David Vizard's PowerTec 10 EP 12 Pt 3 Professional Accuracy Bearing Clearances To Plastigage or Not
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- PowerTec 10 EP 12 PRO engine race prep series. Part 3 of a 3 part series.
Cylinder block bottom end detailing, checking crankshaft main and con rod bearing clearances, and Con rod prep
Another great video from David Vizard, as I never expect less. This video has much more than the title, all the tips and tricks a professional engine builder does in a race shop to prep the block, crankshaft, connecting rods, and bearings applied to engines ranging from the average mild street engine to an endurance build like a sustained high RPM marine or dirt track application. While putting the skills in a context many will be able to do in a SMALL or HOME SHOP environment.
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Wonderful videos. Invaluable information. Cheers.
Sitting here drinking coffee and watching this morning☕☕
Thank you so much for freely shareing all this great info with us!
Mr. Vizard, Thank you for your valuable time and the information you are providing , the attention to detail and the years of experience you are sharing.
Another good video I enjoyed this series
Excellent, your youtube channel is going to skyrocket im sure, its just that good
Anyone making negative comments is a fool. Great info here for the home builder. Long before RUclips and Internet forums David’s books were heavily relied upon by the guys with Chevy Trucks and Camaros! When I was a teenager at least a half dozen kids built SBCs using the information learned in David’s book.AND None of the blew up! And were abused by pulling sleds at the truck pulls at the county fair, mud bogged, street raced and just took General teen abuse.
Thank you, that was a great video.
I have done it the gauge way and the plast gauge way both worked just fine.
This is the first 3 of you videos that I have seen. Thank you for getting right to what the title says. No 5 min. intro,no background music blasting for those with attention deficit. And you didn't explain how a 4 cyl engine works before getting to the real info.
Thanks again for the info. Con rod prep was very interesting.
Mr Vizard.. As a fan of yours since 2000 having many of your books on the Chevrolet engine especially the small block, i wish to say (THANK YOU) for all you have done for performance engine builders and hotrodders alike all across the world..
You sir are a asset to the community and will go down as one of the greatest hot rod/performance engine builders of all time!! A "HALL OF FAMER" for performance right up there with Lingenfelter, Shelby, Saleen, name them, etc etc.
Well done sir, well done indeed!
Your fan
Adam Gibbons
Cumberland, KY
I always like your video and tell any one who interested in engines to watch your videos and sub they are all a must watch and thank you for putting all the videos out!
Thank you for this series.
A successful build is a rush.
All I can say right now is THANK-YOU great info, I remember my dad teaching me how to build engines and stuff, much like this,
Working on my back log after I finish the new content. Thanks DV
Thank you mr Vizard
More good stuff. Thanks so much
Plastigauge is good enough for what most of us home hobbyists, street performance builders and weekend drag racing warriors needs. Using dial, micrometers, and other precision tools are needed when your building something that is going to run ALL OUT 99% of the time, but when cruising the strip and doing occasional burnouts and weekend drag racing, plastigauge will keep your clearance within operation and better than what was given to you from the factory! And the factory clearance and balance, often enough, let us run our engines hard for years with the high tolerances many have seen. Plastiguage is a necessary step in engine building just like torqued bolts at the correct settings.
Come on, that is a special crank setup with roller bearings, damn now I have something in my mind to compare with that crank spinning that freely..
I learned a ton on this one, David!
Cheers
Man I really hope people catch on to these videos this man deserves to get some views, if he gets them maybe he’ll keep making them hell I would even just like to hear him tell stories like he did on his live shows
Hello, I am a new subscriber of yours David, and I am enjoying your videos.
What is your recommended oil hole positioning for SBC cam bearings. My old GM service manual (1981) has specific clocking that seems to go against what I have found looking around on RUclips.
Your input would be appreciated sir.
Doug
Mr. Vizard, is it necessary to torque the rod bolts to full spec torque to compress the plastigage? Or would, say, ~2/3 of full torque be sufficient. You showed us that it was not necessary on the main bolts, and it would help extend rod bolt life if we did not have to subject them to additional, full stress cycles.
Mr. Vizard….people that are not suffering dunning Krueger effect Are watching your videos knowing your information is tried and true, I’ve used your bottoming hydraulic lifter in dirt car engine successfully. I doubt anyone will care if you just ignore the trolls. You shouldn’t feel obligated to respond to that bullshit. Most everyone know you have earned your stripes.
Thanks again David.
How do you remove the caps (with the press fit dowels) without smashing the Plastigauge? Tapping on the loosened cap bolts would put an extra load on the Plastigauge.
I took my main caps off but they didn't have numbers on them how can i tell to put them back in the right spot David please help me im working on a 3.8 229 for a GMC caberallo
Thank you. Do you have a recommendation of thousanths clearance per inch for mains and crank pins as a general recommendation for other engines
Thank you for your insitghts and video 🙂❤👍
Great stuff, as usual, David. I've noted it before, but when you have to do a repair on an engine that doesn't warrant coming out of the vehicle and totally disassembling, plastigage can be you're only tool. Think checking mains from below the engine with the crank in the engine and in the car.
Here's a tip that might get people to stay on your videos longer, if they are leaving early:
Have the video editor speed up the video before uploading it. I find that watching your videos at 1.25 or 1.5 times normal speed is much more comfortable.
Other tips are to get a TubeBuddy account ($5/month) and use their training videos and tools (like keyword tools). Having the right keywords both in the title and in the keyword list for the video can make a big difference as far as who is shown your videos when they search. My wife uses TubeBuddy for her channel and her results have improved.
Great job showing telling David, learning again something I did not know again great job showing telling thanks keep on showing. And I’ll see ya next time see ya bye bye.
Disassemble the rod cap "with mallets aforethought" 😁
Ive followed you for years David . Your advice has always been stellar . You helped launch an entirely different way of looking at things within me just as Smokey Yunick , Bill Jenkins , and other innovative men have both on the track and using especially Your tech for my daily driver for remarkable effiencency and power . Your discoverys and shared successes havent been wasted by shareing !!! Thank you and i want you to know i also respect you immensely . You opened a whole new world !!!
Excellent as always David. Thanks for sharing.
Mr Vizard, I learnt a lot about engine components and how to tune them from your wonderful book "Performance With Economy" back in the 70's.
I am so grateful to you and that book. I am excited to find your channel and listen to your sane advice once again.
Thank you.
Terry, 66 year old from Australia.
What about crank shafts do u want light weight r heavy crank
More great professional tricks. Thanks.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thank you. You have always been my idol.
Vizard the wizard from the days of the mighty minis
Fantastic video, thank you!
What do u do when the gauge reads outta tolerance
Thank you for taking the time to do this. I have been reading your books for a long time and this helps a lot!
Thank you so much. Your a hero to so many, including myself
Thank you for this series!
Can we see this motor on the dyno?
Appreciate the information.
Nice video David. BTW the last set of those Scat rods I used where not parallel from wrist pin (SE bore) to crank pin (BE bore) such that all the pistons had different deck height front to back by about .007".
Thanks for the great instruction! Also, i just ordered me some Oil Extreme for my flat tappet build. :)
Thank you. I'm sorry for your loss. Excellent video. I have watched many of your PowerTec Videos and have read many of your books and often refer back to them. The information from the books was used to pocket port a set of SBC heads. Thanks again.
What oil brand or weight do you use in the Tri mixture
Fascinating as always, what merits are there in using different clearances? Would wider clearances cause excessive oil on the crank? Are clearances for a high mileage road car detrimental for a race engine?
Racecar engines often have larger clearances than factory to reduce friction, and also the parasitic loss incurred by turning the oil pump. The tradeoff, of course, is lifespan.
@@shelbyavant5081 thank you, nothing too controversial there, though in theory reduced friction should increase life. (ignoring fatigue issues). One of my cars way back had a high pressure/high volume pump, it was something you tended to blindly fit without knowing if you needed it. For a given oil pressure the wider rotor pump is going to be more parasitic load. I think one of the mods at the time was to increase lubrication of the skew gear. A bit ironic really needed to increase lubrication to the oil pump drive because you have a bigger oil pump....
@@g0fvt Reduced friction by itself, in theory, would of course reduce wear, like just using better oil perhaps. That's not what we're talking about. Loose tolerances equal reduced friction at the cost of some of the metal, hence the shortened lifespan. The drag of the oil pump pushing 40-80lbs instead of the 15-50 that it requires is much more important to this topic however, as that is where the real extra power is. Even then, we are probably only taking about a single digit difference anyway. But you struck gold when you said that everyone has been programmed for decades to install a Melling high volume, high pressure, go to hell pump! 🤓
Dear David after completely watching your video and reading about likes and dislikes that you had posted at the end of your video I do not have any dislikes all though sure you may want to think about just using your phone to video yourself I know as someone who’s up there in age myself we were used to production shows. But today’s audience is quite happy with a simple video shot from your smart phone and I’m sure it would be cheaper and easier but I will take your videos anyway you send them please keep Posting
Hay David first I want to write that I love your work I enjoy doing what you do but I’m a hobbyist so I don’t do as much as I would like. I like to understand. What I want to ask is I’m into early vw engine 1600 and the standard crank is a non counterweight do you think I would do better with a counter weight. Thanks 😊
Thanks for the very detailed video. I have dug out my plastigauge after many years. I'm replacing rod bearings and fitting ARP2000 bolts on my chevy ls1 this week and it has been great to reference the video to ensure I am doing things correctly. Clearance is looking great at 0.0019 to 0.0021
Smart guy with a wealth of knowledge and I really enjoy his videos but it's a hell of a lot easier to have the crank in the block locked down and slip the rod piston combo in without rings, rod vertical, put the plastigage on the rod side cradled in the bearing, not cap side and now you don't have to worry about rods rotating and skewing the results. Best way is like he said, mics and bore gage.
thanks!
Excellent information. Thanks for your time. It's nice to have read your books often enough to almost have them memorized, then hear you explain it in video. Much appreciated.
I've always used plastigage but I've never checked the rod clearance with the crank on the bench. I might try it, thanks.
David, Thanks for the great videos. It might be easier to pull instead of pushing when loosening things up. But maybe you have a reason. I will try to find some magnetic urethane vice jaw protectors like I have . Very handy.
Mention Smokey auto sub. Great vid
Quite a few of my engine building tools i've made myself, my oil pump testing jig has sure been a handi one. If i could only have a handful of tools in my shop, some kind of vise would always be on that list !
ive always used x55 solvent when cleaning my engines rebuilds high rapadily no residue evaporation
I wish to thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge of race engine preperation from start to finish
😂 It's fun to hear I'm not the only one that makes all those grunting and spiting noises trying to bust a tight fastener
Now I understand the reason for all that shamforing.
Thank you Mr. Vizard.
I'm so sorry for your loss.
👍
Hi David i have a connecting rod question , im building a 302 sbc 3 inch stroke for the street going in a 3400 pound car 4 speed manual. How long of a rod can i use before in has a negitive effect?
And thanks to Marvin and Andy, too!
Better late than never 😜
That dude perfectly machined that crank.
Maybe.
Basic assembly class.
Yea, this guy doesn't have anything to offer you. Probably should just move along. We'll all let you know if it gets better.
Sex noises at 7:00