Nikon Z6II - 6 Month Impression
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
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Regarding the metering problem, one of you guys gave me a great solution: use Center-weighted Metering and change Custom Setting B3 to Average. It works basically like Matrix Metering but does not change to spot when using subject tracking!
Thanks for your footage here I will really follow this over and over again. I am at my wits end and so I will persevere for a bit longer.
I would be grateful to see your photos to see what you are taking. I don't yet do instagram. Thanks for the link to the prints...I really want to see lots of examples of the good dynamic range. I want to take photos with more gradation in tones...not so much black...any advice on this?
@@wikedwhich1 To get good tones, make sure to expose the scene as far 'to the right' as possible but without blowing the highlights. After that it all comes down to good editing! :)
That Z6ii is a low light monster.
Setting it to Auto ISO instead of choosing it yourself, makes your middle of the night shots look like they were shot at high noon.
First got a Z6, after 2 weeks shooting with it, I sold decades worth of Nikon DSLRs and lenses.
After buying most of the Z /S prime lenses, I purchased a Z6ii. Now my original Z6 is my backup camera.
Good luck with yours, thanks for posting the video.
Yeah it really is! Although I had some complaints in this video, I've been loving my Z6II for the past years or so (I got mine in Nov 2020). I have no regrets and have also replaced most of my F glass with Z glass. :)
Best Z lens recommended for Landscapes?
I love my Z6- these mirrorless nikon cameras really changed the game when it comes to night time photography - It is a LOVELY system
Glad you love it!! I feel the same way about the Z cameras. :)
My D500 meters the same way as the Z6II and never bothered me at all. The metering calculation takes into account the position of the focus point. It also applies more weight to that area the smaller the focus point. In other words, if you're in single point focus it will have a more dramatic impact than if you were in dynamic 25.
Interesting, I'll have it to try it out on a D500. In either case, I wish this could be turned off. To me focusing and metering are two unrelated things.
I can only add that the Nikon dslrs were 100% photo centric and hence the metering was geared for that - the Nikon Zii was created as a full hybrid camera where metering must work effectively for video to - hence the standard subject tracking will in my opinion, give more weight in the metering to the subject - this will especially be needed for vlogging - which has its own niche - I’m wanting to upgrade from my incredible D750 which I’ve been using for several years but too be honest I’m starting to gravitate towards Sony where one just doesn’t have to hassle with autofocus - I love the Nikon ergonomics but I’m just so not into the autofocus complexity🙂
Ah, that is a very good point! Still, the video and photo features are very well separated in the camera. There is a Photo Shooting Menu and a Movie Shooting Menu with separate selections for metering, focus, etc. Even exposure settings and control customizations are saved separately between photo and video mode. It very well may be better to meter this way for video/vlogging, but in my opinion Nikon should make it an option that can be selected separately between the two modes, just like every thing else.
I don't think the AF is more complex than Sony. In fact, I feel it's pretty much the same (though my experience with Sony cameras is limited) on than the way one accesses subject tracking.
Thanks for the Tip! I have a Z7II since it launched, but due the ongoing pandemic didn't use it much. Had a shoot yesterday and use eye-AF for the model tracking. And the metering wasn't how i wanted it to meter in that particular light (i.e matrix) - i ended up remembering you covering this on your mirrorless camera in one of your video's and tracked it down. And here it is. Your tip on the custom B3 setting along with center-weighted mtering fixed itNow the camera behaves in this subject tracking mode as i am used to on my Nikon dSLR's. I think i will take it 1 step further and implement this in one of the custom settings (U1-U3) on the dial. So i can quickly switch to that without fiddling with the settings on an ad-hoc basis.
Also long-term Nikon DSLR user (D700 since launch with a D810 on the side since early 2015) and yeah. Most of my gripes have been around the tracking and the metering as a result linked to tracking as well.
So glad to be helpful! The tip was given to me by someone else in a comment. We are all learning! :)
Came back to this video. Thanks to you I looked into Nikon lately with the Z fc. I didn’t like the build quality but was amazed by the camera and learned the concept behind the Nikon UI/UX. Sent the camera back and decided to pay just a couple hundred bucks more for the Z5 with the 40mm Nikkor. Would never have thought about Nikon without you, so thank you 😉
Glad to hear that! Yeah, the Zfc is cool for what is, but for better build quality and ergonomics the Z5 and up are a much better choice! I really want that 40mm but it's totally sold out everywhere here in Japan. Gonna have to wait a bit for it! :)
Nice video. I had a D810 and I loved that camera, but I feel my Z6II feels like a better user experience despite having less resolution.
Glad to hear that! Overall, I love the user experience as well. Just a few things that bug me, which honestly could be fixed with just giving the user the option.
The Z lens is crazy sharp, wow.
It really is!! Though, I was a bit surprised how much distortion it has. Much more than my old 24-70 f/2.8G (non VR). But I guess that was a sacrifice for overall image quality and size, and the distortion can easily be fixed in camera or in post. I guess for more things it doesn't matter, but I shoot a fair bit of 'geometric' subjects where it really matters to me. Anyway, it's a great lens!
@@EYExplore Would love to see something on what you've been doing to control the distortion on the new 24-70 f/2.8.
@@lameaim It's very simple, I turn on the Auto Distortion Control in the camera. However, when I open the raw files in ACR, the distortion control is default to off, so I have to enable it again (if I want it). And that's it! :)
Everyone, it seems to me, undersell these cameras when they compare them to DSLR’s… the difference to me is night and day and I would wholeheartedly recommend changing from DSLR to mirrorless. Here is a brief list:
1. Major autofocus improvements in frame coverage, accuracy and aids like eye AF.
2. IBIS makes your prime lenses stabilized.
3. Much quieter and even silent operation is possible.
4. Composing with the rear screen with no AF-speed penalty is wonderful.
The combination of these factors make the camera such a great improvement. The AF improvements are the most significant game changers though… the accuracy is much improved, the eye AF is such a big help in shots of people, and the ability compose and focus without re-composing is huge.
Finally, on benefit I have not heard from many people is that I am cropping less and this makes the resolution go even further… I had a 24 MP D750 but I would frequently end up with 12-17 MP finished photos… it is early but I have a feeling I will have way more 20-24 MP photos with the Z6 ii and this is due to being able to reliably and quickly focus on elements away from the center of the frame.
I agree with you on all points. Though I have some qualms with the camera, I do think it's a huge step forward. I'm hoping the Z9 fixes the few issues I have with the Z6II. As for cropping, that's interesting. I haven't see it affect how often I crop my photos. :)
@@EYExplore it's probably my inexperience with shooting but what was happening was that I was, in faster moving situations, prioritizing autofocus accuracy over composition, say at an event. I found that I cropped a bunch into the frame because I was not confident with my outer autofocus points and didn't have the time to nail the focus an the composition. I feel like I will be able to focus more on composition with the Z6 II given how it nails focus even near the edge of the frame. I am stunned at how accurately it focuses.
@@gingrai00 Fair enough. That makes sense! :)
Enjoyed this video and found it very educational. I own the Z6ii and couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong. Been shooting since my D80 days many years ago. This is my first large format mirrorless, and boy what a learning curve. I still have my Nikon1 V3 and my D850. But I must say that the Z6 is joyful experience. Both in IQ and less weight. These complaints are trivial and Nikon hit it out of the park with this big boy toy!
Thank you! Glad to hear that! I agree that all of my issues are pretty trivial. My Z6II is my main camera these days. I love it! I'm eagerly awaiting the Z9 though! :)
thanks for doing this video.
I had been debating which camera to replace my D7000 with, and after watching a few reviews, I am going to make the leap into the Z system. It was a difficult decision between the D500 (still a great option for Wildlife) and the D6ii
Glad to be helpful! I think you should enjoy the Z system though it takes some getting used to. I have not looked back! :)
This metering issue is the biggest one. Thank you for pointing this out. I also didn't understand it when shooting D750 and Z6. Nikon should give an option to separate metering from focus point.
Glad I'm not the only one to notice this! I feel a bit like I might just be hallucinating the whole thing, haha!
I can't speak to the D4 model but I have a D500 and it measures the same way Z6II does it and it's never bothered me at all. I have one of the FN buttons programmed for AEL if I really need to hold the exposure.
@@Ed-ve9of You are right but in Z cameras it is confusing. In Auto Area AF you have area marked as red L-letters almost on entire screen. This give an idea that this is the area of focus and metering. But when you put a tracking point on that then you have confusing change of metering. You can't make it smaller or larger like in Fuji system for example. It just it what it is :-) and when you switch from other focus mode (AF-S or AF-C) the red-area-square is actually corresponding with metering and focusing point so that is why in Auto Area AF you can be confused. It looks like metering inside of metering :-)
So workaround should be like this IMHO:
1. Set Auto Area AF in Camera with Matrix Metering
2. Set Exposure parameters
3. Lock the exposure with AE-L button
4. THEN put a tracking focus point in the middle
5. Change focus point position whenever you like
6. Press button to focus
7. Press the shutter
@@Ed-ve9of Interesting. I've used a D500 a bit and haven't noticed this, but it's been a long time since I've last used one. I'll have to experiment a bit.
I think I found the solution: change Matrix Metering to Center Weighted and set b3 ([b3: Center-Weighted Area] in z6 mk1) to Avg. This will keep the exposure until you change the framing with the Auto-ISO ON. Second option is to go to full M mode and keep Matrix Metering.
I'm still shooting with my 10 yrs old D800. Seriously thinking of getting the Z6ii since Nikon will not repair my loose power button nor replace the dropped off gaskets.
Yeah, they stop servicing them eventually. My D3 has a dead shutter but there is no hope to fix it.
Sony solved the problem with the metering adding, apart from “Multi”, the “Entire Screen Average” option. I think the second option is what you would like to have in your Z6. “The exposure will be stable even if the composition or the position of the subject changes.”
Yep, Nikon has that too and I use it. I was not aware of at the time of making this video. :)
@@JoeHan268 You mean was that feature added in a firmware update? I don't think so. It was always there but I just didn't know about it when I got the camera.
Nice moment at 8:44! Glad you caught that! Lol
Yeah! But I was a bit late. My reaction speed was poor haha. :)
@@EYExplore you'll get em next time!
@@anatomicshutter3975 Hehe :)
Inconsistent metering - I'd counter, that by saying that, you mean it is consistent with your expectation, but has a decent rationale in another logic that is equally justifiable (but not mine). I would never shoot auto ISO nor auto WB for that matter. 45 years of matrix metering and manual exposure experience, and only recently I discovered "expose for the highlights". This gives very consistent series of exposures as long as the same peak light area is in the frame. With camera on A, you could shoot a panorama and be surprised about the consistency of exposure. This will however make most photos look a bit underexposed and you may want to set compensation at 1 or 2 stops under. If you compensate the relative darkness of the image in Lr, then lower the white point in the tone curve before you start messing with exposure. Grab the ultimate top right point of the tone curve and slide it horizontally left so the histogram looks like it was exposed to the right. If the subject had limited dynamic range, then you can raise the black point too. Now you told Lr to remap the 14 bits gradation to Lr's internal representation differently and you still have full range in the exposure and other correction sliders.
Fair enough, by 'incosistent' I just mean that you're pointing the camera at the same scene and yet the metering is different, but the issue is that it weights the subject tracking spot even during Matrix Metering. I shot on Nikon SLRs (D300, D3, D4, D5, D850) and non of them do this when using Matrix Metering with 3D Tracking.
But anyway, I found a nice solution thanks to another commenter's suggestion: use Center-Weighted metering and change Custom Setting B3 to Average. It works basically like Matrix Metering but ignores the subject tracking point.
Anyway, we all have our ways that work for us, and my experience is of course mine alone. I only intend to share this on RUclips, not make it sounds like gospel. :)
@@EYExplore - excellent and thanks for the response. You captured the essence of why "we" may want to shoot with "manual" exposure. The fluctuations that you highlight are big, indeed. With the advance of AI in cameras, potentially based on some form of "computer vision" (a branch of AI). Basically, in many cases we don't know why the camera does what it does when automatic. It should be repeatable, though.
In my case, when I anticipate these fluctuations, I take my Sekonic lightmeter (758) and either measure a couple incident directions, or measure subject dynamic range with the spot meter. Fixed ISO and WB, manual exposure and it's all good. The benefit of manual is also that your shots are consistent between them. Our cameras may actually have fixed ISO, but they have at least two amplification levels between the "camera" and the sensor. Especially around the amplification switch-point, you get a different feel from different exposures (EV settings).
Your shots in these alleys - nice - will all need the same exposure and metering once per alley will suffice. Try "expose for the highlights" (formally "Highlight-weighted metering") and fire two additional shots that over-expose by 1 and 2 stops.
Ja tez mam Z6ll a Ty masz wiernego widza, dzięki 🙌
Ja tez jestem ci wdzięczny! :)
U solved the issue of metering. Because i notice it always switch exposure, even i didn't change scene
Yeah, I mentioned it another video. I now use Center-weighted metering and change Custom Setting B3 to 'Average.' It works perfectly for me! :)
nice tuto
- is matrix metering improved in recent V1.4 with subject tracking ? would have fix iso (instead of auto), no ev compensation help ?
- do you activate any menu for 5-axis stabilization (VR...) for night photo ?
- did you use subject tracking for photographying arch with 1sec expo ? i would have used AF-S single point
- for sport photo (skaters,...), would you use your slow mode with M 1/60 auto iso quickly changed to 1/1000sec ?
- i have programmed your fast and slow modes on U1 and U2. Not you ? these contain several other setups (shutter speed, aperture, Fn, auto iso,...) which are sometimes wrong when we start from mode A switching on the camera. So, U1 contains all we need.
-Not sure, I haven't used Matrix Metering for a long time.
-I use Center Weighted Average. If you fix ISO but leave shutter or aperture on then it makes no difference. The metering is just how the camera reads the light.
-I always keep VR on, even on a tripod (it causes no issues for me).
-Yes, I did, but I also used back button focus, so once I focused where I wanted I let go of the back button and took multiple photos without additional focusing.
-Good question. Yeah, I would prefer to do that than change the min-shutter setting in the menu.
-I never used the U1/2/3 modes. I find it confusing to remember what each mode is fore and where it is on the dial. I find it much easier to just switch between Aperture/Manual. And now that I have a Z9, I can use the MODE BUTTON again! No more dial! Which is something I was complaining about in this video! :)
hello, when, on left of pictures you write metering average, it means center weighted average ? I thought it was matrix metering. do you have a tuto explaining that mode ? why is it better ? because if background is too dark, it just tries to expose for subject very often at center of screen instead of surexpose the photo ?
@@marclabro It might be a mistake. In this video I'm pretty sure I was using Matrix Metering. But, these days I DO use Center-weighed Average, and then I change setting B3 in the custom setting menu to 'Average'. I talk about it here: ruclips.net/video/nGswIrIlXRs/видео.html
2:20 thats really how you should have been shooting from the beginning. Dont use aperture priority stick to M - Nikons auto iso is excellent (on DSLR not sure about MC)
Yeah, but like I explained my A + Auto ISO works great for high speed situations, because I can just set a minimum shutter speed and be done with it. The only thing that I often switch from 'slow' subjects to 'fast' subjects and that is annoying to do on this camera with the dial. The old mode button made it super easy.
And in fact it was faster! Because I would leave M set to 1/60 for slow shots, and Aperture mode was at least 1/250 (min shutter speed in the Auto ISO setting) for fast shots. I could change from one to the other without moving my eye away from the viewfinder or my hands off the camera (all done on the right hand).
Using M all the time, if I want a fast shutter, I have to scroll from 1/60 to 1/250, which is 6 clicks on the dial vs. one click my way. This is a small thing, but in street photography those few moment of messing with the camera can easily lead to missing a good moment.
I explain this in details in this video: ruclips.net/video/20HtSDYsfXo/видео.html
@@EYExplore - if you are shooting in an environment with constant available light, then I would shoot manual with fixed ISO and fixed white balance. The advantage is that all your shots in that site have the same tone and feel. In e.g. wedding photography where your main subject has a white dress (or white skin) I would set A with fixed ISO and set "metering for the highlights". As I generally shoot RAW only, I always have WB=Cloudy with Nikon. Because WB is just a number for Lr to open your file and the number doesn't change your raw file photographic data. Expose for the highlights does take almost individual photosite spikes into account (it will ignore the hottest part of the sun in the frame) and consequently your shots seem a bit bland on first sight. This is easily corrected by lowering the "white point" - you then lose, say, 2 f-stops dynamic range but still have enough left. If you use C1, forget the white point adjustment as their exposure engine is messed up. Introspection made me aware I actually want the old Hasselblad 500 series Zeiss lenses' EV setting with constant EV exposure adjustment that I had in the 70s/80s.
In short, "auto" can give you very differently exposed, and in relation with that tinted, shots and these need a lot of work in post to get them even in the first place. I have RfC-asked Nikon a few times to give me a constant EV dial in M. They are working hard and have their priorities - so I'm still waiting.
@@jpdj2715 Yeah, but I don't usually shoot in a fixed lighting environment, not for street photography. When I shoot events or portraits, I usually shoot on full manual for the reasons you state. But this video is not about that, it's about street photography. :)
As for WB, I just leave it on auto since I'll be changing it anyway when I edit in post.
@@EYExplore - it's all fine and a matter of preference within the great dynamic range these cameras have. If you shoot on an average London day, it may be grey all day and manual would work extremely well in the streets. As to auto WB, it doesn't change your raw file, just the WB number in the meta data of that file and you ask the computers in your camera to figure the number out. I don;t think you or I will notice the added latency but it's there.
One overlooked aspect of Auto is that it can kill the mood of the site where you shoot. Try a beautiful sunset at Auto-WB versus your camera set to Cloudy. The latter will get a much better sunset mood.
In case you shoot SOOC JPEGs, that makes a big difference.
For real always grateful for the videos ahahah please do more walk through shoots
Thanks for watching! Will do more for sure! :)
I am not sure if the metering would be a huge issue since you could see your exposure through the EVF real time… Maybe its just me.
It is still an issue, because it still takes time to mess with it. My D4, which does not have an EVF, takes less messing around to get the exposure right. And I would also add that the EVF is not very well representative of the final image. It's close, but not perfectly 'what you see is what you get.'
Funny I’ve used the z6ii for a while and since I’m in manual, even manual ISO always, I’ve never noticed this issue.
Not sure which issue, the metering issue? After this video I solved it by not using matrix metering and instead using full frame average. Then the metering works great! :)
@@EYExploreyep the metering. Oh yeah full frame average is better! Good tip.
i can't believe how pink the sky is????
Yeah, it was amazing!! :)
This is the best talk on the problem that I have and why I am wavering..whether to go back to the D750 or not...I really find these problems almost too hard to comprehend. I like the direct experience of taking photos not having to work out these really hard difficulties. I feel I need someone to help ...BESIDE ME...I get really put off by these things
Though I mentioned the problems, I am totally sold on the Z cameras. I use them exclusively now and they are indispensable for professional work compared to my D4. They simply allow me to do things faster and more efficiently, which is a huge plus despite the handful of nuisances. :)
@@EYExplore OK Thanks...I am realising how much I have improved in my photography since buying the D750 about 4 years ago...I do love to create slightly different photos with a creative slant which is as far as I can be an intuitive use of the camera..I am not sure at all how I am going to fare with all the bells and whistle of this sor of computer/camera.!! ...I expect I am just going to have to knuckle under and practice, watch You Tube videos and make mistakes a lot!!...At the moment Ive had to completely upgrade my computer to try and introduce Lightroom to Nikon Z6. It hasn't worked yet as Lightroom won't play at all...He is in the wrong place and refuses to come out!! Sulky chap!!. So all the editing is not being done and my photos look ghastly. I find them too clear! not enough gradation mostly . But Ive only done two shoots so its probably a question of learning...and trusting that if you say what you've said, then you must have a point!
@@wikedwhich1 Yes, it's just a matter of exploring the possibilities! :)
A little bit OT. But have you tried mounting the PD sling under the camera instead of the right side? Then you can wear it cross-body (sling-style) and it's WAY more comfortable. Especially since you have the wide sling. Can't imagine it is comfortable having it around the neck?
I can wear it cross body just fine as it is, which I regularly do when I'm shooting less. I don't like mounting it that way because sometimes I need to use a tripod and this gets in the way. Thanks for the tip though! :)
@@EYExplore ah ok 👌. Works fine with tripods as well ☺
Really liking the video from z50. Is it with kit lens? Doesn't look too digital
Yes, it's with the 16-50mm kits lends. I'm very impressed with the Z50! :)
Interesting video - the way you are shooting in the street at night, I am not sure why you are using Auto Area AF or Subject Tracking for that matter?
In your example where you focus on the light and get one meter reading and then focus on a dark corner and get another using Subject Tracking - you'd be better off using Single Point AF in both instances and then you meter would not be adversely effected. Subject tracking is supposed to be within the Auto Area mode because it is a way to break away from Auto Area when it is not operating correctly - e.g. if you are shooting a portrait session and the Eye Detect AF has trouble locking on to a subject's eye for whatever reason, you can then quickly switch (using Function buttons) to Subject tracking and use the joy stick to place the square on the subjects face.
If you are shooting night street/landscape shots you should use Single Point AF almost exclusively.
Happy shooting :)
I'm using both Auto Area AF and Subject Tracking. I want to use subject tracking only, but since it's a sub-mode of Auto Area AF it does not stay active all the time.
I don't see why it can't be a separate setting. 3D Tracking was its own setting in Nikon cameras for years, every since the D3. I really don't like Auto Area AF and have 0 need for it. I just want subject tracking all time, and have it not affect metering at all (just standard matrix).
Single point is fine if nothing is moving, the thing is that in street photography, the subjects are often moving. Not always, but enough that AF-C is necessary, and with AF-C ideally tracking because I don't necessarily want the subject to stay in the same part of the frame.
For risk of sounding like an arrogant jerk, let me just say that I've been doing this for over 10 years now, and I have my way that has worked for me extremely well on Nikon SLRs over this time. It was called 3D Tracking, and it was its own standalone mode in the camera. It was perfect, exactly what I needed in 99% of cases for what I shoot. Subject Tracking is basically this and it should just be its own fleshed out mode with sub-options like focus point size and weighted metering on/off. I cannot fathom a reason why it was crammed in as a sub-mode for Auto Area AF. I mean, it can certainly be there too, but it should be it's own standalone mode.
If Nikon were to add that to this camera, it would be pretty much the perfect camera for me and my use case.
@@EYExplore I understand what you are saying and it makes sense for certain shooting environments - namely when the need arises to actually track a subject. For the static shooting that you are doing in this video, you would be much better served by using Single Point AF - better focus accuracy and as nothing is really moving there is no need to have a tracking function active - in this mode the meter will work as you desire.
For an action shooter, I can see a scenario where a dedicated Subject Tracking Mode could be useful, but it definitely should still also be accessible from the Auto Area AF mode and frankly on the Z6II and Z7II is should also be available in the Wide Area AF Mode so that when shooting people in either Auto Area or Wide Area the user can quicly switch to the subject tracking box to direct the camera when it is not choosing that correct aspect of the subject.
Again, I see what you are saying, but for static shooting like the examples given, single point is the way to go.
@@baronsilverton6504 I get what you mean for static shooting, but the thing is I have to be always ready for something that's moving. That's how it is with street photography. You have no idea what you're going to be encounter so have to be ready. It can certainly stay in the AA-AF mode accessible via OK. It should also be it's own mode.
Again, it worked awesome on my D4, and see no reason why it can't work on the Z6II. :)
Great video! I’m loving my Z6ii. So you use M, Auto ISO, Aperture 2.8(or whatever your lens is) and then just switching your Shutter Speed? I’ve never used noticed my metering changing
Yeah, you got my settings exactly right! And in many cases I don't see any problems either. It only happens in high contrast situations like the one in the video. It really depends on the subject.
@@EYExplore By any chance do you have menu setting e4 set to “Subject and background“ for auto ISO sensitivity? If you try “Subject only” does it act the same way?
@@scottdembek The E settings only apply for flash photography so this is not relevant I think.
Do you think the Z6ii would be better or worse than D750 for focusing on moving subjects? I got invited to photograph the circus, and I've done it before for them with D750, it was good, but difficult to photograph all the moving acts and focus/recompose, over and over, my fingers were hurting a lot from holding focus. If Z can do all that automatically and I can just press the shutter that would be a miracle, but many say that tracking moving subjects on DSLR is still a lot more reliable today.
I haven't used the D750 much but I reckon The Z6II is better, especially in low light, like at a circus. It's better than my D4 for sure. But I don't recommend using the auto area focus on any camera in a place like a circus. For the D750 I recommend using 3D Tracking. Have you tried it? On the Z6II, the equivalent mode would be Subject Tracking AF.
I’ve owned both, and the Z6ii tracking is much better if only because the focus points cover the whole frame. With the D750 they’re all bunched up in the middle.
I have fewer overall missed shots with the Z6ii.
I also found the same issue with focus tracking/metering/exposure compensation on my Z5. I also have an F5 and D3, so for consistency and ease of use, switching from one to another, I use single point centre focus and recompose for all, with matrix metering. You can also set it to either lock exposure or not when focusing. Works for me, give it a try. Also, if you ever want to sell your D4, give me first option to buy :) Keep it up!
I thought this as well. Immediately thought that this is something using AE Lock would solve.
I think I'll give that a try for scenes without much motion. On the other hand, the regular Auto Area AF works for more scenes for me. It's only when I want to focus on a specific thing do I use subject tracking (on my D4 I used 3D Tracking 100% of the time). Oh and the D4 stays with me to the grave, haha!
@@EYExplore ruclips.net/video/lWIoYOv9kRg/видео.html
Take a look at the link above for the best info on Z autofocus etc.
Ricci is a teacher at the Nikon School UK, and if he can’t answer your specific questions you pose in your video then no one can. Send him an email, I’m sure he would be happy to help you out!
@@duncanthorn6338 Thanks! Great tip! :)
Regarding the mode issue, couldn't you setup the function button to handle that?
My D3s could do what you're saying once I setup the custom menu. Been a year since I sold it 😥
For sports I had a slow and fast menu and it was a quick hold func. twist dial, shoot. Tryna remember, I think I made custom auto iso values and used A mode. I know eventually I went to strictly M mode and switched on auto iso when needed via custom menu work around since it didn't have a easier way to do auto iso.
Yeah I think on the Z6II the physical dial is the master, so you have to use it to change modes. No shortcuts allowed. But it's not a huge deal. I just A in the day time, and M at night. No biggie. :)
I wanna go back to Japan and visit BIG and Yodobashi Camera :D
:)
Why not set the dial on A(aperture) and the shutter on automatic OR the dial on S(hutter) and aperture on automatic so you will always have the correct exposure?
That's what I do no? I usually use Aperture mode + Auto ISO. But anyway, it's not the exposure is going to be correct all the time when you use auto like this. The camera can make mistakes, especially depending on the metering mode. It's why we have the exposure compensation button. :)
@@EYExplore No. you said only using the button on M.
@@edwardjmw Right after the first shot I explain that sometimes I use M and sometimes I use A. And in both cases I'm using Auto ISO, which means the exposure is automatic. But I say I keep it on M because switching is annoying on the Z6II (compared to D4/D5). In any case, on PSAM you can have auto exposure if you are using auto ISO, which I am.
If you want to know the details how I set the exposure, I recommend watching this video which actually about this topic: ruclips.net/video/20HtSDYsfXo/видео.html
It only makes sense that metering would switch to spot metering when you go to subject tracking. You wouldn't want it to meter off a lamp and your subject be too dark.
It does make sense... for some situation. It does not make sense for all situations. The photographer should be able to choose which they prefer. Anyway, I found a great workaround thanks to a tip in someone else's comment. I included it in our last video as well.
You can set the camera to Center-weighted metering, and then use Custom Setting B3 to change center-weighted to 'Average' which meters the whole frame, not too different from Matrix Metering. In this mode the metering always stays the same, even when using subject tracking.
So, the option exists in the camera. I just wish it was more easily accessible and intuitive in the first place. :)
Munue is overly complicated. Learn to use i menus for quick change. Now on to Ui,2,3. Set one top Manual and aperture + shutter of your choice. Same with U2, mode of choice aperture, iso , and anything else. I use U3 for back button focus + A mode... I have been doing this 65 years,35 mm to 4x5, and it took me 4 weeks to figure all this.
Eh, I like my way. It works for me. Glad your way works for you! :)
Buy a used Z7ii, better resolution & highlight recovery.
Actually, I also had a Z7II for a while as well. Both are great but the Z6II is better in low light in terms of AF and DR. But anyway I got a Z9 so I solved my issues with a stupid amount of money lol. :)
I have shoot with z5 and D700 on wedding side by side and to be honest i didn't like the files comez from Z5 they looks more of a digital looks when you zoom in On the other hand Dslr files looks more crisp sharp and look real to me. Anybody noticed side by side..?
I haven't shot with the Z5, but I'm interested in trying!
I just bought the Z5. No complaints about the images, they look great. I’m using manual Nikkor AIS lenses.
use U1 and U2 for your settings Fast and Slow
I don't really see the point. These settings control so much more than just exposure (e.g. image quality, resolution, etc.). To me this is too elaborate for such a simple thing. I like my way much more. But, if it works for you, that's great! :)
@@EYExplore Oh may be I misunderstood your issue, I will watch again (y)
@@EYExplore On the way to Shinjuku Kabukicho area with z6ii 50mm 1.2z 🤩🤩
@@Sajal89 No worries! :)
@@Sajal89 Nice!! :)
I have a Nikon D750 with a Tamron 24-70mm F2.8 G2 lens, I'm thinking about upgrading to a mirrorless camera, in this case the Nikon Z6 II.
I've seen several videos that say we have to update the lenses, with TAP-in Console.
Did you do that?
If I buy the Nikon Z6 II (body only) and put the Tamron in, will it work well for both video and photo?
Will I have compatibility issues? will it work at 100% with a good auto focus?
I did not need to do anything to use my old lenses (mostly Nikon). I don't even know what a TAP-in console is! As for your specific lens, I have no idea if it will work or not. I assume so, because all of my lenses worked fine. But I am not an expert on lens/camera compatibility. :)
Regarding the exposure differences when you focus on lighter or darker areas in a scene, does this happen if you switch off auto ISO?
Now I've seen you commenting on the exposure compensation doing the same thing! This has to be due to auto ISO.
It will happen is any setting is on Auto, Shutter/Aperture/ISO. There is no difference between those. If the camera is setting any of them by itself then it using it's metering system to determine the exposure. This is what I was having problems with, the finnicky metering system. I solved this by using Average metering instead of Matrix. However, on my recently-acquired Z9 this is no longer an issue. I find the metering to be much more accurate and requiring less frequent EV adjustments. :)
@@EYExplore Apologies! You are dead right of course. In my reply I initially had exactly this (any setting is on Auto, Shutter/Aperture/ISO), but decided to only mention the ISO as this was your only auto setting. In the video it came across like you didn't know what was causing it and I'm surprised that you did not try manual ISO setting if it was irking you that much. I only use auto ISO if I'm shooting action/wildlife and there is inconsistent light. I would have thought that in your type of shooting it would be viable to use manual ISO and change it as needed instead of exposure comp. The Z9 is a great camera, but I don't need what it offers. Fed up waiting for a Z8 so sold my D850 and have a Z6ii on order. Could not stretch to a Z7ii at this time.
@@grahamowen4336 I see where you're coming from, but walking around the city at night means the light is changing constantly. Using fully manual exposure is doable I suppose, but it just adds an extra thing to keep in mind when in fact I really want to focus my attention on the world around me, not on my camera. Whatever camera I am using, I set it in a way that I have to focus on it as little as possible. To me, all input is 'error' in the sense that if I am messing with settings then the camera is doing something I don't want it to do.
@@EYExplore I hear what you say. Nothing is perfect. Good to see the Z9 has got it nailed. I guess the exposure system and/or processor in it is a lot better than the Z6/7ii.
thanks for video. compare this with legendary D4 (just photos section)
Thanks! I did a kind of comparison video a few months ago, but it wasn't very thorough.
Lukasz, what's your take on the upcoming 28mm F2.8 Z and 40mm F2 Z lens for street photography?
Myself, I'm very excited about the 40/2. It'll be much like what my old beloved Sigma 30/1.4 was on my old D90, when you consider the crop factor. To boot, my 50/1.8 Z lens behaves much more like the 1.4's of days past.
I can't wait to get the 40mm!! I still have my good old Voigtlander 40mm of course, but I use it a bit less because it just doens't feel right on the Z6. Still works great, but somehow foreign to me. I only really use it on the D4. So, I'm looking forward to a spiritual successor for the Z6. I'm sure it will look just as cute, be just as light, and hopefully just as sharp yet with creamy.... and with AF to boot! :)
The 28 I'm less keen on because I already own a killer 28 in the Nikon 28 f/1.4E. Though it's a massive lens, especially with the ATZ adapter, so the new one might win me over with its small size. We'll see, but definitely going for the 40mm first.
Actually, I should say when I heard the early rumors about the 40mm pancake late last year, it's one thing that encouraged me to get a Z6II in the first place. They really need more compact primes in their lineup!
@@EYExplore Thanks for the reply, Lukasz. I hope Nikon watches this video and loans you the 40mm and 28mm for review in future. 😆
@@victorlim5077 That would be amazing!! I've love to get some kind of promotional work from Nikon. Despite my criticism I am big fan of the Z cameras and really enjoy using them! :)
If i am not mistaken 40mm have plastic and not metallic ring right? Does that bother you?
I guess you need to turn auto ISO off to keep metering constant? But I also guess you don't really want to have t do that?
Totally can do that. Then I would just be shooting on full Manual. Which is fine! And I do that sometimes, but it's not my preferred method for when I'm just walking around since the lighting changes constantly. Anyway, it's not the end of the world. :)
First time that I saw sonwhone talk about this inconsistent metering... It is so obvious. And also if you are in auto area and a person is in the shoot as soon as the camera detects the face the metering changes... This is so anoying.
Right!! Actually, someone gave a good tip in the comments: use center-weighted metering and change Custom Setting B3 to Average. It works basically like Matrix Metering but does not change to spot when using subject tracking! :)
@@EYExplore good tip. Thank's.
Jestes jedyny bez maski ;) Cool I say :D
I nic się nie stało. :)
Whats your auto iso range ??
From 100 to 6400. :)
Holly shit look at all those people. That’s insane.
Pretty light crowd for Tokyo though haha. :)
What time of night is this.
@@grgygantz6760 Probably around 7 or 8.
Definitely looks like it's using a weighted spot meter.
Yeah, it does! Which is not what I expect when I'm on Matrix Metering. But actually, someone else gave me a great tip. Use Center Weight Metering and then in custom setting b3 you can change it Avg. I tried this and it works so much better for me! Much more consistent and reliable metering!
@@EYExplore dude I was thinking the samething but in my head I was like he probably already knows. I actually used your setup method from one of your old D4 videos but modified on the D3s because it didn't have some of the features the D4 had, especially the iso button up top. Basically my custom menu was mapped to the quick menu+dial option (func. button) which gave me full stop iso control+auto iso with hard stops for 3 of the menu's. 2 low light, 1 daylight and the last was left to L1 for manual control. I kept center weighted avg. omg that was a God send.
I think I used the other func. button for spot meter.
Anyway it made it much faster and my life easier especially when shooting from a car, or running around I could use the D3s 1 handed.
@@EYExplore this video I totally implemented into my shooting. The D3s was simplified in that only full stops are worth using b/c of the way Nikon setup the iso processor. On photons to photo the SNR literally looks like giant steps so pushing in post is better than using 1/3 or 1/2 stops.
ruclips.net/video/20HtSDYsfXo/видео.html
@@dct124 That's a cool setup! I would try it out on my D3, which I still have, but sadly the shutter died a few years ago and it can't be replaced anymore.
@@dct124 Glad you liked that video! I had no idea about that aspect of the D3. It's something I never picked up on. Pretty interesting! I do see a similar issue with the Z6II. I haven't done rigorous testing, but I feel like it has two native ISOs. Maybe one up to 400 and the second above 400. I find that when I push files in post by 1-2 stops the shadows can look really sucky if I push through that threshold. Meaning, a 400 ISO photo pushed to 800 might look worse than even an 800 ISO photo pushed to 1600. These are just example numbers though, I'm not sure where that threshold is.
Any chance using the Z6ii with sigma prime art lens f mount?
Yes, try the FTZ-Adapter (comes in camera-set), which allows you, to use F-Mount-Lenses on Nikon Z cameras. It works pretty well!
I might rent one. Recently we did a video about the 85mm for street, and a while before that did telephoto for street and they were pretty well received. So, I want to continue this series of using a particular lens for a street session. One of the Sigmas could well be a good idea for a video like that! But I have some others first in line: 14-24mm, 16mm fisheye, and 135mm DC.
@@EYExplore I'm planning to get a Z camera, got some F mount lens. I watched other reviews that AF in video is a bit noisy
@@MrRaychard123 Yeah, F-mount lenses are definitely noisy when it comes to AF. However, if you really care about audio I recommend using a separate microphone anyway, which should reduce the noise. However, Z lenses are ideal as they completely silent.
@@EYExplore on a separate topic just found out my old d750 has 320k shutter. Might as well get a Z6ii or a used D4s
Just to point/note/remind that there are DSLRs with IBIS out there, Sony, Pentax, Olympus...
Yeah, good point! But Nikon never made one as far as I am aware, though the latest flagship D6 might have IBIS, not sure.
Dig the Michael Jackson jacket
Haha, thanks! :)
Thx for the video. Protect yourself, wear mask. Friendly reminder
Thanks! :)
dislike for not wearing mask
K
I would like to explain why I clicked on the Dislike button.
You claim that you don't really know the camera, even though you have had it for six months, as you freely admit "who reads the manuals, right?" Well, the answer to that question, is everyone who doesn't understand. That doesn't include you. So, why would you think yourself qualified to carp on about settings that annoy you, when you clearly haven't looked up a possible solution in the instruction manual? And more than this; why should anyone take you seriously if you can't take the time to learn how the camera works?
I came across this video whilst doing research into the Nikon Z6ii. I haven't bought it yet, I am thinking of doing so, but feel, after watching this video, that I know more about the camera than you do. Try googling "RTFM".
If you still can't be arsed to read the manual, don't expect people to take your advice seriously.
Can I suggest that you search on RUclips for "Hudson Henry". He has a RUclips Channel where he uses Nikon Z cameras and lenses, and actually understands how the system works. He even makes videos about how to change your settings to take different styles of photos. You would definitely benefit from watching some of his videos.
I forgot to add that M and A does not equal Manual and Auto. A stands for Aperture Priority. P stands for Program mode. If you don't understand this most basic of settings then you really are a lost cause.
Man, that was a joke! Of course I searched for this in the manual. And the answer is that there is no explanation for this metering problem. However, there is a solution, it's just not very obvious. It's possible to set the camera to Center-weighted and then go to Custom Setting B3 and select Average. This behaves a bit like Matrix Metering but without the annoying change to pseudo spot metering when using subject tracking.
Of course, these options are listed in the manual, but they are not suggested as a specific alternative to have the camera not use spot metering with subject tracking. I got the tip from someone else's comment on this very video (and have since explained this option in a subsequent video).
I never claim to be an authority on this camera, and the purpose of this channel is to share my experiences with this camera (as well as others) in the context of urban and street photography. So, you take my advice with a gain of salt. But anyway, feel free to dislike! :)
@@TonyHedges I never said A means Auto lol. I know what it means. But when I'm using A, the EXPOSURE is automatic. When using M + Auto ISO, the exposure is also automatic. Hence, the shorthand 'auto' mode. Only on Manual + Manual ISO is the exposure truly manual. The only lost cause here is me trying to explain my views to you as I'm sure you won't change your mind despite my comments here. So let's just leave it that. :)