How to Seal Kaowool Ceramic Metal Forge Insulation with Refractory Cement
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- How to Seal Kaowool Ceramic Metal Forge Insulation with Refractory Cement. Refractory cement is used to seal over the Kao-wool or ceramic insulation blanket on many knife making and metal melting forges and furnaces. Refractory cement will increase the insulating properties of the furnace and protect from toxic fumes.
For additional information on the Devil Forge Metal Melting Furnance www.Devil-Forge.com
PINTEREST / . . #DIYeasycrafts
SO here it is a few years later and how did the cement hold up??I Is there anything that you look back and say . ah I wish I would have ......
Good to see someone doing it right, more people seriously need to be coating their Kaowool. First time I've seen someone use premixed Refractory Cement, From others I've seen it seems more common to use both a rigidizer (saitenite, ludux, bubble alumina, Mizzou, or Kast-0-Lite 3000) and finish coatings (APG-36, Plistix, ITC 100)
Should I first spray with a rigidizer? And if so do I let it cure completely before adding coat of refractory..
Yes. Also to anyone reading this wear a respirator when working around exposed refractory wool.
While u can do both the rigidizer mix I beleive 210g water 300g powder will be sufficient
I heard the rigidizer will make it too heavy and fall out don’t know maybe don’t use as much
I might recomend applying a rigidizer before the cement.
I think the rigidizer is a kind of bonding agent to help bond the fibers together.
Not sure how it is applied, never used any. But it seems that if available, use it before the furnace cement as it should
strengthen the bond with the cement and support the fiber in position before toweling on the cement lining.
That’s what they tell you, but I hear a lot of people say the moisture just makes the insulation too heavy and fall out
DO NOT USE this refractory cement to cover the kaowool in your Forge! This cement is used to mortar fire brick only! I did exactly what this video demonstrates on the exact same Forge and experienced constant bubbling from moisture trapped behind the cement. On every occasion the cement bulge had to be broken re-patched. Attempts to try and dry out the cement by several low temperature fire up still did not resolve the continuous issues of bubbling of the refractory cement. This is very frustrating. You've been warned.
thats fine, its to stop the wool from releasing particles
I own this exact same forge, came across this video the day after I ordered the exact same cement, read this comment, and said to myself, "self, you're quite capable, and you've been warned. So make it smooth, give it time to set up, and dry it slowly." It lasted about a week, then started cracking and crumbling off. I didn't have bubbling issues, but the stresses of heating and cooling back and forth, combined with putting metal in and out of the forge, caused the whole thing to start coming apart, leaving the underlying wool exposed.
It is frustrating. I was warned. I thought I could rise above. I flew too close to the sun.
I would love to see a follow-up video from the OP to see if he had the same issues. For the rest of you reading this, you were warned above, and you've been doubly warned now.
@@asmurdock damn it I just bought the same damn thing for the exact same forge. Ok, I've been warned by 2 people I wont do it.
I did the same with my forge last year. It's worth investing in a quality refractory. I use kast-o-lite 30 now, followed up with ITC 100. And now it's soooo much better.
also wear a very good mask when dealing with refractory wool. that sht is NASTY if the airborne fibers get in your lungs it never comes out and will permanently reduce your lung function.
I just bought the same forge that you have in this video (my first forge). I have been reading all kinds of conflicting things online on wether or not it is necessary to coat the wool with refractory. Most say it will not heat properly with the wool and refractory. But then read that wool without refractory is unsafe.The forge came lined with wool and also came with a powder that is a rigidizer. That I’m supposed to paint on I alsio bought 5 lbs of santanite from a website called high temperature tools. Should i use both or is the powder that came with it all i need. I know this is a little long winded but I’m very confused and just starting out I’m hoping you or someone who reads this can help in lighten me on this. Thanks in advance
Cooter use what it came with
Great question, I was searching for the answer to this my self! So many people use different thing's and not wanting cancer I really needed to find the correct one for peace of mind!!!
Yup. Same question. My understanding... You definitely need a rigidizer. It protects you from the wool. Then the cement on top of the rigidizer protects the wool from you damaging it when taking things in and out, etc. So I guess they should include a rigidizer AND cement. Not just cement.
Thanks i didn’t know you could buy pre mix
The reason you would seal the wool is so the tiny fibers don't go in the air and give people silicosis/aluminosis (that leads to pulmonary fibrosis). Toxic fumes shouldn't be any real hazard when working with the stuff.
The dust can be hazardous to the respiratory system
@@arthurianlegend352 I said that. Do you know what silicosis is?
@@notyourpersonsperson1380 sorry i meant to reply to a different profile
At first heating there may be some fumes, but then you should not be breathing superheated air, either. So don't watch the food cook, or at least 1st heat in a ventilation zone.
Thanks for the information - got my 'Devil Forge' the other day and have to do the coating - this gave me good insight into what i need to do.
Thank you for that information, does that refractory cement have large grit/pebbles in it or is it smooth powder?
Did you seal the wool around the burners on top as well? I didn’t but today when I turned it on after a few weeks it smoked and smelled weird and now I’m paranoid.
I did
Perhaps easier to tip it on one end, so when doing the ceiling the goop doesn't schlop down and make a mess.
Props on using "schlop"
I’m using this cement to cast into a slab inside of a self built forge, essentially just using this stuff around the 4 inside sides
Would a clay-sand slip work as a coating?
Can you coat the whole thing the place bricks in after?
Very helpful for first time forget
Glad it was helpful!
Do you have any reccomenadation as to the first firing? The products directions literally have you sitting there with the forge lit slowly raising temp for like 2 days solid. I can't see that being sensible.
yes he didntg mention to slowly heat it to 500 celsius to cure it.
Simple easy
Question sir... Before you applied the refractory mortar, did you apply a "rigidizer" to the Kaowool? I'm asking because I'm building a forge out of an old propane tank, and I'm trying to save a few bucks. Shoo naturally in wondering if I can skip the "rigidizer" step. Than you for the vid, and your time sir!
Sincerely,
Blair Diviak
NOOO! hehe, because the raw blankets soft, and has a lot of loose end and tears easily. Main reason is the mortar (whatever u want to call it) wont want to stick to some soft flaky surface. It needs to be hardened somewhat. there are a few ways, I used fumed silica and mixed with water. Thats the generic popular method without paying for a propriatery name product like l-lite or w.ever it is. do rgidize it or this finishing coat will not stick to your blanket.
That works well done thank you
You're very welcome!
A wet paint brush will smooth the finish out nicely, I just recoated a 6 million btu brick burn chamber that was coated several times, troweling left a very rough surface. I was stretching a half bucket of greenpatch 421 to do the job, with no instructions! I looked up instructions, and found that it could be thinned with water. Wetting the firebrick with a wet brush and cement residue made the bond much stronger, allowing less troweling to make it adhere, especially the overhead 6 square feet. It
also kept the fine dust and loose chips in place so the cement could stick better, instead of rolling off the dirt. The inspector wanted smooth, so the brushing was a huge help in getting the job to pass. Hope that helps!
Very helpful
Glad to hear that
Avec la forge a la verticale ça aurait était plus facile.. il suffit de réfléchir... lol
so should i replace the kaowool, or just get the refractory cement?
U should always coat your kaowool. It does nasty stuff to your lungs if u breath in the fiber. That being said u do eventually have to replace your kaowool
do you put the cement inside the holes the burners go through?
The cement hardens. So it might expand and contract at the holes, and damage the finish coating. So the best would be to have wool in the gaps, perhaps rigidized.
DIY,where did you get the cement and is it holding up to the heat.???..thanks
ken taylor this is a late reply to a problem you have likely already solved, but I would cruise around hightemptools and see what they have to offer. Reasonably priced and great service.
What make and size refractory cement is it???
David Murray the brand is meecos, they sell it on amazon in half gallon tubs, great for big jobs or to have plenty left for patch work when the need arises.
Can't quite see in the video, did you coat the doors as well?
Yes coated doors. Then shut and opened them while still damp to get flat seal.