this end too. Those damn engineers just seem to go out of their way to make it harder and harder.......probably to keep people from doing their own work
THANK YOU! My boyfriend was going nuts trying to get the last bolt, and your video definitely helped us out! 2005 Avalon, but basically the same car. Appreciate your help!
I used a method close to yours. I took the bracket off the alternator instead leaving it on as the risk of damaging the radiator was to high with that hardened bracket left on the alternator. Also i didnt have a low profile jack to lift the 2006 Avalon so i didnt remove the tire. I have a flexible camera i used to locate the fasteners. I wished i had a serpentine belt tool.
YES ! Good video. Bottom A/C wire big problem. I broke mine crank sensor pig tail not available that I could find unless buying new harness. $$$$$. I was able to solder mine but hours of hassle. Great Video. I think some videos are same engine but in camery. Much smaller engine compartment requiring more accessories removal
Excellent video, Thank You. Now I'm sure I can do it myself saving over 500.00. Feel like I owe you a lunch at least. Didn't want to remove all those components. Some guys took out fans, radiator, all kind of mounts and brackets. I was worried about that wire at the bottom most of all but I have the identical screwdriver with a filed tip already. Thanks again...
Wow..tganks so much for the video..i just tried doing my sister's 2010 Camry today n i couldn't figure out what was holding it n it's that same bracket your showing.ill finish up tomm..thanks...
No need to remove anyting radiator related. I just did this job today. Remove the heat shield and dip stick. Push to the side and slide out the alternator.
I had to do this in the driveway using a light after sundown and managed to rip a two wire connector (white wire / black wire) I couldn't see under the manifold as it's retainer was still on the alternator bracket (argh). Now I'm wondering what this is. I think I traced it to behind AC compressor but it's such a tight fit I can't tell. Any suggestions here would be helpful. I'm hoping I can unpin and solder my mistake
On my 2008 Avalon reaching in from the bottom with the wheel off is not a option. The bolt is about 5 or 6 inches above the access panel. and there is not room to get a hand on it.
The trickiest part was removing the alternator once everything is disconnected. 2009 Avalon - looks the same as this video. I unbolted the manifold cover and dipstick as shown - and moved them to the right. It's impossible without this step. I was still bumping into the left fan motor plastic struts. Tried everything. I looked at removing the fan assembly but it has a couple wiring harnesses attached and several elec. connections. The risk of damaging those and creating a bigger problem was a concern. I settled on using a hacksaw blade and removing the fan strut closest to the alternator. This was still too tight. So then I sawed through the top of the next one to the right, so it would bend away to the right. I'll JB plastic weld those back later. It was still a bear to remove - you wiggle and twist and slide it to the right until its clear of the radiator fill port, then kinda ratchet it up twisting back and forth against the engine on the back and the radiator housing on the front, gaining 1/4" of rotation and 1/4' of "out of there" while pulling and cursing. No gorilla action, just very strong steady rocking back forth and a little more "up" each time. It is binding the whole way. Don't try going "up" until you are clear and to the right of that radiator port. Once the 4-pin logic port is clear of the fan housing you're home free.
There should be a video showing that if you search on youtube. You just have to remove the right front tire, and then the plastic access panel so that you can get to the belt tensioner. Make sure that you make a drawing of the correct belt routing, or find a pic of it on the net before you remove it. I think that you just need a long 3/8" ratchet to fit into the hole. Then move the ratchet to release the tension, and put a small allen wrench or nail into the slot to keep the tension off while you remove the belt
You can if you want to pay more. I always go after market myself. RockAuto is your safest place to shop for one, but sometimes I go to ebay for a better deal....just be careful there
Could you possibly explain how you managed to get the alternator out after taking all the bolts out? I've been trying for hours and it seems the fans are in the way
Hey nicholas, I just did it like I explained in the video. I took out the bolt on the oil dip stick, and moved it out of the way. Then I took out the bolts for the heat shield around the exhaust. I was able to just squeeze out the alternator by turning it in the right direction, and pushing the dip stick and heat shield to the right as far as they would go
I didn't know the alternator was going bad. One night when I was coming back from the store, all my lights and instrument panel went dead. Luckily I was able to still drive the car home on what was left of the battery. I checked the battery voltage when I got home and it 10.5v. The atlernator wasn't putting out any voltage at all.
@@kaikenjr Did you replace the alternator and now it won't start? If so, you will have to check that wire somehow to see if it was broken. You will probably have to remove the alt so that you can trace that wire....good luck)) tough place to be able to see what's going on
@@kaikenjr Not really....I didn't have this problem to deal with. Somehow you need to check continuity of the wire to make sure that it wasn't cut. It could also be that part of the shielding was removed and the wire could be grounding out. You should check your fuses because one could be blown. You can splice the wire back together if you can see/find the break or damage. Then use electrical tape to cover the repair completely.
@Sir Harris you have to take alternator back off. Then take bolts out of the compressor and move it forward. You will see the wires and crank sensor. Go to dealer. The sensor harness is 11 but separate wires are 20 a pc
Mrm, If they Keep making things they think we can't fix, We'll just keep finding new ways to fix them. I also, keep an older car on hand in the event it takes longer to repair my newer model vehicle. People always say to me you should have taken it to the auto shop or dealer. I just say to them, after they finish charging you for ridiculous priced labor and ramped up parts prices, you could have had a new set of tools and satisfaction of doing your own maintenance. It seems to work for almost everything for me.
Be nice if Toyota designed this with a two piece fan shroud. Also two things...Be sure you research the correct AMP for your car. The people at the parts store in most cases are not sure and will give you what comes up first on their screen . Avoid the SWAG method!! SOME WILD ASS GUESS !!! Most important...be sure you have them bench test the replacement, before leaving the store. Ask me how I learned...The replacement showed a bad voltage regulator. Had to do the job twice...what a PITA !!!
Are you working on a Camry or Avalon? It was a very tight fit bringing it up and out, but it was doable by turning the alternator wherever it needed to be turned to squeeze it through. Maybe the Camry has slightly less room....I don't know for sure.
Great video!!! Straight to the point. I used your video as an instruction to replace the alternator on my Toyota Camry 2007, 3.5L. I did not cut the clip (3:56) but unscrew the bracket from the alternator. Also, I unscrewed the radiator top mount panel (4x10mm bolts), air intake (3x10mm bolts) and the hood latch.(3x10mm bolts)that connected to the radiator top mount panel . This allowed me to tilt the radiator and get extra clearance without removing the radiator. Your video was a big help and saved me about $400. Thank you very much!
Thanks MRM!! Your video saved me about $300. I got it done in about 4 and a half hours. Plus the satisfaction of saying I did it myself.
Like others mentioned previously, I unbolted the lower bracket then disconnected the wire harness clip. Then I removed the bracket so I could put it on the new alternator before re-installing it.
Also, a tip for others; I bought the 130 amp alternator instead of the stock 100 amp. I did the research ahead of time. All connections fit and it was actually cheaper. Now I have more available power as well. The higher amp model won’t hurt anything as it only produces what is needed at the time.
This method absolutely works. I would remove upper radiator support and pull radiator forward. When removing, turn the alternator so the back of the unit is facing up and remove with the push on plug near the radiator neck.
Thanks MRM. I was able to get my alternator off by un-bolting that bracket from the engine and alternator thanks to your vid and instruction. Had to add more words to my cursing list before it was all over. I also took the the two 14mm bolts off and could not remove it. After seeing your vid, I was able to remove after taking the brackets off (2-12mm nuts). Also took the hose off of the thermostat housing for more room.
Glad to help! Yep, a lot of cursing at this end too. Those damn engineers just seem to go out of their way to make it harder and harder.......probably to keep people from doing their own work
THANK YOU! My boyfriend was going nuts trying to get the last bolt, and your video definitely helped us out! 2005 Avalon, but basically the same car. Appreciate your help!
I used a method close to yours. I took the bracket off the alternator instead leaving it on as the risk of damaging the radiator was to high with that hardened bracket left on the alternator. Also i didnt have a low profile jack to lift the 2006 Avalon so i didnt remove the tire. I have a flexible camera i used to locate the fasteners. I wished i had a serpentine belt tool.
YES ! Good video. Bottom A/C wire big problem. I broke mine crank sensor pig tail not available that I could find unless buying new harness. $$$$$. I was able to solder mine but hours of hassle. Great Video. I think some videos are same engine but in camery. Much smaller engine compartment requiring more accessories removal
Awesome video. Yeah the wiring harness bracket about drove me nuts but the rest was pretty straight forward.
These videos are so much more informative when shot during the actual procedure and showing the step by step removal, not afterwards..
Yes, but to do that properly it takes another person to work the camera.....it also makes the videos longer
Excellent video, Thank You. Now I'm sure I can do it myself saving over 500.00. Feel like I owe you a lunch at least. Didn't want to remove all those components. Some guys took out fans, radiator, all kind of mounts and brackets. I was worried about that wire at the bottom most of all but I have the identical screwdriver with a filed tip already. Thanks again...
Good luck with it! We all need to save money...that's why we are on youtube.
Wow..tganks so much for the video..i just tried doing my sister's 2010 Camry today n i couldn't figure out what was holding it n it's that same bracket your showing.ill finish up tomm..thanks...
No need to remove anyting radiator related. I just did this job today. Remove the heat shield and dip stick. Push to the side and slide out the alternator.
Never done it that way before I'll try it tonight
I had to do this in the driveway using a light after sundown and managed to rip a two wire connector (white wire / black wire) I couldn't see under the manifold as it's retainer was still on the alternator bracket (argh). Now I'm wondering what this is. I think I traced it to behind AC compressor but it's such a tight fit I can't tell. Any suggestions here would be helpful. I'm hoping I can unpin and solder my mistake
Yeah, it's a bitch....that's why I made note of it in this video......good luck with it
On my 2008 Avalon reaching in from the bottom with the wheel off is not a option. The bolt is about 5 or 6 inches above the access panel. and there is not room to get a hand on it.
The trickiest part was removing the alternator once everything is disconnected. 2009 Avalon - looks the same as this video. I unbolted the manifold cover and dipstick as shown - and moved them to the right. It's impossible without this step. I was still bumping into the left fan motor plastic struts. Tried everything. I looked at removing the fan assembly but it has a couple wiring harnesses attached and several elec. connections. The risk of damaging those and creating a bigger problem was a concern. I settled on using a hacksaw blade and removing the fan strut closest to the alternator. This was still too tight. So then I sawed through the top of the next one to the right, so it would bend away to the right. I'll JB plastic weld those back later. It was still a bear to remove - you wiggle and twist and slide it to the right until its clear of the radiator fill port, then kinda ratchet it up twisting back and forth against the engine on the back and the radiator housing on the front, gaining 1/4" of rotation and 1/4' of "out of there" while pulling and cursing. No gorilla action, just very strong steady rocking back forth and a little more "up" each time. It is binding the whole way. Don't try going "up" until you are clear and to the right of that radiator port. Once the 4-pin logic port is clear of the fan housing you're home free.
There should be a video showing that if you search on youtube. You just have to remove the right front tire, and then the plastic access panel so that you can get to the belt tensioner. Make sure that you make a drawing of the correct belt routing, or find a pic of it on the net before you remove it. I think that you just need a long 3/8" ratchet to fit into the hole. Then move the ratchet to release the tension, and put a small allen wrench or nail into the slot to keep the tension off while you remove the belt
Ahhhh that bracket is a little bastard! Good thing I didn’t start prying on with the big pry bar😂
Good to hear! Smart move on upgrading the amps too.
Good Video. I just unbolted that little bracket instead of prying the wire harness off of it.
Only way to really do that easily is by removing the tire
My fist alternator was replaced at 85k miles with aftermarket. I got 160k and my alternator is bad again. Should I go with OEM?
You can if you want to pay more. I always go after market myself. RockAuto is your safest place to shop for one, but sometimes I go to ebay for a better deal....just be careful there
Thank Thank Thank you so so much. ☺️
Could you possibly explain how you managed to get the alternator out after taking all the bolts out? I've been trying for hours and it seems the fans are in the way
Hey nicholas, I just did it like I explained in the video. I took out the bolt on the oil dip stick, and moved it out of the way. Then I took out the bolts for the heat shield around the exhaust. I was able to just squeeze out the alternator by turning it in the right direction, and pushing the dip stick and heat shield to the right as far as they would go
MRM thanks for replying. I was able to get it out by shimmying it around and a lot of force
you are welcome...hope you did not pull too hard on that cable!
good job, what was your voltage ?, mine seems to be trending downward @ 13.3
I didn't know the alternator was going bad. One night when I was coming back from the store, all my lights and instrument panel went dead. Luckily I was able to still drive the car home on what was left of the battery. I checked the battery voltage when I got home and it 10.5v. The atlernator wasn't putting out any voltage at all.
I think that it's the crankshaft sensor wire. The car won't run if you damage it
I think that is why my car won't start. What do you recommend
@@kaikenjr Did you replace the alternator and now it won't start? If so, you will have to check that wire somehow to see if it was broken. You will probably have to remove the alt so that you can trace that wire....good luck)) tough place to be able to see what's going on
@@MRM-wp4gr any advice on checking the wire.
@@kaikenjr Not really....I didn't have this problem to deal with. Somehow you need to check continuity of the wire to make sure that it wasn't cut. It could also be that part of the shielding was removed and the wire could be grounding out. You should check your fuses because one could be blown. You can splice the wire back together if you can see/find the break or damage. Then use electrical tape to cover the repair completely.
@Sir Harris you have to take alternator back off. Then take bolts out of the compressor and move it forward. You will see the wires and crank sensor. Go to dealer. The sensor harness is 11 but separate wires are 20 a pc
it's good video but it doesn't show how to to get to belt tensioner to loosen serpentine belt. Can someone show me how?
Holy shit , all ur tools on the engine cover lol , asking for trouble when they all fall lol.
Thank you
how did it come out I am having trouble with the 2007 camry 3.5L
Thanks Do I need to remove the FANS?, Thanks
Mine came out good. You don't need to remove the fans.
having same problem 2011 camry. im wondering if 07+ have different sized alternators
After going through your vid a few times I'm pretty sure the avalon has more working room for your method. Makes sense since the Avalon is a Camry xl
Mrm, If they Keep making things they think we can't fix, We'll just keep finding new ways to fix them. I also, keep an older car on hand in the event it takes longer to repair my newer model vehicle. People always say to me you should have taken it to the auto shop or dealer. I just say to them, after they finish charging you for ridiculous priced labor and ramped up parts prices, you could have had a new set of tools and satisfaction of doing your own maintenance. It seems to work for almost everything for me.
How to remove an alterator...thats already been removed wtf
What does that wire go to?
AC compressor
Be nice if Toyota designed this with a two piece fan shroud.
Also two things...Be sure you research the correct AMP for your car. The people at the parts store in most cases are not sure and will give you what comes up first on their screen .
Avoid the SWAG method!! SOME WILD ASS GUESS !!!
Most important...be sure you have them bench test the replacement, before leaving the store.
Ask me how I learned...The replacement showed a bad voltage regulator. Had to do the job twice...what a PITA !!!
I've done everything in this video and I still can't get the alternator out I don't know what else to do I need help
Are you working on a Camry or Avalon? It was a very tight fit bringing it up and out, but it was doable by turning the alternator wherever it needed to be turned to squeeze it through. Maybe the Camry has slightly less room....I don't know for sure.
Better view available if you took off the decorative cowling too! js
Went from a 2002 Altima that took less than an hour to remove easy then went to a 2011 by camry lord did toyota try to make everything difficult 😂
oky