Very well done. I admire that You actually did the build. Too often, people just theorize, and never make the effort to actually do something about their ideas physically. Again, well done, and thanks for sharing.
Good job. The only thing I would have changed is run the pipe up higher then go out the wall. There’s still a lot of heat that’s rising and you’d want to utilize it instead of it going straight out of the chimney
I run a duct from the ceiling down to the floor and have a duct fan in it. This mixes hot air from the roof with cold air at floor level - works really well. Also the FIre Brick lining for the firebox part is a good idea and the baffle I used was 1/3 in the middle with a sliding plate on top so you can have the chimney open for the startup and then close it off progressively - but my one is longer and lower. Nice stove. Thanks for sharing.
Well done! A few little changes though, as mentioned in a couple of the other posts, add an outside fresh air supply so you won’t be pulling cold air into the shop to feed the fire and have your chimney exit the shop higher, closer to the ceiling, you will get more convection heat off the chimney inside the shop.
Ilja, Nice build!! Advise : insulate the fire box with diy refractory materials. You can make that yourself to the right dimensions of your oven by mixing perlite with water glass ( sodium silicate) as a binder or, even better, with perlite with potassium silicate as a binder. You can find diy recipes in the internet. You need high combustion temperatures to get a thermo-efficient and clean smokeless fire. Your steel firebox acts like a heat sink and reduces the combustion temperature and that is not what you want. Besides it greatly increases the life time of your stove since the insulating refractory blocks protect the metal of the stove. If questions, just ask me. A 2nd remark is that you installed your chimney in the narrow passage... That passage is meant to give access for fire fighters in case of a calamity. You blocked it with your chimney... that's not a good idea my friend.
If anyone is wondering about something that burns wood with an actual turbo, you could try looking up Bobby McBoost's channel. This shop stove is very tame in comparison.
You seem like a great fabricator. We should team up our RUclips channels and get you to design some Modular Interior Systems components. I'd love a custom workbench/tool board like your NASA table that bolts onto strut channel installed inside shipping containers.
I always do! Thats a great idea! I have a little loft and I can really feel that its hotter there close by the ceiling. Thank you, I might do that too!
@@iljanster I didn't mention that on very cold days the floor gets wet because I have what's called a 'floating' slab shop floor. Depending on your floor build and temp adjust the speed of the ceiling fan, slower on colder days. Thanks for responding and best wishes on future builds.
What you call the deflector officially is called 'baffler plate' i think. Also, better to have your chimney rise inside your shop and have it exit higher up, so you can also utilize extra warmth from the chimney
Yea .. metal got really expensive! I think I’ve paid about 200eur for that sheet. And something like 400~500 eur for the whole build , including the chimney.
Thanks for the video - I have always wanted to try this. However - if you are taking heat out of the flue surely you need the exhaust gases to be as clean and completely burnt as possible, so as to avoid soot and tar build-up. This argues for the main stove to be something like a rocket stove with a very very hot (un-cooled !) initial section to the chimney, prior to the heat extraction. If you achieve a more complete burn you would also see a reduction in wood requirements for a given heat output.
To build the close to perfect wood stove, two things are required. Complete combustion and good heat transfer to the room. Good heat transfer is the easiest of the two. Complete combustion, is all the energy in the wood needs to be released by the combustion. This requires high temperatures. Stove manufacturers achieve this by using fire bricks in the combustion chamber. So, an insulated fire box increases combustion temperatures to burn all the gases in the wood. Combustible gases going up the stack is not good. I used a metal box type furnace for years. It does give good heat transfer but it does not allow for complete combustion. Fire box temperatures are low. Now with new insulated box furnace (fire brick). I burn less wood and release less toxins into the environment. It's a win win condition.
Gasification -> Add a Clean Air Source intake towards the Top End above the burn chamber Rocket Stove Gasification on YT here and you will spend a day looking up improvements.
Welds looked and sounded a bit cold, But Excellent job! Been looking around for different shop heat concepts. The convection fins where something I was going to include in my future design. subbed :).
Thank you man! I was fairly new to welding back then, I can see rn that even penetration was not the best , however the stove is holding up with no probs .
hey its the best I have seen, loved it just our metal here in S.africa is fflipping expensive will have to save up for the project, but ja loved your video
Bro, where are you located? I just finished building a brick wood stove for my shop. Went with brick/metal for some “mass” added an area around the fire box to add forced air as well a secondary burn set up. The reason I asked “where your located?” Is because I swear we’re the same person.
Hey man! Ah that’s sweet. The stove is like one of my fav things in the shop! I’m in Riga, Latvia I guess you probably never heard of this place 😅 add me on IG @pavs_workshop lets talk
Bella, mi piace. Per la canna fumaria così lunga ti suggerisco di inserire una valvola di bilanciamento del tiraggio... la puoi anche costruire te sei in gamba. .ciao
Hey man! I’m beyond happy with it, I just love coming to the shop and starting it. Can’t think of anything I would change really. Would be good to have a chimney straight up through the roof but with the construction of my ceiling its impossible
GREAT BUILD BUT, I HAVE TWO QUESTIONS: * Since your shop is concrete floor and cement blocks, is it still cold? * And, do you want to save a lot of money on buying your wood? IF YES TO BOTH QUESTIONS, THEN YOU NEED TO CONSTRUCT TWO MORE THINGS TO GET MORE HEAT & REDUCE YOUR COSTS: 1. Install a metal pipe from the stove to the outside for fresh air to be pumped into the stove. 2. Install a metal pipe from the stove to the outside for fresh air to be used through pipes welded on the outside of your stove so you can use a blower to pump hot air into your shop (the convective system is not enough if your shop is still cold). You already have a "hole" in the wall for your chimney so it should be very easy to do by enlarging the hole just a little more for the pipes. THE ABOVE SYSTEM IS CALLED A "POSITIVE AIR SYSTEM" for wood stoves and the results are incredible! * Think about it this way: your building (aka "shop") is a "balloon" and the air being blown into the balloon is the hot air that's coming from your blower that pushes hot air through the pipes that you're going to weld on the sides of your stove. * The hot air being blown into your shop PUSHES ALL COLD AIR OUT... meaning that the cold air from the outside is being pushed away because you're using the two pipes for the fresh air from the outside: one pipe for the air that goes inside the stove and one pipe for the air that is blown through the pipes you weld onto the side of your stove. SO, FOR JUST A LITTLE EXTRA COST (two metal pipes AND two inexpensive blowers) AND A LITTLE EXTRA TIME, YOU GET ALL OF THESE BENEFITS: 1. The poisonous carbon monoxide in the stove goes up your chimney and not into your shop, so it's safer (you're going to keep the air vent on the stove closed at all times now). 2. You save money on wood because you can now control how much air goes into your stove via the blower (with variable controls on it)... you turn the blower on high when you start your fire, then gradually turn it down when you have hot coals. 3. You INCREASE THE AMOUNT OF HOT AIR in your shop because the blowers are blowing air through the pipes that you welded on the side of your stove... and the air heats up your shop better because IT'S NOT GOING BACK INTO YOUR STOVE AND UP THE CHIMNEY! There are plenty of videos on RUclips about stoves with blowers and you can watch them and get ideas. Here is a link to a wood stove manufacturer in the UK and their "blower" is in the chimney and their pipes are "inside" the stove so you can't see them... and they measure the outputs: ruclips.net/video/zlEMADUz0Ak/видео.html Hope That Helps! Amen Retired, Veteran
I've wanted to buy a welder for a long time but there are so many types I don't know what to get. I have only done stick welding with the 7018 rods. I'd like to be able to weld thin metal 1/16" thick up to 1/2" steel plate. Any suggestions? Thanks for the video.
Hey man, Thanks! Honestly I just bought one of the cheapest mig welders from amazon and I’m more then happy. 1/16 could be a bit tricky but once you get a hang of it you’ll be good. So just go for the mig, start with a cheap one and you will feel when you need to upgrade
Miller leads the league in MIG welders, Lincoln has owned the "stick" for decades. I have welded with 300 amp mig machines, running 300 inches of wire per minute, down to the little Miller 135 that I have out in the shop that I run .023 wire in. Miller is my recommendation.
Nope its still in perfect shape, however the side panels which are from 2mm steel, they do warp when the stove gets very hot. But its not a very big deal
Great video ! ... A couple of questions ...So when you open the ash drawer does the ash not fall down the back or is it open ended like a shovel ? Also the secondary air should be under your chimney shelf this will burn fuel gases before they gi up chimney .keep up the good bids.. ;)
4:08 Cast iron will burn through. It may take a while if your stove only gets occasional use in your workshop, but with continuous use you'll be replacing this soon. Ask me how I know...
Cool. i've been looking into this baffle thing a bit and most I've seen are pointed up or flat so what is the reasoning of pointing down and do you have a link to a source? Been researching masonary stoves and rocket mass heaters too.
It’s actually angled down towards the front of the stove on a tiny angle. I know it sound weird but thats what all the Russian stove making companies are doing now, and there is a logic behind it I just can’t remember right now what it was
@@iljanster yes, if you think of the area as a tube, the end the smoke goes into should be wider so the pressure increases toward the back in order t keep the smoke moving in the right direction. Positive pressure I think.
Hey man! Im in Riga, Latvia. But I went to the local craigslist type of website and found a workshop that work with fireproof glass. I paid about 10-15 euros for this piece
It that really asbestos insulation between the glass and the steel? That stuff will kill you. Also, a bit of constructive criticism, The volume of your voice audio is MUCH lower than the volume of the music. I found myself constantly changing the volume level throughout the video. I love the design of the stove but don't understand where the "Turbo Boosted" part comes from. Nice job on the chimney also.
Not too sure if its really asbestos, its a special rope for sealing stoves, can be purchased in any stove shop. The boost comes from the air injectors to ignite the secondary gases before they enter the chimney
Asbestos is banned in the US, since its directly linked to certain types of lung cancer, neat video though. Id seriously consider removing that Gasket if you plan to use that in an enclosed area
isolate the fire (chamotte bricks) fire 1000 degrees celcius ? and the exhaust is 200 degrees you got 80% efficiency my first wood stove had 97%+ efficiency .. exhaust was 40/50 degrees celcius fire wanted to escape out of every hole. door open and the fire came in the room.. not so good idea. thats why companies isolate the fire.. how hotter it gets the better efficiency is possible
Don't put "turbo boosted" in the tittle if you're not actually turbo boosting it ! That being said, nice job on the stove, a more apropriate title would be " DIY naturally aspirated woodstove"
Great.. Genius! Very useful! But, please remove the NASA (liers) from the wall...! Your videos are prirty good! But to show those Hollywood actors logo... Please!! you are a smart boy. Best Regards from Bs As. ARG.
great video production . my woodstove is far superior to your basic design .. Unfortunately I am not a tachie on computers so my video glow stove update is fairly pathetic .
Very well done. I admire that You actually did the build. Too often, people just theorize, and never make the effort to actually do something about their ideas physically. Again, well done, and thanks for sharing.
Good job. The only thing I would have changed is run the pipe up higher then go out the wall. There’s still a lot of heat that’s rising and you’d want to utilize it instead of it going straight out of the chimney
the convection on the side is smart thinking.
Try adding an air wash controlled to keep you glass clean, I love the build!
I miss having a flat top wood stove. perfect for cooking soups, stews, and chili or keeping your coffee hot.
I run a duct from the ceiling down to the floor and have a duct fan in it. This mixes hot air from the roof with cold air at floor level - works really well.
Also the FIre Brick lining for the firebox part is a good idea and the baffle I used was 1/3 in the middle with a sliding plate on top so you can have the chimney open for the startup and then close it off progressively - but my one is longer and lower.
Nice stove. Thanks for sharing.
Well done! A few little changes though, as mentioned in a couple of the other posts, add an outside fresh air supply so you won’t be pulling cold air into the shop to feed the fire and have your chimney exit the shop higher, closer to the ceiling, you will get more convection heat off the chimney inside the shop.
the first point was exactly what I would like to suggest.. the second point is an added knowledge for me too
mmmmmm
Ilja,
Nice build!! Advise : insulate the fire box with diy refractory materials.
You can make that yourself to the right dimensions of your oven by mixing perlite with water glass ( sodium silicate) as a binder or, even better, with perlite with potassium silicate as a binder. You can find diy recipes in the internet.
You need high combustion temperatures to get a thermo-efficient and clean smokeless fire. Your steel firebox acts like a heat sink and reduces the combustion temperature and that is not what you want. Besides it greatly increases the life time of your stove since the insulating refractory blocks protect the metal of the stove.
If questions, just ask me.
A 2nd remark is that you installed your chimney in the narrow passage... That passage is meant to give access for fire fighters in case of a calamity. You blocked it with your chimney... that's not a good idea my friend.
Super cool dude, these videos give me a old school RUclips vibe which I love. Keep up the good work much love from UK!
Thank you brother🙏🏼
I like that convection vent idea. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
A fantastic job. It has given me a lot to work with. Very nice video production as well. Professional all round!
Nice work!
Wood burning stoves are popular here in Michigan where 53% of our state is forested.
If anyone is wondering about something that burns wood with an actual turbo, you could try looking up Bobby McBoost's channel. This shop stove is very tame in comparison.
ah yes
a wood burning powered turbo jet engine
Excelente, felicitaciones, muchas gracias por compartir sus conocimientos y experiencias, saludos desde la Novena Región de Chile.
DIY for a highly skilled person
Best diy I've seen... great work! Have you posted the dimensions or plans foe this design?
That convection is really cool snd smart. Great design. 👍
You seem like a great fabricator. We should team up our RUclips channels and get you to design some Modular Interior Systems components. I'd love a custom workbench/tool board like your NASA table that bolts onto strut channel installed inside shipping containers.
The gloves! 😆😆 That is a sick stove 👍👍
I hope you still read comments. I added a ceiling fan to my shop and it made a big difference in overall temperature. Nice build! 👍
I always do! Thats a great idea! I have a little loft and I can really feel that its hotter there close by the ceiling. Thank you, I might do that too!
@@iljanster I didn't mention that on very cold days the floor gets wet because I have what's called a 'floating' slab shop floor. Depending on your floor build and temp adjust the speed of the ceiling fan, slower on colder days. Thanks for responding and best wishes on future builds.
What you call the deflector officially is called 'baffler plate' i think.
Also, better to have your chimney rise inside your shop and have it exit higher up, so you can also utilize extra warmth from the chimney
Very well built and nicely designed. should be nice and efficient.
This is an awesome project, but the way it's titled I thought that it was actually turbocharged. Despite that, it was interesting to watch. Good job 👍
I can imagine how expensive it is. I picked up a 2x4x20' 1/4 wall. That was $300. That was a year ago now, when you uploaded this
Yea .. metal got really expensive! I think I’ve paid about 200eur for that sheet. And something like 400~500 eur for the whole build , including the chimney.
I would used some high heat paint as well on the exposed pipe in the building and outside for rust protection
Thanks for the video - I have always wanted to try this. However - if you are taking heat out of the flue surely you need the exhaust gases to be as clean and completely burnt as possible, so as to avoid soot and tar build-up. This argues for the main stove to be something like a rocket stove with a very very hot (un-cooled !) initial section to the chimney, prior to the heat extraction. If you achieve a more complete burn you would also see a reduction in wood requirements for a given heat output.
To build the close to perfect wood stove, two things are required. Complete combustion and good heat transfer to the room. Good heat transfer is the easiest of the two. Complete combustion, is all the energy in the wood needs to be released by the combustion. This requires high temperatures. Stove manufacturers achieve this by using fire bricks in the combustion chamber. So, an insulated fire box increases combustion temperatures to burn all the gases in the wood. Combustible gases going up the stack is not good. I used a metal box type furnace for years. It does give good heat transfer but it does not allow for complete combustion. Fire box temperatures are low. Now with new insulated box furnace (fire brick). I burn less wood and release less toxins into the environment. It's a win win condition.
Gasification -> Add a Clean Air Source intake towards the Top End above the burn chamber
Rocket Stove Gasification on YT here and you will spend a day looking up improvements.
Welds looked and sounded a bit cold, But Excellent job! Been looking around for different shop heat concepts. The convection fins where something I was going to include in my future design.
subbed :).
Thank you man! I was fairly new to welding back then, I can see rn that even penetration was not the best , however the stove is holding up with no probs .
Loved every minute of the vid! keep it up man!
Nice job! I'm thinking of doing something similar. Congratulations on your job, very nice.
Wow, Nice built! 👌 You can easy sell this for a good price
Cool man! great job on the stove.
Thanks bud!
hey its the best I have seen, loved it just our metal here in S.africa is fflipping expensive will have to save up for the project, but ja loved your video
YA DID A GREAT JOB!
Bro, where are you located? I just finished building a brick wood stove for my shop. Went with brick/metal for some “mass” added an area around the fire box to add forced air as well a secondary burn set up. The reason I asked “where your located?” Is because I swear we’re the same person.
Hey man! Ah that’s sweet. The stove is like one of my fav things in the shop! I’m in Riga, Latvia I guess you probably never heard of this place 😅 add me on IG @pavs_workshop lets talk
Do you have a detailed drawing of the stove? Some of us would be willing to pay you a modest fee to use it. Thank
Great job! I'm getting some ideas on a build for a sauna stove. Thanks for the video keep up the awesome work!
Thank you 🙏🏼 Good luck with your project
Great job!
Nice job!
nice little stove
Bella, mi piace. Per la canna fumaria così lunga ti suggerisco di inserire una valvola di bilanciamento del tiraggio... la puoi anche costruire te sei in gamba. .ciao
That air boiler is very good, could you share measurements or plans?
Hows the stove doing after 10 months of usage? Are you happy with it? Are there any things you wished you have done differently?. Great video!!
Hey man! I’m beyond happy with it, I just love coming to the shop and starting it. Can’t think of anything I would change really. Would be good to have a chimney straight up through the roof but with the construction of my ceiling its impossible
GREAT BUILD BUT, I HAVE TWO QUESTIONS:
* Since your shop is concrete floor and cement blocks, is it still cold?
* And, do you want to save a lot of money on buying your wood?
IF YES TO BOTH QUESTIONS, THEN YOU NEED TO CONSTRUCT TWO MORE THINGS TO GET MORE HEAT & REDUCE YOUR COSTS:
1. Install a metal pipe from the stove to the outside for fresh air to be pumped into the stove.
2. Install a metal pipe from the stove to the outside for fresh air to be used through pipes welded on the outside of your stove so you can use a blower to pump hot air into your shop (the convective system is not enough if your shop is still cold).
You already have a "hole" in the wall for your chimney so it should be very easy to do by enlarging the hole just a little more for the pipes.
THE ABOVE SYSTEM IS CALLED A "POSITIVE AIR SYSTEM" for wood stoves and the results are incredible!
* Think about it this way: your building (aka "shop") is a "balloon" and the air being blown into the balloon is the hot air that's coming from your blower that pushes hot air through the pipes that you're going to weld on the sides of your stove.
* The hot air being blown into your shop PUSHES ALL COLD AIR OUT... meaning that the cold air from the outside is being pushed away because you're using the two pipes for the fresh air from the outside: one pipe for the air that goes inside the stove and one pipe for the air that is blown through the pipes you weld onto the side of your stove.
SO, FOR JUST A LITTLE EXTRA COST (two metal pipes AND two inexpensive blowers) AND A LITTLE EXTRA TIME, YOU GET ALL OF THESE BENEFITS:
1. The poisonous carbon monoxide in the stove goes up your chimney and not into your shop, so it's safer (you're going to keep the air vent on the stove closed at all times now).
2. You save money on wood because you can now control how much air goes into your stove via the blower (with variable controls on it)... you turn the blower on high when you start your fire, then gradually turn it down when you have hot coals.
3. You INCREASE THE AMOUNT OF HOT AIR in your shop because the blowers are blowing air through the pipes that you welded on the side of your stove... and the air heats up your shop better because IT'S NOT GOING BACK INTO YOUR STOVE AND UP THE CHIMNEY!
There are plenty of videos on RUclips about stoves with blowers and you can watch them and get ideas.
Here is a link to a wood stove manufacturer in the UK and their "blower" is in the chimney and their pipes are "inside" the stove so you can't see them... and they measure the outputs:
ruclips.net/video/zlEMADUz0Ak/видео.html
Hope That Helps!
Amen
Retired, Veteran
So cool. Umm where are your views and subscribers? This channel should be huge
Hey man! Thanks a lot! Ehh it is what it is
@@iljanster unfortunately I cant parttake as a patron but you've got a new sub :) take care!
How much time did you just sit in front of it and appreciate your work? ❤
A LOT 💖
wow nice job i really like this stove you should make some plans and sell them for like 10 bucks or something
Nice work
Well done
I've wanted to buy a welder for a long time but there are so many types I don't know what to get. I have only done stick welding with the 7018 rods. I'd like to be able to weld thin metal 1/16" thick up to 1/2" steel plate. Any suggestions? Thanks for the video.
Hey man, Thanks! Honestly I just bought one of the cheapest mig welders from amazon and I’m more then happy. 1/16 could be a bit tricky but once you get a hang of it you’ll be good. So just go for the mig, start with a cheap one and you will feel when you need to upgrade
Miller leads the league in MIG welders, Lincoln has owned the "stick" for decades. I have welded with 300 amp mig machines, running 300 inches of wire per minute, down to the little Miller 135 that I have out in the shop that I run
.023 wire in. Miller is my recommendation.
Buy a Miller xmt 304 or 350 thank me later.
extra points for authentic soviet military pot :)
😅😅 Thanks bro!
good job
Have you had any issues with the big flat cook top warping over time?
Nope its still in perfect shape, however the side panels which are from 2mm steel, they do warp when the stove gets very hot. But its not a very big deal
Nice stove and video! Cheers
Thanks man!
Engineering genius!
Thank you brother! 🙏🏼
Great video ! ... A couple of questions ...So when you open the ash drawer does the ash not fall down the back or is it open ended like a shovel ? Also the secondary air should be under your chimney shelf this will burn fuel gases before they gi up chimney .keep up the good bids.. ;)
Hey man, thank you! The ash drawer is pretty much like a shovel yea, I didn’t have any probs with ash falling off it.
Damn nice!
4:08 Cast iron will burn through. It may take a while if your stove only gets occasional use in your workshop, but with continuous use you'll be replacing this soon. Ask me how I know...
Yea I’m sure it can burn through, but its easy to replace and for my “once a week use” its fine
Cool. i've been looking into this baffle thing a bit and most I've seen are pointed up or flat so what is the reasoning of pointing down and do you have a link to a source? Been researching masonary stoves and rocket mass heaters too.
Are you going to modified it to a use oil burner so it can be a hybrid
Hmm I think I’m fine with wood for now
Awesome
Professional
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Very Nicccccceee From USA,,,,, Michigan.....
When will the turbo be installed?
awesome
Very well done. Крутяк!
No water heat exchanger
, but really good design. You could sell those if you wanna change jobs
BRAVO!!!
Graet job, can i buy it ?
Which glass have you used for this
If all the steel that you used was laid out in 1 sheet. What would the dimensions of the sheet be?
I’ve bought 1.5m x 3m sheet, and I belive I got a bit less then a half of it left
I want one
Wait, the deflector is angled down from the chimney outlet, or down towards the chimney outlet?
It’s actually angled down towards the front of the stove on a tiny angle. I know it sound weird but thats what all the Russian stove making companies are doing now, and there is a logic behind it I just can’t remember right now what it was
@@iljanster yes, if you think of the area as a tube, the end the smoke goes into should be wider so the pressure increases toward the back in order t keep the smoke moving in the right direction. Positive pressure I think.
In Brisbane, Australia. Trying to find glass for fireplace. Any suggestions?
Hey man! Im in Riga, Latvia. But I went to the local craigslist type of website and found a workshop that work with fireproof glass. I paid about 10-15 euros for this piece
toaster ovens and old kitchen stoves ?
For many reasons and to be better I would add way more than 2 secondary burn holes and I would feed the fire with fresh air from outside the building.
Have a duct connect to the side air heaters, so the new air introduced is heated, and the fire itself is scavenging the cold air off the floor.
How do I go by getting the plans
Could you burn coal in this stove?
The stove should be 18” above the floor due to potential gasoline fumes at ground level.
It that really asbestos insulation between the glass and the steel? That stuff will kill you. Also, a bit of constructive criticism, The volume of your voice audio is MUCH lower than the volume of the music. I found myself constantly changing the volume level throughout the video.
I love the design of the stove but don't understand where the "Turbo Boosted" part comes from. Nice job on the chimney also.
Not too sure if its really asbestos, its a special rope for sealing stoves, can be purchased in any stove shop. The boost comes from the air injectors to ignite the secondary gases before they enter the chimney
Its actually ceramic, I just looked it up. Sorry, my bad
@@iljanster I must have missed that part. I love the convection ports on each side. Great idea. I would love that stove in my shop.
I have a 2000 watt petrol generator .can anyone tell me if I could power a mig welder with this
What is the size?
Don't forget a carbon monoxide and smoke detector!
What are the dimensions of the stove plese
Asbestos is banned in the US, since its directly linked to certain types of lung cancer, neat video though. Id seriously consider removing that Gasket if you plan to use that in an enclosed area
Its actually ceramic , not asbestos, I messed it up, I wrote it in the comments before
is it just me or are these videos really good how does he only have 3k subs everyone with a hart sub to much work for 3 k subs
I'll subscribe if you get rid of that NASA sign. But I'll go e a thumbs up
Asbestos gasket?
Ceramic* sorry
Молодец
I want this Wood Stove brother Sam 2 Sam please
isolate the fire (chamotte bricks) fire 1000 degrees celcius ? and the exhaust is 200 degrees you got 80% efficiency
my first wood stove had 97%+ efficiency .. exhaust was 40/50 degrees celcius fire wanted to escape out of every hole. door open and the fire came in the room.. not so good idea.
thats why companies isolate the fire.. how hotter it gets the better efficiency is possible
🎁🎅🏻👍🎄🔥
Don't put "turbo boosted" in the tittle if you're not actually turbo boosting it !
That being said, nice job on the stove, a more apropriate title would be " DIY naturally aspirated woodstove"
Thanks man! Yea I’m actually going to rename it like that!
Great.. Genius! Very useful! But, please remove the NASA (liers) from the wall...! Your videos are prirty good! But to show those Hollywood actors logo... Please!! you are a smart boy. Best Regards from Bs As. ARG.
you know lot things for your age,i think you have old adviser
I have internet 🤓
@@iljanster
it's nice of you, I was a little rude, a remark the chimney must be vertical at least 1m at the exit of the burnt gases to accelerate the evacuation
Thumb down. Title.
Really crappy, monotonous music!!!!!
great video production . my woodstove is far superior to your basic design .. Unfortunately I am not a tachie on computers so my video glow stove update is fairly pathetic .