I like your channel because we see actual jobs being done for customers. A lot of the RUclips lathe and milling machine channels spend most of the time making add-ons for equipment they own or trying to come up with new ideas to make machinists hammers or fixture plates etc. Nice to see a real world person doing real jobs. ******
You are the first person I have seen that doesn’t use three times more AnchorLube than he needs.Every time I see someone glob that stuff on, I shake my head.
I'm attempting to correct this exact same condition at 68yr, but opted for a more manageable setup using a 24"x 48" 3 axis CNC router. Never say never. It will keep you engaged and rightly challenged every day. The CADCAM software alone will keep you entertained.
BIG CHIPS! LOL I love it.... it makes some of the viewers go nuts.... 'you're pushing your machine too hard....'. The only drawback is that you didn't use an adjustable wrench in this video! 🤣😂
I love the chips, breaking and dropping into the chip pan. After he turned it around and started on the small journals did anyone else notice the stringing chips made until the cutter got closer to the chuck? Minor problem but this does indicate the need for a center for support. With the center those strings would have been broken chips. Another reason for support here. The bigger the chip, the more deflection for the workpiece and the tooling.
Wrong, a center would not have stopped the stringy chip. I have done plenty of this kind of work, with and without. Fine cuts, when you are going for surface finish, just make sting with some material. Some material is worse.
@@CothranMike LOL what are you on about??? Stringy chips are NOT an indicator that you need support, that's the most ridiculous statement i have ever heard. (the first indicator for the need of support is Chatter) Carbide is made via sintering, powders of various compositions get compacted (via a press) into a die/mould and baked after for the desired part and MOST carbides have chipbreakers designed into the mould "the funny looking top of an insert" but every tool has a radius (some more than others), the manufacturer of any carbide insert will tell you that the chipbreaker only gets any use when you atleast take a cut as big as the radius of the insert and even despite that the finer the feed the harder it is to break anyway because you reduce the tool pressure. And a insert needs that tool pressure to actually break the chip (the chip needs to be heavy so it can actually hit the top of the insert, where the chipbreaker is), why do you think that the first things you do if the chip does not break is increase the feed(or take a heavier cut)? If you look at an insert which has been used for heavy roughing, you will see the top of the insert the chips wear a "hole" into the top of the insert, where the chipbreaker is because the tool pressure is higher then normal use. If his deflection was as high as you think it was, you would see runnout in the part because deflection means movement. If the tailstock was out of alignment even a little and he would use it as support, obviously the spindle would have runnout and therefor be scrap metal, so doing it without support actually ensured that the spindle is running true in the end.. And despite the chipbreaker, some materials just are stringy, due to their additives in the manufacturing of the material. (that's why materials like "free machining steel" exists, because its nice to machine because of the high amounts of phosphor in the steel). I highly doubt you will even read 1/10th of what i wrote but stop commenting such nonsense.
I like you youtube guys that don't block out the sound of the machining of parts. I like to know what different materials sound like when they are being cut. I enjoy your videos.
Fascinating video! Can I suggest, if it works with your plans, that you do a video about basic safety around machine tools? I can't recall ever seeing one and I think it would be helpful to beginners like me. I'd like to try machining, but without knowing what not to do it's intimidating. Those machines need to be respected. Thank you!
The most basic rule when working around machines is never put your hands anywhere you wouldn't put your dick. I'm sure OSHA has a ton of videos made for safety training but everyone I've ever trained thats how I explained it. Most of them have kids today so they must've listened to an extent.
Happy days Josh, proper job well done, always enjoy watching these kind of parts being made, thats another machine back up and running, thanks for sharing buddy and best wishes to you and yours 👍
Editing aside, still impressive how quickly you roughed that out and then finished it down to good bearing fits. I do some hobby work with a 12CK, I'd be fussing with that all day. Time is money, and you've got the skill to make many of these one-off jobs practical for your customers.
It is always informative to see you make parts like this. When I see what the video is going to be about, I pause it, have a think through how I'd do the process, then start the vid again and see how close I was. On this one I was pretty damn close, which makes me happy. I'd love to know what insert that is if you'd care to share. I keep getting told by a variety of amateur machinists that I shouldn't attempt to to take light cuts (.002 like) with carbide inserts. I have yet to figure out why. I do it quite often out of necessity and apart from the stringy piece of razor sharp spaghetti it cuts fine. Yeah sure I try and finish diameters with a couple of identical similarly loaded cuts but some times you have to do a final adjustment. The machinists at my last job took 2 and 3 thou finishing cuts on big lathes and VTLs all the time so I think that is some sort of a myth. Sorry, TL;DR.
Josh: When you talk about taken 25 th. off, when the piece is rotating, it is actually on both sides so it is 50 th. How do you set the guage on the machine. I am a bit confused. Always good watching!!
Another one for the archive! That old Monarch really seems like a very good machine. I wish I could afford one just like it. Already looking forward to next weeks video. KOKO!
Hi Josh, Another good video with practical content. I have a couple of comments being a machinist. I am a fan of 4 jaw chucks and the job would not have moved in the 4 jaw. Also I was surprised you didn't use any lube on your thread cutting. Now I will put my SecoTools hat on. The point of the threading tool is subjected to high temp during the cutting process and this can cause tool failure, not to mention the surface finish. I always had a tin of oil and a paint brush and brushed oil on the thread during the cut and it worked well. Cheers Ian
I know you don't like skid steer loaders, but they have their place. Decades ago I operated a skid steer loader under a rolling mill removing the debris that is produced during the rolling process. This machine was a very old Clark Bobcat and it was the only machine that would fit in the very confined space. Newer skid steer loaders would not fit and no way you'd get a regular wheel loader anywhere near it. I also owned my own skid steer loader about 30 years ago and I did a lot of work on our property, starting with making our access road. These machines are really great to operate, so much more versatile and manoeuvrable than a wheel loader. It's so much faster than a wheel loader due to being able to turn in its own length.
I agree, they have their place, just like CNC machines. But I am not going to buy a skid loader to plow a parking lot or load dump trucks, which is what most people do with them. They are designed for tight quarters, where a wheel loader is not suited.
Nice work. It must be really satisfying to see that clean shinny metal :). BTW, my family has a small tree farm down by Menomonie and we really like that area of WI. It's a pleasant change from the hustle and bustle of the big city.
Have you ever tried to reverse thread away from a shoulder? Joe Pie at Advanced Innovations uses this method and seems very cool to do. It takes the stress out of threading to a shoulder.
Morning Josh, Sounds like you're busier than a beaver on steriods....great for business but sucks for personal projects.....Love that Lion of your's but enjoy seeing the Ole Monarch cranking out chips as well....busy here too, ...lil small jobs and then the big kaboom of a honeydo that dominates everything else.....ughhhhhhh......what can I say, Happy wife, Happy life !!!!! constant chore lately keeping everything rust proofed, high humidity is horrible..... Real nice job, know ya coulda fixed that irregular bore on the arm, but figured you didnt do that cuz it was gonna be welded in anyways and would be sufficient for its purpose....You and I and Stuart need to coordinate a get together when we can arrange it, Don
that was a lovely duck egg blue on that first pass for the threaded end, thats the colour to aim for when tempering springs ... Is the slide on your mill still called a Quill...seems like something as robust as that being called a Quill is a bit of an understatement lol Thanks for sharing ...
RE: Stock moving in the chuck. I made a work stop that fits in the headstock Morse taper that has an adjustable stud for my lathe to keep the work from moving during heavy cuts.
I have made a few of those things over the years. Also shafts for the boogie wheels too. Repaired the frame bores and general rebuild work. ASV is indeed a good machine, the undercarriage is a bit archaic in my way of thinking, but they work and work great. An ASV or other tracked skid loader is like crack cocaine. Once your hooked you cannot go without it!
I have ran several of them, I still would take a good wheel loader any day of the week. Skid loaders whether tracked or tires, just do not have anything I need for ability. And I don't like the ride.
@@TopperMachineLLC I can see your point. Here are large forklift and a loader is a much better fit too. However if you are putting septic systems in town, grading small lots, landscaping or have an aggregate plant to clean up around and so forth with ll the attachments available they are handy as a shirt pocket. But useless unless we can fix them.
Just curious as to why no interference fit for the bearings? I understand the lock nut may very well be tightening the whole assembly onto the shaft but was wondering if there was some practical or engineering reason why the bearings are a slip fit
I may have missed it but what material was used to make the spindle? Does it need to be hardened. Also wouldn't leaving the spindle a little bigger so it needs to be shrink fitted to make a stronger joint and then weld it. i know that wasn't the failure point, but any little bit help, especially with some peoples abilities to weld.
@@markat9576 TG&P - turned ground & polished. Silicon killed medium carbon steel. Equivalent to C45E [iso] also a poor welding choice due to the extra carbon, but he knows that. Wire welding will do better than arc with fluxed stick
Maybe this is a silly question, but: When you set a piece of material like in this video up in the lathe, do you need to indicate it? Why I'm asking: The machining end obviously gets round and true from the roughing cuts (so I'd guess no indicating needed), or do you have to stay in the "middle" of the new material (e.g. because of how the center gets rolled in the foundry)? Or is all that theoretical at best and for this part it's more than plenty fine either way? Thank you! :)
I am under the impression that simply put is the indication may not be too necessary with stuff like this. I made a lot of skidsteer parts but the tolerances aren’t too critical
I "think" your viewers (at least, me) would like to hear, without giving anything away, why it gets mentioned often that you are working on jobs that can not be filmed, or are "secret", maybe just a bit more explanation as to why a job shop gets those, and why secret,.... Keep up all the Great !!
Machining the slot for the lock washer and then drilling the cotter pin hole doesn't mess up the threads you just cut? Or do you have to clean up the threads some after?
Just wondering if the dial on the cross slide is what you take off the radius or the diameter. Most likely the radius like the lathe I used in secondary school. So to take 10 thou off the diameter, you dial up 5 thou on the dial?
Just out of curiosity, why did the customer not just order the Part from New Holland? Was it not available or did they want an eye watering silly amount of money for the part?
It is great to see you this morning. You did a nice job on the filming and the part. I do not have your skills and so I appreciate your videos all the more. Once again you have come to the rescue to help your customer. I imagine that part cost a lot of money and it would take a long time to get here. Thanks again.............from Rhinelander.
OK...s uppose you have a shaft that is 10 thousandths over. Aside from tolerances, etc, do you move the feed wheel 10 units or 5? I guess I am asking if you are always dividing by 2?
I have my DRO set up for Diameter, and the Monarch and Lion are diameter on the dial. It simplifies life to have quality machines. The low-end machines have dials reading the radius.
How did you arrive at 1045 steel for the spindle? I would have thought of 4140 or even 4340 because you are replacing what was almost certainly a steel forging. I don’t know much about suspension components but we used to machine billet crankshafts from 4340 steel (+ heat treat) for fairly high output V6 engines. Not criticizing, just asking.
@@TopperMachineLLC it looks like a brittle or fatigue failure mode almost zero ductile or plastic deformation judging by how well the two parts fit together. Maybe the original part was not heat treated correctly
Could be anything from proprietary technology, experimental work, customer preference/liability, the list continues. Anyway, he's not filming. It's an electronic camera recording on memory media, not fillm.
@@TopperMachineLLC This may be true, Josh, every job you can get in your shrinking economic work environment, every job, keeps you and your family fed. Plus we enjoy watching you use those wonderful old machines.
I love it when people save their equipment instead of replacing it. Great job, Josh.
I like your channel because we see actual jobs being done for customers. A lot of the RUclips lathe and milling machine channels spend most of the time making add-ons for equipment they own or trying to come up with new ideas to make machinists hammers or fixture plates etc. Nice to see a real world person doing real jobs. ******
I like watching this show I watch a lot of machine shop shows but I like yours too you are doing a fantastic job😅
Skid steers have the advantage of being short with a lot of lift capacity, beyond that their advantages are limited. Spindle looks nice.
You are the first person I have seen that doesn’t use three times more AnchorLube than he needs.Every time I see someone glob that stuff on, I shake my head.
Kind of blew my mind to watch you freehand those totally respectable radiused transitions. Bravo.
thanks
I wish I had learned machining when I was younger. Another great video!!
I'm attempting to correct this exact same condition at 68yr, but opted for a more manageable setup using a 24"x 48" 3 axis CNC router. Never say never. It will keep you engaged and rightly challenged every day. The CADCAM software alone will keep you entertained.
Josh, you are talent on loan from God. I am a hobbyist and am grateful for all your content. Thank you.
I appreciate that!
BIG CHIPS! LOL I love it.... it makes some of the viewers go nuts.... 'you're pushing your machine too hard....'. The only drawback is that you didn't use an adjustable wrench in this video! 🤣😂
I love the chips, breaking and dropping into the chip pan. After he turned it around and started on the small journals did anyone else notice the stringing chips made until the cutter got closer to the chuck? Minor problem but this does indicate the need for a center for support. With the center those strings would have been broken chips. Another reason for support here. The bigger the chip, the more deflection for the workpiece and the tooling.
I like to take big cuts in aluminum with my 11" logan and pretend to be one of the cool kids lol!
Wrong, a center would not have stopped the stringy chip. I have done plenty of this kind of work, with and without. Fine cuts, when you are going for surface finish, just make sting with some material. Some material is worse.
@@CothranMike LOL what are you on about??? Stringy chips are NOT an indicator that you need support, that's the most ridiculous statement i have ever heard. (the first indicator for the need of support is Chatter)
Carbide is made via sintering, powders of various compositions get compacted (via a press) into a die/mould and baked after for the desired part and MOST carbides have chipbreakers designed into the mould "the funny looking top of an insert" but every tool has a radius (some more than others), the manufacturer of any carbide insert will tell you that the chipbreaker only gets any use when you atleast take a cut as big as the radius of the insert and even despite that the finer the feed the harder it is to break anyway because you reduce the tool pressure. And a insert needs that tool pressure to actually break the chip (the chip needs to be heavy so it can actually hit the top of the insert, where the chipbreaker is), why do you think that the first things you do if the chip does not break is increase the feed(or take a heavier cut)? If you look at an insert which has been used for heavy roughing, you will see the top of the insert the chips wear a "hole" into the top of the insert, where the chipbreaker is because the tool pressure is higher then normal use.
If his deflection was as high as you think it was, you would see runnout in the part because deflection means movement.
If the tailstock was out of alignment even a little and he would use it as support, obviously the spindle would have runnout and therefor be scrap metal, so doing it without support actually ensured that the spindle is running true in the end..
And despite the chipbreaker, some materials just are stringy, due to their additives in the manufacturing of the material. (that's why materials like "free machining steel" exists, because its nice to machine because of the high amounts of phosphor in the steel).
I highly doubt you will even read 1/10th of what i wrote but stop commenting such nonsense.
@@FireGodSpeed
CothranMike did some chatter....
Maybe he needs support...?
🤣🇬🇧
Gorgeous surface finish. Almost nobody gets a mirror when hogging off that much metal. Nice job!
That radius blending freehand was beyond impressive! Nice stuff!!
Thanks!
I know you are not lying about the Lion, you told us why, and its good to see your integrity. Thanks for another interesting video
I like you youtube guys that don't block out the sound of the machining of parts. I like to know what different materials sound like when they are being cut. I enjoy your videos.
Glad you enjoy it!
Yeah, it helps to know what is normal for different materials at different speeds.
I just love how the frame rate makes it look like the lathe is in reverse!
Fascinating video! Can I suggest, if it works with your plans, that you do a video about basic safety around machine tools? I can't recall ever seeing one and I think it would be helpful to beginners like me. I'd like to try machining, but without knowing what not to do it's intimidating. Those machines need to be respected. Thank you!
The most basic rule when working around machines is never put your hands anywhere you wouldn't put your dick. I'm sure OSHA has a ton of videos made for safety training but everyone I've ever trained thats how I explained it. Most of them have kids today so they must've listened to an extent.
@@mmm365 And NO jewelry.
superstar !!!! Someone please send this man a khaki Rolls Royce dust jacket with the RR on the pocket
He'd need a gentleman's gentleman as well.
@@twotone3070 imagine being able to afford a few of those these days
Happy days Josh, proper job well done, always enjoy watching these kind of parts being made, thats another machine back up and running, thanks for sharing buddy and best wishes to you and yours 👍
Very nice work your customer should be pleased !
Editing aside, still impressive how quickly you roughed that out and then finished it down to good bearing fits. I do some hobby work with a 12CK, I'd be fussing with that all day. Time is money, and you've got the skill to make many of these one-off jobs practical for your customers.
@@grizzlyrideemwet1698 would be a lot faster using a CNC lathe.
It is always informative to see you make parts like this. When I see what the video is going to be about, I pause it, have a think through how I'd do the process, then start the vid again and see how close I was. On this one I was pretty damn close, which makes me happy. I'd love to know what insert that is if you'd care to share.
I keep getting told by a variety of amateur machinists that I shouldn't attempt to to take light cuts (.002 like) with carbide inserts. I have yet to figure out why. I do it quite often out of necessity and apart from the stringy piece of razor sharp spaghetti it cuts fine. Yeah sure I try and finish diameters with a couple of identical similarly loaded cuts but some times you have to do a final adjustment. The machinists at my last job took 2 and 3 thou finishing cuts on big lathes and VTLs all the time so I think that is some sort of a myth. Sorry, TL;DR.
Light cuts with carbide are still necessary. I usually try to hit my size with about 0.020 cuts, but that doesn't always happen.
I think it is great that the old gal gets a turn in the Sun from time to time.
Nice work Josh! Really enjoy your channel.
Nice work Josh.
Have a great day. 👍
Lovely radii.
Josh: When you talk about taken 25 th. off, when the piece is rotating, it is actually on both sides so it is 50 th. How do you set the guage on the machine. I am a bit confused. Always good watching!!
Hi Josh & it's is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks Josh & Friends Randy
Really nice work. I’m proud that you’re a fellow Wisconsinite. Great content
Another one for the archive! That old Monarch really seems like a very good machine. I wish I could afford one just like it. Already looking forward to next weeks video. KOKO!
Thanks!
Thank you very much!!!
Hi Josh, Another good video with practical content. I have a couple of comments being a machinist. I am a fan of 4 jaw chucks and the job would not have moved in the 4 jaw. Also I was surprised you didn't use any lube on your thread cutting. Now I will put my SecoTools hat on. The point of the threading tool is subjected to high temp during the cutting process and this can cause tool failure, not to mention the surface finish. I always had a tin of oil and a paint brush and brushed oil on the thread during the cut and it worked well. Cheers Ian
The camera is great , more closeups very detailed. Enjoy your work.
I know you don't like skid steer loaders, but they have their place. Decades ago I operated a skid steer loader under a rolling mill removing the debris that is produced during the rolling process. This machine was a very old Clark Bobcat and it was the only machine that would fit in the very confined space. Newer skid steer loaders would not fit and no way you'd get a regular wheel loader anywhere near it. I also owned my own skid steer loader about 30 years ago and I did a lot of work on our property, starting with making our access road. These machines are really great to operate, so much more versatile and manoeuvrable than a wheel loader. It's so much faster than a wheel loader due to being able to turn in its own length.
I agree, they have their place, just like CNC machines. But I am not going to buy a skid loader to plow a parking lot or load dump trucks, which is what most people do with them. They are designed for tight quarters, where a wheel loader is not suited.
Beautiful work!!!! Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice work. It must be really satisfying to see that clean shinny metal :). BTW, my family has a small tree farm down by Menomonie and we really like that area of WI. It's a pleasant change from the hustle and bustle of the big city.
Have you ever tried to reverse thread away from a shoulder? Joe Pie at Advanced Innovations uses this method and seems very cool to do. It takes the stress out of threading to a shoulder.
This was covered in an earlier video. Not an option on a gear head monarch.
Looking good. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Awesome finishes, a job well done. 👍
A belayed 4th of July to you and your family. And a belayed wish for your happy birthday .Greetings from Germany.
Thank you,
Nice work
Well done. Maybe look into button inserts for radius work. They have saved me some time and effort since I started using them.
I have some. They have their place, but for something like this it's not worth my time to set-up.
Nice job on the part. Looks like that poor guy had to go to town with his grinder to get that off.
Nice. Like the freehand radii.
Beautiful
Great job JOSH.
Well done!
Good job.
Thank you Josh!
Dear Josh, hope you are having a wonderful Independence Day Weekend, best wishes from Florida , Paul
Thanks Paul, we did.
another job well done always learning something from each of your videos like leaving it over sized let it cool then finish it off thanks Cheers
Thermal expansion is a real problem with all metals. Some worse than others.
Fantastic Job my Friend......
Morning Josh,
Sounds like you're busier than a beaver on steriods....great for business but sucks for personal projects.....Love that Lion of your's but enjoy seeing the Ole Monarch cranking out chips as well....busy here too, ...lil small jobs and then the big kaboom of a honeydo that dominates everything else.....ughhhhhhh......what can I say, Happy wife, Happy life !!!!! constant chore lately keeping everything rust proofed, high humidity is horrible.....
Real nice job, know ya coulda fixed that irregular bore on the arm, but figured you didnt do that cuz it was gonna be welded in anyways and would be sufficient for its purpose....You and I and Stuart need to coordinate a get together when we can arrange it,
Don
It has been crazy! We should plan a meet up. Maybe when you come get your shaper, we can all load it up together.
nice job
Good job done!
Excellent job, great video, keep'um coming..
Thanks Josh. Nice job.
Always a pleasure and a learning experience. 😊
Nicely done as usual 👍👍👍👍
that was a lovely duck egg blue on that first pass for the threaded end, thats the colour to aim for when tempering springs ...
Is the slide on your mill still called a Quill...seems like something as robust as that being called a Quill is a bit of an understatement lol
Thanks for sharing ...
Hi Josh
Thank you for your videos. If possible while your threading could you have a split screen showing both the cut and your hands/controls.
W
Possibly, but that is more camera and editing work.
I respect that
RE: Stock moving in the chuck. I made a work stop that fits in the headstock Morse taper that has an adjustable stud for my lathe to keep the work from moving during heavy cuts.
I also have made similar stops. One in an upcoming video.
Thanks. Good job.
Thanks for watching!
I have made a few of those things over the years. Also shafts for the boogie wheels too. Repaired the frame bores and general rebuild work. ASV is indeed a good machine, the undercarriage is a bit archaic in my way of thinking, but they work and work great. An ASV or other tracked skid loader is like crack cocaine. Once your hooked you cannot go without it!
I have ran several of them, I still would take a good wheel loader any day of the week. Skid loaders whether tracked or tires, just do not have anything I need for ability. And I don't like the ride.
@@TopperMachineLLC I can see your point. Here are large forklift and a loader is a much better fit too. However if you are putting septic systems in town, grading small lots, landscaping or have an aggregate plant to clean up around and so forth with ll the attachments available they are handy as a shirt pocket. But useless unless we can fix them.
Satisfying!!
'You want it made of metal? Yeah, I've got some metal.'
Just curious as to why no interference fit for the bearings? I understand the lock nut may very well be tightening the whole assembly onto the shaft but was wondering if there was some practical or engineering reason why the bearings are a slip fit
👍🏽 nice part. I’m sure this part is good 4 a life time guarantee😅. (Who’s life)😂
Does the part need to be hardened?
Happy 4th
I may have missed it but what material was used to make the spindle? Does it need to be hardened. Also wouldn't leaving the spindle a little bigger so it needs to be shrink fitted to make a stronger joint and then weld it. i know that wasn't the failure point, but any little bit help, especially with some peoples abilities to weld.
At 1:25 he says the material is 1045PG&P
@@markat9576 TG&P - turned ground & polished. Silicon killed medium carbon steel. Equivalent to C45E [iso] also a poor welding choice due to the extra carbon, but he knows that. Wire welding will do better than arc with fluxed stick
Customer specified how he wanted it fit. Also, he is a very skilled welder.
Nice job! Standard or metric threads? Do you have the option to do both with that lathe?
all standard on the Monarch. Goofy threads on the Lion.
I love chips!
Why don't the pro's turn threads away from the shoulder, like Joe Pie showed a decade ago?
Maybe this is a silly question, but: When you set a piece of material like in this video up in the lathe, do you need to indicate it? Why I'm asking: The machining end obviously gets round and true from the roughing cuts (so I'd guess no indicating needed), or do you have to stay in the "middle" of the new material (e.g. because of how the center gets rolled in the foundry)? Or is all that theoretical at best and for this part it's more than plenty fine either way? Thank you! :)
I am under the impression that simply put is the indication may not be too necessary with stuff like this. I made a lot of skidsteer parts but the tolerances aren’t too critical
Indicating is not necessary on stuff like this. All of the critical features were turned in one setup.
Plus it's getting welded into an out of round piece so...
I "think" your viewers (at least, me) would like to hear, without giving anything away, why it gets mentioned often that you are working on jobs that can not be filmed, or are "secret", maybe just a bit more explanation as to why a job shop gets those, and why secret,.... Keep up all the Great !!
I'll talk about that in the follow-up
@@TopperMachineLLC Thank you Josh, I shall wait patiently, Thanxxx.
GOOD MORNING JOSH,
DOES A SPINDEL LIKE THAT HAVE TO BE HARDENED AFTER MACHINING.
Why are you YELLING?
Wanted to make sure he heard me
No, made many spindles over the years with 1045 and 1144 and never hardened them. They are still all running strong.
Machining the slot for the lock washer and then drilling the cotter pin hole doesn't mess up the threads you just cut? Or do you have to clean up the threads some after?
Minimal burr, simple clean up with a thread file.
Just wondering: don't you want the both parts of bearing to always press fit?
bearings on the shaft are a slip fit for adjustment.
Why didn’t you use a radius cutter at the end of each step to ease the chance of breaking at a hard edge
Ive been doing this a very long time and never had a problem.
Just wondering if the dial on the cross slide is what you take off the radius or the diameter.
Most likely the radius like the lathe I used in secondary school. So to take 10 thou off the diameter, you dial up 5 thou on the dial?
Low end machine tools have the dial read radius. Monarch, Lion, American, etc read diameter. I also have the DRO set up for diameter.
What degree of finish do you need to accept a seal? It looks like you got it with cutting tool.
I shoot for the smoothest I can get. I have seen some rough machined ones seal, but I don't like that.
Just out of curiosity, why did the customer not just order the Part from New Holland?
Was it not available or did they want an eye watering silly amount of money for the part?
Hi Josh what insert brand and grade is that looks like does a nice job. 😊
sandvik.
@@TopperMachineLLC Sandvik what ?? What grade ??
It is great to see you this morning. You did a nice job on the filming and the part. I do not have your skills and so I appreciate your videos all the more. Once again you have come to the rescue to help your customer. I imagine that part cost a lot of money and it would take a long time to get here. Thanks again.............from Rhinelander.
Is the distance between the two bearings critical?
On the shaft, no. The distance that is critical is in the other piece with the races.
OK...s uppose you have a shaft that is 10 thousandths over. Aside from tolerances, etc, do you move the feed wheel 10 units or 5? I guess I am asking if you are always dividing by 2?
I have my DRO set up for Diameter, and the Monarch and Lion are diameter on the dial. It simplifies life to have quality machines. The low-end machines have dials reading the radius.
@@TopperMachineLLC Thanks! Makes a lot of sense. Hope you had a Glorious 4th!
👍👍
How did you arrive at 1045 steel for the spindle? I would have thought of 4140 or even 4340 because you are replacing what was almost certainly a steel forging.
I don’t know much about suspension components but we used to machine billet crankshafts from 4340 steel (+ heat treat) for fairly high output V6 engines. Not criticizing, just asking.
I have done a lot of spindles over the years. The two common materials are 1045 and 1144. Never had one fail yet.
Looks like a miniature Stanley cup
I'm gunna a 50 year old kid and say, I kinda wish Josh's last name was Tapper.
That was an interesting job. You'd really wonder how the original shaft got broken like that, something you wouldn't expect to happen.
bearing failure actually was the cause.
@@TopperMachineLLC it looks like a brittle or fatigue failure mode almost zero ductile or plastic deformation judging by how well the two parts fit together. Maybe the original part was not heat treated correctly
If i could freehand like that... i wouldn't need all these radius tools.
Cessna likes to use castrated nuts that are fiber self locking.
I never cussed trying to get a cotter key thru that.
Kind of overkill.
You say that you can’t film some jobs, but you don’t say why?
Could be anything from proprietary technology, experimental work, customer preference/liability, the list continues.
Anyway, he's not filming. It's an electronic camera recording on memory media, not fillm.
There are a lot of reasons. Whether it is proprietary or customer asked not to have it filmed, I have to respect their wishes.
If you stop people from repairing old equipment, you may lose work you enjoy filming.
I agree, but some equipment is not worth repairing.
@@TopperMachineLLC This may be true, Josh, every job you can get in your shrinking economic work environment, every job, keeps you and your family fed. Plus we enjoy watching you use those wonderful old machines.