If you use WLED software then you can segment your LED so each panel is its own segment and then you can set color for each panel with one esp32/esp8266. Since each 3 leds on 2811 can be addressed with its own color.
Amazing that I've just found this video as I just started printing these from thingiverse last week. Great design. Modified slightly so I can use contact strips to mount them but otherwise perfect.
Today addressable LEDs make it too easy to get any colors you want, but I long ago realized that using cheap, non-addressable LEDs that are single color for the entire string, it would be beneficial to cross the wiring for each panel so that you can get differing colors in differing positions based upon the color choice you set the string to be.
where is your schematic for this? How are you getting anyway with not using a logic level shifter in this design? I'm using an ESP8266 for this but ESP32 is very similar and should have the same 3.3v logic output level. The WS2811 data pin wants 5V logic, right?
Well, diffuser clips are 2mm higher than normal. They don't lock on the Hexagons. The Thingverse files should be revised. Additionally, the Arduino sketch gives an error: 'class EspalexaDevice' has no member named 'setState'. Can you please check these points?
Thanks for the comment! I'm not sure what might be causing the error, are you using an older version of the EspAlexa library? Thanks for the heads up on the clips too, I'll look into it.
@@ModernHobbyist Same problem here. The top part does not fit into the base because the lock holes are too high. Maybe the models on Thingiverse needs an update? Thanks for sharing!
I like you design for the Hexaleafs. I probably use some of your changes when i make my own, but i thing they are a bit to high for my taste. The only things i would change is the hight, only use 3 "anchor" points for the top panel and make the cutouts at the bottom as breakoffs. No clue if someone already tested it, but i'm going to try and make a small chamfer for the LEDs so they shine to the front more directly. I hope they aren't going to shine through the front than :)
Thanks for the comment! I messed around with the height a bit to find what I thought looked best, but there certainly is some breathing room if you wanted to shrink them. The one problem you might run into is that the LEDs can get too close to the "diffusor" and you can see the individual LEDs. Play around with it and let me know what you end up with!
Thanks for the comment! I chose to use PLA since it would be easiest to make, but I have seen other people use thin sheets of PVC as well. One maker even used foam party plates he found on Amazon and he had quite a nice result! P.s. Sorry if I did a poor job translating your comment :S
Hey man, congrats on your channel. I loved all the videos so far, you're concise and clear, getting to the point pretty fast. The projects are awesome and the tutorials as well. My suggestion would be to keep putting more Anycubic content out, I've noticed gearbest is selling a lot of those in Europe and many new makers are hungry for Anycubic content, especially for the Mega-X which is at a pretty good price point at the moment given the print volume. Keep up the good work, I can't believe you have so few subs atm, I think that will pick up fast . My immediate suggestion would be a series of 2 videos : 1) Installing Marlin with mesh leveling 2) Setting up Octoprint
Hey thanks for the comment! I agree the Anycubic's are selling like hot cakes right now. Check out my channel for videos on installing Marlin and OctoPrint!
Yup, sorry about that! I originally used one like this: amzn.to/3qviSND but if I remade this project I would use a panel mount connector: amzn.to/3L1Hvsz Hope that helps!
Sorry for the late response, I don't have a video for software on this specifically, but you could set up different segments in WLED to be able to control each panel individually if you wanted!
Hey thanks for the comment! Unfortunately not since the WS2811 LEDs only have one data input pin, so the order in which the RGB values are decoded is done on each integrated chip. Hope that makes sense, thanks again for the comment!
Hey Bro i really love your videos anycubic upgrades and DIY Stuff, the only thing you need to workon a bit is on your lightning the NanoLeaf is too bright and is very distracting, and the lightning on your face is very harsh I'm not complaining it's just a tip, but your your hurting Peter McKinnon Eyes 😁
Haha thanks for the comment, I appreciate the feedback. I'll definitely keep working on it, but if Peter McKinnon does end up seeing my videos, I'll be honored regardless of the less than flattering lighting!
Hey thanks for the comment! The LEDs are connected in a continuous string, and the code is written so that each hex takes up 7 LEDs. So, for example, if I say turn hex #3 blue, it will turn LEDs #14-20 blue, assuming the first led is counted as 0. Hope that helps!
With that argument nothing is diy. You need tools to make stuff. If you make it from wood, you need tools like a drill, saw and other stuff, too. If you work with electronics you need a soldering iron, a voltmeter and a bunch of other tools. A 3D printer is a tool just like a powertool. And since they aren't really expensive with prices under 200$ for good ones there isn't really a problem with making a Tutorial using them.
Thanks for the comment and questions! I agree, getting a 3D printer can definitely be a drawback, but like Dezi said, that is a tool just like a table saw would be for a woodworking project. If you are interested in 3D printing projects like this, I would definitely recommend getting a budget printer, as they will certainly get the job done at a hobbyist level! Thanks again for the comment!
Hey Jamie, thanks for the comment! I printed the walls pretty thin, so I think it took something like 4-5 hours per hexagon, but I work from home so it wasn't bad getting all of them printed out.
Hey Erick, thanks for the comment! The bases take about 2.5 hours each and the top covers take about 1.5 hours each, that is using my settings. Hope that helps!
Thanks for the comment! I did decide to leave them for now, but I added a mode where I can set them all to random colors and I can't even notice the off-colored LEDs!
I'm on a budget, but I don't have a 3D printer, those are more expensive than the common "nanolights" online. Sorry, I can't follow. That title seemed misleading.
@@Hondunu I appreciate the feedback, but it is a common practice to list the cost of the project excluding the tools used to make it. I didn't include the cost of my soldering iron or the laptop that I used to program the lights for the same reason I didn't include the cost of the 3D printer.
Ah, Yes! Let me just bust out my free 3D printer with the free plastic it comes with! Non sarcasm here, should probably state in your title or thumb that this requires a 3D printer.
Since when is it a requirement to explicitly state the tools needed for a project in the thumbnail? I have seen countless woodworking videos that don't state "...with a table saw" in the title or thumbnail and that is a much harder tool to come by.
If you use WLED software then you can segment your LED so each panel is its own segment and then you can set color for each panel with one esp32/esp8266. Since each 3 leds on 2811 can be addressed with its own color.
How´d you do that? Do you have instructions?
Amazing that I've just found this video as I just started printing these from thingiverse last week. Great design. Modified slightly so I can use contact strips to mount them but otherwise perfect.
Thanks for the comment! Glad you liked the project!
Today addressable LEDs make it too easy to get any colors you want, but I long ago realized that using cheap, non-addressable LEDs that are single color for the entire string, it would be beneficial to cross the wiring for each panel so that you can get differing colors in differing positions based upon the color choice you set the string to be.
where is your schematic for this? How are you getting anyway with not using a logic level shifter in this design? I'm using an ESP8266 for this but ESP32 is very similar and should have the same 3.3v logic output level. The WS2811 data pin wants 5V logic, right?
awesome, looking forward to mark II :)
Great idea, I am gonna try this with PCB instead of cables also using wled to control them
Well, diffuser clips are 2mm higher than normal. They don't lock on the Hexagons. The Thingverse files should be revised. Additionally, the Arduino sketch gives an error: 'class EspalexaDevice' has no member named 'setState'. Can you please check these points?
Thanks for the comment! I'm not sure what might be causing the error, are you using an older version of the EspAlexa library? Thanks for the heads up on the clips too, I'll look into it.
@@ModernHobbyist Same problem here. The top part does not fit into the base because the lock holes are too high. Maybe the models on Thingiverse needs an update? Thanks for sharing!
@@AndroideDelValleFyi I have remixed the 3d models on thingverse to fix a couple of things. Look on remixes.
@@NIKOSGEOR I found it, thanks! I'm printing some of those and looks amazing. Thanks!
I like you design for the Hexaleafs.
I probably use some of your changes when i make my own, but i thing they are a bit to high for my taste.
The only things i would change is the hight, only use 3 "anchor" points for the top panel and make the cutouts at the bottom as breakoffs.
No clue if someone already tested it, but i'm going to try and make a small chamfer for the LEDs so they shine to the front more directly. I hope they aren't going to shine through the front than :)
Thanks for the comment! I messed around with the height a bit to find what I thought looked best, but there certainly is some breathing room if you wanted to shrink them. The one problem you might run into is that the LEDs can get too close to the "diffusor" and you can see the individual LEDs. Play around with it and let me know what you end up with!
Looking to start this project. Is your v2 going up soon or should I stick with this version?
sto cercando di documentarmi anch'io perché voglio farlo dato che costano troppo. il diffusore frontale è sempre pla? grazie
Thanks for the comment! I chose to use PLA since it would be easiest to make, but I have seen other people use thin sheets of PVC as well. One maker even used foam party plates he found on Amazon and he had quite a nice result! P.s. Sorry if I did a poor job translating your comment :S
Hey man, congrats on your channel. I loved all the videos so far, you're concise and clear, getting to the point pretty fast. The projects are awesome and the tutorials as well. My suggestion would be to keep putting more Anycubic content out, I've noticed gearbest is selling a lot of those in Europe and many new makers are hungry for Anycubic content, especially for the Mega-X which is at a pretty good price point at the moment given the print volume. Keep up the good work, I can't believe you have so few subs atm, I think that will pick up fast . My immediate suggestion would be a series of 2 videos : 1) Installing Marlin with mesh leveling 2) Setting up Octoprint
Hey thanks for the comment! I agree the Anycubic's are selling like hot cakes right now. Check out my channel for videos on installing Marlin and OctoPrint!
Is there an update when mark II will be ready?
Really enjoyed this!
Thanks for the comment! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Did you have a link to the female plug for the power supply?
Yup, sorry about that! I originally used one like this: amzn.to/3qviSND
but if I remade this project I would use a panel mount connector: amzn.to/3L1Hvsz
Hope that helps!
@@ModernHobbyist do you have a video for the software side? I normally use WLED but like how you can change individual panels with yours. Thank you.
Sorry for the late response, I don't have a video for software on this specifically, but you could set up different segments in WLED to be able to control each panel individually if you wanted!
Cant you just resolder these two strips to compensate for the different layout ?
Hey thanks for the comment! Unfortunately not since the WS2811 LEDs only have one data input pin, so the order in which the RGB values are decoded is done on each integrated chip. Hope that makes sense, thanks again for the comment!
Are the LED connectors linked in the description supposed to be 2 pin?
Good catch, thanks for the heads up! They are supposed to be 3 pin, the product must have changed.
Well done, nice video and it turned out great 👍
Thanks for the kind words! I appreciate it!
when i price this out with your parts list its closer to $100?
Thanks for watching! You can save a ton of money going through AliExpress.
under $ 30 with 3d print , Arduino and addressable led...is it a joke
Nope, not a joke. Aliexpress can make for some very cheap projects if you don't mind waiting for parts.
@@ModernHobbyist does it include 3d printer part
@@reshh9212 No, and it also doesn't include the computer I programmed the code on.
Hey Bro i really love your videos anycubic upgrades and DIY Stuff, the only thing you need to workon a bit is on your lightning the NanoLeaf is too bright and is very distracting, and the lightning on your face is very harsh I'm not complaining it's just a tip, but your your hurting Peter McKinnon Eyes 😁
Haha thanks for the comment, I appreciate the feedback. I'll definitely keep working on it, but if Peter McKinnon does end up seeing my videos, I'll be honored regardless of the less than flattering lighting!
how are the ledstrips lightning independent?
Hey thanks for the comment! The LEDs are connected in a continuous string, and the code is written so that each hex takes up 7 LEDs. So, for example, if I say turn hex #3 blue, it will turn LEDs #14-20 blue, assuming the first led is counted as 0. Hope that helps!
@@ModernHobbyist yeahh thank you very much!
how is this diy if you don't own a 3d printer? that's the problem with this type of diy videos.
With that argument nothing is diy. You need tools to make stuff.
If you make it from wood, you need tools like a drill, saw and other stuff, too.
If you work with electronics you need a soldering iron, a voltmeter and a bunch of other tools.
A 3D printer is a tool just like a powertool. And since they aren't really expensive with prices under 200$ for good ones there isn't really a problem with making a Tutorial using them.
Thanks for the comment and questions! I agree, getting a 3D printer can definitely be a drawback, but like Dezi said, that is a tool just like a table saw would be for a woodworking project. If you are interested in 3D printing projects like this, I would definitely recommend getting a budget printer, as they will certainly get the job done at a hobbyist level! Thanks again for the comment!
How long did it take to print out each hexagon?
Hey Jamie, thanks for the comment! I printed the walls pretty thin, so I think it took something like 4-5 hours per hexagon, but I work from home so it wasn't bad getting all of them printed out.
How thick is the front plate used to diffuse the light ?
Thanks for the comment! The final version I ended up using were 1.5mm thick.
How long does it take to 3D print?
Hey Erick, thanks for the comment! The bases take about 2.5 hours each and the top covers take about 1.5 hours each, that is using my settings. Hope that helps!
They look cooler this way, don't change those two panel's LEDs.
Thanks for the comment! I did decide to leave them for now, but I added a mode where I can set them all to random colors and I can't even notice the off-colored LEDs!
@@ModernHobbyist like i said they look better actually 👍
We're can you buy a 3d printer
The 3d printer that I have I got of www.anycubic.com/, they have several different models now at pretty great price points!
@@ModernHobbyist thanksxbro
I'm on a budget, but I don't have a 3D printer, those are more expensive than the common "nanolights" online. Sorry, I can't follow. That title seemed misleading.
I spent less than $30 for materials for this project, that's why I put that in the title.
I meant any 3D Printer, not the Nanolight project
@@Hondunu I appreciate the feedback, but it is a common practice to list the cost of the project excluding the tools used to make it. I didn't include the cost of my soldering iron or the laptop that I used to program the lights for the same reason I didn't include the cost of the 3D printer.
using a 3d printer and call it under 30$?
Ah, Yes! Let me just bust out my free 3D printer with the free plastic it comes with!
Non sarcasm here, should probably state in your title or thumb that this requires a 3D printer.
Since when is it a requirement to explicitly state the tools needed for a project in the thumbnail? I have seen countless woodworking videos that don't state "...with a table saw" in the title or thumbnail and that is a much harder tool to come by.
Hi #firstcomment