Try reducing the number of teeth on the gears. High performance oil pumps tend to have straight cut gears with only 3 lobes/teeth. This way you could move more volume of liquid at lower rpm which would lead to less bubbles
Roots blowers and those with very few teeth have external synchronising gears. Helical gears can be used but you have to make allowance for the liquid trapped between the meshing teeth that is forced axially along the meshing gears.
Water is a perfectly good hydraulic fluid. The only reason not to use water are if it will corrode steel components, freeze, or provide insufficient lubrication.
Of course yes, the specific heigh of water makes it the perfect hydraulic fluid. The fundamental problem with water is erosion and rust. But since most are plastic, it is not a problem, in fact, a good option.
Not really. Water is a horrible hydraulic fluid/lubricant, it has very little to do with corrosion (although, yes it will corrode metals, not just steel). All the water would be doing in a pump would be removing the heat from any friction between moving surfaces (thus why it’s working in his pump, and most industrial vacuum pumps use water in the same way, by utilizing it to remove the heat generated from any friction, not to actually lubricate.) Water on the suction side can evaporate thus introducing gas in a sealed system which does compress and will cause issues (think about bleeding your brakes on your car, you do it do remove any gases in the system, if you used water, you would constantly have gas in the brake system). You’d have to have a ton of pressure and heat while compressing water to turn it into steam. Pressurized steam isn’t produced by pumping water at high pressure but by heating it in a contained environment. the chances of creating any pressured steam from pumping water to the point you’d have an explosion is slimmer then you winning the mega millions jackpot lottery. Steam explosions are also typically caused by a steam trap not functioning correctly and allowing water to build up in a low spot of the line, and then you’ll get water hammer but at what ever pressure the system is at, and it breaks stuff. Think of any water hammer you may have noticed when you shut off your faucet quickly, that’s typically between 25-50psi, imagine that at 600-1200psi plus, at the very least you’ll blow gaskets out of the line it happens to, been there and fixed that. (Bad thing is most production engineers will just wonder why the gaskets failed and solely be looking into the life span or heat cycle life of them, and you have to actually show them there’s a bad steam trap up stream for them to believe you, or if you don’t it just happens again and again)
@@ferguson20diesel49 Yeah same here, if anything its usually about the same price until you get into the bulk sizes, unless your looking at the lambo spec ATF fluids
Hi, you can add check valve in inlet to prevent water moving back to bucket so you don't need to prime it everytime. The downside is you can't moving water in reverse
i actually designed a resin 3d printed check valve. it held 120 psi of air without exploding. i used siraya tech blue. i wouldn't recommend some fragile cheap resin. but I like the idea of adding one to his water bump.
For any hydraulic system, it’s really important to bleed any air out of the lines and cylinders so that those bubbles don’t degrade the performance of the pump; it also reduces backlash and springiness in the system Also like other comments mentioned, most pumps aren’t self starting, so starting them fully primed should help a lot
I'm going to print one for sure, thanks for sharing your files! I must mention that plastic gear pumps usually are not self-priming, (and should not be run dry) while diaphragm pumps are self-priming, meaning they can get rid of the air in the system and then transfer whatever liquid through the piping, designing a diaphragm pump for 3D printing is a challenging task.
Correct. A self priming pump uses a diaphragm to create suction on one side and pressure on the other. Requiring only the flow of air to get the fluid moving. Sometimes called chugger pumps but often just diaphragm pumps. However: many of the lines in your car use vacuum generated by the engine to pull on feed lines until a pump can engage the fluid.
From I have heard from a guy whose job it is to study this kind of stuff, told me that even the supper expensive pumps can only suck like 2 ft. or 60 cm.
I'd really like to see how it does if the pump is primed! I think it'd do fairly well. There aren't many self starting pumps out there, and most pumps can't be run dry as they use the fluid to cool them. Air in a pump dramatically reduces its power, at least the water was able to push the air through, but if it were in a closed loop, it may come into some issues because loads of microbubbles would form like in the oil.
The leaky pumps were funny at first, in these videos, but now it's driving me nuts. LOL. I love the videos, but I really want to see him fix the leaks.
A chamber can be created for priming without affecting the design of the pump. A simple screw for the opening, the air affects the performance of the piston.
Nice project! :) Maybe orings on top and bottom caps help. Also with hydrochloric action you want to increase the pressure so bigger discharge port might help. Thanks again for the great video 🌹
You know what really grinds my gears? Enormously talented content creators, who don't know about proper gear spacing Edit: also, ATF, (transmission fluid) and check valves might help. I wonder how well a tesla valve would work?
*The philosophy of the rich and the poor is this: the rich invest their money and spend what is left. The poor spend their money and invest what is left"*
The rich stay rich by spending like the poor and investing without stopping then the poor stay poor by spending like the rich yet not investing like the rich
Design your prints w/ the threads cut into the plastic. After printing, you can easily use the correct tap to clean-up the threads. There should also be a gasket between the housing and faceplate.
This is a good video. I think if you would experiment with straight gears instead of curved gears you might have a better suction and discharge. Prime example look at Bowie Pumps. They have straight gears for their impellers. Just a thought.
using straight cut gears and shorter gears will improve performance. The gears are pushing on the sides of the casings because angled gear teeth want to push each other away like a screw thread.
Very good video, an observation that I can give you is that hydraulic gear pumps are generally slower, with fewer teeth per gear, greater space between teeth and the cavity that contains them is normally submerged within the hydraulic fluid to handle large volumes and are not reversible, the change of direction in the fluid is carried out by a sliding valve. I hope it works and good luck.
The liquid used in a hydraulic system is a hydraulic fluid. Water is a hydraulic fluid if used for that purpose. Oil may just be more preferable since it also lubricates and don't corrode the equipment. For sealing, graphite strings can be quite good to reduce frictions , as an alternative to orings.
you should put a little screw in the side of the pump, so when you wanna bleed all the air out of the pump you can just fill it up with water from that screw hole or just dump in water from the inlet until it comes out that hole, it would also probably help a lot when you decide to use it for its actual purpose with hydraulic fluid.
I think it might work better if the pump was sealed better and air was completely removed from the system. I’ve seen this on bigger hydrostatic systems. Also the cylinder should be actuated by valves and the pump should only run in one direction. It’s all in good fun though! I love it!
Its a kind of vedio that l have been desperately searching since long..... Quite informative.... Doubt clearing... Thank you so much.... Love from Kerala, India...
You can fill up the pump with fluid. No pump can run dry efficiently. So if you start by filling it it will get rid of air bubbles. also use a one way vluve to the input of your pump so fluid can't get out when the pump is stopped.
Try putting gasket maker around the outside of thr top that or an oring to stop the leak and may allow for better pull and push of the fluid because there won't be leaks where you are loosing suction power
Mech engineer here who worked with gear pumps. You want straight cut gears, not helical. Better sealing and also it removes the thrust loads. You need to feed the inlet better. They must be flooded in order to work properly. Usually you have a shaft that comes out and not the motor shaft going into the pump. The idlers generally just rides on a pin with bushings, not bearings. It was a good first attempt but there are ways to improve on the design.
That's right. A good little gear oil pump i and few others in the waste veg oil for vehicles use is a brass gears and straight gears. Its all over ebay etc must been a good little popular design. I took it apart pretty basic and a bush as you stated. I'm no engineer but its interesting id like be able make one but bit past me with the basic tools i got in my shed. Its a good little solid pump, i know ppl have pumped 1000's ltr wvo years it's intermittent and reversible and a thermal cut out so its fool proof and 12-24v so its good for home use little jobs everywhere water, oil, engine oil etc,. i wish someone would design one for 80-100 psi and slow about 10-14 ltrs minute for centrifuge as they are way expensive and harder to find.
@jaffasoft8976 for your application I would recommend a sliding vane pump. Gear pumps are usually for high pressure and low flow applications or for precision metering. I believe diesel transfer pumps would be what you are looking for.
It was not 100% necessary to CNC those acrylic parts, you could have 3D printed a template and routed and drilled the acrylic, although the CNC service's quality looked very good! Maybe a non return valve will help as the pump will be always primed. Great video and build! I had always discounted using resin parts as when I first got a resin printer the resin parts were very brittle but I see advertisments for ABS like strengths of some resins so I may start using some resin parts in the future.
2 rules for pumps. 1. Always position the pump at the bottom of the reservoir. 2. Never run the pump dry, it will burn out or wear out the bearings, so always prime the pump first. You could have the pump above the reservoir if you use check valve on the outlet of the pump and prime the system(get the fluid into the pump).
So far so good attempts, my respects You can use some engine joint former for the leaks, check the kind that can handle oils and fuel. Also, the gear tooth design is provoking the emulsion of the oil with the air that gets into the pump housing, you can either lower the rpms or maybe make a more globular design (usually engine's oil pumps have three lobes) Hope my comment be useful, subscribed and waiting for the updates of the build
The irony water is not hydraulic fluid... I know what that Means, but historically, all the hydraulics started with water works, and basic physics of hydraulics were explored on water...
motor oil has a detergent, soap, in it to help keep the inside of a engine clean. the detergent is what is causing the oil to retain the air. circulating oil, another type of hydraulic oil, is a non detergent allowing it to release the air.
You are almost there. If you can find information on an automotive oil pump. Buick 67 to 1976 or land rover 70 to 90 something (it was a buick design too. The pump is pretty much yours but the inlet and outlet is different. It pulls and pushes oil perpendicular to the gears and uses large tooth spur gears. I think your gears are poor shape to push oil. If you see those gears they are much rounder. You need much fewer teeth because you need the volume between the teeth to move fluid. Those pumps are good for 100 PSI.
Instead of using o-rings, use thread tape aka ptfe or plumbers tape, we use it for compressed air tools and a good helping of plumbers tape will hold 200 psi minimum air Before it is said the reason it's called plumbers tape is because plumbers use it for water as well.
I really like that you try stuff with printed pumps, I'm also designing a (multistage)pump for 3d printing. But with the view of an engineer dedicated to water pumps for about 14 years, you really do not know how to operate such devices properly. a waste of material and print time, but I enjoy your content anyway^^ just read a bit about what you can and can't do with non-self-priming pumps and you will find out how to build one that is self-priming.
I think you should have an closed valve in the compressor to build up a certain amount of pressure as it will be reached the closed compressor which sucks air into the compressor room it'll opens up by the pressure and you get a vaccum and it will suck instantly with power. How? I do not know but something in that direction. Vaccum and pressure to build sucktion. Imagine to drain a tank of its gasoline by a tube, suck the tube til its close to the end of the tube and release, build up pressure in the mouth and the vaccum follows
Hi, thnx for explaining everything in details. But again Iwant to ask you 1 Question, about its revars mechanism?? Who its pull the piston rod back to its starting position ?? As much as I understood,when the fluid enter in the barrel, then due to fluid pressure the piston moves forward. But my question/my intereste about its backward process. Hope I must get my answer with a great explanation and in simple words. Thnx in advance.
It is sucking in air and leaking out fluid. The sealing strategy needs improvement, probably the face of the clear window. This is a positive displacement pump, so if it is properly sealed, it will not need priming.
Rather than trying to seal the pump from leaks and having to manually prime the pump, would it be an idea to build a submerged pump? No air in and around the pump means no air/oil mixing, and you can just focus on building pressure.
Great video! Have you done tests on the pump to see what it's capable of? i.e. flow rate: Liters/Gallons per minute, Fluid Pressure generated.. Thank you - great work!
The cylinder needs to be higher then the pump, that way there would always be fluid in the pump to prime it. I think this would work quite well otherwise.
Hey cool Video about a 3d printed Pump. If you want to improve your design you could probably use less and bigger teeth, like a roots pump, to improve the flowrate. And if the pump should build up pressure, for using a h. cylinder, you could seal off the tip of each teeth with graphite or rubber, but rubber should not last long in dry usage. You can see a lot of different designs for Wankel engines, maybe you find something already existing what fit's your purpose. Have a good one 🙂
Are you sure, that the orings have some effect of the tightness of your pump?? If you want to use orings, you have to model a profile for them or just use teflontape instead, #
![Cody Johnson - I'm Gonna Love You (with Carrie Underwood) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yy9PuYMU29g/mqdefault.jpg)
Try reducing the number of teeth on the gears. High performance oil pumps tend to have straight cut gears with only 3 lobes/teeth. This way you could move more volume of liquid at lower rpm which would lead to less bubbles
That would be a roots blower
Less teeth means more impact damage?
@@acaalertor1945 Those blowers are also used in vacuum trucks to create powerful suction
Yes you are right brother 😊andras dio
Roots blowers and those with very few teeth have external synchronising gears.
Helical gears can be used but you have to make allowance for the liquid trapped between the meshing teeth that is forced axially along the meshing gears.
Water is a perfectly good hydraulic fluid. The only reason not to use water are if it will corrode steel components, freeze, or provide insufficient lubrication.
Of course yes, the specific heigh of water makes it the perfect hydraulic fluid. The fundamental problem with water is erosion and rust. But since most are plastic, it is not a problem, in fact, a good option.
Heat from pressure will also make water into a steam bomb. Steam is very powerful. Makes things look like shredded tin cans.
Not really. Water is a horrible hydraulic fluid/lubricant, it has very little to do with corrosion (although, yes it will corrode metals, not just steel). All the water would be doing in a pump would be removing the heat from any friction between moving surfaces (thus why it’s working in his pump, and most industrial vacuum pumps use water in the same way, by utilizing it to remove the heat generated from any friction, not to actually lubricate.) Water on the suction side can evaporate thus introducing gas in a sealed system which does compress and will cause issues (think about bleeding your brakes on your car, you do it do remove any gases in the system, if you used water, you would constantly have gas in the brake system). You’d have to have a ton of pressure and heat while compressing water to turn it into steam. Pressurized steam isn’t produced by pumping water at high pressure but by heating it in a contained environment. the chances of creating any pressured steam from pumping water to the point you’d have an explosion is slimmer then you winning the mega millions jackpot lottery. Steam explosions are also typically caused by a steam trap not functioning correctly and allowing water to build up in a low spot of the line, and then you’ll get water hammer but at what ever pressure the system is at, and it breaks stuff. Think of any water hammer you may have noticed when you shut off your faucet quickly, that’s typically between 25-50psi, imagine that at 600-1200psi plus, at the very least you’ll blow gaskets out of the line it happens to, been there and fixed that. (Bad thing is most production engineers will just wonder why the gaskets failed and solely be looking into the life span or heat cycle life of them, and you have to actually show them there’s a bad steam trap up stream for them to believe you, or if you don’t it just happens again and again)
@@marv8481 im not a geek in this, but why we should deal with steam when the water is under stress
Have you heard of stainless steel
If you want a "cheaper" hydraulic fluid, you can use any cheap Automatic Transmission Fluid, thinner than motor oil but thicker than brake fluid.
"baby oil"...much cheaper and it's plain old mineral oil
Hydraulic oil is the cheapest oil you can buy here
@@ferguson20diesel49 Yeah same here, if anything its usually about the same price until you get into the bulk sizes, unless your looking at the lambo spec ATF fluids
Hi, you can add check valve in inlet to prevent water moving back to bucket so you don't need to prime it everytime. The downside is you can't moving water in reverse
i actually designed a resin 3d printed check valve. it held 120 psi of air without exploding. i used siraya tech blue. i wouldn't recommend some fragile cheap resin.
but I like the idea of adding one to his water bump.
For any hydraulic system, it’s really important to bleed any air out of the lines and cylinders so that those bubbles don’t degrade the performance of the pump; it also reduces backlash and springiness in the system
Also like other comments mentioned, most pumps aren’t self starting, so starting them fully primed should help a lot
I'm going to print one for sure, thanks for sharing your files! I must mention that plastic gear pumps usually are not self-priming, (and should not be run dry) while diaphragm pumps are self-priming, meaning they can get rid of the air in the system and then transfer whatever liquid through the piping, designing a diaphragm pump for 3D printing is a challenging task.
Those aren't self-priming pumps. Most systems require bleeding air out first for full performance, much like a car.
Correct. A self priming pump uses a diaphragm to create suction on one side and pressure on the other. Requiring only the flow of air to get the fluid moving. Sometimes called chugger pumps but often just diaphragm pumps. However: many of the lines in your car use vacuum generated by the engine to pull on feed lines until a pump can engage the fluid.
From I have heard from a guy whose job it is to study this kind of stuff, told me that even the supper expensive pumps can only suck like 2 ft. or 60 cm.
Exactly - water pumps mostly need to be filled with water first.
Really like these videos about pumps, hoping there will be a part 2 of the multi stage waterpump
me too.
I'd really like to see how it does if the pump is primed! I think it'd do fairly well. There aren't many self starting pumps out there, and most pumps can't be run dry as they use the fluid to cool them. Air in a pump dramatically reduces its power, at least the water was able to push the air through, but if it were in a closed loop, it may come into some issues because loads of microbubbles would form like in the oil.
The leaky pumps were funny at first, in these videos, but now it's driving me nuts. LOL. I love the videos, but I really want to see him fix the leaks.
A chamber can be created for priming without affecting the design of the pump. A simple screw for the opening, the air affects the performance of the piston.
He could have at least put a foot valve on the suction 😩😩
Nice project! :)
Maybe orings on top and bottom caps help. Also with hydrochloric action you want to increase the pressure so bigger discharge port might help.
Thanks again for the great video 🌹
The forbidden caffe latte tho! 6:38
I came here to mention that I was craving a Venti Vanilla Latte
You know what really grinds my gears?
Enormously talented content creators, who don't know about proper gear spacing
Edit: also, ATF, (transmission fluid) and check valves might help. I wonder how well a tesla valve would work?
*The philosophy of the rich and the poor is this: the rich invest their money and spend what is left. The poor spend their money and invest what is left"*
The rich stay rich by spending like the poor and investing without stopping then the poor stay poor by spending like the rich yet not investing like the rich
I invested in both gold and crypto but the crypto is more profitable
Investing in cryptocurrency is one of the best chance of making money 💸
Stocks are good, crypto is better
I wanted to trade crypto but got confused by the fluctuations in price
an intelligent hydraulic system
Shut up 5 min crafts you are just a bunch of useless "hacks"
@@r.vishal9750 I gg4 8
I need one number motor pumb pls give me purchase link thank you
Design your prints w/ the threads cut into the plastic. After printing, you can easily use the correct tap to clean-up the threads.
There should also be a gasket between the housing and faceplate.
I normally use a screw tap to thread the holes for the inserts beforehand. Works pretty well for me.
“The pump that built this channel…” Hahah. Great job-I love seeing what interesting and creative things you come up with!
This is a good video. I think if you would experiment with straight gears instead of curved gears you might have a better suction and discharge. Prime example look at Bowie Pumps. They have straight gears for their impellers.
Just a thought.
using straight cut gears and shorter gears will improve performance. The gears are pushing on the sides of the casings because angled gear teeth want to push each other away like a screw thread.
Very good video, an observation that I can give you is that hydraulic gear pumps are generally slower, with fewer teeth per gear, greater space between teeth and the cavity that contains them is normally submerged within the hydraulic fluid to handle large volumes and are not reversible, the change of direction in the fluid is carried out by a sliding valve.
I hope it works and good luck.
Its a good thing you use the same motor again and again, like that we can compare more easily
The liquid used in a hydraulic system is a hydraulic fluid. Water is a hydraulic fluid if used for that purpose.
Oil may just be more preferable since it also lubricates and don't corrode the equipment.
For sealing, graphite strings can be quite good to reduce frictions , as an alternative to orings.
Your getting much better with presentation! Also you are getting pretty good with adding a bit of humour too! 👍✌️
you should put a little screw in the side of the pump, so when you wanna bleed all the air out of the pump you can just fill it up with water from that screw hole or just dump in water from the inlet until it comes out that hole, it would also probably help a lot when you decide to use it for its actual purpose with hydraulic fluid.
I think it might work better if the pump was sealed better and air was completely removed from the system. I’ve seen this on bigger hydrostatic systems. Also the cylinder should be actuated by valves and the pump should only run in one direction. It’s all in good fun though! I love it!
Its a kind of vedio that l have been desperately searching since long..... Quite informative.... Doubt clearing... Thank you so much....
Love from Kerala, India...
It's lovely!! The problem of leaks can be fixed with grease and polytetrafluoroethylene or glue. The latter is machinable.
I'm not sure if it's what's causing your problem but you should be using straight cut gears for a gear pump. It may fix some of your problems.
You can fill up the pump with fluid. No pump can run dry efficiently. So if you start by filling it it will get rid of air bubbles. also use a one way vluve to the input of your pump so fluid can't get out when the pump is stopped.
Would a gear pump work the other way, converting the flow of water to rotation?
Try putting gasket maker around the outside of thr top that or an oring to stop the leak and may allow for better pull and push of the fluid because there won't be leaks where you are loosing suction power
Mech engineer here who worked with gear pumps. You want straight cut gears, not helical. Better sealing and also it removes the thrust loads. You need to feed the inlet better. They must be flooded in order to work properly. Usually you have a shaft that comes out and not the motor shaft going into the pump. The idlers generally just rides on a pin with bushings, not bearings. It was a good first attempt but there are ways to improve on the design.
That's right. A good little gear oil pump i and few others in the waste veg oil for vehicles use is a brass gears and straight gears. Its all over ebay etc must been a good little popular design. I took it apart pretty basic and a bush as you stated. I'm no engineer but its interesting id like be able make one but bit past me with the basic tools i got in my shed. Its a good little solid pump, i know ppl have pumped 1000's ltr wvo years it's intermittent and reversible and a thermal cut out so its fool proof and 12-24v so its good for home use little jobs everywhere water, oil, engine oil etc,. i wish someone would design one for 80-100 psi and slow about 10-14 ltrs minute for centrifuge as they are way expensive and harder to find.
@jaffasoft8976 for your application I would recommend a sliding vane pump. Gear pumps are usually for high pressure and low flow applications or for precision metering. I believe diesel transfer pumps would be what you are looking for.
It was not 100% necessary to CNC those acrylic parts, you could have 3D printed a template and routed and drilled the acrylic, although the CNC service's quality looked very good!
Maybe a non return valve will help as the pump will be always primed.
Great video and build! I had always discounted using resin parts as when I first got a resin printer the resin parts were very brittle but I see advertisments for ABS like strengths of some resins so I may start using some resin parts in the future.
Nice work...transperant glass makes it interesting to see...plastic deforming is seen live...tats awsome
2 rules for pumps.
1. Always position the pump at the bottom of the reservoir.
2. Never run the pump dry, it will burn out or wear out the bearings, so always prime the pump first.
You could have the pump above the reservoir if you use check valve on the outlet of the pump and prime the system(get the fluid into the pump).
So far so good attempts, my respects
You can use some engine joint former for the leaks, check the kind that can handle oils and fuel.
Also, the gear tooth design is provoking the emulsion of the oil with the air that gets into the pump housing, you can either lower the rpms or maybe make a more globular design (usually engine's oil pumps have three lobes)
Hope my comment be useful, subscribed and waiting for the updates of the build
I have a food safe version of this I didn't realize its an external gear pump. Those coldelite carpigiani gelato/ice cream pumps.
A water pump needs a gasket to build pressure. If you just block it with acrylic, it won't build up much pressure and the pressure will leak out.
The irony water is not hydraulic fluid...
I know what that Means, but historically, all the hydraulics started with water works, and basic physics of hydraulics were explored on water...
motor oil has a detergent, soap, in it to help keep the inside of a engine clean. the detergent is what is causing the oil to retain the air. circulating oil, another type of hydraulic oil, is a non detergent allowing it to release the air.
This channel needs more love
Maybe a herringbone gear setup to keep gears from binding?
Air infused oil may be a fascinating medium, for shock absorption say.
You have to admit, this would make a GREAT carburetor for a motorcycle...maybe I just gave you a new idea ;)
You should use thrust bearing where the plastic gear and casing will melt. It will avoid the friction
I'm all pumped up now!
I respect you for speaking English
I like these water bump videos.
You are almost there. If you can find information on an automotive oil pump. Buick 67 to 1976 or land rover 70 to 90 something (it was a buick design too. The pump is pretty much yours but the inlet and outlet is different. It pulls and pushes oil perpendicular to the gears and uses large tooth spur gears. I think your gears are poor shape to push oil. If you see those gears they are much rounder. You need much fewer teeth because you need the volume between the teeth to move fluid. Those pumps are good for 100 PSI.
Maybe spur gears works better than helical gears
Give it a try
Or Herringbone, since it is symmetrical.
u need and check valve at inlet so the liquid that is sucked dosen't flow back in container again
Cool video. Though it wasn't the intention, you managed to demonstrate the performance loss caused by air trapped in hydraulic systems.
Сделай подачу гидравлической жидкости самотёком. Тогда все будет работать. И масло используй жидкое, специально для гидравлики.
Instead of using o-rings, use thread tape aka ptfe or plumbers tape, we use it for compressed air tools and a good helping of plumbers tape will hold 200 psi minimum air
Before it is said the reason it's called plumbers tape is because plumbers use it for water as well.
5:34 got me chuckling
Another great video. Now to make it submersible
Instead of hidraulic fluid you could try LHM it's very thin like dot 4 brake fluid, it behaves like hidraulic fluid
Awesome idea. I get inspiration from your projects to work on my own ideas :).
You could use silicon for that plate insulation
Excellent. Thanks for all of your hard work!
I really like that you try stuff with printed pumps, I'm also designing a (multistage)pump for 3d printing. But with the view of an engineer dedicated to water pumps for about 14 years, you really do not know how to operate such devices properly. a waste of material and print time, but I enjoy your content anyway^^ just read a bit about what you can and can't do with non-self-priming pumps and you will find out how to build one that is self-priming.
I think some JB weld stuff will work for that I've only used it once and it did great so I think it may work. Use the gasket one for the seals.
I think you should have an closed valve in the compressor to build up a certain amount of pressure as it will be reached the closed compressor which sucks air into the compressor room it'll opens up by the pressure and you get a vaccum and it will suck instantly with power. How? I do not know but something in that direction. Vaccum and pressure to build sucktion.
Imagine to drain a tank of its gasoline by a tube, suck the tube til its close to the end of the tube and release, build up pressure in the mouth and the vaccum follows
Use check valves to always keep the pump primed
Bingo!
Hi, thnx for explaining everything in details. But again Iwant to ask you 1 Question, about its revars mechanism?? Who its pull the piston rod back to its starting position ??
As much as I understood,when the fluid enter in the barrel, then due to fluid pressure the piston moves forward. But my question/my intereste about its backward process.
Hope I must get my answer with a great explanation and in simple words.
Thnx in advance.
This thing is awesome! great work!
It is sucking in air and leaking out fluid. The sealing strategy needs improvement, probably the face of the clear window. This is a positive displacement pump, so if it is properly sealed, it will not need priming.
I couldnt hold it back when he mis spoke at the end 😂😂
You should make a gerotor pump or a piston pump next
You need to make a progressive cavity pump for decent pressure
You need a foot valve and also you need to do "PRIMING" because water is denser than the trapped air, it will never suck.
And that's how you make mayonnaise 😉. Nice video bro
I always wanted a 3D printed bump! xD
Rather than trying to seal the pump from leaks and having to manually prime the pump, would it be an idea to build a submerged pump? No air in and around the pump means no air/oil mixing, and you can just focus on building pressure.
¿Cómo armar una electrobomba?
1 la compras
2 la desarmar
3 la armas nuevamente
Que genio
Fully immerse the pump in oil it has two benefits first you will not have to help it to pump and second air will not mix with oil
This is pretty cool man!!
Partially loosen screws and put o ring maybe it could help with air bleed from the front panel
Nevermind
6:42
The forgotten espresso
You have to do priming before running the pump. Otherwise it will not pump the fluid.
Great video! Have you done tests on the pump to see what it's capable of? i.e. flow rate: Liters/Gallons per minute, Fluid Pressure generated.. Thank you - great work!
The cylinder needs to be higher then the pump, that way there would always be fluid in the pump to prime it. I think this would work quite well otherwise.
Hay que purgar el aire antes de ponerlo en marcha. si no se purga pierde fuerza y se rompen los o'rings porque trabajan secos
Its absolutely good
La bomba carece de sellos , aunque es una propuesta educativa muy valiosa para el aprendizaje.
Net positive suction head your pumps need it
Hey cool Video about a 3d printed Pump.
If you want to improve your design you could probably use less and bigger teeth, like a roots pump, to improve the flowrate. And if the pump should build up pressure, for using a h. cylinder, you could seal off the tip of each teeth with graphite or rubber, but rubber should not last long in dry usage. You can see a lot of different designs for Wankel engines, maybe you find something already existing what fit's your purpose. Have a good one 🙂
You earned a subscriber!
i love this guy lol 10:38 pump pum plum bum bum hahaha
Normally gear type can be used for semi solid subtances
6:30 Forbidden milk coffee 🤤
Good demonstration why hydraulic systems need bleeding
What about printing a water pistol?
You could build it with a pump and a nozzle.
U need to use Aluminum Gear in this Pump then it works nicely
Nice video, well done
6:39 the forbidden latte
This would be even cooler if you could just hook a dewalt drill battery to it with a vilt in switch
No "O" ring or no gasket at closer plate. Good luck with that!
Car brake fluid is more similar to the coolant in the radiator than oil.
Are you sure, that the orings have some effect of the tightness of your pump?? If you want to use orings, you have to model a profile for them or just use teflontape instead,
#