A trick I learned in the 1970s when I had a hippie style plant and leather store was to used a coat of blue under anything that I was going to dye black. Later in life when I became a graphic designer I discovered that this is a common procedure in the offset printing business. Often cyan and magenta are printed in areas before the black ink is applied. This is referred to as super black.
Hi! I have a glovedtanned coach bag that I want to change its color from black to a lighter color (navy blue or burgundy, or lavender, if it's even possible). Do you have any tips or recommendation?
I bought a red leather bag a while ago and it looks old and needs a bit change, i was thinking of dyeing it dark brown, can i do it considering it’s already has color
Dyes usually work best on undyed, unfinished leather. You could try using a product like a deglazer to remove the old finish, but I would be worried about ruining the bag.
@@tylawtran I am not a professional, but I did turn some brown American Duchess leather shoes black last year. I used deglazer first, then used a black leather dye, then conditioned, then waxed, and they've held up fine. I think it's possible you might need two coats of color to cover the green, but maybe one would be enough. I think since you're going for a color that covers up all other colors you're probably good, I would just deglazer first to get rid of the old topcoat is all, because it could be waterproof.
That is exactly what I was looking for. I have a small project of a knife sheath and was looking at how to dye or paint the leather. Thanks for the short explanations.
@@gm_fatboy You could still follow the same process we demonstrated in this video. Pro Dye and Leather Dye are very similar, but Pro Dye takes longer to dry.
In my experience, it helps to get a more even application of the dye. Additionally, if you use alcohol based dye like fiebings leather dye, it has the tendency to dry out the leather, so conditioning it with oil before and after dying help mitigate that.
Good evening, I have a question, is it possible to apply oils, balms, creams over these finishes (resolene, bah kote, ecc) to nourish the leather or do they form a waterproof layer that prevents absorption? Thanks for the reply and thanks for the interesting video!
Resolene is a waterproof finish, so oils and balms would not penetrate. I would recommend conditioning your leather with oil before applying the finish. Or, you can use a non-waterproof finish like leather balm if you plan to condition your piece regularly. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hi! First,i have to congratulate you!❤ Secondly,i have a question. If i want to dissolve the "leather dye" , I'll do it with water, with alcohol or with something else? Thank you at advance! 😄
Hi, Thanks for the comment! That's a great question. It can depend on the kind of leather dye and what you're trying to dissolve it from. Please email us at info@salrite.com. We are more than happy to help you out!
Hola! La marca de los productos se llama Fiebing's. Los puedes conseguir usando nuestro sitio web. Aqui se puede encontrar muchos de los productos que usamos en el video: www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=fiebings
hi! Im very new to leather - if I dyed a piece myself and intend to hand paint details w/ Angelus later, would it change how I should go about sealing my dyed piece first? thanks
Yes, we recommend resolene to seal in dye and prevent it from rubbing off. I am less familiar with angelus 4 coat. Here is the link to read more about it: www.sailrite.com/Fiebings-Resolene-Acrylic-Finish-for-Leather-Neutral-4-oz
What type of leather are you working with? And how did you apply the resolene? Either of those two factors could explain why the leather is not shiny. Usually one coat is enough to get a nice shine, which is why i ask those questions before telling you to apply more. I'm happy to help you figure this out!
I have a question, please . Is this good if i want to make my seadoo seat . If yes, what is the best option alcohol or water base ? Or is this product not for me ?
Hi! Thanks for reaching out with your question. While leather might seem like a luxurious choice for a seadoo seat, it's not the best option for marine environments. Leather can absorb water and deteriorate quickly when exposed to the elements, leading to mold, mildew, and a breakdown of the material. Instead, we highly recommend a marine-grade vinyl like our EverSoft for your seadoo seat project. EverSoft is specifically designed for marine upholstery. It's completely waterproof, which means it's resistant to mold and mildew, ensuring your seadoo seat stays in top condition no matter the weather. Plus, it's durable and easy to clean, making it a practical choice for any marine craft. You can find EverSoft and other materials on our website: www.sailrite.com/Fabrics/Marine-Fabric/Marine-Upholstery-Vinyl-Fabric/Brand/EverSoft Let us know if you have any questions. We'd be happy to help!
They are very similar products, but my personal preference is leather sheen. I find that leather sheen is easier to apply and can also be buffed, whereas Resolene cannot. Both products do an equally good job of preventing rub-off.
You can dye the flesh side, and make sure to do it before burnishing. If you burnish first, you would be creating a barrier for the dye to get through, which wouldn't allow the dye to properly soak in to the leather.
Hi! I watched another video that said to use a deglazer before dyeing but I didnt see that in this video. Also, if I do deglaze my leather can I condition it before and after dyeing? Thank you!!
In this video, we are dyeing unfinished veg-tan leather, so using deglazer wasn't necessary. Deglazer is typically used to remove existing finishes from leather. If you are also working with natural veg-tan, I would say using deglazer is a bit redundant. The type of leather you are working with would also influence my answer regarding conditioning. However, as a general rule, I prefer to condition before and after.
I dyed using Low Voc dark brown on back/front/sides. After allowing to dry overnight, it was still a little runny. So I wiped it down good and then coated the whole piece with Resolene. Something didn’t seem right immediately following the application, really tacky. I allowed it to dry for 20 minutes and it is dry but tacky to the touch. What did I do wrong or failed to do properly?
What type of dye did you use? Im not sure why it wouldnt dry overnight. Were you dying undyed leather? Maybe the piece you were dying already had a finish on it which prevented the new dye from soaking in.
@@SailriteWorkbench I believe it was some Loc Voc someone gave me. When I made a second attempt on a fresh test piece of leather, it wasn’t sticky/tacky. It was rather stuff because I didn’t precondition it.
Are you familiar with those “dummy” books from the 90’s? That’s what worked for me. I like your video & have watched many videos on dying and there seems to be dozens of ways to dye leather using the same color. From prep to alcohol vs oil, to leather prep versus no prep to post finish etc., and too many products to mention. For folks like me that are new to leather, what is the best/easiest and most affordable dye type and process? Pro or non-pro Fiebings? Before watching your video, I’d already bought the non-pro, the one folks refer to as “alcohol” based, which is a mystery unto itself. Simple works best for most, especially newcomers. Your video is good and I’ll watch it again to compare to the other videos I’ve watched as there seems to be no “right way” or consistent way of dying leather. I don’t want to deal with “run-off” or leather that’s as hard as a rock after dying. Please advise. Thank you.
Hi, I would agree with you when you said there is no "right" way of dying leather, because there are several ways to get good results with varying products and amount of effort. You will see lots of opinion on the subject of dying leather, and the best thing I could recommend is just testing out a couple methods and seeing which one feels best for you and gets the results you are going for. the non-pro fiebings dye (called leather dye) is actually my preferred product. Since alcohol is one of its main ingredients, it dries quickly and can be diluted with isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) which is inexpensive. I like to dilute my dye and apply several coats, because in my experience, it is nearly impossible to avoid splotchiness when using undiluted dye. Additionally, if you have to apply 3-4 coats of undiluted dye in order to get an even application, the color becomes so dark it hardly looks like the color on the front of the bottle. To avoid the leather becoming hard after dyeing: apply neatsfoot oil before and after you apply the dye. This will rehydrate the leather and make it soft again. to avoid rub off: use a finishing product such as resolene, leather balm, leather sheen, or bag kote. Resolene is the most protective, but can be tricky to apply. It also has more of a high gloss than some of the other products I mentioned. This video you commented on is very "by the book", but if you want to see my personal favorite method of dying leather, I go through the entire process in this video: ruclips.net/video/slCslXJiPOE/видео.htmlsi=RRGxbYWY-nKsmpqu&t=455 i hope that helps!
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A trick I learned in the 1970s when I had a hippie style plant and leather store was to used a coat of blue under anything that I was going to dye black. Later in life when I became a graphic designer I discovered that this is a common procedure in the offset printing business. Often cyan and magenta are printed in areas before the black ink is applied. This is referred to as super black.
Hi! I have a glovedtanned coach bag that I want to change its color from black to a lighter color (navy blue or burgundy, or lavender, if it's even possible). Do you have any tips or recommendation?
I love these videos. This young lady is such a great presenter and teacher.
Very good and informative video! Thank you.
Is leather sheen the only finisher that prevents dye transfer? What is the best way to avoid transfer from the edges or flesh side?
Most any acrylic finish will do a good job of sealing. I use Fiebing's Resolene personally and cut it 50/50 with water.
Can you use leaether balm with resolene over it for waterproofing? I’m looking for a soft pliable conditioner that’s waterproof.
Excellent presentation.
So for full grain leather resolene is better?
Very imformative
I bought a red leather bag a while ago and it looks old and needs a bit change, i was thinking of dyeing it dark brown, can i do it considering it’s already has color
Dyes usually work best on undyed, unfinished leather. You could try using a product like a deglazer to remove the old finish, but I would be worried about ruining the bag.
@@SailriteWorkbenchi am trying to dye some neon green calfskin leather shoes to black and I have the water based dye, would it still work?
@@tylawtran I am not a professional, but I did turn some brown American Duchess leather shoes black last year. I used deglazer first, then used a black leather dye, then conditioned, then waxed, and they've held up fine. I think it's possible you might need two coats of color to cover the green, but maybe one would be enough. I think since you're going for a color that covers up all other colors you're probably good, I would just deglazer first to get rid of the old topcoat is all, because it could be waterproof.
Thank you for sharing this useful guide.
Thanks for this lovely video 😊
That is exactly what I was looking for. I have a small project of a knife sheath and was looking at how to dye or paint the leather. Thanks for the short explanations.
glad it helped! good luck on your project
@@SailriteWorkbench Thanks.
@@SailriteWorkbench Hi there. I have a question. Will there be any changes if I use the PRO Leather Dye?
@@gm_fatboy You could still follow the same process we demonstrated in this video. Pro Dye and Leather Dye are very similar, but Pro Dye takes longer to dry.
А что вы нового узнали из этого видео? Что краску надо наносить на материал? Бесполезный ролик.
Do you have to oil the leather before dying? I've never done that and this is the only time I've seen someone do it
In my experience, it helps to get a more even application of the dye. Additionally, if you use alcohol based dye like fiebings leather dye, it has the tendency to dry out the leather, so conditioning it with oil before and after dying help mitigate that.
Good evening, I have a question, is it possible to apply oils, balms, creams over these finishes (resolene, bah kote, ecc) to nourish the leather or do they form a waterproof layer that prevents absorption? Thanks for the reply and thanks for the interesting video!
Resolene is a waterproof finish, so oils and balms would not penetrate. I would recommend conditioning your leather with oil before applying the finish. Or, you can use a non-waterproof finish like leather balm if you plan to condition your piece regularly. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hi! First,i have to congratulate you!❤ Secondly,i have a question. If i want to dissolve the "leather dye" , I'll do it with water, with alcohol or with something else? Thank you at advance! 😄
Hi, Thanks for the comment! That's a great question. It can depend on the kind of leather dye and what you're trying to dissolve it from. Please email us at info@salrite.com. We are more than happy to help you out!
I'm talking about fiebing's leather dye (alcohol based) I just want to make the color lighter, before dye the veg tan leather. Thank you! 😊
Buenos días. Me puede informar que marca son los productos y como puedo conseguirlos?
Hola! La marca de los productos se llama Fiebing's. Los puedes conseguir usando nuestro sitio web. Aqui se puede encontrar muchos de los productos que usamos en el video: www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=fiebings
hi! Im very new to leather - if I dyed a piece myself and intend to hand paint details w/ Angelus later, would it change how I should go about sealing my dyed piece first? thanks
Hi! I would not seal the piece until you have fully completed dyeing and painting it. Sealing should always be the last step.
@@SailriteWorkbench Thank you!
my leather keeps bleeding and staining my shirt should i resolene or can i use angelus 4 coat?
Yes, we recommend resolene to seal in dye and prevent it from rubbing off. I am less familiar with angelus 4 coat.
Here is the link to read more about it: www.sailrite.com/Fiebings-Resolene-Acrylic-Finish-for-Leather-Neutral-4-oz
@@SailriteWorkbenchhi i already applied resolene and let it dry but it apears matt why is it not shiny ? Do i need to apply more ?
What type of leather are you working with? And how did you apply the resolene? Either of those two factors could explain why the leather is not shiny. Usually one coat is enough to get a nice shine, which is why i ask those questions before telling you to apply more. I'm happy to help you figure this out!
I have a question, please . Is this good if i want to make my seadoo seat . If yes, what is the best option alcohol or water base ? Or is this product not for me ?
Hi! Thanks for reaching out with your question. While leather might seem like a luxurious choice for a seadoo seat, it's not the best option for marine environments. Leather can absorb water and deteriorate quickly when exposed to the elements, leading to mold, mildew, and a breakdown of the material. Instead, we highly recommend a marine-grade vinyl like our EverSoft for your seadoo seat project.
EverSoft is specifically designed for marine upholstery. It's completely waterproof, which means it's resistant to mold and mildew, ensuring your seadoo seat stays in top condition no matter the weather. Plus, it's durable and easy to clean, making it a practical choice for any marine craft. You can find EverSoft and other materials on our website: www.sailrite.com/Fabrics/Marine-Fabric/Marine-Upholstery-Vinyl-Fabric/Brand/EverSoft
Let us know if you have any questions. We'd be happy to help!
For dog collars would you recommend leather sheen or Resolene? I am worried that the dye will rub off on the dog.
They are very similar products, but my personal preference is leather sheen. I find that leather sheen is easier to apply and can also be buffed, whereas Resolene cannot. Both products do an equally good job of preventing rub-off.
@@SailriteWorkbench Thank you! Appreciate it!
Hello im trying to learn if i can dye the flesh side of a belt, should i burnish it first, sand, or just dye it fuzzy?
You can dye the flesh side, and make sure to do it before burnishing. If you burnish first, you would be creating a barrier for the dye to get through, which wouldn't allow the dye to properly soak in to the leather.
@@SailriteWorkbench thanks
I have a smooth deerskin upholstery on a sofa that has been water stained. What color would you recommend that would hide the water stains? TIA
What color is it now? A chocolate brown or black should be dark enough to cover most stains.
Hi! I watched another video that said to use a deglazer before dyeing but I didnt see that in this video. Also, if I do deglaze my leather can I condition it before and after dyeing? Thank you!!
In this video, we are dyeing unfinished veg-tan leather, so using deglazer wasn't necessary. Deglazer is typically used to remove existing finishes from leather. If you are also working with natural veg-tan, I would say using deglazer is a bit redundant. The type of leather you are working with would also influence my answer regarding conditioning. However, as a general rule, I prefer to condition before and after.
@@SailriteWorkbenchthank you so so much! Super helpful info!😊
I dyed using Low Voc dark brown on back/front/sides. After allowing to dry overnight, it was still a little runny. So I wiped it down good and then coated the whole piece with Resolene. Something didn’t seem right immediately following the application, really tacky. I allowed it to dry for 20 minutes and it is dry but tacky to the touch. What did I do wrong or failed to do properly?
What type of dye did you use? Im not sure why it wouldnt dry overnight. Were you dying undyed leather? Maybe the piece you were dying already had a finish on it which prevented the new dye from soaking in.
@@SailriteWorkbench I believe it was some Loc Voc someone gave me. When I made a second attempt on a fresh test piece of leather, it wasn’t sticky/tacky. It was rather stuff because I didn’t precondition it.
Are you familiar with those “dummy” books from the 90’s? That’s what worked for me. I like your video & have watched many videos on dying and there seems to be dozens of ways to dye leather using the same color. From prep to alcohol vs oil, to leather prep versus no prep to post finish etc., and too many products to mention.
For folks like me that are new to leather, what is the best/easiest and most affordable dye type and process? Pro or non-pro Fiebings? Before watching your video, I’d already bought the non-pro, the one folks refer to as “alcohol” based, which is a mystery unto itself.
Simple works best for most, especially newcomers. Your video is good and I’ll watch it again to compare to the other videos I’ve watched as there seems to be no “right way” or consistent way of dying leather. I don’t want to deal with “run-off” or leather that’s as hard as a rock after dying. Please advise. Thank you.
Hi, I would agree with you when you said there is no "right" way of dying leather, because there are several ways to get good results with varying products and amount of effort. You will see lots of opinion on the subject of dying leather, and the best thing I could recommend is just testing out a couple methods and seeing which one feels best for you and gets the results you are going for.
the non-pro fiebings dye (called leather dye) is actually my preferred product. Since alcohol is one of its main ingredients, it dries quickly and can be diluted with isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) which is inexpensive. I like to dilute my dye and apply several coats, because in my experience, it is nearly impossible to avoid splotchiness when using undiluted dye. Additionally, if you have to apply 3-4 coats of undiluted dye in order to get an even application, the color becomes so dark it hardly looks like the color on the front of the bottle.
To avoid the leather becoming hard after dyeing: apply neatsfoot oil before and after you apply the dye. This will rehydrate the leather and make it soft again.
to avoid rub off: use a finishing product such as resolene, leather balm, leather sheen, or bag kote. Resolene is the most protective, but can be tricky to apply. It also has more of a high gloss than some of the other products I mentioned.
This video you commented on is very "by the book", but if you want to see my personal favorite method of dying leather, I go through the entire process in this video: ruclips.net/video/slCslXJiPOE/видео.htmlsi=RRGxbYWY-nKsmpqu&t=455
i hope that helps!
sponge brush?
that will work! it will be similar to the foam piece we used, but a sponge brush should have a handle that will make it easy to hold.