This is a bunch of good advice from somebody who clearly knows what he's doing, and has been doing it (right) for a while. The one thing I would have done differently is once you have the component tacked down by one pin, and have verified it's sitting correctly, then you should start soldering it *from the other end* first. If you continue with the pin right next to the first one, it's far too easy when you start soldering the second pin to accidentally touch the first one, melt the solder holding everything in place, and the whole thing goes wonky and you need to start over from the beginning again...
I suggest using flux liquid or paste, increase the iron temp to 350, use tip tinner periodically and add solder to the tip instead of cleaning it before putting away the iron. I would also tack the pin on the opposite end of the header strip in this case as well before soldering the middle pins.
I generally recommend that people new to soldering use a different temperature than those that have been doing it for a while: If you are just starting out, use a lower temperature, around 300 C. This will take longer to heat up the joint, but is less likely to accidentally fry something while you're futzing around getting your iron in just the right place, or you accidentally touch the wrong thing, or the solder somehow isn't flowing the way it should be, etc. (It will also take noticeably longer to melt though something important if you, for example, accidentally brush your iron against a live power cord or something.) Once you have some practice with soldering, and can reliably place the iron exactly where you want it, keep it there only as long as necessary, and then quickly remove it, and you're used to all the motions, etc, then bump up the temperature to 350 or 375 (or maybe even up to 400, if you're working with big wires, etc). But at the higher temperatures you should make sure that you do not hold the iron to the component for too long, as the heat can conduct through it to other more delicate parts much more quickly. You should be quickly applying the iron, applying the solder, waiting just long enough for it to flow into the joint, and then immediately removing it. (The "3 second rule" demonstrated in this video is fine at 300 C, but _way_ too long at 375.. Ideally, you should be aiming to have the entire time the iron is in contact with the joint, from start to finish, be only 2 seconds or so, IMHO.) (At the higher temperatures you should also always be using flux. This will help you flow the solder into the joint much quicker and more reliably so you don't need to spend as much time with the iron on it.) Contrary to what many people think, quickly soldering a joint with high temperature is actually _less_ likely to damage components than taking a long time at low temperature, but you do need to be confident enough in your soldering technique that you know you will be able to get it properly on and off the joint in the minimum amount of time. Using a high temperature but then taking too long futzing around with the iron heating the joint is the worst possible approach out of all of them, and the one most likely to actually damage things.
This is a bunch of good advice from somebody who clearly knows what he's doing, and has been doing it (right) for a while.
The one thing I would have done differently is once you have the component tacked down by one pin, and have verified it's sitting correctly, then you should start soldering it *from the other end* first. If you continue with the pin right next to the first one, it's far too easy when you start soldering the second pin to accidentally touch the first one, melt the solder holding everything in place, and the whole thing goes wonky and you need to start over from the beginning again...
I suggest using flux liquid or paste, increase the iron temp to 350, use tip tinner periodically and add solder to the tip instead of cleaning it before putting away the iron. I would also tack the pin on the opposite end of the header strip in this case as well before soldering the middle pins.
I usually go a bit past 350, depending on the composition of the solder. Lead free solders seem to need more heat.
I generally recommend that people new to soldering use a different temperature than those that have been doing it for a while:
If you are just starting out, use a lower temperature, around 300 C. This will take longer to heat up the joint, but is less likely to accidentally fry something while you're futzing around getting your iron in just the right place, or you accidentally touch the wrong thing, or the solder somehow isn't flowing the way it should be, etc. (It will also take noticeably longer to melt though something important if you, for example, accidentally brush your iron against a live power cord or something.)
Once you have some practice with soldering, and can reliably place the iron exactly where you want it, keep it there only as long as necessary, and then quickly remove it, and you're used to all the motions, etc, then bump up the temperature to 350 or 375 (or maybe even up to 400, if you're working with big wires, etc). But at the higher temperatures you should make sure that you do not hold the iron to the component for too long, as the heat can conduct through it to other more delicate parts much more quickly. You should be quickly applying the iron, applying the solder, waiting just long enough for it to flow into the joint, and then immediately removing it. (The "3 second rule" demonstrated in this video is fine at 300 C, but _way_ too long at 375.. Ideally, you should be aiming to have the entire time the iron is in contact with the joint, from start to finish, be only 2 seconds or so, IMHO.)
(At the higher temperatures you should also always be using flux. This will help you flow the solder into the joint much quicker and more reliably so you don't need to spend as much time with the iron on it.)
Contrary to what many people think, quickly soldering a joint with high temperature is actually _less_ likely to damage components than taking a long time at low temperature, but you do need to be confident enough in your soldering technique that you know you will be able to get it properly on and off the joint in the minimum amount of time. Using a high temperature but then taking too long futzing around with the iron heating the joint is the worst possible approach out of all of them, and the one most likely to actually damage things.
His hands look 54 but his voice sounds 21