Love the new hair quicksilver, seriously impressed with how ready you were to rebuild the engine within a couple of weeks, also keen to see Seb’s 86 on the channel again once it gets painted
yeah interesting have had a few theories come my way, like that oil actually creates acid after sitting in an engine for a while which this one did or that it could look like that from detonation but everyone i've spoken to says they've never seen one like it i feel like it might just be inferior bearing quality and excessive wear
@@BADDTIMES I'm actually an engine reconditioner here in Melbourne, i've seen this kind of thing a fair bit, i'm guessing that those bearing shells were on the rod side correct? they cop all the abuse when it comes to compressive loads and detonation. The pitting (from what i can see in the video) is the bearing material breaking down, i've seen it happen to heaps of genuine bearing too so i dont think its a quality issue. I'd say its because the bearings have been under relatively high load and high rpm with poor oil pressure and quality which seems to have been caused by fuel diluting the oil. I'm no expert at all but if you boys need a hand or have any questions i'm happy to try help.
Just curious: how common are 7A blocks in Australia? Here (Sweden) the (generally late prod.) 7A-FE is probably the most common A variant of all. Totally get it if you were try to do things on a budget since this was unexpected. It almost seemed like a quick and dirty 7A-GE build would’ve been similar work and money when you’re already running a standalone and everything.
GO TIME! DYLAN True, but the rod/stroke ratio is actually a bit better IIRC which kinda compensates for the stroke increase. I assume you’re alluding to MRPs expensive 1.63:1 (I think?) ratio long rods and special forged pistons which are probably the best solution right now but for a stockish redline of less than 8000 rpm I don’t see why a 7A bottom end should have any serious issues. I meant to suggest going with the stock 7A crank and rods + stock GE pistons type of setup that people used to do in the olden days. Personally, I’m thinking of getting a 7A to slowly start building up with said $$$ MRP bottom end bits as a side project to have ready either when I feel like it or the Blacktop I’m swapping to now craps the bed for whatever reason. Then again I think Tsuchiya’s 7800 rpm peak hp Tec-Arts 20V BT 7A-GE sounds absolutely perfect for a street car so I’m not really chasing after high revs. To each their own for sure!
Sounds like stop time
theres ya problem right there, wrong kind of seeds - not oem
Love the new hair quicksilver, seriously impressed with how ready you were to rebuild the engine within a couple of weeks, also keen to see Seb’s 86 on the channel again once it gets painted
Missed yet another premier this is so sad
F in the chat
glad you decided to take it out before shit got too hectic. well done for being sensible
Always better than waiting for an explosion 😅
Big motivation to get my Corolla on the road. Also, sick to see you turning this into an opportunity to make your car even better!
Just sending.... a little love for Matt... LOVE 💘 😚
Thank you 😩💖
i had this exact same issue with a single cam KA. luckily twin cam KAs are a dime a dozen unlike a 4Age soooooo
Weird flex
GO TIME! to be fair your cars are 100x cooler than anything i have. engine in or out of the car
@@razztash9440 hahahaha thanks! We're just playin
thats not from rust on the bearing shell, they olny have a steel backing plate the actual bearing material is made of copper and alloy.
yeah interesting
have had a few theories come my way, like that oil actually creates acid after sitting in an engine for a while which this one did or that it could look like that from detonation but everyone i've spoken to says they've never seen one like it
i feel like it might just be inferior bearing quality and excessive wear
@@BADDTIMES I'm actually an engine reconditioner here in Melbourne, i've seen this kind of thing a fair bit, i'm guessing that those bearing shells were on the rod side correct? they cop all the abuse when it comes to compressive loads and detonation. The pitting (from what i can see in the video) is the bearing material breaking down, i've seen it happen to heaps of genuine bearing too so i dont think its a quality issue. I'd say its because the bearings have been under relatively high load and high rpm with poor oil pressure and quality which seems to have been caused by fuel diluting the oil. I'm no expert at all but if you boys need a hand or have any questions i'm happy to try help.
Great work man! Love the videos so much
Thanks homie 💖 great to see ya here
ARP headstuds if you’re reving it? Don’t remember what you did in the head rebuild.
It's not revving much higher than standard! It'll be fine with standard head bolts 🥰
Just curious: how common are 7A blocks in Australia? Here (Sweden) the (generally late prod.) 7A-FE is probably the most common A variant of all.
Totally get it if you were try to do things on a budget since this was unexpected. It almost seemed like a quick and dirty 7A-GE build would’ve been similar work and money when you’re already running a standalone and everything.
Quick and dirty isn't the aim here, we'd rather a cleaner standard-ish 4age build 🥰 and even a basic 7a build is still quite expensive haha
7a's also have longer stroke so less happy doing revs unless you put bulk cash into them
GO TIME! DYLAN True, but the rod/stroke ratio is actually a bit better IIRC which kinda compensates for the stroke increase. I assume you’re alluding to MRPs expensive 1.63:1 (I think?) ratio long rods and special forged pistons which are probably the best solution right now but for a stockish redline of less than 8000 rpm I don’t see why a 7A bottom end should have any serious issues. I meant to suggest going with the stock 7A crank and rods + stock GE pistons type of setup that people used to do in the olden days.
Personally, I’m thinking of getting a 7A to slowly start building up with said $$$ MRP bottom end bits as a side project to have ready either when I feel like it or the Blacktop I’m swapping to now craps the bed for whatever reason. Then again I think Tsuchiya’s 7800 rpm peak hp Tec-Arts 20V BT 7A-GE sounds absolutely perfect for a street car so I’m not really chasing after high revs. To each their own for sure!
That bearing is from lack of lubricant.
I run the same pump on my 4a and it runs heaps of pressure. Tops out my omori pressure gauge
heartbreaking, the theory is too much fuel thinned out the oil or was it water that thinned it? hope to see you up n rippin soon
Fuel was the culprit unfortunately
Thanks man 💖
It did sound abit knocky on the last vid
ohhhhhhhhh boccy po box
Where'd you get the flywheel from?
it's an xtreme flywheel part no. fty007cl for the 215mm or fty009cl for the 200mm
S13 tings
Oh god oh fuck
It's rev timee
Oof
big ouch
4th comment yeayuhhh 😂👌