Damage, what Damage. Good job Mark. I had a dog take a chunk out of a leading edge on one of my control line models. But that was in a galaxy far far away. 🤭
Really a nice video. I had an almost identical repair (not my fault a tree was in my landing pattern) and mirrored your technique in the rebuild. Your use of PVA glue on the hidden ribs was an excellent way to reattach the hidden ribs. I have found that punching 3/64" holes through the sheeting along the rib tops and introducing thin CA every 3/4" or so will also give a good bond when the joints may not be readily accessible. Everybody will have a mishap in this hobby and learning how to repair booboo's is an important part. Thanks for your work.
When I rebuilt and recovered Bill Evans T Cap 21, I found that if I held a razor blade 90' to the wood and used it as a scraper, it would make the old covering bits curl up and come off easier.
Mark I’ve used standard thinners to remove the glue and most of the colour from left behind, when it’s dry you can sand it off okay,horrible covering Ive come across this very problem myself. Great repair as expected 👍🏻
I used easy coat on my T180 and it ruined the model, I couldn't get the glue off, I had to spray the model in grey primer before recovering. I tried thinners Rudy it didn't work for me it just spread the glue around, it's horrible stuff isn't it, I asked my local model shop to take it off the shelf.
That covering reminds me of "Toughlon" the glue came off the film like that, also when you over heat it. Wasn't fuel proof either. I stick with Neucover now from Value Hobby
I lost control of my scale Gloster Gladiator a few years ago on landing and collided with a club colleague's glider parked at the side, the prop spinning doing the most damge. My fault entirely, pure pilot error incompetence. My colleague , being a skilful modeller subsequently repaired the damage and had to reinstall the air brake mechanism. We, or rather he made a claim on the insurance who happily (???) paid for the material costs, although I do not remember how much it was. Perhaps the British insurance is not so generous but perhaps worth a try.
We do have very good insurance, but don't see the point in a claim, would take longer to do the claim than fix the model, and the repair didn't really cost anything, but thanks for the suggestion.
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Great video. Balsa planes are easy to repair with a little patience. Great modeling skills.
Thanks 👍
Enjoy your detailed vids very much. I've learnt some great tips & techniques over the years from you. Cheers from "Down Under"".
Awesome, thank you very much for the comment its greatly appreciated 😀
Well done again. Old school modelling at its best.
Thank you very much, pleased you enjoyed it 😀
Damage, what Damage. Good job Mark. I had a dog take a chunk out of a leading edge on one of my control line models. But that was in a galaxy far far away. 🤭
Thanks Terry, appreciate the comment. A dog, really oh wow, now that must have been a mess to repair!
Always love your videos, Mark. Well done!
Glad you like them, thank you very much
Really a nice video. I had an almost identical repair (not my fault a tree was in my landing pattern) and mirrored your technique in the rebuild. Your use of PVA glue on the hidden ribs was an excellent way to reattach the hidden ribs. I have found that punching 3/64" holes through the sheeting along the rib tops and introducing thin CA every 3/4" or so will also give a good bond when the joints may not be readily accessible. Everybody will have a mishap in this hobby and learning how to repair booboo's is an important part. Thanks for your work.
Thank you very much, pleased you liked the video, appreciate the comment 😀
Nice tips mark thanks for that ,and ya right I made the mistake of buying easy coat last year bloody nightmare never again ,all the best 🤙🤙🤙
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the comment 😀
When I rebuilt and recovered Bill Evans T Cap 21, I found that if I held a razor blade 90' to the wood and used it as a scraper, it would make the old covering bits curl up and come off easier.
Thanks for the suggestion, appreciated 😀
Great video Mark, balsa is just such a lovely rhing to work with 👍
Couldn't agree more Cliff, thanks for the kind words, appreciated 😀
Mark I’ve used standard thinners to remove the glue and most of the colour from left behind, when it’s dry you can sand it off okay,horrible covering Ive come across this very problem myself. Great repair as expected 👍🏻
Thank you for the suggestion, greatly appreciated 😀
I used easy coat on my T180 and it ruined the model, I couldn't get the glue off, I had to spray the model in grey primer before recovering.
I tried thinners Rudy it didn't work for me it just spread the glue around, it's horrible stuff isn't it, I asked my local model shop to take it off the shelf.
That covering reminds me of "Toughlon" the glue came off the film like that, also when you over heat it. Wasn't fuel proof either. I stick with Neucover now from Value Hobby
Another informative video mate. Thanks heaps.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the comment 😀
nicely done mark
Thank you very much 😀
I forgot to add before, if you dampen the topside of the balsa sheet it will curve over the ribs on its own.
That kind of film comes off reaonably well when using a hot hairdryer.
Thanks for the suggestion
Very nice repair tip. Thanks. I know why you didn’t want to record yourself covering the repair with your favorite film. 😠😠😠
Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed it 😀
I lost control of my scale Gloster Gladiator a few years ago on landing and collided with a club colleague's glider parked at the side, the prop spinning doing the most damge. My fault entirely, pure pilot error incompetence. My colleague , being a skilful modeller subsequently repaired the damage and had to reinstall the air brake mechanism. We, or rather he made a claim on the insurance who happily (???) paid for the material costs, although I do not remember how much it was. Perhaps the British insurance is not so generous but perhaps worth a try.
We do have very good insurance, but don't see the point in a claim, would take longer to do the claim than fix the model, and the repair didn't really cost anything, but thanks for the suggestion.
I wondered you did not wet the piece
Wasn't really necessary, would have just complicated the process