End Grain Basket Weave Cutting Board Tutorial
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- This is my method of making an End Grain Basket Weave Cutting Board
I do all my fine measurements in metric, but you'll hear me switch back and forth depending on context. You can make this pattern in imperial - but Metric is just way simpler when it comes to precision.
I am in no way sponsored by any of these companies - I bought these tools and supplies because I believe in the product and / or they were all I could afford. #notsponsored
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THANK YOU.
Like a few others, i thought you had lost your mind ripping after the first glue up. But once I understood why, i can see the genius in it. I never would have thought of it.
lol. It’s definitely a little unorthodox, but when using thin stock or multiple thicknesses of lumber or even scrap, it saves a lot of waste. You can skip the step altogether by using 8/4 lumber and not making the initial panel… I will generally resaw lumber and then use the fall off box box bottoms and other small projects. Thanks for the comment… I promise I’m no crazy 😂
Well done. The presence of the Vernier's and 1-2-3 block earned you a new sub. Stay well.
Besides being absolutely gorgeous, I really appreciate the techniques you show and explain. Sharing that whole approach is very much appreciated!
Thanks for the comment! I appreciate the appreciation 😁. Thanks for watching!
Ok, the whole putting your brand in the drill press trick, broke my brain! You, sir... Genius!!
lol - yeah, that's about all that drill press is good for. Not a big fan of the Ryobi DP.
And that's ONE cutting board. Wow!
Your sense of humor is a bonus to this educational video! Thanks for posting.
Haha! Thanks - one tends to get kind of delirious spending so many hours starting at a monitor editing footage 😂😂. Glad you liked it!
The ultimate cutting board, so beautiful! Great work!
I absolutely LOVE that you put that warning on. You’re the man.
Haha - because accidents don't take vacations! lol.
Frigging gorgeous!
Matt mate, thank you for the presentation and the board looks top class. Thank you for the tip with the branding iron. So simple. Why did I not think of it.
Take care and be safe. Cheers.
Loved the picture of the Montana sunset by the way!
Thanks! Was from a spot at Two Medicine lakes on the eastern side of Glacier National Park. Hard to deny that view… my only concern was that a Grizzly bear and her cub were in camp a few hours prior so my head was on a swivel all evening 😂
Great video: great skills; great knowledge; great teaching skills; great design; great project; great wood selection; GREAT TOOLS. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, David! Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome cutting board. I can't tell you how many things I've purchased after drinking bourbon! I bough a set of your plans.
Haha… damn bourbon making bad decisions for us! Glad you liked the video - hit me up if you have any questions!
Well done.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Seeing your assembly jig was great! I purchased your plans and have build one board and was pretty intimidated by the glue-up. I'm now ready to tackle this one again! Thanks for sharing the extra details.
Thanks Doug! I’ve altered the jig a little bit since I wrote up the plans - having the fences a little shorter than the board is key for me, but with nice parallel clamps it wouldn’t be an necessary due to the longer jaws - the flip is a little “extra” but it works with the tools I currently have.
I bought your plans and close to starting the glue-up. Thanks for the video.
Beautiful finish.
Thanks. Super easy to mix up and much less expensive than buying the pre-made stuff.
I also have to take a shot of bourbon before ordering from Woodpeckers... Great stuff but EXPENSIVE! Lol!
Loved the video, thanks for sharing. Would love to make a few. Have some friend getting married soon would be a hood gift. Hope to remember the durections
Glad you enjoyed the video! It’s a fun project and I’m sure your friend will love the board. It’s fun to play around with different species for interesting color combinations.
A beautiful piece. Very informative
Thanks Wayne! Much appreciated!
wow! too beautiful to use as a cutting board!
Thank you! Cheers!
That is a beautiful piece of art.
Thank you!
Wow! Really nice board, and a great tutorial. I've been a long-time machinist, buy I only recently started making sawdust. I love making cutting boards. I wanted to make one for my sister, and this is the design she picked. I'm going to tell her she's going to have to wait until I get some more experience as this looks to be WAY above my current paygrade. lol
It’s a little intimidating at first? But as a machinist, working in metric and using the micrometer should e second nature.l, and that’s half the battle with this design. I’m sure you’re be fine - when you’re ready let me know - happy to answer any questions.
@@MattMuirhead Just DMed you from your website.
Ok, ok. You get a like. First the Man Glitter bit, but definitely for The Clamps! pop-up.
Haha.... thanks! Gotta do something to entertain myself while I'm editing lol
@@MattMuirhead Oh wow, came back after gettin' lost on random topics to see what other tutorials you made and was surprised to see ya don't have an entire library to pick from! All the more impressive editin', Mr. Matt! Ya did it like a pro!
@@PsyCoCinematics yeah, I’m a bit behind - got a new job, had my table saw die, got a new one, now I’m fixing to move houses and hopefully into a nicer, bigger shop. I’m not done; just had to take a hiatus - I appreciate you checking back in!
@@MattMuirhead Sure thing! Take your time and get stuff sorted, but subbin' to see whatcha got in store for the future too! Have a good one!
Well done Matt. I enjoyed your video and hope you succeed with RUclips. Your basket weave pattern is amazing. I quilt and am familiar with this pattern so I had to see how you did it with wood. Whether with fabric or wood it is a complicated pattern. You are very talented.
Thank you! I'm still relatively new to woodworking but am working hard to learn! I've watched hours and hours of RUclips videos to get where I am now - it's wonderful having all this at our fingertips.
Beautiful - I was going to comment on the voids you had on the edge rows on your final glue up, but then you eliminated my issue with your final dimension trimming.
Thanks - yeah, doing it that way is the only way to ensure adequate pressure during the glue up. It I had cut the edge pieces down beforehand, not only is it more work, if the cut isn’t precise the pressure might not be even. Glad you enjoyed the video - thanks again.
You got me with the man glitter! LOL!! So I had to sub! The board turned out beautifully man. Take care & God Bless!!!
Haha…. Careful dragging that man-glitter into the house after a long day in the “shop”. Lol
Great job, explanation, Most Important analysis, Cost of Materials!
Lol, that Ralf "I'm in danger" got me laughing.
Instant sub.
Haha… thanks for the sub! Working at a cabinet shop FT now, so the videos will be a little slower than anticipated, but I have some fun projects coming in the next few months!
@@MattMuirhead
Sounds good, from what I've seen you put out quality content.
Informative, creative, and entertaining.
I'll be going through your content, and how that your channel grows.
If that's what you want anyways haha.
It's been a while since any channel had left this level of impression on me.
Keep up the good work.
Beautiful piece. Nice work Matt.
Thank you! Once you have the method down, it’s fun to mix species to create different looks.
Wonderful job. Congratulations on your competence. Marcus 🇧🇷
Thank you, Marcus! Agradeço você assistir meu vídeo!
Hi, what an amazing video. You make it look doe able but it’s very intimidating to me . Keep up the amazing work.👍
Thanks Mr B. The glue up was a little intimidating, especially the first time, but it gets easier with every one.
Very impressive ,thanks for sharing
Very nice work!!
Thanks a lot!
Man glitter, funny!!!
Awesome project and work sir. Great video 👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I like how sensitive you were to some people's sensitivities surrounding CNC. That was funny!
Haha…. Yeah, I’ve experienced first hand how triggered some people get over using a CNC in a shop 😂😂
Awesome board!!! Thanks for the tips!
Thanks Eric! I've had some fun with different species / color combinations to mix things up which is always interesting.
Great Work, thanks for sharing
Much appreciated
watching again I like your work lol
Thanks again! Lol. I have a few more projects recorded and I hope to find some more time soon to edit the footage and post most content - started a new job and have been too busy. 👍
Amazing outcome Matt, money shot is always well worth it!
Might be time to invest in that drum sander ;)
Thank you and I agree… I have an old Delta 16/32 but like most that are left out there, it’s not working properly. I have access to a wide-belt that I use sometimes, but I need a good machine in the home shop. When I get into a bigger space, a nice drum sander is on the short-list of must-have tools.
what a great design! you just earned a subscriber!
Thanks - glad you enjoyed the video!
Great vid! Liked for content, subbed for metric 😉
It’s all about the MM.
I work in a cabinet shop…. I wish they felt the same 😂
Amazing job! Want to do similar top of table in livingroom
I have plans to do something link this for a table surface one day, but I think I might cut it into veneer and laminate it over a substrate. Would be a cool looking table for sure.
Thanks for sharing! I love this look!
Thanks! Glad you like it!
Amazing work and a great video! I purchased your plans and will try to make one of these soon.
Thank you! Hit me up if you have any questions!
I am very impressed! I didn't see a single correction I would give you, and this was the best method for making basket weave pattern cutting board I have seen. You obviously have some some considerable practice time making end grain boards.
Thank you! I’ve made a few of these to be sure, but I’m still pretty new to woodworking (only about a year under my belt), so I thought i could share my methods to help other newbies to help us all grow through the process. I have another project shot, just need to find time to edit 👍.
@@MattMuirhead wow! Then you are an absolute natural in woodworking. I subscribed to your channel. I'm interested to see your projects in the future
Thanks - it’s been a lot of fun learning the process. Spending at least a few hours in the shop every day to keep pushing myself. Hopefully can get in a groove to post a few videos per month.
Very cool! Thank you!
Thanks - Glad you liked it! Hoping to get back at it soon after I move into a new shop!
Very nice pattern, one of the best I've ever seen.
Much appreciated! While it’s a little time consuming, I feel like the end-result is worthwhile.
@@MattMuirhead Definitely! I don't think I'll be doing this to sell, but I'll definitely make one as a gift for my wife. Thanks for the tutorial.
Subbed just because of the Futurama reference. Haha jk, this is a great tutorial!
Haha... thanks! Since it's Christmas, I should post an appropriate quote by Bender.... "Oh my god, I bet I can eat and go to the bathroom at the same time!" Have a great holiday!
Amazing board! Someone help me understand the point of the initial glue up. Why not cut the boards to the strip width initially?
This is explained in more detail in the plans, but that step is for people who aren’t started with 8/4 lumber. I created this walkthrough / method because a large percentage of weekend woodworkers only have access to 4/4 or 1” s4s lumber, so they won’t have the option to just resaw thicker lumber down to the thickness required. Personally. I skip the first step and resaw my lumber on the bandsaw and use the fall-off for box bottoms and other small projects. Though, even using 8/4 lumber, it’s still a feasible option if you are looking to reduce waste.
Beautiful board
Thank you!
I'd love to learn how you make the excel sheets for this
Obra prima perfeição em cada detalhe 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
Obrigada! Agradeço você assistir meu vídeo! Vou publicar outro vídeo quando terminar meu projeto atual! Espero que meu português faça sentido!
amazing
Reminds me a bit of the "duct maze" from the Aliens video game. :)
❤❤❤
I stabilize boards on a known flat piece with shims to use my 12" thickness planer as a jointer.
This is almost 15” wide on the narrow - and sending end grain through a planer is very dangerous. Router sled, drum sander or CNC is much more desirable.
@@MattMuirhead No No. I was talking about the initial board that was too wide for your jointer and you used the jig to run it through the planer after the jointer.
@@ecocentrichomestead6783 ah yeah - I’ve used that method as well - this takes up a little less space in my little shop but it’s definitely a great option.
Parabéns pelo seu trabalho ficou linda a sua tábua 💯💯💢💥💫
Muito obrigado pelas suas amáveis palavras!
Did I see a Hot Shots reference in there on the second glue up?
Of all the missions in all the jungles you had to walk into this one.....
Very nice!!!
Thanks!
Great!
Matt, I am going to do this board and going to use 3 woods. 1 Walnut, 2 maple, 3 cherry. What is the materials list for each of woods. Your video only uses 2 woods so I am not sure how to easily figure it out for 3 woods
The plans differentiate Wood 1, 2 and 3 to make using 3 species easy. Wood 1 is the main block, wood 2 is the thin strips and wood 3 are the small squares to fill the gaps.
C’est vraiment super beau bravo 👍 je m’abonne à ta chaîne pour en voir plus 👏
Really nice board. Would you mind commenting on the pvc pipe set up jig and how and why is works? I see a few people using them, but I would have assumed that the PVC bows. Apparently not?
It’s just a simple way to lift the wood from the surface that is easy to clean and work from if you plan to use cauls. They are 3” pvc so they don’t flex under even heavy load. I don’t use them all the time - with the Bessy clamps with elevated feet, I often just use those as a base and still give me enough space underneath to attach cauls, albeit not quite as easily as when using the pvc.
Funny, my branding iron is also my autograph surrounded by my home state
Ha - i think it adds a nice ‘made in the US’ feel to it, but just a little more specific 😉. I had a branding iron made up that I use a lot of the time, but I took the file and made a toolpath for the CNC that I use on smaller projects like these.
Gorgeous 😍!
Imma take a shot hoping there's more woodworking/how to videos coming up. And I subbed lol 🥃
Thanks, Janie. I have another Project already filmed, I’m just trying to find time to edit. Started a new job not that long ago and it’s sucking up all of my time for fun stuff like my personal work 😂😂.
No rush at all. Take your time boss! "The two most powerful warriors are patience and time. You get the chicken by hatching the egg, not by smashing it.”
I would love to learn how you design the board’s.
I’m not great with a computer but I will figure it out to bring some ideas to life any help with this would be great thanks
I had an idea of what I wanted the board to look like, crew it up in excel as you can see in the video and then broke it down in my head as to how I could create strips and reverse engineered it. I just imagine each block I drew to be 24 inches long and what might be the best way to get it to that point. Unsure how others work out the details for their designs, but that's how my brain works.
Ciao Matt. Scusami, ho scaricato i tuoi file questa notte. Non capisco il motivo dell'incollaggio intermedio. Perchè incolli i listelli insieme per poi tagliarli la seconda volta? Avevi già i listelli fatti...dopo averli piallati in squadro potevi incollare il ciliegio da 4mm...cosa mi sfugge?
Ciao dall'Italia.
Hi Matt. Sorry, I downloaded your files last night. I learning well, thanks. I don't understand the reason for the intermediate gluing. Why do you glue the strips together and then you cut them again the second time? You already had the strips done... after planing them and square you could have glued the 4mm cherry... what am I missing?
Bye from Italy
Thank you for the comment. Since this is a tutorial, I added the lamination for people that don't have access to thicker lumber. Here in the states, it is common for people to buy 1 inch (~25mm) or thinner lumber, and the lamination step would be necessary to create the proper thickness. I buy most of my lumber 2" thick, so when I build these, I skip that step and use solid wood. The lamination step can also help to reduce waste when building larger batches, but if you plan out your cuts, there is not a lot of waste in this project. Good luck and enjoy! Let me know if you have any questions!
Grazie per il commento. Poiché questo è un tutorial, ho aggiunto la laminazione per le persone che non hanno accesso a legname più spesso. Qui negli Stati Uniti, è comune per le persone acquistare legname da 1 pollice (~ 25 mm) o più sottile e la fase di laminazione sarebbe necessaria per creare lo spessore corretto. Compro la maggior parte del mio legname spesso 2", quindi quando li costruisco, salto quel passaggio e uso il legno massiccio. La fase di laminazione può anche aiutare a ridurre gli sprechi quando si costruiscono lotti più grandi, ma se si pianificano i tagli, un sacco di sprechi in questo progetto. Buona fortuna e buon divertimento! Fammi sapere se hai qualche domanda!
Nice job
Thanks, Robert. Much appreciated!
Bom dia, como no Brasil nós usamos as medidas em centímetros, gostaria por gentileza que transformasse de polegadas para centímetros. Achei maravilhosa sua ideia.
O plano que tenho disponível para compra online é métrico (milímetros) - não uso medidas imperiais (polegadas) em nenhuma das minhas pequenas peças de marcenaria. Espero que esta tradução do inglês seja precisa o suficiente para fazer sentido!
Great video, thanks for sharing so many details. It’s a complex piece. You should have more subscribers so I just did. Cheers!
Thanks! I am filming another project now, but long hours at work and the 100°+ temps aren’t helping my productivity! Hopefully I can make a good dent on it this weekend and publish another video next week 🤞
Is this pattern plan available for purchase to make my own?
Thanks
The link to purchase plans is in the video description. Thanks!
Stupid question here from a rookie. Why glue everything up (the first glue up) just to rip it down again? Is it to try and save wood?
Not a stupid question at all - yeah, depending on the thickness of your lumber, this ends up saving a lot of waste - but it also allows you to use any thickness lumber you want. You can even mix thicknesses if you have some 4/4 and some 6/4, for example. Honestly, because the 8/4 cherry I had was so twisted, I had to joint / plane a lot of material to get it flat and it would have been just as easy not to make the largest panel, but I decided to do it anyway just to demonstrate the process.
Gorgeous!!!
8:30 But why did you glue up the panels when you're cutting them apart again in the same direction as the glue up? 18:55 ->The (unnecessary) glue lines show up in your board...
This is discussed in more depth in the plans, but the object of this video was to demonstrate the technique no matter the thickness of lumber being used. If someone were to build this using 4/4 or even 6/4 lumber, this is a necessary step to ensure having enough material to get the proper final dimension. If you use 8/4 lumber, you can skip the panel step altogether if you don't mind the waste. If you're stingy with material, when you create a panel like this, you eliminate quite a bit of waste - I actually resaw 8/4 lumber and make thin panels with the fall-off and use them for box bottoms.
@@MattMuirhead 👍🙏
I’m curious about the purpose of the initial glue up…it seems after the glue up, you sliced everything in the same orientation. Is that to try to maximize wood utilization?
I discussed that briefly in the video, but in more detail in the plans. This method allows you to use any lumber you might have in hand - the reality is that a high percentage of hobbyists use nothing but 4/4 lumber. If you are using 8/4 like I am here, you can skip the first panel glue up, but you will have a lot of waste from each resaw. This method will also help reduce waste by quite a bit. Personally, I generally resaw my 8/4 and skip that first panel, but I use the falloff from the resaw for hardwood box bottoms, so it’s to my benefit.
Nice
Thanks - this board is always a fun project
for this board what lengths are you cutting to?
This info is in the plans linked in the description, but I tend to cut extra to allow for more options when choosing my layout, just in case there are a few abnormalities in any of the blocks - so I tend to cut 26", give or take.
Matt, @ 6:50 are you giving the dimensions of the entire species slab? Also, why the initial glue up instead of ripping to rough final from the surfaced initial stock? ie you take the sapele to 6mm from the glue-up, why not just rip 6mm strips to start with?
You can omit the panel glue ups if you want - this process saves some waste but is not 100% necessary. This is explained better in the accompanying tutorial guide. I use 8/4 lumber for woods 1 and 2 and 4/4 for wood 3 and skip the panel steps. More waste but saves a day in glue ups.
Hey! Great board and i loved every step of it. One question, why didn't you raise the grain with water and sanded it? Isn't it better?
I didn’t film any of the sanding because watching people sand is the most boring content on RUclips…., but yea, I raise the grain between each grit of sandpaper from 80 up to 220. 👍
@@MattMuirhead Tyvm for the quick reply! You are the king boss
Please, I'd like to know where to get one of the Splitters you used on the Powermatic 66.
You can order than from Sharkguard - they have a full array of splitters in multiple widths depending on your choice of blade, overheard collection with kickback pawls, etc. I ordered one after I had my first 5hp kickback... right after I cleaned my shorts!
I really want to try it, but I'm going to need you to come to Texas and help me do all the jigs. I'll pay for burgers....
Will trade jigs for brisket! lol. Jig Brisket might just have to be my new band name.....
Хорошая работа👍
Большое спасибо 👍
Hi Matt your video on your basket weave cutting board is spot on and your cutting board itself looks great. I’d love to know where did you get your branding iron? I’m very interested in buying one like that . The electric one that I have , I am having a problem getting the whole brand straight.
Thank you - The branding iron is something cheap I randomly found on Amazon searching for custom branding iron - An outfit called High Heat Stamp. Nowadays it mostly collects dust outside of using it on furniture and other large projects - I chose to simplify things and just engrave my logo with the CNC while the handles are being cut - kill 2 birds, but chucking it into the drill press makes all the difference.
I've made some other changes to my technique since making this video but the bones remain the same. I finally invested in Parallel Clamps which makes the glue up way easier (no more need to flip the jig) and have just become more efficient. I generally also resaw my initial stock and skip the initial glue up unless I am batching out a ton of them at once. I can use the fall-off for solid wood drawer or box bottoms.
@@MattMuirhead Thanks Matt .
Great video! Any chance you might share the Excel sheet?
Thanks Steven. The excel sheet is available on my website (see link in the description) - it’s bundled together with - 15 page PDF walkthrough that goes into a little more detail than the video and also includes a SketchUp file that better displays the panels for the first glue up.
@@MattMuirhead Just downloaded it. Thanks so much! Looking forward to trying it out.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Beautiful design and work...just bought your calculator...looks impressive. But I'm a little confused by what I see at 8:35 in your video. You've made a glue-stack of the cherry and are then ripping the stack. It appears you are essentially ripping down the glue joint. Can you help me with the rationale?
Yea - this method was mainly used as an example - if you are using 8/4 or thicker lumber, the first panel isn’t necessary. This tutorial will be good for people using any thickness lumber (most folks use 4/4 and therefore would be forced to make the panel to achieve proper thickness). When I make these, I use 8/4 and resaw boards close to necessary dimension and then plane it down until it’s dead on. This method also saves at least a full day of waiting for a glue up. That said, the panel method does save quite a bit of waste. Fortunately I can use the fall off from the resaw for other projects (box bottoms, inlays, etc).
Thanks for the clarification...with 4/4 stock it seems like one would clearly end up with "seams" in the end grain in the final product...correct? Wouldn't that also be true if any of the cuts when starting with 8/4 were not on the glue seam?
@@davidlynch7694 yeah, you’ll get seams if you cut your strips from a panel - but because it’s endgrain, it’s no very noticeable if you you take proper measures when glueing up your panels. I don’t find it takes away from the aesthetics very much. That said, I buy all my lumber 8/4 and therefore skip that step for my personal builds (this video notwithstanding).
Why did you do the first glue-up only to cut the pieces again? Couldn't you cut them to the 2nd dimensions on the first go around and save a glue up?
I did this as an instructional video so I wanted to create an example that was relevant no matter how thick your original stock might be- you could use this process using different thickness stock as thin or thick as you like. I use 8/4 stock so in theory I could plane it down to thickness and skip the first glue up for the larger panel, but I would be wasting about 1/2' of material to do so with 2" thick lumber. Because the piece of cherry I used was super twisted, I had to plane it down to the point where it would have been feasible to skip that step for one panel, but skipping a step while trying to show the process isn't a good look. At the end of the day, doing it the way I demonstrated is a way to save waste the vast majority of the time.
Hi Matt, I loved this video and I'm eager to try my hand at making this myself. I have a question - do you have suggestions for another wood to use in place of sapele, as I'm in Australia and it's difficult to find here (and I'm new enough to woodworking that I'm worried about picking a wood with vastly the wrong characteristics!) Cheers.
That’s a good question a im not very familiar with woods that are native to AU, but I’ve made this with a number of different species. I use Walnut and Cherry quite a bit - hard maple is always a good choice. I try to stay away from open-grain woods like oak, but many folks will argue that it’s fine - I l prefer tighter grain woods for a number of reasons.
Great video! Loved it. Any advice on other domestic wood species to use?
My favorite is a 3 wood combination - walnut, cherry and sapele, but maple could be subbed for sapele to give a different look.
Curious to know how much you charge as a joiner myself in england i bet its stupid money we cant do that over here and besides no one over here would want to cut on it !
Prices differ depending of wood species and the fluctuation of lumber prices, but these start at just over $300 USD. The great thing about end grain boards is that they show very little wear and tear if you aren't hacking at it like the Swedish Chef :)
Matt Muirhead, how do you calculate your pricing of the cutting boards, or woodworking, etc.??? A short video would be cool. Thank you.
I look at the the price of materials, figure out how many hours I have into the project and do some market research on what similar boards are selling for in the area. Frankly, I need to start selling these for a lot more than I am lol. It helps to make more than one at a time to help cut down on the time I have into each one - milling the lumber to exact dimensions is the most time consuming.
What am I missing? You glued up the larger boards then cut them apart again along the same side. Why not just plane them flat? Nice board.
You can plane them flat *if* you are using 8/4 or thicker lumber. I made this tutorial for people to be able to use any thickness of lumber - a large majority of people making boards use 4/4 almost exclusively. There will be a fair amount of waste direct to shavings if you plane 8/4 down to 32mm - when I make these, I generally resaw my boards so I have a thin piece of fall off that I can use for something productive. If you don’t resaw, this method will save a large amount of waste.
Cool friend very good your work... friend lives in Brazil and in my region does not have these projects. could you please help me Where can I get the program any link that I can do the course for these projects. Thanks in advance
Thank you - as far as the link to the tutorial, it is in the video description directly under the video. If you are on mobile, you should only have to click the name of the video to expand the description. The programs needed to view / use the files are any PDF reader such as Adobe Acrobat, Microsoft Excel or any other clone of the program (I use Planmaker from Softmaker), and finally there is a SketchUp file that may help give some visual cues for the first panel glue-up. You can use it for free online or download SketchUp 2017 for free on their website. If you are unable to view the video description, you can go to www.muirheadphoto.com and enter the site - from there choose the “woodshop” menu option and you can find the plans there. Muito obrigado!
@@MattMuirhead ok ogrigado
Vraiment très beau bravo je m’abonne à ta chaîne 👏👍
Merci pour votre soutien! Je filmerai plus de mes projets à venir!
Oui car c’est 1 utile et 2 vraiment très beau 👏👏
@8:45 did you cut them up after you had glued them together? It looks like you cut in the same direction as the glue joins unless I’m missing something ?
This is discussed more thoroughly in the written walkthrough, this video was meant to help clarify that. This method is meant for people that either use 4/4 or multiple thicknesses of lumber, or for people that use 8/4 and want to maximize their yield with minimal waste. You can resaw your lumber and have a lot of fall-off if you’re ok with that - I generally go this route because I work with 8/4 90% of the time. I use the fall-off for box-bottoms. But if you want to have less waste, this panel cut to the proper width will save you quite a bit.
@@MattMuirhead thanks 👍🏻
Did you say that you share the spreadsheet you use to create this board?
The link to the plans on my website is in the video description. If you’re on mobile, click on the title of the video to expand the description. 👍
I believe I have the same jointer. Would you be interested in chatting with me sometime to help me on set up? And other questions I have?
I can try to answer your questions - you can reach me through the contact page on my website (in the video description).
Is there a link to your website for the description of the excel program? If so, where do I find it?
It’s in the video description. If you are on a mobile device, click the video name and the description will show.
Trabalho lindo 👏👏 9
I am curios as to why did you do the first glue up, only to cut along the seams for strips?
I discussed that briefly in the video, but in more detail in the plans. This method allows you to use any lumber you might have in hand - the reality is that a high percentage of hobbyists use nothing but 4/4 lumber. If you are using 8/4 like I am here, you can skip the first panel glue up, but you will have a lot of waste from each resaw. This method will also help reduce waste by quite a bit. Personally, I generally resaw my 8/4 and skip that first panel, but I use the falloff from the resaw for hardwood box bottoms, so it’s to my benefit.
@@MattMuirhead sorry, missed that in the video
@@cristian13ytube no apology necessary - I think i glossed over it too quickly because I get that question a lot - it’s a fair question. Resawing takes up less time and is preferred if you don’t mind the waste. If you have a really straight stick of 6/4, you can just plane it down and call it good.