Your a popular guy, I'm 31 I've been doing wood work since i was able to. My dad his Dad my Grandpa have had a collection of tool saws drills ect and I've had the lucky nature of being able to use them. Anyway I've move from south east England to Northern Ireland and not been able to take much apart from my collection of cacti, now watching your films you've inspired me to search for tools that i can kit out my shed and later build a shop to do a lot more with my skills also it would probably be helpful in the house to have a few more cabinets made to store toys and junk. i would just like to thank you your interesting informative films your somber voice and ideas you have given me. Cheers Stephen
I must admit that I have never seen one of those. I'm anxious to see it in action and how it compares to a newer style drum sander. I also really admire your affection for old equipment. I love the stuff myself! Thanks Frank, Merry Christmas to you and yours,,,,, :-)
Seriously, thats one heck of a machine! I doubt there is a more befitting owner than you good sir. I agree with the pulley change completely, and the self leveling epoxy is interesting, but your idea of changing the top to one that would facilitate attachments of various "what nots" is inspired. I've enjoyed your videos for years and hope to do so for many more to come!
Frank! A little trick I learned pulling cable for AT&T years ago... Whenever you pull new wire through a hole (ie. the orange wire) you always pull a new string/rope at the same time and leave it in the hole with the wire so there's a line in the hole already when you go to pull the next wire. Saves you the whole "shop vac and string" step. So, essentially every time you pull a wire you pull a rope/string with it at the same time so it's ready to go for the next time.
That nice motor looks beefy enough to put a FEW flat belts on it and run the sander a planer a jointer -- make your shop look like a turn-of-the-century woodshop. Another great video - thank you.
Bending will work I'm sure! ......What about pouring resin and letting that find the level... Thinking out loud now... Would need to fought up the metal though for it to grip.. Not sure why I'm awake thinking of this at 0100 hrs, watching Frank's and Matthias' channels lol
+Matthias Wandel Steel doesn't exhibit a lot of creep. If it doesn't return it in 10 minutes, it probably won't return in a couple of weeks. It will never be perfect this way, though, I would recommend replacing them with ground steel (or perhaps the resin) if you want the former glory.
Beautiful woodworking aside, I love these videos for your problem solving process. Very cool to see the how the problems are addressed and solved with great thought and safety in mind too. I would have blown my back and have pieces of broken machinery scattered everywhere no doubt.
I really enjoyed the ingenious methods you used to move the sander and the brilliant way you used the vacuum to pass a cable through the ducting. Brilliant stuff once again.
Just watching you move the equipment around is fascinating. Also, I'm starting to realize that half the fun of building stuff is building the stuff to build stuff with..
Wonderful dedication to save an old beast. I hate to see old but good kit thrown away but I would have walked away from that one - So good on you! I hope all the 'tuning' isn't too costly. I'd definitely get the tops re-machined rather than use wood. Chapeau!
hi Frank, thanks for all of the great content. I just wanted to make sure that you knew that most pick up truck tailgates can be easily removed with no tools. that could give more reach for your engine hoist.
Love old machinery! It's so kewl that you are willing to take the time and effort to bring it back to life. I look forward to watching more videos on your progress.
Despite the table damage, the old sander has a lot of potential. Especially if you do the mods you talked about. Thanks Frank. Merry Christmas, Happy New Year.
couple comments: Your shop is no slouch but your pal's shop is super authentic! Thrust washer on the sanding drum shaft should handle the back-forth. I would think you'd be better off having new steel tables fabbed rather than cobble up wooden tables (once you've gotten the balance & vibration issues solved) Unless I am mistaken they do not look too hard to duplicate. I am looking forward to seeing how you address the too-fast/out of balance issue. That could be several things and may take several approaches to tune out.. Annoying problem, to be sure. Your videos are superb, I truly enjoy them!
Hi Frank, To stop the moove of your shaft backward and frontward, you're supposed to have some rings on your "bearing cage" (i don't know the english name). The bearing is normally tight to the shaft, so that means if you lock the bearing, the shaft won't moove anymore. You can get those rings separately, there are different size of them (thickness, diameter...) I suggest you to change the grease, and also the joint. You've got a very nice shop, i love it. Best regards from France
Actually, you could take those tops down to your local machines hope and they should be able to laser straighten them. If you put wood up there, even hard wood , you have a chance of some expansion/contraction. Also, you could get a smaller pulley for your motor to slow down the speed. That would save you some money over the speed controller. The last thing, I believe you could get a spring for the shaft, between the bearing and belt pulley, which will keep the shaft from walking back and forth . Hope at least one of those plans help you.
+frank howarth Perhaps you should keep the small amount of shaft movement since it will act like a horizontal bobbin sander, and help to prevent sanding lines. And I thought the way you got the wire from the wall to the machine was brilliant!
+frank howarth Since the shaft is spinning, as well as the bearings holding the shaft... simply use machine shims between the drum and the bearing.. they a spin at the same speed.. no wear issues..
Your videos and work are terrific, thank you for sharing. I did notice that while you were installing the v-belt sheaves that there is considerable play between the bearings and pillow blocks. The drive end bearing needs to be locked into the housing with a lock ring. Just subtract the measure the face of the bearing from the space where it sits in the pillow block. Generally this is in mm. This width and pillow bock series # is all you need to get the right ring. Center the nde bearing in its housing and lock it to the shaft.
Thanks for the video. Nice machine, I look forward to seeing how it progresses. I love your friend's workshop. The gantry crane would be a must for such big heavy machines. Well done on working so well with your step down and no crane.
My compliments on getting this beast up and running. If I were a betting man I would say this was a pretty useful machine in the patter makers shop. Since it's not a jointer, I would replace the cast iron tops with laminated maple slabs. For what you're using it for, it would work great. And after a while you could always reflatten them as necessary. Option 2 is to find a machine shop with a Blanchard grinder and you'll be good as new. And just my .02, but I would just change pulley diameters to slow it down and use the money on surfacing the tables instead. I really appreciate the quality of your productions and cinematic feel of your videos. Great work.
What a fun machine! These older machines are just a dream to tune and tinker on. Should be easy to balance, sort of like a tire. If the rippims come down you may not have as much vibration. You have all the lathe tooling to get that carrier bearing back to spec I'm sure. It fits with all the other equipment and has your name on it already! It will be fun to see that stop animation of it coming apart! ;-)
Hi Frank very nice video I love it when you showcase older tools you are giving me a great education and I appreciate it. By the way, I saw on craigslist that someone is selling your large porter jointer in chicago for $2500 wish I had it !
I think anyone who uses those old machines has a sense of bravery most of us don't have. That is a lot of work to finally find out the machine needs a ton more work to be stable and safe.
+WootTootZoot It is called being careful. People today are not serious about anything. They expect to be protected from everything and they think someone else is responsible for THEIR being protected. And if someone fails to protect them, they get a lawyer and sue. I got news for you. YOU are responsible for your own protection. If you touch a hot wire, you are going to get shocked. If you put your hand in your bicycle spokes, it is gunna hurt. Take some responsibility for your self and stop wanting to be coddled by a newborn baby. Ever use a lathe? There is no way to guard something like that. You just be freaking careful. Ever wire a panel when everything is live? Unless you shut the whole facility down, you just be careful. That is life. Sometimes you are close to death. You just can't do certain things. You have to be careful. You have to be serious. Life is not always a joke. Stop watching reality shows and try actually living in reality. Get out of your fantasy land where nothing is your fault. Man up. Rant over. --Doozer
kooldoozer You misunderstand. It's a machine that's old, in poor shape and needs a lot of work that can cost a guy who works in a shop for his living a lot of money and time that he may not have. I don't have that amount of time to fuss with old shit, do you ? Stuff your rant up your ass.
A paper towel on a string and a vacuum cleaner...? Neat...! Thiese videos are like santa's workshop for us mere mortals...! For now, with all that speed and wobble, I will call your new "Frank Drum Sander" for_ "Frankenstein"...! Winter solstice greetings to you Frank, your Family.and friends...Jakob.
The vibration in both axes could be removed by balancing. If axial vibration is excessive you could have a thrust bearing to absorb movement without eating through your bearings. One thing I noticed is the really long shaft. I would say use it or cut it. You could do a disc sander, if you need it. The table could be straightened and ground flat. Ask around. Love your videos, along with your dream shop.
Frank, I second the thoughts below about inspecting the bearings, especially if they're made of Babbitt. I'd also get the tops Blanchard ground, or use something like G10 to add an auxiliary flat surface on top of the existing [warped] plates. Finally, you could add shims über the outfeed table to get the "jointer" utility. To me that seems more useful than having infeed and outfeed in the same plane. Nice find!
Hi Frank, if you choose to use a, VFD to slow the three phase motor down, be cautious of that. I only say this if your rotary phase converter is not balanced on all three legs, the VFD might go into a fault condition because of the uneven voltage on the VFD input. you might be better off using a 7.5-10 HP VFD on single phase input since there would be two input legs at a consistent voltage rather than a third "wild" leg from your RPC. Hope this helps. Scott
I had no idea these existed, very similar to the V drum sander. I made a v drum sander a few years ago with parts from stockroom supply (flatmaster) , works great for exactly what you were talking about, flattening rings for segmented turning.
Nice addition to your shop. Would you be able to do a future shop tour video of your friends shop? I would be interested in seeing what he does there..... Thanks Brad
Frank, have you looked into fabricating (or having someone fabricate) in-feed and out-feed tables from plate steel and square tubing? if the mating surfaces are not too complex it could be a simple solution. As far as jigs or fences go, a simplified biesemeyer type fence or strait edge clamp could be fabricated to facilitate accessories. BUT only cost effective if you use it a lot and it does not become a coffee table for the shop. Thanks for the videos.
I've been thinking about having a countertop business making a top for my table saw out of granite since it is very temperature stable. It'd probably get too thin to accommodate the curve of the drum, but I thought that might be an interesting option.
Love the editing in your video! Nice touch with the sander in the sky, very reminiscent of Andy Warhol... who I hate as an artist, but is perfect for a video montage!
Was just about to mentioned the safety issue with the uncovered belt. I am glad you mentioned it yourself at the end. Wouldn't it be easier to change the speed of the drum by using different sized pulleys, or do you need to be able to change speeds on the fly?
Is it possible that the drum wheel has bearings like Babbitt bearings that may need to be replaced? Or perhaps find a couple bearings that will fit on the drum shaft that could have stops machined to hold the drum from drifting? hard to tell for me as your video is showing how you moved it and got it up and running but I would check into both as a option.
Question time: your tools (powered) at least most of them are old. Do you have them because of coincidence and opportunity like this drum sander, or do you prefer them for some reason? Are they better? Or cheaper and good? Anyways just curious, great video as usual.
Most of the time you really don't need a VFD when you have a belt drive. You need to simply increase the diameter of the driven pulley to reduce the rpm. The motor runs more efficiently at full speed. Many drive suppliers have online software for drive selections, but since you have the drive sheave already you can just calculate a ratio to reduce the rpm and the new drive. Pulley will have the same ratio compared to the diameter of the drive pulley.
I recall seeing a homemade version of this style of drum sander. It was important for the table surface to be dead flat. The interesting thing I recall was that the wood didn't actually contact the drum or the paper unless the drum was at speed. The person showed in slo-mo how the paper would rise off the drum to contact the wood. I suppose you could either have the table surfaces milled flat or just do wood like Frank suggests. I wish I could recall which maker it was...
Frank-- Drum sander looks fantastic! Really interested to see how you use it. Regarding the drum speed, do you really need to adjust the motor speed electrically? My first (inexperienced) thought was to change pully sizes to a 3:2 ratio to bring the RPM down from 1200 to 800. Guessing there might be other reasons for electronic speed control anyway, but also guessing that the motor runs most efficiently at 1200 RPM, so it might work to think of using both. Also, if the drum can be raised and lowered, will that affect belt tension more than negligibly? Thanks for sharing your workshop, skills, and creations so openly. It's a real pleasure to watch. (Edit: Just noticed at least one person suggesting the pulley size solution long before me. Story of my life...) :-)
Fascinating! Never seen the likes - good, old-fashioned, indestructible build quality... Unless you are nostalgic about those bearings, Frank, I'd upgrade those to standard pillow block bearing with locking collars... Bring the shaft stability into the 21st century. I would expect you would see a difference on the quality of the cut, or finish, the end-play would be fixed by the locking collar cam action, and you'd have 0 maintenance for the rest of your lifetime. Also, I'd suggest having the tables re-machined; I understand your solution in wood, but doubt if you'll get the longevity that that piece deserves. Another idea would be to have iron tops welded to the old, then the new top machined with your T slots, etc. in them... :-) We all love thinking how we could get you to spend your money - so we can watch you enjoy it! Great video, as always, thanks for your efforts and for sharing!
Congratulations on your new sander. How about a smaller pulley on the motor to slow the machine down? I love your idea of the wooden tables. All the best of luck with it.
Your a popular guy, I'm 31 I've been doing wood work since i was able to. My dad his Dad my Grandpa have had a collection of tool saws drills ect and I've had the lucky nature of being able to use them. Anyway I've move from south east England to Northern Ireland and not been able to take much apart from my collection of cacti, now watching your films you've inspired me to search for tools that i can kit out my shed and later build a shop to do a lot more with my skills also it would probably be helpful in the house to have a few more cabinets made to store toys and junk. i would just like to thank you your interesting informative films your somber voice and ideas you have given me.
Cheers
Stephen
Oh lordy... the amount of work and patience and thinking that has gone in to this. Amazing. I need a cup of tea now.
I really admire Frank's workaround that allows him to get heavy equipment into and around the shop. Simply brilliant. The man is youtube gold.
No matter how many times I’ve watched this over the years, it’s always a joy and amusing! Absolutely the best animation! Thanks Howard!!!
Can't wait to watch that monster in action! All those cast metal parts! Impressive tool!
I must admit that I have never seen one of those. I'm anxious to see it in action and how it compares to a newer style drum sander. I also really admire your affection for old equipment. I love the stuff myself! Thanks Frank, Merry Christmas to you and yours,,,,, :-)
You've got to love these old-world wood accelerators!
Seriously, thats one heck of a machine! I doubt there is a more befitting owner than you good sir. I agree with the pulley change completely, and the self leveling epoxy is interesting, but your idea of changing the top to one that would facilitate attachments of various "what nots" is inspired. I've enjoyed your videos for years and hope to do so for many more to come!
Frank! A little trick I learned pulling cable for AT&T years ago... Whenever you pull new wire through a hole (ie. the orange wire) you always pull a new string/rope at the same time and leave it in the hole with the wire so there's a line in the hole already when you go to pull the next wire. Saves you the whole "shop vac and string" step. So, essentially every time you pull a wire you pull a rope/string with it at the same time so it's ready to go for the next time.
That nice motor looks beefy enough to put a FEW flat belts on it and run the sander a planer a jointer -- make your shop look like a turn-of-the-century woodshop. Another great video - thank you.
Major dust collection already concreted into the floor envy over here :)
AHA! Your father is jolly old Saint Nick! Thats why frank is so amazing at making things, he has the blood of a toy maker.
As an alarm/electrical company, I like seeing your wire pulling technique. You always see people fighting with pushing the wire through.
Maybe make a jig to apply force to bow the tables back up? A few weeks of constant pressure might make them move back.
+Matthias Wandel Yep, if they were bent, they can be bent back.
Bending will work I'm sure! ......What about pouring resin and letting that find the level... Thinking out loud now... Would need to fought up the metal though for it to grip.. Not sure why I'm awake thinking of this at 0100 hrs, watching Frank's and Matthias' channels lol
ThePaulius The resin isn't a bad idea, once you've rough leveled the surface, the resin could give you a perfectly flat surface!
+Matthias Wandel A few weeks of constant pressure gets people married.
+Matthias Wandel Steel doesn't exhibit a lot of creep. If it doesn't return it in 10 minutes, it probably won't return in a couple of weeks. It will never be perfect this way, though, I would recommend replacing them with ground steel (or perhaps the resin) if you want the former glory.
Beautiful woodworking aside, I love these videos for your problem solving process. Very cool to see the how the problems are addressed and solved with great thought and safety in mind too. I would have blown my back and have pieces of broken machinery scattered everywhere no doubt.
I really enjoyed the ingenious methods you used to move the sander and the brilliant way you used the vacuum to pass a cable through the ducting. Brilliant stuff once again.
Just watching you move the equipment around is fascinating.
Also, I'm starting to realize that half the fun of building stuff is building the stuff to build stuff with..
Thanks for sharing, Frank.
I enjoyed the logistics of cranes and engine hoist and dollies etc to get the equipment into your shop.
Keep on trucking !
I love seeing your vintage tools!
your shop is a dream-shop, and it is even becoming better and better. Congrats!!
I love the way you got the thing into your shop! your ingenuity is awesome!
Nice addition to the shop. I look forward to see the tables you build.
Omg! That sander is amazing!
I have never seen one of those before, ever! Thank you for posting this video.
Would it be safe to cut that shaft down? Because even when it isn't running, that shaft is a real ball-buster.
Two years later and at least one person (me) is laughing at your joke. Thank you. ~;:0)
Wonderful dedication to save an old beast. I hate to see old but good kit thrown away but I would have walked away from that one - So good on you! I hope all the 'tuning' isn't too costly. I'd definitely get the tops re-machined rather than use wood. Chapeau!
Awesome Frank, I love vintage machinery.
Love it Frank, can't wait to see your additions to it. Your shop it every woodworkers dream!
hi Frank, thanks for all of the great content. I just wanted to make sure that you knew that most pick up truck tailgates can be easily removed with no tools. that could give more reach for your engine hoist.
I will look into that.
Genius! Great way of moving it into the shop. Like the stair concept.
Love old machinery! It's so kewl that you are willing to take the time and effort to bring it back to life. I look forward to watching more videos on your progress.
That guy's shop is nuts.
+jribolla It's an amzing shop, I'm completely hooked on his videos. You'll see :)
Have you seen the videos of it being designed and built? If not, I recommend watching.
+el an (The shop) by the way.
It's definitely extreme for an individual owner! But must be nice to have to tackle any project.
+jribolla - Yup. Go BIG or go home.
Awesome addition to your shop. I can't wait to see what you do with the table tops.
Thank you Frank as always entertaining and educational.
Despite the table damage, the old sander has a lot of potential. Especially if you do the mods you talked about. Thanks Frank. Merry Christmas, Happy New Year.
couple comments: Your shop is no slouch but your pal's shop is super authentic! Thrust washer on the sanding drum shaft should handle the back-forth. I would think you'd be better off having new steel tables fabbed rather than cobble up wooden tables (once you've gotten the balance & vibration issues solved) Unless I am mistaken they do not look too hard to duplicate. I am looking forward to seeing how you address the too-fast/out of balance issue. That could be several things and may take several approaches to tune out.. Annoying problem, to be sure.
Your videos are superb, I truly enjoy them!
Looks like a fun project! Can't wait to see what you come up with! 😊
Old tools rock! Can hardly wait to see where you take this tool! As always awesome job!
I love the opening shots of the railway
Awesome, Frank! Look forward to seeing the finish!
Very cool, never saw one of those before except for one of the little sanding flees. Your friend has a sweet shop.
I always enjoy your videos when they come out!
A VFD should do the trick. Very cool, Frank! I love these old machine restorations you do.
Hi Frank,
To stop the moove of your shaft backward and frontward, you're supposed to have some rings on your "bearing cage" (i don't know the english name).
The bearing is normally tight to the shaft, so that means if you lock the bearing, the shaft won't moove anymore.
You can get those rings separately, there are different size of them (thickness, diameter...)
I suggest you to change the grease, and also the joint.
You've got a very nice shop, i love it.
Best regards from France
Will be really interesting to see this project develop, nice to take an old tool and make it more relevant and useful in the modern shop.
Actually, you could take those tops down to your local machines hope and they should be able to laser straighten them. If you put wood up there, even hard wood , you have a chance of some expansion/contraction. Also, you could get a smaller pulley for your motor to slow down the speed. That would save you some money over the speed controller. The last thing, I believe you could get a spring for the shaft, between the bearing and belt pulley, which will keep the shaft from walking back and forth . Hope at least one of those plans help you.
+webslinger67 I like the spring idea, I had not thought of that. I may start with a smaller pulley.
+frank howarth Perhaps you should keep the small amount of shaft movement since it will act like a horizontal bobbin sander, and help to prevent sanding lines.
And I thought the way you got the wire from the wall to the machine was brilliant!
+frank howarth Yes, get a much smaller pulley.
+frank howarth Since the shaft is spinning, as well as the bearings holding the shaft... simply use machine shims between the drum and the bearing.. they a spin at the same speed.. no wear issues..
Derrick Ottenbreit I think the babbitt bearings may be part of the frame. You may just need to pour new ones to improve end play.
Can't wait to see the finished assembly!👍🏼
Great find! Can't wait to see the upgrades.
Your videos and work are terrific, thank you for sharing. I did notice that while you were installing the v-belt sheaves that there is considerable play between the bearings and pillow blocks. The drive end bearing needs to be locked into the housing with a lock ring. Just subtract the measure the face of the bearing from the space where it sits in the pillow block. Generally this is in mm. This width and pillow bock series # is all you need to get the right ring. Center the nde bearing in its housing and lock it to the shaft.
Thanks for the video. Nice machine, I look forward to seeing how it progresses.
I love your friend's workshop. The gantry crane would be a must for such big heavy machines.
Well done on working so well with your step down and no crane.
My compliments on getting this beast up and running. If I were a betting man I would say this was a pretty useful machine in the patter makers shop. Since it's not a jointer, I would replace the cast iron tops with laminated maple slabs. For what you're using it for, it would work great. And after a while you could always reflatten them as necessary. Option 2 is to find a machine shop with a Blanchard grinder and you'll be good as new. And just my .02, but I would just change pulley diameters to slow it down and use the money on surfacing the tables instead.
I really appreciate the quality of your productions and cinematic feel of your videos. Great work.
What a fun machine! These older machines are just a dream to tune and tinker on. Should be easy to balance, sort of like a tire. If the rippims come down you may not have as much vibration. You have all the lathe tooling to get that carrier bearing back to spec I'm sure. It fits with all the other equipment and has your name on it already! It will be fun to see that stop animation of it coming apart! ;-)
I have a Sand-Flee... It's just like one of those... Well, like a Micro-Machine version. :) You have the coolest large machines.
OMG Frank, that thing is HUGE!
Your home-made crane worked perfectly!
Hi Frank very nice video I love it when you showcase older tools you are giving me a great education and I appreciate it. By the way, I saw on craigslist that someone is selling your large porter jointer in chicago for $2500 wish I had it !
Another great project Frank
I think anyone who uses those old machines has a sense of bravery most of us don't have. That is a lot of work to finally find out the machine needs a ton more work to be stable and safe.
+WootTootZoot It is called being careful. People today are not serious about anything. They expect to be protected from everything and they think someone else is responsible for THEIR being protected. And if someone fails to protect them, they get a lawyer and sue. I got news for you. YOU are responsible for your own protection. If you touch a hot wire, you are going to get shocked. If you put your hand in your bicycle spokes, it is gunna hurt. Take some responsibility for your self and stop wanting to be coddled by a newborn baby. Ever use a lathe? There is no way to guard something like that. You just be freaking careful. Ever wire a panel when everything is live? Unless you shut the whole facility down, you just be careful. That is life. Sometimes you are close to death. You just can't do certain things. You have to be careful. You have to be serious. Life is not always a joke. Stop watching reality shows and try actually living in reality. Get out of your fantasy land where nothing is your fault. Man up. Rant over. --Doozer
kooldoozer
You misunderstand. It's a machine that's old, in poor shape and needs a lot of work that can cost a guy who works in a shop for his living a lot of money and time that he may not have. I don't have that amount of time to fuss with old shit, do you ? Stuff your rant up your ass.
Big machine takes up some valuable real estate in your shop. I hope it is worth it. Good video, thanks.
Blair
A paper towel on a string and a vacuum cleaner...? Neat...! Thiese videos are like santa's workshop for us mere mortals...! For now, with all that speed and wobble, I will call your new "Frank Drum Sander" for_ "Frankenstein"...! Winter solstice greetings to you Frank, your Family.and friends...Jakob.
That's standard issue in the electric trade. Plastic bags are common.
The vibration in both axes could be removed by balancing. If axial vibration is excessive you could have a thrust bearing to absorb movement without eating through your bearings. One thing I noticed is the really long shaft. I would say use it or cut it. You could do a disc sander, if you need it. The table could be straightened and ground flat. Ask around. Love your videos, along with your dream shop.
Interesting video, I think it's very good you are recycling older tools.Please keep the video's coming.
Frank, I second the thoughts below about inspecting the bearings, especially if they're made of Babbitt. I'd also get the tops Blanchard ground, or use something like G10 to add an auxiliary flat surface on top of the existing [warped] plates. Finally, you could add shims über the outfeed table to get the "jointer" utility. To me that seems more useful than having infeed and outfeed in the same plane. Nice find!
By the time your finished with this machine Frank, I'm sure it will be top notch mate :)
Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Take care
Mike
Cool machine. Glad you got it.
Hi Frank, if you choose to use a, VFD to slow the three phase motor down, be cautious of that. I only say this if your rotary phase converter is not balanced on all three legs, the VFD might go into a fault condition because of the uneven voltage on the VFD input. you might be better off using a 7.5-10 HP VFD on single phase input since there would be two input legs at a consistent voltage rather than a third "wild" leg from your RPC. Hope this helps. Scott
youre going to throw a 60" disc sander on end of that shaft right? lol
+rdavidr Now there's an idea.
+rdavidr Why think so small? Forget the disc, put a propeller on that sucker and ride it!
read my mind
ooh hai
+frank howarth might as well that shaft as endless possibilities!
thats a hell of a sander u have there good luck and thanks for sharing the process of your cool tool
Neat machine, can't wait to see where it leads!
frank happy fathers day to your dad
Looking forward to seeing the evolution of your new (old) sander. merry Christmas and a happy new year.
Nice to hear NPR news in the shop!
Donovan seems to have a wonderful shop! Would like to see a shop tour of his!
I had no idea these existed, very similar to the V drum sander. I made a v drum sander a few years ago with parts from stockroom supply (flatmaster) , works great for exactly what you were talking about, flattening rings for segmented turning.
We'd love a tour of Donovan's shop!
I love it! Good luck on getting the kinks worked out.
Definitely a nice addition to the shop...the thing is really cool. I wonder if the table tops could be heated and hammered or pressed back into shape.
Last week I bought a sand-flee. It's the same concept except yours is a beast!
Good stuff. Thanks Frank.
Genius moving process.
Nice addition to your shop. Would you be able to do a future shop tour video of your friends shop? I would be interested in seeing what he does there..... Thanks
Brad
Frank, have you looked into fabricating (or having someone fabricate) in-feed and out-feed tables from plate steel and square tubing? if the mating surfaces are not too complex it could be a simple solution. As far as jigs or fences go, a simplified biesemeyer type fence or strait edge clamp could be fabricated to facilitate accessories. BUT only cost effective if you use it a lot and it does not become a coffee table for the shop. Thanks for the videos.
That paper towel on a string trick is invaluable!
Wow I love your set up I should’ve ran my dust collection under the floor before we poorer the concrete I just love that
I've been thinking about having a countertop business making a top for my table saw out of granite since it is very temperature stable. It'd probably get too thin to accommodate the curve of the drum, but I thought that might be an interesting option.
my cast iron table saw was bent like that. i added some bracing under neath and with set screws adjust it flat. worked better than expected.
Nice father/son bonding day...
Love the editing in your video! Nice touch with the sander in the sky, very reminiscent of Andy Warhol... who I hate as an artist, but is perfect for a video montage!
How did i miss this one!
Was just about to mentioned the safety issue with the uncovered belt. I am glad you mentioned it yourself at the end.
Wouldn't it be easier to change the speed of the drum by using different sized pulleys, or do you need to be able to change speeds on the fly?
Is it possible that the drum wheel has bearings like Babbitt bearings that may need to be replaced? Or perhaps find a couple bearings that will fit on the drum shaft that could have stops machined to hold the drum from drifting? hard to tell for me as your video is showing how you moved it and got it up and running but I would check into both as a option.
Great tool you got there, good luck with it!
Question time: your tools (powered) at least most of them are old. Do you have them because of coincidence and opportunity like this drum sander, or do you prefer them for some reason? Are they better? Or cheaper and good? Anyways just curious, great video as usual.
Most of the time you really don't need a VFD when you have a belt drive. You need to simply increase the diameter of the driven pulley to reduce the rpm. The motor runs more efficiently at full speed. Many drive suppliers have online software for drive selections, but since you have the drive sheave already you can just calculate a ratio to reduce the rpm and the new drive. Pulley will have the same ratio compared to the diameter of the drive pulley.
Nice video. You could sand the side of a building with that thing!
I recall seeing a homemade version of this style of drum sander. It was important for the table surface to be dead flat. The interesting thing I recall was that the wood didn't actually contact the drum or the paper unless the drum was at speed. The person showed in slo-mo how the paper would rise off the drum to contact the wood. I suppose you could either have the table surfaces milled flat or just do wood like Frank suggests. I wish I could recall which maker it was...
Frank-- Drum sander looks fantastic! Really interested to see how you use it. Regarding the drum speed, do you really need to adjust the motor speed electrically? My first (inexperienced) thought was to change pully sizes to a 3:2 ratio to bring the RPM down from 1200 to 800. Guessing there might be other reasons for electronic speed control anyway, but also guessing that the motor runs most efficiently at 1200 RPM, so it might work to think of using both. Also, if the drum can be raised and lowered, will that affect belt tension more than negligibly?
Thanks for sharing your workshop, skills, and creations so openly. It's a real pleasure to watch.
(Edit: Just noticed at least one person suggesting the pulley size solution long before me. Story of my life...) :-)
Very clever stair/crane/platform/dolly/rail setup.
Hope we see a part two, to this project soon.
Fascinating!
Never seen the likes - good, old-fashioned, indestructible build quality...
Unless you are nostalgic about those bearings, Frank, I'd upgrade those to standard pillow block bearing with locking collars... Bring the shaft stability into the 21st century. I would expect you would see a difference on the quality of the cut, or finish, the end-play would be fixed by the locking collar cam action, and you'd have 0 maintenance for the rest of your lifetime.
Also, I'd suggest having the tables re-machined; I understand your solution in wood, but doubt if you'll get the longevity that that piece deserves. Another idea would be to have iron tops welded to the old, then the new top machined with your T slots, etc. in them...
:-) We all love thinking how we could get you to spend your money - so we can watch you enjoy it!
Great video, as always, thanks for your efforts and for sharing!
Congratulations on your new sander. How about a smaller pulley on the motor to slow the machine down? I love your idea of the wooden tables. All the best of luck with it.