Excellent video. Really helpful. Please consider adding videos for differential, transfer case and brake fluid flush for an 05 Highlander. Again, many thanks. Sam
Thank you for your professional video. What is thickness of rotor we have to replace the new one? I saw you used a bolt to remove rotor. What is bolt diameter? I didn't hear it clear in video.
I would add that even buying new rotors (instead of turning them) is still only about $100 for a pair of rotors and a set of pads... verses $400 at a garage.. so for those without a turning machine, just buy new rotors... they will work better and last longer anyway.
I've never had an issue without using the blue thread-locker. Using may likely cause them to be a bear when attempting next removal. I find using a dab (on bolts) of copper anti seize works better. I also clean the face of the hub and coat it with copper anti seize prior to placement of the new (or old turned rotors). This prevents rotor & hub assembly from rusting to one another.
J. Floyd we all have products that we love and trust and of course I recommend this product. Blue thread locker is the product of my choice and that's what I recommend. I'd rather have a slightly tough time getting the ball back off in the case of of a second repair then have a ball back off and cause a major problem. I do occasionally use anti-seize but I'm not a big believer in the product. I've had more problems with it then it's fixed.
J. Floyd i'm not having a backing off issue I'm just preventing an issue. But I agree if it is backing off there is a problem like stretched balls or something.
slowga slo as long as you get them good and tight most likely nothing will happen. The key is to not over Torque the bolts. That stretches the bolts and under load could cause them to break.
I took my car to the toyota dealer and was told by those suckers that i need to replace the rear brake caliper bracket and those 2 bolts....my question is...if i brought my toyota for an oil change how they came out with that diagnosis.??...by the way they want to charge me almost $400 for parts amd labor
miguel franco i'm not sure why they would be removing bolts unless there was a warranty issue or if you asked them to. The only other thing I can think of is if you're in the area that has lots of rust.
I live in los angeles...no rust at all.. This dealer is know for suggesting repairs your car dont even need...but after watching your video i will replace my own brake pads and check for any other damage..thanks
No it’s not, that holds the wheel bearing, the rotor is AROUND the cylinder that contains the star shaped cap (that has a pin though it). You do not want to remove the pin or the star shaped cap unless you are servicing the wheel bearings. The rotor is not held on by anything on the 2003 highlander, but it may need to be whacked a few times with a hammer to break the rust off...AND you must disengage the parking brake or it will never come off!!! Make sure car is in park and wheel blocks on front wheels are used to stop car movement !
Excellent video!! Bolt size and torque spec included. Several very good tips and tricks!!
Likely the best how to video I’ve seen! Great job!
Excellent video. Really helpful. Please consider adding videos for differential, transfer case and brake fluid flush for an 05 Highlander. Again, many thanks. Sam
Sam Julier when they come in the shop I will definitely film them and post them up. Thank you for watching
Thank you for your professional video. What is thickness of rotor we have to replace the new one? I saw you used a bolt to remove rotor. What is bolt diameter? I didn't hear it clear in video.
Perfect video, thanks for your efforts
Good video Brian !
Thank you for watching !
Great professional job. Thanks a lot for the video.
Thank you for watching!
I would add that even buying new rotors (instead of turning them) is still only about $100 for a pair of rotors and a set of pads... verses $400 at a garage.. so for those without a turning machine, just buy new rotors... they will work better and last longer anyway.
I've never had an issue without using the blue thread-locker. Using may likely cause them to be a bear when attempting next removal. I find using a dab (on bolts) of copper anti seize works better. I also clean the face of the hub and coat it with copper anti seize prior to placement of the new (or old turned rotors). This prevents rotor & hub assembly from rusting to one another.
J. Floyd we all have products that we love and trust and of course I recommend this product. Blue thread locker is the product of my choice and that's what I recommend. I'd rather have a slightly tough time getting the ball back off in the case of of a second repair then have a ball back off and cause a major problem. I do occasionally use anti-seize but I'm not a big believer in the product. I've had more problems with it then it's fixed.
If torqued to spec backing off should never occur. If it's backing off after torque you have another issue...stretched bolt and/or doinked threads.
J. Floyd i'm not having a backing off issue I'm just preventing an issue. But I agree if it is backing off there is a problem like stretched balls or something.
I agree, avoid thread locker unless you plan to have an air-powered impact wrench to get them off next time!
Boogers out of kids noise!🤣😂lmao
What happens if you don't torque the bolts?
slowga slo as long as you get them good and tight most likely nothing will happen. The key is to not over Torque the bolts. That stretches the bolts and under load could cause them to break.
I took my car to the toyota dealer and was told by those suckers that i need to replace the rear brake caliper bracket and those 2 bolts....my question is...if i brought my toyota for an oil change how they came out with that diagnosis.??...by the way they want to charge me almost $400 for parts amd labor
miguel franco i'm not sure why they would be removing bolts unless there was a warranty issue or if you asked them to. The only other thing I can think of is if you're in the area that has lots of rust.
I live in los angeles...no rust at all..
This dealer is know for suggesting repairs your car dont even need...but after watching your video i will replace my own brake pads and check for any other damage..thanks
miguel franco sorry to hear the dealer is not up to par. Glad this video will help thank you for watching!
my rotor is held on by some weird ass star sharped thing in the middle?
No it’s not, that holds the wheel bearing, the rotor is AROUND the cylinder that contains the star shaped cap (that has a pin though it). You do not want to remove the pin or the star shaped cap unless you are servicing the wheel bearings. The rotor is not held on by anything on the 2003 highlander, but it may need to be whacked a few times with a hammer to break the rust off...AND you must disengage the parking brake or it will never come off!!! Make sure car is in park and wheel blocks on front wheels are used to stop car movement !