When I was a carpenter we always use to set our windows to work brick measurements. Easy for us when laying walls out to move a window side to side to work looks way neater in the end and easier for everyone.
Nice video again looking forward to seeing more this week. Have a good week from Cornwall in the UK 👍.ps architects should design buildings to brick sizes.
Here in the southwest UK we're constantly building on 450mm to 650 dcp trays and radon barriers its so annoying mate I'm thinking bout coming over for work
As far as I knew the slab membrane is always supposed to be built into the first bed to complete the waterproofing of the slab, even though it’s so irregular and usually ripped in many places. Though because it’s not acting as a damp course it can be cut so it only goes into the bed an inch or two. There’s no damp proof added to the concrete so in theory rising damp could bugger up the carpet, in theory. As for the shitty window set out, they need to employ designers that know how to use a calculator.
Your 100 % correct hendo better to close the gaps with some sort of trim piece . Answer me this , I have seen in some of the oz bricklaying videos, guys bricking up against stud walls that have no sheeting on them what’s the story there , is it just around the garage and alfresco areas that they do it that way . Strictly speaking the plastic d.p.m should be brought up and and onto the brick ledge to have the entire concrete slab wrapped in plastic. But of course by the time bricklayers get to it that plastic is usually ripped to death .
That's a hard one for you boys it should be all set out for brickwork and the windows will look a lot better no slips and no shit cuts Good luck trying to change that thay are not easily beswade to a different way 👍👍👍👍👍
hint when your linning up the profile to father put a 1mm spacer between the profile and fasher when you have a return and window that's what is recommended or show the tippy to put the tape at 150mm on the corner and mark the window if its a 2 brick return 630mm plus your 20mm wind break on window and it will be perfect every time just remember to start the measurement at 150mm on the corner gauge guys mark gauge rod from the top of the front of the window down and water level around the house and all your lintels will work flush top side of window all around the house
I being critical but if we didn’t gauge to window heights and put a cut under a window the work would have to come down in the UK. 10:10 On top of that it’s messy and the joints aren’t top and tailed. Not trying to be a dick just wouldn’t say they did a really good job.
In England if its on a domestic build I will shuffle the opening about a little if I have to and the window sizes because there normally made to measure....if im on site it depends who im working for!! At the moment we have no wiggle room its got to be as is the drawing I've header 3 quarters up most of the reveals cause the architect has not thought about anything working bricks its a pain in the arse.
Like you said mate make it work brick the joiner can put a trim round it to cover the gap, painted, siliconed looks 100% better than having shit cuts in it 👍
That's a tough one hendo before I done anything I would ask the foreman and let him make the call...would be bad if u did it and were pulled on it from my own experience if your not sure go and talk to the foreman
@@hendosbricklaying2003 I think a nice clean bit of brickwork with a 10 mil joint looks better but if that's the way the company want it what can u do if possible make the cavity smaller or bigger to give u 10 or 20 mil
isildur 1 ah yes for the returning wall?? So instead of a 40 mil cavity you can make a 30m to get a smaller joint makes sense unless you have an external gutter and fascia you have to catch at the top
The detail at windows are awful a split then a brick on edge to form a sill. Do not use fire stops at the revels and corners exc in Australia? On the window front plastic windows could plate them up the sides a suppose. Scotland wouldn’t get away with leaving a gap around the window. Hendo that hair is getting a bit style about it 😆😆👍🏻👍🏻 Keep up the good work mate.
@@hendosbricklaying2003 Around Craigieburn, mickleham area, they have got to be the worst and you can't even use a bolster, the bricks just shatter. Cheers mate, hope you got plenty of work.
Those shifty cuts have ruined so many of my walls, some supervisors get it, and prefer the infills and some just don't get it. The moment you start shifting bond around to catch a window, is the moment the wall looks like a dog breakfast. Bloody hell they end up looking like zippers, and then it's almost impossible to cut so many bricks, and to have it look perfect without some deviations. Infill 100% way to go.
Richard Dixon only way to make panels continuing to the fascia work full brick lengths. Do it all the time here Otherwise the house would be riddled with them
As the Stones said " You can't always get what you want " Sometimes it doesn't work bricks , thought that gap was to big as C Jackson pointed out you don't put anything smaller than a half bat in so it will still look decent , though it's a pain in the arse . That said would seek clarification and find out what's acceptable , if the gaps acceptable , fair enough . I noticed on a previous vid you had a split course to reach cill brick height., it looked like face work . There wasn't enough courses to bump or grind to lose it so it's not a dig but it looked awful and wouldn't fly in the Uk . Is it acceptable in OZ ? Why not 3 quarter on edgecill bricks ? Both these issues speak to a poor architect at least in regard to brickwork .
There are a lot of splits under window sills here. I don’t see how you can make it work to the sill course whilst maintaining a gauge that reaches to top of window heights for lintels. It almost rarely works on jobs here without splits... Appreciate it Stephen
@@hendosbricklaying2003 Totally agree with what you had to work with , splits were unavoidable . Design practices are different in the Uk , splits are never incorporated in face work for ascetic reasons .
Its not rocket science, make the building dimensions work brick sizes and the frames sizes then there is no need for silly cuts that make the finished product look less attractive
These lads and all Aussie brickies are definitely doing best they can with how they are designed I just can’t get my head around why we are discussing a building that should be designed multiple of brick/ blocks! What the hell is up with these pen pushers it’s ridiculously simple and has been done millions of times before and making brickies work more than is needed they should be laying as much as poss not doing unnecessary daft crap looking cuts just because a bloke in a shirt n tie can’t be arsed to use his calculator and put a window aperture up or down a bit huh! Just saying 👍🏻
Architects and draughtsmen should be fully aware of brick sizes and working dimension', it would not be a problem for UPVC/timber companies manufacturing windows and doors for projects to, increase or decrease sizes to suit brick panels, these mass produced sizes are stupid, especially when they are 25mm out of sync with the brickwork.
Bad architectural work. Ask the gaffer let him take any comebacks. Get some end caps for your profiles. Why was your mate jointing the top of the brick. And finally what is an AJ. Hopefully not short for expansion joint.
Oncewasdonka Sure is bad Drawings. When was he jointing top of brick what part of video I didn’t catch that I’ll have another look.. AJ= Articulation Joint
@@hendosbricklaying2003 13.11 mate He must of been trying to look busy. Only asked because not sure if there was a reason. Articulation Joint bloody hell what next. We've had expansion joint and movement joint obviously they weren't technical enough. Anyway you seem to have a cracking little setup going and a hard worker so good on you. Cheers
@@CarbideEndMill Thought there must of been a good reason. My brothers in Perth. Says it's a bit flat atm. But he always earned big bucks in the UK. Very good trowel but no spring chicken.
Hendos Bricklaying yeah they sound frustrating to work for. Must be to make sure the flashing is there. You know some brickies have it 30mm back without giving a fuck..
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When I was a carpenter we always use to set our windows to work brick measurements. Easy for us when laying walls out to move a window side to side to work looks way neater in the end and easier for everyone.
My boss does the same thing with the gaps up the window. Love the vids
Nice video again looking forward to seeing more this week. Have a good week from Cornwall in the UK 👍.ps architects should design buildings to brick sizes.
Thanks a lot Hendos, great video . Keep up . Loved it ...
akoko barge chinar thanks boss
Hendos Bricklaying you are my boss hendos, I am learning from your videos . I appreciate that . Thanks a lot .
Membrane in Uk sites is always built in from the concrete floor lapped into blockwork to stop moisture from below
Here in the southwest UK we're constantly building on 450mm to 650 dcp trays and radon barriers its so annoying mate I'm thinking bout coming over for work
Great set up!! 👌👍👍
Profiles are quite abit different ours over in the UK!
Great video fellows 👍
As far as I knew the slab membrane is always supposed to be built into the first bed to complete the waterproofing of the slab, even though it’s so irregular and usually ripped in many places. Though because it’s not acting as a damp course it can be cut so it only goes into the bed an inch or two. There’s no damp proof added to the concrete so in theory rising damp could bugger up the carpet, in theory. As for the shitty window set out, they need to employ designers that know how to use a calculator.
LAZY DOG appreciate it maye
Yea we put cuts in Melbourne north
Your 100 % correct hendo better to close the gaps with some sort of trim piece . Answer me this , I have seen in some of the oz bricklaying videos, guys bricking up against stud walls that have no sheeting on them what’s the story there , is it just around the garage and alfresco areas that they do it that way . Strictly speaking the plastic d.p.m should be brought up and and onto the brick ledge to have the entire concrete slab wrapped in plastic. But of course by the time bricklayers get to it that plastic is usually ripped to death .
Top work again Hendos...do the architect's know the dimensions of a brick n how to use a calculator....like your 6ps 👍
That's a hard one for you boys it should be all set out for brickwork and the windows will look a lot better no slips and no shit cuts
Good luck trying to change that thay are not easily beswade to a different way 👍👍👍👍👍
hint when your linning up the profile to father put a 1mm spacer between the profile and fasher
when you have a return and window that's what is recommended or show the tippy to put the tape at 150mm on the corner and mark the window if its a 2 brick return 630mm plus your 20mm wind break on window and it will be perfect every time just remember to start the measurement at 150mm on the corner gauge guys mark gauge rod from the top of the front of the window down and water level around the house and all your lintels will work flush top side of window all around the house
Boss always says anything smaller than a 170 it’s not getting cut will just look crap. Infill the gap up the window
Hayden Mackenzie agree 100% with that statement
Would you make 2grand a week over there?
I being critical but if we didn’t gauge to window heights and put a cut under a window the work would have to come down in the UK. 10:10 On top of that it’s messy and the joints aren’t top and tailed. Not trying to be a dick just wouldn’t say they did a really good job.
In England if its on a domestic build I will shuffle the opening about a little if I have to and the window sizes because there normally made to measure....if im on site it depends who im working for!! At the moment we have no wiggle room its got to be as is the drawing I've header 3 quarters up most of the reveals cause the architect has not thought about anything working bricks its a pain in the arse.
It's a timber frame build so he cant wiggle or move the windows as they're preformed ? We always build to the frame
always work to gauge
why do you put the bracket up so high buddy
Like you said mate make it work brick the joiner can put a trim round it to cover the gap, painted, siliconed looks 100% better than having shit cuts in it 👍
Weep holes under the sills on that other job... First time I've ever seen that! 🤔
Really?
Yeah. Never
Andy P there’s always weepholed under any window sill 600mm above floor level?
Never seen it mate. From sth east melb...
Looks pox I reckon
Andy P that’s crazy from west Melbourne and have never not seen it mandatory for weepholed under Windows here
That's a tough one hendo before I done anything I would ask the foreman and let him make the call...would be bad if u did it and were pulled on it from my own experience if your not sure go and talk to the foreman
isildur 1 some companies refuse to have gaps. What do you think looks better?
@@hendosbricklaying2003 I think a nice clean bit of brickwork with a 10 mil joint looks better but if that's the way the company want it what can u do if possible make the cavity smaller or bigger to give u 10 or 20 mil
isildur 1 ah yes for the returning wall?? So instead of a 40 mil cavity you can make a 30m to get a smaller joint makes sense unless you have an external gutter and fascia you have to catch at the top
@@hendosbricklaying2003 yes mate sometimes people think you have a magic wand in your hand instead of a trowel
isildur 1 I like that one mate 🤣🤣
The detail at windows are awful a split then a brick on edge to form a sill.
Do not use fire stops at the revels and corners exc in Australia?
On the window front plastic windows could plate them up the sides a suppose.
Scotland wouldn’t get away with leaving a gap around the window.
Hendo that hair is getting a bit style about it 😆😆👍🏻👍🏻
Keep up the good work mate.
Dennis Family homes are riddled with 3/4 everwhere,
Sure are... are you working for them mate ?
@@hendosbricklaying2003 Around Craigieburn, mickleham area, they have got to be the worst and you can't even use a bolster, the bricks just shatter.
Cheers mate, hope you got plenty of work.
isnt the flashing for that so you don't need to put the black plastic below the first course bad idea to engineering NCC doesn't recommend that guys
Those shifty cuts have ruined so many of my walls, some supervisors get it, and prefer the infills and some just don't get it. The moment you start shifting bond around to catch a window, is the moment the wall looks like a dog breakfast. Bloody hell they end up looking like zippers, and then it's almost impossible to cut so many bricks, and to have it look perfect without some deviations.
Infill 100% way to go.
I'd be more concerned with the cuts under the window,not a good look,
Richard Dixon only way to make panels continuing to the fascia work full brick lengths. Do it all the time here
Otherwise the house would be riddled with them
I’d be more worried if I was the architect for this house
Just looks odd but I guess architects know best,we just do as we're told.
Get the architect to make it work to 225!
As the Stones said " You can't always get what you want " Sometimes it doesn't work bricks , thought that gap was to big as C Jackson pointed out you don't put anything smaller than a half bat in so it will still look decent , though it's a pain in the arse . That said would seek clarification and find out what's acceptable , if the gaps acceptable , fair enough . I noticed on a previous vid you had a split course to reach cill brick height., it looked like face work . There wasn't enough courses to bump or grind to lose it so it's not a dig but it looked awful and wouldn't fly in the Uk . Is it acceptable in OZ ? Why not 3 quarter on edgecill bricks ? Both these issues speak to a poor architect at least in regard to brickwork .
There are a lot of splits under window sills here. I don’t see how you can make it work to the sill course whilst maintaining a gauge that reaches to top of window heights for lintels. It almost rarely works on jobs here without splits...
Appreciate it Stephen
@@hendosbricklaying2003 Totally agree with what you had to work with , splits were unavoidable . Design practices are different in the Uk , splits are never incorporated in face work for ascetic reasons .
Its not rocket science, make the building dimensions work brick sizes and the frames sizes then there is no need for silly cuts that make the finished product look less attractive
That's down to the architect. Although I totally agree mate
100%
These lads and all Aussie brickies are definitely doing best they can with how they are designed I just can’t get my head around why we are discussing a building that should be designed multiple of brick/ blocks! What the hell is up with these pen pushers it’s ridiculously simple and has been done millions of times before and making brickies work more than is needed they should be laying as much as poss not doing unnecessary daft crap looking cuts just because a bloke in a shirt n tie can’t be arsed to use his calculator and put a window aperture up or down a bit huh! Just saying 👍🏻
@@gilesj2215 totally agree
Architects and draughtsmen should be fully aware of brick sizes and working dimension', it would not be a problem for UPVC/timber companies manufacturing windows and doors for projects to, increase or decrease sizes to suit brick panels, these mass produced sizes are stupid, especially when they are 25mm out of sync with the brickwork.
I tell the window company they made the windows too small
Bad architectural work. Ask the gaffer let him take any comebacks. Get some end caps for your profiles. Why was your mate jointing the top of the brick. And finally what is an AJ. Hopefully not short for expansion joint.
Oncewasdonka Sure is bad Drawings.
When was he jointing top of brick what part of video I didn’t catch that I’ll have another look..
AJ= Articulation Joint
@@hendosbricklaying2003
13.11 mate
He must of been trying to look busy. Only asked because not sure if there was a reason. Articulation Joint bloody hell what next. We've had expansion joint and movement joint obviously they weren't technical enough. Anyway you seem to have a cracking little setup going and a hard worker so good on you. Cheers
He’s jointing the sill bricks aye have another look
@@CarbideEndMill
Thought there must of been a good reason. My brothers in Perth. Says it's a bit flat atm. But he always earned big bucks in the UK. Very good trowel but no spring chicken.
If the flashing is protruding past the face it cracks in the bed, also doesn’t bond properly, 5-10mm back. That’s a shit rule
Dragging Me Down I agree mate. Plus it looks horrendous sticking out. That’s what this company wants
Hendos Bricklaying yeah they sound frustrating to work for. Must be to make sure the flashing is there. You know some brickies have it 30mm back without giving a fuck..
surely they cant be telling you to lay on the concreters black plastic mate that is a joke
They are mate... a heap of builders
Now doing it believe it or not