How comparable is the process and parts to an Enco mill? I would love to repair my Dad's 10x54 Enco mill x axis with new lead screws and bushings. He unfortunately passed away 2 years ago and the memories I have of him running that mill makes it priceless to me, even though it's a Taiwanese mill and not a true Bridgeport. Any input from anyone is appreciated, Thanks.
Getting that saddle ballscrew in place was a real pisser. I had the yoke in backwards until I realized it hit the knee elevation bracket. Guess I should have watched this first. Now I see why they remove the locating pins.
I know these are Hiwin brand ballscrews from Taiwan. I know your website says they are drop shipped directly from the vendor and that you dont offer Int. shipping. Is this also true of the few sets your website says you have in stock? I'm wanting to replace the screws and nuts in my bridgeport to improve the backlash, but for just $1100 more I'd prefer to buy ball screw sets. What do I have to do, drive to Indiana from Ontario to get me a set? Not an altogether crazy idea because I could pick up some Indiana sugar cream pie at the same time
We do have both the 42" and 48" in stock right now. If you want to send me an email with what size you are looking for I can set aside a set for you: support@hwmachinerepair.com
@@HWMachRepair thank you for the offer, but sadly I'm going to cheap out and just order two new lead crews and the bushing rebuild kit instead. The exchange rate sucks at the moment
After installing the table, shouldn't one "calibrate" the x and y motions? How does one measure the angle of the direction of the x traverse with respect to the ram? Does the newly installed yoke guarantee that x and y traverses are perfectly perpendicular, and more or less conform to the layout of the machine? That is, that the direction of y traverse is "in line" with the ram? Thanks for posting this video.
how do you prevent the y Axis ball screw from rotating when you assemble the handle and other goodies. I am putting an old Chinese monarch mill back together and the only thing I can think to do is put a block of wood in between the table and column to stop movement, but I am thinking this is going to put a bit of pressure on my newly refurbished ball screws?
Good Morning Richard, Is this on a manual mill or on a CNC mill? I am guessing a CNC mill and if so, you would need a block of wood unless you have the original mounting tools. Give us a call at 800-285-5271 if you would like to discuss it further over the phone. -Barry
@@HWMachRepair Thank You for taking time out of your day to help people!! Yes it is a heavy duty Bridgeport style Chinese Knee mill converted to a wanna be CNC. LOL. Quite versatile actually. I installed new ball screw putting a block between the table and column, the locking nut at the end of assembly put a bit of pressure on the ball screw when installed, hopefully not enough to affect the pre-load. Thanks Again for your time.
Awesome idea. I've always been a supporter of ball screws because they work so smoothly. I however have a question for you brother. Don't you find that the table can move easily by itself when pressure is asserted or does the weight of the table prevent this happening?
Hi Pieter, Yes the table is going to move more easily than with standard screws but as long as you have it locked down properly it's not going to effect your cuts unless something really rams into it. The only time ballscrews aren't recommended is when you are doing a lot of climb cutting. If you have any questions I may be able to explain it better over the phone 1-800-285-5271
@@HWMachRepair Thanks brother, I was just wondering about it because I actually considered the idea of fitting ball screws to my small lathe at one stage and I always had the idea in my head that I will need to lock it somehow to prevent it from moving while busy machining. But today I went to pick up my brand new much bigger lathe. So, for now I will just keep it standard. Happy milling!
I own a Bridgeport that is over 50 years old and there's a lot of backlash in the x table. the ways for Y are also quite beat up with lots of deep scratches. would it be worth spending the money on a new screw? it's mostly in the middle, both ends are still tight.
It sounds like your ways are extremely worn. If you were to replace the screws it should be with ballscrews because that is going to push through the wear much better than the acme screws. In a perfect world I would say that you need to get the ways reground and scraped but ballscrews are going to help out dramatically. If you would like to discuss this over the phone please feel free to give me a call at 1-800-285-5271
H&W Machine Repair and Rebuilding, I've looked up the price for way refurbishment and it's many times the price of the machine. they're scratched but I still have very smooth travel, only issue is the backlash at about 8" from center each way. I'm looking for the most basic solution past only using the ends of the table.
There is not much more I can help out with online, I would be more than happy to discuss this with you over the phone. You can give me a call at 1-800-285-5271 or 260-422-0020, just ask for Barry.
“stretching” ballscrews is a procedure used in CNC machining centers but does not apply to either rolled ballscrew sets or ground sets on knee mill systems (Analam, Acu-Rite, Proto-Trac, etc…). -Barry
Ball screws are also good aas you can then happily do climb cutting without any problems, permitting your gibs are well adjusted. In the video they forgot to show how to put dowel pins in the yoke so it sits in place tightly and doesn't rely only on 4 bolts to keep it there.
H&W Machine Repair and Rebuilding Now THAT I'd have to disagree with. What are the lead tolerances for a rolled ballscrew? I don't know offhand myself but I doubt they are any better than a GOOD conventional leadscrew. And with a digital readout system, the screw is out of the accuracy loop entirely. Now which type screw is likely to have more backlash, that is a different story. But in manual machining backlash is of very little concern to me. I mean, I know it is there and it must be dealt with, but I deal with it very easily.
Fuzzybeanerizer Typical cheapest rolled allscrew is C7 grade, which has around 0.05 mm / 300 mm pitch error, which tends to be way better than conventional trapezoidal screw has. The cost of ballscrew is next to nothing until you get to the ones that (C3 and better) that have been ground and possibly measured with laser. It is usually the nut that costs more than the length of screw stock. But I wouldn't try to compare cheap ballscrew with a "GOOD" convenional screw, as they are two different things. Even the cheap screws have way less friction and thus are a joy to use :)
Jaakko Fagerlund As I said I'm not much familiar with ballscrews, but looking at the McMaster/Carr website I see they have inch rolled ones with accuracy of .004" per foot, and metric rolled ones with accuracy of .210 mm per 300mm. I figure .210 mm to be over .008"... I would think any decent cut leadscrew screw would beat that. I don't know if the screws installed in this video are "cheap" or just "rolled" but my comment was about this video so I was not talking about ground ballscrews. Seems like people used to warn about climb-milling runaways when manual milling with ballscrews. I never had that problem with ProtoTrak machines, but then the servo motor poles seem to add quite a bit of magnetic resistance to help prevent it. A strictly manual machine with ballscrews does not have that problem?
w/ ballscrew in there, don't you have to lock down all the non moving axis's. I understand that with Acme that problem is not as apparent and they are more forgiving of loads on the table.
Hi The music is annoying. I turned it off to watch. What is the material on the ways of the saddle? It looks as if it maybe some type of lubricant to stop friction or level the ways. Do you rebuild and sell machines?
Hi Thomas, this was one of our very first videos when we were still learning. All of our current videos have no music and we walk you through the steps. Maybe someday we will have time to remake them. The material that we use is turkite, when installed properly it acts the same way as the original cast iron ways. We use it to bring the ways back up into proper tolerance after grinding. You still need to treat it like you would any other way with proper lubrication during machine use. We both rebuild and sell refurbished machines. If you would like to call and discuss either, you can reach us at 1-800-285-5271.
You can find the different sets and pricing on our website: machinerypartsdepot.com/product/rbs-bp/ If you have any specific questions you can email me at: info@hwmachinerepair.com
We do way grinding and scraping here in the shop and this is a machine that we had just redone the ways on. We like to keep a coat of oil on them at all times after we are done to keep off the rust.
Yes we do sell the ballscrew sets, you can order the sets for the Bridgeport online: www.machinerypartsdepot.com/site/1478157/search/site?keys=ballscrew If you have any questions or have a machine other than the Bridgeport please give us a call at 1-800-285-5271 and we will be happy to help you figure out which set you need.
что это за херня?шарико винтовая пара не работает в ручном режиме,он что постоянно держит рукой создаваемое усилие при резание,трапециидальная резьба для этого и создана
согласен отчасти, но лучше какой-то фрикцион придумать и не иметь дикий люфт (даже регулируемую гайку нельзя полностью подтянуть). Хотя может для них нормально стопорить неактивные оси (про сказки что кто-то на многих осях штурвалы крутит не поверю ибо только вешалки так делать). Я люфты на винтах больше всего не люблю у ручных : пофиг на шумные коробки, чугун красота, пусть даже стол как черепаха, но выбирать люфты и по сто раз мерить - жизнь жалко. У меня один вопрос: зачем ставить швп и не приделать хотя бы шаговики - они все равно быстрее рук.
I did not see any evidence of your man replacing the dowel pins that are meant to be there in the top of the Yoke. Is that a mod of yours, a mistake of yours or is it my mistake? John.
Hi Joandar, we do not replace the dowell pins in the yoke because the original pin holes do not line up the holes in the yoke. Once we have the yoke in place and the screws tightened down the yoke is not going to move. I have some customers who go ahead and drill and install dowell pins but the vast majority do not. To this point (knock on wood) we have not had a yoke come loose on us even after shipping rebuilt machines all over the country. Give me a call at 800-285-5271 if you would like to discuss the procedure over the phone.
Thanks for your reply, as you mentioned the holes are not in line, that makes sense to not install dowel pins as from there on in it would become a real conundrum. John.
+Slappy Fistwad In our early videos we put music in the background because most people are working on loud shop environments. In all of our current videos we have someone walking you through the process.
I don't know why you'd put all that effort into an old mill that's so worn, the X axis has already been Turcited. It'd be worth doing on a machine that's in better condition.
ditto, aspiring minds want to know...no yoke we really do!!! I do see some other ways to do it like...put the lube line on first.... I was thinken about getting some for the cheep china 25mm ball screws for my clone at home.
It is NOT yolk. It is yoke.And yes the music is obnoxious, atrocious and totally unnecessary. Music has NO place in instructional videos. It is childish and totally uncalled for.
The music situation was explained in the comment literally right below this one. It's somewhat unfortunate that you let some music and a spelling error make you this upset.
![Bridgebort Milling Machine [Rescue]](/img/1.gif)
Dunno why people need to bitch about everything, sound, spelling etc. It was a great video and the restoration looks excellent, thanks for making it.
The music is like fingernails on a chalkboard, that's why.
I have been working with these machines for many years and I can assure you that they are good machines. Angel
How comparable is the process and parts to an Enco mill? I would love to repair my Dad's 10x54 Enco mill x axis with new lead screws and bushings. He unfortunately passed away 2 years ago and the memories I have of him running that mill makes it priceless to me, even though it's a Taiwanese mill and not a true Bridgeport. Any input from anyone is appreciated, Thanks.
Getting that saddle ballscrew in place was a real pisser. I had the yoke in backwards until I realized it hit the knee elevation bracket. Guess I should have watched this first. Now I see why they remove the locating pins.
Nice work. Nice clean mill there.
Can anyone tell me what size the ball screws used here were... 2505, 3205 etc? Cheers
Now that must be an expensive upgrade!!!
H&W, do you guys sell the sheet metal coils that surround the ball screw shaft? Mine has one for each side of the table. Thanks!
It's part number 1-174-9030 from the user manual. Also, great videos! They've been invaluable so far; thank you for uploading them!
No, we don't have those, but we also don't specialize in ballscrews. I might try and contact either Hiwin or Rockford and see if they do.
I know these are Hiwin brand ballscrews from Taiwan. I know your website says they are drop shipped directly from the vendor and that you dont offer Int. shipping. Is this also true of the few sets your website says you have in stock? I'm wanting to replace the screws and nuts in my bridgeport to improve the backlash, but for just $1100 more I'd prefer to buy ball screw sets.
What do I have to do, drive to Indiana from Ontario to get me a set? Not an altogether crazy idea because I could pick up some Indiana sugar cream pie at the same time
We do have both the 42" and 48" in stock right now. If you want to send me an email with what size you are looking for I can set aside a set for you: support@hwmachinerepair.com
@@HWMachRepair thank you for the offer, but sadly I'm going to cheap out and just order two new lead crews and the bushing rebuild kit instead. The exchange rate sucks at the moment
@@HWMachRepair ipire33@gmail.com
Great video
After installing the table, shouldn't one "calibrate" the x and y motions? How does one measure the angle of the direction of the x traverse with respect to the ram? Does the newly installed yoke guarantee that x and y traverses are perfectly perpendicular, and more or less conform to the layout of the machine? That is, that the direction of y traverse is "in line" with the ram? Thanks for posting this video.
Perpendicularity is from the ways, not from the lead screw.
Yolk is for eggs. Yoke is oxen (and ballscrews)
Très bien expliqué!
how do you prevent the y Axis ball screw from rotating when you assemble the handle and other goodies. I am putting an old Chinese monarch mill back together and the only thing I can think to do is put a block of wood in between the table and column to stop movement, but I am thinking this is going to put a bit of pressure on my newly refurbished ball screws?
Good Morning Richard,
Is this on a manual mill or on a CNC mill? I am guessing a CNC mill and if so, you would need a block of wood unless you have the original mounting tools. Give us a call at 800-285-5271 if you would like to discuss it further over the phone. -Barry
@@HWMachRepair Thank You for taking time out of your day to help people!! Yes it is a heavy duty Bridgeport style Chinese Knee mill converted to a wanna be CNC. LOL. Quite versatile actually. I installed new ball screw putting a block between the table and column, the locking nut at the end of assembly put a bit of pressure on the ball screw when installed, hopefully not enough to affect the pre-load. Thanks Again for your time.
Awesome idea. I've always been a supporter of ball screws because they work so smoothly. I however have a question for you brother. Don't you find that the table can move easily by itself when pressure is asserted or does the weight of the table prevent this happening?
Hi Pieter, Yes the table is going to move more easily than with standard screws but as long as you have it locked down properly it's not going to effect your cuts unless something really rams into it. The only time ballscrews aren't recommended is when you are doing a lot of climb cutting. If you have any questions I may be able to explain it better over the phone 1-800-285-5271
@@HWMachRepair Thanks brother, I was just wondering about it because I actually considered the idea of fitting ball screws to my small lathe at one stage and I always had the idea in my head that I will need to lock it somehow to prevent it from moving while busy machining. But today I went to pick up my brand new much bigger lathe. So, for now I will just keep it standard. Happy milling!
I own a Bridgeport that is over 50 years old and there's a lot of backlash in the x table. the ways for Y are also quite beat up with lots of deep scratches. would it be worth spending the money on a new screw? it's mostly in the middle, both ends are still tight.
It sounds like your ways are extremely worn. If you were to replace the screws it should be with ballscrews because that is going to push through the wear much better than the acme screws. In a perfect world I would say that you need to get the ways reground and scraped but ballscrews are going to help out dramatically. If you would like to discuss this over the phone please feel free to give me a call at 1-800-285-5271
H&W Machine Repair and Rebuilding, I've looked up the price for way refurbishment and it's many times the price of the machine. they're scratched but I still have very smooth travel, only issue is the backlash at about 8" from center each way. I'm looking for the most basic solution past only using the ends of the table.
There is not much more I can help out with online, I would be more than happy to discuss this with you over the phone. You can give me a call at 1-800-285-5271 or 260-422-0020, just ask for Barry.
Well I like the music. Who is it ? . Thanks for the vid, I didn't know the ballscrew could creep under manual control . Cheers.
I was told that after installing ballscrews they must be properly stretched to true them?
“stretching” ballscrews is a procedure used in CNC machining centers but does not apply to either rolled ballscrew sets or ground sets on knee mill systems (Analam, Acu-Rite, Proto-Trac, etc…). -Barry
How to get some Part's of Bridgeport Mill, because I will try to overhaul about this machine...
What are the advantages to a ball screw set on a bridge, I am doing a full overhaul on mine so I want to know what it is good for
Ballscrews are good if you are doing precision work. They have a much better accuracy, especially if you have a Digital Readout System installed.
Ball screws are also good aas you can then happily do climb cutting without any problems, permitting your gibs are well adjusted.
In the video they forgot to show how to put dowel pins in the yoke so it sits in place tightly and doesn't rely only on 4 bolts to keep it there.
H&W Machine Repair and Rebuilding Now THAT I'd have to disagree with. What are the lead tolerances for a rolled ballscrew? I don't know offhand myself but I doubt they are any better than a GOOD conventional leadscrew. And with a digital readout system, the screw is out of the accuracy loop entirely. Now which type screw is likely to have more backlash, that is a different story. But in manual machining backlash is of very little concern to me. I mean, I know it is there and it must be dealt with, but I deal with it very easily.
Fuzzybeanerizer
Typical cheapest rolled allscrew is C7 grade, which has around 0.05 mm / 300 mm pitch error, which tends to be way better than conventional trapezoidal screw has. The cost of ballscrew is next to nothing until you get to the ones that (C3 and better) that have been ground and possibly measured with laser. It is usually the nut that costs more than the length of screw stock.
But I wouldn't try to compare cheap ballscrew with a "GOOD" convenional screw, as they are two different things.
Even the cheap screws have way less friction and thus are a joy to use :)
Jaakko Fagerlund As I said I'm not much familiar with ballscrews, but looking at the McMaster/Carr website I see they have inch rolled ones with accuracy of .004" per foot, and metric rolled ones with accuracy of .210 mm per 300mm. I figure .210 mm to be over .008"... I would think any decent cut leadscrew screw would beat that. I don't know if the screws installed in this video are "cheap" or just "rolled" but my comment was about this video so I was not talking about ground ballscrews. Seems like people used to warn about climb-milling runaways when manual milling with ballscrews. I never had that problem with ProtoTrak machines, but then the servo motor poles seem to add quite a bit of magnetic resistance to help prevent it. A strictly manual machine with ballscrews does not have that problem?
THEM LOOK LIKE SOME NICE BALL SCREWS, WHAT BRAND ARE THEY. WHERE ARE THEY MADE?
Thank you. We use Hiwin brand ballscrews and they are made in Taiwan. They are the best brand that we have found in the cost to quality ratio.
thank for replying.
please can you tell me the diameter of the x and y ballscrew?
If you email me I can send you over the tech drawings for both the X&Y axis screws: support@hwmachinerepair.com
@@HWMachRepair thanks so much dear
Nice Mod, that'd be a "Yoke"
I thought that we caught all the misspells, sorry about that.
wow. that's it.... check for binding, etc... No?
Eggs have yolks, machinery has yokes.
Depends on the operator and whether it's near breakfast time or not!
w/ ballscrew in there, don't you have to lock down all the non moving axis's. I understand that with Acme that problem is not as apparent and they are more forgiving of loads on the table.
It is advised that you lock out the axis's that you aren't using.
The yolk? Perhaps you mean the YOKE......
Hi
The music is annoying. I turned it off to watch. What is the material on the ways of the saddle? It looks as if it maybe some type of lubricant to stop friction or level the ways.
Do you rebuild and sell machines?
Hi Thomas, this was one of our very first videos when we were still learning. All of our current videos have no music and we walk you through the steps. Maybe someday we will have time to remake them. The material that we use is turkite, when installed properly it acts the same way as the original cast iron ways. We use it to bring the ways back up into proper tolerance after grinding. You still need to treat it like you would any other way with proper lubrication during machine use. We both rebuild and sell refurbished machines. If you would like to call and discuss either, you can reach us at 1-800-285-5271.
where can one get the screws?
Hi Alex, we sell them on our website, or you can call us at 1-800-285-5271 : www.machinerypartsdepot.com/product/RBS-BP
Whats the cost of the kit?
You can find the different sets and pricing on our website: machinerypartsdepot.com/product/rbs-bp/ If you have any specific questions you can email me at: info@hwmachinerepair.com
Is that turcite on the ways
Yes, we add turkite to bring the ways back up to level and square after grinding.
background music quite annoying…
Background music was great and quite neutral with no lyrics, go listen to some shitty boomer rock.
Easy solution, turn volume off .
Why are the ways so shiny. Shouldn't they not be so shiny. Loke there is no oil holes now right
We do way grinding and scraping here in the shop and this is a machine that we had just redone the ways on. We like to keep a coat of oil on them at all times after we are done to keep off the rust.
what is the name of this sheet that blue sheet on slides
Hi, that's turkite. It's what we use to bring the ways back up to specs after we grind them to flat.
You can also use rulon from 3M. Rulon is more durable in my opinion.
Tengo malogrado el tornillo
Hello Red Cross, you have to sell it?, I need to buy. Reply Thank you. Best Regards
Yes we do sell the ballscrew sets, you can order the sets for the Bridgeport online: www.machinerypartsdepot.com/site/1478157/search/site?keys=ballscrew
If you have any questions or have a machine other than the Bridgeport please give us a call at 1-800-285-5271 and we will be happy to help you figure out which set you need.
Take three Egg Yokes, add steel filings, cook at 180C for 2 hours........!
"Yolk" is a common misspelling of "Yoke" by yokels.
что это за херня?шарико винтовая пара не работает в ручном режиме,он что постоянно держит рукой создаваемое усилие при резание,трапециидальная резьба для этого и создана
согласен отчасти, но лучше какой-то фрикцион придумать и не иметь дикий люфт (даже регулируемую гайку нельзя полностью подтянуть). Хотя может для них нормально стопорить неактивные оси (про сказки что кто-то на многих осях штурвалы крутит не поверю ибо только вешалки так делать). Я люфты на винтах больше всего не люблю у ручных : пофиг на шумные коробки, чугун красота, пусть даже стол как черепаха, но выбирать люфты и по сто раз мерить - жизнь жалко. У меня один вопрос: зачем ставить швп и не приделать хотя бы шаговики - они все равно быстрее рук.
احسنت بارك الله فيك
where can I get the set
Hi Andy, we sell them on our website or you can call us at 1-800-285-5271 www.machinerypartsdepot.com/product/RBS-BP
chec the sound
I did not see any evidence of your man replacing the dowel pins that are meant to be there in the top of the Yoke. Is that a mod of yours, a mistake of yours or is it my mistake? John.
Hi Joandar, we do not replace the dowell pins in the yoke because the original pin holes do not line up the holes in the yoke. Once we have the yoke in place and the screws tightened down the yoke is not going to move. I have some customers who go ahead and drill and install dowell pins but the vast majority do not. To this point (knock on wood) we have not had a yoke come loose on us even after shipping rebuilt machines all over the country. Give me a call at 800-285-5271 if you would like to discuss the procedure over the phone.
Thanks for your reply, as you mentioned the holes are not in line, that makes sense to not install dowel pins as from there on in it would become a real conundrum. John.
Why that horrible music? Good video, bad BAD audio.
That music
Creepy background 'music'
obnoxious music
+Slappy Fistwad In our early videos we put music in the background because most people are working on loud shop environments. In all of our current videos we have someone walking you through the process.
Yoke! Look at the printed word on the parts list! Yoke! Yoke!
You are not talking about eggs here🤦🏻♂️
จตุพร
That was a bitching drumming piece!
Yoke, not yolk.
As long as it's not Chinese trash! These Chinese ball screws are as bad as you can get.
แก
I don't know why you'd put all that effort into an old mill that's so worn, the X axis has already been Turcited. It'd be worth doing on a machine that's in better condition.
What..? This machine has been reconditioned into original spec.. So it IS in top condition.
What a dumb comment
Worst music ever. I'm wearing earbuds, and seriously, that electric tapping noise is the worst.
I had to turn the sound off
Perfect wrong way to do it.
ditto, aspiring minds want to know...no yoke we really do!!! I do see some other ways to do it like...put the lube line on first.... I was thinken about getting some for the cheep china 25mm ball screws for my clone at home.
@riflessss
Noice dumbasss knowitall MsSuperdong doesn't answer - that say something about how little MsSuperdonghead knows!
It is NOT yolk. It is yoke.And yes the music is obnoxious, atrocious and totally unnecessary. Music has NO place in instructional videos. It is childish and totally uncalled for.
The music situation was explained in the comment literally right below this one. It's somewhat unfortunate that you let some music and a spelling error make you this upset.
Can't grammer...I'll pass.
See ya