So that was neat, I did work for my dad on an old lathe cutting parts flashing off of it.. what were you doing? taking a thousands off at a pass? it is key as always in the set up! the better you get it concentric as possible, the more accurate the final results. you can use a boring tool at the proper DIA. when the hole is with in the tolerance of the boring tool is set up at. it is great to see how it is all done, thank you for showing the process from start to finish!
Just noticed the tread of that wheel seems rather narrow. This brings up the thought of seeing some of your wheels appearing to drop into some frog gaps, causing me to question if your wheel profiles are on spec.
The wheels dropping into the frog gaps on my home railroad has more to do with my homemade frogs being beaten to death and poorly made to begin with than it does the wheel profile. The wheels are IBLS compliant. The track is not quite, but mostly close enough.
Too much work Aaron. You should go to your neighbor, the paper mill in Pittsford, VT and buy their paper wheels ! Paper wheels ? Yes composite of papier mâché. Many of Pullman passenger cars were equipped for decades of these wheels that absorbed vibrations until a bad wreck. Then they come into oblivion. In 1886, 60 000 wheels have been produced. In 1893 it was 115000. In 1986 T&NV RR at shut down of operation of their 56 miles logging line in Thurso QC, one of their battered to hell flatcar, # 35 had still one axle of these paper wheels. They could last long, close to a century ! As a footnote, the last stenciled date COT&S Westinghouse on air tank was made in CPR Angus shop in Montréal AN 9 ?? 57. It was a former CPR truss rod flat car.
I don´t know how much you milled, but couldn´t you just heat the wheel until it expand, put the axle and let it cool down ? Too hard to heat enough ? Or non concentric situation ?
@@MillBrookRailroad That's exactly the right way to do it... Pretty surprising how out of concentric the inner hub/recess in the front face of the wheel is. The OCD in me would pretty much require truing that up as well! If you're going to do a lot of these, purchase a 0.750" or 0.751" reamer. Skim/bore the axle hole to about 0.015" or so undersize, then ream the hole to size. As much as I don't like spending money, I buy lots of reamers because I don't like wasting time trying to hit a precise dimension with the boring bar.
I am certainly no expert. I once built some airplane parts for my expiermental airplane (that I no longer have). I drilled to an undersize below 3/4 inch and then used a reamer to take the hole to size. Would that method work here?
Кино
So that was neat, I did work for my dad on an old lathe cutting parts flashing off of it.. what were you doing?
taking a thousands off at a pass? it is key as always in the set up! the better you get it concentric
as possible, the more accurate the final results. you can use a boring tool at the proper DIA. when
the hole is with in the tolerance of the boring tool is set up at. it is great to see how it is all done, thank
you for showing the process from start to finish!
I must say a very well rounded video!
Why, thank you! Stick a-round and see what turns up.
Just noticed the tread of that wheel seems rather narrow. This brings up the thought of seeing some of your wheels appearing to drop into some frog gaps, causing me to question if your wheel profiles are on spec.
The wheels dropping into the frog gaps on my home railroad has more to do with my homemade frogs being beaten to death and poorly made to begin with than it does the wheel profile. The wheels are IBLS compliant. The track is not quite, but mostly close enough.
I think I would have indicated z just to check before boring since you were right there.
Is the Millbrook foundry Company building more Engines or Cars to serve mire customers ?😅❤❤❤
No. Building more locomotives for customers.
Too much work Aaron. You should go to your neighbor, the paper mill in Pittsford, VT and buy their paper wheels !
Paper wheels ?
Yes composite of papier mâché. Many of Pullman passenger cars were equipped for decades of these wheels that absorbed vibrations until a bad wreck. Then they come into oblivion.
In 1886, 60 000 wheels have been produced. In 1893 it was 115000.
In 1986 T&NV RR at shut down of operation of their 56 miles logging line in Thurso QC, one of their battered to hell flatcar, # 35 had still one axle of these paper wheels.
They could last long, close to a century !
As a footnote, the last stenciled date COT&S
Westinghouse on air tank was made in CPR Angus shop in Montréal AN 9 ?? 57. It was a former CPR truss rod flat car.
Wow!
I'll still stick to steel wheels.
I don´t know how much you milled, but couldn´t you just heat the wheel until it expand, put the axle and let it cool down ?
Too hard to heat enough ? Or non concentric situation ?
Too large an axle. I was going from .625" to .750".
Oups....i agree, no choice. Thanks for answering. Happy 4th of july coming😊😊😊
thats what you call a boring good time
Either that, or it's a good time boring.
I would assume it can be a pain to get these centered at times 😁👍
It certainly can be. That's why I put it in the 4-jaw chuck and indexed to the tread.
@@MillBrookRailroad That's exactly the right way to do it... Pretty surprising how out of concentric the inner hub/recess in the front face of the wheel is. The OCD in me would pretty much require truing that up as well!
If you're going to do a lot of these, purchase a 0.750" or 0.751" reamer. Skim/bore the axle hole to about 0.015" or so undersize, then ream the hole to size. As much as I don't like spending money, I buy lots of reamers because I don't like wasting time trying to hit a precise dimension with the boring bar.
I am certainly no expert. I once built some airplane parts for my expiermental airplane (that I no longer have). I drilled to an undersize below 3/4 inch and then used a reamer to take the hole to size. Would that method work here?
It would work here.
This is a really BORING video…… ba-dum-chhh. Hey im here all week
Try the veal.