Dave MacLeod - Indian Face E9
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
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LOVE FROM
Paul Diffley
Hot Aches Productions
Scotland
"Like meeting a beautiful woman that's a psychopath"
And the climb is called indian face?
Isn't that every woman?
There are a good few of those about!
@@simonon-music Apparently because in the right light conditions, the line looks like the face of a native American.
such a great quote! haha
Unbelievable that this route is now 33 years old....what a tribute to the foresight and ability of JD!
Indian Face - as my song says, "free the Mountains of your mind" what else can you say..climbed in October 1986 Johnny Dawes - Legend
just watch Honnolds free solo movie and I gotta say, this made my hands more sweaty! perhaps it's cos I can relate more as a British trad climber.
good on ya Dave, top bloke. big inspiration.
Cheers to Hot Aches too. good work!
sweated all the way through jesus!!
I love this soooo much. incredible filming. love the sound choices as well. What a monster of self-assurance Dave is..
Saw jonny at stanage today teaching. What a legend, alas...I'll never be good enough to do one of his routes😅.
The ultimate trouser filling proposition terrifyingly well communicated to mere mortals. Nice job hot aches!!
Admirable patience waiting til you felt right. Many climbers make the error of worrying what others think.
so all the gear placements had screamers, and presumably an extra stretchy rope and extra light belayer! amazing to watch...
Almost makes me think it lowers the E grade... That said I'm not up there climbing above runners which are placed purely to mildly slow your fall... JD really did basically solo that thing!
this just re affirms how good Dawes is ..a monumental feat
Redhead too, as a lot of the route was climbed by him first as (I think) 'The tormented ejaculation'.
@@24934637 first half is easy tho
@@Kingofdafarm21 it's still e8 6b/c ish upto the bolt i'd say
Rope soloing on a shunt. Nice
My palms are so sweaty watching this.
That was awesome Dave!!!!!!!!
Dave McLeod + Hot Aches = awesome video.
This climb is such a testament to Johnny Dawes skill and vision.
...and psychopathy!
Great film. That had me gripped for the duration. Johnny Dawes just doesn't convey how difficult this climb is - well until he talks about it of course.
Favourite climber, awesome send
Fantastic Dave Thanks for sharing
Thanks
Good
It:s Diffwys Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.No need for foreign names
What a legend. I guess there is no need for me to climb it if it's like driving 😄
Amazing
cool video
11:52 that's one TINY protection....
This would still have been a quality video haved talked about that ONE route he didn't climb, and left it at that. Honestly I half-wished he did, to set an example.
Is it just me, or does it seem like Europe has the monopoly on hard, sketchy-bordering-on-just-free-soloing, rock climbs?
*uk
And yeah, in locations that bolts are allowed, bolts are placed typically.
Can someone explain to me why Dave has a second thinner looking rope attached to his harness? Is it to tie to his lead rope to allow for a full rope length abseil at the end?
He’s leading on half ropes
Epic pair of B@%%$! Good job, Dave.
How hard is it to get a camera in focus. Dave obvs doing something awesome. Would have been good to have respected this and got the camera in focus.
Yeah. They should go back and do it again...
why they don't use screamer like the aid climbers
is not sure it would hold but it helps with rubbish placement
Pretty sure he had about 8 more "runners" in than JD he certainly didn't have screamers.. JD you are a legend... Not that dave isn't 😅
I actually did have an early screamer
@@johnnydawesofficial I stand corrected 👋
:D
Not wanting to detract but, 4:44 - No rope protector?, cut through all the "safe looking vege" and now the rock is slowly wearing through your rope. It happened to a mate of mine practicing a route and put the complete s**ts up him when he got to the top and saw his rope half cut through!!.
Not much of an edge there at all
To quote Flight of The Conchords: "You're a Legend, Dave!"
Awesome video... so tense. ‘Climbs are the best when they only just work’ awesome
Fascinating to watch someone that good, work that hard physically and especially psychologically.
He's not a natural slab climber. Took mental fortitude
God, how I like to see a climber finishing by clutching at grass, not clipping an iron chain. Takes me back.
Totally Earth bound human on the Terre Forma!
Great climb. Not sure why the edits during the gear placements. See those, too, would be a great part of the video, too.
Insane climbing!! These British Isle tradsters are nutsto! I think if this was anywhere else in the world there would be at least a of couple bolts put in by the FA
I love seeing the screamer on the micro wire. Dave is an absolute animal!
I watched him place that and went, "Is that a screamer? Geez."
The bit that shit me up the most was when he pulled himself up onto the grassy ledge and looked down. Weird that. What a route though - defying gravity. Johnny Dawes! Say no more.
Gripping stuff! Johnny Dawes! What a man!!!? Dave climbed excellently.
Just sitting watching that I needed a chalk bag.....
There was a time where I would have considered doing a route of this magnitude (Not that I had anywhere near the level of skill required), but I would have classed it as being a 'worthwhile risk'. Now, I'd just take one look and walk away. NOPE. Massive respect to the people who climb at this level, but the probability of dying is just too much for me.
OMG, when he got to the top I just had a mental vision of him slipping on the grass!! Think I need to check my blood pressure!
Dawes's Van Gogh , maybe better go paint your own.
Spastic palsy is for real. Stay in shape and exercise all those stabilizer muscles!
Awesome stuff Dave.
12:25 "you're back on belay" :o :o
The first time I've ever seen him pumped. That is a truly terrifying place to be.
he wasn't pumped. He was scared.
You can be both
The line looks really beautiful!
When you see something that hard and that unprotected, you really wonder if trad climbing is reaching its justifiable limits. That's a real chop route - would it really be so terrible to place a couple of bolts and perhaps save lives? That said, JD was way ahead of his time - what an achievement!
It’s that there are quite strict rules in the U.K. against bolts
@@BobMarley-vl5gl That's true, but I'm questioning the rules.
If someone has climbed it without bolts then you simply aren’t good enough to climb it if you need them, it’s about respect. And ironically enough if you read about this routes history it’s all about the bolt, or not!
@@tullochgorum6323 there are places to go and relatively safely climb on bolts and there are places to trad climb. Anyone doing this route should know what they have got themselves into and it hasn't killed anyone.
@@mawilliams777 by that logic, if someone climbs a bolted route and doesn't need all the bolts, he or she can remove them, because other climbers are not good enough?
Just home after my first visit to the local climbing wall this year... my arms were like wet newspaper after the first 5 minutes. Props to Dave - he's a machine.