Isn’t it great to watch an expert at work. A straight to the point video. If you need to do this you will know exactly what to needs to be done. A good video and a good job Thanks.
Just got a 32" X 9" dove tail ram BP made in 1959. It was previously owned by a grinding shop that is now gone. Apparently some one at the grinding shop worked on this BP as the table shows about 0.0005" across the entire 20" of travel across the table on the dial indicator. Lead screws are tight. This BP does need cleaning if not for these videos, getting this BP cleaned and complete would be that much more difficult. ~These videos are not only very helpful, watching Barry work in these BPs are excellent, to the point, clear as to how to get it done, Big THANKS for these extremely useful videos for BP owners-users.
Thank you for posting all the Bridgeport videos. I recently acquired one that has a lot of surface rust and has sat neglected for years. These videos have been a ton of help for getting it refurbished and running again.
This is such an informative video that I used it to disassemble a Tree Mill I have. I intend to do the same with an "M" head Bridgeport that I have- thank you!
I am currently amateurishly rebuilding a round arm with a J head half way across the world - you have been an invaluable source _ don't know how I can thank you.
Excellent video Barry! I’m getting ready to purchase a Bridgeport just as I am finishing up my 13” South Bend Lathe. I was just doing the research on the Bridgeport and found your video. This is exactly what I’ll be using when I rebuild. Thank you very much!
Hi Berry nice to see you are back over to RUclips and putting up a nice new video of working on a Bridgeport Knee Mill. We will never tire of watching machinery rebuilding in the precision machining world we get to also call home. Nice last part at the end touch. Lance & Patrick.
Thanks all your videos are very helpful. I had no idea the wipers were supposed to be changed so often. Do you have a video focused on steps to just changing the wipers?
Really enjoyed the presentation here. Great filming too. I have a Clausing 8520 that I rebuilt but a Bridgeport is not that far out in my future. Thanks guys!
That is so great "replace the filter" says the kid filming - hey is that your kid - what a great kid remembering that you gotta replace there filter - priceless.
That is Barry's daughter Virginia who works in the front office (she also film's and edits most of the videos). Not so much a kid anymore, she's going to be 37 in June. She started in the shop by tearing down and putting back together the Bridgeport bases, so she's quite knowledgeable on the Bijur oiling systems.
OOps prbably thought it was a kid because she said it in a hushed tone - irrespective of her age what a knowledgable and extremely helpful offspring - it gave the video a great touch.@@HWMachRepair
love these video's. i have now watched pretty much all of them and noticed that other makes are in the backround. any videos coming on some of those?? also noticed that during a quill reassembly, that bearing orientation is critical, but you dont mention orientation on the bearings for the drive assemblies??? keep them coming. WHEN i do get a mill, these are the videos to watch for maintenance, will probably have the computer running at the mill when R&R.
Constructive criticism on your use of groove joint pliers: Turn them around the other way, you are using them backwards. When used in the correct orientation your clamping force increases as you turn them, lessening the force you need to squeeze them closed. I have learned this from daily use as a plumber.
Those old B&L Accu-rites do last. The wipers/gasket flaps on the glass scales tend to break after awhile, then they get oil/dirt on the glass. Using an air hose to blow away chips ensures it.
Thanks for this detailed explanation of the disassembly! Can you offer any advice for students training on a heavily-used mill (Tree UVR) where the bean counters in charge won't pay for a rebuild? While we don't have a lot of money for repairs, we do have a lot of our not-yet-valuable time. Thanks!
Tree mills are becoming very rare and for the most part obsolete which is unfortunate because they were great machines in their day. The best you can do when the money department won't spend is disassemble, clean and make sure it has plenty of lube. Maybe shim some gibs if you have excessive play. If you every have an specific questions give us a call at 800-285-5271.
I have a Trump mill, but it appears to be very similarly built to a BP. Is the cap that's at 9:17 have a lip that holds the cross feet nut in place from backing out, or is it just the Feed Nut Retaining Screw or Washer Head Screw like you did with the Longitudinal Screw? I think ours blew out and I may have to machine a new one but you sped the video up in that section.
The Bridgeport has a small lip on the nut bracket to hold it in place in the back and the two screws that hold it in front. There are some imports who have the "lip" on the nut itself and is held on by an adjusting nut. You will have to get into that section of the machine to see which kind you have. If you have any questions you can give us a call 1-800-285-5271
Very solid company! They are very professional and easy to work with, we had a series I head rebuilt by them and also purchased a complete spare head. #HooverDamMachineShop
Unfortunately that is not going to be something we are ever going to show, not because we don't want people doing it themselves, but because it's not something you are going to learn through a video. There are a lot of nuances that you can only learn by doing it in person, and we don't want people thinking they can do it and then mess up the ways even more.
ty. I'm breaking one down to remove grease. I got stuck on the elevating shaft. My wear is looking really really bad. Worst I've seen actually. Gaining so much experience and hindsight :)
I've been waiting for a video like this. I have a 1976 model series 1. The knee lock on my Bridgeport is not working the greatest. The head on my machine was completely rebuilt a few years back. The saddle and the knee need a little bit of love. I've bought some parts from you guys in the past. I'm looking forward to watching the whole video and making a list of parts for my machine. Mine has the old Mitutoyo readout,...Still works!
Pull the knee lock shaft and the knee lock plunger. The plunger has a 1/4"-20 tapped hole in it to aid in removal. If the cam on the knee lock shaft is really worn you'll see groves on it and need to replace it. If you're lucky and the cam is OK, you'll probably just need to replace the plunger. Put a little high pressure grease or Never-Seez on the cam before reassembling.
@@pedrowhack-a-mole6786 Will I be able to inspect all these parts without having to pull the knee off of the mill? Edit: oh I see, the plunger can get pulled out through the little access cover on the side, by threading a 1/4 20 screw and yanking it out. Thanks man. I'm gonna check it out this weekend
@@pedrowhack-a-mole6786 Well, it turns out that both the plunger and cam were just fine. My gib needed to be tightened up. I tightened it up almost 2 turns on the screw checking the full travel range for stiffness, and the wear, if any is not perceptible in the knee. Even the felt wipers on it don't look to be that old. The ways on this machine are in terrific shape. All the factory flake marks are as if this thing was either rebuilt completely or it saw very little use. I've owned this machine for over 6 yrs now, but I never really went through it to adjust the gibs and things . I just put it to work in my hobby shop, but i'd get some chatter taking heavy cuts if I didn't lock the knee. I'm gonna tighten up the gibs on the x and y axis also to try and tighten it up a little. Sometimes a little tune up is all a machine needs get it good as new.
Thanks for the video, I've been using Bridgeport's and other knee mills for around 26 years and never knew how they came apart. Do you grind or scrape the ways to refurbish them and is their an estimate on the cost of having it done if everything is broken down as in this video?
Hi Phill. If we received the table, saddle, knee, and the gibs we can do the ways for $3000. If you have any questions you can give me a call at 1-800-285-5271.
We have people build small crates sometimes. We also have people just strap them down and put wrap over them. If they are sent in a crate we will return it in the same crate, but if they aren't we use shipping straps and stretch wrap to secure them to the pallet. The gibs and yoke are returned on a box on the same pallet.
Hi there, I am blacksmith and bladesmith, and I am in need of a milling machine, but I have very limited space. Which small mill would you recommend? I'd be using it to machine surfaces of billets that will generally be 1"x2"x15". I was looking at an old hardinge bb2v, but the collets on those things are no longer made. Anything you could recommend would be most appreciated.
Good Afternoon, There are some old Bridgeport mills that have 32” tables that do not take up a lot of space. If you have a J style head with the R-8 spindle the cost of collets would be very inexpensive. I am not sure where you are located but I would keep my eye open for one in your area. Give us a call at 800-285-5271 if you would like to discuss it further over the phone. -Barry
Great video ! Do you sell used mills as well ? I live in Indianapolis and have been looking for a good Bridgeport mill for my garage. Thanks for the information Berry.
We don't come across many decent used Bridgeports that we sell outright. Usually we take older used Bridgeports and refurbish them. If you want a quote on a refurbished unit email me at: support@hwmachinerepair.com and I can email one over to you.
@@HWMachRepair thank you so very much. I would much rather purchase one from you being you are more local, I prefer to support business in my state/community and of of course buying American made. So I will definitely be emailing you for a qoute and if its within my budget I'd love to drive over and meet your salesperson, and maybe take a close look. Thank you for your response 🙏
Great video. my old step head could use a tune up. If I send you the table, saddle and knee for scrapping what happens with the wear on the column ways? And what is approx. charge for you do the three parts including top of table on a 9 x 49 table?
You say you have a 49" table. If so, what brand is the mill. The standard Bridgeport Series I would have a 42" or 48". The cost to complete the X&Y axis way work if you send us the table, saddle, knee and all gibs will run $3,000.00 and that will include all way grinding, installed turkite on the top and bottom of the saddle to bring it back to original height, hand scraping the ways to flat and square with a pristine column we have here just for these jobs and hand scraping the gibs back to proper fit. If you column ways have bad wear it will still be there. When we have to do a column all that work is done by hand and involves complete tear down and having the column laying on its back.
Excellent video, just what I needed. I have to remove the bed to get the machine though my narrow gate. Do you know how heavy the 42in bed and crossslide motorised unit is? Thank you. Bob
Sorry about the late reply, I don't get to the comment here as quickly as I like sometimes. The weight on a 42" table itself is about 210 lbs. I don't know what kind of motorized unit you have, but an old Bridgeport power feed is around 30 lbs.
I missed the removal of the knee elevation screw/shaft. Although I know it's a matter of unscrewing it up and out of the nut on the knee elevation pedestal, but it would have been nice to see how you do it. Any chance of doing a supplement video? I have found your Bridgeport rebuild videos to be very helpful in rebuilding my Acer (BP clone) mill. Thanx for all your help!
That part is just unscrewing the three screws on the nut and lifting it out. There isn't anything else holding it in except for the screws. It should be the same on an Acer. Let me know if you need any other help and I can see if we can do a short video on that.
@@HWMachRepair Can it cause any damage with the column gibs removed and the knee sitting on the elevating screw? I read somewhere it should be braced before removing gibs
I didn't take the feednut locking screw out of the bracket just wound the x axis lead screw out and left the brass feed nuts in till I got the table off im afraid I'll be spending some bucks for both x & y lead screws they look shot but is a round ram built in 1954 I'll cut it some slack
Nice work. I’m wondering if you’re familiar w Alec Steele’s channel and his beautiful Bridgeport machine that arrived badly broken from the shipping co?
I am not familiar with Alec's channel but I will say that shipping companies are sometime my worst enemies! We shipped a complete rebuilt Bridgeport to one company where they cut the 6'x6' custom made pallet down to 4'x4' removing the main supports and were surprised when the machine tipped over in their truck.
H&W Machine Repair and Rebuilding I’m a custom guitar builder. I’ve experienced a few shipping horror stories of my own. You spend months working on project only to have it destroyed in seconds by some careless, non-thinking shipper is incredibly painful.
I love watching some one else take down a machine. Machine repair was one of my jobs for 30 years but I only went into a Bridgeport base far enough to replace the chip guards or fix lube lines. I just bought a Bridgeport with a 32" table and very little wear for personal use. I had one like it only older at work that also was very tight when we got it, and still is the lowest wear Bridgeport there. Anybody know if the older machines with 32" or 42" tables were better or was it just that the more modern machines, with their 48" and 52" tables, just put more wear on the dovetails and screws? I argue both are true.
We have rebuilt many of the older machines and well as many of the newer and the iron on the machines from the 50's and 60's is a little more substantial but the modern machine have much superior lubrication systems. We have seen all vintage of these machines completely trashed out. It really comes down to how well the machine was taken care of.
Thank you, This is posssibly the most detailed video on youtube. I have a difficult bridgeport move coming up soon and was wondering if you had an accurate weight of the column and the knee? I am removing the whole head and cross feed, but am wondering if I need to remove the knee.
Yes, we do have weights for each component. The column weighs 775 lbs and the knee weighs 225 lbs. If you need the weights of each component send us an email and we will send it out to you.
It's on this page, #14 (PN: 1150): ruclips.net/user/attribution_link?a=85-9DCi8hF45OF8y&u=/watch%3Fv%3D95yVkqInRxc%26lc%3DUgyE8J3VhfX72zAVjUZ4AaABAg%26feature%3Dem-comments
At time 36:00 Barry tells us on the knee lock there are TWO set screws and we need to remove them BOTH.....I should have paid closer attention to that small detail. After nearly giving myself a hernia twisting and jerking on the handle (and breaking it in the process), and hammering with a punch on the back side, and lots of four letter words, I finally gave up. Came back to watch again to make sure there wasn’t something I missed.....oops :-)
My backlash adjustment screw (8:40) is bottomed out and l have .140" backlash. Does this typically mean that the lead screw is worn or can I just replace the bushing? Thank you
If your nut is bottomed out and you still have that much backlash then it would be normal to have the screw also worn out. Check the backlash in the middle then crank the table to the end and check the backlash. The difference will be the wear in your screw. -Barry
Great video. Are you aware the parts numbers don't match. I was looking for the nut size that holds the crank handles on the X axis. 1163 to 1167 are al coming up as reducers. :(
Hi Andy. Here are the two parts that you are needing. I just searched and they came up fine on my website: www.machinerypartsdepot.com/product/1167 and www.machinerypartsdepot.com/product/1163 You can also check on the Leadscrew Assembly diagram on the website: www.machinerypartsdepot.com/store/1478157/page/549798 Feel free to give us a call if you have any other questions. 1-800-285-5271 -Barry
Now that the knee is off, at some point during the cleaning and "dialing in" of the various items... Is it a bad idea to drill and two for one and or two additional gib/jib lock handles, beings it is completely accessible... Yes, I realize this model has the cam-lock style already built in... Just wondering if it would be a think ahead type move to just do, for 50 years down the road when the fam lock is worn out... Let alone, the idea that the one up high, and one down low, would clamp more evenly... What do you think??? Anybody can add their two cents, won't hurt to hear some theorized opinions or factual info as to why or why not... Thank you, Dru
Good Afternoon Dru - I can’t see any reason that doing it would hurt. You would need to nail the location of the lock holes do you lock pins would fit correctly but other than that it should work out fine. We have never found a reason to add locks because if we run into an issue during the rebuild we replace either the lock handle or the lock itself. You can give me a call if you have any other questions 1-800-285-5271 - Barry
Good Morning Joven, Where is it stopping while traveling back and forth? How much travel do you actually have? It sounds like the key may have worked its way out of the yoke but there could be other issues causing the problem. Give us a call at 800-285-5271 when you get a chance so we can discuss the issue further over the phone. - Barry
I just disassembled my Bridgeport and followed this video to a t. Everything went well till I removed the knee/column gib and it was very tight and the little groove broke off the top, the screw came out, but the gib stayed in and self wedged itself to the point I cant get it out. I tried tapping on the bottom, but it is wedged tight any suggestions on what I can do? Thanx
Good Afternoon Randall, You will need to give us a call at 800-285-5271 to discuss the next steps. It can sometimes get very ugly and difficult to get the gib out but we can discuss it over the phone. -Barry
Any recommendations on removing the linear scale if it's an old Mitutoyo AT-109 (installed as part of a Mitutoyo GML-3705W DRO) without messing up the alignment?
The removal of it isn’t the issue, but the remounting of it. I would recommend contacting Mitutoyo to see if they will get you a set of the alignment brackets for an AT109 to make it easier for the removal and reassembly. If you want to talk through it, you can give us a call at 1-800-285-5271, just ask for Jon.
There are two things that could be causing that issue. You may not have enough oil getting to those column ways or your gib is to tight. Pour some oil directly onto the ways and move it up and down a few times. If the skipping disappears, you will have to troubleshoot why those ways aren't getting oil. If they still skip after the oil, loosen the gib slightly and see if it stops. You can always give us a call if you need further help 1-800-285-5271
This 1981 mill looks mint compared to the 1960s mills I recently sold, I had nine of them that we bought new, sold seven of them, just don't use m anymore.
The backlash adjustment screw (8:40) on mine is broken, and the backlash is horrific. Must remove table... I have a small shop, and it's going to be real pain to get the BP to a place where I can slide the table off to one side, it's the long table like that one. I do have a hoist over the table, if I remove the gib will the table lift straight up? I'll probably be ordering some parts. So glad you made this video!
The table will not lift off with the gib out but you can slide the table all the way over to access the yoke without removing the table. It would be helpful if you could get a die cart under the one side but I have worked on-site in similar situations and slide the table over far enough but you have to leave the gib in to do it.
We have a wash bay with a pressurized hose that we use to clean the components before grinding. If something is a little extra nasty, we will spray it down with our purple soap first, which is actually industrial strength carpet cleaner. We have found that works the best for getting rid of hard caked on grease and grime. -Barry
Ok so I’ve watched this video multiple times a day for the last 2 weeks finally got to the part where I take the gib out of the knee and it’s stuck and I don’t know what to do.
You will need to call the shop and speak to either Barry or Zach. We will need to know where the knee is in the travel, is the tab broken off of the gib and other things. Call us at 800-285-5271.
I have to disagree. First, we're talking refurbishment not restoration. A well maintained or refurbished Bridgeport will out-perform any of the import knee mills out there. They just aren't rigid enough to take the cuts or hold the tolerances a Bridgeport is capable of. If you are referring to the general utility of manual machines versus CNC machines, there are a million jobs that can be performed much faster manually then by setting up a CNC. tooling is still readily available, and lastly is the sense of satisfaction of making something on a mill by hand.
@@pedrowhack-a-mole6786 You completely missed it. Maybe I was not explicit enough. An early Bridgeport (in decent operating condition) is worth about 1,000.00 in my area (Michigan). A later model with variable speed about 1,500.00 and add 500.00 for a dro and one power-feed axis.There are much better older American mills available in the same price range than Bridgeports. I work with both manual mills and lathes and cnc mills and lathes. I do not think this mill is worth the investment. Just my opinion.
@@istvanmeissler2238 I do respect your opinion. I know I'm being a cheer leader for Bridgeport, but 32 years working with and repairing a variety of mills of various vintages gives me some insight and justification for being so. And that after more then 80 years they are still being made, and copied, and R8 tooling is plentiful and inexpensive, also speaks to their worth. I agree that some older mills are superior in some respects, but that the versatility of the Bridgeport mill overshadows that. Just out of curiosity, what do you favor in place of a Bridgeport mill?
We do 50 - 60 complete Bridgeport Series I rebuilds a year in addition to several lathe, grinders and other brand mills we rebuild. The big advantage to the older Bridgeport is that parts will be available for years to come. We stock parts for Bridgeports that were built back in the 50's.
![Bridgebort Milling Machine [Rescue]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zGv7MkdIP_w/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the finest video content available on the subject. Many thanks for the hard work.
These videos have been a lifesaver, I would have made so many mistakes restoring my mill if you hadn't made these.
Virginia is the brains behind this operation. :) Thanks Virginia. Great video.
Isn’t it great to watch an expert at work. A straight to the point video. If you need to do this you will know exactly what to needs to be done. A good video and a good job
Thanks.
Just got a 32" X 9" dove tail ram BP made in 1959. It was previously owned by a grinding shop that is now gone. Apparently some one at the grinding shop worked on this BP as the table shows about 0.0005" across the entire 20" of travel across the table on the dial indicator. Lead screws are tight. This BP does need cleaning if not for these videos, getting this BP cleaned and complete would be that much more difficult.
~These videos are not only very helpful, watching Barry work in these BPs are excellent, to the point, clear as to how to get it done, Big THANKS for these extremely useful videos for BP owners-users.
We will
Thank you for posting all the Bridgeport videos. I recently acquired one that has a lot of surface rust and has sat neglected for years. These videos have been a ton of help for getting it refurbished and running again.
This is such an informative video that I used it to disassemble a Tree Mill I have. I intend to do the same with an "M" head Bridgeport that I have- thank you!
I am currently amateurishly rebuilding a round arm with a J head half way across the world - you have been an invaluable source _ don't know how I can thank you.
Great job Barry! You look like you could tear this Bridgeport down in your sleep! Very professional work! Thank you!
Excellent explanation. I’m considering on getting an used bridgeport and this video helped a lot. I have no idea how to disassemble it. Thanks.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to record, edit, and share with us. =0)
Great quality video, with excellent commentary along the way!
Thank you for this video. I'm considering a Bridgeport for my home shop, this video explained the disassembly clearly!
Followup to myself. I bought the mill and I'm using this video to help my restoration. Thanks again!!
Thanks for showing that, I am sure others will find it helpful. Charles
Excellent video Barry! I’m getting ready to purchase a Bridgeport just as I am finishing up my 13” South Bend Lathe. I was just doing the research on the Bridgeport and found your video. This is exactly what I’ll be using when I rebuild. Thank you very much!
Glad we could help. Keep us in mind if you need any parts.
Great tutorial. I always enjoy your videos and learn a lot.
Excellent, lucid procedural. Thanks so much!
Hey guys. I really appreciate your tutorials. New mill owner. Needed to take the table off to get it inside. Thanks a bunch.
the videos helped me tear apart my mill, thanks
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work
Hi Berry nice to see you are back over to RUclips and putting up a nice new video of working on a Bridgeport Knee Mill. We will never tire of watching machinery rebuilding in the precision machining world we get to also call home. Nice last part at the end touch.
Lance & Patrick.
Thanks all your videos are very helpful. I had no idea the wipers were supposed to be changed so often. Do you have a video focused on steps to just changing the wipers?
Really enjoyed the presentation here. Great filming too. I have a Clausing 8520 that I rebuilt but a Bridgeport is not that far out in my future. Thanks guys!
God damn these are the best Bridgeport (by extension BP clone) videos around especially for the hobbyist community.
Excellent video!
That is so great "replace the filter" says the kid filming - hey is that your kid - what a great kid remembering that you gotta replace there filter - priceless.
That is Barry's daughter Virginia who works in the front office (she also film's and edits most of the videos). Not so much a kid anymore, she's going to be 37 in June. She started in the shop by tearing down and putting back together the Bridgeport bases, so she's quite knowledgeable on the Bijur oiling systems.
OOps prbably thought it was a kid because she said it in a hushed tone - irrespective of her age what a knowledgable and extremely helpful offspring - it gave the video a great touch.@@HWMachRepair
love these video's. i have now watched pretty much all of them and noticed that other makes are in the backround. any videos coming on some of those?? also noticed that during a quill reassembly, that bearing orientation is critical, but you dont mention orientation on the bearings for the drive assemblies??? keep them coming. WHEN i do get a mill, these are the videos to watch for maintenance, will probably have the computer running at the mill when R&R.
Great video, I'm sure this has helped many people thank you for making it.
2:35 LAB! Lab my favorite breed - man's best friend - glad to see him - he's an old timer aint he
Lab's are great, his name is Duke and he's 12 this year.
Constructive criticism on your use of groove joint pliers: Turn them around the other way, you are using them backwards. When used in the correct orientation your clamping force increases as you turn them, lessening the force you need to squeeze them closed. I have learned this from daily use as a plumber.
Excellent video, very educational
Awesome! I’m guessing you’ve done that once or a hundred times before. Thanks Barry!
Great video !
Those old B&L Accu-rites do last. The wipers/gasket flaps on the glass scales tend to break after awhile, then they get oil/dirt on the glass. Using an air hose to blow away chips ensures it.
Told me just what I needed to know, Thanks!
Barry, get a pair of knipex parallel jaw pliers, you'll love them. 7 inch handle is my favorite size, 1-3/8" max throat.
Thanks for this detailed explanation of the disassembly! Can you offer any advice for students training on a heavily-used mill (Tree UVR) where the bean counters in charge won't pay for a rebuild? While we don't have a lot of money for repairs, we do have a lot of our not-yet-valuable time. Thanks!
Tree mills are becoming very rare and for the most part obsolete which is unfortunate because they were great machines in their day. The best you can do when the money department won't spend is disassemble, clean and make sure it has plenty of lube. Maybe shim some gibs if you have excessive play. If you every have an specific questions give us a call at 800-285-5271.
Excellent video! How did you remove the lead screw from the knee ? That seems to be skipped, just threaded it out?
Thank you! Yes, it just threads off.
I have a Trump mill, but it appears to be very similarly built to a BP. Is the cap that's at 9:17 have a lip that holds the cross feet nut in place from backing out, or is it just the Feed Nut Retaining Screw or Washer Head Screw like you did with the Longitudinal Screw? I think ours blew out and I may have to machine a new one but you sped the video up in that section.
The Bridgeport has a small lip on the nut bracket to hold it in place in the back and the two screws that hold it in front. There are some imports who have the "lip" on the nut itself and is held on by an adjusting nut. You will have to get into that section of the machine to see which kind you have. If you have any questions you can give us a call 1-800-285-5271
Very solid company! They are very professional and easy to work with, we had a series I head rebuilt by them and also purchased a complete spare head. #HooverDamMachineShop
When are you gonna show us some scraping? That would be a great video! And thank you for all the others
Unfortunately that is not going to be something we are ever going to show, not because we don't want people doing it themselves, but because it's not something you are going to learn through a video. There are a lot of nuances that you can only learn by doing it in person, and we don't want people thinking they can do it and then mess up the ways even more.
ty. I'm breaking one down to remove grease. I got stuck on the elevating shaft. My wear is looking really really bad. Worst I've seen actually. Gaining so much experience and hindsight :)
Impact wrench saves bolts on removal. Hand wrench saves machines on assembly...
Very helpful. This is great. Thanks Barry.
Great videos. Just acquired 3 machines. I’ll be referencing your videos
I've been waiting for a video like this. I have a 1976 model series 1. The knee lock on my Bridgeport is not working the greatest. The head on my machine was completely rebuilt a few years back. The saddle and the knee need a little bit of love. I've bought some parts from you guys in the past. I'm looking forward to watching the whole video and making a list of parts for my machine. Mine has the old Mitutoyo readout,...Still works!
Pull the knee lock shaft and the knee lock plunger. The plunger has a 1/4"-20 tapped hole in it to aid in removal. If the cam on the knee lock shaft is really worn you'll see groves on it and need to replace it. If you're lucky and the cam is OK, you'll probably just need to replace the plunger. Put a little high pressure grease or Never-Seez on the cam before reassembling.
@@pedrowhack-a-mole6786 Will I be able to inspect all these parts without having to pull the knee off of the mill?
Edit: oh I see, the plunger can get pulled out through the little access cover on the side, by threading a 1/4 20 screw and yanking it out. Thanks man. I'm gonna check it out this weekend
@@pedrowhack-a-mole6786 Well, it turns out that both the plunger and cam were just fine. My gib needed to be tightened up. I tightened it up almost 2 turns on the screw checking the full travel range for stiffness, and the wear, if any is not perceptible in the knee. Even the felt wipers on it don't look to be that old. The ways on this machine are in terrific shape. All the factory flake marks are as if this thing was either rebuilt completely or it saw very little use. I've owned this machine for over 6 yrs now, but I never really went through it to adjust the gibs and things . I just put it to work in my hobby shop, but i'd get some chatter taking heavy cuts if I didn't lock the knee. I'm gonna tighten up the gibs on the x and y axis also to try and tighten it up a little. Sometimes a little tune up is all a machine needs get it good as new.
We are glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the video, I've been using Bridgeport's and other knee mills for around 26 years and never knew how they came apart. Do you grind or scrape the ways to refurbish them and is their an estimate on the cost of having it done if everything is broken down as in this video?
Hi Phill. If we received the table, saddle, knee, and the gibs we can do the ways for $3000. If you have any questions you can give me a call at 1-800-285-5271.
Any tips for securing the knee saddle and table to pallet for shipping?
We have people build small crates sometimes. We also have people just strap them down and put wrap over them. If they are sent in a crate we will return it in the same crate, but if they aren't we use shipping straps and stretch wrap to secure them to the pallet. The gibs and yoke are returned on a box on the same pallet.
great job on all the info and the how too. keep up the good work.
Hi there, I am blacksmith and bladesmith, and I am in need of a milling machine, but I have very limited space. Which small mill would you recommend? I'd be using it to machine surfaces of billets that will generally be 1"x2"x15". I was looking at an old hardinge bb2v, but the collets on those things are no longer made. Anything you could recommend would be most appreciated.
Good Afternoon,
There are some old Bridgeport mills that have 32” tables that do not take up a lot of space. If you have a J style head with the R-8 spindle the cost of collets would be very inexpensive. I am not sure where you are located but I would keep my eye open for one in your area. Give us a call at 800-285-5271 if you would like to discuss it further over the phone.
-Barry
will the extra wear on the lead screws increase the amount of backlash???
Yes, that and where in the lead screw nuts are is what causes excessive backlash in screws and nuts. -Barry
Great video ! Do you sell used mills as well ? I live in Indianapolis and have been looking for a good Bridgeport mill for my garage. Thanks for the information Berry.
We don't come across many decent used Bridgeports that we sell outright. Usually we take older used Bridgeports and refurbish them. If you want a quote on a refurbished unit email me at: support@hwmachinerepair.com and I can email one over to you.
@@HWMachRepair thank you so very much. I would much rather purchase one from you being you are more local, I prefer to support business in my state/community and of of course buying American made. So I will definitely be emailing you for a qoute and if its within my budget I'd love to drive over and meet your salesperson, and maybe take a close look. Thank you for your response 🙏
Good afternoon, can you help me?
Tell me which engine model is on the auto-feed axis X?
Great video. my old step head could use a tune up. If I send you the table, saddle and knee for scrapping what happens with the wear on the column ways? And what is approx. charge for you do the three parts including top of table on a 9 x 49 table?
You say you have a 49" table. If so, what brand is the mill. The standard Bridgeport Series I would have a 42" or 48". The cost to complete the X&Y axis way work if you send us the table, saddle, knee and all gibs will run $3,000.00 and that will include all way grinding, installed turkite on the top and bottom of the saddle to bring it back to original height, hand scraping the ways to flat and square with a pristine column we have here just for these jobs and hand scraping the gibs back to proper fit. If you column ways have bad wear it will still be there. When we have to do a column all that work is done by hand and involves complete tear down and having the column laying on its back.
it's an actual BRIDGEPORT. Must be a 48" table...… Thank You!
Do you plan on making a reassembly video ?
That would be super helpful!
I'll add that on my suggestions list. Thank you!
Excellent video, just what I needed. I have to remove the bed to get the machine though my narrow gate. Do you know how heavy the 42in bed and crossslide motorised unit is? Thank you. Bob
Sorry about the late reply, I don't get to the comment here as quickly as I like sometimes. The weight on a 42" table itself is about 210 lbs. I don't know what kind of motorized unit you have, but an old Bridgeport power feed is around 30 lbs.
Thanks you that helps. 95kg +13kg
Thanks for the great video, just what I needed
I missed the removal of the knee elevation screw/shaft. Although I know it's a matter of unscrewing it up and out of the nut on the knee elevation pedestal, but it would have been nice to see how you do it. Any chance of doing a supplement video? I have found your Bridgeport rebuild videos to be very helpful in rebuilding my Acer (BP clone) mill. Thanx for all your help!
That part is just unscrewing the three screws on the nut and lifting it out. There isn't anything else holding it in except for the screws. It should be the same on an Acer. Let me know if you need any other help and I can see if we can do a short video on that.
@@HWMachRepair Can it cause any damage with the column gibs removed and the knee sitting on the elevating screw? I read somewhere it should be braced before removing gibs
Excellent Video ! Thank you very much
(whisper): “And change the filter.”
Nice.
Great video, great job!-)
I didn't take the feednut locking screw out of the bracket just wound the x axis lead screw out and left the brass feed nuts in till I got the table off im afraid I'll be spending some bucks for both x & y lead screws they look shot but is a round ram built in 1954 I'll cut it some slack
Nice work. I’m wondering if you’re familiar w Alec Steele’s channel and his beautiful Bridgeport machine that arrived badly broken from the shipping co?
I am not familiar with Alec's channel but I will say that shipping companies are sometime my worst enemies! We shipped a complete rebuilt Bridgeport to one company where they cut the 6'x6' custom made pallet down to 4'x4' removing the main supports and were surprised when the machine tipped over in their truck.
H&W Machine Repair and Rebuilding I’m a custom guitar builder. I’ve experienced a few shipping horror stories of my own. You spend months working on project only to have it destroyed in seconds by some careless, non-thinking shipper is incredibly painful.
Great video. Very helpful. Thank you.
I love watching some one else take down a machine. Machine repair was one of my jobs for 30 years but I only went into a Bridgeport base far enough to replace the chip guards or fix lube lines. I just bought a Bridgeport with a 32" table and very little wear for personal use. I had one like it only older at work that also was very tight when we got it, and still is the lowest wear Bridgeport there. Anybody know if the older machines with 32" or 42" tables were better or was it just that the more modern machines, with their 48" and 52" tables, just put more wear on the dovetails and screws? I argue both are true.
We have rebuilt many of the older machines and well as many of the newer and the iron on the machines from the 50's and 60's is a little more substantial but the modern machine have much superior lubrication systems. We have seen all vintage of these machines completely trashed out. It really comes down to how well the machine was taken care of.
Amazing how you made a parts basket out of a minnow trap.
That is actually a parts basket that we purchase from McMaster/Carr.
Thank you, This is posssibly the most detailed video on youtube. I have a difficult bridgeport move coming up soon and was wondering if you had an accurate weight of the column and the knee? I am removing the whole head and cross feed, but am wondering if I need to remove the knee.
Sure, the column is 775 lbs and the knee is 220 lbs.
It'll be over 1000 lbs for just the base and knee.
Oops, didn't see this post
Yes, we do have weights for each component. The column weighs 775 lbs and the knee weighs 225 lbs. If you need the weights of each component send us an email and we will send it out to you.
Hahahaha, you make it looks EASY !! I am about to buy one with a real rusty table ...lets see if I can do a deal ... !!
What a great video. Very interesting. Will you be making a reassembly video?
I would like to but reassembly is done is steps so it will be a matter of us videoing each step and them piecing everything together
What type of screw is in front of the feed nut retaining screw? It is not listed on H&W
It's on this page, #14 (PN: 1150): ruclips.net/user/attribution_link?a=85-9DCi8hF45OF8y&u=/watch%3Fv%3D95yVkqInRxc%26lc%3DUgyE8J3VhfX72zAVjUZ4AaABAg%26feature%3Dem-comments
HFT. you know you saw it! Good vid guys
At time 36:00 Barry tells us on the knee lock there are TWO set screws and we need to remove them BOTH.....I should have paid closer attention to that small detail. After nearly giving myself a hernia twisting and jerking on the handle (and breaking it in the process), and hammering with a punch on the back side, and lots of four letter words, I finally gave up. Came back to watch again to make sure there wasn’t something I missed.....oops :-)
Glad you figured it out! If you ever get suck feel free to give us a call and we can help out.
My backlash adjustment screw (8:40) is bottomed out and l have .140" backlash. Does this typically mean that the lead screw is worn or can I just replace the bushing? Thank you
If your nut is bottomed out and you still have that much backlash then it would be normal to have the screw also worn out. Check the backlash in the middle then crank the table to the end and check the backlash. The difference will be the wear in your screw. -Barry
@@HWMachRepair Why didn't I not think of that? Thank you!
Great video. Are you aware the parts numbers don't match. I was looking for the nut size that holds the crank handles on the X axis.
1163 to 1167 are al coming up as reducers. :(
Hi Andy. Here are the two parts that you are needing. I just searched and they came up fine on my website: www.machinerypartsdepot.com/product/1167 and www.machinerypartsdepot.com/product/1163
You can also check on the Leadscrew Assembly diagram on the website: www.machinerypartsdepot.com/store/1478157/page/549798
Feel free to give us a call if you have any other questions. 1-800-285-5271 -Barry
great ,enjoyed. learned alot.
Thank you! I was tearing my hair our trying to figure out how to remove the knee crank bearings.
Now that the knee is off, at some point during the cleaning and "dialing in" of the various items... Is it a bad idea to drill and two for one and or two additional gib/jib lock handles, beings it is completely accessible... Yes, I realize this model has the cam-lock style already built in... Just wondering if it would be a think ahead type move to just do, for 50 years down the road when the fam lock is worn out... Let alone, the idea that the one up high, and one down low, would clamp more evenly... What do you think??? Anybody can add their two cents, won't hurt to hear some theorized opinions or factual info as to why or why not... Thank you, Dru
Good Afternoon Dru - I can’t see any reason that doing it would hurt. You would need to nail the location of the lock holes do you lock pins would fit correctly but other than that it should work out fine. We have never found a reason to add locks because if we run into an issue during the rebuild we replace either the lock handle or the lock itself.
You can give me a call if you have any other questions 1-800-285-5271 - Barry
@@HWMachRepair Roger that!!! I am enjoying the videos, and are quite helpful for when I get to each step. Thank you Barry.... Dru
great video, I learned a lot. Thank you.
I have an issue on my mill where my y-axis seemed to stop its travel back and forth. Suggestions on how to tackle this issue. Thank you!
Good Morning Joven,
Where is it stopping while traveling back and forth? How much travel do you actually have? It sounds like the key may have worked its way out of the yoke but there could be other issues causing the problem. Give us a call at 800-285-5271 when you get a chance so we can discuss the issue further over the phone.
- Barry
I just disassembled my Bridgeport and followed this video to a t. Everything went well till I removed the knee/column gib and it was very tight and the little groove broke off the top, the screw came out, but the gib stayed in and self wedged itself to the point I cant get it out. I tried tapping on the bottom, but it is wedged tight any suggestions on what I can do? Thanx
Good Afternoon Randall, You will need to give us a call at 800-285-5271 to discuss the next steps. It can sometimes get very ugly and difficult to get the gib out but we can discuss it over the phone. -Barry
Awesome. Thank you
Any recommendations on removing the linear scale if it's an old Mitutoyo AT-109 (installed as part of a Mitutoyo GML-3705W DRO) without messing up the alignment?
The removal of it isn’t the issue, but the remounting of it. I would recommend contacting Mitutoyo to see if they will get you a set of the alignment brackets for an AT109 to make it easier for the removal and reassembly. If you want to talk through it, you can give us a call at 1-800-285-5271, just ask for Jon.
@@HWMachRepair thanks for getting back to me. That was my concern as well. I'll be in touch.
Hi from Brasil
What causes the knee to hop while cranking it down
There are two things that could be causing that issue. You may not have enough oil getting to those column ways or your gib is to tight. Pour some oil directly onto the ways and move it up and down a few times. If the skipping disappears, you will have to troubleshoot why those ways aren't getting oil. If they still skip after the oil, loosen the gib slightly and see if it stops. You can always give us a call if you need further help 1-800-285-5271
Which impact are you using
The size or the brand? It's a Snap-On driver and that nut is a 1/2".
@@HWMachRepair thank you sir
This 1981 mill looks mint compared to the 1960s mills I recently sold, I had nine of them that we bought new, sold seven of them, just don't use m anymore.
The backlash adjustment screw (8:40) on mine is broken, and the backlash is horrific. Must remove table...
I have a small shop, and it's going to be real pain to get the BP to a place where I can slide the table off to one side, it's the long table like that one. I do have a hoist over the table, if I remove the gib will the table lift straight up?
I'll probably be ordering some parts.
So glad you made this video!
The table will not lift off with the gib out but you can slide the table all the way over to access the yoke without removing the table. It would be helpful if you could get a die cart under the one side but I have worked on-site in similar situations and slide the table over far enough but you have to leave the gib in to do it.
@@HWMachRepair Thank you. I think that's doable.
do you run the parts threw a de greaser ?
We have a wash bay with a pressurized hose that we use to clean the components before grinding. If something is a little extra nasty, we will spray it down with our purple soap first, which is actually industrial strength carpet cleaner. We have found that works the best for getting rid of hard caked on grease and grime. -Barry
Ok so I’ve watched this video multiple times a day for the last 2 weeks finally got to the part where I take the gib out of the knee and it’s stuck and I don’t know what to do.
You will need to call the shop and speak to either Barry or Zach. We will need to know where the knee is in the travel, is the tab broken off of the gib and other things. Call us at 800-285-5271.
hi, dear sir hru, I need some help from ur dude about Bridgeport vertical milling machine, thnx
What do you need help with?
how can i identify the age and model of my mill. no plates left on it that show date. she is old and warn....but was cheap.....so i live with a lot.
The Bridgeport's age is told by the serial numbers. If you can get me the serial numbers I can tell you the age.
@@HWMachRepair ok. on the head is jb15837. on the edge of the knee is 797.on the lubrication recomendation i.s 305300579u.
ordern no. 67066
I don't think she'll be a ballet dancer 9:38 good video
Good thing because shes a fantastic Head Repair technician.
I am quite surprised that someone would pay to restore this old mill. The worth doesn't seem to justify it. Happy for it though.
I have to disagree. First, we're talking refurbishment not restoration. A well maintained or refurbished Bridgeport will out-perform any of the import knee mills out there. They just aren't rigid enough to take the cuts or hold the tolerances a Bridgeport is capable of. If you are referring to the general utility of manual machines versus CNC machines, there are a million jobs that can be performed much faster manually then by setting up a CNC. tooling is still readily available, and lastly is the sense of satisfaction of making something on a mill by hand.
@@pedrowhack-a-mole6786 You completely missed it. Maybe I was not explicit enough. An early Bridgeport (in decent operating condition) is worth about 1,000.00 in my area (Michigan). A later model with variable speed about 1,500.00 and add 500.00 for a dro and one power-feed axis.There are much better older American mills available in the same price range than Bridgeports. I work with both manual mills and lathes and cnc mills and lathes. I do not think this mill is worth the investment. Just my opinion.
@@istvanmeissler2238 I do respect your opinion. I know I'm being a cheer leader for Bridgeport, but 32 years working with and repairing a variety of mills of various vintages gives me some insight and justification for being so. And that after more then 80 years they are still being made, and copied, and R8 tooling is plentiful and inexpensive, also speaks to their worth. I agree that some older mills are superior in some respects, but that the versatility of the Bridgeport mill overshadows that. Just out of curiosity, what do you favor in place of a Bridgeport mill?
We do 50 - 60 complete Bridgeport Series I rebuilds a year in addition to several lathe, grinders and other brand mills we rebuild. The big advantage to the older Bridgeport is that parts will be available for years to come. We stock parts for Bridgeports that were built back in the 50's.
ruclips.net/video/ezMSjhsUmvw/видео.html
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