I've said it before, and i will say it again. You're doing a great job here, you're saving this car and protecting its future. Keep going, I look forward to the next instalment.
Good work, especially if this is one of your first times as you say. Couple of things I would say about prepping parts for painting. First off, if you can, just pay to have it grit blasted- it will do a better job and is really the only surface to which paint will properly adhere. You may need to have it blasted twice as rust will start growing after the first time for when it was not properly removed. Second, I find those large format wire wheels to be effective at polishing the surface and not necessarily removing rust. In my experience, I have found a Norton 50 mm wire wheel attached to a drill or preferably a die grinder to be more effective and allow you to reach into smaller spaces. However they don't last long so you would need a few for your job. To supplement this I would use a 6mm spindle mounted flapper wheel which is very effective at removing rust, and I have also found that brushing the edge of a Dremel cutting wheel (larger 32 mm black ones) against pitting and thick rust that does not come off with a wire brush will shatter it off as dust. Third, I don't think petrol is a very good degreaser- as in, it probably leaves a residue. You can test this by putting some on blue paper towel. If it evaporates to leave no trace then all good, but if the paper towel is dark and oily, then it is not good. I use panel wipe, or IPA or a mixture of both. I've tested those on blue paper towel and no residue. I also tested white spirit and it left a residue. Fourth, rust converters are generally not that effective. Better than nothing but rust will always come back. It would be better to apply the rust converter then sand off the latex so at least the paint will stick. Finally, epoxy primer is the best and most effective, and has the greatest chance of delaying the rust from creeping back through. If all else fails then just wire brush corroded metal and spray with anti-corrosion wax!
Wow wow thank you soo much for your comment. This comment take effort and time to write. As I said this is my first project ever and I learn as long as I work on this car. I hope I did not disappoint with what I do, but now you make me a bit worried about what I do if is all good or I do it completely wrong, I don’t want to see the rust back in one week. I know that the method of sand blasting is the best but I don’t have the money for it to pay someone to do it for me and I don’t have the money to buy blaster. But trust me I already look in to blaster option and I will love to buy one but I don’t have the money right now. I was always ok with petrol what I do with petrol I take old towel and poor the petrol on it, then I wipe the object that I did clean from rust straight after the wheel brush. Then I let it evaporate then I take clean towel and wipe the whole object with clean towel to make sure nothing is on it and is ready for rust converter or Primer. I have to look in to the wheel brushes you mentioned because I don’t have clue and I did not know there is massive difference. Do you think the primer I use is bad ? I do use primer with zinc. Exactly what I use is UPOL ACID 8, Acid Etch Primer. Is that any good or I have been mislead? Do you think all what I done is waste of time? Just asking because you will have better knowledge and experience. I just try my best right now what is available for me. Btw I appreciate your comment a lot the knowledge and experience you try to share with me is amazing. Thank you so much 🙂🔥❤️
@@MiroGT No problem. I just saw how much effort you put into your work and I have been learning for years about how to deal with corrosion and have some experience from trying to fight it under my 2005 Citroen Relay camper. You have done a very good job, but rust is particularly hard to fight. If you get 3-5 years out of what you've done, you are doing well. In my experience, underbody parts can be difficult to keep rust at bay however the same treatment on sills and arches has worked well for me. In my case, I used Bilt Hamber zinc primer (which I've also started using as a weld through primer, although I always scrape it away where I am actually welding), epoxy mastic and a rubbery paint on top then the vehicle's polyurethane paint. For the underbody, this did not last, but for the sills and arches, it is looking the same after 5 years. However, if I want to start removing the paint- this will not be very difficult because the adhesion between the zinc primer and the coats on top is poor. I also don't think I helped matters by using petrol as a degreaser (because the zinc primer has not stuck that well to the steel). My concern is that although petrol does evaporate, it does/may leave a residue. You will never hear of a bodyshop using petrol- they use panel wipe (which is admittedly a short chain hydrocarbon). In my case, I've blended UPOL Fast Dry, Slow Dry, and IPA in 1:1:1 proportions but that is just my formula that I don't necessarily have a lot of basis for- I was just trying to make a strong degreaser that I can use as a brake cleaner as well. The polishing effect of wire brushes was just my experience. Others online have said the same though. Noted about you trying to get a blaster. This stuff is expensive. I don't have one as it happens. I think the primer you are using is about perfect in many respects. The acid etches into the metal to create a porous microstructure that helps adhesion. Where you may fall down is that you used it over a rust converter. I have not found such a product but my preference would be for a rust converter WITHOUT the latex. If you think about it logically, the paint system is only as good as what bonds to the substrate. The rust converter will stick, but it's obviously not the best you can get. I would personally sand the rust converter then paint! Or maybe don't use it at all. What I will say is 2k epoxy paint is supposed be the best option for slightly rusty surfaces. Not as good as fresh steel, but if you used the epoxy followed by a PU top coat, you should be in a good position. Zinc is undoubtedly the best corrosion prevention but it needs to stick to the metal. Ideally it would be a blasted surface, but you have to sand the area as a minimum (this applies to all paints really although you need to be particularly careful with high zinc coatings). This is why it might be better to just skip the zinc primer and go for the epoxy. BTW, I don't think your UPOL primer contains zinc. I'll leave it here with my essay and best of luck!
@@jamespearson7661 I will paint the sway bar. But I did not do the steering rack. I fixed the steering rack a bit. Maybe in the future but now I will leave it as it is. Thank you so much
@@MrJKS1000 I wear them all night in work. I am ok with my crocks 😂 I do sometimes wear them but it’s difficult to work in them sometimes. But you are right 100%.
I've said it before, and i will say it again. You're doing a great job here, you're saving this car and protecting its future. Keep going, I look forward to the next instalment.
Thank you man. It’s going slow but moving forward.
Good work, especially if this is one of your first times as you say.
Couple of things I would say about prepping parts for painting. First off, if you can, just pay to have it grit blasted- it will do a better job and is really the only surface to which paint will properly adhere. You may need to have it blasted twice as rust will start growing after the first time for when it was not properly removed.
Second, I find those large format wire wheels to be effective at polishing the surface and not necessarily removing rust. In my experience, I have found a Norton 50 mm wire wheel attached to a drill or preferably a die grinder to be more effective and allow you to reach into smaller spaces. However they don't last long so you would need a few for your job. To supplement this I would use a 6mm spindle mounted flapper wheel which is very effective at removing rust, and I have also found that brushing the edge of a Dremel cutting wheel (larger 32 mm black ones) against pitting and thick rust that does not come off with a wire brush will shatter it off as dust.
Third, I don't think petrol is a very good degreaser- as in, it probably leaves a residue. You can test this by putting some on blue paper towel. If it evaporates to leave no trace then all good, but if the paper towel is dark and oily, then it is not good. I use panel wipe, or IPA or a mixture of both. I've tested those on blue paper towel and no residue. I also tested white spirit and it left a residue.
Fourth, rust converters are generally not that effective. Better than nothing but rust will always come back. It would be better to apply the rust converter then sand off the latex so at least the paint will stick.
Finally, epoxy primer is the best and most effective, and has the greatest chance of delaying the rust from creeping back through.
If all else fails then just wire brush corroded metal and spray with anti-corrosion wax!
Wow wow thank you soo much for your comment. This comment take effort and time to write. As I said this is my first project ever and I learn as long as I work on this car.
I hope I did not disappoint with what I do, but now you make me a bit worried about what I do if is all good or I do it completely wrong, I don’t want to see the rust back in one week.
I know that the method of sand blasting is the best but I don’t have the money for it to pay someone to do it for me and I don’t have the money to buy blaster. But trust me I already look in to blaster option and I will love to buy one but I don’t have the money right now.
I was always ok with petrol what I do with petrol I take old towel and poor the petrol on it, then I wipe the object that I did clean from rust straight after the wheel brush. Then I let it evaporate then I take clean towel and wipe the whole object with clean towel to make sure nothing is on it and is ready for rust converter or Primer.
I have to look in to the wheel brushes you mentioned because I don’t have clue and I did not know there is massive difference.
Do you think the primer I use is bad ? I do use primer with zinc. Exactly what I use is UPOL ACID 8, Acid Etch Primer. Is that any good or I have been mislead?
Do you think all what I done is waste of time? Just asking because you will have better knowledge and experience.
I just try my best right now what is available for me.
Btw I appreciate your comment a lot the knowledge and experience you try to share with me is amazing.
Thank you so much 🙂🔥❤️
@@MiroGT No problem. I just saw how much effort you put into your work and I have been learning for years about how to deal with corrosion and have some experience from trying to fight it under my 2005 Citroen Relay camper.
You have done a very good job, but rust is particularly hard to fight. If you get 3-5 years out of what you've done, you are doing well. In my experience, underbody parts can be difficult to keep rust at bay however the same treatment on sills and arches has worked well for me. In my case, I used Bilt Hamber zinc primer (which I've also started using as a weld through primer, although I always scrape it away where I am actually welding), epoxy mastic and a rubbery paint on top then the vehicle's polyurethane paint. For the underbody, this did not last, but for the sills and arches, it is looking the same after 5 years. However, if I want to start removing the paint- this will not be very difficult because the adhesion between the zinc primer and the coats on top is poor. I also don't think I helped matters by using petrol as a degreaser (because the zinc primer has not stuck that well to the steel). My concern is that although petrol does evaporate, it does/may leave a residue. You will never hear of a bodyshop using petrol- they use panel wipe (which is admittedly a short chain hydrocarbon). In my case, I've blended UPOL Fast Dry, Slow Dry, and IPA in 1:1:1 proportions but that is just my formula that I don't necessarily have a lot of basis for- I was just trying to make a strong degreaser that I can use as a brake cleaner as well.
The polishing effect of wire brushes was just my experience. Others online have said the same though.
Noted about you trying to get a blaster. This stuff is expensive. I don't have one as it happens.
I think the primer you are using is about perfect in many respects. The acid etches into the metal to create a porous microstructure that helps adhesion. Where you may fall down is that you used it over a rust converter. I have not found such a product but my preference would be for a rust converter WITHOUT the latex. If you think about it logically, the paint system is only as good as what bonds to the substrate. The rust converter will stick, but it's obviously not the best you can get. I would personally sand the rust converter then paint! Or maybe don't use it at all.
What I will say is 2k epoxy paint is supposed be the best option for slightly rusty surfaces. Not as good as fresh steel, but if you used the epoxy followed by a PU top coat, you should be in a good position.
Zinc is undoubtedly the best corrosion prevention but it needs to stick to the metal. Ideally it would be a blasted surface, but you have to sand the area as a minimum (this applies to all paints really although you need to be particularly careful with high zinc coatings). This is why it might be better to just skip the zinc primer and go for the epoxy. BTW, I don't think your UPOL primer contains zinc.
I'll leave it here with my essay and best of luck!
Health and safety gone out the window buddy lol 😂
@@projectastra1277 I am not company 😂 but the grinder is danger tool.
With the singing at the end ,you should release a single ,great vid m8
If I take it serious I could 😂 but I can’t sing 🎤 I should go to British got talent 😂 thank you man
Very nice man! It's getting more and more exciting each time you share more progress! 🤘
@@cradledf thank you so much🙂 it’s as well getting more and more expensive 😂
@@MiroGT lol i can imagine, and a bit more dangerous too it seems 🤣
@@cradledf that’s the price I pay 😂
Great work 👍
Thank you 🙂
Great work mate, I would have cleaned up & painted the steering rack too. I'm presuming your going to do the same for sway bar?
@@jamespearson7661 I will paint the sway bar. But I did not do the steering rack. I fixed the steering rack a bit. Maybe in the future but now I will leave it as it is. Thank you so much
ppe bro, would love to see u put it together
What kind of PPE? You mean put the whole car together?
@@MiroGT personal protection equipment. like steal toe boots
@@MrJKS1000 I wear them all night in work. I am ok with my crocks 😂 I do sometimes wear them but it’s difficult to work in them sometimes. But you are right 100%.