I have rough cut lumber and thought of this and was happy to see a video confirming how I was going to make my posts. I will just lay the 16 footers on top of each other with glue and nail them in place and then cut the length.
I actually used this same method on my barn I built four years ago it's holding up so far. I had no way to haul the post at the time and like you I owned a sawmill .I don't regret the way I did it.
That is great to hear. I don't want it to end up like a pretzel! LOL. I think it will be fine, and I am not building it for looks. I thought about adding another layer of 2x6 boards to be 4 thick. What did you do?
@@TonysTractorAdventure I made them as I was building. I made 6×6 in the corners and 4×6 for every where else. The 6×6 were like you made and the 4×6 were two boards thick so they were only 3" thick.
Definitely stronger than a single 6x6. A single board is much more likely to warp over time where as three boards together will barely warp if at all. This method is typically preferred for pole barns so you can rest easy.
Ive been building for many years and have done this in lots of applications. It will work fine especially if you rotate the crown back and fourth to keep everything straight. Plan on building a 30'w x40'Lx 14'h pole garage this way for myself this summer. Oing it also for the top perimeter beams. Keep up the good work!!
I recommend that you stack your laminated post very straight just like you stack your lumber. Put your sticks between them and cover them up with black plastic or something similar to keep them out of the sun. We've built several barns out of green lumber. If it lays out in the sun without weight on it the ends or the middle moves towards the sun. Just keep it covered until you use it. I really helps with the warpage. Another thing that helps is to turn all your bows the same way when you putting them together that will help to keep your post from twisting. Thanks for the video. I really enjoyed it.
Thank you for the insight. I think we will do just that. We built a large base out of six 8"x8" base boards. We leveled them by digging part of them into the ground a bit. Very level resting place. They have excellent tree cover protecting them from the sun. I hope to get them in the ground soon.
Why would you keep them all bowing in the same direction, you're just reinforcing that tendency to bow. Get a straight middle piece, and have the outside pieces bow opposite each other to cancel each other out.
If you crisscross your bows it's taking strength from each board so you are actually losing strength. If all bows are turned the same the lumber isn't fighting itself and you will have full strength
We are in the process of repairing our basement due to a flood due to plumbing issues. We were going to do some rustic ideas with plywood and burning it. Now that our plywood - builder grade, not furniture grade plywood is 4 times it's original price, we have to figure some other way to finish this project. These very rustic sheets use to be about $13 per 8' sheet are now about $60 per sheet. We also have to put off redoing our floors for the same reason. We had planned to take the same plywood and cut in into boards, stabilize the knot holes, burn it and then put a translucent stain on it. Now we have to either do something else or wait. I was not surprised to find out who was making all the money. This should be considered price gouging, which I thought was illegal! Thank You for your post.
It has taken us a good long time to have these options, but I am not sure it is enough. With the price of lumber, it is scary to sell our house and build another.
As long as there was enough support under them. Decks are complicated. 20 people could be standing in a very small area. Weight loads must be understood.
Good job sir, as expected each video gets better and better, 100k subscribers before you know it, I’ve been hauling for two weeks mostly white oak, guess it’s time to get back to sawing, thanks for the inspiration.
Man, that means the world to me. Not the 100K part, but the fact you think we are getting better. We have been working hard to improve our videos. We are moving to a more open type video. Thank you again. 100K! I like the sound of that. 😇
I have heard that also about stronger. But why put the stubs at the base, and not up top. That's my trying to figure this out. I'm not sure. Thanks for sharing.
The treated lumber is needed in the ground. It is also the most expensive. I used a 5', 7', and 10' treated boards are at the bottom. I stagger them to make it stronger.
I am curious. Do you anticipate any problems using the green lumber, as in shrinkage? You can also put some "shrink wrap" around the base going into the ground to further protect it from deterrioration. Reference April Wilkinson's latest video on deck building.
Gene, I don't really expect a lot of warpage out of the post. Poplar is pretty stable and the boards kind of fight each other. But, what do I know. I am a rookie sawyer. I will let you know in a few months on video. I hope it doesn't turn looking like a pretzel 🥨!
I love my TYM tractors, and I have excellent dealership support. I have about 230 hours combined on my tractors with zero complaints. Just normal maintenance.
What a top video! Thanks for posting. Maybe coat the poplar end grain with bitumen before you put it in the ground? If you want to see some of the amazing things you can build with this method do an image search for Glulam.
Hey Tony, have you thought about getting 5 gallons of brush on green treat? That is my plan. While I wait for delivery I'm putting roofing tar on my small tool shed
Tony, can you give an update on that green lumber? I've also been looking at getting a mill for hobying, and using green lumber seems to be a lost art only the Amish still understand.
I like your solution. Far to many 6x6’s split anymore after a couple years of temperature changes. And then you add todays prices on top of it and they’re just not worth it in the long run. Also like the new style you added to the video. Job well done.
I thought about doing this a few years ago, but I didn't trust that the 2x6's were rated to be underground. I cut a 6x6 similar to your treated wood and bolted a milled 6x6 on it.
Buy a roll of 4 mil plastic. Wrap the bottoms with it making sure the seams are all above grade. Use packing tape to hold the plastic on. Do this multiple times. Follow it up with shrink wrap to account for any scraping that might occur as you are moving it. The plastic condoms made specifically for this cost $50 a pop. Save yourself some money! Also, before making your 6x6 plan for which pieces will be in the ground. Soak those ends in used motor oil for a couple days, the end grain will wick it up a couple inches into the end grain.
I don't know exactly how the calculate the strength of a board, but 20+ years ago my high school shop teacher told me that pine is structurally strong than poplar. Poplar is the softest of the common hard woods used and pine is the hardest of the common soft woods. With that info I would say your 6x6's would have been strong if you would have milled some pine for them, but most likely more than strong enough for what your building, unless you plan on hanging a car or something from them.
This totally depends on which type of Pine. White pine is considerably weak compared to Yellow Pine. There are 100+ year old houses around here built with Tulip Poplar.
Seems like we're running out of everything. 😐 From toilet paper to lumber to chicken (yes, I heard there was a chicken shortage) Excellent way to save, my friend!
I believe the glue should have been applied with more care. You need to have a unified bond between the boards. You can possibly have that with the way you haphazardly applied the glue.
Only thing is a nail is actually stronger than screws. Nails have more shear strength. Screws pull things together better but nails actually have more strength.
We are trying to build a pole barn. If it was not for the sawmill, I don't think it would could do it. Looking at building a house over the next 18 month. Scares the crap out of me.
@@TonysTractorAdventure some of the builders here are going with steel frames, it's cheaper, last forever,and ya get cheaper home insurance. Might be worth checking into.
Has anyone brought up the idea of starting a sawmill co-op where investors would provide the capital needed to produce the needed wood products and benefit from the cost savings? In a free market system, more suppliers would jump in to capitalize on the increased costs, and I just do not think it costs anywhere near what these products are selling for to produce, package, and ship them, regardless of the complexity of the supply chain. If it is so complex to transport these products, couldn’t we build more mills closer to where the products are needed? From what little I understand, we have plenty of trees, so we can replace the trees that were coming from British Columbia with ones from the southern US. With that as a given, I just do not think that making treated lumber is that complex of a process, coming from an engineering background. Feel free to school me if my assumptions are incorrect. It looks like speculators are causing a dire impact on your profession, so I thought I would present you with an opportunity to combat it. My grandfather actually did something similar to this where the customers provided the capital and got a discount on the backend, so I think it would be relatively easy to raise money since it would be much cheaper to short circuit the suppliers. It would be an easy sell, in my opinion.
Not to be a ninny but I think the issue with this is the high prices are a temporary issue. At some point supply and demand will equal out. The cost of starting a mill would be too high for the short term gain. Same thing has happened with the shale oil wells. Now it costs more to operate them than what they get in return.
I know his is old but BEST way to save on lumber is to NOT buy "treated" lumber for everything outdoors if its not going to get wet or be in direct weather just buy Pine
Depends upon shear, however there are screws that can be used in that although pretty pricey. For a lamination, I can see using decent screws to get it all locked together, but then nail gun it every 16" and it should hold fine wether as a beam or post.
@@TonysTractorAdventure I understand. I know why most RUclips video producers stay silent when it comes to politics. It’s just frustrating that hardworking citizen taxpayers like you and me playing by the rules continually get shafted. Anyway I love your videos, keep up the good work.
Seriously! Trumps trade war and tarrifs on Canadian lumber along with covid mill shutdowns created the inflated lumber prices. Just look when lumber started going up.
I have rough cut lumber and thought of this and was happy to see a video confirming how I was going to make my posts. I will just lay the 16 footers on top of each other with glue and nail them in place and then cut the length.
I actually used this same method on my barn I built four years ago it's holding up so far. I had no way to haul the post at the time and like you I owned a sawmill .I don't regret the way I did it.
That is great to hear. I don't want it to end up like a pretzel! LOL. I think it will be fine, and I am not building it for looks. I thought about adding another layer of 2x6 boards to be 4 thick. What did you do?
@@TonysTractorAdventure I made them as I was building. I made 6×6 in the corners and 4×6 for every where else. The 6×6 were like you made and the 4×6 were two boards thick so they were only 3" thick.
Thank you very much.
Definitely stronger than a single 6x6. A single board is much more likely to warp over time where as three boards together will barely warp if at all. This method is typically preferred for pole barns so you can rest easy.
That is comforting to hear. It makes sense to me and this why I went this way. Still, it is nice to hear from someone who did this. Tony
This is probably one of my favorite videos you’ve done Tony. Way to think outside the box
That means a lot to me. I think I have found my style. I ran out of storytelling skills, so I bought Doodly! LOL
Ive been building for many years and have done this in lots of applications.
It will work fine especially if you rotate the crown back and fourth to keep everything straight.
Plan on building a 30'w x40'Lx 14'h pole garage this way for myself this summer. Oing it also for the top perimeter beams.
Keep up the good work!!
Thank you. We are building a 30 x 40 also. I have 20ft post, but I have not settled on a height just yet. I metal trusses already to go.
Key point there is to rotate the crown.
This a very nice video👍 love the edits! Thanks for making this!👍 have a blessed week!
Hey brother. I appreciate it.
@@TonysTractorAdventure 🙂👍
I recommend that you stack your laminated post very straight just like you stack your lumber. Put your sticks between them and cover them up with black plastic or something similar to keep them out of the sun. We've built several barns out of green lumber. If it lays out in the sun without weight on it the ends or the middle moves towards the sun. Just keep it covered until you use it. I really helps with the warpage. Another thing that helps is to turn all your bows the same way when you putting them together that will help to keep your post from twisting. Thanks for the video. I really enjoyed it.
Thank you for the insight. I think we will do just that. We built a large base out of six 8"x8" base boards. We leveled them by digging part of them into the ground a bit. Very level resting place. They have excellent tree cover protecting them from the sun. I hope to get them in the ground soon.
@@TonysTractorAdventure That should work out great
Why would you keep them all bowing in the same direction, you're just reinforcing that tendency to bow. Get a straight middle piece, and have the outside pieces bow opposite each other to cancel each other out.
If you crisscross your bows it's taking strength from each board so you are actually losing strength. If all bows are turned the same the lumber isn't fighting itself and you will have full strength
We are in the process of repairing our basement due to a flood due to plumbing issues. We were going to do some rustic ideas with plywood and burning it. Now that our plywood - builder grade, not furniture grade plywood is 4 times it's original price, we have to figure some other way to finish this project. These very rustic sheets use to be about $13 per 8' sheet are now about $60 per sheet. We also have to put off redoing our floors for the same reason. We had planned to take the same plywood and cut in into boards, stabilize the knot holes, burn it and then put a translucent stain on it. Now we have to either do something else or wait. I was not surprised to find out who was making all the money. This should be considered price gouging, which I thought was illegal! Thank You for your post.
Check out your local sawmill. They may can help you with something better.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Thank you very much for that idea. We had not thought of that - brainwashed with box stores.
Tony you’re doing some great work. I agree using screws BTW, it just makes it stronger and last longer. I’m excited for you two! God bless.
God bless you too! Baby steps, but steps nonetheless.
Very nicely done. It is great when you have options to save yourself a little money.
It has taken us a good long time to have these options, but I am not sure it is enough. With the price of lumber, it is scary to sell our house and build another.
Would anyone be interested in starting a sawmill coop where people share in the investment and benefit via cost savings? These prices are too much.
Would you trust these for 2nd story deck?
As long as there was enough support under them. Decks are complicated. 20 people could be standing in a very small area. Weight loads must be understood.
Great thinking 🤔👌😉 I learned something new about lumber. Facinating 👏👍💥
Building with green lumber can be a challenge, but this process helps.
Keep it up! 👌👍💥
its been a few years since the video. how are the post holding up? would you do it again
Still holding up strong. I learned a lot.
Good job sir, as expected each video gets better and better, 100k subscribers before you know it, I’ve been hauling for two weeks mostly white oak, guess it’s time to get back to sawing, thanks for the inspiration.
Man, that means the world to me. Not the 100K part, but the fact you think we are getting better. We have been working hard to improve our videos. We are moving to a more open type video. Thank you again. 100K! I like the sound of that. 😇
I have heard that also about stronger. But why put the stubs at the base, and not up top. That's my trying to figure this out. I'm not sure. Thanks for sharing.
He said because the treated portion goes in the ground in the video
The treated lumber is needed in the ground. It is also the most expensive. I used a 5', 7', and 10' treated boards are at the bottom. I stagger them to make it stronger.
Great job !!! My self I would tite bond 2 or 3 instead of the construction adhesive !!! But that is me !!! Good job !!!!
That may have been a better choice. Time will tell. I appreciate the input. Tony
Great idea I’m having the same trouble I just can’t make myself pay the 6x6 price Like you I’m looking at all other options
Lots of people are using this technique with good results.
I like this method as well but doesn't the post come out as 5.5 x 4.5?
I am curious. Do you anticipate any problems using the green lumber, as in shrinkage? You can also put some "shrink wrap" around the base going into the ground to further protect it from deterrioration. Reference April Wilkinson's latest video on deck building.
Gene, I don't really expect a lot of warpage out of the post. Poplar is pretty stable and the boards kind of fight each other. But, what do I know. I am a rookie sawyer. I will let you know in a few months on video. I hope it doesn't turn looking like a pretzel 🥨!
Genius Tony, I think innovations was done by frugal people.
My wants outweighed my funds! A scary time to be thinking of buildings a new home. Thank you.
👍🧑🌾🇨🇦Hey Tony! Betty and I plan to buy a tractor soon. To clear old growth trees...any idea?
I love my TYM tractors, and I have excellent dealership support. I have about 230 hours combined on my tractors with zero complaints. Just normal maintenance.
What a top video! Thanks for posting. Maybe coat the poplar end grain with bitumen before you put it in the ground? If you want to see some of the amazing things you can build with this method do an image search for Glulam.
Hey, I really appreciate your comment. Looking forward to working the sawmill more.
Love the harbor freight tools
Hey Tony, have you thought about getting 5 gallons of brush on green treat? That is my plan. While I wait for delivery I'm putting roofing tar on my small tool shed
I have now! LOL. I think I will do that. It is on backorder, but likely worth the wait. Thank you.
@@TonysTractorAdventure yes sir, and thank you for your good content. Wish I would of found you sooner, but now I can just binge watch 😁
I binge-watch other channels. TV shows are so not entertaining nowadays. I like to see real people.
@@TonysTractorAdventure I couldn't agree more.
Tony, can you give an update on that green lumber? I've also been looking at getting a mill for hobying, and using green lumber seems to be a lost art only the Amish still understand.
We have been using green lumber to build barns for as far back as I can remember. Putting nails through green Oak is the only way to go.
I like your solution. Far to many 6x6’s split anymore after a couple years of temperature changes. And then you add todays prices on top of it and they’re just not worth it in the long run. Also like the new style you added to the video. Job well done.
I agree with your assessment! Thank you about the video also. We are learning and growing at RUclipsrs
Nice!!!
Thanks!
I thought about doing this a few years ago, but I didn't trust that the 2x6's were rated to be underground. I cut a 6x6 similar to your treated wood and bolted a milled 6x6 on it.
I am going to put copper coat on the ends. Waiting for concrete. Everything is taking forever.
Buy a roll of 4 mil plastic. Wrap the bottoms with it making sure the seams are all above grade. Use packing tape to hold the plastic on. Do this multiple times. Follow it up with shrink wrap to account for any scraping that might occur as you are moving it. The plastic condoms made specifically for this cost $50 a pop. Save yourself some money! Also, before making your 6x6 plan for which pieces will be in the ground. Soak those ends in used motor oil for a couple days, the end grain will wick it up a couple inches into the end grain.
Nice. That's a good way to get around the high cost and you can say u built the lumber to build you barn lol.
I don't know exactly how the calculate the strength of a board, but 20+ years ago my high school shop teacher told me that pine is structurally strong than poplar. Poplar is the softest of the common hard woods used and pine is the hardest of the common soft woods. With that info I would say your 6x6's would have been strong if you would have milled some pine for them, but most likely more than strong enough for what your building, unless you plan on hanging a car or something from them.
This totally depends on which type of Pine. White pine is considerably weak compared to Yellow Pine. There are 100+ year old houses around here built with Tulip Poplar.
Seems like we're running out of everything. 😐 From toilet paper to lumber to chicken (yes, I heard there was a chicken shortage) Excellent way to save, my friend!
It will save money and be stronger than the original. It is crazy how stores are running out of products. Thank you for your support. Tony
Awesome
The beam is still holding 😁👍
Is this sawmill worth a darn? My Review: ruclips.net/video/ijGg7GjANk0/видео.html
I believe the glue should have been applied with more care. You need to have a unified bond between the boards. You can possibly have that with the way you haphazardly applied the glue.
Thank you for your input. It is still holding well.
Only thing is a nail is actually stronger than screws. Nails have more shear strength. Screws pull things together better but nails actually have more strength.
In this case, you are wrong. I used high strength Screws. Much higher shear strength.
I'd use a full coat of PU adhesive rather than a few lines of Grab adhesive.
It is still holding together well
@Tony's Tractor Adventure Homestead can't argue with that, nice job 👍
You take that board and use as an engineered board to put in house build!
I could build a beam for a house if I needed to.
It’s because of the conglomerates they have cooked up this price gouging and should be investigated as something stinks here
I just read online that this lumber prices bull@#$& is adding 24,000 bucks to the price of an average home. Keep sawing.
We are trying to build a pole barn. If it was not for the sawmill, I don't think it would could do it. Looking at building a house over the next 18 month. Scares the crap out of me.
@@TonysTractorAdventure some of the builders here are going with steel frames, it's cheaper, last forever,and ya get cheaper home insurance. Might be worth checking into.
I appreciate that. Tony
Has anyone brought up the idea of starting a sawmill co-op where investors would provide the capital needed to produce the needed wood products and benefit from the cost savings? In a free market system, more suppliers would jump in to capitalize on the increased costs, and I just do not think it costs anywhere near what these products are selling for to produce, package, and ship them, regardless of the complexity of the supply chain. If it is so complex to transport these products, couldn’t we build more mills closer to where the products are needed?
From what little I understand, we have plenty of trees, so we can replace the trees that were coming from British Columbia with ones from the southern US. With that as a given, I just do not think that making treated lumber is that complex of a process, coming from an engineering background. Feel free to school me if my assumptions are incorrect. It looks like speculators are causing a dire impact on your profession, so I thought I would present you with an opportunity to combat it.
My grandfather actually did something similar to this where the customers provided the capital and got a discount on the backend, so I think it would be relatively easy to raise money since it would be much cheaper to short circuit the suppliers. It would be an easy sell, in my opinion.
I love this comment. You have to come back tomorrow and watch a video that I am releasing about wood prices. Who is getting Rich.
Not to be a ninny but I think the issue with this is the high prices are a temporary issue. At some point supply and demand will equal out. The cost of starting a mill would be too high for the short term gain. Same thing has happened with the shale oil wells. Now it costs more to operate them than what they get in return.
I know his is old but BEST way to save on lumber is to NOT buy "treated" lumber for everything outdoors if its not going to get wet or be in direct weather just buy Pine
Technically screws r not stronger than nails, they hold better, but they break easier.
I assume u know that and just spoke incorrectly
It depends on the type of screw a person uses. Look at the tensile strength of quality deck screws vs. a nail. The screw is much stronger.
Depends upon shear, however there are screws that can be used in that although pretty pricey. For a lamination, I can see using decent screws to get it all locked together, but then nail gun it every 16" and it should hold fine wether as a beam or post.
Idk.. if your doing your on project seems fine. For others.. the extra time makes the savings not really worth it imo.
Thank you for your opinion.
So who is getting rich ?
docking the pay..... i bet you paid for that one! haha!!!
I got a good punch in the shoulder for that one. LOL. She has a great sense of humor, and I am blessed for that.
@@TonysTractorAdventure haha, that is good. gotta roll with the punches and punchlines
Thank the democrats and joe Biden. Are you tired of it yet?
I keep my political views off the channel. I work and own a small business, so that should give you insight to my views. 😁
@@TonysTractorAdventure I understand. I know why most RUclips video producers stay silent when it comes to politics. It’s just frustrating that hardworking citizen taxpayers like you and me playing by the rules continually get shafted. Anyway I love your videos, keep up the good work.
Brother, we understand each other. God Bless.
Seriously! Trumps trade war and tarrifs on Canadian lumber along with covid mill shutdowns created the inflated lumber prices. Just look when lumber started going up.
@@davidjanisko2198 next you’ll be blaming trump for the food shortages, high fuel prices and Joe’s dementia