Hey bounder97, I think I wrote a comment on another Vista video while back. I wanted to say, that as a professional alarm technician, the workmanship in your install is impeccable. Mostly due to time constraints, but most alarm technicians are most likely to throw spaghetti in a panel box and forget about it; "it's not like the customers gonna look at it". Your videos did wonders for helping me understand the burglar alarm when I first start doing them a while back. It's a double-edged sword. Ideally, you'd want zone labels to help the next technician figure out what the problem is when a trouble does come up. Ideally though, we wouldn't want to label the zones because a savvy thief could sabotage the panel wiring if they did manage to get to it. I'm thinking your house has a lot more going on than three doors and a motion so it probably does make sense to label. Either way thank you for teaching us and thanks for sharing your home improvement knowledge too.
Thank you I couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong with my motion sensors. I just figured they were proximity sensors and kept tripping the alarm on stay mode.
I have been locked out of programming mode before and that is no fun. I had a Visa 10P system that was locked out. They never should have invented that mode but they did. Once it is locked out, the circuit card is essentially garbage at that point. Sad. It's just sad.
There is a way to recover from lock out mode. (at least with a vista 20P). I covered the prococess in part 18 of my Vista 20P series. It can be found at ruclips.net/video/S9c9U-l3BaE/видео.html
@@bounder97 I did that. It turned out that the *88 field had been set to 2. You do that and you will lock it out permanently. Whoever monitored it before actually locked out the code and made sure that the # and * don't work. But it is a mute point. Vista 10p cannot operate a touchscreen keypad and you can't expand it either. So, why use a vista 10p when a vista 20p is a thousand times better? Pretty much, I only use the locked out vista 10p card as a power supply. Oh. And in response to this video. The end of line resistor is supervision of the circuit. You said that a short on the resistor causes a trouble and open causes an alarm. You're on the right track however, on a burglary system, an open or a fault causes an alarm. My motion detectors are wired in a way that the normal open contacts are used and the resistor is wired in parallel with the motion. Glass breaks are done that way too. However, you are right. A short on a fire zone causes an alarm and an open causes a trouble. Your door and window contacts wire like pull stations. Your motions and glass breaks and photo beams wire up like smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors. The eol resistor is at the last sensor of the run.
Hello. I built the junction box. I took an old alarm panel metal case and mounted some plywood inside of it. I covered the plywood with vinyl tape so I could write on it. Then mounted terminal blocks onto the plywood. The terminal blocks, terminal lugs and wire were purchased from an internet company called MCM electronics.
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Great video, thanks
My pleasure!
Every one of these videos is world-class. You're a thorough instructor.
Hey bounder97, I think I wrote a comment on another Vista video while back. I wanted to say, that as a professional alarm technician, the workmanship in your install is impeccable. Mostly due to time constraints, but most alarm technicians are most likely to throw spaghetti in a panel box and forget about it; "it's not like the customers gonna look at it". Your videos did wonders for helping me understand the burglar alarm when I first start doing them a while back.
It's a double-edged sword. Ideally, you'd want zone labels to help the next technician figure out what the problem is when a trouble does come up. Ideally though, we wouldn't want to label the zones because a savvy thief could sabotage the panel wiring if they did manage to get to it. I'm thinking your house has a lot more going on than three doors and a motion so it probably does make sense to label. Either way thank you for teaching us and thanks for sharing your home improvement knowledge too.
Thank you I couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong with my motion sensors. I just figured they were proximity sensors and kept tripping the alarm on stay mode.
Is a resistor required for it?
Thank you for this video.
My pleasure!
I have been locked out of programming mode before and that is no fun. I had a Visa 10P system that was locked out. They never should have invented that mode but they did. Once it is locked out, the circuit card is essentially garbage at that point. Sad. It's just sad.
There is a way to recover from lock out mode. (at least with a vista 20P). I covered the prococess in part 18 of my Vista 20P series. It can be found at ruclips.net/video/S9c9U-l3BaE/видео.html
@@bounder97 I did that. It turned out that the *88 field had been set to 2. You do that and you will lock it out permanently. Whoever monitored it before actually locked out the code and made sure that the # and * don't work. But it is a mute point. Vista 10p cannot operate a touchscreen keypad and you can't expand it either. So, why use a vista 10p when a vista 20p is a thousand times better? Pretty much, I only use the locked out vista 10p card as a power supply.
Oh. And in response to this video. The end of line resistor is supervision of the circuit. You said that a short on the resistor causes a trouble and open causes an alarm. You're on the right track however, on a burglary system, an open or a fault causes an alarm. My motion detectors are wired in a way that the normal open contacts are used and the resistor is wired in parallel with the motion. Glass breaks are done that way too. However, you are right. A short on a fire zone causes an alarm and an open causes a trouble. Your door and window contacts wire like pull stations. Your motions and glass breaks and photo beams wire up like smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors. The eol resistor is at the last sensor of the run.
Did you build or buy the junction box? I'm not able to find one.
Hello. I built the junction box.
I took an old alarm panel metal case and mounted some plywood inside of it.
I covered the plywood with vinyl tape so I could write on it.
Then mounted terminal blocks onto the plywood.
The terminal blocks, terminal lugs and wire were purchased from an internet company called MCM electronics.
@@bounder97 Nice!
That is a very informative video, thanks !!!