... had to stop by once again just to say another big thank you... watching this video a few hours ago raised my confidence to repair a 3 meter RGB IP65 strip tucked under the eves of my shed. The full length of the strip worked except for a 4 inch section smack in the middle. I have just carried out a successful repair by following your solder method to replace the defective section with strip (surplus from the original installation). I also used heat shrink to strengthen and protect the joints as you advised. I just wanted to say that I may have discovered a better way of separating the silicon from the strip. I did mine by making the cut an inch or so away from the actual cut mark and peeling the silicone back until just past the cut mark before finally cutting the silicone and strip. This method negates the potential risk of damaging the copper ends and makes getting the silicone to start peeling away a bit easier.
Great Job discussing of the various types of RGB LED connections, I have found the insulation displacement connectors that uses the slide underneath method are a chore to line up properly. Great Topic!
I’ve been using the snap-on connectors, especially for 90 degree turns, but just learned from you that I have not been installing them correctly. I have been placing the copper tabs on the strip atop the pins in the connector, not sliding them underneath. They have all been working. It’s too late to change them out as the lights are all installed throughout my boat. I did switch to soldering and using wire for the 90 degree turns but I need a much better soldering gun. Sometimes the solder refuses to adhere to the tabs on the LED strip, which is frustrating.
If you like liquid tape. You will LOVE shoe goo..... it dose not peel off as easily dries just as fast and is more reliable. Also when dry it is less flexible for better support to connections. (= Great video my friend. CHEERS!
Thanks for the video what do I do if I only want the white to light up trying to make a small handheld light box for my camcorder and I want to power the lights with a power bank
You spoke of failure with a solder joint. Have you thought about adding an extension under the LED strip past the solder joint since you are heat shrinking far in enough to cover the first LED?
Thank you very much. I have a few quick questions if you don't mind. I've ordered my LED strips just waiting for them to come, I'm wanting to run 2x5 m lengths of RGB strip from the 12v 10amp power supply that comes with the kit, I have the spitter so that I can power both strips from one end but I want to add power to both ends so I don't get a dimming effect. I have watched some videos on youtube but I'm sure you will agree the more "how-to" videos you watch the more "Questions" they leave you with. 1. Will it be necessary to add more power? (Should i wait and see) 2. If so what is the best way to go about it, do I have to buy another power supply or can I splice into the existing one's connectors somehow? 3. If splicing do I need all 4 wires connected just for power or only 2 or 1? 4. LED amplifiers, are they just for the signal that changes the color of the Diodes or do they boost voltage along the strip? Sorry to bother you but as you can see i need a little help. Thank again for the video
I also have an associated web page to the video that might help" www.rv-project.com/projects/ledstrip.php A 10A power supply should run 10M of LED strip. I would try it first by plugging one strip into the other and see if there is excessive voltage drop on the far end (evidenced by dimmer LEDs). Typically you can connect two strips together before you have to power it differently. Typically with SMD5050 strips, they are around 180mA per ft with all 3 colors on, so 10M of strip should be within your power supply's 10A capacity. The LEDs are wired so the Anodes of all LEDs are common with the + side of the power supply. Each LED color's Cathode (Negative) side turns on that color when it is grounded. So you need the power supply + to go to the LED + common, and the power supply negative on the R, G, or B LED strip terminals depending on which one you want on. Typically LED amplifiers do not boost voltage. They usually have a MOSFET driver that is basically a voltage controlled switch. A typical purpose is to control a higher power LED string of lights from a low power output such as an Arduino microcontroller.
This is the exact info I've been scouring for hours for. I have had issues trying to use different methods of actually powering the strips. They seem very sensitive and I was trying to use old power supplies from the mess of 12v electronics I had retired to boxes in my basement lol Thanks so much for the info, you are really good at these tutorials. I would know, I've watched 10s of 1000s ... :P Keep up the good work my man
What was the failure of the connectors? Where they not pierced properly, did the piercing tabs break, etc. Just curious as one of the RGB strip kits that I ordered came with these connectors.
Yes, the clips are garbage. I KILLED myself with those, to find out they are completely unreliable. Now we solder - I'm having an issue, after I crimp all the lights together (I test them and they work), I attach it to the power source. They don't work. I take off the plastic connector, test them on the power source, they work. What am I doing wrong? thanks!
As long as the strip is rated for 12V and the battery is 12V, then it would work. However, you will want some kind of on/off switch. For every project video, I publish a project page on the RV-Project.Com website. The project page has much more information on connecting LED strips to RVs: www.rv-project.com/projects/ledstrip.php
Weller 40Watt WLC100 soldering station: amzn.to/2EmYdTm and the flux comes with the electronic solder. This is what I use for solder: amzn.to/34dhIsv If you need additional flux, make sure it is made for electronics (rosin not acid). I use this stuff: amzn.to/3gcG7RB
Whats the wire connecter called? Can I not just connect it to a cell phone charger if I have a small cutting of left over led striplight? Like soldering just the red and black wires to the strip light connecters?
Polo Purpp u can use a charger or adapter etc. just make sure the output of the charger is 12v (most led strips are made for 12v). most phone chargers have an output of 5v, which will not work. there is a sticker on almost every charger which tells the output.
Generally the LED strips require 12VDC to operate (sometimes 24VDC). Your cell phone charger has too low of a voltage and current capacity to work correctly.
Yes, but it is pretty messy. A special purpose epoxy called Potting Compound is designed to encapsulate electronic components. The advantage is the epoxy has electrical properties, such as static free that helps in this regard. Unfortunately, it takes 24 hours to dry and is pretty fluid, so I would not use it in this instance.
I’m looking to put four led strips under my car doors would I be able to just use the black and red for power. Since my power from my car is only 2 wires ??? Thanks for your help
If you are looking at monochrome LEDs, then yes; Black to Ground and RED to 12V. The color will be whatever color you buy. If you are using RGB LEDs, then Black and RED = RED, Black and GREEN = GREEN, and so on. Realize though that in the case of RGB LEDs, the Black wire may be Positive.
Most LED strips designate the LED size, for example SMD5050 is a 50mmx50mm LED. SMD type strips have 4 wires; a RGB (red, green, blue) and common wire. 5 wire SMD strips have RGBW (red green blue white) and a common wire. However, not all LED strips follow that convention. A 6803 is one such strip and "6803" refers to the controller chip within the LED strip. These strips are "programmable". Some strips have three wires, and some have 4 wires. Three wire strips have POSITIVE, NEGATIVE, and DATA leads. Four wire strips have POSITIVE, NEGATIVE, DATA, and CLOCK leads. To use these LEDs, you need a controller that provides the proper data packets (and a synchronization clock for 4 wire strips) to the LED strip.
For soldering, the conventional wisdom is that you want to heat the joint and let the solder melt over the joint, rather than heating the solder. I'm guessing that if you did that here, it would melt some of the other components before the pads got hot enough to melt solder.
That is correct. I find that a hotter pencil - at least 750Deg F and a quick touch of the solder and joint works best. The higher temp gets the job done without overheating the strip. It does take some practice.
I've always had similar issues, the quick "piercing" connectors still need soldered. Outside of what extra protection they offer, it's still Better to just solder any of them directly to the PCB tape.
The standard power supply supports 5m to 10m depending on the RGB strip. Just ask the seller if it is AliExpress or a Chinese seller. They are honest and give you the adapter you need =) Aka. Less than 5m for RGB 5050 is no problems. 10 meter is fine too but that is where suppliers put the limit for best outcome
All wiring will have some voltage drop issues. It is the product of the wire gauge, distance traveled, and current through the wire. I have a voltage drop calculator on my website that might give you the answer you are seeking: www.rv-project.com/tips/wirecalc.php
Can someone tell me howe to hook up the four wires to a 12 volt power source? I want to use a 9 volt and two 1.5 volt batteries as I am gluing this to a guitar. But I do not know where to run the wires.
I produce a webpage for every youtube project video I do. The webpage has additional information, schematics, and sources. You will find several connection options and schematics there: www.rv-project.com/projects/ledstrip.php
Yes you can. However, if the length is significantly longer, you will eventually run into voltage drop issues. Anytime a current passes through a wire, some voltage is lost. This is a product of the wire length, wire AWG, and amount of current that passes through it. In your case, if you have a really long wire run, you may have to increase the wire's AWG. I have two resources on my website that explains this. The first is an article that provides the issue: www.rv-project.com/tips/dcwiring.php The second page is an on-line calculator that allows you to rapidly see what happens when you change the wire length, wire gauge, or amount of current passing through the wire: www.rv-project.com/tips/wirecalc.php
@@NoOne-eh8ft At some point, that would be correct. But it all depends on the AWG of the wire you have. Also on my website, I have suggestions as to how much current each LED strip light type will require, and coupled with my calculator I already mentioned, you can get a fairly good estimate as to your maximum distance. www.rv-project.com/projects/ledstrip.php
You can get pretty close to a 24" strip by cutting one or more segments out of a strip. I cannot give you an exact measurement as different LED strips have different segment lengths. I have seen a few 1meter strips though, but that is not the size you need.
Common heat shrink will be 3:1, that is, it will shrink 66%. But there are other shrink rates, so find a heat shrink that will shrink a bit more than the cross-section of the wire you are using.
I use a Hakko FX888D (amzn.to/2RithFs). However I do realize it is a bit expensive, but I use soldering gear enough to warrant the cost. Prior to the Hakko, I used a Weller WLC100 (amzn.to/2P4TANF) for many years with outstanding service. I still have the Weller as a backup.
Goin to do this in shower niches,so the waterproofing was great,I only need 3 feet,and transformer,driver, dimmer,thru attic,using a conduit,for ease of future replacement
This is the latest wire I bought: amzn.to/2nsiHvS However, it's a lot of solder if you are only going to need a little bit. You can buy similar solder in smaller quantities: amzn.to/2nvlw0f Of course, the larger spools are a better deal if you need more.
I actually dial down the 40w soldering iron to just over 50% on the dial. Not sure how that corresponds to wattage, but I'm using significantly less than 40W. The trick is a clean tip and good solder. Get a wet sponge cleaner to keep the tip clean (the WLC 100 has one), but you can buy a tip cleaner for just a few bucks. The tip should always be shiny.
It depends on the length of the run and the current you expect to run through that wire. Especially for DC wiring, you do tend to lose voltage along the wire. I do have a wire-size calculator on my website where you can plug in voltage, current, and length of the wire, and acceptable voltage loss, and it will tell you what wire size you need: www.rv-project.com/tips/wirecalc.php The trickiest part perhaps is determining the acceptable voltage drop. As a general rule-of-thumb, I use 3% or less for sensitive electronic circuits, and 10% or less for lighting, motors, etc.
RVProject I went to the page you provided the link to... well, I guess I should fess up. I'm technologically unsmart. The page confused me more; if you have the time I would appreciate any help you could provide? I've got a 6' RGB LED light strip that I want to install above each of the three windows in my conversion van. My power supply is (4) AA batteries. What I'm hoping to do: 2' light strip ➡️ 2' wire ➡️ 2' light strip ➡️5' wire ➡️2' light strip I've done some soldering in the past I think I can handle that; but I am clueless on wire gauge, voltage, etc.... If you can help a technology challenged fella I would so appreciate it; I'd be forever in your debt! thank you, Rich Barnhart
That black wire looked awfully close to being a dry joint. It makes me laugh that Americans sound the L in saLmon but not in soLder. Anyway nice video otherwise.
What a great tutorial! I really miss you. I'm so glad that your videos will live forever.
... had to stop by once again just to say another big thank you... watching this video a few hours ago raised my confidence to repair a 3 meter RGB IP65 strip tucked under the eves of my shed. The full length of the strip worked except for a 4 inch section smack in the middle. I have just carried out a successful repair by following your solder method to replace the defective section with strip (surplus from the original installation). I also used heat shrink to strengthen and protect the joints as you advised. I just wanted to say that I may have discovered a better way of separating the silicon from the strip. I did mine by making the cut an inch or so away from the actual cut mark and peeling the silicone back until just past the cut mark before finally cutting the silicone and strip. This method negates the potential risk of damaging the copper ends and makes getting the silicone to start peeling away a bit easier.
Thank you for sharing.
Wow, the macro camera angles are priceless. Still a great resource in 2021! Thank you!
Thank you for your support of the channel.
And it's still a great resource in 2022! Cheers!!
Great Job discussing of the various types of RGB LED connections, I have found the insulation displacement connectors that uses the slide underneath method are a chore to line up properly. Great Topic!
Not all superheros wear capes. Some just wield soldering irons instead. Thank you for the great video, you saved me big.
Thanks for the Anecdotal reply. But my significant other will never agree to that.
At last a concise guide presented well
I’ve been using the snap-on connectors, especially for 90 degree turns, but just learned from you that I have not been installing them correctly. I have been placing the copper tabs on the strip atop the pins in the connector, not sliding them underneath. They have all been working. It’s too late to change them out as the lights are all installed throughout my boat. I did switch to soldering and using wire for the 90 degree turns but I need a much better soldering gun. Sometimes the solder refuses to adhere to the tabs on the LED strip, which is frustrating.
Thank you for supporting the channel.
Love the close ups - thank you.
Thank you for supporting the channel.
A well filmed and very informative video. Great job! Thanks so much for posting this.🙏
Thanks for watching.
Excellent tutorial fantastic camera work 👍🏴
Glad you enjoyed it
Wonderful close view demonstration.. clapping for you
Many thanks
Great video. Thank you! You covered so many aspects and gave valuable insight and experience. Excellent.
Nice video.
I am glad it helped.
an easy thumb up - brilliant tutorial - something new learned today - thanks for sharing your expertise - appreciated
Glad it helped.
Dude that sodering was like a pro u did great job
If you like liquid tape. You will LOVE shoe goo..... it dose not peel off as easily dries just as fast and is more reliable. Also when dry it is less flexible for better support to connections. (= Great video my friend. CHEERS!
Liquid tape has an electrical dielectric property that insulates connections. Does shoe goo have the same characteristics?
I saw a video, where someone used corner connectors. Cannot find them online. Most likely because I don’t know their official name.
wow, one of the best instructional videos i have seen on you tube, excellent.
Thanks alot for your reply...I will get that a try and see how it goes
Best of luck!
Thank you so much for the Reply! I will do that soon,
Any time!
Great information! Thank you very much for sharing! Greatly appreciated!
Have you tried 2 layer Heat shrink? It has an epoxy liner that may work better than liquid tape
I'll have to check that out.
Thanks for the video what do I do if I only want the white to light up trying to make a small handheld light box for my camcorder and I want to power the lights with a power bank
Thank you for supporting the channel.
You spoke of failure with a solder joint. Have you thought about adding an extension under the LED strip past the solder joint since you are heat shrinking far in enough to cover the first LED?
Yea. You could probably put a piece of plastic or something under the heat shrink.
Soldering = SKILLZ!!! How did you get it so clean?
Many years of experience designing, constructing, and repairing electronic circuits.
Thanks for the video! How do you change the colors after you've cut them?
Visit my project webpage for the video: www.rv-project.com/projects/ledstrip3.php
Thank you for the video , where can I buy the cable 4 wires , how many types are available. Thank you
You can probably buy them anywhere LED strip supplies are sold. Here is one source: amzn.to/2Yb1cpy
You da man...great job Mr.
Thank you for supporting the channel.
Amazing job, Step by step well done.
Thank you for your comment.
Thank you very much.
I have a few quick questions if you don't mind.
I've ordered my LED strips just waiting for them to come, I'm wanting to run 2x5 m lengths of RGB strip from the 12v 10amp power supply that comes with the kit, I have the spitter so that I can power both strips from one end but I want to add power to both ends so I don't get a dimming effect.
I have watched some videos on youtube but I'm sure you will agree the more "how-to" videos you watch the more "Questions" they leave you with.
1. Will it be necessary to add more power? (Should i wait and see)
2. If so what is the best way to go about it, do I have to buy another power supply or can I splice into the existing one's connectors somehow?
3. If splicing do I need all 4 wires connected just for power or only 2 or 1?
4. LED amplifiers, are they just for the signal that changes the color of the Diodes or do they boost voltage along the strip?
Sorry to bother you but as you can see i need a little help.
Thank again for the video
I also have an associated web page to the video that might help" www.rv-project.com/projects/ledstrip.php
A 10A power supply should run 10M of LED strip. I would try it first by plugging one strip into the other and see if there is excessive voltage drop on the far end (evidenced by dimmer LEDs). Typically you can connect two strips together before you have to power it differently.
Typically with SMD5050 strips, they are around 180mA per ft with all 3 colors on, so 10M of strip should be within your power supply's 10A capacity.
The LEDs are wired so the Anodes of all LEDs are common with the + side of the power supply. Each LED color's Cathode (Negative) side turns on that color when it is grounded. So you need the power supply + to go to the LED + common, and the power supply negative on the R, G, or B LED strip terminals depending on which one you want on.
Typically LED amplifiers do not boost voltage. They usually have a MOSFET driver that is basically a voltage controlled switch. A typical purpose is to control a higher power LED string of lights from a low power output such as an Arduino microcontroller.
Thank you, I knew you were the right guy to ask.
I really appreciate the help
This is the exact info I've been scouring for hours for. I have had issues trying to use different methods of actually powering the strips. They seem very sensitive and I was trying to use old power supplies from the mess of 12v electronics I had retired to boxes in my basement lol
Thanks so much for the info, you are really good at these tutorials. I would know, I've watched 10s of 1000s ... :P
Keep up the good work my man
On a weak joint I will place 1 or 2 plastic toothpicks before adding the heat shrink to give more strength to the joint.
Good tip. Never thought of that.
You never cut on the scissors? You cut incorrectly?
Such a useful video.. Thank you so much bro ❤️
Thank you for supporting the channel.
What was the failure of the connectors? Where they not pierced properly, did the piercing tabs break, etc. Just curious as one of the RGB strip kits that I ordered came with these connectors.
Yes, the clips are garbage. I KILLED myself with those, to find out they are completely unreliable. Now we solder - I'm having an issue, after I crimp all the lights together (I test them and they work), I attach it to the power source. They don't work. I take off the plastic connector, test them on the power source, they work. What am I doing wrong? thanks!
Insulation displacement can sometimes be a bear to get to work. I would try to use some heat shrink to prevent movement as much as possible.
Excellent video. Thanks.
Thank you for supporting the channel.
Can a 12v LED strip be connected directly to a 12v leisure battery setup @RVProject
As long as the strip is rated for 12V and the battery is 12V, then it would work. However, you will want some kind of on/off switch.
For every project video, I publish a project page on the RV-Project.Com website. The project page has much more information on connecting LED strips to RVs: www.rv-project.com/projects/ledstrip.php
If you don't mind me asking..what type of soldering iron and flux did you use to repair the strip.
Weller 40Watt WLC100 soldering station: amzn.to/2EmYdTm
and the flux comes with the electronic solder.
This is what I use for solder: amzn.to/34dhIsv
If you need additional flux, make sure it is made for electronics (rosin not acid). I use this stuff: amzn.to/3gcG7RB
Really helpful, thanks
Thanks for watching.
Good, straight-forward video! What temperatur should one use for soldering LED strips?
I use about 750Deg F
The color of the wires arent importan is it? Can I use like 4black wires?
Electrons don't care what color the wire is. You can use any color you have handy. It's just a bit harder to know which wire does what.
RVProject yea thats what I thought. Thx allot for the tuturial and the answer! Appreciate it!
Whats the wire connecter called? Can I not just connect it to a cell phone charger if I have a small cutting of left over led striplight? Like soldering just the red and black wires to the strip light connecters?
Polo Purpp u can use a charger or adapter etc. just make sure the output of the charger is 12v (most led strips are made for 12v). most phone chargers have an output of 5v, which will not work. there is a sticker on almost every charger which tells the output.
Generally the LED strips require 12VDC to operate (sometimes 24VDC). Your cell phone charger has too low of a voltage and current capacity to work correctly.
Instead of the liquid tape, can you put epoxy over the connections?
Yes, but it is pretty messy. A special purpose epoxy called Potting Compound is designed to encapsulate electronic components. The advantage is the epoxy has electrical properties, such as static free that helps in this regard.
Unfortunately, it takes 24 hours to dry and is pretty fluid, so I would not use it in this instance.
Thank you this is a great how to
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks you you’ve saved me £30
Glad I could help
I’m looking to put four led strips under my car doors would I be able to just use the black and red for power. Since my power from my car is only 2 wires ??? Thanks for your help
If you are looking at monochrome LEDs, then yes; Black to Ground and RED to 12V. The color will be whatever color you buy.
If you are using RGB LEDs, then Black and RED = RED, Black and GREEN = GREEN, and so on. Realize though that in the case of RGB LEDs, the Black wire may be Positive.
RVProject thank you what would you recommend for my auto rgb or mono
Joseph Mcnamee mono
Thanks for the detailed explanation! :)
Glad it helped.
hi friend i just bought a led strip that said 6803 but it only has 3 wires not 4, what are their differences?
Most LED strips designate the LED size, for example SMD5050 is a 50mmx50mm LED.
SMD type strips have 4 wires; a RGB (red, green, blue) and common wire. 5 wire SMD strips have RGBW (red green blue white) and a common wire.
However, not all LED strips follow that convention. A 6803 is one such strip and "6803" refers to the controller chip within the LED strip. These strips are "programmable". Some strips have three wires, and some have 4 wires.
Three wire strips have POSITIVE, NEGATIVE, and DATA leads. Four wire strips have POSITIVE, NEGATIVE, DATA, and CLOCK leads. To use these LEDs, you need a controller that provides the proper data packets (and a synchronization clock for 4 wire strips) to the LED strip.
thank you so much
@@RVProject
is it ok if i just use black and red wires like they are not rgb and black?
Doesn't make a difference what the wire colors are as long as you keep the functions straight.
For soldering, the conventional wisdom is that you want to heat the joint and let the solder melt over the joint, rather than heating the solder. I'm guessing that if you did that here, it would melt some of the other components before the pads got hot enough to melt solder.
That is correct. I find that a hotter pencil - at least 750Deg F and a quick touch of the solder and joint works best. The higher temp gets the job done without overheating the strip. It does take some practice.
@@RVProject Just found that out yesterday while wiring my very first strip. It is so easy to destroy the ends.
How or what's the name of the wires? Red, blk , green and where can be found?
One of many sources: amzn.to/3fEsOMV
@@RVProject thank you
How many watt soldering gun do you need? I will be using 18 gauge wire.
25Watt should be sufficient.
I've always had similar issues, the quick "piercing" connectors still need soldered. Outside of what extra protection they offer, it's still Better to just solder any of them directly to the PCB tape.
I never liked the insulation displacement idea on any connector.
is there a voltage drop over long distances when extending for 2-3 meters?
The standard power supply supports 5m to 10m depending on the RGB strip. Just ask the seller if it is AliExpress or a Chinese seller.
They are honest and give you the adapter you need =)
Aka. Less than 5m for RGB 5050 is no problems. 10 meter is fine too but that is where suppliers put the limit for best outcome
All wiring will have some voltage drop issues. It is the product of the wire gauge, distance traveled, and current through the wire.
I have a voltage drop calculator on my website that might give you the answer you are seeking: www.rv-project.com/tips/wirecalc.php
Can someone tell me howe to hook up the four wires to a 12 volt power source? I want to use a 9 volt and two 1.5 volt batteries as I am gluing this to a guitar. But I do not know where to run the wires.
I produce a webpage for every youtube project video I do. The webpage has additional information, schematics, and sources. You will find several connection options and schematics there: www.rv-project.com/projects/ledstrip.php
what is the torch you are using please?
Dremel Versatip: amzn.to/3mBJ7vp
What size is that heat shrink?
Can someone post a link for the waterproof connections, preferably right angle connectors
Can we use longer wires? More than 1 meter
Yes you can. However, if the length is significantly longer, you will eventually run into voltage drop issues.
Anytime a current passes through a wire, some voltage is lost. This is a product of the wire length, wire AWG, and amount of current that passes through it.
In your case, if you have a really long wire run, you may have to increase the wire's AWG.
I have two resources on my website that explains this. The first is an article that provides the issue: www.rv-project.com/tips/dcwiring.php
The second page is an on-line calculator that allows you to rapidly see what happens when you change the wire length, wire gauge, or amount of current passing through the wire: www.rv-project.com/tips/wirecalc.php
@@RVProject so if i used longer wire for my strip lights the led may not be that bright? Am i correct?
@@NoOne-eh8ft At some point, that would be correct. But it all depends on the AWG of the wire you have. Also on my website, I have suggestions as to how much current each LED strip light type will require, and coupled with my calculator I already mentioned, you can get a fairly good estimate as to your maximum distance. www.rv-project.com/projects/ledstrip.php
@@RVProject okay thank you! 😁
do they sell pre-cut 24'' waterproof RBG strips? ive been searching... i need the strips not the whole kit
You can get pretty close to a 24" strip by cutting one or more segments out of a strip. I cannot give you an exact measurement as different LED strips have different segment lengths. I have seen a few 1meter strips though, but that is not the size you need.
RVProject ....10,4 . i might have to bite the bullet.make my own..
Dennis Kingsley I would just get the whole thing, it's cheap and you can just go ham on everything with the rest
10,4... got everything i need thu the mail this wknd...
Perfect! Thanks!
I tried using those connectors, but the didn't work for me. Then I tried the solder, but it wouldn't take. 🤔
There are so many variations of the parts from China it's hard to know which brand works and which does not.
Thank you so much! ✌🏻
You're welcome!
Excellent
Glad you found it informative.
What size heat shrink for 10 mm strip
Common heat shrink will be 3:1, that is, it will shrink 66%. But there are other shrink rates, so find a heat shrink that will shrink a bit more than the cross-section of the wire you are using.
Thanks
You are welcome.
Excellent thank you
you are welcome.
What sodering ( Tip) gun do you recommend?
I use a Hakko FX888D (amzn.to/2RithFs). However I do realize it is a bit expensive, but I use soldering gear enough to warrant the cost. Prior to the Hakko, I used a Weller WLC100 (amzn.to/2P4TANF) for many years with outstanding service. I still have the Weller as a backup.
AWESOME JOB THANK YOU
Thanks for your comment.
can i use the same adapter with any length?
Farouk Khairy yes
Is it me, or is there some sort of interference i can hear coming from that soldering iron when it makes contact?
You are correct, there is some buzz coming from the soldering iron that you can hear on the audio. I did not notice it until I published the video.
superb
Thank you for supporting the channel.
Holy feedback batman
Thanks for supporting the channel.
Goin to do this in shower niches,so the waterproofing was great,I only need 3 feet,and transformer,driver, dimmer,thru attic,using a conduit,for ease of future replacement
Good luck with your project.
Hi. How hot is your soldering pen? 45 or 60w.
5~40Watt adjustable Weller WLC100
amzn.to/2nv3gEl
Thanks. And how about your soldering wire?
This is the latest wire I bought:
amzn.to/2nsiHvS
However, it's a lot of solder if you are only going to need a little bit. You can buy similar solder in smaller quantities:
amzn.to/2nvlw0f
Of course, the larger spools are a better deal if you need more.
I tried with 60w because I found the 40w was not heating fast enough but I damaged the stripes. Any advice for on how to use the 40w?
I actually dial down the 40w soldering iron to just over 50% on the dial. Not sure how that corresponds to wattage, but I'm using significantly less than 40W.
The trick is a clean tip and good solder. Get a wet sponge cleaner to keep the tip clean (the WLC 100 has one), but you can buy a tip cleaner for just a few bucks. The tip should always be shiny.
What's the pencil call?
Pencil?
thanks you so much
You are welcome.
I agree, the connectors are very hit and miss...
Thank you for supporting the channel.
@@RVProject No problem 👍.... In fact I didn't realize I wasn't subscribed, so now I am subscribed.
"Cut on the scissor icon" ... completely cuts the pads off of the other side too..
Nicely done video tho , I need to get a better soldering utensil 🤨
Thank you for your comment.
I can't wait to start making my own LED LIGHT MOTORCYCLE HELMET. Then I start making my own LED ROBOT SUIT.
OK.
Isn’t liquid tape, glue?🤨
it's a rubber coating according to the manufacturer.
you almost cut it in the wrong place REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
Glad one of us was paying attention.
What gauge wire do I use?
It depends on the length of the run and the current you expect to run through that wire. Especially for DC wiring, you do tend to lose voltage along the wire.
I do have a wire-size calculator on my website where you can plug in voltage, current, and length of the wire, and acceptable voltage loss, and it will tell you what wire size you need:
www.rv-project.com/tips/wirecalc.php
The trickiest part perhaps is determining the acceptable voltage drop. As a general rule-of-thumb, I use 3% or less for sensitive electronic circuits, and 10% or less for lighting, motors, etc.
RVProject
how tremendously helpful thank you so very much!!!
RVProject
I went to the page you provided the link to... well, I guess I should fess up.
I'm technologically unsmart.
The page confused me more; if you have the time I would appreciate any help you could provide? I've got a 6' RGB LED light strip that I want to install above each of the three windows in my conversion van.
My power supply is (4) AA batteries. What I'm hoping to do: 2' light strip ➡️ 2' wire ➡️ 2' light strip ➡️5' wire ➡️2' light strip
I've done some soldering in the past I think I can handle that; but I am clueless on wire gauge, voltage, etc....
If you can help a technology challenged fella I would so appreciate it; I'd be forever in your debt!
thank you,
Rich Barnhart
That black wire looked awfully close to being a dry joint. It makes me laugh that Americans sound the L in saLmon but not in soLder. Anyway nice video otherwise.
Thank you for your input.
huh
OK
Great video, thank you
You are welcome.
How would you do that in rows/in parallel series?
The LED strips are already wired in series/parallel. The termination shown here is simply on the end of the strip.