Ford A/C Quick Tips #9: How to Spot an Overcharged Air Conditioning System
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- Опубликовано: 17 июл 2024
- In this video I show you exactly what overcharging your cars air conditioning does to the pressures and ultimately the cooling.
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The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. 
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These are the Parts and Tools I Recommend:
Basic R-134A Gauge Set-
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Dial Thermometer-
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Great video, very well done. I have a 2004 F150 5.4l that will not send power to the relay powering the AC coil. When applying 12 volts to the relay all is well and the system does a great job of cooling and the pressures are right where they should be according to the various charts for temp and humidity levels. How do I prove the issue is the PMC? Or should I be looking in a different direction.
Hey my guy, I'm trying to program a USED Abs module into an 07 sport trac. I've done it with both an autel and FMP, still get a code 2477 for configuration. Have been told that for this particular module (7a2z2c219e) that the old data can not be over written and I am just wasting my time (repeatedly). Hoping you can confirm this. Many thanks
I once overcharged the ac in my car causing it to cycle on and of really fast when I started to accelerate. I could feel the car shuttering from it. Took some refrigerant out and it worked fine again
] p poll m
I don't know anybody else that would take the time and effort like you do to show us this info. Thank you!
Yep the 62 degrees was the temp I was getting. Mine was overcharged too. Now it's 40. Thanks.
I was taught this by a HVAC tech. He told me under charge and over charge will trip the pressure switches. I vacuumed down my cooling system and charged it after I was having problems. He pulled out almost an extra pound.
Excellent! This is one place where " more is not better", one thing most people don't understand. Thanks Brian.
Thank you a lot for this video! Finally got my ac system working right and barely overcharged it. Your video helped me fix it amongst forums & ac psi specs that were confusing
Thanks to the experienced commenters too!
Thank you so much, very helpful information.
I had over charged my ac after changing out an AC Condenser and it wasn't getting cold. The compressor kept turning on and off, I adjusted the amount of freon and its working fine now.
Hmm that's interesting, I was expecting the high side pressure to increase more dramatically from such a significant overcharge. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos!
Good video. This is why I ended up buying a 30 lb tank of refrigerant and a weight scale so that I can put the correct amount in. I would love to have a charging station like you have but I'm just a DIY'er that fixes my vehicles and some of my friends and can't justify having one. I used to use the cans and a can tap and it was hard to put the correct amount in.
I taught myself how to do AC repair work back in 2006 by reading AC repair books and by researching on the internet. Bought the correct gauges, vacuum pump, and other tools and have successfully fixed about 15 vehicles over the years. I also got my 609 cert so I could buy R12 which I still run in one of my older vehicles.
That’s awesome!
A wholesaler told me that R-12 was going up so I bought 1200 cans for $1/can. 6 months later it went to $25
@@obsoleteprofessor2034 I bought a mostly full 50 lb tank of R12 probably about 10 years ago or so for about $250. I still use it in my 92 Chevy Cavalier.
@@obsoleteprofessor2034 that's like Bitcoin!
I am always looking to get better at A/C diagnostics. Thank you for your great informative videos. Thumbs up. Richards"Mobile" Auto and Air
Great video, my car was sitting for a long time and the AC just was not getting cold enough so now I know what to do thanks bro
The sight glass helps a lot. An under charge system will show bubbles. As it is fully charged, the bubbles go away and that's where you have to stop.
The symptoms you show can also be caused by defective engine cooling fan or dirty condenser fins. Best way to tell if a system is over or under charged is to check pressure without starting the engine with the engine temp at ambient. High and low pressure will be equal. Pressure in PSI should be very close to ambient temp in F. There are charts available in the shop manual for this test.
Retired Ford Engineer with 51 years experience fixing Ford, Mazda, Volvo and JLR vehicles in 46 different countries.
When filling the system do you keep high side closed? Looks like he's doing that. But I filled it with both open is that wrong?
@@brucewayne-ej3cx Keep the high side gauge valve closed anytime you are running the engine with the A/C on. The reason is if the A/C is on, the compressor would be pressurizing the Freon supply tank which can be very dangerous. The supply tank could explode.
@@parolajd I'm glad you told me this. Lol it's a bit late tho I did it the wrong way it worked out thank God. It did seem a little sketchy but it worked. Next time I'll do it right.
@ John Parola You should make a diy video for fords. I've always had fords along with their issues. And fix the majority of the problems myself if at all possible. This Ac compressor/ system diagnosis / fix is one I'll probably end up having a shop fix as I do not have all of the tools.
@@parolajdif the pressures aren’t equal at ambient temperature and cold engine at rest ,what this could mean Sir ( probably some obstruction, the temperature in the vents goes down to 34-36 F by the pyrometer ) ? The ambient temperature 80.7 degree F by the pyrometer and 81 F by regular wall thermometer. High side pressure is 100psi and low side pressure is 80 psi static on cold engine . All pressures are taken from the black scales in psi of the gauges. Even reversed the gauges to see if they measure properly and they are correct . The pressure- temperature chart for r134a says the pressure need to be 86.7psi at 80degrees F and 88.4 psi at 81 degrees F .
Great vid!! Very instructive. I’ll put that one in the bank!!
I LOVE THE VIDEOS, FRIEND, THANKS FOR YOUR KNOWLEDGE. YOU ARE THE BEST !!!! (Sorry, I don't speak English.)
ME ENCANTAN TUS VIDEOS AMIGO, GRACIAS POR TUS CONOCIMIENTOS. ERES EL MEJOR!!!!
Just can't beat a good tec guy...thx Brian...
Converting the low side pressure to evaporator temperature is a great tool to help visualize why the air coming out of the vents is warmer.
Initially your evaporator temp was 44 degrees. Afterwards it was 58 degrees. Obviously the 58 degree coil won't cool as well. BUT, don't confuse that with undercharging a system, i.e low suction pressure.
As he points out tho', more doesn't mean better. Great video.
Great video on a.c. pressure, explained!
Thanks for the video,great experiments of the methods....
Those auto parts quick charge don't come with fancy machine like you got, you got to depend on the analogue gauge, I guess was not paying attention to quantity , just opened it all the way, so my Honda Civic was not getting cold like to should, After watching this video, I am pretty sure I overcharged it, So i had to let some out at low side at the schrader valve , I would let some out and keep checking, saw my temp gauge starting to come down, got it down to 40 , Worked like a charm, I was going to take my civic to a shop, Glad I saw your video, Thank you Mr Brian
Another great video - thanks Ford Tech
Excellent info!
Excellent video, learned so much from you, thank you
I was able to change both high/low standard schrader valve cores that were leaking
w/o losing additional refrigerant on my 90s Honda. Thank you Mastercool!
How is that possible
@@jasonmorris2813 The tool has a built in ball valve controlled by a lever preventing the discharge of refrigerant and another part of the tool unscrews and removes the valve core aided by pressure from the system. It's a clever device using a simple procedure for removal and replacement. Sometimes they don't always work on the first try. They also make them for home A/C condenser units. Same process.
Thanks Brian another teaching stay cool bro👊🏿
Cool video and perfect demonstration💯
How to spot an overcharged A/C... the empty can of ACPro on the floor board!
😂
Thank you for this demonstration. Very insightful.
Great video! Thanks for the information!
Excellent demonstration!!!
You really do make the best videos for ford. There isn’t a video out there for CV axles on the F150’s 12 and newer. Would you consider doing one?
Appreciate this one. Good info.
After watching your other videos, I went with the little otc bottle and added it until the compressor stopped short cycling. I ran it for about 15 minutes and my windows started picking up condensation outside. I know I have a slow leak somewhere but with 200k on the beast, I don't think it will be around too much longer
Great logic, Great video. Thank you.
Thanks great vid well explained.
Thank you for making these videos
Thanks, it is very useful video and
that what i was looking for.
Definitely keeping this one!
Nice job and video like always
That a/c machine is nice.
Glad you made AC video thanks
Thank you for the video. 👍
thank you for this video
Great video. Thanks
When properly charged, weak compressor will give them same symptoms. It's hard to suck than to push and you need a good pressure drop to boil off in the evaporator.
A weak compressor can give same readings?
Great demonstration @FordTechMakULoco
Awesome video
Great clip!
Great video
I have a 2011 F250 that I bought used in 2018. I never had any AC problems and I've never added any refrigerant. Recently it quit cooling. If I put it on max cool it will eventually come on after 10 or so miles of continuous driving. I thought maybe it needed charging so I bought a can of refrigerant and connected it to the low pressure side. I DIDN'T ADD ANY REFRIGERANT, but the gauge read nearly 90. The ambient temperature was about 78 degrees F.
Very good video!!!
Yes I did exactly this last year.
Good Stuff Bud. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
great video on the subject.
question about testing the system, so once the car is nice and warm and ac system cycled for about 10 minutes, then you hook up the gauges. Now, with the vehicle running to get an accurate reading, do you let it sit at normal idle or do you bring it up to 1500-2000 rpm?
I'm trying to diagnose the system on a 99 bmw z3 with seiko seiki compressor and not sure if this is rotor vane or variable displacement type compressor.
Thanks for that info
Bruddah Thank You for teaching us! God Bless and Stay Safe! Please tell the family their Hawaiian Uncle Rick and Aunty Soon miss them.
Excellent thanks
Dude i love you man !!! Thanks for the tips man you’re the best ! Do you live in California? I’d like to meet you i have a lot of questions about my ford explorer
Great video and explanation! Ac work can be very simple once you understand how the system works but still can be confusing in certain instances. Thanks for the quick tip! Especially on a Ford! Lol
Very simple😄😄😄😄
great video guy, my 2004 f150 has a small leak on the manifold line and they wanted about 800 to replace and charge, but, last time ford left the freon in when they checked it and it blew cold for a year so i decided to try the ac pro can and put the 20 ounce and half of a 12 oz in, it's blowing cold but i have no way of knowing how much freon is in there, so i'm off to walmart to buy a 25.00 set of gauges to check it out, thanks to you i'll know if i'm overcharged............smitty
BTW: I like the new intro. 🙂
Thx..for posting
THINGS YOU always wanted to know , BUT were afraid to ASK !
Good info.
Perfect timing. I just recharged my 2006 Navigator yesterday, and by the looks of it I'm undercharged. System holds 58 ozs, and I added 4 12oz cans. System works great though, both front and rear A/C systems are blowing cold air. Thanks for the video.
Was it totally empty? Or did you just dump 4 12 oz cans in it without knowing what was in there?
Excellent video, its very easy to overcharge/undercharge with those r134a cans if not checking specified pressures under the A/C performance test procedures for that vehicle (Ambient temp, max heat load, stated engine RPM, out of direct sunlight).
humidity.
I've wanted to ask you a question about cooling. I've thought about installing a good aftermarket or something from the junkyard. A stand alone electric fan over the hottest spot on the radiator that is run / turned on by a switch in the cab. Say on a really hot day or heavy stop and go traffic I can reach over and turn on that fan to increase cooling. Would that fan block enough regular cooling with the fan off that it does the opposite of it's intended purpose?
But more is better! Good demo. Whenever I see those MONSTER 20oz or more "AC pro" cans in the parts stores I wonder how many people have dumped those into good systems. Heck, newer vehicles are full at 16oz sometimes.
And those guys will never see the high side at 350 psi, since they don't have both gauges ...😵
@Mustang Ricer6589 Not out of reach in some places, they have the small cans ready for sale at places around me. Still $$$ but it will come down in price.
Or they buy it because it says, With Stop Leak. I’ve been doing this for 40 years, there’s no such thing as a stop leak for A/C systems, only destruction.
I have 2013 f150 that was blowing cool but thought it could be colder so I used one of those cans. Now when I turn on my ac the fan goes to high speed. I'm guessing it is doing this because it is over charged? Would it be best to drain it all and just have it recharged?
@@socratese71yes
Thanks for the teaching👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🙏🙏✌✌✌✌✌
Videos are awesome they have helped my family alot.
I have 2007 Ford Explorer 4.6l 3v 4x4 no rear air 166000 miles
Ac is ice cold
At idle when its over 95 dry west Texas heat the compressor cycles normally but then randomly will cycle to on position and stay on until vehicle begins to over heat. The computer will shut ac compressor off vehicle cools down and then ac compressor begins cycling again.
Will not over heat with ac off
Where should i look
New thermostat, clutch fan, radiator flush, radiator cap, ford aux electric cooling fan added.
Just went outside turned defroster on high heat.
Compressor kicked in and it over heated
105 outside with hood open
Turned off defroster cooled down
Setting at 219f hood open nothing on
You should make a video showing how to tune the system for optimal cooling, in the dead of heat. I find that recharging to spec, and removing tenths at a time, yields some pretty impressive results. It's not a free lunch however, you sacrifice optimal output at lower temps, and make compressor cycling duty load higher. I've used other gasses other than r134a in my personal systems, and have achieved great results for super cheap.
I've always wondered if there was someone else out there that does that!! I do the same thing. I've never recharged and stopped at spec. I've always gotten really cold air conditioners from just playing with the freon level. Mine have always been coldest with less freon than spec. Is that what you've seen over the years?
@@TheVenom8343 and under charge can make it cooler. I know that in residential systems the evap coil will freeze over if the system is under charged and air will stop passing through the coil. Another issue with low charge is that you will increase compressor cycling which may decrease your fuel economy on the car and increase compressor wear.
@@pibblesnbits Yeah, it freezes up. But I throw it over to "vent" and she's thawed in 30 seconds or so. I choose to do that because my A/C will blow 28 degrees F and boy that's nice down here in hot ass MS!! Lol
I'm in MS as well. My 2014 will only blow 60 degrees out the vents. I changed the expansion valve today and same thing. What kind of freon are you using? I put 2 12 oz can which is 24 oz which is what the sticker says. My gauges read 25-30 and 15-200. So I added a extra can. Pressure went up 30/200. Temp gauge dropped to 58 or so degrees. What are your Pressure readings?what part of MS are you in?
Quick question, at Idle 86F deg. day, The pressures are ~30 / ~200. Windows closed, on recirc. Blower on high.
When I increase RPM to 1500 - 2000 it seems to cycle often, every 20 - 30 sec. Seems the same with windows open.
Is this normal?
Thank you for your professional advice and videos.
Is there any concern with potential oil added with those DIY cans? We did a can, pulled .9 oz oil, but didn’t bother adding any PAG after the recharge...the can only indicates 5-15% PGME of a 20oz can...compressor ok with the added oil? I just love the ‘propriety’ mix along with the concentrations are ‘trade secret’ according to their MSDS.
Thanks!
Like the new intro
What are the a/c settings at the time of the good pressures?like was the recirculation on or what? Just wanna know! 👍🏻
Thanks for the video! I was wondering... as for a DIYer, if lets say I overcharged my system and I got only this cheap low side pressure gauge, would that work if I just drop the pressure back into the 12oz AC can with my car shut off when system has equalized pressure of 80-90psi...? So that it doesn't get vented to atmosphere.
How are you gonna suck it back into the can? Lol
Nice ! And Cold !
The other issue people don't understand well is how dramatically ambient temperature will change absolute gas pressures. Never interpret pressure readings without adjusting for ambient temp.
Thank you for another great Ford Tech video . Is there any need to blow a little refrigerant through the low side fill line to get the air out of it before connecting it ? With the can type I have seen people blow a burst of 134 through right before connecting the line to try to remove air from the line so not pushing air into the AC system .
I've gotta take my truck to a Ford dealership because the last person to work on this truck overcharged it by a long ways... I go buy a DIY kit of freon and connect it to find the PSI over 150... I knew right away why it wasn't blowing cold air
Thanks dude
SUBSTANTIAL FordTechMakuloco
Brilliant video tutorial great thank you
FordTechMakuloco
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Very useful demo video. Thanks a lot. I have a question though. You said that the pressure in the low-pressure section is a very important readings. It makes perfect sense as most of DIYers (myself included) have only the gauge for low-pressure measurements. You also showed the "normal readings" for "this weather". So my question is what is the normal pressure in the suction area? I can see in my car this reading can flactuate from 35 to 45 PSI just because of the ambient temperature. What should I consider as normal? Thanks again.
Im so gladyou always explain yourself to many 9whatevers) should not touch automobiles at all
I know this has nothing to do with AC, I looked through and watched a lot of your vids, very nice. I have an 09 F350 Dually with the Diesel engine 6.4, I am getting a P0472 EPS A Circuit Low Voltage code, what does this mean? I know it has to do with the Back pressure, just at a loss on this. Do you have a vid on this that I missed? Is this a quick fix? Yes, the EGR has been removed 5-6 years ago without any problems. Any info would be great.
🌮👍🏼😀🥵😊👍🏼 It’s Shooting Ice Cubes Out The Vents on mine at 35 on The Low and 300 on The High Side R 134a Thank You Master Ford Tech 😀👍🏼
Thank you
Looking at your gauge pressures they stay constant, system I’ve worked on shows pressures rising and falling as clutch cuts in and out. Are they two different systems? Low side cycling circa 10 to 30 psi and high side 80 to 125 psi, ambient 70F. I can see on gauges that a lower pressure = lower temp but I also know that there is potential a min of 25psi required to run system. So reducing charge would stop it running I think? M and not make it colder? System above is correctly charged with 28oz of R134A
Please what other symptoms can be noticed without the special machine?
At 105 degrees ambient I’m getting about 38/280 psi. Cooling is not great. What would you recommend? Are my pressures too low given the ambient temperature? All the charts I see state low side should be 50-55 and high should be 330-335 at 105 degrees
I had a factory charge amount put into my F150. High pressure is @320psi and low pressure is @60psi. Any ideas? I’m thinking expansion valve?
The system held a vacuum and was charge to the correct amount of refrigerant.
Hey brother quick question, I just bought a 2016 f150 2.7 tt and it seems like the ac is not as cold as other cars I’ve had. I have it on max the whole time and it just done seem cold enough. Is there anything I can do to fix this issue?
I had a garage service my working air con come back not working they said my compressor is bad. It would turn on for a second make a very bad noise turn off. I hooked up my own air con gauge. The low side was on 100 psi WTF they overfilled it. We got it back down to 35psi. Works perfect now no noise ice cold. Dont know if any long term damage but right now its good. Makes it worse my work boss owns the garage lmao. I told him your guys nearly destroyed my air con. They are in the shit. lucky for them it was my car not another customer. Would have cost him.
Yup, looked exactly like when I overcharged mine. 110F day and it was brutal in the car. Pulled off some pressure and back to ice cold
How you pulled off some pressure?
with a recovery machine of course
@@gerardotorres8872 Straight into the atmosphere of course
Greta will be pissed! How dare you 😂
What is the 2007 ford xlt flex 5.4 ac refrigerant and oil capacity? Sticker missing under hood. Thanks
So as winter ends I went to turn on my AC (2015 mustang gt). It didn’t blow cold so naturally i picked up some refrigerant. To my surprise when I plugged it in it read overcharged. I drained refrigerant out. Ac clutch and compressor kicked on. However I constantly need to keep draining more and more out. And when it does come on only the passenger side vents cool. Mind you last time I charged the system was summer and about 85 degrees out. It’s roughy 60 degrees out now. Could the blend door actually be causing high pressure because the Freon isn’t getting properly cooled? Please help me I’m desperate at this point.
A weak compressor can give the same reading on a properly charged system?
Question??? I have a 2010 F150 5.4L & the cooling fan is running & sounding at high speed all the time. Someone mentioned to me it could be a/c pressure switch problem. Problem is, I can't find it. Any advice on where it is located? Thanks.
Hi. I'm having an issue with my 2010 mustang v6 ac compressor clutch not engaging. I'm having a hard time to find the high and low pressure cutoff switch which I suspect may be the culprit. Do these cars have them and do you know where they're located? Any help would surely be appreciated.
My brother has a 2010 Ford F150 Lariat with inadequate cooling. After correct charge is added to vacuumed system high side pressure rises to approximate normal while low side drops to near 20 PSIG and the low pressure control cuts out the compressor clutch - the compressor only stays engaged for less than 30 seconds each cycle and then cuts off, comes back on after low side pressure rises to above 40 PSIG . This repeats endlessly. The expansion valve, refrigerant lines and condenser coil have all been replaced (individually) and the symptoms have not changed. Overcharging intentionally causes the high side pressure to rise but has no effect upon the low side pressure. Any suggestions?