Dang! I was hoping to see how you remove the nib from the handle and also how you re-install it. I am using an antique scythe that was handed down to me and can't figure out how to get the handles adjusted. the nut is embedded in the handle, so do I just keep twisting on that nib? It doesn't seem to budge and I see myself ruining it....
I see from another comment that you already figured it out, but for the sake of others, it's a left-handed thread so you have to turn it to the RIGHT to loosen it. :)
FortyTwoBlades thanks for everything! If I do another video involving scything, I'll give you a shoutout for sure! And will also link your channel in the description!
@@FortyTwoBlades Fantastic, I had no idea and gave up after trying it lefty-loosen. Hope it works on mine-- the nibs are super loose and makes mowing awful.
Brilliant! Um, except for one thing, this must be a video for aluminum snaths, as, I'm guessing, they are round in cross section. My Seymour SN1 wooden snath is not round in cross section and I'm having a terrible time in getting them tight after proper placement, Oh, had a terrible time getting them off! Had to heat up the nib where it contacted the snath with a propane torch to melt the lacquer, and I used a strap wrench made with a piece of heavy leather and vice grips so as not to tear up the wood.
rjiggy07 the problem is that Seymour is currently producing their wooden snaths with all sorts of problems. Among other issues, they should be smooth, linear taper and true round in cross-section. They also have a propensity to mount the collars out of alignment with the curves of the wood. We have a special arrangement with Seymour where we are able to buy the unfitted blanks and assemble them properly our selves.
You ain't kidding! lol.. Well, I benched out a washer to go in between the wood nib handle and the metal piece that fits against the snath handle. Of course that kept the screw threads from contacting the nut at the end of the handle. So I inset the nut deeper into the handle. Without the friction from the ruff surface of the clamp detail, the nib tightened up just fine. (I had noticed the wood dust from tightening and loosing the handle and found a very rough surface the wooden handle was tightening against). It would of been easier and faster if I would of punched out a piece of shim stock or even cut out a piece of pop can to make a washer that made the contact surface smooth, I wouldn't have had to drop the nut deeper. Now I'm adjusting the angle or "pitch" of my blade. I noticed that when I stooped over and got the edge more level with the ground, I actually cut grass! Ps, the video on tang adjustment with the induction coil didn't really teach me anything, except where to apply the heat. Which is important. K, it should be cool now, off to give er a try!
Got It!!! wow, I've learned a lot today. Mowed a small patch of old pasture, worked great! Now I know why I grew this belly I have! It'll be gone before the snow flies! Really is amazing the difference between a properly tuned scythe one you get from the UPS guy..lol... BTW, I had to keep cranking on my nib, as I worked, the soft ring started to conform to the handle and thus loosening up. Nice and tight and gripping the handle like it's supposed to. A simple 1/32nd thick washer would cure this problem. I should make a die and sell em...
Hi, great video, I was hoping you could tell me of a place I could buy a new handle for the top of my scythe. I want to restore onr and use it on our farm, but the used handle I came across is missing a grip or top handle (not quite sure what they are called). I have been having a herd time finding the specific part.
Right here! And if you're able to measure the diameter where you want to install it we can size the nib band for you free of charge. www.baryonyxknife.com/partspieces.html
Caffeine o vision reminds me of Benny Hill sketches
Dang! I was hoping to see how you remove the nib from the handle and also how you re-install it. I am using an antique scythe that was handed down to me and can't figure out how to get the handles adjusted. the nut is embedded in the handle, so do I just keep twisting on that nib? It doesn't seem to budge and I see myself ruining it....
I see from another comment that you already figured it out, but for the sake of others, it's a left-handed thread so you have to turn it to the RIGHT to loosen it. :)
FortyTwoBlades thanks for everything! If I do another video involving scything, I'll give you a shoutout for sure! And will also link your channel in the description!
@@FortyTwoBlades Fantastic, I had no idea and gave up after trying it lefty-loosen. Hope it works on mine-- the nibs are super loose and makes mowing awful.
Brilliant! Um, except for one thing, this must be a video for aluminum snaths, as, I'm guessing, they are round in cross section. My Seymour SN1 wooden snath is not round in cross section and I'm having a terrible time in getting them tight after proper placement, Oh, had a terrible time getting them off! Had to heat up the nib where it contacted the snath with a propane torch to melt the lacquer, and I used a strap wrench made with a piece of heavy leather and vice grips so as not to tear up the wood.
rjiggy07 the problem is that Seymour is currently producing their wooden snaths with all sorts of problems. Among other issues, they should be smooth, linear taper and true round in cross-section. They also have a propensity to mount the collars out of alignment with the curves of the wood. We have a special arrangement with Seymour where we are able to buy the unfitted blanks and assemble them properly our selves.
You ain't kidding! lol..
Well, I benched out a washer to go in between the wood nib handle and the metal piece that fits against the snath handle. Of course that kept the screw threads from contacting the nut at the end of the handle. So I inset the nut deeper into the handle. Without the friction from the ruff surface of the clamp detail, the nib tightened up just fine. (I had noticed the wood dust from tightening and loosing the handle and found a very rough surface the wooden handle was tightening against). It would of been easier and faster if I would of punched out a piece of shim stock or even cut out a piece of pop can to make a washer that made the contact surface smooth, I wouldn't have had to drop the nut deeper.
Now I'm adjusting the angle or "pitch" of my blade. I noticed that when I stooped over and got the edge more level with the ground, I actually cut grass!
Ps, the video on tang adjustment with the induction coil didn't really teach me anything, except where to apply the heat. Which is important.
K, it should be cool now, off to give er a try!
Got It!!! wow, I've learned a lot today. Mowed a small patch of old pasture, worked great! Now I know why I grew this belly I have! It'll be gone before the snow flies! Really is amazing the difference between a properly tuned scythe one you get from the UPS guy..lol...
BTW, I had to keep cranking on my nib, as I worked, the soft ring started to conform to the handle and thus loosening up. Nice and tight and gripping the handle like it's supposed to. A simple 1/32nd thick washer would cure this problem. I should make a die and sell em...
Hi, great video, I was hoping you could tell me of a place I could buy a new handle for the top of my scythe. I want to restore onr and use it on our farm, but the used handle I came across is missing a grip or top handle (not quite sure what they are called). I have been having a herd time finding the specific part.
Right here! And if you're able to measure the diameter where you want to install it we can size the nib band for you free of charge.
www.baryonyxknife.com/partspieces.html
After using mine for a while, I prefer to use it without the upper handle