Hi great videos I have that model imperial at times the oven looses temp. and doesn't auto kick on until I open and close the door a few times .. then works back up to temp.. any ideas love the oven.. do you sell parts need the timer mine cracked also lol
Hi Patrick, I've seen that issue a few times and it's not always clear what's causing it until I can actually see it. What I've seen is 1) a door switch that is sticking (does the motor start back up after you close the door) 2) A bad solenoid valve (that sticks close until the force from the doors closing releases it) or 3) A bad centrifugal switch in the motor, which I can really only confirm by testing it. I know that's a little broad, but hopefully it points you in the right direction. And yes, we do sell parts. Once you figure out what you need you can always call us at 800-972-3509 and select the option for "parts." Thanks for watching!!
@@Windycityequip hey thank you for video I have same oven but the temperature sticks to the highest as soon I turn the oven on and doesn't adjust to to the lower temperature level what could it be?
I work on kitchen equipment in south Louisiana. I had to learn this stuff the hard way. Wish I could follow you guys around for a week or two to better my skills. You guys are awesome. The videos are amazing.
Is your diagnosis of the tstat done with power off? I have a waring wco500x convection oven that I suspect has a bad tstat. I've removed it completely. If I meter it once its un-attached, can I still determine if it's good or failed? Would I expect to see the ohms resistance fluctuate when turning the dial(good) or no change(bad)? Is this a valid troubleshooting method? Thanks.
Yes, this can be done without power connected. There are varying degrees of "bad" thermostats. You should not read any resistance in the off (zero degree) position. If you are, chances are there's an internal short in the tstat. Adversely, you should be reading resistance once the thermostat is turned past the degree that is current reading (IE if its 100 degrees in the oven, tstat should engage at 115-125). If you're not, then your tstat is most likely bad or out of calibration. Of course this is a basic test only to determine a specific functionality of the tstat. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
Yes, I have a Blodgett DFG 100/200 commercial oven and it will be working just fine, then it just randomly stops heating.I even had a tech come check it out, and he couldn't figure it out either , is there anything you think it could be, would be greatly appreciated thank you the Muffin Man...
This could be many things. Some thing you'll want to check: Gas pressure, pilot orifice, air flow, spark gap, position of ignitor. Are the flames "lifting" off of the main burner at all? If so, your airflow could be out of balance. Let me know. Thanks for watching!
good day.. I have a problem with a gas blodgett oven, when I turn it on, the red light turns on and the oven flames, but it goes out after a few minutes.
Sira, the problem you are describing could be several different things and is really hard to isolate. It could be a bad tstat, as this video suggests. Or it could be an airflow problem where the flames are "lifting" away from the sensor and causing it to shut down. Once the flames go out, does the red light shut off? Or does it stay on? Thanks for watching!
I'm not getting anything but a -Ol no sound or anything but the imperial oven heats up just every once in a while will shut off or cool off during the middle of cooking
i have a MONTAGUE gas oven my pilot stays on but the flame doent come on at all no matter what temperature i put it to. what could be the problem? it has a mechanical thermostat,
Hi, I have one of these but even though the switch works when tested as you shown, the thermostat is defective. If I set the temp to 300F it doesn't actually switch off the flame until it reaches about 420F - resulting in a lot of burnt stuff. Is there something I can service in the thermostat switch itself?
Sounds like its out of calibration, but I can't, in good conscience, recommend calibrating it because it will just be a waste of time. If its 120F off, then its time for the tstat to be replaced. Wish I had better news for you. Thanks for watching!!
Windy City Restaurant Equipment Repair Thanks for the reply. It turns out the thermostat was defective. While trying to remove it from the oven, the capillary tube just broke off from the bulb. This is why I had no temperature control. That didn't stop the baking today though... Here's the fun part for those with a defective thermostat. If u have a way to measure the internal temp while the oven like with a thermocouple type k wire, just use a regular digital multi meter to measure the mV. Then use the mV to temp conversion chart for a type k thermocouple and you'll know your internal temperature. Use thermostat switch to turn on and off your flame MANUALLY! Once it drops say 15F below your set point, just turn the switch on to light back the oven. Sound complicated but it's not....Getting a new thermostat next week....GOOD LUCK!
*Slow Clap* Very nice work. Obviously this needs to be closely monitored (I have to say this... as if people don't know). But absolutely right. Nice job; BAKE ON!
Fantastic video! The diagnosis of a defective thermostat was made much easier by this instruction. It was simple to follow along due to the comprehensive explanations and step-by-step directions.For genuine Imperial oven thermostats and other Imperial oven spare parts, visit us.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi great videos I have that model imperial at times the oven looses temp. and doesn't auto kick on until I open and close the door a few times .. then works back up to temp.. any ideas love the oven.. do you sell parts need the timer mine cracked also lol
Hi Patrick, I've seen that issue a few times and it's not always clear what's causing it until I can actually see it. What I've seen is 1) a door switch that is sticking (does the motor start back up after you close the door) 2) A bad solenoid valve (that sticks close until the force from the doors closing releases it) or 3) A bad centrifugal switch in the motor, which I can really only confirm by testing it. I know that's a little broad, but hopefully it points you in the right direction. And yes, we do sell parts. Once you figure out what you need you can always call us at 800-972-3509 and select the option for "parts." Thanks for watching!!
@@Windycityequip hey thank you for video I have same oven but the temperature sticks to the highest as soon I turn the oven on and doesn't adjust to to the lower temperature level what could it be?
I work on kitchen equipment in south Louisiana. I had to learn this stuff the hard way. Wish I could follow you guys around for a week or two to better my skills. You guys are awesome. The videos are amazing.
Do you have a video on how to replace the thermostat?
Hey can you do a vídeo of how to change the termostat on a gas fryer
Is your diagnosis of the tstat done with power off? I have a waring wco500x convection oven that I suspect has a bad tstat. I've removed it completely. If I meter it once its un-attached, can I still determine if it's good or failed? Would I expect to see the ohms resistance fluctuate when turning the dial(good) or no change(bad)? Is this a valid troubleshooting method?
Thanks.
Yes, this can be done without power connected. There are varying degrees of "bad" thermostats. You should not read any resistance in the off (zero degree) position. If you are, chances are there's an internal short in the tstat. Adversely, you should be reading resistance once the thermostat is turned past the degree that is current reading (IE if its 100 degrees in the oven, tstat should engage at 115-125). If you're not, then your tstat is most likely bad or out of calibration. Of course this is a basic test only to determine a specific functionality of the tstat. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
How do you test a 100k thermistor. Sho bloggett conventions oven
Yes, I have a Blodgett DFG 100/200 commercial oven and it will be working just fine, then it just randomly stops heating.I even had a tech come check it out, and he couldn't figure it out either , is there anything you think it could be, would be greatly appreciated thank you the Muffin Man...
Did you ever figure ot out
Yes I did it was the temperature probe, and it worked for about a year, now it stoped again won’t light or heat ?
Hello
We have a bakers Pride oven that won’t turn on
We tried everything, but cannot find any solutions
Can someone please help
oven does not reignite after first time to keep it at temperature. any suggestions
This could be many things. Some thing you'll want to check: Gas pressure, pilot orifice, air flow, spark gap, position of ignitor. Are the flames "lifting" off of the main burner at all? If so, your airflow could be out of balance. Let me know. Thanks for watching!
good day..
I have a problem with a gas blodgett oven, when I turn it on, the red light turns on and the oven flames, but it goes out after a few minutes.
Sira, the problem you are describing could be several different things and is really hard to isolate. It could be a bad tstat, as this video suggests. Or it could be an airflow problem where the flames are "lifting" away from the sensor and causing it to shut down. Once the flames go out, does the red light shut off? Or does it stay on? Thanks for watching!
When I put on the thermostat, the current over flow to food warmer trays...what is the problem
I'm not getting anything but a -Ol no sound or anything but the imperial oven heats up just every once in a while will shut off or cool off during the middle of cooking
i have a MONTAGUE gas oven my pilot stays on but the flame doent come on at all no matter what temperature i put it to. what could be the problem? it has a mechanical thermostat,
Your problem could be a couple of things. Either the tstat, safety valve, or regulator. Is this just an oven or is it a stovetop as well?
Hi, I have one of these but even though the switch works when tested as you shown, the thermostat is defective. If I set the temp to 300F it doesn't actually switch off the flame until it reaches about 420F - resulting in a lot of burnt stuff. Is there something I can service in the thermostat switch itself?
Sounds like its out of calibration, but I can't, in good conscience, recommend calibrating it because it will just be a waste of time. If its 120F off, then its time for the tstat to be replaced. Wish I had better news for you. Thanks for watching!!
Windy City Restaurant Equipment Repair
Thanks for the reply. It turns out the thermostat was defective. While trying to remove it from the oven, the capillary tube just broke off from the bulb. This is why I had no temperature control. That didn't stop the baking today though... Here's the fun part for those with a defective thermostat. If u have a way to measure the internal temp while the oven like with a thermocouple type k wire, just use a regular digital multi meter to measure the mV. Then use the mV to temp conversion chart for a type k thermocouple and you'll know your internal temperature. Use thermostat switch to turn on and off your flame MANUALLY! Once it drops say 15F below your set point, just turn the switch on to light back the oven. Sound complicated but it's not....Getting a new thermostat next week....GOOD LUCK!
*Slow Clap* Very nice work. Obviously this needs to be closely monitored (I have to say this... as if people don't know). But absolutely right. Nice job; BAKE ON!
Fantastic video! The diagnosis of a defective thermostat was made much easier by this instruction. It was simple to follow along due to the comprehensive explanations and step-by-step directions.For genuine Imperial oven thermostats and other Imperial oven spare parts, visit us.
My thermostatic controlled flat griddle is burning my foods at low temperatures and my fryer is cooking to fast
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