Thanks so much Frank! This is the best video! Now I need to decide how much of the previous owner's work I redo. I want to redo the direction of a number of rivets, but a majority of the cockpit floor is in and I don't think it was pulled down with a screw as you suggested, so it's a bit high. The sides of the tunnel was attempted to be siliconed but not rivetted so there's a big gap between the panel and the tunnel, and the panel itself is siting above the tunnel and not flush. I think I will be able to draw it in with screws, I've already removed the old silicone, then I'll just need to trim the top portion of the panels flush with the tunnel. Thanks again for the tips!
David Christian I have an engine oil cooler and all my panels are mirror polished aluminum. I don't have a problem with heat transferring and out of the panels at all. They don't even get warm inside the car on 100 degree day.
The wonderful thing about the Factory Five Racing platform is that it allows the owner/builder to personalize the car in any way they wish................ including heat and sound mat.
Uhh, I think hysol would be best instead of silicon for adhering the aluminum panels. Silicon degrades after 8 or 10 years. The hysol would last the life of the car.
You can use whatever adhesive you like. We use 100% silicone; 1) because that is what Factory Five recommends and 2) because if a panel ever needs to be removed, the panel isn't destroyed trying to get it loose.
I built 3 of these and didn't use any sound mat. The last one i built i have well over a quarter of a million dollars invested in it counting my labor. I don't understand what the mat is for? These cars are loud and they are an open roadster. I do have a polished stainless steel heat shield on the front of the foot box behind the headers. That's the only place i can see where mat would be needed.
Thermal insulation like Thermo-Tec mat or Lizard Skin Ceramic spray on the panels makes the most sense, not to block sound, but heat. A lot of heat transfers through the panels in the footboxes and the transmission tunnel sides and top. I ended up spraying lizard skin on all the interior panels of the cockpit and the back of the firewall on my build.
Not here to argue with you. Depending on climate in the area in which someone lives will greatly affect the heat in the cockpit of the car. The headers are an inch from the aluminum footbox and we've found the heat and sound mat help to mitigate the heat. We also seal the cockpit at the gap between the chassis and the body on both the drivers and passenger side of the car.
Great tips on thinking about the direction of the rivets.
Thanks for that Rob.
Thanks so much Frank! This is the best video!
Now I need to decide how much of the previous owner's work I redo. I want to redo the direction of a number of rivets, but a majority of the cockpit floor is in and I don't think it was pulled down with a screw as you suggested, so it's a bit high. The sides of the tunnel was attempted to be siliconed but not rivetted so there's a big gap between the panel and the tunnel, and the panel itself is siting above the tunnel and not flush. I think I will be able to draw it in with screws, I've already removed the old silicone, then I'll just need to trim the top portion of the panels flush with the tunnel.
Thanks again for the tips!
Glad to help.
Very helpful with nuanced detail, as I am at the same point in my build. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
ie427 Garage you build these cars at another level. Definitely a perfectionist.
We do our best. Thanks for watching!
David Christian I have an engine oil cooler and all my panels are mirror polished aluminum. I don't have a problem with heat transferring and out of the panels at all. They don't even get warm inside the car on 100 degree day.
The wonderful thing about the Factory Five Racing platform is that it allows the owner/builder to personalize the car in any way they wish................ including heat and sound mat.
Uhh, I think hysol would be best instead of silicon for adhering the aluminum panels. Silicon degrades after 8 or 10 years. The hysol would last the life of the car.
You can use whatever adhesive you like. We use 100% silicone; 1) because that is what Factory Five recommends and 2) because if a panel ever needs to be removed, the panel isn't destroyed trying to get it loose.
I built 3 of these and didn't use any sound mat. The last one i built i have well over a quarter of a million dollars invested in it counting my labor. I don't understand what the mat is for? These cars are loud and they are an open roadster. I do have a polished stainless steel heat shield on the front of the foot box behind the headers. That's the only place i can see where mat would be needed.
Thermal insulation like Thermo-Tec mat or Lizard Skin Ceramic spray on the panels makes the most sense, not to block sound, but heat. A lot of heat transfers through the panels in the footboxes and the transmission tunnel sides and top. I ended up spraying lizard skin on all the interior panels of the cockpit and the back of the firewall on my build.
Not here to argue with you. Depending on climate in the area in which someone lives will greatly affect the heat in the cockpit of the car. The headers are an inch from the aluminum footbox and we've found the heat and sound mat help to mitigate the heat. We also seal the cockpit at the gap between the chassis and the body on both the drivers and passenger side of the car.