I appreciate that a turned one piece will be stronger, but I wonder why no radi were called for at the transitions - particularly at the shaft to flange, big stress raiser there?
@@TopperMachineLLC Still curious about the total time to hog that much off. Similar to welding where you take and make all the right fit ups for the thickness involve then have to feed three hundred 1/8 rods into the vee. I did this as a novice and always wondered how much time it should be taking. I noticed you let it cool off when approaching final dims. Then used a trial finish cut then measure it to closely match your dimension. I also like the fact that you did not make a center but used a center plate and relied on it to not shift thru out the process. I would have made a center hole and ran the live center into it and reef down on tailstock so it would not move. Good job.
Very nice lathe ya got there...she definitely has guts...that rapid traverse is a nice feature too, and as for the setup, I've been doing it that way for decades as well. Thanks for sharing.
MR TOPPLER, THANKS FOR THE GREAT VIDEO. TIRED OF READING ALL THESE PEOPLE SAYING DUMB, ETC. YOU DID IT RIGHT. THIS IS WHAT THE CONSUMER WANTED. THAT IS WHAT YOU DID. THAT'S GOOD WORK. AND YOU WILL GET MORE BUISNESSES BECAUSE OF IT. THANK YOU FOR THE GREAT VIDEO.
Hi back in 1979 I was a Forman for Celmar a very large moving shop we made things for the government some I wasn't allowed to even talk about. But we had a giant lathe about 60" x 80' came from their navy shop that made propeller shafts . Well I had her spitting 3/4" chips with high speed tooling. Start one cut and run a ten hour shift to be close to the end of cut. I had the set ups for the men then they operated them. Your big chip cuts reminded me . Great company to work for too. Six months there and I became a quadraperectic ROM a dont r cutting exploring my spine. They waned me back but I couldn't do my job. We had planer mills a vbm with 12' table and sunk to floor level and its own extra high roof cut in. Abot 35' tall columns my specialty the big jobs. Used forklift and sledge hammers to set up parts. Oh I was big and super strong not bragging ..
I love the introduction; very creative. I do not know a good chip from a bad one. That crane sure has made lifting easier. Holy smokes.............filled the entire shop. That was a lot of material to remove but you did it. I am sure that it took a lot of time. I am surprised that your cutter held up. Thanks for the video. You did a nice job on the video and the part.
The good chips should be yellow or blue in colour, as it means that they are taking the heat away from the part(in steel that is), and the shape should be 6`s or 9`s or C`s and S`s, as his were, if they are coming off in those small diced curly bits, its great... Of course, if you dont have coloured chips, it just means that the tool and the lathe arent working at optimal efficiency that carbide can allow for, which means shorter work time for you... The chips in most other materials have their own properties, and the colour should not be considered as an indicator of how effectively you are using the machine... The most important part is the size or better yet, the shape... As long as chips break off in bits of 2-12mm or so, you are having a good chip control... If the chips arent breaking but are curling or making whatever other shape, then you have a potential for surface finish ruination, for jamming, for cutter damage, for injuries to yourself, as that mess can just ``explode`` if caught by the chuck jaw and launch a razor necklace at your body, or it can catch and whip about and shred you like butter or pull you in if it catches you, and then you are done for, or in the best scenario, it can just spit out a mess of sharp ``wire`` at you which will land on your clothes harmlessly... You have seen how the chips here look, the size is less relevant and dependent on the cut depth, it just matters that they look somewhat like these ones here in form... All other factors are case dependent.... And some metals dont even allow the chips to carry the heat away, so even that part of the stated above is case dependent, but such metals and alloys are rare... Generally speaking... Even those curly 3-5cm chips are fine, as they break off rather quickly and arent a hazard generally speaking... One could even say that they are preferable, as they are heavier and fall closer to the lathe, making less mess overall... As long as they break off into nice manageable bits, its a good chip...
@@camillosteuss Thanks😲😲😲. I worked in a small steel fab shop as a laser operator, button pusher, for many years but I know nothing about a machine shop. I have a small CNC plasma cutter but there is something wrong with the software. I make some metal art. I had a home business but COVID shut me down. I am glad that God blessed you with greater skills than mine.
@@alanm3438 Its beautiful that you refer to it as metal art... I do too, but skill-wise, nah, im no master, im a lover of machines, and was learning all i could about machinery and adjacent fields and topics for last 15 years, on my own... Sure, i enrolled a mechatronics school to get some related diploma, but i was a gymnasium-agronomy college student when i was learning about machines... I never expected to own a single machine, but i do now, 12 of them... Skill is not learned, its acquired via practice, and while the theory is a great tool, its mostly what i have... I picked up mostly used machines in need of restoration, and that is what im doing atm... Sure, i have a few machines that work, so i am gaining skill, but i am mostly an apprentice in skill level, despite maybe being able to teach manual machining theory in school... I am great at tig welding for a self taught ``artist``, but my approach to machining is slow and steady, not only because machines should be used with care and love, but because i lack the skill to assume the deflection and all other factors that happen during machining, at least accurately to a toolmaker`s level... Dont demean yourself, and dont lament the loss of business... Restart it slowly, find things you can make and market online with love and surety of quality... Even if its a side job and something that merely drips in here and again... It will get better over time, and you will refine your catalog of products in accordance with your tools and with what is sought after by the public and is in your work range at the moment... Speaking of God given blessings, the good book teaches that God has only one son, which means that all of his creation is his one son, endowed with same attributes, as otherwise they would not be describable as a singular perfect extension of the will of God... If you love this field as much as i do, all the talents that i have are yours aswell, you just need be open to them and willing to learn how to reveal them... I was amazed at robin renz and people like that, but now i see that i can do the same, even if at a slower pace at the moment... If all is spirit, or as scientists would call it energy, then all has the identical potential and source with which all is one, and if you know of the dual nature of matter, which renders it apparently a particle, while its in fact a wave, you know that there is almost no difference in what science and religions teach, so dont ever falter and be downcast... Your love and devotion to the art of anything can not go without flourishing into an approximation of perfection... As much as matter is capable of manifesting perfection... All the best, and kindest regards! Steuss
Lot of chips, better a winter job, heat the shop. Fully understandable on using stock, ref prototype. Always great to tune in speeds and feeds on a big job. Thanks for sharing Josh.
I spent 25+ years in jobber machining, single piece, either OEM replacement parts no longer available or outsourcing new parts were to long of a wait, or the custom part for prototyping/ proof of concept type pieces. Lathe was my favorite machine in the shop with portable line bore my second. You have a new subscriber sir, like your thinking and approach to your work, thanks for the tag along video, BTW, Scout crafter recommended your channel.
A single solid peace is always going to be stronger than two welded together, = fewer failures, longer life of the part and less down time. I figured the yt police would chime in on this one so straight to the comments and they did not disappoint lol Thanks for sharing.👍
Perfect example of where a trepanning tool would be a huge improvement. A LOT less material wasted and probably quicker also. Keep the videos coming Josh. Joe
Most three jaw chucks can be dialed in as well.. and it’s faster than a 4 jaw.. people just like to jump on bandwagons .. you know ur job.. you got this
Mostly, yes. But if the customer doesn't know the options and you're the professional, then you should know better. Or at least, you might know better. Don't argue with your customer, but if you can save them time and money, they will be return customers and free salesman on your behalf.
Heya! First timer and new sub here! Short introduction: The last 5 years i was doing mostly lathe work and deep hole drilling. maunal and NC/CNC and most parts the size of what you had on the machine or bigger. The piece you used to push the part into the 3 jaw chuck (yes it's good enough and i don't get the people moaning about that either, it's perfectly accurate and no hassle to setup whatsoever...) with the center already in it... Makes perfect sense now that i see it the first time and im impressed that one can even take a healthy cut with it. Great idea! I wouldn't try your approch on a 1,8 ton chonker but ima have such a contraption around for the next time i have a piece in that dimensions. lol Really nice work on the part and the vid and nice to see some healthy cuts on a manual. Keep it up and thanks for sharing!
Thank you for sharing your manual machining expertise. I wonder how much of the chips can be recycled or does the heat make them poor candidates for re-use? Thanks again.
Sandvik CNMG inserts are the best in my opinion. They take a lot of abuse and keep a good edge longer than most. You get what you pay for is absolutely true in turning/milling tools.
Have you ever tried Kennametal Fix Perfect? Thats an insert that can take abuse and it has 8 cutting edges. Grind a negative cuttinge edge on it and will even cut through 2mm surface harden 54HRC in one go, something i would never try with a CNMG insert.
@@TopperMachineLLC When one is asked to do what you have done - the train yard/locomotive work and the rest and the proprietary work… I tend to go with, “Good god…. wow.”
"LIKE" button has been torqued to the manufacturer's recommended specification. "CLICK". God forbid you should be running around Spooner there with a loose "LIKE" button ! Also, on behalf of both me and my OCD, we want to offer our humble appreciation for the awesomely satisfying pile-o-chips you shared herein ! Keep up the good work!
Great video. I agree with the hog-out. With a weldment, you have many more set-ups and possibilities for error/defects. Perhaps a friction weldment or forging would work for higher volumes. Keep up the good work.
Question: why not use a band saw to cut chunks very close to the big disk area and after that finish it in the late? would not be faster and save material that can be used later?
Nice work Josh. Love your lathe! If I had a need for a lot of these, I think a huge power-hammer and an oil-fired furnace would be the quickest way to forge a very strong blank, that could then be turned on the lathe in a fraction of the time.
While that might be feasible for a larger series production, I don' think it'd be worth the effort for a one-off or low number of items. Just think about the time the part takes to cool down after forging until you can machine it. Besides the uncertainty of properties after the heating (unless you normalize it again, taking another shit load of time)...
If you had to make a bunch of them. Trepanning like David Wilks then plunge cutting leaves you a hollow bar and not nearly as much metal to remove. But could your lathe tail stock handle the torque. Would making the trepanning tool be cost effective.
Yes, I was really thinking, this would be a great time to find a few big long core drills in an auction somewhere.. or make one? & then you will have a supply of big riser blocks, or blanks for sleeving bores..
@@windrk_6754 if you have a steady rest. You might be able to rig that to support the trepanning drill tube while you push it with the tail stock. Might have to use big springs to retract it. If not familar with david wilks channel. He had several on how he machines the tubes for inserts.
Josh, this almost, is like when I headed to South Dakota, for a nice career. Where they turned stuff like that. Nope it wasn't my area, but something worth talking about, when I set up time and visit your shop. Nice setup, what a heck of bucket pile of chips!!!
A great video on metal removal, something that is close to my heart being a retired Seco Tools guy. May I suggest a few calculations to check your surface speed against the RPM rather than to guess. You could always check Sandviks cutting data for the grade of carbide againt the material as well. Good to see you supporting quality tooling, it goes well with your very grunty lathe. Cheers Ian
I've always used the baseline info for cutting, but was taught to tweek and produce better results. It's amazing how much you can push some inserts and have to baby others. I was nowhere near what I've pushed these inserts to, but I also know what gives me the best chip, tool life and surface finish. I could have pushed a lot harder but may have used up a few corners on the job. I did this all on one corner, roughing and finishing.
Really enjoy you videos, I am a home hobbyist with a Logan 14" lathe and play around but nothing to your caliber. I was thinking couldn't you use a hole saw on the end and then use a cut off tool to take each section off until you get it closer to final dimensions, this would give you some rings for other projects. Just a thought vs wasting all that material
2 1/2" deep core drill, & then cutoff tool? Maybe make one if doing many of these, someone on RUclips was making these from steel tube & inserts, to core out several feet deep on a lathe.. great video..
Stupid question time from a woodworking perspective. If I was making a similar part out of wood (not for your kind of application, obviously), I would make a rough cut with a saw and remove much of the material from the stock instead of turning it into chips. I am not a machinist by any means, but I have to wonder if you could bandsaw some of the waste off prior to turning to final dimensions. Fascinating work, Josh. Thanks for sharing.
Get a tool cataloge, usually they have lists with all the cutting parameters, some even have a "how to use them" manual. Every operator has its own preferences on wich inserts he uses, i prefer WNMG for rough cutting and DCMT for finish cuts, others use CNMG for both. And the cutting parameter depends highly on your machine and setup, the machine i used at work i could cut C45 with WNMG inserts Vc180m/s, Ap 6mm and feedrate 1,2mm/U, if i would try that on my lathe at home, she would laugh at me and jump out the window.
Do you know that in the Soviet Union sometimes it came to the point that turners set the task of turning round solid bars into chips in order to close the plan for the scrap metal . At the end of the year, if some plant did not close the plan for scrap metal, then the turners were forced to turned bars into chips).
Really nice machine work , big chips . You know your lathe capabilities and what you can do . Really nice finished product . Sure did sling the chips everywhere . Great video .
Pretty cool, I am not a machinist so I don't know but it seems kind of wasteful, was there no way to saw off the bulk of the material before chucking it up? If possible it seems like you would have some pretty good usable stock for other projects, just curious.
every time I look at those chips flying, I wonder if there's a feasible way of pulling them away from the moving parts. Some form of vacuum with a flex nozzle? Does the spec allow for a fillet of some sort at the diameter transition?
The taper is what they specified. I suggested a radius, but it was quickly shot down. Not going to push the argument and potentially lose the job or customer. It's hard enough finding work in this region.
I read Camillos comment and realize what an incredibly experienced person you are with machinery work that could seriously harm and even kill you - horribly. Knowing nothing about these things this seemed a wonderful smooth performance creating a perfect tool. And now I know where my steel scrubbers could come from.
Great video! Every time I watch a “shafty flangey” turning job where typically 90% of the starting round bar has to turn to chips, I think about the business opportunity in the steel industry to supply shafty-flangey blanks. It would not be trivial - there are four parameters needed to specify a shafty-flangey blank, so you can’t just brute force it. But the potential reduction of waste is so big that I feel there must be an opportunity there.
Well done. Utilizing a single piece is far better than a welded two piece shaft without question. As a retired maintenance machinist, I've seen lots of failed welded shafts, especially on air handling fan shafts, and large pump shafts.
This reminds me of the what distinguishes a whittler from a wood carver. No matter what size log a whittler starts with, the ultimate goal is to produce a toothpick. 😀
stupid question does there exust a technique or tool to plunge cut job like that from the front and then just part the produced section of outer tubing instead of just turning everything into chips?
Technically yes but it would cost a lot more money. You could also use a wire edm to bulk chunks out of the material. Turning it is a lot more fun if you know what your doing
Make a trepanning tool ( long tube with carbide cutters at the end) so you can save the outside material as a tube after running a cut to leave the bottom plate attached. I do not like wasting material into chips even if the customer paid for that material 🙏 that is a ton of material wasted there in this operation 🤔 oh, and you save time cutting once and parting once, then clean up to size. Should be super easy with a lathe of that caliber 👍
Josh...PLEASE don't change a thing in the way you make these vids. Others have gone all fancy pantsy that takes away from where they were in the beginning. How's your weather way UP there? Here in TX, it's half as hot as the sun.
I know it's possible that you can't answer this question for confidential reasons for both you and the customer but what is the finished diameter and what was the minimum and maximum tolerance you have according to the blueprint?
This was several weeks ago, so I don't even remember. I know it was undersize on the drawing by a couple thou. It finished at 1.935" as stated in the video. I think that was the size needed +0.000/-0.002" but I still don't remember.
I have always struggled to get 1045 to break a chip and get a nice surface finish. Apparently I’m not pushing it hard enough! Hadn’t worked with 1045 much before recently, always seemed to be aluminum and 4140. Now I need to go see if my lathe has the HP to break a chip on this stuff.
@@wolf310ii no idea, just come straight off in long, straight curls that look like a spring and break off once they get 6-8” long. I changed to some different inserts and increased the feed rate and it’s much better. It’s customer supplied stock too, so who knows wtf it actually is.
Very nice! LOVE the big chips - so fun to watch! Question on the chip color - I remember from shop class (a million years ago) that brown color chips were okay, blue was not. We were using mostly HSS but had some brazed, non-insert carbide tooling. We also had old WWII vintage machines - so assume the brown okay / blue not okay was a function of our tooling / equipment? (also no coolant, just a pump oil can with auto drain oil in it)
I looked at the manual, and assuming you are using the "DJI Mic", it has an option called "Mono with Safety Track" that will avoid distortion with varying volume. And you generally want to reduce the "Transmitter Gain" via the screen of the microphone. Depending on which video software you are using, I can provide some settings to then normalize and compress the audio back to normal volume so that people won't complain about the audio being too quiet.
Many years ago I had a customer who made drive components and the method they used was start with a solid blank anc using a modified band saw make 6 cuts lengthways and 6 cuts around the bar , this reduced the diameter to a hex slightly more than the finished size , they said it reduced the time by 80 percent , their one had spines on the small end and a bolted flange for a Donut on the large end
Not going to comment on welding it, but I am curious why you didn't use a combination of grooving/plunge tool to form the bar from the end without losing most of the material, so it's available for a later work piece instead of a load of chips on the floor. Then a slitting tool to get the plate or at least the rough shape. Just seems like a large amount of waste material that could be used for something else without having to smelt and recast. End result; something that looks like a short piece of thick walled pipe and the finished product.
Very nice turning, just curious, how would the cool mist have done instead of the coolant ? Would this be a good place to use it? Like these videos! Thanks Josh.
That’s a big piece to machine down and a lot of chips to clean up, when we did jobs like this only 8 in dia we took one of those plastic according downs mounted one side to drive area and the other to the tool mount .we would open it all the way up and as it feed in it would still be at a good angle to catch most of the chips
Josh, Great job on the proctology device, I know it was a real pain in the butt turning that entire thing down..LOL....Id love a Lion like yours...impressive at the least in what it can do....clear skies finally last cpl days here, monster rains luckily keep missing me and slamming VT....all the rain tho making drying my firewood NOT good....and the deer flies....ughhhhhhhhhhhhhh......Keep up the good work.....btw your recycler musta loved that chip bin load....LOL Don
Hi Josh really impressive job on that big piece. i wonder if you could give me some advice on getting a nice surface finish on 1045 steel, cause in my lathe i get a rubbing surface with CNMG inserts, thanks for all the videos greetings from ARG :)
instead of wasting all that material, I'd had used a bandsaw to cut it down to size...(think of cutting corn of the cob) and still have that material for future use on another project
how would u know how much weight your chuck can handle without the part falling off I was scared when I saw you facing it without support, I have no turning experience but I have watched ton of videos and my initial judgement was that the chuck won't be able to handle that part without a steady rest to face it even when turned like that, so how would you know. PS: I am an engineer and I understand concepts like torque and center of gravity so I would know that the holding power will be in proportion to the total weight and the length of the workpiece but have no idea how to determine if a chuck would handle such load.
With expirence you will "know" what the chuck can handle. And there are also rules of thumb like 6xD never without tailstock, 3xD carefull with the RPM, ect.
I appreciate that a turned one piece will be stronger, but I wonder why no radi were called for at the transitions - particularly at the shaft to flange, big stress raiser there?
I wondered that too, but not my design or choice.
Exactly. Just another good point that proves the ones who came up with this don't know their basics.
@@bigbattenberg 100%. This is absolutely a brand new engineer that doesn't have a clue what they're doing.
Dumb engineering that doesn’t understand what they are making. I have designed similar stub shafts and always leave a generous radius
@@TopperMachineLLC Still curious about the total time to hog that much off. Similar to welding where you take and make all the right fit ups for the thickness involve then have to feed three hundred 1/8 rods into the vee. I did this as a novice and always wondered how much time it should be taking. I noticed you let it cool off when approaching final dims. Then used a trial finish cut then measure it to closely match your dimension. I also like the fact that you did not make a center but used a center plate and relied on it to not shift thru out the process. I would have made a center hole and ran the live center into it and reef down on tailstock so it would not move. Good job.
Great video - the intro was a milestone in artistic creativity, revealing your inner Tarantino; more of this please ! Good stuff.
Thanks. I wanted to do something different
Opening made me smile.
Had he crushed the coke can and made it splash blood everywhere, they you could call it a true Tarantino
@@insaneindamembrane7961 look closer. That's not Coke.
AGREE! Very cool intro with that big honkin' piece of steel rolling along! Reminds me of "as the Army goes rolling along!"
Very nice lathe ya got there...she definitely has guts...that rapid traverse is a nice feature too, and as for the setup, I've been doing it that way for decades as well. Thanks for sharing.
MR TOPPLER, THANKS FOR THE GREAT VIDEO. TIRED OF READING ALL THESE PEOPLE SAYING DUMB, ETC. YOU DID IT RIGHT. THIS IS WHAT THE CONSUMER WANTED. THAT IS WHAT YOU DID. THAT'S GOOD WORK. AND YOU WILL GET MORE BUISNESSES BECAUSE OF IT. THANK YOU FOR THE GREAT VIDEO.
Hi back in 1979 I was a Forman for Celmar a very large moving shop we made things for the government some I wasn't allowed to even talk about. But we had a giant lathe about 60" x 80' came from their navy shop that made propeller shafts . Well I had her spitting 3/4" chips with high speed tooling. Start one cut and run a ten hour shift to be close to the end of cut.
I had the set ups for the men then they operated them. Your big chip cuts reminded me . Great company to work for too. Six months there and I became a quadraperectic ROM a dont r cutting exploring my spine. They waned me back but I couldn't do my job. We had planer mills a vbm with 12' table and sunk to floor level and its own extra high roof cut in. Abot 35' tall columns my specialty the big jobs. Used forklift and sledge hammers to set up parts. Oh I was big and super strong not bragging ..
JOBBING SHOP I HATE SPELL CK. CHANGES WORDS TO ITS OWN THINKING.!!!!
@@silverbullet7434 Spiel chucker hand auto collect guts my gloat two! :-)))
...IF YOU SAY SO...
I love the introduction; very creative. I do not know a good chip from a bad one. That crane sure has made lifting easier. Holy smokes.............filled the entire shop. That was a lot of material to remove but you did it. I am sure that it took a lot of time. I am surprised that your cutter held up. Thanks for the video. You did a nice job on the video and the part.
The good chips should be yellow or blue in colour, as it means that they are taking the heat away from the part(in steel that is), and the shape should be 6`s or 9`s or C`s and S`s, as his were, if they are coming off in those small diced curly bits, its great... Of course, if you dont have coloured chips, it just means that the tool and the lathe arent working at optimal efficiency that carbide can allow for, which means shorter work time for you... The chips in most other materials have their own properties, and the colour should not be considered as an indicator of how effectively you are using the machine... The most important part is the size or better yet, the shape... As long as chips break off in bits of 2-12mm or so, you are having a good chip control... If the chips arent breaking but are curling or making whatever other shape, then you have a potential for surface finish ruination, for jamming, for cutter damage, for injuries to yourself, as that mess can just ``explode`` if caught by the chuck jaw and launch a razor necklace at your body, or it can catch and whip about and shred you like butter or pull you in if it catches you, and then you are done for, or in the best scenario, it can just spit out a mess of sharp ``wire`` at you which will land on your clothes harmlessly... You have seen how the chips here look, the size is less relevant and dependent on the cut depth, it just matters that they look somewhat like these ones here in form... All other factors are case dependent.... And some metals dont even allow the chips to carry the heat away, so even that part of the stated above is case dependent, but such metals and alloys are rare... Generally speaking... Even those curly 3-5cm chips are fine, as they break off rather quickly and arent a hazard generally speaking... One could even say that they are preferable, as they are heavier and fall closer to the lathe, making less mess overall... As long as they break off into nice manageable bits, its a good chip...
@@camillosteuss
Thanks😲😲😲. I worked in a small steel fab shop as a laser operator, button pusher, for many years but I know nothing about a machine shop. I have a small CNC plasma cutter but there is something wrong with the software. I make some metal art. I had a home business but COVID shut me down. I am glad that God blessed you with greater skills than mine.
@@alanm3438 Its beautiful that you refer to it as metal art... I do too, but skill-wise, nah, im no master, im a lover of machines, and was learning all i could about machinery and adjacent fields and topics for last 15 years, on my own... Sure, i enrolled a mechatronics school to get some related diploma, but i was a gymnasium-agronomy college student when i was learning about machines... I never expected to own a single machine, but i do now, 12 of them...
Skill is not learned, its acquired via practice, and while the theory is a great tool, its mostly what i have... I picked up mostly used machines in need of restoration, and that is what im doing atm... Sure, i have a few machines that work, so i am gaining skill, but i am mostly an apprentice in skill level, despite maybe being able to teach manual machining theory in school...
I am great at tig welding for a self taught ``artist``, but my approach to machining is slow and steady, not only because machines should be used with care and love, but because i lack the skill to assume the deflection and all other factors that happen during machining, at least accurately to a toolmaker`s level...
Dont demean yourself, and dont lament the loss of business... Restart it slowly, find things you can make and market online with love and surety of quality... Even if its a side job and something that merely drips in here and again... It will get better over time, and you will refine your catalog of products in accordance with your tools and with what is sought after by the public and is in your work range at the moment...
Speaking of God given blessings, the good book teaches that God has only one son, which means that all of his creation is his one son, endowed with same attributes, as otherwise they would not be describable as a singular perfect extension of the will of God... If you love this field as much as i do, all the talents that i have are yours aswell, you just need be open to them and willing to learn how to reveal them...
I was amazed at robin renz and people like that, but now i see that i can do the same, even if at a slower pace at the moment...
If all is spirit, or as scientists would call it energy, then all has the identical potential and source with which all is one, and if you know of the dual nature of matter, which renders it apparently a particle, while its in fact a wave, you know that there is almost no difference in what science and religions teach, so dont ever falter and be downcast... Your love and devotion to the art of anything can not go without flourishing into an approximation of perfection... As much as matter is capable of manifesting perfection...
All the best, and kindest regards!
Steuss
That's my favorite lathe of all the channels I watch. Beautiful unit.
Kind of had that tumbleweed Western feel to the start. Just missing the appropriate music but this video went ahead and made my day.
Lot of chips, better a winter job, heat the shop. Fully understandable on using stock, ref prototype.
Always great to tune in speeds and feeds on a big job.
Thanks for sharing Josh.
I spent 25+ years in jobber machining, single piece, either OEM replacement parts no longer available or outsourcing new parts were to long of a wait, or the custom part for prototyping/ proof of concept type pieces. Lathe was my favorite machine in the shop with portable line bore my second. You have a new subscriber sir, like your thinking and approach to your work, thanks for the tag along video, BTW, Scout crafter recommended your channel.
A single solid peace is always going to be stronger than two welded together, = fewer failures, longer life of the part and less down time. I figured the yt police would chime in on this one so straight to the comments and they did not disappoint lol Thanks for sharing.👍
Loads of stupid comments on this video. All of them entertaining, none of them have a clue. LOL
"none of them have a clue" as in zero understanding 😞
All comments are grist for the algorithm mill. Never discourage engagement.
Fairly sure a forging is stronger, ref flow lines.
@@bostedtap8399 Yes a proper forging would be stronger. It is probably real close to a wash as to the cost of material versus having a forging made.
Phenomenal - I love seeing real machining like this, heavy cuts and proper chip formation, with resulting excellent finish. 👍
Perfect example of where a trepanning tool would be a huge improvement. A LOT less material wasted and probably quicker also.
Keep the videos coming Josh.
Joe
Interesting comment.
Was thinking the same, loved to watch David Wilks videos on those large trepanning jobs
Would you then trepan to a certain depth and part off the trepanned section?
@@bigbattenberg
Yes you could.
Joe
Unfortunately the low volume doesn't warrant the tooling investment.
Most three jaw chucks can be dialed in as well.. and it’s faster than a 4 jaw.. people just like to jump on bandwagons .. you know ur job.. you got this
That’s going to be super strong! Thanks for sharing what you could.
Give the customer what they want, it’s that simple.🇦🇺
Mostly, yes. But if the customer doesn't know the options and you're the professional, then you should know better. Or at least, you might know better.
Don't argue with your customer, but if you can save them time and money, they will be return customers and free salesman on your behalf.
Heya! First timer and new sub here!
Short introduction: The last 5 years i was doing mostly lathe work and deep hole drilling. maunal and NC/CNC and most parts the size of what you had on the machine or bigger.
The piece you used to push the part into the 3 jaw chuck (yes it's good enough and i don't get the people moaning about that either, it's perfectly accurate and no hassle to setup whatsoever...) with the center already in it... Makes perfect sense now that i see it the first time and im impressed that one can even take a healthy cut with it. Great idea!
I wouldn't try your approch on a 1,8 ton chonker but ima have such a contraption around for the next time i have a piece in that dimensions. lol
Really nice work on the part and the vid and nice to see some healthy cuts on a manual.
Keep it up and thanks for sharing!
Thank you. The plate center has been a great addition to the shop and I have several sizes now.
Great video as always Josh, I especially like the intro, thank you for uploading! 👍👍
I'm always amazed at how something seemingly round isn't round at all
Thank you for sharing your manual machining expertise. I wonder how much of the chips can be recycled or does the heat make them poor candidates for re-use? Thanks again.
It all goes to recycling.
LOL, solid intro btw. Your video skills, improving they are... 1/2" chip, now that's a man's chip right there son.
Sandvik CNMG inserts are the best in my opinion. They take a lot of abuse and keep a good edge longer than most. You get what you pay for is absolutely true in turning/milling tools.
Nice to have a variety of inserts from around the world.
These are by far my favorite, but I use many different styles and brands.
@@TopperMachineLLC gc4320?
I mean, sandvik is just a brand. Entirely depends on your grade.
Have you ever tried Kennametal Fix Perfect? Thats an insert that can take abuse and it has 8 cutting edges. Grind a negative cuttinge edge on it and will even cut through 2mm surface harden 54HRC in one go, something i would never try with a CNMG insert.
rarely does oem know the best way to builld something
very nice machine work as always!
I always say as I watch you, “Good god, that guy really knows what he’s doing”.🤜🤛👍👍
Thanks, but if you go by some of the comments, I'm a moron. Lol
@@TopperMachineLLC
When one is asked to do what you have done - the train yard/locomotive work and the rest and the proprietary work… I tend to go with, “Good god…. wow.”
"LIKE" button has been torqued to the manufacturer's recommended specification. "CLICK".
God forbid you should be running around Spooner there with a loose "LIKE" button !
Also, on behalf of both me and my OCD, we want to offer our humble appreciation for the awesomely satisfying pile-o-chips you shared herein !
Keep up the good work!
Love it, "no you don't, I have been doing this for 25 years."
Keep up the great videos.
Great video. I agree with the hog-out. With a weldment, you have many more set-ups and possibilities for error/defects. Perhaps a friction weldment or forging would work for higher volumes. Keep up the good work.
Good video. Beautiful lathe.
Question: why not use a band saw to cut chunks very close to the big disk area and after that finish it in the late? would not be faster and save material that can be used later?
Great video Josh, that intro was something special.
Nice work Josh. Love your lathe!
If I had a need for a lot of these, I think a huge power-hammer and an oil-fired furnace would be the quickest way to forge a very strong blank, that could then be turned on the lathe in a fraction of the time.
While that might be feasible for a larger series production, I don' think it'd be worth the effort for a one-off or low number of items. Just think about the time the part takes to cool down after forging until you can machine it. Besides the uncertainty of properties after the heating (unless you normalize it again, taking another shit load of time)...
Never mine as he says this was a prototype part.
Very impressive. And the amount of chips too.
If you had to make a bunch of them. Trepanning like David Wilks then plunge cutting leaves you a hollow bar and not nearly as much metal to remove. But could your lathe tail stock handle the torque. Would making the trepanning tool be cost effective.
Yes, I was really thinking, this would be a great time to find a few big long core drills in an auction somewhere.. or make one? & then you will have a supply of big riser blocks, or blanks for sleeving bores..
@@windrk_6754 if you have a steady rest. You might be able to rig that to support the trepanning drill tube while you push it with the tail stock. Might have to use big springs to retract it. If not familar with david wilks channel. He had several on how he machines the tubes for inserts.
If I have to do several of those, I believe I'd make a tailstock trepanning tool. That's a lot of chips.
WHY WOULD ANYONE DO THAT?
This kind of technology is really great, thank you for sharing, I have learned a lot
Lovely honest job as always Josh thanks for sharing buddy 👍
That first pass was really nice, good cutter.
Josh, this almost, is like when I headed to South Dakota, for a nice career. Where they turned stuff like that. Nope it wasn't my area, but something worth talking about, when I set up time and visit your shop. Nice setup, what a heck of bucket pile of chips!!!
I would be interested in the runout it had after removing the tailstock. Have you measured it?
A great video on metal removal, something that is close to my heart being a retired Seco Tools guy. May I suggest a few calculations to check your surface speed against the RPM rather than to guess. You could always check Sandviks cutting data for the grade of carbide againt the material as well. Good to see you supporting quality tooling, it goes well with your very grunty lathe. Cheers Ian
I've always used the baseline info for cutting, but was taught to tweek and produce better results. It's amazing how much you can push some inserts and have to baby others. I was nowhere near what I've pushed these inserts to, but I also know what gives me the best chip, tool life and surface finish. I could have pushed a lot harder but may have used up a few corners on the job. I did this all on one corner, roughing and finishing.
Don’t you have magnet chip pickup magnets for cleaning up lathe swarth?
Really enjoy you videos, I am a home hobbyist with a Logan 14" lathe and play around but nothing to your caliber.
I was thinking couldn't you use a hole saw on the end and then use a cut off tool to take each section off until you get it closer to final dimensions, this would give you some rings for other projects.
Just a thought vs wasting all that material
2 1/2" deep core drill, & then cutoff tool? Maybe make one if doing many of these, someone on RUclips was making these from steel tube & inserts, to core out several feet deep on a lathe.. great video..
Stupid question time from a woodworking perspective. If I was making a similar part out of wood (not for your kind of application, obviously), I would make a rough cut with a saw and remove much of the material from the stock instead of turning it into chips.
I am not a machinist by any means, but I have to wonder if you could bandsaw some of the waste off prior to turning to final dimensions.
Fascinating work, Josh. Thanks for sharing.
I have a request. In all of your videos could tell what insert, spindle speed, feed rate, depth of cut. it helps a beginner like me. Thanks.
Get a tool cataloge, usually they have lists with all the cutting parameters, some even have a "how to use them" manual.
Every operator has its own preferences on wich inserts he uses, i prefer WNMG for rough cutting and DCMT for finish cuts, others use CNMG for both.
And the cutting parameter depends highly on your machine and setup, the machine i used at work i could cut C45 with WNMG inserts Vc180m/s, Ap 6mm and feedrate 1,2mm/U, if i would try that on my lathe at home, she would laugh at me and jump out the window.
What happens to all the chips? Are large volumes like you produce recylable?
Brilliant video. My question is if you are turning a taper. What's the best way to counteract that. Maybe by adjusting the tailstock?
Regards,
Joshua.
Check level of your machine first. It should be checked at least once a year. Once level, then check your tailstock.
if you have to do that often, it would probably be worth getting a trepanning tool?
That or forgings.
Do you know that in the Soviet Union sometimes it came to the point that turners set the task of turning round solid bars into chips in order to close the plan for the scrap metal . At the end of the year, if some plant did not close the plan for scrap metal, then the turners were forced to turned bars into chips).
Really nice machine work , big chips . You know your lathe capabilities and what you can do . Really nice finished product . Sure did sling the chips everywhere . Great video .
I could have pushed much harder, but I risk shorter tool life. As it was, it handled it great
That lathe is a beast! Super cool.
Pretty cool, I am not a machinist so I don't know but it seems kind of wasteful, was there no way to saw off the bulk of the material before chucking it up? If possible it seems like you would have some pretty good usable stock for other projects, just curious.
You need some salsa to go with those chips! I wonder if one could have a car wrap done in the same color as those chips. That would be cool!
We all work to the customers specs and requirements, no matter what we do in life. Cracking video though 👍
every time I look at those chips flying, I wonder if there's a feasible way of pulling them away from the moving parts. Some form of vacuum with a flex nozzle?
Does the spec allow for a fillet of some sort at the diameter transition?
The taper is what they specified. I suggested a radius, but it was quickly shot down. Not going to push the argument and potentially lose the job or customer. It's hard enough finding work in this region.
I read Camillos comment and realize what an incredibly experienced person you are with machinery work that could seriously harm and even kill you - horribly. Knowing nothing about these things this seemed a wonderful smooth performance creating a perfect tool. And now I know where my steel scrubbers could come from.
The video should have been,"Chip Removal"
Nice work Josh.
Thanks for sharing.
Great video!
Every time I watch a “shafty flangey” turning job where typically 90% of the starting round bar has to turn to chips, I think about the business opportunity in the steel industry to supply shafty-flangey blanks. It would not be trivial - there are four parameters needed to specify a shafty-flangey blank, so you can’t just brute force it. But the potential reduction of waste is so big that I feel there must be an opportunity there.
I'm not sure if you had me at the beer can or the slow-mo? Great video!
Great video and work. Loved the intro.
I would put that opening up against This Old Tony’s best !
hello topper machine llc it's randy and i like yours video is cool thanks friends randy
You are a very good machinst !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well done. Utilizing a single piece is far better than a welded two piece shaft without question. As a retired maintenance machinist, I've seen lots of failed welded shafts, especially on air handling fan shafts, and large pump shafts.
This reminds me of the what distinguishes a whittler from a wood carver. No matter what size log a whittler starts with, the ultimate goal is to produce a toothpick. 😀
stupid question
does there exust a technique or tool to plunge cut job like that from the front and then just part the produced section of outer tubing instead of just turning everything into chips?
Technically yes but it would cost a lot more money. You could also use a wire edm to bulk chunks out of the material. Turning it is a lot more fun if you know what your doing
Make a trepanning tool ( long tube with carbide cutters at the end) so you can save the outside material as a tube after running a cut to leave the bottom plate attached. I do not like wasting material into chips even if the customer paid for that material 🙏 that is a ton of material wasted there in this operation 🤔 oh, and you save time cutting once and parting once, then clean up to size.
Should be super easy with a lathe of that caliber 👍
Josh...PLEASE don't change a thing in the way you make these vids. Others have gone all fancy pantsy that takes away from where they were in the beginning. How's your weather way UP there? Here in TX, it's half as hot as the sun.
Curious before weight, after weight
I love that lathe. I think it will do anything you ask it to.
Yes it will. I've been very impressed
I know it's possible that you can't answer this question for confidential reasons for both you and the customer but what is the finished diameter and what was the minimum and maximum tolerance you have according to the blueprint?
This was several weeks ago, so I don't even remember. I know it was undersize on the drawing by a couple thou. It finished at 1.935" as stated in the video. I think that was the size needed +0.000/-0.002" but I still don't remember.
I have always struggled to get 1045 to break a chip and get a nice surface finish. Apparently I’m not pushing it hard enough!
Hadn’t worked with 1045 much before recently, always seemed to be aluminum and 4140. Now I need to go see if my lathe has the HP to break a chip on this stuff.
You struggle to get 1045 to break chips? How? It has 0,45% Carbon in it, its actually hard to not break the chips
@@wolf310ii no idea, just come straight off in long, straight curls that look like a spring and break off once they get 6-8” long.
I changed to some different inserts and increased the feed rate and it’s much better.
It’s customer supplied stock too, so who knows wtf it actually is.
Still risk damaging the accuracy of the three jaw internal scroll when chucking up on rough stock? Still enjoy the video.
Very nice! LOVE the big chips - so fun to watch! Question on the chip color - I remember from shop class (a million years ago) that brown color chips were okay, blue was not. We were using mostly HSS but had some brazed, non-insert carbide tooling. We also had old WWII vintage machines - so assume the brown okay / blue not okay was a function of our tooling / equipment? (also no coolant, just a pump oil can with auto drain oil in it)
HSS you never want too hot, so brown would be OK. Carbide can be blue, its transferring the heat to the chip not the part.
@@TopperMachineLLC Nice! Thanks for the explanation! LOVE watching those big chips!
@@kd5byb With carbide inserts you can have easy 10 times the cutting speed of HSS.
HSS around Vc 10-30m/s in steel, carbide inserts Vc 150-250m/s.
I looked at the manual, and assuming you are using the "DJI Mic", it has an option called "Mono with Safety Track" that will avoid distortion with varying volume. And you generally want to reduce the "Transmitter Gain" via the screen of the microphone. Depending on which video software you are using, I can provide some settings to then normalize and compress the audio back to normal volume so that people won't complain about the audio being too quiet.
Send me an email and we can go over these details. I really appreciate the help.
Always fascinated by your work! Thanks!
Many years ago I had a customer who made drive components and the method they used was start with a solid blank anc using a modified band saw make 6 cuts lengthways and 6 cuts around the bar , this reduced the diameter to a hex slightly more than the finished size , they said it reduced the time by 80 percent , their one had spines on the small end and a bolted flange for a Donut on the large end
Loved the intro!
Do the chips have any value? Can/do you recycle them and recover some cost?
yes, they go to recycling
Not going to comment on welding it, but I am curious why you didn't use a combination of grooving/plunge tool to form the bar from the end without losing most of the material, so it's available for a later work piece instead of a load of chips on the floor. Then a slitting tool to get the plate or at least the rough shape. Just seems like a large amount of waste material that could be used for something else without having to smelt and recast. End result; something that looks like a short piece of thick walled pipe and the finished product.
I don't have any trepanning tools, and a rare job like this isn't worth the investment.
Sheesh, I know it's what the customer wanted, but holy hell. I'd hate to foot the bill for that job. What was the before and after weight of that bar?
I'd have to look at the paperwork for before weight, but I think it was around 400# and finished was definitely under 50#. Lots of material came off.
In video he mentions approx 410lbs start approx 37lbs finish...
@@hanzfischer585 Bud I didn't watch the entire 31 minutes like you. Some people got a life outside watching youtube videos all day.
@@BallBusta One as..... in every crowd
what RPM were you at when you started cutting?
Very nice turning, just curious, how would the cool mist have done instead of the coolant ? Would this be a good place to use it? Like these videos! Thanks Josh.
Flood is way better for this application
Is this machine gear driven? It handeling these cuts like a beast
Belts to the input shaft and clutched gear head.
Yeah thanks for sharing Topper
Why do you not treepan and then you have a piece to use not just chips
Great video. Could you have cut some of it down with a bandsaw? Keep up the good work.
Would it be possible to Bandsaw some of that off, and save a bunch of material instead of turning it all into chips?
No, this is far faster. Took 45 minutes to rough it out. I have no need to store material that may eventually have a purpose.
How much larger is the pile of chips than the original blank?
That’s a big piece to machine down and a lot of chips to clean up, when we did jobs like this only 8 in dia we took one of those plastic according downs mounted one side to drive area and the other to the tool mount .we would open it all the way up and as it feed in it would still be at a good angle to catch most of the chips
Great video sir ❤❤❤
Josh,
Great job on the proctology device, I know it was a real pain in the butt turning that entire thing down..LOL....Id love a Lion like yours...impressive at the least in what it can do....clear skies finally last cpl days here, monster rains luckily keep missing me and slamming VT....all the rain tho making drying my firewood NOT good....and the deer flies....ughhhhhhhhhhhhhh......Keep up the good work.....btw your recycler musta loved that chip bin load....LOL
Don
Love the intro rolling machine!
The Lyon did a fine job…
All that work for a hamburger press lol 😂
would it have been cheaper to get a forging instead of buying that massive chunk of material?
Many forgings, yes. One? No.
What your need for roughing that is a Warner & Swasey 2A
Had one, sold it to make room when I bought the Lion.
Hi Josh really impressive job on that big piece. i wonder if you could give me some advice on getting a nice surface finish on 1045 steel, cause in my lathe i get a rubbing surface with CNMG inserts, thanks for all the videos greetings from ARG :)
1045 likes deeper cuts. I get bad finishes on cuts less than 0.015. I tend to try to finish with 0.025". At least that's my experience.
@@TopperMachineLLC Thanks a lot Josh i'll try it :)
Now THAT is a hefty 5-C step collet you are building
instead of wasting all that material, I'd had used a bandsaw to cut it down to size...(think of cutting corn of the cob) and still have that material for future use on another project
how would u know how much weight your chuck can handle without the part falling off I was scared when I saw you facing it without support, I have no turning experience but I have watched ton of videos and my initial judgement was that the chuck won't be able to handle that part without a steady rest to face it even when turned like that, so how would you know.
PS: I am an engineer and I understand concepts like torque and center of gravity so I would know that the holding power will be in proportion to the total weight and the length of the workpiece but have no idea how to determine if a chuck would handle such load.
With expirence you will "know" what the chuck can handle. And there are also rules of thumb like 6xD never without tailstock, 3xD carefull with the RPM, ect.
Wow ! Great work
Great vid JT