Thanks so much for the detailed work and preparation to create this masterpiece. It's truly a work of art in addition to its functionality. I'll be able to use it well into the fall. Proud owner of a late night woodworker product!
I want to do this for my pool, but I'm wondering if 120°F going back into my pool?.. I'm thinking it's way too hot. But then again my pool is roughly 25,000 gal.
@@nwkwok Make sure that you empty the entire hose when the season is over, because else legionela bacteria might grow and they can kill you. And what i do before each season is fill a bucket with water and household clorine, and pump that through the hose in a closed loop for an hour to make sure every possible bacteria is dead.
I love how he included all the mistakes he made so that we can all avoid from And learn from those! A lot of people just want to ‘look cool’ on youtube! Thanks so much for keepin it real!!!!
This panel looks very professional! Covering the inside with zinc or aluminum sheet will drastically increase efficience. I once put a 200 feet of this 1/2" black irrigation hose coiled flat on my zinc roof. During sunny days I got 5 gallons of hot waterr (close to boling point!) every 30 minutes
When I built mine, it was 4 x 8 and I used two pieces of corrugated skylight material, and I just replaced it this year because it was dirty, and I thought (from the ground, not the roof where it resides) that it had clouded. Now i think it was just dirty. Anyway, it holds up year round in Kentucky elements. I also filled any empty spaces with aluminum cans and painted everything matte black. Its the only way the pool in my yard is usable. I can't bring myself to cut the trees, and its a forest pool! This is a great video. I would buy one of these since I don't have the time and energy to build a second one.
I've done several of these panels for my pool. Best thing I've found is a lazy suzan that I put right in the middle and just uncoil the tubbing from there. As you get close to the center you can unspool some extra pull the lazy suzan out of the middle.
Cool project. When building a heater like this to heat a pool, do not focus on maximum output temperature, but instead focus on transporting as much heat energy as you can from the sun to the pool. Using two coils in parallel instead of one super long coil will decrease resistance and thereby increase the flow, you will heat up the pool faster, even if the temperature difference between input and output is only a few degrees. That is because more energy is transferred this way. Also beware that this solar heater can overheat when it is not in use and the tubes might melt, depending on the materials used.
Yup! Exactly why I did 2 separate 100 ft coils on 42"x48" pc of black plywood. I'm doing it for fall swimming. Our pool is already 82-88° IN JULY SND august. Trying to extend the kids swim season up here in maskachussetts 😂
pretty good and cheap approach, i did the same like 15 years ago using the black Gardena 1/2" plastic hoses from the microdrip system .. i bought 800 meters in 16 coils, i connected 4 flat coils in series and 4 of those strings in parallel to get a higher flow rate) on the roof of my garden hut, without any box around it. Unfortunately the wind fuzzed them up quite a bit when i had them emptied during the winter. I was thinking also of a boxed version, but never found the time to really build it .. i got stuck in thinking about which materials i should use, that i wanted to be waterproof but couldn't decide on the right material. This set of uncovered coils was bringing my water from 20 to 40 degrees in full sun in summer. Hint for creating the spiral: The trick that i found to get the flat spiral perfect and with least effort and without making a mess is: Keep the hose in its natural spiraling when it is delivered in a coil, put it onto the surface and then just pull it ring by ring into the flat spiral you desire.
All new users (or any user for that matter) of a solar heater need to be very careful when turning the heater on after it has heated up if not done in the morning. The hot water that was sitting still in the heater tubes WILL scald your hand or anybody in the pool that's near the outlet. It will be scalding hot for about 2 minutes.
Great video ! I've build something similar years ago but made one mistake. It was way too big so I couldn't handle it anymore. Eventually I had to cut it to pieces. Now, a new project similar to this is planned for the coming summer. This time much smaller individual panels that will be combined. I used garden hose (reinforced) from Gardena. After the summer you can buy these real cheap with lots of discount. It's easier to make sharp bend and it doens't fold as easy as the back tubing. With a simple microcontroller and a valve (recycled from a washing machine) you can slow down or stop the water flow when it gets late afternoon. The amount of water in the circuit will then slower get warmer and after a minute or so you can let it flow in a reservoir or so to accumulate. This worked out fine for me.
I have two suggestions about the unit itself. First, if you were to feel the back (underside) of the collector on a sunny day, I could all but guarantee that it is hotter than young love. If you insulate that with a piece of foil faced 2" EPS foam, you would retain more heat inside the chamber. Secondly, use either a high temp caulk or gasket around the perimeter of your clear sheeting by doing this--along with a top piece of trim--will seal the heat inside the chamber and keep the warping to a minimum. The recommendation of a thicker sheet by another viewer is definitely a better choice, but the best would be one layer of tempered, not coated glass. Great video. I was frustrated with you in the beginning stage. I wanted to be able to tell you how to uncoil the tubing and that laying it in from the top was really the only way to do it. Thanks again for a good watch!
NICE JOB, GOOD MAN!!! It shows being determined pays off and was fun to watch too. Good editing and not showing every split second of making this. But overall you accomplished your goal.
on my to-do. I just upcycled some double-glazing that had been replaced in a neighbours conservatory as roof and Windows for an old outhouse. This was good glass that was heading for the tip. I mention this because I'm looking to use some glass instead of acrylic on a project like yours.
@@nwkwok Thanks Nick. I was going to make the boxes from marine ply. I have a load of radiators from central heating systems - was going to spray them with black stove paint and put some in series them inside the marine ply boxes behind the upcycled glazing - don't know how effective that would be. I know from my RV days putting black cans in the front then coming home for a shower meant having stacks of super hot water - this is the UK though - we don't get too many sunny days so all systems would have to be optimally designed. The other thing I am thinking of doing is electrolysis from solar panels electricity - batteries are expensive and storing hydrogen is tricky buy currently working out a safe system at the end of my property.
The issue with cutting tall wood like that has more to do with some pieces that would warp due to improper drying or structural reasons. Half height cut works but you can also try what's known as a contractor's flip. Though I am not sure if you would have the clearance for a long piece like that.
@@whereswaldo5740 Yup…gloves are kinda scary using a table saw but to his defense, he did have a push stick not that you mentioned that) and his video was well thought out and the end result is awesome.
For my research it best video I found, must of ppl doing small size, this is excellent size, I need probably 4x of this for my pool, 800cm x 800cm x 1400 cm (deep). Thumbs up, keep doing, GOOD JOB !!!
Great job , just some thoughts , putting a few square meters of aluminium foil on the back wall will help a lot 8:57 , and I see two AC units , insteat of pumping heat into the air the heat exchangers could be modified to harvest the heat into water
To greatly improve this, you should not use a continuous coil. You really want to use a manifold for the entrance and exit with parallel small diameter tubes connecting the manifolds. This way every tube starts with water at the current pool temp... thus the greatest heat transfer rate.
Do you think I will benefit by building 3 three by 4 Solar panels or should I build one 4 by six Asking this question for 2 reasons I may have To move them according to the sun due to trees is not in the same place all day unfortunately also storage?
I gotta say you have heart and perseverance 👍 Was a bit painful to see you tackle the learning curve of coiling the tube and using the tie wraps…..I’d bet if you made another one you’d be able to pull it off in a fraction of the time
@@nwkwok I’ve made several versions over the years for my own pool and although your package is certainly preferred and a beautiful working art, I have found that just laying the coil of tube on ground is nearly as effective with zero labor
I just kept my 500' roll of tubing under some double pane used glass windows and made sure that the low emission side was facing the hose inside. Done. Puts out lots of heat, went from 78 degrees f. to 92 f. in 2 days in a 20,000 gallon pool. I can't even touch the water at the outlet, Temp outside was 88 f. But the heat output is so hot that I often put a towel over it to minimize the heat. It's like an oven.
One question - why paint the wood black inside the box? Surely that would simply mean the wood ends up absorbing solar energy. Since the bit you want to absorb as much energy as possible is the black tubing wouldn't the best thing to do be line the inside of the box with something shiny so the energy is reflected back towards the tubing.
@@nwkwok Another thought that could reduce costs even further would be to lower the panel to below the water level in the pool. Then connect the inlet end of the panel to a spigot near the the bottom of the pool. Connect the return end to a spigot just below the water level. Natural circulation due to temperature differences would then cycle the water in the right direction without the need for a pump.
@@remittanceman4685 I haven't done so personally, however while that should produce some circulation, I think it would move the water too slowly, resulting in very high temperature of what does manage to circulate, but lower overall heating of the pool due to lower absorbtion of heat in very hot water vs faster circulating (and therefore cooler) water that will absorb more.
@@bran-qt7ds It's how solar water heater systems work for houses with a 300l tank instead of a pool. To control the temperature, either have the hot water inlet discharge into a bucket with holes in. this would mix cool pool water with the hot heated water before it came into contact with human skin. Or fit a valve to the pipe from the solar panel. Once the pool gets warm enough, simply stop the flow with the valve. If the pool gets too cold open it again. I've seen systems like this working and they worked well.
Nice video. Working with this irrigation tubing can be frustrating. I've not used it for this purpose, but for actual irrigation, but you run into the same problem (kinks especially as you try to unfurl from a large roll). A good approach is to unfurl the whole roll across a wide open space (backyard), carefully pulling loops off the coil as you unfurl the whole thing. Then run down the length of the tubing to untwist/unfurl some "memory" from your coil. If I were doing it now, I'd use smaller lengths of tubing in the first place rather a full 500' length. Buy the 500' roll for the price, but then unfurl as described previously and cut it to more manageable sections (maybe 100'), then use common irrigation tubing couplings to attach your sections to create your desired full length. The couplings might slow down your water flow a *little* (if you use the inside-tube/barbed ones) and would make your final coil less "clean" looking, but for me those would be acceptable trade-offs for the reduced frustration of trying to work with/lay down a single 500' tubing length :)
This is great advice. After going through that debacle, I would gladly trade the 'clean' look if it saved me the frustration of dealing with that 500' length... without hesitation haha. Thanks for the input!
@@nwkwok I always leave the tubing out in the sun for about an hour before working with it. This softens it up and lets you shape it to your requirements after which it "sets" in the new shape you have laid it out. At least, this works in the Australian sun. Not sure about other climates.
I've built one of these.The easiest way to get the roll unrolled is to put the new roll in the box,THEN cut the ties that hold it together.Then you are working "with" the natural curves of the pipe and not fighting them.With my first roll i tried running it out over a distance and uncurling it as it was fed into the box.This was frustrating and i still kinked it a few times.With the next roll i did as i said before and it was done in five minutes with no kinks and no swearing:-)
Nick thank you. I am thinking on building a similar water heater for an off grid home. My goal is to have a Solar water pump and cistern that feeds in to a bathroom and kitchen then have a separate cistern that provides hot water during the day.
Great job. I just completed 80 % of 1 i am making. I didnt make it as big as my yard wont allow that. But i am going to make 2 smaller ones each with 200 hundred feet of irrigation tubing. I was surprised at how easily it kinks to. So i put it on the table next to my project and spun it out. I had to pick it up 3 times to spin it around as well. The stuff is a nightmare. But i am going to add a valve on the feed side of mine to slow the water down. This will give the water more time to absorb the suns energy and come out hotter. I am allso going to use a submersible pump. That way Its independent of the pool filter and much more cost affective. Dont put valve on return side it will pressurize the tubing and cause it to pop. Love your work shop. Are you thinking about selling these ?
Mostly followed this. Used 8 lengths of electric fence ribbon in pairs (across, vertical, and diagonals) to weave above and below each pass of pipe. It was easy, fast, cheap, and very secure.
I built something similar. Coiling it is not as easy or simple as it looks, especially if you're working alone. A big performance upgrade, is to cover the tubing in black sand. I have 150' ⅝" in a 'pile', wound into a bundle around a spindle and wrapped in 4 layers .7mil dropcloth and outer layer of 6mil clear plastic. This feeds into 150' ⅜" flat coiled on a board for quick heating. I can shower outside with it at near freezing. Heavy overcast will still yield warm water. BTW, string or wire and a staplegun, is the way to hold down the tubing; staple the end of the wire to the edge of the box, layout a coil, pull the wire over the and staple it. You can do it right off a spool - thunk-thunk-thunk all done. It also helps to have the tube filled.
Yes - we decided to go with a different pump because the water was originally coming out too slow (which is why it got so hot). Now it is ~95 degrees and comes out faster (which in turn, heats up the jacuzzi better as well).
I built one with landscape style tubing...just be sure to keep water and circulation during sun hours or you will melt it down... I also used steel studs vs. wood. Made it lighter.
nope, you need to ride the chair with the roll around the panel then. What i did was put the roll in the middle and then start to connect the pipe to the panel little by little and then just turn the roll with it.
How much difference does it make having a glass or perspex cover? I have made a similar solar heater. 50m of black irrigation hose in a box that's made of 20mm plywood and 4x2 sides. Painted it black with wood paint, then sprayed with Matt black industrial paint. Adjustable flow rate pump and a flow valve on the other end to that goes back into the pool. Currently I've double wrapped it with clear polythene sheet and sealed it with tape. It's 26°c air temp, pool was 27°c at 11:30am. It's 15:25 and the pools up at 31°C. Water going in is 38.8°c
Very cool, thanks for sharing NIck. My advice based on previous frustrations is to use UV resistant zip ties (or they will suprise you sooner than later) and to use a higher class (6 or 10) pipe. Thicker wall lasts a LOT longer in the sun and also doesn't kink and bend too easily. Your build is definitely beautiful though :)
The gloss reflects light and heat you really want the top cover to be "translucent" this way it does not reflect, I built 4 by 8 foot panels back in the 1970s and got 180 degree water.
@@daveparker839 Dave glass will reflect anybody knows in a solar water system you use translucent cover so it does not reflect rather absorb more. Translucent..difusser
I built a jacuzzi heater with old windows black paper and dirt to seal air off under old windows laying on black roofing paper. Had a old roll of the same low pressure tubing. It was all kinked up. Eventually the kinks are where the leaks will happen over time. If the water does not flow to remove heat the temp can get close enough to boiling to cause half melted softer plastic to rupture. If pump works always when hot then this problem is reduced.
How is the water flowing through the hose? Is there a pump that pumps water from the pool through hose? If so, what kind of pump did you use? Thank you
@@danieljoye2486 Hm... TBH, all of the videos I've seen of people that have done this have the hose going in through the top surface of the pool. There could be some ways to engineer something to go through the side wall if it were an above ground pool but you would need to ask someone that would know how to do that so that there's an airtight seal for the hose to go through.
Hi from Fiji. Just a small comment. Do you know how mosquito coils fit together? When making the coils, run two pipes together. Run one of the pipes an extra half circumference so that it ends up 180 degrees away ie 6 clock and 12 Oclock. On the end of each pipe put an elbow. Across the centre, use a short piece of pipe to join the two. This way the water comes in one direction and out in the other. This keeps your pipes all in the one plane, and you dont have a messy tail crossing from the centre. I suggest to start with the centre piece with the elbows facing opposite directions and clamp it down with saddles. Then start winding the two pipes together. Using saddles as you go will make the job a lot easier. You will end up with two pipes coming out of your frame. If you are careful, you can make one come out on one side on the top and the other on the bottom. This way if you angle the frame, and it is below your tank or pool, it does not need a pump.
@@nwkwok they are spmething you burn to keep mosquitos away. They are packed in pairs hence the refere nce. Bit like yin and yan- both tails cam eventually coil in the same direction.
Thanks for all the encouragement through the whole process and helping to answer all my questions! There were some moments where I had some serious doubts and was grateful for your support in the process :).
If you can keep the tubing in the sun as much as you can before you start working with it, or run some warm to hot water through the tubing really helps if flex n bend, you welcome
How to stop it from over heating my hot tub? I made one and it got my sauna (hot tub) up from 53 degrees to over 105 and the weather is still only 75 degrees outside. I can manually watch and turn the pump off when the weather gets really hot, but will the water boil in the solar collector? Should I let the water drain out of the tubes when I turn it off? Do you know an inexpensive sensor that will turn the pump off when the tub gets to a certain temperature? Thanks.
id be interested to know whether it's better to paint the frame black, or white/reflective. My thought being that if the frame is black, it's absorbing heat, but you really want the hose to be the hottest part. a reflective enclosure might help the hose absorb reflected heat/light. just a hypothesis, well done!
Very good will be my almost imm next project I wanted to know how large a 100 foot roll would be spread out and would it be enough for 7 foot Intex, but why I wrote I haven't used poly-pipe either even though I am plumber, but one vid I just saw a guy sat the coil on a swiveling office chair to uncoil it, wouldn't you know my junky outdoor office chair was literally thrown away yesterday (WTF!) anyway still watching but so far so good. I took pics of your vacuum and workbench will have to try those out someday, thanks!
Very nice...your video editing to your craftsmanship to your attention to detail. Although i dont think this would work on my 24' pool in Wisconsin, its still very nice!!
I have a 4x6 with 100lf of pex. It raises my pool temp by 4 degrees in the summer in Florida. Takes my screened pool from 82 to 86...perfect. It's on a tracker as well so constant sun!
I live in Gran Canaria and will be installing this in my Airbnb villa. This means that I myself am not on site and can monitor. I will set a timer so that the pump only circulates water when the sun is up. But as there is a lot of sun on Gran Canaria, the water will quite quickly reach over 30 degrees. Is there any gadget that can automatically turn off the power to the pump when the water is 30 degrees.
Oh -- that's a great point. Though, I'm having a hard time figuring out how I would apply silicone to it since I screwed it in from the top...? Maybe I could have used the silicon as glue as I placed it on top. Hm good to think about for the future.
Nick, thank you big time for your presentation. I was looking for solar water heater for sometime now and got it from you once again thank you with one question would you recommend to drain the PVC if its get to the freeze point?. Its hardly ever happen in Tucson, Arizona but just to be safe! what you think? thank you, so much Adam.
I think 2 panels at 250 feet each would be more efficient. Water travel 500 feet won’t be getting any hotter after a certain distance. Also the bottom should be insulated.
Yeah... probably haha. Another idea that came to my mind is cutting the irrigation tubing the length of the frame (minus an inch or two) and use 90 U-connectors. I feel like that'd be 50x faster. The U connectors might waste some space in between but you also wouldn't have to waste empty space in the middle.
Ah we didn't exist it to the existing pool pump. There is a pump in the jacuzzi that pumps water out of the jacuzzi, through the water heater and back into the jacuzzi. The water heater is just resting on top of all the pool pump stuff.
Interesting - even having a friend with me it didn't seem very easy and simple but good to hear some people are having easy experiences unrolling this stuff!
I think I would have put the acrylic in a frame with hinges instead of screwing it directly to the frame if you ever have to get inside for any reason you have to take all them screws out
Thanks so much for the detailed work and preparation to create this masterpiece. It's truly a work of art in addition to its functionality. I'll be able to use it well into the fall. Proud owner of a late night woodworker product!
So glad that y'all like it and even more glad that it works! hahah :]
I want to do this for my pool, but I'm wondering if 120°F going back into my pool?.. I'm thinking it's way too hot. But then again my pool is roughly 25,000 gal.
@@richardb4022 it barely gets my small jacuzzi above 75*, nothing to worry about! You can also turn the pump off if needed
@@nwkwok Make sure that you empty the entire hose when the season is over, because else legionela bacteria might grow and they can kill you.
And what i do before each season is fill a bucket with water and household clorine, and pump that through the hose in a closed loop for an hour
to make sure every possible bacteria is dead.
@@jimhlee how long does it take to heat the entire jacuzzi? and what is the liter capacity of the jacuzzi?
I love how he included all the mistakes he made so that we can all avoid from And learn from those! A lot of people just want to ‘look cool’ on youtube! Thanks so much for keepin it real!!!!
Thanks so much! Appreciate you takin' the time to watch and comment!
@@nwkwok Thank YOU! We are going to build one like this onnoir zinc roof!!!! :)
This panel looks very professional!
Covering the inside with zinc or aluminum sheet will drastically increase efficience.
I once put a 200 feet of this 1/2" black irrigation hose coiled flat on my zinc roof. During sunny days I got 5 gallons of hot waterr (close to boling point!) every 30 minutes
Thank you for not playing loud, annoying music drowning out your talk! I got it! Great!👍
I like that you have also videoed the problems that you faced while working it out
Very impressive. The most impressive part was how it got hooked up to pumps in the end and it all worked.
I was convinced by seeing how important friends are in your life😁 . Great job done 👌
Would've failed at this one miserably without their help!! 😅
When I built mine, it was 4 x 8 and I used two pieces of corrugated skylight material, and I just replaced it this year because it was dirty, and I thought (from the ground, not the roof where it resides) that it had clouded. Now i think it was just dirty. Anyway, it holds up year round in Kentucky elements. I also filled any empty spaces with aluminum cans and painted everything matte black. Its the only way the pool in my yard is usable. I can't bring myself to cut the trees, and its a forest pool! This is a great video. I would buy one of these since I don't have the time and energy to build a second one.
showing all your mistakes will help so many people attempting this - kudos!
Very nice video I build one and added a piece of zinc sheet beneath the hose in order to created more heat
Thanks and very clever idea!
I've done several of these panels for my pool. Best thing I've found is a lazy suzan that I put right in the middle and just uncoil the tubbing from there. As you get close to the center you can unspool some extra pull the lazy suzan out of the middle.
Video
Nice one. I love your honesty of all the mistakes.
Cool project. When building a heater like this to heat a pool, do not focus on maximum output temperature, but instead focus on transporting as much heat energy as you can from the sun to the pool.
Using two coils in parallel instead of one super long coil will decrease resistance and thereby increase the flow, you will heat up the pool faster, even if the temperature difference between input and output is only a few degrees. That is because more energy is transferred this way.
Also beware that this solar heater can overheat when it is not in use and the tubes might melt, depending on the materials used.
Yup! Exactly why I did 2 separate 100 ft coils on 42"x48" pc of black plywood. I'm doing it for fall swimming. Our pool is already 82-88° IN JULY SND august. Trying to extend the kids swim season up here in maskachussetts 😂
pretty good and cheap approach, i did the same like 15 years ago using the black Gardena 1/2" plastic hoses from the microdrip system .. i bought 800 meters in 16 coils, i connected 4 flat coils in series and 4 of those strings in parallel to get a higher flow rate) on the roof of my garden hut, without any box around it. Unfortunately the wind fuzzed them up quite a bit when i had them emptied during the winter. I was thinking also of a boxed version, but never found the time to really build it .. i got stuck in thinking about which materials i should use, that i wanted to be waterproof but couldn't decide on the right material.
This set of uncovered coils was bringing my water from 20 to 40 degrees in full sun in summer.
Hint for creating the spiral:
The trick that i found to get the flat spiral perfect and with least effort and without making a mess is: Keep the hose in its natural spiraling when it is delivered in a coil, put it onto the surface and then just pull it ring by ring into the flat spiral you desire.
All new users (or any user for that matter) of a solar heater need to be very careful when turning the heater on after it has heated up if not done in the morning. The hot water that was sitting still in the heater tubes WILL scald your hand or anybody in the pool that's near the outlet. It will be scalding hot for about 2 minutes.
Great video ! I've build something similar years ago but made one mistake. It was way too big so I couldn't handle it anymore. Eventually I had to cut it to pieces. Now, a new project similar to this is planned for the coming summer. This time much smaller individual panels that will be combined. I used garden hose (reinforced) from Gardena. After the summer you can buy these real cheap with lots of discount. It's easier to make sharp bend and it doens't fold as easy as the back tubing. With a simple microcontroller and a valve (recycled from a washing machine) you can slow down or stop the water flow when it gets late afternoon. The amount of water in the circuit will then slower get warmer and after a minute or so you can let it flow in a reservoir or so to accumulate. This worked out fine for me.
Please do a video if you do this!
I have two suggestions about the unit itself.
First, if you were to feel the back (underside) of the collector on a sunny day, I could all but guarantee that it is hotter than young love. If you insulate that with a piece of foil faced 2" EPS foam, you would retain more heat inside the chamber.
Secondly, use either a high temp caulk or gasket around the perimeter of your clear sheeting by doing this--along with a top piece of trim--will seal the heat inside the chamber and keep the warping to a minimum.
The recommendation of a thicker sheet by another viewer is definitely a better choice, but the best would be one layer of tempered, not coated glass.
Great video. I was frustrated with you in the beginning stage. I wanted to be able to tell you how to uncoil the tubing and that laying it in from the top was really the only way to do it.
Thanks again for a good watch!
Love it. I’m building one myself as a preheated to a solar powered electric on demand heater
Nice!! Good luck with your build!
NICE JOB, GOOD MAN!!! It shows being determined pays off and was fun to watch too. Good editing and not showing every split second of making this. But overall you accomplished your goal.
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed :)
Great job and nicely edited video. Also, love your workshop!
on my to-do. I just upcycled some double-glazing that had been replaced in a neighbours conservatory as roof and Windows for an old outhouse. This was good glass that was heading for the tip. I mention this because I'm looking to use some glass instead of acrylic on a project like yours.
Nice!! Have fun when you get around to this. It's a very fun project :)
@@nwkwok Thanks Nick. I was going to make the boxes from marine ply. I have a load of radiators from central heating systems - was going to spray them with black stove paint and put some in series them inside the marine ply boxes behind the upcycled glazing - don't know how effective that would be. I know from my RV days putting black cans in the front then coming home for a shower meant having stacks of super hot water - this is the UK though - we don't get too many sunny days so all systems would have to be optimally designed. The other thing I am thinking of doing is electrolysis from solar panels electricity - batteries are expensive and storing hydrogen is tricky buy currently working out a safe system at the end of my property.
good job on the water heater. Please put a riving knife on your table saw and never push your hand/fingers past the blade, use a push-stick
Thank you - didn’t realize how dangerous my technique was till all the comments. Appreciate it!
I'm guilty of this with some awkward cuts. Always gets me sweating.
And those gloves. 😬 Yikes!
They can suck you in.
The issue with cutting tall wood like that has more to do with some pieces that would warp due to improper drying or structural reasons. Half height cut works but you can also try what's known as a contractor's flip. Though I am not sure if you would have the clearance for a long piece like that.
@@whereswaldo5740
Yup…gloves are kinda scary using a table saw but to his defense, he did have a push stick not that you mentioned that) and his video was well thought out and the end result is awesome.
For my research it best video I found, must of ppl doing small size, this is excellent size, I need probably 4x of this for my pool, 800cm x 800cm x 1400 cm (deep). Thumbs up, keep doing, GOOD JOB !!!
Thanks so much :)
Great job , just some thoughts , putting a few square meters of aluminium foil on the back wall will help a lot 8:57 , and I see two AC units , insteat of pumping heat into the air the heat exchangers could be modified to harvest the heat into water
Wow Nick very good job for a first time, I hope you found a new business with this.
thanks so much!
Amazing work, as if you are building a piece of art, result also is great.
Thank you so much! :]
To greatly improve this, you should not use a continuous coil. You really want to use a manifold for the entrance and exit with parallel small diameter tubes connecting the manifolds. This way every tube starts with water at the current pool temp... thus the greatest heat transfer rate.
I think that makes sense? Good explanation. I never thought of that.
Do you think I will benefit by building 3 three by 4 Solar panels or should I build one 4 by six Asking this question for 2 reasons I may have To move them according to the sun due to trees is not in the same place all day unfortunately also storage?
Please share this out to the Is builder who did a good job
Also had another about a 7 ft long in a shallow three-quarter inch is this affecting the heat coming in and out
I gotta say you have heart and perseverance 👍 Was a bit painful to see you tackle the learning curve of coiling the tube and using the tie wraps…..I’d bet if you made another one you’d be able to pull it off in a fraction of the time
Thanks so much. If I were to do it again, I definitely have some different design ideas with the tubing for sure. Those zip ties were painful ;p
@@nwkwok I’ve made several versions over the years for my own pool and although your package is certainly preferred and a beautiful working art, I have found that just laying the coil of tube on ground is nearly as effective with zero labor
Well done my guy! Need to warm a pool tho...
I just kept my 500' roll of tubing under some double pane used glass windows and made sure that the low emission side was facing the hose inside. Done. Puts out lots of heat, went from 78 degrees f. to 92 f. in 2 days in a 20,000 gallon pool. I can't even touch the water at the outlet, Temp outside was 88 f. But the heat output is so hot that I often put a towel over it to minimize the heat. It's like an oven.
Awesome! Well done :)
Are you saying you basically use a box the size of the roll with a glass top? I want to make one myself but I like simplicity
One question - why paint the wood black inside the box?
Surely that would simply mean the wood ends up absorbing solar energy. Since the bit you want to absorb as much energy as possible is the black tubing wouldn't the best thing to do be line the inside of the box with something shiny so the energy is reflected back towards the tubing.
Yeah... that's a good point. Several people have pointed out that painting it white would have been better haha.
@@nwkwok White would work too, though I suspect shiny might be better.
@@nwkwok Another thought that could reduce costs even further would be to lower the panel to below the water level in the pool. Then connect the inlet end of the panel to a spigot near the the bottom of the pool. Connect the return end to a spigot just below the water level. Natural circulation due to temperature differences would then cycle the water in the right direction without the need for a pump.
@@remittanceman4685 I haven't done so personally, however while that should produce some circulation, I think it would move the water too slowly, resulting in very high temperature of what does manage to circulate, but lower overall heating of the pool due to lower absorbtion of heat in very hot water vs faster circulating (and therefore cooler) water that will absorb more.
@@bran-qt7ds It's how solar water heater systems work for houses with a 300l tank instead of a pool.
To control the temperature, either have the hot water inlet discharge into a bucket with holes in. this would mix cool pool water with the hot heated water before it came into contact with human skin.
Or fit a valve to the pipe from the solar panel. Once the pool gets warm enough, simply stop the flow with the valve. If the pool gets too cold open it again.
I've seen systems like this working and they worked well.
Nice video. Working with this irrigation tubing can be frustrating. I've not used it for this purpose, but for actual irrigation, but you run into the same problem (kinks especially as you try to unfurl from a large roll). A good approach is to unfurl the whole roll across a wide open space (backyard), carefully pulling loops off the coil as you unfurl the whole thing. Then run down the length of the tubing to untwist/unfurl some "memory" from your coil. If I were doing it now, I'd use smaller lengths of tubing in the first place rather a full 500' length. Buy the 500' roll for the price, but then unfurl as described previously and cut it to more manageable sections (maybe 100'), then use common irrigation tubing couplings to attach your sections to create your desired full length. The couplings might slow down your water flow a *little* (if you use the inside-tube/barbed ones) and would make your final coil less "clean" looking, but for me those would be acceptable trade-offs for the reduced frustration of trying to work with/lay down a single 500' tubing length :)
This is great advice. After going through that debacle, I would gladly trade the 'clean' look if it saved me the frustration of dealing with that 500' length... without hesitation haha. Thanks for the input!
@@nwkwok I always leave the tubing out in the sun for about an hour before working with it. This softens it up and lets you shape it to your requirements after which it "sets" in the new shape you have laid it out.
At least, this works in the Australian sun. Not sure about other climates.
@@lukedudney4462 Ah yes - good advice. That might've made the job much easier since we were coiling the tubing in the cold of night... 🤦🏻♂️
I've built one of these.The easiest way to get the roll unrolled is to put the new roll in the box,THEN cut the ties that hold it together.Then you are working "with" the natural curves of the pipe and not fighting them.With my first roll i tried running it out over a distance and uncurling it as it was fed into the box.This was frustrating and i still kinked it a few times.With the next roll i did as i said before and it was done in five minutes with no kinks and no swearing:-)
Thanks. Nice job with the heater and the video.
Nick thank you. I am thinking on building a similar water heater for an off grid home. My goal is to have a Solar water pump and cistern that feeds in to a bathroom and kitchen then have a separate cistern that provides hot water during the day.
just got a place in Turkey with a pool so going to do this thanks
Awesome!
Hi, probably, you should have tried to tie the pipe only on the bottom and the to add the frames, Anyway thank you sharing it and experience you got.
Silicon tube is flexible. A sheet of aluminium painted black is even better. And a layer of insulation allround is no great problem.
This is going to be my next DIY project. Wish me luck!!
Woo!! You got this! Good luck :)
Great job. I just completed 80 % of 1 i am making. I didnt make it as big as my yard wont allow that. But i am going to make 2 smaller ones each with 200 hundred feet of irrigation tubing. I was surprised at how easily it kinks to. So i put it on the table next to my project and spun it out. I had to pick it up 3 times to spin it around as well. The stuff is a nightmare. But i am going to add a valve on the feed side of mine to slow the water down. This will give the water more time to absorb the suns energy and come out hotter. I am allso going to use a submersible pump. That way Its independent of the pool filter and much more cost affective. Dont put valve on return side it will pressurize the tubing and cause it to pop. Love your work shop. Are you thinking about selling these ?
How did it turn out!?
Henry. Can you tell me more about your pump. Are you going to put it directly into the pool.
Add a reflective vertical panel on the wall over the heater and get 60% more heat in the water.
Mostly followed this. Used 8 lengths of electric fence ribbon in pairs (across, vertical, and diagonals) to weave above and below each pass of pipe. It was easy, fast, cheap, and very secure.
Brilliant
Nice work
Wondering if the acrylic has melted or warped over time?? Since it was so thin and it gets sooo hot?
Pretty cool. Wonder what would happen if it was lined mylar and used clear tubing.
Wow that came out amazing
Thanks!!
I built something similar. Coiling it is not as easy or simple as it looks, especially if you're working alone. A big performance upgrade, is to cover the tubing in black sand.
I have 150' ⅝" in a 'pile', wound into a bundle around a spindle and wrapped in 4 layers .7mil dropcloth and outer layer of 6mil clear plastic. This feeds into 150' ⅜" flat coiled on a board for quick heating. I can shower outside with it at near freezing. Heavy overcast will still yield warm water.
BTW, string or wire and a staplegun, is the way to hold down the tubing; staple the end of the wire to the edge of the box, layout a coil, pull the wire over the and staple it. You can do it right off a spool - thunk-thunk-thunk all done. It also helps to have the tube filled.
Great work, dude! Thanks for Sharon this with the world.
120⁰F might do some damage on the irrigation tube. Yes?
Yes - we decided to go with a different pump because the water was originally coming out too slow (which is why it got so hot). Now it is ~95 degrees and comes out faster (which in turn, heats up the jacuzzi better as well).
I built one with landscape style tubing...just be sure to keep water and circulation during sun hours or you will melt it down...
I also used steel studs vs. wood. Made it lighter.
Ah good point. Thanks for the tip!
Put the roll of tubing on an office chair. The chair will spin and unroll the tubing as you pull it.
nope, you need to ride the chair with the roll around the panel then. What i did was put the roll in the middle and then start to connect the pipe to the panel little by little
and then just turn the roll with it.
How much difference does it make having a glass or perspex cover? I have made a similar solar heater. 50m of black irrigation hose in a box that's made of 20mm plywood and 4x2 sides. Painted it black with wood paint, then sprayed with Matt black industrial paint. Adjustable flow rate pump and a flow valve on the other end to that goes back into the pool. Currently I've double wrapped it with clear polythene sheet and sealed it with tape. It's 26°c air temp, pool was 27°c at 11:30am. It's 15:25 and the pools up at 31°C. Water going in is 38.8°c
Great video. Only suggestion, spray a UV coat on all the plastics to stop deteriorating of the plastics by the sun.
Very beautiful mate !!
Thanks!
That’s what I like about doing projects, it’s learning from your mistakes. I now know what not to do 😂👍👍
Very cool, thanks for sharing NIck.
My advice based on previous frustrations is to use UV resistant zip ties (or they will suprise you sooner than later) and to use a higher class (6 or 10) pipe. Thicker wall lasts a LOT longer in the sun and also doesn't kink and bend too easily.
Your build is definitely beautiful though :)
Thanks so much! The zip ties are UV resistant and good advice on the pipe. Didn’t realize there was a higher class for it!
i love this, i wonder if the acrylic would get fuzzy over time from uv light overtime. at least acrylic is cheaper than glass
Is there anyway you could build this and connect it to your pool pump and equipment? So that you don’t have hoses all along your pool deck?
The gloss reflects light and heat you really want the top cover to be "translucent" this way it does not reflect, I built 4 by 8 foot panels back in the 1970s and got 180 degree water.
Ah good point!
@Brent Simmons Are you suggesting he use glass? The plastic is translucent. What could he have used instead?
@@daveparker839 Dave glass will reflect anybody knows in a solar water system you use translucent cover so it does not reflect rather absorb more. Translucent..difusser
I built a jacuzzi heater with old windows black paper and dirt to seal air off under old windows laying on black roofing paper.
Had a old roll of the same low pressure tubing. It was all kinked up. Eventually the kinks are where the leaks will happen over time.
If the water does not flow to remove heat the temp can get close enough to boiling to cause half melted softer plastic to rupture.
If pump works always when hot then this problem is reduced.
That’s bad ass dude good job
thanks bro!
How is the water flowing through the hose? Is there a pump that pumps water from the pool through hose? If so, what kind of pump did you use? Thank you
Good Job
Thanks!
Definitely gained a sub with this video. Great Work!!!!
Thanks so much!!
@@nwkwok if I did this for a pool how would I get the return to go through the built in inlet on the sidewall of the pool?
@@danieljoye2486 Hm... TBH, all of the videos I've seen of people that have done this have the hose going in through the top surface of the pool. There could be some ways to engineer something to go through the side wall if it were an above ground pool but you would need to ask someone that would know how to do that so that there's an airtight seal for the hose to go through.
Please do another one like this but heating up a pool. Also I want to see the results in winter.
Ohhh! Good suggestion! I'll definitely consider this if I build this project for another different person!
Definitely do one for a pool. Also, appears to have a lot of demand for a diy pool heater on RUclips
Hi from Fiji.
Just a small comment. Do you know how mosquito coils fit together?
When making the coils, run two pipes together. Run one of the pipes an extra half circumference so that it ends up 180 degrees away ie 6 clock and 12 Oclock. On the end of each pipe put an elbow.
Across the centre, use a short piece of pipe to join the two. This way the water comes in one direction and out in the other. This keeps your pipes all in the one plane, and you dont have a messy tail crossing from the centre.
I suggest to start with the centre piece with the elbows facing opposite directions and clamp it down with saddles.
Then start winding the two pipes together. Using saddles as you go will make the job a lot easier. You will end up with two pipes coming out of your frame. If you are careful, you can make one come out on one side on the top and the other on the bottom. This way if you angle the frame, and it is below your tank or pool, it does not need a pump.
Haven't heard of mosquito coils before thanks for the tip!
@@nwkwok they are spmething you burn to keep mosquitos away.
They are packed in pairs hence the refere nce. Bit like yin and yan- both tails cam eventually coil in the same direction.
I built three of them about 14 years ago for an inside swimming pool
Make a double greenhouse effect. So put it into another glass enclosure and it might get even hotter.
Awesome work there Nick! Subscribed now my friend 😀
Thanks for all the encouragement through the whole process and helping to answer all my questions! There were some moments where I had some serious doubts and was grateful for your support in the process :).
more expensive but glass is much better for trapping the IR inside, also use insulation on the bottom and sides ?
Mounted right above the exhaust vent of the Pentair gas heater ?
If you can keep the tubing in the sun as much as you can before you start working with it, or run some warm to hot water through the tubing really helps if flex n bend, you welcome
How to stop it from over heating my hot tub? I made one and it got my sauna (hot tub) up from 53 degrees to over 105 and the weather is still only 75 degrees outside. I can manually watch and turn the pump off when the weather gets really hot, but will the water boil in the solar collector? Should I let the water drain out of the tubes when I turn it off? Do you know an inexpensive sensor that will turn the pump off when the tub gets to a certain temperature? Thanks.
I built this almost exact unit as a pool heater with my dad in 1980. We used copper pipes.
I coiled 1000ft on my roof on a 15 minute timer, 1/2 poly pipe . 140 degrees for 15 minutes, then off for 15
Nice! I’ll have to learn your ways ;p
id be interested to know whether it's better to paint the frame black, or white/reflective. My thought being that if the frame is black, it's absorbing heat, but you really want the hose to be the hottest part. a reflective enclosure might help the hose absorb reflected heat/light. just a hypothesis, well done!
Yeah it’s a good question. A few comments suggested the reflected light is better but not totally sure.
Would a black garden hose not be easier to use? I suppose it would break down faster... but easier to work with?
I’d imagine much more expensive
Very good will be my almost imm next project I wanted to know how large a 100 foot roll would be spread out and would it be enough for 7 foot Intex, but why I wrote I haven't used poly-pipe either even though I am plumber, but one vid I just saw a guy sat the coil on a swiveling office chair to uncoil it, wouldn't you know my junky outdoor office chair was literally thrown away yesterday (WTF!) anyway still watching but so far so good. I took pics of your vacuum and workbench will have to try those out someday, thanks!
Very nice...your video editing to your craftsmanship to your attention to detail. Although i dont think this would work on my 24' pool in Wisconsin, its still very nice!!
I have a 4x6 with 100lf of pex. It raises my pool temp by 4 degrees in the summer in Florida. Takes my screened pool from 82 to 86...perfect.
It's on a tracker as well so constant sun!
@@richpalmisano1740 how does a tracker work? Always points to the sun?
@@SteveV2023 yes. Two axis although that's overkill honestly. Only need east west. Pretty simple build for a single panel.
@@richpalmisano1740 what does something like that cost?
@@SteveV2023 controller and actuators about $350...I have about 700 in my heater all total
Is it still working OK? Has the acrylic degraded? Does rain run off?
Parallel runs, a sealed and insulated reservoir. That will optimize your result.
I enjoy working at night too.
Nice!
if there is a 2" hose going into your pool return. is it wise to use a 2 " hose for the solar panel? would a smaller hose slow down the return amount
I live in Gran Canaria and will be installing this in my Airbnb villa. This means that I myself am not on site and can monitor. I will set a timer so that the pump only circulates water when the sun is up. But as there is a lot of sun on Gran Canaria, the water will quite quickly reach over 30 degrees. Is there any gadget that can automatically turn off the power to the pump when the water is 30 degrees.
Is everyone using 1/2”tubing? Thoughts on 1/4”? And any recommendations on a pump?
how did it trun out ? its plastic piping, is it still holding up ?
Hello i want to do a pook heather like you .i just dont know where each ends go too ? And what items i need to buy? Howes, wood...? What else .Thanks
as its been 3 years, how long did this last before the tubes broke down by UV?
You need to put silicone under the perimeter of the plastic. Valuable heat is escaping through the air gaps.
Oh -- that's a great point. Though, I'm having a hard time figuring out how I would apply silicone to it since I screwed it in from the top...? Maybe I could have used the silicon as glue as I placed it on top. Hm good to think about for the future.
@@nwkwok Unscrew the screws, remove the plastic, apply a thick bead of silicone, and then replace the plastic cover. Shouldn't be a problem.
good job. but what is the pool water temp. after one day of running the heater for a day
Thank you!
Nick, thank you big time for your presentation. I was looking for solar water heater for sometime now and got it from you once again thank you with one question would you recommend to drain the PVC if its get to the freeze point?. Its hardly ever happen in Tucson, Arizona but just to be safe! what you think? thank you, so much Adam.
Oof… as a Californian I feel ill-equipped to answer this ;p.
I think 2 panels at 250 feet each would be more efficient. Water travel 500 feet won’t be getting any hotter after a certain distance. Also the bottom should be insulated.
Hm that's a good point. And yeah definitely should've thought about insulting the bottom
Nice work next time hang the pipe on a rotating jig so the pipe uncoils as you use it. It will make it easier too handle
Thanks for the suggestion!
i wonder if 2 circular sections of tubing would be 1000x easier to lay out? you waste some area with both but man that seems like one Hercules tasks!
Yeah... probably haha. Another idea that came to my mind is cutting the irrigation tubing the length of the frame (minus an inch or two) and use 90 U-connectors. I feel like that'd be 50x faster. The U connectors might waste some space in between but you also wouldn't have to waste empty space in the middle.
Hi Sir. Can you suggest which pump to use for a solar collector? I want to have a 1 liter per minute flow. Thanks
Could you have used a heat gun to soften up the piping for the bends to get a few more turns in...
It is really great job. I wonder have you connected it to your existing pool pump. How that part works?
Ah we didn't exist it to the existing pool pump. There is a pump in the jacuzzi that pumps water out of the jacuzzi, through the water heater and back into the jacuzzi. The water heater is just resting on top of all the pool pump stuff.
Great job! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks!
It is very easy to just roll out the roll flat, just like romex wire it is very easy and simple.
Interesting - even having a friend with me it didn't seem very easy and simple but good to hear some people are having easy experiences unrolling this stuff!
Very good Intitive
I think I would have put the acrylic in a frame with hinges instead of screwing it directly to the frame if you ever have to get inside for any reason you have to take all them screws out
Hm. That would've been a really good idea haha.