I’m 16, probably with less than year of experience with chainsaws, and this video taught me ALOT, also showed me how many things I was doing wrong and how unsafe I was being, thank you a lot for this video and keep up the great work!
I up-liked your comment as you wrote a great comment. You've used a chainsaw many times? I've just bought one and I've never used one. I've always taken the danger of them very seriously and find that aspect quite worrying, so I think the full face screen is a great thing as it might just make all the difference if those chisel teeth reach the face. There is one comment here of a guy to whom this happened, it made for sobering reading! Gruesome! He “never was able to resume his carpentry work again”. The moment it'll catch you out is when showing off and / or when most relaxed, and definitely when in a hurry. My advice as a full grown guy; If cutting logs is one of our chores and there's a timeline to have it done by, never leave it to the last minute, and never because you want to hurry on to your next thing, basically never do it for a quota chasing a clock. At 16 years, you've a long life to go, keep it a good one. I'm looking out for the best value ear defenders, face guard, 'snagger'- chaps, (I have rubberised stretch garden gloves, they should do. Beware, leather gloves when dirty and wet can be really slippery and catch you out when grip is all important, so that and foot grip must be why sawing in the rain is a big no-no, not to mention shock from the spark plug which is of "high tension" and deadly) and a hard hat. I wonder if you saw another YT video, different channel, of "life fails"? I'm not sure what it was called but this random guy had a short piece of branch fly off a small, dead tree, when that crashed to the ground, and when the branch piece fell back to Earth it slammed, vertically directly into the top of the guy's head and actually punctured through two layers of safety plastic helmet where the vent hole was shattered the helmet! It remained wedged upright in the vent hole it had punched through. It literally pushed the outer layer off his hat up by punching the inner layer or padding down against the resistance of his skull. Without a hard hat on, can you imagine? Having seen that, if I'm ever cutting any tree, especially one with dead branches, I'm wearing a head hat for sure. It seems to me we should wear all of that stuff! Dry, thick leather gloves, grippy boots (preferably with steel toe-caps) etc. Well okay, if just cutting logs really carefully, slowly, then definitely the ear protectors, leather gloves, face-visor and those expensive chaps. According to the Small Engine Repair guy channel - with his penchant for various beers, (never drink and chainsaw) you should never drop-pull any small engine device, for so many reasons, one of which is that it significantly wears and strains the spring-loaded retract and pulling system mechanism. Second, what if you actually slip the handle while dropping it, though it starts, then hits the ground such that the break is deactivated and the chains spins and revs all in a heartbeat? It's unlikely but so was a stick of lumber in the helmet! Weird things happen. We could lose a foot! I'd favour getting used to a left handed pull start at arms length, downwards of course, not out on front at arms length, ha ha ha, I'm not Ironman or something. F.Y.I. “ALOT” means to designate something to someone or some group, you meant, A LOT. Happy trails, bro. Stay safe.
Flooding means you have too much gas and not enough air so it can't burn because there's not enough oxygen in the cylinder anymore. You need about 10 parts air to one part gas before correct combustion. Flooded just means there's too much gas. The reason holding down the throttle and turning the choke off is now you are opening up as much air as you can possibly pump into the system at a time. So if you don't want to just wait forever, you can open the throttle all the way and eventually you'll pump out enough of the fuel and get enough air back inside at it will fire up and start. Hope that helps.
While I was watching your tutorial and you were emphasizing care needed to prevent kickback. Many years ago a neighbour of mine who was a master carpenter was cutting with a chainsaw in a small community 57 miles north of my town of Wawa. In a split second the chainsaw kicked back and exactly as you said it came across his face. It tore his face up and damaged his eye when it destroyed his tear duct. He was fortunate that they got him to a hospital in my town. His career as a carpenter was over. Kick backs are bad news. Glad you pointed that out. Great tutorial. Still watching it!
As im sure others have already said flooding an engine is caused from to much gas in the cylinder it actually soaks the spark plug preventing proper ignition. Holding the throttle open allows air into the cylinder this helps to dry the cylinder/plug but also corrects air fuel ratio allowing the engine to run. I really enjoy your watching climbing and felling in the south we don’t climb much mostly done from a bucket
Important to remember when buying small amounts (1 or 2 gallons) of ethanol free gas is that stations that use multiple types of fuel that use a single hose will have up to 1 or 2 gallons of whatever the last use was in the hose system! You may think you are getting ethanol free, but it may not be the case. I always pump a few gallons into vehicle tank and then fill up smaller containers. Chickanic does a good video on this.
I’ve never been to a gas station with ethanol free that shared a hose. They are always separate where I’m at. I don’t know why any station wouldn’t be like this.
I had an oak limb, about 5 inches wide, snap out of the top of a tree that I was cutting. I didn't even have enough time to move, so I tried to duck my head down and reduce the chance of getting an even worse injury. It caught the side of my head, right behind my ear, as well as my shoulder and across my back. I walked away from it with my head and right shoulder ripped open and a damaged muscle in my back. If I had a helmet, I wouldn't have had a gash on my head, and if I had been paying closer attention, I probably wouldn't have been in that situation to begin with. PPE and situational awareness are two of the most important things no matter what you're doing.
Hi. This is one of the best basic chainsaw orientations and basic chainsaw safety training videos on RUclips. When you were reading your raker depth guage you were reading it as "point two-five". It actually reads .025 which means the top of the raker is 25 thousandths of an inch below the top of each cutting tooth when the chain is properly sharpened. This provides ideal chips when cutting. Your more extensive video on this subject is equally good. Thank you very much. They are extremely helpful.
Ol' Chainsaw Gramma here...have both Stihl and a Husqvarna. One thing I do after warming up a saw that I think is ready to go, is I put down a little chunk of cleanish cardboard or some newspaper and full throttle the saw blade over it. If your oiler is working properly, there should be an oil streak on the paper showing that your oiler is indeed oiling the blade and not plugged up. Beats finding that your blade is hot when you're in the thick of cutting.
When it's flooded and you hold it wide open it will start because your introducing a huge volume of air to rectify the issue of having too much fuel. Great video !
Thank you very much for making this video. I just got back from North Carolina volunteering for tree removal after hurricane Helene and this information helped a lot. Much appreciated
Well done, I was wondering about the legality of doing precisely that! Did you get paid or was it voluntary and if so was it organised or did you just go there and randomly hack into trees to help clear up? We're you alone, go alone? Did you ask people if they wanted their trees cut down or just do it as they weren't there to ask, or did you only cut those trees blocking roads or that you perceived as a danger? What about telegraph poles blocking roads that emergency vehicles of people trying to leave or get back to their home would be stopped by? Let's hear it, I'd love to know.
Great job teaching the new kids out there. Not everyone uses these things. You, sir, are a recognized expert in you field, and the people who watch this video are getting sound advice.
A tip for fueling up: use a small brush to clear debris from the cap areas. A laundry detergent bottle with a pour spout will make filling up the oil tank easier. For most homeowners looking to purchase a saw to use a few days per year, I recommend getting a battery saw. Milwaukee, Dewalt, Makita, or whatever brand you might already have is a good choice. Avoid the super cheap knockoff brands or used saws from a stranger. What might seem like a good deal will likely lead to a lot of frustration later.
Great job teaching. I learned from my dad alot as he was a logger in the ex Yugoslav company using old Tomos - Husqvarna 770. Now im operating the same saw 30 years later. Your video teached me how to use the saw safer. Cheers from Slovenia 🍻
Just a quick tip on the ethanol free fuel. If someone used that pump before you, the hose could be full of ethanol fuel. I always put a gallon in my car before filling the gas cans.
@@dad_uchiha1707 Some places do pump ethanol fuel and non-ethanol fuel through the same hose & nozzle. Some places have dedicated nozzles for the non-ethanol fuel. You have to keep an eye out for this. If they do use the same nozzle, it is a good idea to pump the first gallon or so, into your car first, then fill the gas can that you use for the saw. You never know what grade of fuel the person before you put into their car, and the hose and switchover valve inside the pump might be, most likely, filled with ethanol fuel.
Thank you, newbe here. I bought a small one a Lowes. The fella recommended to watch a vid before using. WOW, so glad I did. Not falling trees just cutting branches, 2" diameter ones for fire wood. Very good, sent to my email so I can watch it whenever I need. Still winter here in Alaska, but preparing.
Don't work with bare feet, with slippy footwear, nor dirty gloves that get dirty and wet from wet wood, all very dangerous. Are feet because of electric shock, slippage, and dropping. Not too many people hold on to an active chainsaw when a Oak log has just separated three of their toes from where they should be. 😖😳🤯
Very good tutorial! Thanks! I have the 455 Rancher myself. Just bought two new Oregon chains for it today. It's nice to see a tutorial using the exact equipment I have! I like the 455 Rancher. I also looked at the 460, but it's heavier and i didn't really need the 24" bar it comes with. I bought the 455 because I had to cut up a big fallen oak and a big pine that it knocked over when it came down after it was struck by lightning last summer. Both trees ended up lying right across my long driveway through the woods. I didn't even know it had happened, but my wife called me when she came home and found that the driveway now disappeared into those big fallen trees! I got a lot of firewood from them, but it was most of a week of work for me to cut everything up and stack all of the wood and clean up the area. I needed the exercise anyway!
I have been watching lots of wood cutting /splitting videos for many years including yours from your previous chanel to now, here in the UK and cutting and processing my own wood for 11 years. I have never commented on any of them, as much as I enjoyed them, but I have to say that even though I feel I know a lot, I learned something useful from every stage of this video. Great for all levels of experience. Well done, a great recourse for the wood cutting community!
The rakes are strange looking because it is a safety chain. They are normally included on home owner chainsaws so you have to tell them you want a real chain not the safety chain. The safety chain cuts a lot slower because it takes a smaller chip but it is also a lot harder to get kick back so it is safer. I didn't know about the safety chains once and ended up with one. I took the chainsaw back because it cut so poorly. He told me about the chains and I bought a good one. Kept the safety chain for an emergency backup but have never put it back on. Love your videos.
I used a sharpie and marked 2 lines on my bar from the tip to 16 and one for 18 inches, then i can just walk along the log and use the tip to mark where to cut, works pretty slick!
Dad always said youre never done learning until you're 5 feet under. I always allreciate watching these because i feel you can always learn something new!
IF YOUR A HOMEOWNER CHAIN SAWER - THIS IS A HIGHLY RECOMENDED SAFTEY TRAINING VIDEO !!! Having worked in industry for years, I have seen a lot of Safety training videos. I would like to thank you very much for this video. I just bought a new chain saw. Although I have used chains saws over the years occasional , I'm no seasoned pro. I liked your video because It felt like I was taking an effective re-occurring safety training that just might keep from getting hurt. Once again Thank you very much for this "REQUIRED" safety training for the chainsaw newbie. Appreciate it brother
I’m a homeowner with a decent amount of experience using a saw but I still watch these videos to learn something. I’ve had a saw kickback a few times but didn’t know exactly why till this. Always good to learn more or at least remind yourself how to be safe.
Those rakers are for kick back reduction, probably a kind of fail safe built into these home owner semi pro style saws as not seen in the xp style saws which I would then assume the operator is of higher skill level. Would be good to try a regular chain versus this one in the video and try the kick back test again and see any difference
That is a great video to learn how to own/operate a chainsaw. Thank you for teaching and helping to reiterate how to properly use a chainsaw. One thing beginners need to know on saws especially stihl saws is that when you put it at half choke the saw is going to be running at a high rpm and it only takes 30 seconds at full throttle to destroy a chain break so when the saw starts to rev on half choke immediately blip the throttle so that the rpms go down. This is one of the best beginner tutorials out there in my opinion.
3:38 as watching wondering why you don’t recommend canned pre-mix? A local dealer extends warranty if customers use it? And why not recommend biodegradable bar oil?
I no longer own a chainsaw. I am so physically broken I have a hard time just trying to grocery shop. I'll probably never cut another tree down before I leave this world. Am I going to watch a 1:18:50 chainsaw tutorial video? Absolutely. Plus, I'm gonna like it before I watch it. I know I'm gonna like it but also know I'll forget to hit the like button. Keep doing what you're doing.
@@michaelboyle1983 Your message was ambiguous, it might be perceived in two ways; one of them a warning, one just to say you're elderly or ill, or both, but that you used to love tree felling/falling (U.S.) that much that you'll still watch a long show. My feeling is you had a related accident some time ago. Please share a little more if you feel so inclined. Well wishes to you.
@@r.martin3494 I believe you replied to me when you meant to ask those questions to the person who wrote the original comment. You could edit your comment if you want. God bless you!
Very comprehensive tutorial and you covered all the important topics of the chainsaw. Nice job! I am a 50-year DIYer chainsawer and it seems I never quit learning about these awesome tools. Only thing I'd add is that I do exactly what you do for long term storage but I run engineered fuel thru it before putting it away (vs keeping it dry) . The engineered fuel lasts two years and keeps the diaphragms lubed. Be sure to buy the 50:1 mix. What kills fuel systems is not only ethanol (minor) but the benzene found in all gas station gas. Benzene is the major killer of fuel systems. Engineered fuel has little/no ethanol or benzene and will not wreck your fuel system. I run gas station fuel when operating the saw (lots cheaper) but store with engineered fuel.
As a woodturner I get access to quite a few logs from local tree surgeons. I need to cut them up to store to allow to dry. In have been using a small electric chain saw to chop smaller branches around 6 to 7 inches in diameter. I am moving up to larger bowls (15 inches diameter ) and as such now need a more powerful chainsaw and longer bar . I have just purchased a petrol chainsaw with 20 inch bar. But in respect of how dangerous it could be have embarked on a lot of video watching to educate myself on the correct and more importantly safe use before I start. I have viewed several videos on you tube but your video has provided so much comprehensive iniformation, instruction and guidance, delivered in an easy to understand way. I will refer back to it again and again in the future. Thank you for making such a superb video. It has helped a great deal.
I'm glad I learned from this video before jumping into using a chainsaw. I feel informed and prepared to not only cut effectively but, especially, to cut safely. The chapter on how to maintain the saw optimally is also very much appreciated. Great channel. Super helpful video. Thank you.
I've been using a chainsaw for 25+ years. I want to say I learned from this video and will be using some of the information you supplied... I knew allot already but this video showed me about chainsaw sights(I didn't know of such a feature), it also helped me understand about compression and tension(will definitely help from getting my bar pinched). I picked up a few more tips as well but wanted to point out the two major important lessons learned. Thank you Sir. Amazingly informative video.
Accidents! I young fella I knew had an Oak limb fall and couldn't get up. The prosthetic was after he slipped squeezed th trigger on the chainsaw and without getting too gorey, lets just say he leaves trackers in the forest, stumped!
I highly recommend to viewers to also watch the video "world's best tree felling tutorial, 8 ways to fell a tree". I watched a lot of videos on chainsaws and how to fell trees but the amount of knowledge and skills level that you have is truly impressive. As a viewer, you're really learning from a professional. Keep up the good work brother. 👍
Here in the Netherlands we use Aspen 2 stroke fuel for chainsaws and garden tools. because it is already 50:1 fuel and you can keep it in your tank for a long time without any problems.
Great information! As someone that never attempted felling a tree, you shared some valuable information. For those that comment what you “didnt” cover, they gave me more to look up about more details. Keep making these videos, you speak with humility and great knowledge.
Thank you SO much. I just bought an electric chainsaw and being a total noob went looking for help - so glad I found this - ex teacher here and I give 10/10 for presentation. The tip about the dirt is really helpful. Thanks again from my side of the pond ! 👍👍😝
I'm a new homeowner in a wooded area. This video was very informative. I Lost my dad a year ago and he was a chainsaw/wood guy. So I have his husqavarna chainsaws. One this size and 1 bigger. Watching this video made me alot more confident. I wouldn't dare taking on a big tree like you did in this video without my uncle around. But I recently got the milwakuee fuel m18 hatchet which I'm much more comfortable with to use on the smaller trees in my yard until I get more comfortable using the heavier machines.
I'm getting to be an old guy and have been cutting firewood my whole life. I still learned a lot from you - maybe I have been doing it wrong the entire time. Thank you for the great attitude. You should know that some of us also laugh at ourselves.
Great tutorial. I’m definitely not a pro, but I’m not a beginner either, and I learned a lot from this. I especially liked the maintenance portion. Thanks Jacob!
Thank you for the very very good basics refresher! Been a few years and lots of yelling at home at youtuber fellers drop starting without telling people that its dangerous🤦♀️. Youve done a top rate job!
Truth be told I have to thank you for your video's as cutting down very large standing dry oaks has always been very sketchy for me, but through your video's I have learned how to aim, different cut's, how the hinge works and the importance of wedges when felling. I wanted that 455 rancher, but it was not available when I needed a saw so I purchased the 460 as that was the only Husqvarna available at that time without having to wait. A good saw just a little large and heavier when beginning. Thanks again.
I’ve run a chain saw since I was 9 years old! I’m not a pro now nor will I ever be and I’m certainly never gonna be a climber but brother I’ll tell ya this was very informative! I cut firewood with my dad each fall! I’m grateful for the info! Keep doing what you’re doing!
Enjoying your videos. I actually have the 450 Rancher . I have used it a lot over the last year. I have been clearing out the down and leaning trees in my woods or bush as some call it. It has been over 20 years since it had last been done. At least 15 trees so far and a lot more to go.
On the choke, when you pull it out, that is full choke. When you push it in is half choke, and pulling the trigger closes the choke. So the high idle is from the half choke. Great info and super easy to understand. Even having been an avid chainsaw guy but being completely self taught, it’s nice to learn something from the pros!!!
Love the video, you did a great job discussing the subject. I didn’t realize I have ethanol free gas around me, I used to use premium with stabilizer. Thank you so much for what you do. Great for us armchair climbers.😊
I have been told that if I have had to tighten the bar after it has been running for a while to make sure you loosen the bar when you are done an put it up. The reason you have to tighten the chain is because it has heated up and the metal has expanded. Once it cools down, the metal will shrink back down. If you don't loosen up the bar, it will get really tight and wear out your sprocket bearing faster.
One guick note on fuel as an ex stihl dealer. Your spot on about the ethanol in today's fuel but occtain does matter. Stihl recommends 92 or better . Also only fill your cans to premix ratio. Most gas cans hold more the stated amount
Also, adding any oil at all to fuel will reduce the octane by a point or two, per bottle. You can start with 91, but by your second mix bottle your octane might actually be 87-89. Use the highest non-ethanol octane available
Definitely a recommended watch for anyone from hobbyist to professional. Alot of small tips and tricks that aren't really taught and only can be picked up from on saw time and experience
I cut props with cross cut growing up. Got my first chainsaw when I was 14. Homesite zip! Cut timber being instructed by older West Virginia lumber jacks! Caution ! Soo many variables to consider ! Big timber ! Leaning and decaying trunks. Only a few !! Start small , observe, have a path of retreat! There is a reason for bigger professional saws especially in bigger timber ! Next lesson! Good job ! Keep it up!!
First video of yours I’ve ever watched. I conveniently bought my first saw two weeks ago and have little experience.. watched the whole video through and learned alot. Appreciate you taking the time to make this long of a video.
As a homeowner who is over-compensating with my 660... and battery operated climbing saws I thoroughly enjoyed this video and I will stop killing grass with my refueling...
I was about to do the same and pick up a big saw before a buddy talked me into a 180 then I found a 192t for cheap and use that little thing more than anything.
I find this video really helpful for starters. Im 15 and I think i need to learn a lot more but i have 2 very own chainsaws a 462c and a 661c they are great!
I dont work trees, but have worked a haunted house for over 10 years. For many of those I was the person in charge of maintaining the saws. (Preface: this is simply my two cents) My start procedure is to hit the bulb until you feel it squirt, and squirt it more than 5 less than...idk 12? times. Youll get a feel for your saw, read the instructions, etc. Put it on the ground, put your foot in the handle, flip it on, pull the choke, hold the handle, grip the chord and give it 3 good tugs. If it doesnt 'burp' (it sounds like it tries to catch instead of just turns), push the choke into the half position (if the saw has it) and pull til its right up against the compression, then start ripping on the chord, good long strokes if it doesnt start after 5 pulls or so turn the choke off, and give it another round. Once it starts give it a few partial trigger gooses to get flow through the system, maybe a little ramp up, but avoid full throttle when cold. Let it sit idling for a few minutes, then goose it up, hit the rev limit, make sure its running smooth and right. And there ya go! You're saw is good to go. There will be a point if you let it sit too long (about 5 to 10min in my experience, granted we only run them a few minutes at a time) the vapor will dissipate and the heat wont get it in the air, and youll have to give it some good tugs to get her goin again. Worse comes to worse, put in on the ground, foot in, half choke and reef on it. Otherwise, you can just flick it on, grab the toggle hold it up do your belly and toss the saw down and away! The longer its been setting the more youll want to give it a tiny flick of the throttle. ......but if you actually have a chain BE CAREFUL!!! Machines do not think, care, or feel sorry. Its your job to stay safe. You are the only person ultimately responsible for your actions. Slow is safe, and safe is good. Use your brain. The 'flooded' state our guy talks about is when too much raw fuel has entered the cylinder basically drowning the spark. By starting it wide open you're allowing A LOT of air in, and any fuel it pulls from the carb will atomize (remember, vapor burns, not liquid). So itll blow out the wet causing the spark plug to ground out, and help move any saturated air out, pulling in some better mixed air/fuel nice and atomized into the cylinder. Remember not to run the saw off idle with the break on (Id even dare to say avoid idling it for a long time with the break on, but thats just me) you dont want to wear it out. Again, BE SAFE!!! The first thing you should do above all is stop and THINK ABOUT WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!! Thats why safety is third. First is think, second is to plan and plan for what to do WHEN that goes wrong by thinking about what can go wrong (not if it goes wrong, WHEN it goes wrong), that will dictate your third step: SAFETY!!!! BE SAFE!!! Being cool aint as cool as being safe. The coolest guy on the site is the guy who still has all his fingers, or hasnt caused others to lose theirs by dicking around.
East coast weather is different. It's 1-1 with fuel and bar oil. I'll fuel up but deliberately give extra oil. I'll deal with a saw on empty before I have to fight with an oil starved saw
A cut above the rest. You really raised the bar with this tutorial. You managed to wedge so much information into a relatively short cut. Unfortunately I had to skip past all the stuff involving the bar because I'm a recovering alcoholic. I'm not gonna lie I was pretty chapped at first. It's hard to relax and kick back with all this bar talk flying past your head. I used to be clinically compressed but after watching your tutorial I realized I was just coming at it from the wrong angle. I've always been a bit tense but thanks to you I've learned to face the tension head on. I'll admit you got a bit pushy in the second half of the tutorial. Hey, you're human. We all hit the dirt at some point but just when it seemed that the tutorial was too dull to go on you hit us with some of the sharpest material yet.
I would have gladly paid for this training. I have been homestead cutting for a couple of years. Some of this I learned but the rest was much needed! Thanks...
@Dale.Nienow This is my and I am insulted! I have been youtube certified for a whole 3 months! I have bought my Chinese WEMARS 6220g, and ryobi 40v top handle. I am a certified pro-fessionAL. 😂 Nah, this is actually really cool. This is probably the best how to videos for chainsaws. I had to look up a bunch of different videos when I learned how to use a chainsaw and take down trees. I've only taken down one big(18inch) one so far, but a lot of smaller ones(4inch).
Very good video.. you are very good to explain…. you never thought about teaching your profession at arborist school (I don’t know what this course is called in 🇺🇸) lol
I've only seen one other "How To"... and this video is Hands THE BEST. You covered absolutely everything that someone should know about using a chainsaw!! Great video
Best cheinsaw video I've ever seen. One thing I've always done is put the oil in can before the petrol (gas) as it's easy to forget if you put in oil afterwards. It also mixes the oil and petrol when filling.
Very well done. Really first rate info, and your sense of humor (whimsy) is contageous. I have an old Husky 55 (1999) that still runs like a champ. It's punched way above its weight and I joke (or am I joking?) that I want to be burried with it. Starts right up and bingo, I'm in business. The only thing I think you might have covered is that the cutters are generally sharpened with the bar pointed in opposite directions so you file towards the cutting edge of the cutter. Oh. Nitpicking, but the raker file gauge you demonstrated was .025, not .25.
I really appreciate this video! I’m starting my own business in tree removal and just got a big boy saw and started taking some bigger jobs but I didn’t really have much experience in felling larger trees
I have ran ethanol premium gas in my chainsaws and trimmers for decades without any issues. I just add stabilizer to my 5 gallon container of gas, and then mix a gallon at a time. I have found the vegetable based bar oil to be very thin, and gets used up very fast.
As an East Coast guy, I put full wraps on my 562 and 585 and they are game changers. Much love to you from North Carolina 🤙. Great stuff. Although I have been running saws for many years, I still enjoy watching videos like this to learn as much as I can. Be careful out there 😉🫡 . I had a close call with my 585 with a 32” bar and I went straight to get a pair of chaps. $125 is way cheaper than a hospital bill. I also wear steel toe boots as well. Great advice all around 🤙🤙
Very good tutorial, I learnt a lot, despite reading the instuction manual that came with my mains electric, listening and watching your tutorial was much better. I am new to chain saws and will not be using one much , hence the mains electric. One thing you didn't cover was the direction of the chain when fitting one for the first time. I think I asked the question on U-tube and it took me to a short film on that. It is obviously second nature for you and people working in the industry, but not for home owners initially. Thanks again for a very informative video. David from England.
I have been watching how you go about doing your chainsaw routine. We both like to spill gas and don't use a funnel for chain oil.Great beginner instruction.
This video was great! I literally knew almost nothing before cutting down my first tree. And not much more before buying my first saw (out of necessity: big tree fell over in a windstorm mostly blocking my front door). But, one day i found your old channel and have learned so much more! I actually went out to buy wedges! Previously i was using small sticks in the back cut to prevent the tree from pinching my bar... But i was also cutting all the way through the hinge. I cut much more cautious now and use my wedges... I still need to get a decent axe, but it's on my list with some chaps. I actually barely knicked a pair of jeans once 🙀
We have a little over 100 acres of forest as a side hustle but we've always let a company do the lumbering. But now I got a little interested in doing some hobby felling. Great intro tutorial! I will sign up for a professional course to get the hang of it in practice.
A saw is "flooded" when the fuel-air ratio in the cylinder exceeds the combustion range (not enough air/oxygen to burn the fuel). When unflooding, holding the throttle works because at full throttle the carburetor lets in more air in than at Idle, Leaning the over-rich condition back out into the combustion range.
This video was incredibly helpful, but i would've loved a short touch up on carburetor adjustment with elevation change and environmental variables. Thank you for making such a helpful video!
Your raker gauge is .025, or 25 hundredths. That is how much lower the raker is from the cutting tooth. In your case, you are filing your rakers down .025 lower than your cutters. So that means it will take off .025 of wood each time the cutter hits the wood.
I can appreciate how it’s hard for you to make the kickback look as dangerous as it is, since you know it’s coming and you know how to hold the saw to absorb it.
For gas, I always put a few gallons in the truck to get the non-ethanol out of hose. A ratio rite and quarts or gallons of mix are much much cheaper than the pre-measure. Gordy sells ratio rites.
The point about letting saws warm up before use is critical. Particularly if you are interested in getting long and useful lives out of your saws. The basic gist is that the piston is usually made of a lighter weight alloy material than what the cylinder head is cast from and, when you start a saw and immediately give it the beans without letting it warm up from idle, the piston will expand in size at a faster rate than than the cylinder head, which results in the piston expanding to a point where it will begin scoring itself and the cylinder walls; the rapid expansion of the piston can also cause the rings to seize as well. I worked on an MS 462 Magnum recently which had this happen so badly that chunks of ring material managed to embed themselves in the piston. One other comment I might make from the section on saw starting - you showed a few shots of the saw sitting on the ground idling and warming up. Depending on your region and usual climate, this might not be a problem, but where I live in Montana this can pose a significant fire risk if the muffler happens to be in front of or near flammable brush. Same goes for when you shut the saw off and set it down with a hot muffler or bar & chain. Of course, too, if the fire danger reaches a certain level, the saws may need to just be put away completely. I service and sell STIHL chainsaws for a living, and do plenty of logging in my spare time as a hobby and side gig. Love your videos, keep it up
Thanks dude! I started using the chainsaw a few months ago, and I learned so much from watching your videos. You seem like a cool dude as well, all the best
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I’m 16, probably with less than year of experience with chainsaws, and this video taught me ALOT, also showed me how many things I was doing wrong and how unsafe I was being, thank you a lot for this video and keep up the great work!
@Mcrispy4014
I up-liked your comment as you wrote a great comment. You've used a chainsaw many times? I've just bought one and I've never used one. I've always taken the danger of them very seriously and find that aspect quite worrying, so I think the full face screen is a great thing as it might just make all the difference if those chisel teeth reach the face. There is one comment here of a guy to whom this happened, it made for sobering reading! Gruesome! He “never was able to resume his carpentry work again”. The moment it'll catch you out is when showing off and / or when most relaxed, and definitely when in a hurry. My advice as a full grown guy; If cutting logs is one of our chores and there's a timeline to have it done by, never leave it to the last minute, and never because you want to hurry on to your next thing, basically never do it for a quota chasing a clock. At 16 years, you've a long life to go, keep it a good one.
I'm looking out for the best value ear defenders, face guard, 'snagger'- chaps, (I have rubberised stretch garden gloves, they should do. Beware, leather gloves when dirty and wet can be really slippery and catch you out when grip is all important, so that and foot grip must be why sawing in the rain is a big no-no, not to mention shock from the spark plug which is of "high tension" and deadly) and a hard hat. I wonder if you saw another YT video, different channel, of "life fails"? I'm not sure what it was called but this random guy had a short piece of branch fly off a small, dead tree, when that crashed to the ground, and when the branch piece fell back to Earth it slammed, vertically directly into the top of the guy's head and actually punctured through two layers of safety plastic helmet where the vent hole was shattered the helmet! It remained wedged upright in the vent hole it had punched through. It literally pushed the outer layer off his hat up by punching the inner layer or padding down against the resistance of his skull. Without a hard hat on, can you imagine? Having seen that, if I'm ever cutting any tree, especially one with dead branches, I'm wearing a head hat for sure. It seems to me we should wear all of that stuff! Dry, thick leather gloves, grippy boots (preferably with steel toe-caps) etc.
Well okay, if just cutting logs really carefully, slowly, then definitely the ear protectors, leather gloves, face-visor and those expensive chaps.
According to the Small Engine Repair guy channel - with his penchant for various beers, (never drink and chainsaw) you should never drop-pull any small engine device, for so many reasons, one of which is that it significantly wears and strains the spring-loaded retract and pulling system mechanism.
Second, what if you actually slip the handle while dropping it, though it starts, then hits the ground such that the break is deactivated and the chains spins and revs all in a heartbeat? It's unlikely but so was a stick of lumber in the helmet! Weird things happen. We could lose a foot! I'd favour getting used to a left handed pull start at arms length, downwards of course, not out on front at arms length, ha ha ha, I'm not Ironman or something.
F.Y.I. “ALOT” means to designate something to someone or some group, you meant, A LOT.
Happy trails, bro. Stay safe.
Excellently done. What a wonderfully comprehensive tutorial! You don't just lecture -- you demonstrate every single point you make. Thank you!!!
Flooding means you have too much gas and not enough air so it can't burn because there's not enough oxygen in the cylinder anymore. You need about 10 parts air to one part gas before correct combustion. Flooded just means there's too much gas. The reason holding down the throttle and turning the choke off is now you are opening up as much air as you can possibly pump into the system at a time. So if you don't want to just wait forever, you can open the throttle all the way and eventually you'll pump out enough of the fuel and get enough air back inside at it will fire up and start. Hope that helps.
While I was watching your tutorial and you were emphasizing care needed to prevent kickback. Many years ago a neighbour of mine who was a master carpenter was cutting with a chainsaw in a small community 57 miles north of my town of Wawa. In a split second the chainsaw kicked back and exactly as you said it came across his face. It tore his face up and damaged his eye when it destroyed his tear duct. He was fortunate that they got him to a hospital in my town. His career as a carpenter was over. Kick backs are bad news. Glad you pointed that out. Great tutorial. Still watching it!
As im sure others have already said flooding an engine is caused from to much gas in the cylinder it actually soaks the spark plug preventing proper ignition. Holding the throttle open allows air into the cylinder this helps to dry the cylinder/plug but also corrects air fuel ratio allowing the engine to run. I really enjoy your watching climbing and felling in the south we don’t climb much mostly done from a bucket
Important to remember when buying small amounts (1 or 2 gallons) of ethanol free gas is that stations that use multiple types of fuel that use a single hose will have up to 1 or 2 gallons of whatever the last use was in the hose system! You may think you are getting ethanol free, but it may not be the case. I always pump a few gallons into vehicle tank and then fill up smaller containers. Chickanic does a good video on this.
I buy ethanol-free fuel all the time for my small engines. Never thought to do this. Will be doing this moving forward.
I’ve never been to a gas station with ethanol free that shared a hose. They are always separate where I’m at. I don’t know why any station wouldn’t be like this.
Love your videos man keep it up
@@asphaltspecialtiessame…….a separate hose.
I had an oak limb, about 5 inches wide, snap out of the top of a tree that I was cutting. I didn't even have enough time to move, so I tried to duck my head down and reduce the chance of getting an even worse injury. It caught the side of my head, right behind my ear, as well as my shoulder and across my back. I walked away from it with my head and right shoulder ripped open and a damaged muscle in my back. If I had a helmet, I wouldn't have had a gash on my head, and if I had been paying closer attention, I probably wouldn't have been in that situation to begin with. PPE and situational awareness are two of the most important things no matter what you're doing.
We lost Jed from a falling piece of tree. 😢
PPE=Personal Protective Equipment, I had to Google it. Don't judge me.
That's why wise fellers wear a helmet w/ears and face shield. Nothing is learned from a mule's second kick.
@yungsmile7546 I've got one now. I wish I had gotten it sooner, but I'm glad I finally have one.
@@cmm0606-s2gThere's not judgement among tree fellers, surely? At least not unless it's other tree fellers you injured then there's a forest load!😅😂
Hi. This is one of the best basic chainsaw orientations and basic chainsaw safety training videos on RUclips. When you were reading your raker depth guage you were reading it as "point two-five". It actually reads .025 which means the top of the raker is 25 thousandths of an inch below the top of each cutting tooth when the chain is properly sharpened. This provides ideal chips when cutting. Your more extensive video on this subject is equally good. Thank you very much. They are extremely helpful.
This video should come with every new homeowner chainsaw.
Great information for the new chainsaw owner.
Thanks 👍
Ol' Chainsaw Gramma here...have both Stihl and a Husqvarna. One thing I do after warming up a saw that I think is ready to go, is I put down a little chunk of cleanish cardboard or some newspaper and full throttle the saw blade over it. If your oiler is working properly, there should be an oil streak on the paper showing that your oiler is indeed oiling the blade and not plugged up. Beats finding that your blade is hot when you're in the thick of cutting.
When it's flooded and you hold it wide open it will start because your introducing a huge volume of air to rectify the issue of having too much fuel. Great video !
Thank you very much for making this video. I just got back from North Carolina volunteering for tree removal after hurricane Helene and this information helped a lot. Much appreciated
Well done, I was wondering about the legality of doing precisely that! Did you get paid or was it voluntary and if so was it organised or did you just go there and randomly hack into trees to help clear up? We're you alone, go alone? Did you ask people if they wanted their trees cut down or just do it as they weren't there to ask, or did you only cut those trees blocking roads or that you perceived as a danger? What about telegraph poles blocking roads that emergency vehicles of people trying to leave or get back to their home would be stopped by?
Let's hear it, I'd love to know.
Great job teaching the new kids out there. Not everyone uses these things. You, sir, are a recognized expert in you field, and the people who watch this video are getting sound advice.
I appreciate that!
My pleasure sir.@@GuiltyofTreeson
A tip for fueling up: use a small brush to clear debris from the cap areas. A laundry detergent bottle with a pour spout will make filling up the oil tank easier.
For most homeowners looking to purchase a saw to use a few days per year, I recommend getting a battery saw. Milwaukee, Dewalt, Makita, or whatever brand you might already have is a good choice. Avoid the super cheap knockoff brands or used saws from a stranger. What might seem like a good deal will likely lead to a lot of frustration later.
The tip for starting a flooded saw was more than worth my time watching a bunch of stuff that I thought I already knew. Thank you, Jacob.
Great job teaching. I learned from my dad alot as he was a logger in the ex Yugoslav company using old Tomos - Husqvarna 770. Now im operating the same saw 30 years later. Your video teached me how to use the saw safer. Cheers from Slovenia 🍻
Just a quick tip on the ethanol free fuel. If someone used that pump before you, the hose could be full of ethanol fuel. I always put a gallon in my car before filling the gas cans.
Thanks for the tip!
Does everything pump through the one hose in USA? We have different hoses for different octanes and deisel here
@@dad_uchiha1707
Some places do pump ethanol fuel and non-ethanol fuel through the same hose & nozzle. Some places have dedicated nozzles for the non-ethanol fuel. You have to keep an eye out for this. If they do use the same nozzle, it is a good idea to pump the first gallon or so, into your car first, then fill the gas can that you use for the saw. You never know what grade of fuel the person before you put into their car, and the hose and switchover valve inside the pump might be, most likely, filled with ethanol fuel.
@@warped2875 very interesting
Luckily my go to gas station has its own hose for ethenol free gas.
Great video. I’ve been cutting firewood for 35 years and still learned something new. Keep up the good work and happy upcoming holidays.
Thank you, newbe here. I bought a small one a Lowes. The fella recommended to watch a vid before using. WOW, so glad I did. Not falling trees just cutting branches, 2" diameter ones for fire wood. Very good, sent to my email so I can watch it whenever I need. Still winter here in Alaska, but preparing.
Don't work with bare feet, with slippy footwear, nor dirty gloves that get dirty and wet from wet wood, all very dangerous. Are feet because of electric shock, slippage, and dropping. Not too many people hold on to an active chainsaw when a Oak log has just separated three of their toes from where they should be. 😖😳🤯
Very good tutorial! Thanks! I have the 455 Rancher myself. Just bought two new Oregon chains for it today. It's nice to see a tutorial using the exact equipment I have!
I like the 455 Rancher. I also looked at the 460, but it's heavier and i didn't really need the 24" bar it comes with. I bought the 455 because I had to cut up a big fallen oak and a big pine that it knocked over when it came down after it was struck by lightning last summer. Both trees ended up lying right across my long driveway through the woods. I didn't even know it had happened, but my wife called me when she came home and found that the driveway now disappeared into those big fallen trees! I got a lot of firewood from them, but it was most of a week of work for me to cut everything up and stack all of the wood and clean up the area. I needed the exercise anyway!
I have been watching lots of wood cutting /splitting videos for many years including yours from your previous chanel to now, here in the UK and cutting and processing my own wood for 11 years. I have never commented on any of them, as much as I enjoyed them, but I have to say that even though I feel I know a lot, I learned something useful from every stage of this video. Great for all levels of experience. Well done, a great recourse for the wood cutting community!
The rakes are strange looking because it is a safety chain. They are normally included on home owner chainsaws so you have to tell them you want a real chain not the safety chain. The safety chain cuts a lot slower because it takes a smaller chip but it is also a lot harder to get kick back so it is safer. I didn't know about the safety chains once and ended up with one. I took the chainsaw back because it cut so poorly. He told me about the chains and I bought a good one. Kept the safety chain for an emergency backup but have never put it back on. Love your videos.
I used a sharpie and marked 2 lines on my bar from the tip to 16 and one for 18 inches, then i can just walk along the log and use the tip to mark where to cut, works pretty slick!
Seems to me professionals must know what they're doing for their particular needs and circumstances.
Now that we know how to use a saw, teach us how to Climb! Mad respect to You and how efficient You are when climbing.
Thanks and that’s a good idea 👍
Okay first you chock the wheels of the bucket truck.
Great idea, go over basic climbing gear and how to climb with spikes and a flip line. I’d watch.
@@jonanderson4474
Then just cherry-pick! 😂
@@davidriddle2891Me too!
You just produced the best chainsaw video on RUclips! Great stuff as always Jake. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Dad always said youre never done learning until you're 5 feet under. I always allreciate watching these because i feel you can always learn something new!
Well they don't say "you live, you learn" for nothing.
IF YOUR A HOMEOWNER CHAIN SAWER - THIS IS A HIGHLY RECOMENDED SAFTEY TRAINING VIDEO !!!
Having worked in industry for years, I have seen a lot of Safety training videos. I would like to thank you very much for this video. I just bought a new chain saw. Although I have used chains saws over the years occasional , I'm no seasoned pro. I liked your video because It felt like I was taking an effective re-occurring safety training that just might keep from getting hurt. Once again Thank you very much for this "REQUIRED" safety training for the chainsaw newbie. Appreciate it brother
I’m a homeowner with a decent amount of experience using a saw but I still watch these videos to learn something. I’ve had a saw kickback a few times but didn’t know exactly why till this. Always good to learn more or at least remind yourself how to be safe.
@@asphaltspecialtieskickback can be real scary if your not prepared
@@Ryan-fosho
Yes, or even deadly, or just maiming!
Those rakers are for kick back reduction, probably a kind of fail safe built into these home owner semi pro style saws as not seen in the xp style saws which I would then assume the operator is of higher skill level.
Would be good to try a regular chain versus this one in the video and try the kick back test again and see any difference
If you hear someone admit that they're wrong (tension in the lay-down) you know they're worth listening to. Great vid!
That is a great video to learn how to own/operate a chainsaw. Thank you for teaching and helping to reiterate how to properly use a chainsaw. One thing beginners need to know on saws especially stihl saws is that when you put it at half choke the saw is going to be running at a high rpm and it only takes 30 seconds at full throttle to destroy a chain break so when the saw starts to rev on half choke immediately blip the throttle so that the rpms go down. This is one of the best beginner tutorials out there in my opinion.
Please explain what it means blip the throttle
It just means to press it in quickly. This will make the choke on stihl saws go to the run position. It will also bring the saw rpm’s down to idle
3:38 as watching wondering why you don’t recommend canned pre-mix? A local dealer extends warranty if customers use it? And why not recommend biodegradable bar oil?
I no longer own a chainsaw. I am so physically broken I have a hard time just trying to grocery shop. I'll probably never cut another tree down before I leave this world. Am I going to watch a 1:18:50 chainsaw tutorial video? Absolutely. Plus, I'm gonna like it before I watch it. I know I'm gonna like it but also know I'll forget to hit the like button. Keep doing what you're doing.
I said a prayer asking for you to feel better. What happened to you?
God bless you!
@@michaelboyle1983
Your message was ambiguous, it might be perceived in two ways; one of them a warning, one just to say you're elderly or ill, or both, but that you used to love tree felling/falling (U.S.) that much that you'll still watch a long show. My feeling is you had a related accident some time ago. Please share a little more if you feel so inclined. Well wishes to you.
@@r.martin3494 I believe you replied to me when you meant to ask those questions to the person who wrote the original comment. You could edit your comment if you want.
God bless you!
Very comprehensive tutorial and you covered all the important topics of the chainsaw. Nice job! I am a 50-year DIYer chainsawer and it seems I never quit learning about these awesome tools. Only thing I'd add is that I do exactly what you do for long term storage but I run engineered fuel thru it before putting it away (vs keeping it dry) . The engineered fuel lasts two years and keeps the diaphragms lubed. Be sure to buy the 50:1 mix. What kills fuel systems is not only ethanol (minor) but the benzene found in all gas station gas. Benzene is the major killer of fuel systems. Engineered fuel has little/no ethanol or benzene and will not wreck your fuel system. I run gas station fuel when operating the saw (lots cheaper) but store with engineered fuel.
As a woodturner I get access to quite a few logs from local tree surgeons. I need to cut them up to store to allow to dry. In have been using a small electric chain saw to chop smaller branches around 6 to 7 inches in diameter. I am moving up to larger bowls (15 inches diameter ) and as such now need a more powerful chainsaw and longer bar . I have just purchased a petrol chainsaw with 20 inch bar. But in respect of how dangerous it could be have embarked on a lot of video watching to educate myself on the correct and more importantly safe use before I start. I have viewed several videos on you tube but your video has provided so much comprehensive iniformation, instruction and guidance, delivered in an easy to understand way. I will refer back to it again and again in the future. Thank you for making such a superb video. It has helped a great deal.
I'm glad I learned from this video before jumping into using a chainsaw. I feel informed and prepared to not only cut effectively but, especially, to cut safely. The chapter on how to maintain the saw optimally is also very much appreciated. Great channel. Super helpful video. Thank you.
I always use the between the legs method for starting ever since I had a near brush with disaster drop starting.
And as we saw on one of his videos here, so did he!
I've been using a chainsaw for 25+ years. I want to say I learned from this video and will be using some of the information you supplied... I knew allot already but this video showed me about chainsaw sights(I didn't know of such a feature), it also helped me understand about compression and tension(will definitely help from getting my bar pinched). I picked up a few more tips as well but wanted to point out the two major important lessons learned. Thank you Sir. Amazingly informative video.
Accidents!
I young fella I knew had an Oak limb fall and couldn't get up.
The prosthetic was after he slipped squeezed th trigger on the chainsaw and without getting too gorey, lets just say he leaves trackers in the forest, stumped!
I highly recommend to viewers to also watch the video "world's best tree felling tutorial, 8 ways to fell a tree".
I watched a lot of videos on chainsaws and how to fell trees but the amount of knowledge and skills level that you have is truly impressive. As a viewer, you're really learning from a professional. Keep up the good work brother. 👍
Here in the Netherlands we use Aspen 2 stroke fuel for chainsaws and garden tools. because it is already 50:1 fuel and you can keep it in your tank for a long time without any problems.
Not all of us 😊, I use the blue stihl stuff and 98😂
@@cdb6010 where do you live? Also in the Netherlands?
Great information! As someone that never attempted felling a tree, you shared some valuable information. For those that comment what you “didnt” cover, they gave me more to look up about more details. Keep making these videos, you speak with humility and great knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!
This was so helpful. Explained every problem I've had as a rank beginner. Using a chainsaw went from frustrating to so smooth. Thank you!
being an old amateur, I had a great time reliving the bad habits I have, and learned a couple of new tips to keep me safe. Rock on!!
Thank you SO much. I just bought an electric chainsaw and being a total noob went looking for help - so glad I found this - ex teacher here and I give 10/10 for presentation. The tip about the dirt is really helpful. Thanks again from my side of the pond ! 👍👍😝
I'm a new homeowner in a wooded area. This video was very informative. I Lost my dad a year ago and he was a chainsaw/wood guy. So I have his husqavarna chainsaws. One this size and 1 bigger. Watching this video made me alot more confident. I wouldn't dare taking on a big tree like you did in this video without my uncle around. But I recently got the milwakuee fuel m18 hatchet which I'm much more comfortable with to use on the smaller trees in my yard until I get more comfortable using the heavier machines.
I'm getting to be an old guy and have been cutting firewood my whole life. I still learned a lot from you - maybe I have been doing it wrong the entire time. Thank you for the great attitude. You should know that some of us also laugh at ourselves.
I have been cuting for years and find the video to be very accurate andcompresive. GOOD JOB.
Great tutorial. I’m definitely not a pro, but I’m not a beginner either, and I learned a lot from this. I especially liked the maintenance portion. Thanks Jacob!
Thank you for the very very good basics refresher! Been a few years and lots of yelling at home at youtuber fellers drop starting without telling people that its dangerous🤦♀️. Youve done a top rate job!
Truth be told I have to thank you for your video's as cutting down very large standing dry oaks has always been very sketchy for me, but through your video's I have learned how to aim, different cut's, how the hinge works and the importance of wedges when felling. I wanted that 455 rancher, but it was not available when I needed a saw so I purchased the 460 as that was the only Husqvarna available at that time without having to wait. A good saw just a little large and heavier when beginning. Thanks again.
I’ve run a chain saw since I was 9 years old! I’m not a pro now nor will I ever be and I’m certainly never gonna be a climber but brother I’ll tell ya this was very informative! I cut firewood with my dad each fall! I’m grateful for the info! Keep doing what you’re doing!
Enjoying your videos. I actually have the 450 Rancher . I have used it a lot over the last year. I have been clearing out the down and leaning trees in my woods or bush as some call it. It has been over 20 years since it had last been done. At least 15 trees so far and a lot more to go.
On the choke, when you pull it out, that is full choke. When you push it in is half choke, and pulling the trigger closes the choke. So the high idle is from the half choke. Great info and super easy to understand. Even having been an avid chainsaw guy but being completely self taught, it’s nice to learn something from the pros!!!
Love the video, you did a great job discussing the subject. I didn’t realize I have ethanol free gas around me, I used to use premium with stabilizer. Thank you so much for what you do. Great for us armchair climbers.😊
Ethanol free is hard to find around the Pen in the Belfair area. Wish more stores offered ethanol free.
I have been told that if I have had to tighten the bar after it has been running for a while to make sure you loosen the bar when you are done an put it up. The reason you have to tighten the chain is because it has heated up and the metal has expanded. Once it cools down, the metal will shrink back down. If you don't loosen up the bar, it will get really tight and wear out your sprocket bearing faster.
I re-watch this and thank GOT for teaching me tension and compression in a way I didn't forget. Simple. Great tutorial.
One guick note on fuel as an ex stihl dealer. Your spot on about the ethanol in today's fuel but occtain does matter. Stihl recommends 92 or better . Also only fill your cans to premix ratio. Most gas cans hold more the stated amount
Also, adding any oil at all to fuel will reduce the octane by a point or two, per bottle. You can start with 91, but by your second mix bottle your octane might actually be 87-89. Use the highest non-ethanol octane available
Definitely a recommended watch for anyone from hobbyist to professional. Alot of small tips and tricks that aren't really taught and only can be picked up from on saw time and experience
I cut props with cross cut growing up. Got my first chainsaw when I was 14. Homesite zip! Cut timber being instructed by older West Virginia lumber jacks! Caution ! Soo many variables to consider ! Big timber ! Leaning and decaying trunks. Only a few !! Start small , observe, have a path of retreat! There is a reason for bigger professional saws especially in bigger timber ! Next lesson! Good job ! Keep it up!!
1:14:57
First video of yours I’ve ever watched. I conveniently bought my first saw two weeks ago and have little experience.. watched the whole video through and learned alot. Appreciate you taking the time to make this long of a video.
As a homeowner who is over-compensating with my 660... and battery operated climbing saws I thoroughly enjoyed this video and I will stop killing grass with my refueling...
I was about to do the same and pick up a big saw before a buddy talked me into a 180 then I found a 192t for cheap and use that little thing more than anything.
I find this video really helpful for starters. Im 15 and I think i need to learn a lot more but i have 2 very own chainsaws a 462c and a 661c they are great!
I dont work trees, but have worked a haunted house for over 10 years. For many of those I was the person in charge of maintaining the saws.
(Preface: this is simply my two cents) My start procedure is to hit the bulb until you feel it squirt, and squirt it more than 5 less than...idk 12? times. Youll get a feel for your saw, read the instructions, etc. Put it on the ground, put your foot in the handle, flip it on, pull the choke, hold the handle, grip the chord and give it 3 good tugs. If it doesnt 'burp' (it sounds like it tries to catch instead of just turns), push the choke into the half position (if the saw has it) and pull til its right up against the compression, then start ripping on the chord, good long strokes if it doesnt start after 5 pulls or so turn the choke off, and give it another round. Once it starts give it a few partial trigger gooses to get flow through the system, maybe a little ramp up, but avoid full throttle when cold. Let it sit idling for a few minutes, then goose it up, hit the rev limit, make sure its running smooth and right. And there ya go! You're saw is good to go. There will be a point if you let it sit too long (about 5 to 10min in my experience, granted we only run them a few minutes at a time) the vapor will dissipate and the heat wont get it in the air, and youll have to give it some good tugs to get her goin again. Worse comes to worse, put in on the ground, foot in, half choke and reef on it. Otherwise, you can just flick it on, grab the toggle hold it up do your belly and toss the saw down and away! The longer its been setting the more youll want to give it a tiny flick of the throttle. ......but if you actually have a chain BE CAREFUL!!! Machines do not think, care, or feel sorry. Its your job to stay safe. You are the only person ultimately responsible for your actions. Slow is safe, and safe is good. Use your brain.
The 'flooded' state our guy talks about is when too much raw fuel has entered the cylinder basically drowning the spark. By starting it wide open you're allowing A LOT of air in, and any fuel it pulls from the carb will atomize (remember, vapor burns, not liquid). So itll blow out the wet causing the spark plug to ground out, and help move any saturated air out, pulling in some better mixed air/fuel nice and atomized into the cylinder.
Remember not to run the saw off idle with the break on (Id even dare to say avoid idling it for a long time with the break on, but thats just me) you dont want to wear it out.
Again, BE SAFE!!! The first thing you should do above all is stop and THINK ABOUT WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!! Thats why safety is third. First is think, second is to plan and plan for what to do WHEN that goes wrong by thinking about what can go wrong (not if it goes wrong, WHEN it goes wrong), that will dictate your third step: SAFETY!!!! BE SAFE!!! Being cool aint as cool as being safe. The coolest guy on the site is the guy who still has all his fingers, or hasnt caused others to lose theirs by dicking around.
I appreciate how methodical and careful you are here. I’d be interested in a video: “things to look for to DEFINITELY call in the pros”
Hey there ive been using a saw for 6 to 7 years started when i was 13 14 years old theirs something to learn every day appreciate it man 👊
East coast weather is different. It's 1-1 with fuel and bar oil. I'll fuel up but deliberately give extra oil. I'll deal with a saw on empty before I have to fight with an oil starved saw
A cut above the rest. You really raised the bar with this tutorial. You managed to wedge so much information into a relatively short cut. Unfortunately I had to skip past all the stuff involving the bar because I'm a recovering alcoholic. I'm not gonna lie I was pretty chapped at first. It's hard to relax and kick back with all this bar talk flying past your head. I used to be clinically compressed but after watching your tutorial I realized I was just coming at it from the wrong angle. I've always been a bit tense but thanks to you I've learned to face the tension head on. I'll admit you got a bit pushy in the second half of the tutorial. Hey, you're human. We all hit the dirt at some point but just when it seemed that the tutorial was too dull to go on you hit us with some of the sharpest material yet.
I would have gladly paid for this training. I have been homestead cutting for a couple of years. Some of this I learned but the rest was much needed! Thanks...
thank you. I just acquired an old Husvarna and needed a tutorial. this one was very comprehensive without eing over done.
Bro how disrespected. 😂 Your viewers clearly have a clear and advanced understanding of chainsaws and tree work! We are youtube certified! Haha.
He literally said in the beginning for homeowners and younger generations getting into cutting.
@Dale.Nienow This is my and I am insulted! I have been youtube certified for a whole 3 months! I have bought my Chinese WEMARS 6220g, and ryobi 40v top handle. I am a certified pro-fessionAL. 😂 Nah, this is actually really cool. This is probably the best how to videos for chainsaws. I had to look up a bunch of different videos when I learned how to use a chainsaw and take down trees. I've only taken down one big(18inch) one so far, but a lot of smaller ones(4inch).
@@Agustin-jo8mvthanks man 👊
@@GuiltyofTreeson You've taught us all so much! Haha. Thank you!
Very good video.. you are very good to explain….
you never thought about teaching your profession at arborist school (I don’t know what this course is called in 🇺🇸) lol
Thanks for the dirt demonstration. Would NOT have thought it would have dulled it that fast.
I've only seen one other "How To"... and this video is Hands THE BEST.
You covered absolutely everything that someone should know about using a chainsaw!!
Great video
Best cheinsaw video I've ever seen. One thing I've always done is put the oil in can before the petrol (gas) as it's easy to forget if you put in oil afterwards. It also mixes the oil and petrol when filling.
Nicely done.
It’s something I can give to my groundies for training before hands on training.
Thanks for taking the time out to explain the great information on the basics of how to get started and the do and don't! It was very helpful!
Great video Jake, way to put a guy down 😂 the 455 is my big saw.
Very well done. Really first rate info, and your sense of humor (whimsy) is contageous.
I have an old Husky 55 (1999) that still runs like a champ. It's punched way above its weight and I joke (or am I joking?) that I want to be burried with it. Starts right up and bingo, I'm in business.
The only thing I think you might have covered is that the cutters are generally sharpened with the bar pointed in opposite directions so you file towards the cutting edge of the cutter.
Oh. Nitpicking, but the raker file gauge you demonstrated was .025, not .25.
I really appreciate this video! I’m starting my own business in tree removal and just got a big boy saw and started taking some bigger jobs but I didn’t really have much experience in felling larger trees
have my first time cutting trees comming up next week so this gives a little confidens boost!
I have ran ethanol premium gas in my chainsaws and trimmers for decades without any issues. I just add stabilizer to my 5 gallon container of gas, and then mix a gallon at a time. I have found the vegetable based bar oil to be very thin, and gets used up very fast.
I cut alot of wood per year cause I burn wood for heat in michigan and this is the best vedio I have seen to help me cut and sharpen my saw, for sure
As an East Coast guy, I put full wraps on my 562 and 585 and they are game changers. Much love to you from North Carolina 🤙. Great stuff. Although I have been running saws for many years, I still enjoy watching videos like this to learn as much as I can. Be careful out there 😉🫡 .
I had a close call with my 585 with a 32” bar and I went straight to get a pair of chaps. $125 is way cheaper than a hospital bill. I also wear steel toe boots as well. Great advice all around 🤙🤙
Very good tutorial, I learnt a lot, despite reading the instuction manual that came with my mains electric, listening and watching your tutorial was much better. I am new to chain saws and will not be using one much , hence the mains electric. One thing you didn't cover was the direction of the chain when fitting one for the first time. I think I asked the question on U-tube and it took me to a short film on that. It is obviously second nature for you and people working in the industry, but not for home owners initially.
Thanks again for a very informative video. David from England.
I have been watching how you go about doing your chainsaw routine. We both like to spill gas and don't use a funnel for chain oil.Great beginner instruction.
This video was great! I literally knew almost nothing before cutting down my first tree. And not much more before buying my first saw (out of necessity: big tree fell over in a windstorm mostly blocking my front door). But, one day i found your old channel and have learned so much more! I actually went out to buy wedges! Previously i was using small sticks in the back cut to prevent the tree from pinching my bar... But i was also cutting all the way through the hinge. I cut much more cautious now and use my wedges... I still need to get a decent axe, but it's on my list with some chaps. I actually barely knicked a pair of jeans once 🙀
This video was extremely helpful and educational. Thank you for your time, effort and sharing…..
100% AGREE ETHANOL FREE Gasoline ONLY in ALL of my SMALL ENGINES! And I use the oil mix with fuel stabilizer, and I have never had a fuel problem.
Excellent video. A true complete guide to how to use a chainsaw.
We have a little over 100 acres of forest as a side hustle but we've always let a company do the lumbering. But now I got a little interested in doing some hobby felling.
Great intro tutorial! I will sign up for a professional course to get the hang of it in practice.
A saw is "flooded" when the fuel-air ratio in the cylinder exceeds the combustion range (not enough air/oxygen to burn the fuel). When unflooding, holding the throttle works because at full throttle the carburetor lets in more air in than at Idle, Leaning the over-rich condition back out into the combustion range.
I'm using a chainsaw for years, you showed me many things I forgot, thanks for sharing.
I bought rainforest property and now almost have basic experience; including stepping on bee hives.
Thanks for the video, helps me a lot.
This video was incredibly helpful, but i would've loved a short touch up on carburetor adjustment with elevation change and environmental variables. Thank you for making such a helpful video!
Could you do a video for tips and tricks to cutting small trees? Under 16" diameter
Your raker gauge is .025, or 25 hundredths. That is how much lower the raker is from the cutting tooth. In your case, you are filing your rakers down .025 lower than your cutters. So that means it will take off .025 of wood each time the cutter hits the wood.
I can appreciate how it’s hard for you to make the kickback look as dangerous as it is, since you know it’s coming and you know how to hold the saw to absorb it.
For gas, I always put a few gallons in the truck to get the non-ethanol out of hose. A ratio rite and quarts or gallons of mix are much much cheaper than the pre-measure. Gordy sells ratio rites.
I've always been iffy on plunge cuts. Thank you guilty truly thank you! That little tip is a huge huge help
The point about letting saws warm up before use is critical. Particularly if you are interested in getting long and useful lives out of your saws. The basic gist is that the piston is usually made of a lighter weight alloy material than what the cylinder head is cast from and, when you start a saw and immediately give it the beans without letting it warm up from idle, the piston will expand in size at a faster rate than than the cylinder head, which results in the piston expanding to a point where it will begin scoring itself and the cylinder walls; the rapid expansion of the piston can also cause the rings to seize as well. I worked on an MS 462 Magnum recently which had this happen so badly that chunks of ring material managed to embed themselves in the piston.
One other comment I might make from the section on saw starting - you showed a few shots of the saw sitting on the ground idling and warming up. Depending on your region and usual climate, this might not be a problem, but where I live in Montana this can pose a significant fire risk if the muffler happens to be in front of or near flammable brush. Same goes for when you shut the saw off and set it down with a hot muffler or bar & chain. Of course, too, if the fire danger reaches a certain level, the saws may need to just be put away completely.
I service and sell STIHL chainsaws for a living, and do plenty of logging in my spare time as a hobby and side gig. Love your videos, keep it up
Thanks dude! I started using the chainsaw a few months ago, and I learned so much from watching your videos. You seem like a cool dude as well, all the best