Really great detail. Appreciate the quality of the video and your workmanship. All seems doable for my 85,87 ,however I am lost when perform the relay mapping. I've watched and rewatched at least a dozen times still makes no sense to me , I hate not understanding what I'm doing. What's S1,etc... Switch position 1? Now a disclaimer. I suffer from a bad TBI. Not saying I was the sharpest tool in the shed before, but I have a difficult time seeing things now.
Thanks for watching! The relay has 2 reed switches. It has one coil that is energized to change both switches at the same time. S1 is the first switch and S2 is the second switch. The diagram on the relay case shows what pins are associated with the coils and switches, and it shows the relay pin numbers that are bridged when power is off and on to the coil. Different relay makes may have different pin configurations so the purpose of making the maps is to ensure the circuit board leads are connected to the right pins on the relay. Hope that helps!
@@markfranke8326 Thank you for the explanation. I'll read your reply and watch the video where your mapping to see if the light goes on. Thanks again for your fantastic videos on the 928
Thanks for watching! The desolder tool shown in the video is unbranded. I would not overthink this tool too much. If you go onto Amazon and search for "solder sucker" you can find a variety, at reasonable price, with good reviews.
I think you could find a board mount solution. The reason I opted for externally mounting it is for easier future maintenance, and it keeps relay and heat away from the board.
I have hunted this part number all over and cannot find it. It is discontinued. Do you know of another part number that will substitute? Many thanks for the great video!
Thanks Roy, glad you like the video. The relay is a basic general purpose DPDT 12VDC relay. The TE relay in video appears NLA. On the Digikey website a substitute part is listed, K10P-11D15-12. Haven’t tried it but looks similarly robust, industrial, rated for 15A. Amazon sells NTE brand 10A R14 series and Radio Shack has something similar. There are lots of relay options. The compressor may draw up to 3A, so suggest that as a min rating.
@@markfranke8326 Mark,I'am considering inserting a 3amp to 5amp fuse link(per your suggestion) between either the controller sw/relay and the electromagnetic clutch relay towards the a/c compressor or between the controller sw/relay and the 7amp fuse located in the main relay/fuse box under dash passenger side for additional protection since the new controller sw/relay is rated at 10amp 12 vdc.Your thoughts would be helpful.Tom
@@thomasbainbridge6811 Hi Thomas. It is the compressor current that will task the relay. I would add the fuse there. In the original configuration, one might speculate that the underrated relay, whether by design or happenstance, served a dual function as overcurrent protection, in that it would fail early on fault and excessive current demand.
Impressive diagnosis and repair. Based on my electrical expertise, I’d probably just have to go without A/C. Fortunately mine works.
Thanks, and thanks for watching! That relay is a common failure point. Hope the video can help should anyone encounter it!
Really appreciate this level of Patience!
Thanks for watching! The repair is fairly easy once you know how it all goes together.
Great video. I just did this a few months back on both my 928’s and so happy to A/C working again.
Thanks Peter! Great to hear.. 928 A/C blowing cold makes a huge difference doesn't it!
Really great detail. Appreciate the quality of the video and your workmanship. All seems doable for my 85,87 ,however I am lost when perform the relay mapping. I've watched and rewatched at least a dozen times still makes no sense to me , I hate not understanding what I'm doing. What's S1,etc... Switch position 1? Now a disclaimer. I suffer from a bad TBI. Not saying I was the sharpest tool in the shed before, but I have a difficult time seeing things now.
Thanks for watching! The relay has 2 reed switches. It has one coil that is energized to change both switches at the same time. S1 is the first switch and S2 is the second switch. The diagram on the relay case shows what pins are associated with the coils and switches, and it shows the relay pin numbers that are bridged when power is off and on to the coil. Different relay makes may have different pin configurations so the purpose of making the maps is to ensure the circuit board leads are connected to the right pins on the relay. Hope that helps!
@@markfranke8326 Thank you for the explanation. I'll read your reply and watch the video where your mapping to see if the light goes on. Thanks again for your fantastic videos on the 928
What is the brand and where can the suction tool for bulk solder removal be obtainedThanks.Great fob!
Thanks for watching! The desolder tool shown in the video is unbranded. I would not overthink this tool too much. If you go onto Amazon and search for "solder sucker" you can find a variety, at reasonable price, with good reviews.
Fantastic job! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Nicely done!
Thanks for watching! Super nice looking '84 928 that you have in your vids!
Thank you for this!
My pleasure!
Isn't there a higher amp rated relay that fits back into the OEM board? I was thinking there is.
I think you could find a board mount solution. The reason I opted for externally mounting it is for easier future maintenance, and it keeps relay and heat away from the board.
@@markfranke8326 Agree. Simple, inexpensive, easy to maintain. Great solution.
I have hunted this part number all over and cannot find it. It is discontinued. Do you know of another part number that will substitute? Many thanks for the great video!
Thanks Roy, glad you like the video. The relay is a basic general purpose DPDT 12VDC relay. The TE relay in video appears NLA. On the Digikey website a substitute part is listed, K10P-11D15-12. Haven’t tried it but looks similarly robust, industrial, rated for 15A. Amazon sells NTE brand 10A R14 series and Radio Shack has something similar. There are lots of relay options. The compressor may draw up to 3A, so suggest that as a min rating.
@@markfranke8326 Mark,I'am considering inserting a 3amp to 5amp fuse link(per your suggestion) between either the controller sw/relay and the electromagnetic clutch relay towards the a/c compressor or between the controller sw/relay and the 7amp fuse located in the main relay/fuse box under dash passenger side for additional protection since the new controller sw/relay is rated at 10amp 12 vdc.Your thoughts would be helpful.Tom
@@thomasbainbridge6811 Hi Thomas. It is the compressor current that will task the relay. I would add the fuse there. In the original configuration, one might speculate that the underrated relay, whether by design or happenstance, served a dual function as overcurrent protection, in that it would fail early on fault and excessive current demand.
Dude this is nutz I hear people on meth can do this stuff you lost me after you pulled the stereo
lol
Awesome video, great job!
Can I send you my controller 😬 my S4 is doing the same thing!