Teak deck replacement on a 40 foot boat.

The passed winter we have had the most extensive overhaul project onboard our sail boat, since it was built. A lot of work has been done both inside and out. Teak deck renewal was the main project.
The old teak deck was both screwed and epoxy glued in place, so ripping it off was very time consuming. The new deck was glued only, for easyer maintenance in the future and also to minimize the risk of possible leaks. The deck was sealed before the new teak was installed. All holes were filled with thickened epoxy. Same with all other places that could have a risk of leaking in to the balsa core. Some screws had to be used temporarily during installation because of the curvature of the deck. These were removed afterwards.

[@peterkacandes5905]

You might want to add some commentary to explain what's going on in the pictures and it would be interesting/educational for others confronting a similar project if you could share some of the choices and decisions you had to make and your thought process for how you went about it.

[@Scramasax]

True, but actually there is nothing much special about it.
The old teak was epoxy glued and secured by screws. The reason for that was easyer installation, because of the quite small radius curvature at the cockpit area on the deck.
That made the removal process of the old deck very time consuming.
So some screws were used also during the installation process, but were later removed.
The new deck was glued only (Sikaflex 298 & 290 & bonding primers). I did not want to use epoxy, because I wanted the possible future service to be easyer.
The tools used for removing the old deck was: a hammer, a chisel, a circular saw. You can see those and the method in the fotos... The old teak did not want to separate from the fiberglass, except in the cockpit, where some other glue had been used.
Some test holes was drilled into the deck where water penetration was suspected, but luckily the core was dry. The chainplate areas were reconstucted and strenghtened to be watertight and to prevent water from entering the core also in the future.
After removing the old teak, the deck was sealed and then painted with polyurethane paint.
While the new teak was being glued, compression by chocks and screws was possible because of adequate fiberglass thickness of the top layer in this case (see the removed block by the chainplates).
Relatively large teak sections were prefabricated where ever possible. But the deck curvature did not allow for this in all places though...
Hope this helps.

[@boulahya05]

@@Scramasax how thikness were plate that you use for new teak , and thank you

[@Scramasax]

@@boulahya05 That was 11mm. Same as original.

[@bcbit01]

Fantastic job! This is, by far, one of the top three most expensive, time-consuming, skill-required projects you can tackle on a sailboat...even worse than extensive core repair. I will start this on my Baltic 42DP in the next couple years. Beautiful work that, properly cared for, will last for decades. Congratulations.

[@Scramasax]

Thanks! I propably could have delayed this work a couple of more years, but when I had the opportunity to get it done, I didn't want to miss it!
Synthetic teak was recommended by many, but I felt that plastic on a classic boat would somehow be just wrong... ;-)
Good luck with your project!

[@shanekonarson]

Looks mint . Well done . No screws means no leaks . Great job .

[@hansanders4272]

The teak looked fine could just sandpaper it right

[@georgesbonellodupuis8245]

What a beaut. ⛵️⛵️😻😻

[@jwprovencher]

Outstanding results, congratulation! Will you be using any kind of finish on it like a sealer, oil, cetol or will you leave it natural?

[@Scramasax]

Thanks! I have been thinking about the oils alot actually. Here in our region we don't have the natural wood protection of sea salt, as the water in the Baltic Sea is almost fresh. Then again the previous deck lasted 30 years without doing anything to it. It was sanded when it was 10 years old and again when it was 20 years old.
I will see how this one wears down and after the first sanding I will see if I start to treat this with something.
For now only mold killer (Boracol) every year.

[@officialWWM]

That's a lot of teak!

[@Scramasax]

I have this figure of 17m2 in my head, but I might remember it wrong...

[@officialWWM]

Scramasax wow, that's an expensive job :/

[@Scramasax]

@@officialWWM My friend I have to tell you something. Because that is what we Finns do.
We bought this boat from my father 10 years ago. NOTHING ment to him as much as this boat, which he had owned since new. He died 5 years ago and there was life insurance for me. I can tell you that every single cent and more went into this boat.

[@officialWWM]

Scramasax have to respect that :) I'm a New Zealander and we have the same attitude. I'm currently restoring a 1970 Hartley with my 8 year old son. The boat doesn't mean as much as the memories we are building. He's already told me he will never sell this boat :)

[@Scramasax]

@@officialWWM I have been in your country. The Paradise of This planet. Full dot.

[@eddiemarshall1521]

Hi what glue did you used for sticking down the teak

[@Scramasax]

It's in the description. Everythig is done with Sikaflex.

[@brooke1939]

What is the thickness of the teak and where did you get it from?

[@Scramasax]

I used the same thickness as the orginal was. Partly because of weight reduction and partly because the orginal lasted 30 years anyway, which is enough for me. So 11 mm. The only importer in my region is Scandinavian Teak Deck.

[@svcrucible8303]

just wondering the square footage cost to you on the teak deck only. if i understand you Scandinavian teak designs which i believe gives you teak deck sections already made and you trim and install. they have a usa rep that i sent a email to for info. just wondering on the cost for this project. i have a 43 baltic that may need a deck. thanks john

[@Scramasax]

The teak was supplied by Scandinavian Teack Deck, but it was the wood only.
Rest was made locally and I did all the interior dismantling my self.
I had several offers warying from 20t€ to 26t€ all made by different shops here in southern Finland. (That is work included).

[@svcrucible8303]

@@Scramasax ok got it. thanks for the reply.

[@Scramasax]

@@svcrucible8303 This deck was done 20 minutes away from where I live. So I might have had some bias in my decision making... ;-)

[@svcrucible8303]

@@Scramasax just spoke to the usa rep in rhode island for scandinavian teak and he tells me that they may have the templates for my baltic 43. also the don't just sell the pre-made template to teak deck, they also install it on your boat. ???? just for fun i want to know the price for that! boat is in long beach ca. and i'm flying down to meet a yard mgr. from ensenada, mexico to have a look.

[@Scramasax]

@@svcrucible8303 You live some interesting times my friend! One thing you should consider though. These boats are literally hand made. So they MIGHT not be the same by millimetre from boat to boat. What I'm saying is that the original was a custom made deck. If you want guaranteed equal quality, you need to have it custom made.

[@shantahsieh432]

If you want to build it you can find nice instructions on the Stodoys website.