I was glued to my phone while watching this. Im glad the hobby has bonded us all together. Im going to stick this comment here to support the algorithm.
Great video Two things: For the wood, let the CA soak in and harden. Apply again and let set. That seals the wood and gives a surface that will glue. For filler, pack the seam or void with baking soda and apply CA. It will harden as fast as with accelerator. This yeilds a hard surface that's easy to file or sand. Thinner layers better. Repeat as needed to fill. Also the R/C aircraft folks use microscopic glass spheres and CA as filler. Very strong and light.
A couple of notes. 1) Instead of using baby powder to make SG filler, I started using nail acrylic powder ruclips.net/video/a4URAxj6oz0/видео.html . The acetone in the SG melts the powder and makes it like liquid plastic. Then you can fill and sand as normal, and you can scribe it as well since it dries and works just like the kit plastic. The powder not only fills gaps, but takes away the brittleness of the SG, so the mixture also can be used as glue. Another added benefit, it that you can glue styrene parts to it using Tamiya extra thin cement. 2) To preserve the glue, you can store the bottle in canning jars that have some Damp-Rid in the bottom. I've had SG stay like new for up to 2 years. I actually can use up entire bottles of SG now.
Yet another fine example, and for many, a needed reminder of the basics. Sure wish I knew these lessons as a 12 yr old when I really got into this hobby. However I'm glad I learned then and am still learning today in my 40s. Stick to it!
Wish I had watched this video before I started modeling. Last night I ruined what was, up to that point, a perfect modeling job. I rushed parts together that didn't mate correctly or used too much glue in a small spot and got tiny streams of glue (bsI glue which is a great glue) all over the model. Some great tips in this video with which I'm ready to use going forward. Rear view mirrors in my models have always been tough to keep in place. Toothpicks and accelerator should work great. Thanks, Jon, for the tips and the humor.
Been there done that! I'm sorry that happened, but I'm glad the video was helpful. Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
I like this lesson about CA glue, the depth is great. Cover various aspects of this glue. And I can confirm the Murphy's law. Need efforts to stick it to it 😏 Thanks for explaining this stuff!
Fun and useful as always Jon! Couple of things in my experience that are just reluctant to be bonded with CA: anything polyethylene, call it a plastic bag, small tubes from lollypops or cotton swabs, yes the Tamiya and Bandai poly caps, plastic containers, etc. It's a very abundant plastic source but CA is not going to glue it properly. Polyetylene is better melted together because it repels any sort of glue and most paints. The other one is aluminum sheet or foil, very weak shear strength bonds. CA may work if you sand the surface a little bit making it coarse and giving CA some teeth to hold on to. Oh! And as for filler, I've used baking soda besides of talcum powder and hidrocal, although you have to be careful with it, because it works as an accelerator so it sets pretty quickly and it tends to expand if you use too much of it. Great video as always, yours is becoming one of my favorite modeling chanels, so thanks again and cheers!
Having lost no end of really small pieces as they pinged! off god knows where, I'm very relieved to hear you use the word 'tweezer-paulted'!! Logically perhaps it shouldn't be a reassuring to hear other people have the same problem but without a solution, but it certainly is!
LOL - thanks! I can't recall where I first heard that, as I've used the term for years. But it definitely describes what happens! PING! And there it goes! 😁 Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Stick to it! As a scratch-builder and trash-brasher, I would add that for using CA on other types of plastic (especially HDPE), annealing (in addition to scuffing or roughing) makes a huge difference in the adhesion. There is a good video from Crafman on this and Andy Mecha even did a test of various techniques.
Thanks for the tips. I love SG. I have different kinds and a black one. I use sewing needles to apply SG. I use the eye side. I cut off the blunt side and glue it to a drilled pencil with SG. I use baking soda as a accelerator but in other projects not plastic model related. SG dries faster in very small applications. If I apply too much, it takes very long to dry. I gave you a like 😊
Youe timing for this video, to me, is just perfect. I have a big model that I accidentally sanded the rivet. You help me save that detail. Im definitely trying this later today when I work on my project
Excellent explanations, Jon. The only thing I would have liked in addition would be a few more still or video shots with your voice-over narration. The video clips at 11:37-12:23, 13:35, 14:55, 15:55, and 17:15 were VERY helpful (the old adage of a picture is worth a thousand words). It makes video editing a bit more of a pain, but resolves a lot of questions viewers might have. Your Shear Strength gestures were great and really helped make the point. I was also totally reinforced by your use of a 4-inch glazed square of ceramic tile, because when I got back into model-making 5 years ago I did exactly the same thing. Not just for CA, but also hot glue (for a limited number of applications), soldering for LED lighting so I don't melt my cutting mat, white (aka "Elmer's Glue"), and many other uses requiring a quick wipe or scrape for a clean surface next time. PS - GREAT OUTTAKES!
Thanks so much for your kind words and helpful feedback! I am grateful! And thank you so much for watching and commenting. That really does help me out! Happy day to you. 😊
Stick to it! Another great video. Love your instructional videos. One thing I would like to add and maybe sometime it can be added to another video. I have used CA glue for years. And yes Murphy's Law always pops up t wrong times. One thing I found was CA is not really flexible and parts that flex can pop/break the join. Also I have found some CA glues will not like to bond to themselves after a join fails. So check for this when choosing a CA.
@9:32 you mention the welding action of styrene cements. That's why I don't use CA glue to assemble styrene to styrene. I want that weld join between the parts. I use CA to glue unlike materials together, such as PE, resin, and metal to styrene; and for non-styrene materials, like resin to other resin or metal, and metal to metal. Pinning is definitely a good idea, when you large pieces with large flat join surfaces. But for even stronger and more durable joins, I'll use 2-part epoxies.
You can also use ordinary baking powder. Add some thin CA, and after the toxic smoke clears, it becomes hard as concrete. Good for R/C but probably not for models. I recently discovered that using a Glue Looper can pinpoint where thin ca goes. They work very well. Good blooper reel at the end... Stick to it. 👍
Sucks with my resin models…. Nothing more frustratingly frustratingly! Lol maybe it’s just my particular 3-D printing resin but I’m relegated to UV Resin to attach/fix parts and it’s just a mess.Great video! P.S. YES!! YES!!! THE INVERSE/MURPHYS LAW OF CA GLUE!! GENIUS!! YES!! EXACTLY!! PLEASE MAKE IT STOP!! Lolol
Stick to it! ;) Try adding baby powder after putting CA into the area to fill, it acts like accelerator. I’ll try mixing it beforehand like you advise next time 👍🏻
" Stick to it ", besides gluing my fingers together, I can't count the number of times I've glued things to the bench, then I discovered parchment paper ( my wife bakes alot)- lay that stuff down and voila...
I'm so glad you are enjoying it! Just carefully scrape away the paint where the parts join using the back of your hobby knife. That way you can be sure that standard model glues make a good join. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Got a good idiot story for you about SG. A long time buddy and I are working on the battleship NJ 1/350. I’m cutting & bending he was gluing the PE ladders on the face of the gun turret well he put way to much on so it clogged up between the steps so he clean it up best he could just set it to the side to dry. Well next day I come home from work I see him with a I F-up look on his face, you know how you burn the needle to clean the superglue off well he tried it to do it to the ladder 🤦♂️ he said it gone up like black gun power you see in a old westerns sparks flying the hole bit 😂 now the face of the gun turret is melted looking like candlewax so Revell ended up sending us a new one.
Super glue is one of those things that I tell folks "there is no 'oops!'" It does make for a funny story - thanks for sharing that. (And good on Revell for sending a new one!) Thanks for watching and commenting!
Jon, you left out how to get out of those....sticky, situations, (cue the muted comedy cornet-wah, wah, wah, wahhhhhhhhh) when you've glued yourself with CA glue. Acetone will dissolve CA glue. Many brands of nail polish remover have acetone as their active ingredient, and many modelers keep a bottle on hand. Me? I'm a guy, so I bought a can of acetone at the hardware store. Erh, erh, erh, erh! The only problem is opening the safety lock cap when I've got one hand glued shut. But I've gotten good at holding the can between my knees and working a slotted screwdriver with the other. I once held a 54mm figure in my right hand. The figure was cupped in my fingers, with my thumb holding it steady, with a piece to be attached. I opened the bottle, upended it to flow the glue into the join, then felt that rapid evaporation on the skin of my fingers, and realized immediately that it was a Beaker Moment. Like I said, I'm good at holding the can between my knees and popping the cap with a screwdriver in my free hand. I've also learned to use my third-hand stand for holding pieces when I need to glue them...
Stick to it! I like buildihg sci-fi models with electronics and lighting effects. CA works great on the inside to tack down the wiring and route it neatly so it doesn't flop around and create unwanted shadows.
" Stick to it ".... Humm, baby power in CA? I have always used baking soda and CA to fill those stubborn cracks (Not Butt Cracks) and then sane it down with finger nail file and sand paper or a hand file. Old school vs new school I guess... Lol That is about the only thing I use CA for but hay, ya never know... LLAP 🖖
I still wouldn't get it anywhere near transparent parts . They will fog > I one spoiled a POCHER kit of a Ferarri Testarossa which cost almost £300 , if you have touched the transparency ,your finger will leave "prints" onto which the CA will adhere ( Yes like Police fingerprints !!) oh and yes , it would rather stick to you than anything else !! careful with those small parts .
It can definitely do that! One simple way I found around it was to give the canopy a "dip" in Future/Pledge. I could then attach it with just a few dots of CA - this worked especially well on vacform canopies. But it does require care to do! Thanks for watching and commenting!
You put efforts to choosing your topics before switch the camera ON and sit down on the chair. You pick topics differently, interestingly and educationally
Thanks so much for your kind words! I am grateful! Many times the topics come from questions I get, or questions I see raised in forums, etc. And i do try to prepare. I learned through the military and business that when giving presentations, anticipate the questions and be prepared to answer them. So I try to be thorough. but my over-arching goals ae to give a sense of the fun in the hobby, and to always be helpful. Thank you so much for watching and commenting! I am quite encouraged by your kindness. Happy day to you!
I was glued to my phone while watching this. Im glad the hobby has bonded us all together. Im going to stick this comment here to support the algorithm.
And here I am stuck replying! 🤣
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video
Two things:
For the wood, let the CA soak in and harden. Apply again and let set. That seals the wood and gives a surface that will glue.
For filler, pack the seam or void with baking soda and apply CA. It will harden as fast as with accelerator. This yeilds a hard surface that's easy to file or sand. Thinner layers better. Repeat as needed to fill.
Also the R/C aircraft folks use microscopic glass spheres and CA as filler. Very strong and light.
Thanks for the info, and thanks for watching and commenting!
The best finger adhesive currently on the market.
Absolutely! 🤣
Thanks for watching and commenting!
A couple of notes. 1) Instead of using baby powder to make SG filler, I started using nail acrylic powder ruclips.net/video/a4URAxj6oz0/видео.html . The acetone in the SG melts the powder and makes it like liquid plastic. Then you can fill and sand as normal, and you can scribe it as well since it dries and works just like the kit plastic. The powder not only fills gaps, but takes away the brittleness of the SG, so the mixture also can be used as glue. Another added benefit, it that you can glue styrene parts to it using Tamiya extra thin cement. 2) To preserve the glue, you can store the bottle in canning jars that have some Damp-Rid in the bottom. I've had SG stay like new for up to 2 years. I actually can use up entire bottles of SG now.
Excellent information - thank you!
And thanks for watching and commenting!
I always place my unopened SG in the fridge. It extends its life shelf
Stick to it
Yet another fine example, and for many, a needed reminder of the basics. Sure wish I knew these lessons as a 12 yr old when I really got into this hobby. However I'm glad I learned then and am still learning today in my 40s. Stick to it!
Thanks so much my friend, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Wish I had watched this video before I started modeling. Last night I ruined what was, up to that point, a perfect modeling job. I rushed parts together that didn't mate correctly or used too much glue in a small spot and got tiny streams of glue (bsI glue which is a great glue) all over the model. Some great tips in this video with which I'm ready to use going forward. Rear view mirrors in my models have always been tough to keep in place. Toothpicks and accelerator should work great. Thanks, Jon, for the tips and the humor.
Been there done that! I'm sorry that happened, but I'm glad the video was helpful. Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
I like this lesson about CA glue, the depth is great. Cover various aspects of this glue.
And I can confirm the Murphy's law. Need efforts to stick it to it 😏
Thanks for explaining this stuff!
Glad it was helpful! I am grateful for your kind words!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Fun and useful as always Jon! Couple of things in my experience that are just reluctant to be bonded with CA: anything polyethylene, call it a plastic bag, small tubes from lollypops or cotton swabs, yes the Tamiya and Bandai poly caps, plastic containers, etc. It's a very abundant plastic source but CA is not going to glue it properly. Polyetylene is better melted together because it repels any sort of glue and most paints. The other one is aluminum sheet or foil, very weak shear strength bonds. CA may work if you sand the surface a little bit making it coarse and giving CA some teeth to hold on to. Oh! And as for filler, I've used baking soda besides of talcum powder and hidrocal, although you have to be careful with it, because it works as an accelerator so it sets pretty quickly and it tends to expand if you use too much of it. Great video as always, yours is becoming one of my favorite modeling chanels, so thanks again and cheers!
Good information! And thank you for your kind words, and for watching and commenting. I am grateful!
That’s a lot of knowledge to stick to my head! 🤯 Thank you for the video!
You bet! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Having lost no end of really small pieces as they pinged! off god knows where, I'm very relieved to hear you use the word 'tweezer-paulted'!! Logically perhaps it shouldn't be a reassuring to hear other people have the same problem but without a solution, but it certainly is!
LOL - thanks! I can't recall where I first heard that, as I've used the term for years. But it definitely describes what happens! PING! And there it goes! 😁
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Bardzo lubię cię słuchać: świetny kontetnt, emanująca z twarzy pozytywna energia, umiarkowanie w sądach. Dawaj następne.
Thanks so much for your kind words, and thank you for watching and commenting!
Dziękuję bardzo! (From Google Translate. :) )
Great video Jon. Enjoyed the blooper reel extra. “Stick to it” brother. Good day to ya.
Glad you enjoyed it! And thanks for noting the bloopers. 😊 I wondered if anyone would see those.
Happy day to you! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Stick to it!
As a scratch-builder and trash-brasher, I would add that for using CA on other types of plastic (especially HDPE), annealing (in addition to scuffing or roughing) makes a huge difference in the adhesion. There is a good video from Crafman on this and Andy Mecha even did a test of various techniques.
Thanks for the info! And thanks for watching and commenting!
I love videos like these Jon, where one learns what you use and how you use it. Stick to it!
I see what you did there... 😊
Thanks so much for George! I am grateful. And thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the tips. I love SG. I have different kinds and a black one. I use sewing needles to apply SG. I use the eye side. I cut off the blunt side and glue it to a drilled pencil with SG. I use baking soda as a accelerator but in other projects not plastic model related. SG dries faster in very small applications. If I apply too much, it takes very long to dry. I gave you a like 😊
You're welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Youe timing for this video, to me, is just perfect. I have a big model that I accidentally sanded the rivet. You help me save that detail. Im definitely trying this later today when I work on my project
Glad I could help! And thanks so much for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius i just finished trying it and it works. I just need to refine the size of the dot i am placing. Thanks again!
@@HobbyWorksbyRani Awesome!
I've stuck to it. Thanks Jon.
Thanks so much my friend! :D
Thanks for watching and commenting!
The kitchen tile trick sounds useful! I'll have to give that a try!
I highly recommend it! I've used the same tile for 15+ years and it works like a charm.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Very helpful video Jon! Thanks!
I'm glad it was helpful! Thank you so much for watching and commenting!
Good source of information Jon, Stick to it!
I'm glad you liked it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Really useful teaching, thank you. And what a pleasure for no repeating.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
very helpful to a new user
Glad to hear that - thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Hey Jon I use pigments with CA ,it helps see where to deposite the glue.
and it sands the same.
Yep, that's a great technique! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Excellent explanations, Jon. The only thing I would have liked in addition would be a few more still or video shots with your voice-over narration. The video clips at 11:37-12:23, 13:35, 14:55, 15:55, and 17:15 were VERY helpful (the old adage of a picture is worth a thousand words). It makes video editing a bit more of a pain, but resolves a lot of questions viewers might have. Your Shear Strength gestures were great and really helped make the point. I was also totally reinforced by your use of a 4-inch glazed square of ceramic tile, because when I got back into model-making 5 years ago I did exactly the same thing. Not just for CA, but also hot glue (for a limited number of applications), soldering for LED lighting so I don't melt my cutting mat, white (aka "Elmer's Glue"), and many other uses requiring a quick wipe or scrape for a clean surface next time. PS - GREAT OUTTAKES!
Thanks so much for your kind words and helpful feedback! I am grateful!
And thank you so much for watching and commenting. That really does help me out! Happy day to you. 😊
Good video as always. Thanks.
Thanks - I'm glad you liked it! And thanks for watching and commenting too!
thanks for this Jon, knowledge is always a good thing, stick to it
Great advice! 😁
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I stuck to it. Another good video. 👌
Awesome! Thank you! And thanks for watching and commenting!
Stick to it! Another great video. Love your instructional videos. One thing I would like to add and maybe sometime it can be added to another video. I have used CA glue for years. And yes Murphy's Law always pops up t wrong times. One thing I found was CA is not really flexible and parts that flex can pop/break the join. Also I have found some CA glues will not like to bond to themselves after a join fails. So check for this when choosing a CA.
Yep! That's what I'd noted about the aircraft fuselage that split in the video. It can definitely happen!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you ..very helpful!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@9:32 you mention the welding action of styrene cements. That's why I don't use CA glue to assemble styrene to styrene. I want that weld join between the parts. I use CA to glue unlike materials together, such as PE, resin, and metal to styrene; and for non-styrene materials, like resin to other resin or metal, and metal to metal.
Pinning is definitely a good idea, when you large pieces with large flat join surfaces. But for even stronger and more durable joins, I'll use 2-part epoxies.
If you don't use kicker, the SG dries slower and the acetone in it can act on the plastic which provides some welding action.
Stick to it. Thanks, very well presented
Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting! 😊
Thanks brother for the video!
Great info and humorous too. Stick to it!
I'm glad you liked it brother! It was fun to do. :D
Thanks for watching and commenting!
You can also use ordinary baking powder. Add some thin CA, and after the toxic smoke clears, it becomes hard as concrete. Good for R/C but probably not for models. I recently discovered that using a Glue Looper can pinpoint where thin ca goes. They work very well.
Good blooper reel at the end... Stick to it. 👍
Good information! And thanks for the kind words, and for watching and commenting!
Sucks with my resin models…. Nothing more frustratingly frustratingly! Lol maybe it’s just my particular 3-D printing resin but I’m relegated to UV Resin to attach/fix parts and it’s just a mess.Great video!
P.S. YES!! YES!!! THE INVERSE/MURPHYS LAW OF CA GLUE!! GENIUS!! YES!! EXACTLY!! PLEASE MAKE IT STOP!! Lolol
Thanks so much! I am glad you enjoyed it. And thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video Jon! Good information here! Stick to it!
You got it! :D
And thanks so much for the kind words, and for watching and commenting!
Stick to it! Thanks, this was very helpful.
Glad it helped! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
"Tell him what he's won, Jon Pardo!"
Stick to it! ;)
Try adding baby powder after putting CA into the area to fill, it acts like accelerator. I’ll try mixing it beforehand like you advise next time 👍🏻
I've tried it both ways. I found adding it before to be a bit easier for me - but either way gets the job done. Thanks for watching and commenting!
" Stick to it ", besides gluing my fingers together, I can't count the number of times I've glued things to the bench, then I discovered parchment paper ( my wife bakes alot)- lay that stuff down and voila...
Yeah! That stuff works great!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Black CA glue is the best by far. It has a rubber like element that makes it less brittle. Alot less brittle. It's the only CA glue I ever use.
Yeah, it's great stuff. I really like it myself!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Stick to it!
I have not done a lot with the hobby store CA glue. I have used the stuff from Big box retailers a lot for photo-etch.
I think they all come from the same factory! 🤣
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Help.... I'm 59 wanting to build car models so what do I use to glue painted parts? Just recently found your channel enjoying it very much.
I'm so glad you are enjoying it!
Just carefully scrape away the paint where the parts join using the back of your hobby knife. That way you can be sure that standard model glues make a good join. Hope that helps!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Got a good idiot story for you about SG. A long time buddy and I are working on the battleship NJ 1/350. I’m cutting & bending he was gluing the PE ladders on the face of the gun turret well he put way to much on so it clogged up between the steps so he clean it up best he could just set it to the side to dry. Well next day I come home from work I see him with a I F-up look on his face, you know how you burn the needle to clean the superglue off well he tried it to do it to the ladder 🤦♂️ he said it gone up like black gun power you see in a old westerns sparks flying the hole bit 😂 now the face of the gun turret is melted looking like candlewax so Revell ended up sending us a new one.
Super glue is one of those things that I tell folks "there is no 'oops!'" It does make for a funny story - thanks for sharing that. (And good on Revell for sending a new one!)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Jon, you left out how to get out of those....sticky, situations, (cue the muted comedy cornet-wah, wah, wah, wahhhhhhhhh) when you've glued yourself with CA glue.
Acetone will dissolve CA glue. Many brands of nail polish remover have acetone as their active ingredient, and many modelers keep a bottle on hand.
Me? I'm a guy, so I bought a can of acetone at the hardware store. Erh, erh, erh, erh! The only problem is opening the safety lock cap when I've got one hand glued shut. But I've gotten good at holding the can between my knees and working a slotted screwdriver with the other.
I once held a 54mm figure in my right hand. The figure was cupped in my fingers, with my thumb holding it steady, with a piece to be attached. I opened the bottle, upended it to flow the glue into the join, then felt that rapid evaporation on the skin of my fingers, and realized immediately that it was a Beaker Moment. Like I said, I'm good at holding the can between my knees and popping the cap with a screwdriver in my free hand.
I've also learned to use my third-hand stand for holding pieces when I need to glue them...
Great stuff to know! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I was glued to my screen...
🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I stuck to it but needed de binder to close out the video 😅
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Does debonder hurt styrene? I have a turned metal barrel I have to remove and shorten.
I've not had any problems with it doing that. Certainly give it a test though. It will dissolve paint though.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Stick to it! I like buildihg sci-fi models with electronics and lighting effects. CA works great on the inside to tack down the wiring and route it neatly so it doesn't flop around and create unwanted shadows.
Cool stuff! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Stick to it Jon! 👍🐵👍
Haha! Will do! Thanks for watching and commenting! 😊
" Stick to it "....
Humm, baby power in CA? I have always used baking soda and CA to fill those stubborn cracks (Not Butt Cracks) and then sane it down with finger nail file and sand paper or a hand file. Old school vs new school I guess... Lol
That is about the only thing I use CA for but hay, ya never know...
LLAP 🖖
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
CA glue won't stick to parchment paper
I still wouldn't get it anywhere near transparent parts . They will fog > I one spoiled a POCHER kit of a Ferarri Testarossa which cost almost £300 , if you have touched the transparency ,your finger will leave "prints" onto which the CA will adhere ( Yes like Police fingerprints !!) oh and yes , it would rather stick to you than anything else !! careful with those small parts .
It can definitely do that! One simple way I found around it was to give the canopy a "dip" in Future/Pledge. I could then attach it with just a few dots of CA - this worked especially well on vacform canopies. But it does require care to do!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius thats a good plan with the pledge !
Stick to it!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! 😊
Another brilliant idea: photo etched parts for your face. Stick to it.
Call me a trendsetter! LOL
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Stick to it! (9 months late…er, um, maybe best to not make any double entendres about this…)😊
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Stick with It.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Stick to it
Thanks for watching and commenting!
stick to it !
Will do - thanks for watching and commenting!
Stick to it lol
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
You put efforts to choosing your topics before switch the camera ON and sit down on the chair. You pick topics differently, interestingly and educationally
Thanks so much for your kind words! I am grateful! Many times the topics come from questions I get, or questions I see raised in forums, etc. And i do try to prepare. I learned through the military and business that when giving presentations, anticipate the questions and be prepared to answer them. So I try to be thorough. but my over-arching goals ae to give a sense of the fun in the hobby, and to always be helpful.
Thank you so much for watching and commenting! I am quite encouraged by your kindness. Happy day to you!
Stick to it….
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Stick to it!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Stick to it
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Stick to it!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Stick to it!
Can do! 😉
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Stick to it
Can do! Thanks for watching and commenting! :D
Stick to it.
Thanks for watching and commenting!