Was Gerald Genta's first design the best ever?
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Today we have one of the most iconic yet also quite affordable vintage watches on the bench, a Universal Genéve Polerouter Date from the late 1960s. Initially released as the Polarouter in 1954 with a bumper automatic movement, it was the microtor models that became the most celebrated ones and that most people associate with the Polerouter today. The one we have here has the fabulous 1-69 movement inside it and is in very fine condition, but there are a few things that need our attention...
Join us for a full service of this fantastic watch as we discover that the inside of this watch is just as beautiful as the outside. Oh and we'll discuss living life on the downslope!
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These Polerouters have become popular with “collectors” in recent years so it’s nice to have a detailed tour of what’s under the hood by a knowledgeable watchmaker like yourself who can explain its features.
Nice to see that you are coming to terms with aging so well. I find that a few years gives much in terms of experience…. And humor.
Cheers
Thanks Randy! It's a beautiful watch 😍 And yes, aging isn't the worst thing :)
@@VintageWatchServices i have a UG cal 138 ss up for sale
I'm very impressed with the finish on all of the parts, every thing is well machined and finished extremely well compared to many others that I have seen here.
It's a very well made movement, very high quality indeed 👍
I think that's my favorite watch face. It's absolutely beautiful!
It is! 😍
If you ever feel like occasionally offering some different material or changing your format every once in a while, I suggest some videos focused on watch history or watch design/engineering. It's fairly obvious to me that -- over and above your super watch restoration skills -- you're intelligent, eloquent and funny...I'd love to see that kind of specialized subject matter coming from your perspective, based on your breadth of expertise and experience.
Ideally, you could also further share more subjective material...Your opinions, tastes and, well, attitudes related to watches, watch-making, design, the industry, fashions and markets, whatever, etc.
I second that emotion.
I would like to hear/see you interview some old unsung watchmakers (like guys who worked at UG before it got bought?). They deserve a spotlight, and you’re someone to give it to them - especially since you live in Geneve!
Thanks for that, Mark. I'm planning a very basic video that runs through the logic behind how a watch works. We'll see how that goes :)
I have one of these, was my grandfathers watch. Imagine my surprise after learning in this hobby about the Royal Oak and Nautilus, about Gerald Genta and finding out I already owned one. Makes the watch even more special. Somehow they are skyrocketing in price but I will never sell mine, its staying in the family.
That's very cool to hear! Keep it in the family indeed, it's a fantastic and iconic watch.
A very nice, relaxing service, Stian. An exhibition back on this watch would be stunning.
Thanks Bullnose! And yes, that movement does deserve to be seen...
very beautiful watch with original greeting movement 👍👍
It's a beauty.... 😍
Another fabulous service to a beautiful watch. Love its looks and mechanics through out. Aging can be an interesting journey, so 'Pumping Iron' will never happen in the life of a watchmaker but the end results speak highly of what one can do. So long as the Mrs is happy, than all is good. Cheers..and thanks so much for some great work and viewing...
Thanks, Thomas! 😁
What a joy to see you work on a Universal Polerouter! Such a lovely movement and watch! My Dad's watch was a 1954 "Bumpermatic" Polerouter, which I coveted and loved from the moment I was sentient! Dad was always extremely careful with his things, so his watch came to me in very nice condition. I inherited this trait from him in spades. It has a black dial and yellow gold filled case. Watches are very personal to me, and I have both my Father's and Grandfather's timepieces. Grampa had a 1947 Vacheron Constantine and a 3-diamond dial pink gold Gruen Curvex. I treasure them, and they are touchstones to both of their memory to me. But grabbing Dad's hand after he came home from work with us kids inside his overcoat...I was mesmerized by his Polerouter. Thank you again for the wonderful video, even though I peaked at 25 over 43 years ago. 😃
That's a very nice story, thanks for sharing! And you're very lucky your father and grandfather had such good tastes in watches :)
Microrotor watches are something special❤
They sure are! 😍
Fantastic watch! And the movement is just... 🤤
Great job!!!
Thanks! UG made very high quality watches back in the day 💪
My favorite watchmaking channel... Your humor and offhanded comments make my day. Keep up the good work, Stian. And I finally took the plunge and became your newest Patreon member. :)
Thanks a lot, Ryan! 💪
Fantastic to see ! Prices have climbed dramatically in the past 3 years on the Vintage Markets .
That Movement was in lovely condition .
Your “Gental Genta “ Restoration and Full Service has made POLEROUTER Fans the Vapors 🥰
…… 👍
Thanks so much, that's very nice to read :)
Very nice looking watch. Great job as always. We need some more videos. 😁👍
Beautiful watch. Enjoyed this very much.
Ive been wanting a UG Polerouter but they have gone up significantly as compared to my Longines tanks Im always on the hunt for. Such a beauty and your service was as per usual.
They have gone up a lot in the last few years indeed... You can still find nice ones for less than $1000, though.
The watch channels ( yours notwithsranding) have increased awareness.
I have a UG CAL 138 SS up for sale
Happy Easter to you. Your work is very much appreciated!
Same to you and thanks!
I have a polerouter, with one of the earlier bumper movements. It keeps very good time for an old watch. As you say a really lovely watch. Gerald Genta was very talented.
I really enjoyed watching Stian micro-rotor movements are lovely, and universal geneve watches are very nice, i learn alot from videos, thanks Stian cheers mate.
Thanks so much, Dave!
Hi Stian, just started to watch, i love micro-rotor movements just lovely, they look fabulous.
They're wonderful indeed, and the UG ones are so nicely decorated also :)
Beautiful watch, i have one my dad gave me
I recently wore my 18 karat gold Universal Geneve Polerouter Date with champagne dial to the Swatch store here in Miami.
The representative immediately came up to me and asked, "Universal Geneve?"
For someone to know what watch this is, they are deep deep deep into high horology. I was so impressed with him that I bought a watch, sistem 51 just for fun.
It's literally the perfect watch. It's around 10mm overall in thickness but wears like 7mm thin, as the crystal is thick.
It wears like a 35 mm, but it looks like a 37 or 38 mm because it's so vibrant, and it's so bold.
The target style dial inverses the light play like no other.
You can take a hundred different pictures and none of them look the same because of the way the dials designed with light play in mind.
It's literally the perfect watch.
Mine, from 1960, still has one of the smoothest movements.
I have a Vacheron Constantin, 2022 Rolex Datejust mother of pearl/ diamond dial, Zenith, and a few others but the Universal Geneve Polerouter is art.
You must buy one before they double in price.
Bruce Lee's Universal Geneve Polerouter was sold for $20,000 in 2017
That's a very cool story! Great to hear that a Swatch salesman really loves watches :) And yes, the Polerouter is such an iconic watch, one of my personal favourites as well.
Stian just a follow up from your last posting regarding Mr Arnold Schwarzenegger his communications company contacted me and said that his watch making school is still going strong and that due to your post they have had hundreds of hunks with dad bods apply for the next intake. All thanks to you watch making will continue to be in good strong hands. Take care and have a great Easter. Regards from NZ.
Wow, that is awesome to hear! Apparently working on pocket watches is the ultimate body builder.
Great Video with another Masterful watch full servicing of an Iconic watch as this one, with very clear narrative, nice pace, and insightful comments about the watch and life events!!!!!! It is so delightful to watch the Master at his best!!!!
Thanks so much, Jorge :)
That movement!! 😍😍😍😍
It's a beauty... UG really had it all 😍
I’ve been watching your channel for a couple of weeks now and enjoy your work a lot. I’m also getting interested in watches too, and whenever I see someone wearing one (an increasingly rare thing) I want to look and see what kind they have. I might start a collection of them myself. 🙂
If i may offer some advice, if starting a collection, collecting the designs of Mr Gerald Genta. Would be fantastic he was in my opinion a genius of watch design.
That is very cool to hear, Jason :) They are fascinating little machines!
I love this channel not just for the watchmaking content but for the discussion also :)
Great video!
More to come!
@@VintageWatchServices As a hopeful future watchmaker I am definitely looking forward to it.
What a gorgeous watch! Great job as usual. I was wondering if in future videos, you could show us how you change out the gasket inside the crown. Thanks!
Hello Troy, I can see if I can do that for a video indeed, but that isn't something I always do. Vintage watches are never going to be very water resistant in any case, so the time it takes isn't necessarily worth it, to be honest.
Good work on a worthy timepiece!
Thanks so much!
This is a great watch! Great maintenance work!
Thanks for watching!
Great work, beautiful watch.
Many thanks, Ken!
What a beautiful watch. I can understand why this watch is collectible. Beautiful repair as usual.
Many thanks, David!
damn, now i want that watch, it's exquisite!
Fantastic movements! The cal. 66 is great to work on as well, provided you don't mix two extremely similar wheels around after which you unsuccessfully try to replace the train bridge for an hour that is... Don't ask.
Hah! You're bang on with your 25 year old theory for men - as a programmer I did all my most inventive stuff from 20 to 30. Now At 58, I think what keeps us going after then without looking like the idiots we undoubtedly are, is experience, which hides our creeping decrepitude...
Great video. I have a micro-rotor watch branded by Hamilton. The movements back then are as nice looking as the outside of the watch imo.
Yeah, back then labor was cheap and movements were generally nicely decorated :)
I feel like I'm actually a LOT more productive now than when I was in my 20's. I was doing a lot in my 20's, but back then I also got frustrated very easily and in general I tended to be a lot more emotional. Now I'm definitely more patient, able to think a lot more clearly and learn more, and have a more detailed understanding of things. I'm able to do things now in my early 40s that I never could have done back then.
Oh yes, I fully agree. Capability is not the same as productivity. I would posit that given that our bodies aren't really designed to last for a hundred years as we are getting close to, we peak at a relatively early age in terms of capabilities, but now that we live much longer we have more time to harness our capabilities with experience at a bit later stage. It's a fascinating discussion :)
Nice looking watch, and great service. Better than factory. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching it!
Clicked for the beautiful watch, subscribed for the puns 😂
Damn, Gerald Genta was THE MAN!
😁👍
I really want to get a universal Geneve polerouter. The lyre lugs are beautiful as well as the dial.
Thank you for breathing new life into this watch!!
Also love the micro rotor movement. Wish they would come back in vogue at a price point I can afford. A Patek will always be out of my price range unfortunately.
i have one UG CAL 138 SS UP FOR SALE
Gorgeous watch!. Nice work bring it back to its former glory.
Thanks so much!
Beautiful work on a beautiful watch, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Nice camera work as well as the superior Watchmaking skills.....
Thanks so much, Mike!
Wonderful video, thank you.
Thanks so much!
Beautiful watch. I only have to try to get out of bed in the morning to remind me that I am on the downslope!
I think that it's the dent that the loupe leaves in the forehead that is the watchmaker's most attractive feature.
Haha, indeed!
Beautiful!
So many tiny parts.You are a master in your trade many thx for sharing
Thanks so much 😊
Another interesting and fascinating video! Thanks so much for sharing. I'm glad you mentioned that Longines video - I may have missed that one and I'm a big fan of Longines. Gonna search right now and enjoy a Vintage Watch Service double-feature!
Very cool! 😁
I don't think I appreciated how gorgeous that dial was until I saw it on the wrist. Then it all came together.
It is a killer design... imagine having made that at 24 years old...
There we go, a very good watch service video, but also funny enough to make me laugh my head off. Excellent, Stian.
Thanks Jacob!
Beautiful watch and restoration. I know it was just a slip when you signed "Love, Elvis" with the watch grease but, it was always... "TCB, Elvis". The flow of the signature was spot on though. 'Thank you. Thank you very much.' 🎤
😁 I wouldn't know tbh, but now I do!
@@VintageWatchServices Elvis was very famous for jewelry and his generosity. He had many pieces that had "Taking Care of Business" (TCB) initials on them. The only celebrity watch that I ever wanted was the gold King Midas Rolex that was given to Elvis in the 70's. It was just sooooo Elvis! TCB, baby! 🎤
@@sitandfish Elvis made bling look good :)
Great video on a spectacularly beautiful watch (inside and outside): thank you Stian. And as Neil Innes used to sing: "How sweet to be an idiot and dip my brain in joy".
P.S. I have just read the story behind the Polerouter (aka as "Polarouter" in its early stages) and was surprised to find out that you left out the SAS requirements at the time (1954) for a watch: automatic and highly resistant to magnetic fields, because they were flying close over the North Pole (where magnetic fields pose problems), which seem to have led to the "Microtor". ;-)
Thanks for that! This watch is indeed just as beautiful on the inside as on the outside :) I do try to include the most interesting facts about the watches, but I don't think the microtor was actually driven by magnetism issues, as it wouldn't really have that much of an impact on that. The early Polerouter models actually had bumper automatic movements, the microtor ones came a few years later.
Hopefully one day I will get the opportunity to take one of these apart, beautiful watch and a stellar job 🤙🏻
These are very, very nice indeed :) Keep on tinkering!
Excellent enjoyable presentation Stian, many thanks.
Thanks David!
Like the twisted lugs a lot!
Imho this UG, the Omega Seamaster 165.024 and the Speedmaster Moonwatch are one of the best looking watches ever made (or have at least one of the best looking watch cases).
Thanks for showing that beautiful movement!
Thanks Peter! The twisted lugs are wonderful indeed, and the dial of the Polerouter is just fabulous also 😍
sweet movment 🤘 nice saturday night 😀
Thanks so much and you too :)
AND Happy Easter!
You too!
Thanks for an amazing video 👍
Thanks for watching it!
Cool looking vintage watch. Nice presentation!
Thanks for watching it!
That is a sharp looking watch.
It certainly is! 😍
“Some scientists believe there is an age where men are not idiots.”
Fantastic.
😂👍
What a cool little automatic movement! If I had only known that women responded to watchmakers as you described I would have taken this up in my teens (instead of the guitar).
It's a beauty :) And your loss, I suppose 😂
@@VintageWatchServices You know, I'm beginning to see that you have a sense of humor 🙂 like: where can I get some of that tape that you used on the Tudor mainspring? Do you have to get it from Rolex?
@@garysmith7545 Well, as a guitarist you probably already made a pact with the devil like Robert Johnson did, so you're half way there. The other half is black magic (woman).
I watch a few of the more popular watchmakers on RUclips, and you're my favorite. I see you becoming a top influencer very soon! Then the women will be knocking your doors down!😎😘
Thanks, that is very cool to hear :) Both me being a favorite and about the women!
Love your humor
Thanks so much, Nola! :)
Great watch, great renovation work!
Thanks David!
Nice job. Good looking timepiece.
Thanks, Heiko! 👍
@@VintageWatchServices I was wondering, on a hand wind watch I see you put a couple of drops of oil or grease at the bottom of the mainspring barrel. What do you use for that? Are you coating the spring itself with anything else?
Thanks again.
"Slightly less iconic.." got me by surprise, beautiful work.
😁👍
Wow, that's lovely. Great work once again 😁😁😁
Thanks Luke!
Lovely video with understated humour. Would it be possible to explain the different parameters on the timing screen?
Hello Jonathan, I'll cover it a bit more in an upcoming video 👍
you are a very funny man what a beautiful watch cant wait for the next one thank you
Thanks so much, John L(
Really amazing these micro rotor, nice job...
Thanks Rich!
Great as usual!
Thanks again, Ricky!
Great post thans, your oiler is That a automatic oiler?
Thanks Herbert! No, I use standard oilers.
Goddamed that is a good looking watch.
It is... 😍
Hello from South Africa
Sick design and for a 25 year old to make that is beyond words. Must be the best design for whole 50 and 60s because this came later to Constallation. I was thinking now maybe Certina got some influence from it also on its DS lineup with the sector dials from around 1958 into the 60s. Might be a bunch of other brands also. 35+55 I laughed 😄, nicely done as always, is it Sten or Stian? Thank you.
Yes, imagine kicking off your career with this one in your portfolio... just sick. And it's Stian :)
@@VintageWatchServices Yeah sick, Okey, thank you Stian :)
Hey, women are becoming older, us men are becoming more mature and interesting (like old watches)
Thank you for the vid, I already learned something new (about the upper and lower jewel)
We men like to think that 😉
Loved the video! Excellent work!
Thanks so much!
Very nice watch . Reminds me of the Omega constellation. I have a Hamilton Thin o Matic with a microrotor movement as well as a Junghans Olympic chronograph, which I suppose is rare ( with the Hamilton movement).
I'll probably do a Junghans Olympic chrono shortly 😉
Very nice!
Thanks Andrée :)
Your videos have been a great inspiration for my journey of “breaker to maker “ . I’m doing much better now in the watch making end of things, but, I’m struggling with the toenail cleaning 😎. Can you please help. Great job, Stian
Thanks, Eric, that's very cool to hear! And for your question: no.
wow lot of history this company
viva watch making ✌️
Thanks Nizam!
wiiiiiiii hahhaa that rocket was awesome 😀
😂
As usual fun to look and listen to! One question, though: are you sure the hands are original? I think all the models i have seen of this watch had dauphin hands.
Thanks so much! The Polerouter is indeed typically seen with dauphine hands, but the Polerouter Date and the Polerouter Super often came with baton hands. I'm pretty comfortable these hands are indeed original. But dauphine hands might be nicer :)
I'm late, but can't wait! 🇺🇸🇨🇭🇺🇸🇨🇭
😁💪
1:25 If I owned one of these, and I had you service it, I’d pay you to put a transparent back on it. Wow!
Yes, the movement is also a beauty... making display backs for them might be a business opportunity 🤔
That dial is gorgeous. I too lucked out in that my wife is far more beautiful than I deserve and appears to be aging in reverse from me. Kids are super honest though, aren't they?
Did Buran produce any micro-rotor movement watches? Do these tend to be louder than traditional automatic winding watches?
Kids and drunks tell the truth... Yes, it's a fabulous dial :)
Buren developed a micro rotor movement in parallel with UG, and they were used in quite a few brand's watches.
Have to comment on the VERY sexy slow-mos, dropping parts into the ultrasonic cleaning solution. That's a great feature! Hollywood may be calling soon . . .
Thanks Frank! I'll keep them as a feature :)
The rocket launcher method - love it!
😁👍
super watch sir
Thanks Covai!
Great video and great service. How can I reach you since I also have a UG Polerouter. Thank you.
Beautiful. 👍 well done
Thanks!
gorgeous... i have a Tissot T-Touch and a casio edifice 10 year battery...
It really is! 😍
@@VintageWatchServices next month i will buy the tissot PRC 200 chronograph
@@madmike6942 That's a beautiful watch also! Shame about the quartz movement... 😉
@@VintageWatchServices yes.. but no worries... i olso have a seiko presage😁
@@madmike6942 Phew! 😁
Nice watch
Thanks, Masso!
05:00 Hey! We Love Over-Engineered!
We do!
the workmanship on this movement rivals that of holy trinity at the time, although slight below them; that being said, it is still quite a bit better than JLC, IWC, Omega and Rolex of the day.
Great vlog as always a good mix of banter and know-how, what I love about your channel you're a welcome relief to.all the Rolex chasing channels out there. Loves watches but seriously bored with the Rolex chasing channels.
Thanks Gary! I just cannot find any Rolex's, I suppose all those other channels are buying them all 🤔
Welcome to the Vintage Watch Services Comedy Club. 😊
😁
I'm sure I felt at the peak of my powers much later than 25, so don't sweat Stian. What's not to like about a micro rotor movement, assuming they do the winding job as efficiently as their bigger brethren? Cheers, Howard
Yeah, I'm not really that worried :) Micro rotors are a bit more sensitive to distortion than full size ones but as long as they are well maintained they are as efficient.
THANKS for the video,,how about a 6498 sports watch?
Hello Greg, I'll do a 6498 shortly as a matter of fact, but with a focus on the logic behind how a watch works.
@@VintageWatchServices THANKS, I am learning alot from your videos