Top advice! One word of warning, I’ve been tightening up drivers for years. The magnet from the tweeter of a pair of Acoustic Zen Adagio’s was so powerful, it literally pulled the Allen key from my fingers at least 2-3cm away - damaged the thin ribbon tweeter 😢 - had to remove and send both tweeters back to USA for repair - use extreme caution around tweeters
tightening the speaker bolts is just compressing the wood after the initial fitting. Removing all connectors and putting them back , undoing the mains plugs , put a new fuse in is the same as buying a expensive mains lead ... you are a top man for revealing the BS
I’ve got some 1988 Tannoy M20s there immaculate but the screws had definitely never been touched so I tightened them up I noticed a difference straight away 👍🏻
For those renting holiday properties from time to time I also recommend to bring your hifi system and try it out in different buildings and rooms. The variations in sound quality are astounding. For me it was a Scottish cottage that showed me that I first need to change something about my listening room and speaker positioning before continuing to buy more expensive / better gear.
Just being blown away by latest tweek. Marigo Labs Aida Mat. It goes on top of CD and absorbs vibrations. I can’t believe the difference. I’m hearing things previously hidden. It’s like I’m hearing CDs for the first time! The mat is not cheap at £199 but so worth it! Without this mat, you won’t know what’s on your CDs. Note I’ve got 7 mods to CD playback before I even get to my DAC. My system is about £30k+ replacement value.
Great video. Never thought of tightening screws. I have 2 suggestions which I’ve tried. 1. Put pipe insulation round speaker cables. For 2 reasons - absorb and isolate from vibrations plus it keeps their distance from any power cables and/or interconnects. 2. Only done this on 2 plugs so far. Put a thin piece of rubber sheet in between plug and socket, obvs cutting holes for the 2 plugs to go through. Primarily it’s to absorb and reduce transmission of vibrations. Puritan Audio Ultimate power cables are floppy for this same reason. The rubber must be quite thin so plug is still making good contact in the socket.
The problem with tightening screws/nuts etc is that one person's loose is another's tight and vice versa - it is very easy to over tighten. Ambient temperature also plays a part as does the original designer's intentions!
Great video Phil Thanks so many brilliant tweek that others miss out, tightening up drivers and cleaning up plugs are brilliant tips that hifi folk used to do but the trend has stopped over time. Time for a hifi deep clean.
Thanks for this. I have just gone round and nipped up the screws holding in the drivers on my speakers (KEF iQ7’s). It was amazing how loose they were!
Cable dressing is a basic for all electronic applications to stop electromagnetic interference. If you can’t separate power from signal cables, then yes, cross at 90°, but that is not because of the contact area it’s because the electromagnetic fields can’t interact when they are not parallel.
I didn't have blutac on hand so I tried a couple of strips of anti-slip material usually laid under rugs. Works well, even with a cat jumping up on my speakers regularly (I know, I know - but have you ever tried to reason with a cat?) Overall this is full of fab advice - thank you!
Thightening the midrange driver screws is a good tip; percussion sounds a lot more three-dimensional afer doing this. Beware that some manufacturers are using Torx screws now. I recommend the Park Tool TWS-2 for dealing with these as it offers drivers for nine different sizes of screw all housed in a single moulded holder.
Removing the plug in and out of the socket several times always helps also none switched sockets, I know this as I’m an Electrician and when I do Earth loop test I can improve the readings
Regarding re-tightening screws - I also do the same with my headphones, both the screws holding the ear cups together and also the screws in the headband assembly. The results are much the same as with speakers.
Excellent video (again - personally I like the off the cuff low Fi production style). ‘Free’ tweaks are even better. On the subject of layout of cabling, I think the idea of cables crossing at right angles (if they have to at all) is more to do with physics principles of induction (left hand and right hand rules) than minimising the area where the cables meet. It’s also puzzled me why amplifier manufacturers don’t give more thought to the positioning of power sockets to make the best cable layout easier, especially on high end equipment or better still on monoblock amplifiers. I’ve looked at many pairs of monoblock amps and wondered why they couldn’t just make the power socket position layouts on each amp symmetrical to one another, so you can have a left and a right hand monoblock with the power cable positioned as far out the way as possible, but I’ve yet to find a manufacturer who does this. It occurred to me you could theoretically sit the monoblocks on their side, to keep the power socket near the floor for example and out the way, but given the weight of the transformers etc and then questions on how best to minimise vibrations (if the feet are no longer in use) just defeat the whole concept! Yes … I’ve clearly got too much time on my hands and am over thinking this 🤯
The monitor audio speakers usually have a single bolt into the back of the magnet don't they, so you tighten those from behind. At least the Bronze 200's and BX5's do that I have.
@@brucermarino It is actually advised to do so in the manual, as the speaker drivers on most Monitor Audio speakers are not bolted to the front baffle. They are designed that way to minimise resonance, apparently.
18:19 not free and not sure if it makes a difference but I tried this. I popped into a B&Q (UK hardware store) and think I paid £1.89 (or something ridiculous) for 2m of pipe insolation to help separate the cables that I couldn't prevent crossover
Good video, it pays to go over your setup every 6 months or so because as we all know cables left on their own will soon form a Gordian knot and nothing good can come of that..
A tweek that is not talked about much, if ever, is turn the air-conditioner on a couple of hours before listening. It helps if house is well insulated. What the heck does it do ? It cools the air and increases its density. Proof , have you wondered why it sounds better late at nite .
Your vids are good quality. More than good enough for me (a technical Buffon!) to understand everything that you’re telling me and to enjoy the vid. All done on your phone too? Well done Phil. I have a Go pro 10. Bought it as it was cheap at the time and to mount on my bike. Have you made a vid with a go pro? I’m a vinyl lover, with no turntable ha ha! I’m going to buy one, but I feel there’s so much choice that I’m procrastinating too much. I’m fancying a Rega Planar and considering the P6, but I’m told I should buy cheaper for a first record player. What do you think? Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me, I really do appreciate it.
Swing & a miss friend................. T-nuts require a hole drilled all the way through the material, which clearly isn't the case here. Tapping Inserts for wood were implemented here, as evidenced by the materials top side being unblemished. Reggae, Funk & Brass 🔈🔉🔊
@@TriAmpHiFi There are friendly ways to suggest a correction, and douchey ways to do it. With your snarky "swing and a miss" quip, you chose the second approach. I have found that just being pleasant and helpful will get you further in life.
Actually Blu-Tack has been shown to be an effective anti-vibration tweak, better than spikes or many isolation pads. I would recommend slightly more than you have recommended but agree that one can use too much.
@@hermanmunster3358 It's good for keeping your speakers attached to stands but it still couples them to the stand. If you need to de-couple then it should be done at the base of the stand. You only need to isolate once.
3:29 I agree and if anyone is curious as to why I do the same and support this approach of adjustment. It's the same way that drummers would use to tune their percussion instruments for even tension across the head or skin (depending or said instruments).
Upgraded from Musical Fidelity M2si to Rega Elex-r ex demo but what a difference it’s night and day better. Only thing now got thinking how would be with P3 compared to my P1 think itch will need scratched sooner or later 😊
@@ginomoujik8488 Hi It’s not a bad amplifier at times certainly made me smile and get foot tapping. However playing certain bass heavy music it tended to be very light so uncontrolled slightly distorted at times even at low volumes. You’d then play more complex music and would sound fantastic. I tried adding a subwoofer to it but to my ears sounded worse. So bit the bullet and bought a amplifier that was over a thousand pounds and because it has been replaced by the Mk4 I got at a superb discount and now very happy.
@@shaunprice3219 thanks! a taut bass is never to say no to. I had Elex in mind, but then I got Classic Audio Spartan 5 phono stage, so I wanted something that I can use all of.. dreaming of Aethos :) I demoed P1-3 with Rega Io and I would say that the jump from P1 to P2 is at least as much as from P2 with carbon to P3 with Elys. Do consider P2 if you can't stretch to P3.. although now it's a high time to get P3 50th anniversary..
I meant equipment in Stereophile Class A+ is not double the sound quality of equipment in Class C. More improvement that that can be had tweeking, if you figure out enough tweeks.
If you have 40 tweeks that average 5% improvement each; that equals triple the sound quality. Equipment in Stereophile magazines Class A+ is not even double the sound quality of the equipment in their highest class category. Which means more difference tweeking than spending tens of thousands of dollars (or more) on equipment. There will be an occasional performance category you won't equal though.
May I just ask you a quick question: To improve the sound, do I upgrade my Douk Audio U3 headphone amp or my Sennheiser HD 560S headphones. I have a Rotel A11tribute integr amp and a Rotell A11 tribute CD player. Thanks for your guidance
Please don't sand your fuse there cheap enough buy a next one 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Get some contact cleaner or similar same with all interconnects Deoxit wipes work 👌🏾👌🏾
must of read some old 25 y.o audio book #1 Nueter meter Torque screwdriver all screws need to be the same. So your Cuntry has a fuse in the power cable The cheap one you showed ? you have the electricity hitting that fuse Then the fuse at the ICU. that's crazy Free advice is real expensive
I don't know if you are being serious, but I find that fuses - like cables - are directional. The difference might not be as noticeable with a speaker system, but is very apparent with a headphone setup where there is less acoustic room interference affecting the sound.
@@johnholmes912 Common sense suggests this would be the case, but you know what they say about common-sense... I trust my ears first, that way I don't waste money buying improvements when paying attention to tweaks such as this maximise the potential of what I already own.
I use wire wool to clean plugs and contact cleaner for everything else. P.s the fuse will sound better one way round just try and see witch way round sounds the best!.
The screws are not backing off over time. They’re screwed into MDF, in most cases, and the tension causes the MDF to ‘give’ a little. By tightening them, you compensate for the settling of the screw. Hence, Loctite wouldn’t fix the issue.
Let’s all just appreciate Phil’s natural and funny delivery. It’s like having him round your house for help/ a chat. Seems a lovely chap.
Top advice! One word of warning, I’ve been tightening up drivers for years. The magnet from the tweeter of a pair of Acoustic Zen Adagio’s was so powerful, it literally pulled the Allen key from my fingers at least 2-3cm away - damaged the thin ribbon tweeter 😢 - had to remove and send both tweeters back to USA for repair - use extreme caution around tweeters
tightening the speaker bolts is just compressing the wood after the initial fitting. Removing all connectors and putting them back , undoing the mains plugs , put a new fuse in is the same as buying a expensive mains lead ... you are a top man for revealing the BS
Monitor Audio have their main drivers bolted right through to the rear of the cabinet I believe. So you tighten the bolt at the back.
Also move bass drivers on older speakers 180 degrees as gravity has been acting on the suspension all those years
Sounds like a good idea if wiring allows it.
I tried that but then I couldn't get the speaker grills back on and the bass and mids were all muddy.
They might be stuck in too if they are royds or regas
Wouldn't that be the weight of the magnet
I’ve got some 1988 Tannoy M20s there immaculate but the screws had definitely never been touched so I tightened them up I noticed a difference straight away 👍🏻
I laughed until I tried tightning my speaker, which are from the 80's, and wow they were loose! Thank you!
For those renting holiday properties from time to time I also recommend to bring your hifi system and try it out in different buildings and rooms. The variations in sound quality are astounding.
For me it was a Scottish cottage that showed me that I first need to change something about my listening room and speaker positioning before continuing to buy more expensive / better gear.
Sounds good but my speakers weight almost 89kg each.
@@SimonLloydGuitar Yeah well you'd take your travel speakers with you of course. I can't move my main speakers either; I'd have to get a van...
Just being blown away by latest tweek. Marigo Labs Aida Mat. It goes on top of CD and absorbs vibrations. I can’t believe the difference. I’m hearing things previously hidden. It’s like I’m hearing CDs for the first time! The mat is not cheap at £199 but so worth it! Without this mat, you won’t know what’s on your CDs.
Note I’ve got 7 mods to CD playback before I even get to my DAC. My system is about £30k+ replacement value.
Great video. Never thought of tightening screws. I have 2 suggestions which I’ve tried.
1. Put pipe insulation round speaker cables. For 2 reasons - absorb and isolate from vibrations plus it keeps their distance from any power cables and/or interconnects.
2. Only done this on 2 plugs so far. Put a thin piece of rubber sheet in between plug and socket, obvs cutting holes for the 2 plugs to go through. Primarily it’s to absorb and reduce transmission of vibrations. Puritan Audio Ultimate power cables are floppy for this same reason. The rubber must be quite thin so plug is still making good contact in the socket.
The problem with tightening screws/nuts etc is that one person's loose is another's tight and vice versa - it is very easy to over tighten. Ambient temperature also plays a part as does the original designer's intentions!
I'm tighten my speakers heavly and it's ok. Only problems are in plywoood.
Great video Phil Thanks so many brilliant tweek that others miss out, tightening up drivers and cleaning up plugs are brilliant tips that hifi folk used to do but the trend has stopped over time.
Time for a hifi deep clean.
Thanks for this. I have just gone round and nipped up the screws holding in the drivers on my speakers (KEF iQ7’s). It was amazing how loose they were!
Using a rubber o-ring as a washer on the woofer screws keeps them from loosening. B&W did this to their Matrix 800 speakers for that very reason.
Good idea, was thinking same. Could also help absorb vibrations.
I believe they also did this as a vibration reduction technique. Thanks for the great tips!
Absolute gems of helpful advice , without going into your deep pockets !
A glass fibre pencil is probably better for cleaning contacts, fuses etc. It's not as abrasive as sandpaper.
Tweaked the bolts on all my speakers (main and office). Couldn't believe how loose they were and how much the sound improved!
Bet the sound didn't change one iota. 😊
Quality hifi waffle.. enjoyed this thanks
Good advice! Keep up the great reviews 👍
Cable dressing is a basic for all electronic applications to stop electromagnetic interference. If you can’t separate power from signal cables, then yes, cross at 90°, but that is not because of the contact area it’s because the electromagnetic fields can’t interact when they are not parallel.
If you have a large TV on the front wall , move it higher by 25-30cm , you will be amazed with the improvement in imaging, depth and soundstage.
I didn't have blutac on hand so I tried a couple of strips of anti-slip material usually laid under rugs. Works well, even with a cat jumping up on my speakers regularly (I know, I know - but have you ever tried to reason with a cat?)
Overall this is full of fab advice - thank you!
Thightening the midrange driver screws is a good tip; percussion sounds a lot more three-dimensional afer doing this. Beware that some manufacturers are using Torx screws now. I recommend the Park Tool TWS-2 for dealing with these as it offers drivers for nine different sizes of screw all housed in a single moulded holder.
Best £2k upgrade I did was toe in the spealers and drawer the curtains.
Very good suggestions. 😁
Removing the plug in and out of the socket several times always helps also none switched sockets,
I know this as I’m an Electrician and when I do Earth loop test I can improve the readings
Regarding re-tightening screws - I also do the same with my headphones, both the screws holding the ear cups together and also the screws in the headband assembly. The results are much the same as with speakers.
Our narrow & low ceiling dining area has a remarkable positive effect on my budget hi Fi & speakers 🔉 🙂
Excellent video (again - personally I like the off the cuff low Fi production style). ‘Free’ tweaks are even better. On the subject of layout of cabling, I think the idea of cables crossing at right angles (if they have to at all) is more to do with physics principles of induction (left hand and right hand rules) than minimising the area where the cables meet. It’s also puzzled me why amplifier manufacturers don’t give more thought to the positioning of power sockets to make the best cable layout easier, especially on high end equipment or better still on monoblock amplifiers. I’ve looked at many pairs of monoblock amps and wondered why they couldn’t just make the power socket position layouts on each amp symmetrical to one another, so you can have a left and a right hand monoblock with the power cable positioned as far out the way as possible, but I’ve yet to find a manufacturer who does this. It occurred to me you could theoretically sit the monoblocks on their side, to keep the power socket near the floor for example and out the way, but given the weight of the transformers etc and then questions on how best to minimise vibrations (if the feet are no longer in use) just defeat the whole concept! Yes … I’ve clearly got too much time on my hands and am over thinking this 🤯
Tightened the drivers on my PMC’s. They have been running since new, two years, so had about a full turn on each bolt. Had a small win!
Did my 25-24 last week four years old all went up quarter of a turn
The monitor audio speakers usually have a single bolt into the back of the magnet don't they, so you tighten those from behind. At least the Bronze 200's and BX5's do that I have.
Yes. My BX6s have.
That bolt may be used for tuning and so tightening may not be the best option.
@@brucermarino It is actually advised to do so in the manual, as the speaker drivers on most Monitor Audio speakers are not bolted to the front baffle. They are designed that way to minimise resonance, apparently.
Excellent tips. Thanks so much for doing this. Deeply appreciated!
18:19 not free and not sure if it makes a difference but I tried this. I popped into a B&Q (UK hardware store) and think I paid £1.89 (or something ridiculous) for 2m of pipe insolation to help separate the cables that I couldn't prevent crossover
Many thanks food for thought!
Good video, it pays to go over your setup every 6 months or so because as we all know cables left on their own will soon form a Gordian knot and nothing good can come of that..
A tweek that is not talked about much, if ever, is turn the air-conditioner on a couple of hours before listening. It helps if house is well insulated.
What the heck does it do ?
It cools the air and increases its density. Proof , have you wondered why it sounds better late at nite .
Very good tips thank you
Your vids are good quality. More than good enough for me (a technical Buffon!) to understand everything that you’re telling me and to enjoy the vid. All done on your phone too? Well done Phil. I have a Go pro 10. Bought it as it was cheap at the time and to mount on my bike. Have you made a vid with a go pro? I’m a vinyl lover, with no turntable ha ha! I’m going to buy one, but I feel there’s so much choice that I’m procrastinating too much. I’m fancying a Rega Planar and considering the P6, but I’m told I should buy cheaper for a first record player. What do you think? Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me, I really do appreciate it.
The things on the bottom of the speaker that you screw the spikes into are called T nuts.
Swing & a miss friend.................
T-nuts require a hole drilled all the way through the material, which clearly isn't the case here.
Tapping Inserts for wood were implemented here, as evidenced by the materials top side being unblemished.
Reggae, Funk & Brass 🔈🔉🔊
@@TriAmpHiFi There are friendly ways to suggest a correction, and douchey ways to do it. With your snarky "swing and a miss" quip, you chose the second approach.
I have found that just being pleasant and helpful will get you further in life.
@@gotham61 You must be inconsolable at a baseball game.
And by the way.......... that's Strike 3, you're outta there!
I've got power cables down one rack back leg and signal cables down the other back leg.
What if you only have a stand with three legs, 2 up front and 1 at the rear?
Actually Blu-Tack has been shown to be an effective anti-vibration tweak, better than spikes or many isolation pads. I would recommend slightly more than you have recommended but agree that one can use too much.
I've used blutac in the past for standmounters. To stop them sliding off the stands more than anything. But it does also make a good isolator.
It couples the speakers not isolates them.
@@fuckinellitsraymo Well it has worked for me in the past, when using stand mounters.
@@hermanmunster3358 It's good for keeping your speakers attached to stands but it still couples them to the stand. If you need to de-couple then it should be done at the base of the stand. You only need to isolate once.
@@fuckinellitsraymo It does both. As I said, it was shown, which means actually tested.
3:29 I agree and if anyone is curious as to why I do the same and support this approach of adjustment. It's the same way that drummers would use to tune their percussion instruments for even tension across the head or skin (depending or said instruments).
All my plug are silver
Great input! Thank you
Upgraded from Musical Fidelity M2si to Rega Elex-r ex demo but what a difference it’s night and day better. Only thing now got thinking how would be with P3 compared to my P1 think itch will need scratched sooner or later 😊
I was considering M2si.. could you describe where it falls short, thanks!
@@ginomoujik8488 Hi
It’s not a bad amplifier at times certainly made me smile and get foot tapping.
However playing certain bass heavy music it tended to be very light so uncontrolled slightly distorted at times even at low volumes.
You’d then play more complex music and would sound fantastic.
I tried adding a subwoofer to it but to my ears sounded worse.
So bit the bullet and bought a amplifier that was over a thousand pounds and because it has been replaced by the Mk4 I got at a superb discount and now very happy.
@@shaunprice3219 thanks! a taut bass is never to say no to. I had Elex in mind, but then I got Classic Audio Spartan 5 phono stage, so I wanted something that I can use all of.. dreaming of Aethos :)
I demoed P1-3 with Rega Io and I would say that the jump from P1 to P2 is at least as much as from P2 with carbon to P3 with Elys. Do consider P2 if you can't stretch to P3.. although now it's a high time to get P3 50th anniversary..
@@ginomoujik8488Hi P1 has a Eyls 2 cartridge and does sound great. But really want the P3 and if could push the budget P6.
I meant equipment in Stereophile Class A+ is not double the sound quality of equipment in Class C. More improvement that that can be had tweeking, if you figure out enough tweeks.
Nice..but god..the waffle man..!
I tend to use a small amount of Brasso to clean contacts.
A "tweek" is an improvement that you can download from Twitter? ;)
Thanks Phil
Tweaks. You people invented the language ;)
If you have 40 tweeks that average 5% improvement each; that equals triple the sound quality. Equipment in Stereophile magazines Class A+ is not even double the sound quality of the equipment in their highest class category. Which means more difference tweeking than spending tens of thousands of dollars (or more) on equipment. There will be an occasional performance category you won't equal though.
I did the tightening tweak on my dynaudio special forty speakers and it ruined the wide soundstage so I slackened them off again..
May I just ask you a quick question: To improve the sound, do I upgrade my Douk Audio U3 headphone amp or my Sennheiser HD 560S headphones. I have a Rotel A11tribute integr amp and a Rotell A11 tribute CD player. Thanks for your guidance
He doesn’t read comments.
@@Coneman3 I didn’t know that. Thanks.
on a second thought, strange - as he doesn’t get much comments
He’s a lovely guy. He said he avoids reading/replying to comments as it can easily get hostile.
@@Coneman3 really sorry to hear that. Best wishes.
Please don't sand your fuse there cheap enough buy a next one 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Get some contact cleaner or similar same with all interconnects
Deoxit wipes work 👌🏾👌🏾
what grade of sand paper gives the best result 🙂
Audio grade sand paper of course. 😮
Acetone is best for cleaning contacts and if it's really bad use it with a green pop cleanser. Audio great fuses stupid lol
must of read some old 25 y.o audio book
#1 Nueter meter Torque screwdriver all screws need to be the same.
So your Cuntry has a fuse in the power cable
The cheap one you showed ? you have the electricity hitting that fuse
Then the fuse at the ICU. that's crazy
Free advice is real expensive
14:07 The middle pin is earth.. I don't think it would make any difference to clean it for the operational current.. :)
Ma bolt to the back.
Did you make note of the fuse direction?
I don't know if you are being serious, but I find that fuses - like cables - are directional. The difference might not be as noticeable with a speaker system, but is very apparent with a headphone setup where there is less acoustic room interference affecting the sound.
There's a thought 🤔
IT IS AC direction does not matter
@@johnholmes912 Common sense suggests this would be the case, but you know what they say about common-sense... I trust my ears first, that way I don't waste money buying improvements when paying attention to tweaks such as this maximise the potential of what I already own.
Brasso is much better. Sand paper is a it rough.
I use Brasso on the bare copper prongs of my power cables, then wipe them down with DeOxIt.
I use wire wool to clean plugs and contact cleaner for everything else. P.s the fuse will sound better one way round just try and see witch way round sounds the best!.
Which😉
@@carlosoliveira-rc2xt just very fine wire wool and kontact hifi cleaner it's £20 for a small bottle very very good 👍👍
It's AC stupid
Loctite thread compound on speaker screws anyone?
The screws are not backing off over time. They’re screwed into MDF, in most cases, and the tension causes the MDF to ‘give’ a little. By tightening them, you compensate for the settling of the screw. Hence, Loctite wouldn’t fix the issue.
Loctite is only for metal to metal.
@@paulcs2607 Yes, I was thinking when you have threaded inserts and bolts on the drivers
What happened to the best of videos ...and others you were going to do ?