You just earned my subscription. I had a repair shop for around 10 years in the 90's and then moved my career to the aerospace. I miss some of the challenges I had those days.
Great video!! I got the famous samsung TV with the bad caps years ago for free and at the time it was just the caps. Replaced them and viola! Great TV about 4 years later got the clicking on and off and thought it was bad caps again. Was not. Spent a month chasing it down to believing it was the power board but I was getting a pulsing on off power on the standby wire. Spent some time and came across a mention on the video board about some components around Capacitor C102 with the IC regulator next to it. The fix was to replace the SMD cap and the regulator. I opted to just touch up the solder on the board and add a 10uf cap onto C102 and tv works great again. I thought it was a bad CCFL tube as the set reports over 120,000 hours. Tv still works great. Better picture than some of the LED tvs of the time. I'll watch this video again if I have more troubles. Thanks for the video.
Also the faulty lamp can be disconnected from the pcb and solder as a dummy load a capacitor in the range of picofarad from 22pf to 220pf 3KV.The value can be found experimental,a small capacitor means disconnected lamp,a large one shortcircuited lamp.So something between the two ranges.
Nice Video. It would be interesting to see how long a stop-gap solution like this works, since the remaining 11 transformers now see almost 10% more drive (also the remaining tubes..). When a tube fails, AFAIR it can't establish an arc, so it goes Hi-Z, this means more feedback voltage (again an FB on the diodes) so it may be healthier in the end to short the tiny sense winding or do a quick knife-cut on the trace to the diode.
Have I mentioned how much I like your channel? You provide valuable information every episode. Sometimes I check your channel to see if you've uploaded a video.
Excellent video as always. But wouldn't be better to measure the dropping voltage across one of the transformers and then calculate and put a resistor, which will result in the same voltage drop as in the other transformers? Now you will have slightly increase voltage in the working transformers, so more stress to the working lamps.
I'm a complete electronics noob and even i intuitively understood the issue and how it was solved. Nicely explained. I'd have probably struggled without the hand drawn diagram though.
Greatly enjoyed. I could watch 100 such vids to learn more. I'm not a repair technician but have some electronics background, would love to repair my Samsung tv. We recently had town power outtage. Once power returned, I figure a surge killed the tv. Black screen except for a very dim overall lighting, no sound. Some of these power supply boards have fuses, but mine doesn't. Why no fuse? Watching several repair vids, it seems like the problem could have several causes. If power surge caused this, what is the most likely problem? Thank you so much. Would love to learn more.
Nice work. I have a set right now I'm working on for someone that has a bad CCFL bulb. Since he's paying for the fix I'm going to order a bulb and pray that it makes it in on piece, as I've never had one shipped to me before. They are cheap so it wouldn't be a huge loss. I really don't want to bypass the transformer or the protection circuit, but I did think about it.
Bypassing the lamp is very common in the repair industry. Everyone I know in the business bypasses lamps because of the hassle and potential damage to the screen or tabs tearing it apart. If a screen only had 4 lamps, then if you bypass you will definitely see it on the screen. With 12 lamps it is barely noticeable unless you are staring at a static screen. On moving images this is not even detectable to the eye.
Yeah, that's true. I've already torn the tv down to get access to bulbs though, took me maybe 20 mins (I'm used to doing it to tvs at this point.) Might as well just wait for the bulbs to get here. I have spare bulbs, just not for a 42" at the moment. Also, my parents just had me fix their 55" LED Hitachi a few weeks ago, the thing was a YEAR old. It wouldn't start, the output to the LED backlight was really high voltage, so I had to check the LEDs. Tore it apart, sure enough, one was blown. I bypassed it with a 1N4148 and slapped it back together, runs fine. Do I notice that one little dark spot? Yeah, but nobody else does lol. So you are right, it would just annoy me if I knew it was there.
Understandable, I am tired of tearing them apart too, overdriven backlights are just causing so many failures. I meant to ask about your scope also but I see you haven't had any luck yet from the other comment
Good Vid. Had one, but after jumping across the transformer the picture stayed on but the BL was flashing. Removing the entire transformer cured the problem. Thanks.
How much trouble and expense is the tube replacement? I've got a question. When you see a line across the screen or maybe two or three, what causes this? I've seen where people discard them because of this problem or give the sets away. enjoyed this session very much. One television repairman in a very small town called Rendon Texas, acted like the New LEDS were not repairable. I know the Plasmas were a big problem. Didn't take long for them to disappear. Thanks for the the video. I noticed that with time, you have gotten better and better with your presentations. I was watching one from 2014 and big difference. Tally Ho...keep up the great work.
I replaced a tube in a laptop once. I was very proud of myself but it only lasted about a year, so it's not worth spending the time and money (£10 for the tube) again for that old machine. I've got 2 LCD screens with multiple tubes, that won't turn on because I presume a single tube is dead. I'm either going to transplant a tube to give one a full complement, or fit a ballast in place of the dead tubes. It's fiddly work peeling the panel apart, but when you get down to it, it's just 2 solder joints to fit a new tube. I've considered making a long, thin pcb with white LEDs to replace the laptop tube, but that's probably more work than it's worth unless I sell them.
You earned a subscriber for a great video and good explanation I like your pencil diagram of the wiring. If this noob understand what you did, perhaps a penciled in pin 1 for input and penciled in pin 3 for out for the primary would have helped. Or also putting that caption you added in your video a few second later on to your diagram, would have also been helpful, for me. Also a penciled in pin 2 for ground and penciled in pin 4 to diode, would have been advantageous to this noob. If I am understanding this correctly; when you soldered a pin to pin 4 and then putting a jumper wire from pin 4 to ground you basically took the diode out of circuit or you basically took the monitoring side, out of circuit. Therefore, no shut down since the monitoring side is out of circuit. When you soldered a jumper wire from pin 1 to pin 3, you are basically taking the primary for that particular light out of circuit or the wire then acts just like putting that particular winding in serious by bypassing it. As an alternative could you have soldered a wire from pin 2 to pin 4, I am assuming pin 2 is the ground from you diagram, which would have taken the monitoring side out of circuit and it would leave the primary still in circuit. Perhaps best to take primary out of circuit to avoid future potential overheating, smoke, etc. Sorry, lots of wondering from a Noob. But, I am sure you made this video for us Noobs, not the professional.
I had a funny one trying to fix like this. The lamps came on for a second, something in one of the lamps or the transformers would audibly buzz, then it would shut the lamps off. So I'm going through all the sense lines, grounding each one as I power on the tv, as you were doing, and then grounding one of them the lamps stay on, but then the buzzing sound would change pitch, ALL the lamps would dim and flicker, then it would stay on, or run a while and shut off. Then other ones would make the lamps stay on, then after I grounded all of them one at a time, the TV stays on and I can hardly hear a buzz. I'd found and replaces a few bad caps in the power supply earlier, maybe the bad caps were leaking some kind of charge into the sensing system and it all had to be discharged. All the lamps seem fine now, weird.
Interesting video, thanks. Next show us how to prevent a power supply from shutting down or toggling on/off all backlights when you have one or more bad LEDS on a backlight strip in a LED Backlit type Television 😁👍. These strips can be a pain to replace.
Hi there! What if you solder a variable resistor between the transformer and lamp to find out the limitation current. As I may envisage (correct me if I'm wrong) the lamp current limitation may lower the values which appear to be shut down the TV. The light could become dimmer or blank totally. But who knows? May be it's still enough to cast some light and reduce the shadowing on the screen. If I got your situation right the lamp tube cathode voltage was rising. So I may assume that the faulty lamp resistance is lower than the rest, and it appears to be the reason. Don't take it as an "enlightened teaching" coming out to you from the sky. I'm just curious if I'm able to solve a similar issue myself. But I suggest to figure the highest voltage value that the lamp power consumption produces with the protection bypass, not for too long of course. And in case it won't get any higher than the values you've already known I would try this approach.
I have an Aiwa home stereo that I bought in the early 1990's. The double cassette deck broke. Do you know I can get them fixed? Everything else works fine.
A little bit off-topic, and asking for your opinion/help. I have the same Power board as shown here BN44-00340A on my LE40C650L1W. The set won´t turn on at all. I got it from a friend. His son said it made a bang and smoked. I found the ceramic capacitor "CI831" blown. = F223Z 1kV = 22nF -20% to +80% @1000V It sit´s between the "-" Bus of "BD801S" = TS6B05G Bridge Rectifier and the drain pin of "MI801S" = FDPF12N50UT N-Channel MOSFET 500V 10A What could cause that damage? Overvoltage through lightning, or a defect in circuitry before/after the capacitor? I will change the HV Capacitor anyway and try it, but i would like to learn more about the development of such failures. When changing the cap, does it make sense to put in one with a higher voltage reading like 2kV than the original with 1kV ? Thanks
What kind of voltage are you getting from power supply to backlight inverter? I have the same tv in a 52 inch. Replaced the inverter board and nothing happened 😒
I have almost this same TV, but it doesn't light up AT ALL. I tried measuring Vac between ground and the high-voltage terminals, but got 100mv or so on each. My friend thinks my meter just can't read voltage at "that high of a frequency" and suggests the tubes are at fault anyway. I don't think the tubes would all die at the same time. My money's on replacing the power board. What do you think? More info: I do see the picture using a flashlight, audio does play, no blown caps. One day AFTER it stopped working, I had left it "on" for a long time, and it suddenly started flashing the picture at a short, regular interval for a few minutes, then went back to black. I haven't seen that since. Thanks for any time you can spare!
I have a Samsung LN46C530 TV exhibiting the exact same problems...did the test on backlight inverter board as you described and found that grounding the sense pin on 2nd xfmr from bottom of board made the backlight stay on. Then I did the jumpers from pin 1 to 3 on that xfmr and the set ran for about 30 mins...beautiful picture. But then backlight went off again ....still have audio and vol up/down and ch up/down are working. What do you suggest now ????? Could I have caused another CCFL to fail ?
I have a Philips 42 inch tv about 10 years old. Its always had this problem: It sporadically turns itself on but has no sound, and the screen is white, then it will turn itself off again. Sometimes, I have to manually press the on/off button to turn it off. We had tech support replace the computer and power boards about 8-9 years ago, but this never really fixed this anomaly. Am I thinking the problem is not on the boards?
I have a 40" Samsung LCD. I have sound but no picture. I can see images with the flashlight test. I have replaced both the backlight inverter board and the power supply board and still not working. The back lights flash for only a second when tv is turned on then they go off. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Great video. I have the same tv keeps flickering and switches backlight off. Changed inverter but still same but I noticed after watching your video there's a tube out. Would bypassing the transformer for the dead tube stop the flickering and switching off? Don't really want to give up on it yet.
I'm starting to think this could be my problem on this LN46B550K I have. Got this and a LN40A550 from a dumpster month or so back, 40" was an obvious fix with 2 "bulgers" on PSB (2006-8 counterfeit caps scam) Still going strong ;) the 46" had a blown thermistor and fuse, powered up ok after replacing. Then starting couple weeks ago, it had that bright to dim fast flicker to it after power up, but would eventually mellow out (not full brightness, but watchable) If I went in user menu and tried to adjust backlight strength, it would start doing the fast bright to dim flicker again, eventually stopping. So now I go into service menu and see that it has almost 11,000 hours on it. (Note: I had a firmware upgrade for it from Samsung and did that as well, although after upgrade, hours went to 0 and the purchase date was the day of the update 12/13/2017...lol) As of yesterday, now when I power up, picture comes on in flashes, 4 times @ 1 sec intervals, then goes black (Audio still there). I'm assuming current sense shutdown in process because I get no AC from source supply after it goes black I havent peeled the screen back to see the ccfl's, but I'm imagining that they're pretty blackened by now. If this IS the problem, I'm wondering if I can convert to LED??, I'm sort of like you 12v, I have a vast graveyard of panel carcuss's, just don't have any ccfl's that would fit a 46", but LED's on the other hand.... ;) Thanks as always, ~Malfunction Junction
Hello, I would like to know if you can help me, I have a Samsung LCD TV Series 3 Model LN32A330J1. It has 12 Transformers and 12 Mosfet 4614, similar to 40014A01. The fuse of the inverter card was damaged, and also the third moset from the bottom up. There is a possibility that I can eliminate that simply mosfet and also that ccfl tube. I think that only 1 ccfl tube of the 12 will not influence the lighting so much. Thanks in advance with the help you can give me
Hello, I am troubleshooting with my Samsung LE40C530F1W TV. i have issue the TV doesn't start every times, but sometimes if start the startup sound apeared and It works properely till off. I can't find motherboard scheme, and even SPI to write bios again. Could You help me? What kind of damage is it? Thanks
They are tricky. My friend and mentor, so to speak, excelled on those. Eve after having done many, from the introduction of those till the mid 80's, he would often grunt and groan and curse. I did about 10 with his help. First off, it helps to be left handed, I am not. he was. There is a time in the dis-assembly, when, it should be done, the changing mechanism should just pull out, it does not, why? things are configured so tightly and in such a small space that you need finger and wrist strength and the ability to combine them without throwing the unit across the room. Kinda like banging out the roll pin in the old Singer 16mm arms. Even worse, putting it back in. LOL. Yo, I really appreciate your videos. We are a dying breed. Keep it up and the best to you and yours.
So the sensing transformer is independent of the drive transformer? And when there’s too much current drawn on the secondary, the quick collapsing of the field induces voltage only into the sensing transformer?
nice video, I learned a lot. have you had any luck finding a tripler for your scope. I bet it's like an old friend. I was offered a second hand scope when mine broke which was nice but I don't like having a broken one in the corner. ..sooner put it back to use. .don't like waste!
Great video.! I have a question.! I have a 32 inch Dynex flatscreen TV, it is an LCD set from 2011 and when the set is powered up the screen lights up for a moment and then goes back out but I still have sound.! Now I’ve tested the LCD driver board and I found an open transformer from pin 1 to pin 6 but from the unnumbered pin to pin 4 I have continuity.! All the transformers have continuity from pin 1 to pin 6 except one.! The only question is can I bypass the transformer when it takes two transformers to light one lamp.!? The pin layout for the transformer is 1, 4, 5, 6, and the one unnumbered pin is between 1,4 now do I just get a whole new driver board or can I bypass the one lamp by taking out the two transformers that drive that lamp.??
It is likely a bad fluorescent tube. When the backlight first fires up the set does a current balance test and if one tube is drawing too much current it will shut the backlight down.
I have a 70” sharp I have sound But no picture I can see the image with a flashlight after about less than a minute the TV shuts off goes black? Any help would be most appreciated!!!
Nice job.. explained well. Bypassing that transformer that way would cause a slight increase in primary voltage to the rest of the ones in that series, correct? Negligible I'm sure, as this would vary with brightness setting anyway.
The lamp brightness may increase slightly, but since the panel modulates the lights with the video content it won't be noticeable and for those that are concerned about a slight over power, the solution is just turn the back light control down slightly. One should never run the back lights at 100% anyway on either CCFL or LED, unless you want the lights to burn out prematurely.
Great video! I have this exact same TV with the exact same problem, however, here's a twist - my screen lights only turn off in this way when the temperature in my house is on the cool side - say below 68 degrees F! Doesn't seem to be a problem when it's warmer than that! As such, it is more a winter issue... Any idea what might cause such a temperature dependency? I may tear it apart and try your troubleshooting next time I forget to load the woodstove. Haha.
Ser A have some problem with this model tv I checked and find some wrong. Blacklight not working, i checked pin 4 in transformer is 00.4 mV DC and 0.015V AC Im checked pin 1 in transformer is 3v The mosfet in power boad not working maybe protected by the protec circuit Please help me, show to me how to fix this problem Thanks you very much for your help!
Awesome video. Awesome explanation. One question, how do those lamps draw high current? They short circuit or something? Is it a sign of iminent death? Lets hope my message makes sense.
Fluorescent lamps are high impedance before they strike, and then the impedance drops to almost 0, and that is why they need a ballast as that is what limits the current.
Stephen Low the problem with replacing 1 tube is now there is 1 tube that is much brighter than the other 11 and 1 bright tube sticks out like a sore thumb. Much more noticeable than 1 dead tube that does not show off camera. I had someone over last night donating a TV and he couldn't tell where the darker spot was but on camera it shows up easily. to the eye not so much even looking at color bars.
this set is pain to fix,have one similar problem where mine took days to show up , went the extra step and replace four back lights,one was bad and the rest was not to bad and now is it works until it get bright it shuts down. joy o joy .
Hi many thanx I've taken out all that glue stuff around my micro feral capacitors and soldered in New ones in my amp the old ones were budged up I'm Jess from Helland in Cornwall in the UK. Great videos can you mention this me many thanx.
Hi, What do you suggest for the following problem iam facing: I have the powerboard BN4400932B of a Samsung TV, which says the Standby power to be 11.8V. I disconnected the board off TV and checked the Standby power to be ok I.e. about 11V, when I connect the board on the TV the Standby power drops to 4.5V. What could be the reason?
This one's label says December 2010. I can't get power to come on for longer than about 10 seconds. One of the two boards I haven't replaced yet is the signal/tuner board, which is also connected to the speakers. I found problems on the power supply and Y-main. The problem could have taken out this board as well.
Right that would be difficult when the set won't stay on. This one took me hours to find. It looks simple, but took quite awhile to nail down. After studying the board layout after the video was published I found I made an error in it when I drew out the schematic. The 2 primary side coils are really, the current sense for the shutdown, and the brightness control, so by by jumping the pins I did I just turned the tube to the lowest level. The HV comes in and goes out on the other side so a complete removal of the transformer is required to completely extinguish the faulty lamp. Its my set so I want to monitor it and see if it acts up again, but I will be removing that transformer before the set goes back together.
Please brother do a video as in how to "trouble shoot" and change VA and VS on power supply as well as how to after they are set there how to set them on ysus there are three I fiddled with that I know I should not have as well as new zsus. Seems I have one way try to totally fix this TV as she has a screen now with new power supply and zsus but I changed the dials so much without meter like idiot that they are nearly stripped so I get one shot, need to do it properly with this meter I finally picked up. It don't know how to do the zsus and ysus ones? Dial seems to be best set counterclockwise all way then tad up but I know that is not proper as in I need the meter I have now. After I set the VA and VS to this PL4260N TV what do I set the zsus and ysus to or how do I even know and if no way, general place to start by eye after doing vs and VA on the power supply with meter? There are only two videos of that and it's not you unfortunately... love your videos are going to blow wife open as its becoming like a wiki for old and new electronics. Very worthy videos! I know you will be big. Maybe some fun, etc in videos, etc. Get a younger Cera guy? Maybe me, hah. I appreciate all if your stuff! Hope make it, rooting for you bro. - Stephen BTW: I'm not always as dumb as this sounds. I am a master electrician residential but self taught electronics over past few months with alloy of my knowledge coming from you.
What are the dials called and what do the dials do on the daughter board of the zsus and ysus and in the sideways protruding boards? How do set the dials on the ysus (3) and zsus (2) after I set 2 VS & VA on the power supply? It's to many, I can't wing it. Help!! I'd love to have a week with you to learn not just in theory. Thanks, Steve
FYI : PL4260N model by HP with new zsus and power supply with totally whacked out dials so I also messed up ysus but did have a screen prior to thinking I could fill it with a little adjust and getting way ahead of myself. I have it back close but I want it exact but again, I do not understand the ysus and zsus adjusters or as in how to adjust them accordingly but alas during I'd do my power supply ones properly with meter then the zsus or ysus ones but how does one do the ysus and zsus settings, heck what is the tech name for the plastic Phillips heads dials to adjust and totally mess it up or fix it? Also, is totally counter clockwise usually less power as I got mine back after four hours with mostly counter clockwise on all then a tad up very slowly.
Sometimes i wish he did highres teardown photos of the set. I got a simular model as that one exept mine takes 2-3min to actualy power on and show a picture or play sound. So i'm thinking there is something realy simple wrong with it coz once it's on it works fine.
Loose ground screws also cause all sorth of weird problems. In this case it was a bad lamp, and even though I erred in the schematic for the "drive" circuit, the primary winding is used the modulate the secondary to control the brightness, by placing a jumper across the primary as I did I effectly shut down the bad lamp so it wasn't drawing excessive current. I have since pulled that transformer to get the dead lamp completely out of circuit as I don't need it coming back to nite me in the ass. The jumper I placed is required as without it, all the lamps will be running very dim indeed, as the control windings are all in series. So anyone doing this needs to not only put the jumper in, but remove the transformer completely.
endri vranici Each lamp pulls through its own transformer as part of the balancing network but ultimately they are connected in parallel, however due to this balancing network if a lamp goes bad and draws too much or too little current the power supply shuts down to protect itself and the other lamps.
Got one now doing the same thing. it will come on and then power off after the Sony image. Going to try bypassing. Since this is an older TV and not many parts available.
Made in Tijuana Mexico? I doubt it, perhaps that label should say "ASSEMBLED IN MEXICO WITH KOREAN AND CHINESE PARTS TO EVADE TAXES. Here in Mexico neither a screw washer is manufactured.
grumpyjuicetrucking probably a failure on the inverter but it could be one of the fkurlorscent lamps that is causing a shutdown. most time if it doesn't try to light up it is the inverter.
Yes I did but the new lamp from before the television came on after then after I pay for some time then it stopped then when I put it in and put it back on it just blink red continuously
Now that was an odd one, i dont tend to mess with backlighting systems as its not allways obvious whats wrong. The high voltage and high impedence tube drive is something i dont have the equipment to check, i also know my limits lol. Well as you are the customer, you should complain to yourself about the bodge, try writing a angry letter to you, you may get it free, worth a try :-D lol.
I made a 100Meg probe for testing 35kv tv anode caps, it connected to my old digital of 10meg and divided by 100, perhaps that may be usable again for hv. Did you get anywhere with sourcing a ht box for your scope, that old heap must be horrible to use ;-(
No luck sourcing the x12 multiplier for the scope yet. No luck finding a scope at ham radio flea market. As you will see when I publish the 4K video of the event later today it was all old junk there.
Dam!, if your anything like me, you get used to the way certain bits of test equipment can be used for the best effect, i would be lost if i was in your place. Ham rallys often sound good, but are filled with overpriced crap :-(
It shows up on camera, but looking at the set you can barely see it, and when I sell it the buyer likely won't notice either. To replace the tube requires total disassembly of the panel and light diffuser, and there is always risk of panel damage, or some dirt or dust getting between the diffuser and screen, and that would be viable.
You just earned my subscription. I had a repair shop for around 10 years in the 90's and then moved my career to the aerospace. I miss some of the challenges I had those days.
I moved to the Telecom industry. But i like to keep a hand in this stuff.
Great video!! I got the famous samsung TV with the bad caps years ago for free and at the time it was just the caps. Replaced them and viola! Great TV about 4 years later got the clicking on and off and thought it was bad caps again. Was not. Spent a month chasing it down to believing it was the power board but I was getting a pulsing on off power on the standby wire. Spent some time and came across a mention on the video board about some components around Capacitor C102 with the IC regulator next to it. The fix was to replace the SMD cap and the regulator. I opted to just touch up the solder on the board and add a 10uf cap onto C102 and tv works great again. I thought it was a bad CCFL tube as the set reports over 120,000 hours. Tv still works great. Better picture than some of the LED tvs of the time. I'll watch this video again if I have more troubles. Thanks for the video.
This is really helpful. I was almost giving up on my old LCD TV and I have already blown my multimeter... Keep it up man!!!
Also the faulty lamp can be disconnected from the pcb and solder as a dummy load a capacitor in the range of picofarad from 22pf to 220pf 3KV.The value can be found experimental,a small capacitor means disconnected lamp,a large one shortcircuited lamp.So something between the two ranges.
Die beste Erklärung die es gibt.Perfekt👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Just put a LN40C630 back in service. One was sensing 0.960V right at startup. Thanks a ton!
An oscilloscope would have seen the spike. 😉 Nice find and fix
thanks so much... great video. you show amazing patients. thanks for breaking down the operation and explaining how those circuits work.
Thanks for your help master. It helped as much, blessings from Turkmenistan
Nice Video. It would be interesting to see how long a stop-gap solution like this works, since the remaining 11 transformers now see almost 10% more drive (also the remaining tubes..). When a tube fails, AFAIR it can't establish an arc, so it goes Hi-Z, this means more feedback voltage (again an FB on the diodes) so it may be healthier in the end to short the tiny sense winding or do a quick knife-cut on the trace to the diode.
The additional voltage on the tube won't make any difference. Running a fluorescent tube under voltage is actually harder then running it over.
Hi...thanks..good lesson ...i fully understand what you show and talk about ...would like to see more..
Fixed my Samsung thanks to you. 👍🏻
Excellent; thanks I’m doing this in the morning' I’m so,so, excited. From South Afria
Have I mentioned how much I like your channel? You provide valuable information every episode. Sometimes I check your channel to see if you've uploaded a video.
J. if you click the bell they will notify you when a new video is uploaded...😁
J. if you click the bell they will notify you when a new video is uploaded...😁
Excellent video as always. But wouldn't be better to measure the dropping
voltage across one of the transformers
and then calculate and put a resistor, which
will result in the same voltage drop as in the other transformers? Now you will
have slightly increase voltage in the working transformers, so more stress to the working
lamps.
Very nice and helpful so patiently measuring the voltages I think I don't have this much I may have to develop. Thank you Sir.
Thanks for your informative video.
I live in Iran and you helped me a lot with this video
Thanks
I'm a complete electronics noob and even i intuitively understood the issue and how it was solved. Nicely explained. I'd have probably struggled without the hand drawn diagram though.
Greatly enjoyed. I could watch 100 such vids to learn more. I'm not a repair technician but have some electronics background, would love to repair my Samsung tv. We recently had town power outtage. Once power returned, I figure a surge killed the tv. Black screen except for a very dim overall lighting, no sound. Some of these power supply boards have fuses, but mine doesn't. Why no fuse? Watching several repair vids, it seems like the problem could have several causes. If power surge caused this, what is the most likely problem? Thank you so much. Would love to learn more.
I have the European version of this TV, still working fine. I guess using the eco mode does help those ccfl tubes last longer.
Nice work. I have a set right now I'm working on for someone that has a bad CCFL bulb. Since he's paying for the fix I'm going to order a bulb and pray that it makes it in on piece, as I've never had one shipped to me before. They are cheap so it wouldn't be a huge loss. I really don't want to bypass the transformer or the protection circuit, but I did think about it.
Bypassing the lamp is very common in the repair industry. Everyone I know in the business bypasses lamps because of the hassle and potential damage to the screen or tabs tearing it apart. If a screen only had 4 lamps, then if you bypass you will definitely see it on the screen. With 12 lamps it is barely noticeable unless you are staring at a static screen.
On moving images this is not even detectable to the eye.
Yeah, that's true. I've already torn the tv down to get access to bulbs though, took me maybe 20 mins (I'm used to doing it to tvs at this point.) Might as well just wait for the bulbs to get here. I have spare bulbs, just not for a 42" at the moment.
Also, my parents just had me fix their 55" LED Hitachi a few weeks ago, the thing was a YEAR old. It wouldn't start, the output to the LED backlight was really high voltage, so I had to check the LEDs. Tore it apart, sure enough, one was blown. I bypassed it with a 1N4148 and slapped it back together, runs fine. Do I notice that one little dark spot? Yeah, but nobody else does lol. So you are right, it would just annoy me if I knew it was there.
This set is being sold, and I won't get 1.00 more for it with a new bulb in it, so it goes the way it is.
Understandable, I am tired of tearing them apart too, overdriven backlights are just causing so many failures.
I meant to ask about your scope also but I see you haven't had any luck yet from the other comment
Good Vid. Had one, but after jumping across the transformer the picture stayed on but the BL was flashing. Removing the entire transformer cured the problem. Thanks.
How much trouble and expense is the tube replacement? I've got a question. When you see a line across the screen or maybe two or three, what causes this? I've seen where people discard them because of this problem or give the sets away. enjoyed this session very much. One television repairman in a very small town called Rendon Texas, acted like the New LEDS were not repairable. I know the Plasmas were a big problem. Didn't take long for them to disappear. Thanks for the the video. I noticed that with time, you have gotten better and better with your presentations. I was watching one from 2014 and big difference. Tally Ho...keep up the great work.
I replaced a tube in a laptop once. I was very proud of myself but it only lasted about a year, so it's not worth spending the time and money (£10 for the tube) again for that old machine.
I've got 2 LCD screens with multiple tubes, that won't turn on because I presume a single tube is dead. I'm either going to transplant a tube to give one a full complement, or fit a ballast in place of the dead tubes.
It's fiddly work peeling the panel apart, but when you get down to it, it's just 2 solder joints to fit a new tube.
I've considered making a long, thin pcb with white LEDs to replace the laptop tube, but that's probably more work than it's worth unless I sell them.
We changed whole tubes still didn't work, as we discovered from this video, the problem was in transfrormer
You earned a subscriber for a great video and good explanation
I like your pencil diagram of the wiring. If this noob understand what you did, perhaps a penciled in pin 1 for input and penciled in pin 3 for out for the primary would have helped. Or also putting that caption you added in your video a few second later on to your diagram, would have also been helpful, for me. Also a penciled in pin 2 for ground and penciled in pin 4 to diode, would have been advantageous to this noob. If I am understanding this correctly; when you soldered a pin to pin 4 and then putting a jumper wire from pin 4 to ground you basically took the diode out of circuit or you basically took the monitoring side, out of circuit. Therefore, no shut down since the monitoring side is out of circuit. When you soldered a jumper wire from pin 1 to pin 3, you are basically taking the primary for that particular light out of circuit or the wire then acts just like putting that particular winding in serious by bypassing it.
As an alternative could you have soldered a wire from pin 2 to pin 4, I am assuming pin 2 is the ground from you diagram, which would have taken the monitoring side out of circuit and it would leave the primary still in circuit. Perhaps best to take primary out of circuit to avoid future potential overheating, smoke, etc. Sorry, lots of wondering from a Noob. But, I am sure you made this video for us Noobs, not the professional.
I had a funny one trying to fix like this. The lamps came on for a second, something in one of the lamps or the transformers would audibly buzz, then it would shut the lamps off. So I'm going through all the sense lines, grounding each one as I power on the tv, as you were doing, and then grounding one of them the lamps stay on, but then the buzzing sound would change pitch, ALL the lamps would dim and flicker, then it would stay on, or run a while and shut off. Then other ones would make the lamps stay on, then after I grounded all of them one at a time, the TV stays on and I can hardly hear a buzz. I'd found and replaces a few bad caps in the power supply earlier, maybe the bad caps were leaking some kind of charge into the sensing system and it all had to be discharged. All the lamps seem fine now, weird.
Interesting video, thanks.
Next show us how to prevent a power supply from shutting down or toggling on/off all backlights when you have one or more bad LEDS on a backlight strip in a LED Backlit type Television 😁👍.
These strips can be a pain to replace.
Thankyou for the educational videos love your videos
liked. Good info, keep up the good work.
Pro tip: watch movies on KaldroStream. Me and my gf have been using them for watching lots of of movies recently.
@Leandro Gatlin yea, I have been watching on kaldroStream for since december myself :D
Thoroughly enjoyed this video...thank you.
Hi there!
What if you solder a variable resistor between the transformer and lamp to find out the limitation current.
As I may envisage (correct me if I'm wrong) the lamp current limitation may lower the values which appear to be shut down the TV.
The light could become dimmer or blank totally. But who knows? May be it's still enough to cast some light and reduce the shadowing on the screen.
If I got your situation right the lamp tube cathode voltage was rising. So I may assume that the faulty lamp resistance is lower than the rest, and it appears to be the reason.
Don't take it as an "enlightened teaching" coming out to you from the sky. I'm just curious if I'm able to solve a similar issue myself.
But I suggest to figure the highest voltage value that the lamp power consumption produces with the protection bypass, not for too long of course.
And in case it won't get any higher than the values you've already known I would try this approach.
If you decided to replace the tube, do you think it would have been apparent which tube is bad visually?
This is a great video. I appreciate the explanation and diagram!
I have an Aiwa home stereo that I bought in the early 1990's. The double cassette deck broke. Do you know I can get them fixed? Everything else works fine.
A little bit off-topic, and asking for your opinion/help.
I have the same Power board as shown here BN44-00340A on my LE40C650L1W. The set won´t turn on at all. I got it from a friend. His son said it made a bang and smoked.
I found the ceramic capacitor "CI831" blown. = F223Z 1kV = 22nF -20% to +80% @1000V
It sit´s between the "-" Bus of "BD801S" = TS6B05G Bridge Rectifier
and the drain pin of "MI801S" = FDPF12N50UT N-Channel MOSFET 500V 10A
What could cause that damage? Overvoltage through lightning, or a defect in circuitry before/after the capacitor?
I will change the HV Capacitor anyway and try it, but i would like to learn more about the development of such failures.
When changing the cap, does it make sense to put in one with a higher voltage reading like 2kV than the original with 1kV ?
Thanks
Who knows. Parts sometimes just go nuclear for no reason and sometimes cause secondary failure.
you mean to say it shuting down only the backlight? the rest have a voltage..
What kind of voltage are you getting from power supply to backlight inverter? I have the same tv in a 52 inch. Replaced the inverter board and nothing happened 😒
I have almost this same TV, but it doesn't light up AT ALL. I tried measuring Vac between ground and the high-voltage terminals, but got 100mv or so on each. My friend thinks my meter just can't read voltage at "that high of a frequency" and suggests the tubes are at fault anyway. I don't think the tubes would all die at the same time. My money's on replacing the power board. What do you think? More info: I do see the picture using a flashlight, audio does play, no blown caps. One day AFTER it stopped working, I had left it "on" for a long time, and it suddenly started flashing the picture at a short, regular interval for a few minutes, then went back to black. I haven't seen that since. Thanks for any time you can spare!
very nice diagnostics 👍
I have a Samsung LN46C530 TV exhibiting the exact same problems...did the test on backlight inverter board as you described and found that grounding the sense pin on 2nd xfmr from bottom of board made the backlight stay on. Then I did the jumpers from pin 1 to 3 on that xfmr and the set ran for about 30 mins...beautiful picture. But then backlight went off again ....still have audio and vol up/down and ch up/down are working. What do you suggest now ????? Could I have caused another CCFL to fail ?
I have a Philips 42 inch tv about 10 years old. Its always had this problem: It sporadically turns itself on but has no sound, and the screen is white, then it will turn itself off again. Sometimes, I have to manually press the on/off button to turn it off. We had tech support replace the computer and power boards about 8-9 years ago, but this never really fixed this anomaly. Am I thinking the problem is not on the boards?
I have a 40" Samsung LCD. I have sound but no picture. I can see images with the flashlight test. I have replaced both the backlight inverter board and the power supply board and still not working. The back lights flash for only a second when tv is turned on then they go off. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Great job, very informative, thank you!
Great video. I have the same tv keeps flickering and switches backlight off. Changed inverter but still same but I noticed after watching your video there's a tube out. Would bypassing the transformer for the dead tube stop the flickering and switching off? Don't really want to give up on it yet.
Update. Tried the fix, working great thanks so much. People just throw good stuff away too easily these days👍
Why do they call it a set? A set is a couple or more or congealed type moment. 🤔
I'm starting to think this could be my problem on this LN46B550K I have. Got this and a LN40A550 from a dumpster month or so back, 40" was an obvious fix with 2 "bulgers" on PSB (2006-8 counterfeit caps scam) Still going strong ;)
the 46" had a blown thermistor and fuse, powered up ok after replacing. Then starting couple weeks ago, it had that bright to dim fast flicker to it after power up, but would eventually mellow out (not full brightness, but watchable) If I went in user menu and tried to adjust backlight strength, it would start doing the fast bright to dim flicker again, eventually stopping.
So now I go into service menu and see that it has almost 11,000 hours on it. (Note: I had a firmware upgrade for it from Samsung and did that as well, although after upgrade, hours went to 0 and the purchase date was the day of the update 12/13/2017...lol) As of yesterday, now when I power up, picture comes on in flashes, 4 times @ 1 sec intervals, then goes black (Audio still there). I'm assuming current sense shutdown in process because I get no AC from source supply after it goes black
I havent peeled the screen back to see the ccfl's, but I'm imagining that they're pretty blackened by now. If this IS the problem, I'm wondering if I can convert to LED??, I'm sort of like you 12v, I have a vast graveyard of panel carcuss's, just don't have any ccfl's that would fit a 46", but LED's on the other hand.... ;)
Thanks as always,
~Malfunction Junction
old trick. you need an old analog meter to catch those quick voltage swing
Hello, I would like to know if you can help me, I have a Samsung LCD TV Series 3 Model LN32A330J1. It has 12 Transformers and 12 Mosfet 4614, similar to 40014A01. The fuse of the inverter card was damaged, and also the third moset from the bottom up. There is a possibility that I can eliminate that simply mosfet and also that ccfl tube. I think that only 1 ccfl tube of the 12 will not influence the lighting so much. Thanks in advance with the help you can give me
Hello, I am troubleshooting with my Samsung LE40C530F1W TV. i have issue the TV doesn't start every times, but sometimes if start the startup sound apeared and It works properely till off. I can't find motherboard scheme, and even SPI to write bios again. Could You help me? What kind of damage is it?
Thanks
Off topic, have you ever done a rebuild of Kodak carousel slide projectors?
I haven't fixed one, but I have one that probably needs servicing.
They are tricky. My friend and mentor, so to speak, excelled on those. Eve after having done many, from the introduction of those till the mid 80's, he would often grunt and groan and curse. I did about 10 with his help. First off, it helps to be left handed, I am not. he was. There is a time in the dis-assembly, when, it should be done, the changing mechanism should just pull out, it does not, why? things are configured so tightly and in such a small space that you need finger and wrist strength and the ability to combine them without throwing the unit across the room. Kinda like banging out the roll pin in the old Singer 16mm arms. Even worse, putting it back in. LOL. Yo, I really appreciate your videos. We are a dying breed. Keep it up and the best to you and yours.
So the sensing transformer is independent of the drive transformer? And when there’s too much current drawn on the secondary, the quick collapsing of the field induces voltage only into the sensing transformer?
Yes that is how it works. If a tube starts drawing too much current, it will induce a voltage into the secondary of the sensing transformer.
nice video, I learned a lot. have you had any luck finding a tripler for your scope. I bet it's like an old friend. I was offered a second hand scope when mine broke which was nice but I don't like having a broken one in the corner. ..sooner put it back to use. .don't like waste!
Great video.! I have a question.! I have a 32 inch Dynex flatscreen TV, it is an LCD set from 2011 and when the set is powered up the screen lights up for a moment and then goes back out but I still have sound.! Now I’ve tested the LCD driver board and I found an open transformer from pin 1 to pin 6 but from the unnumbered pin to pin 4 I have continuity.! All the transformers have continuity from pin 1 to pin 6 except one.! The only question is can I bypass the transformer when it takes two transformers to light one lamp.!? The pin layout for the transformer is 1, 4, 5, 6, and the one unnumbered pin is between 1,4 now do I just get a whole new driver board or can I bypass the one lamp by taking out the two transformers that drive that lamp.??
It is likely a bad fluorescent tube. When the backlight first fires up the set does a current balance test and if one tube is drawing too much current it will shut the backlight down.
12voltvids ok well how would I go about it to test to see which tube is bad.??
I did go over that on another video. You need to disconnect the tubes one at a time and bypass the current sense circuit.
I have a 70” sharp I have sound But no picture I can see the image with a flashlight after about less than a minute the TV shuts off goes black? Any help would be most appreciated!!!
So if pin one measured 40V and pin 3 didnt. Wouldnt that mean that coil was bad?
Mike Richards I was kinda tempted to say replace the transformer and get the tube back online
Awesome vids. Keep up the great work!
You in Toronto?
West coast
Nice information about circuit, that detects faulty ccfl lamp. :)
It would be interesting a video of a troubleshooting bypass t.v. Plasma in the model pl43E400 samsung or similar, greetings
Nice job.. explained well.
Bypassing that transformer that way would cause a slight increase in primary voltage to the rest of the ones in that series, correct? Negligible I'm sure, as this would vary with brightness setting anyway.
The lamp brightness may increase slightly, but since the panel modulates the lights with the video content it won't be noticeable and for those that are concerned about a slight over power, the solution is just turn the back light control down slightly. One should never run the back lights at 100% anyway on either CCFL or LED, unless you want the lights to burn out prematurely.
excellent as always, thanks for sharing.
Get an Infrared heat gun and some freeze spray. Great for isolating thermals. Over Current creates heat. 🙂
great demo please keep them coming
Great video! I have this exact same TV with the exact same problem, however, here's a twist - my screen lights only turn off in this way when the temperature in my house is on the cool side - say below 68 degrees F! Doesn't seem to be a problem when it's warmer than that! As such, it is more a winter issue... Any idea what might cause such a temperature dependency? I may tear it apart and try your troubleshooting next time I forget to load the woodstove. Haha.
Check for cold solder joints. I just fixed my 2009 42" Samsung plasma that had the same issue.
Ser
A have some problem with this model tv
I checked and find some wrong. Blacklight not working, i checked pin 4 in transformer is 00.4 mV DC and 0.015V AC
Im checked pin 1 in transformer is 3v
The mosfet in power boad not working maybe protected by the protec circuit
Please help me, show to me how to fix this problem
Thanks you very much for your help!
Awesome video. Awesome explanation.
One question, how do those lamps draw high current?
They short circuit or something? Is it a sign of iminent death?
Lets hope my message makes sense.
Fluorescent lamps are high impedance before they strike, and then the impedance drops to almost 0, and that is why they need a ballast as that is what limits the current.
Replace the tube. Broken screens give me heaps of them for virtually no cost. It'd make an interesting swap out video.
Stephen Low
the problem with replacing 1 tube is now there is 1 tube that is much brighter than the other 11 and 1 bright tube sticks out like a sore thumb. Much more noticeable than 1 dead tube that does not show off camera. I had someone over last night donating a TV and he couldn't tell where the darker spot was but on camera it shows up easily. to the eye not so much even looking at color bars.
I found a tv on the street but the screen is broken is there a way to buy a new screen for it
this set is pain to fix,have one similar problem where mine took days to show up , went the extra step and replace four back lights,one was bad and the rest was not to bad and now is it works until it get bright it shuts down. joy o joy .
Hi many thanx I've taken out all that glue stuff around my micro feral capacitors and soldered in New ones in my amp the old ones were budged up I'm Jess from Helland in Cornwall in the UK. Great videos can you mention this me many thanx.
Thank you. It was very informative.
ln40c530 working good but front bottom lights not seeing how to manualy turn or use menu no light
how to repair it tube rod ???
i have a samsung that half the leds glow white on, any suggestions?
Hi, What do you suggest for the following problem iam facing:
I have the powerboard BN4400932B of a Samsung TV, which says the Standby power to be 11.8V.
I disconnected the board off TV and checked the Standby power to be ok I.e. about 11V, when I connect the board on the TV the Standby power drops to 4.5V.
What could be the reason?
Have no clue.
Do most of these Samsung tvs play a sound when starting up? I'm working on a 50" plasma and have never heard any music at power on.
The newer Samsung's from about 1998 started the chime music I believe , However, I could be wrong.
This one's label says December 2010. I can't get power to come on for longer than about 10 seconds. One of the two boards I haven't replaced yet is the signal/tuner board, which is also connected to the speakers. I found problems on the power supply and Y-main. The problem could have taken out this board as well.
They do, but there is an option in the menu to turn it off in the menu under "general"
Now, if only I could see the menu! :)
Right that would be difficult when the set won't stay on.
This one took me hours to find. It looks simple, but took quite awhile to nail down. After studying the board layout after the video was published I found I made an error in it when I drew out the schematic. The 2 primary side coils are really, the current sense for the shutdown, and the brightness control, so by by jumping the pins I did I just turned the tube to the lowest level. The HV comes in and goes out on the other side so a complete removal of the transformer is required to completely extinguish the faulty lamp. Its my set so I want to monitor it and see if it acts up again, but I will be removing that transformer before the set goes back together.
Good video but I think it’s much easier to convert the tv to new led system with led driver you will have better colors and contrast
That's called buying a new set. No way would anyone pay to change backlights. I got 50 bucks to make this set usable.
These make the modern LED look good because you can replace the lights in them.
very well explained, thank you ...
Many Thanks 🌹🌹🌹🌹
Analogue meter not digital would show the spike
Very well done !
This video shows up in y notifications, but not on my public subscription page. It's like it's hidden.
Please brother do a video as in how to "trouble shoot" and change VA and VS on power supply as well as how to after they are set there how to set them on ysus there are three I fiddled with that I know I should not have as well as new zsus. Seems I have one way try to totally fix this TV as she has a screen now with new power supply and zsus but I changed the dials so much without meter like idiot that they are nearly stripped so I get one shot, need to do it properly with this meter I finally picked up. It don't know how to do the zsus and ysus ones? Dial seems to be best set counterclockwise all way then tad up but I know that is not proper as in I need the meter I have now. After I set the VA and VS to this PL4260N TV what do I set the zsus and ysus to or how do I even know and if no way, general place to start by eye after doing vs and VA on the power supply with meter? There are only two videos of that and it's not you unfortunately... love your videos are going to blow wife open as its becoming like a wiki for old and new electronics. Very worthy videos! I know you will be big. Maybe some fun, etc in videos, etc. Get a younger Cera guy? Maybe me, hah. I appreciate all if your stuff! Hope make it, rooting for you bro. - Stephen BTW: I'm not always as dumb as this sounds. I am a master electrician residential but self taught electronics over past few months with alloy of my knowledge coming from you.
What are the dials called and what do the dials do on the daughter board of the zsus and ysus and in the sideways protruding boards? How do set the dials on the ysus (3) and zsus (2) after I set 2 VS & VA on the power supply? It's to many, I can't wing it. Help!! I'd love to have a week with you to learn not just in theory. Thanks, Steve
FYI : PL4260N model by HP with new zsus and power supply with totally whacked out dials so I also messed up ysus but did have a screen prior to thinking I could fill it with a little adjust and getting way ahead of myself. I have it back close but I want it exact but again, I do not understand the ysus and zsus adjusters or as in how to adjust them accordingly but alas during I'd do my power supply ones properly with meter then the zsus or ysus ones but how does one do the ysus and zsus settings, heck what is the tech name for the plastic Phillips heads dials to adjust and totally mess it up or fix it? Also, is totally counter clockwise usually less power as I got mine back after four hours with mostly counter clockwise on all then a tad up very slowly.
I had one screaming Samsung before. It was bad control board. I replaced it and that was the end of the problem
Sometimes i wish he did highres teardown photos of the set.
I got a simular model as that one exept mine takes 2-3min to actualy power on and show a picture or play sound.
So i'm thinking there is something realy simple wrong with it coz once it's on it works fine.
tbbw
that sounds like s power supply problem. check your voltages. it is either a power supply or main board issue.
Probably an un-intended pun, "identified and rectified". Caps are, and always have been a source of odd problems.
Loose ground screws also cause all sorth of weird problems.
In this case it was a bad lamp, and even though I erred in the schematic for the "drive" circuit, the primary winding is used the modulate the secondary to control the brightness, by placing a jumper across the primary as I did I effectly shut down the bad lamp so it wasn't drawing excessive current. I have since pulled that transformer to get the dead lamp completely out of circuit as I don't need it coming back to nite me in the ass. The jumper I placed is required as without it, all the lamps will be running very dim indeed, as the control windings are all in series. So anyone doing this needs to not only put the jumper in, but remove the transformer completely.
I want to know how are connected lamps serie or parallel schematic
endri vranici
Each lamp pulls through its own transformer as part of the balancing network but ultimately they are connected in parallel, however due to this balancing network if a lamp goes bad and draws too much or too little current the power supply shuts down to protect itself and the other lamps.
sorry I have 6 transformers to 12 lamps should be the same?
Each transformer is likely powering 2 lamps, usually they are in series.
thanks now im clear
Got one now doing the same thing. it will come on and then power off after the Sony image. Going to try bypassing. Since this is an older TV and not many parts available.
Made in Tijuana Mexico? I doubt it, perhaps that label should say "ASSEMBLED IN MEXICO WITH KOREAN AND CHINESE PARTS TO EVADE TAXES. Here in Mexico neither a screw washer is manufactured.
Great job as usual
I did the flashlight check and the tv is on but I have no backlight. Is it safe to say the inverter board is bad
grumpyjuicetrucking
probably a failure on the inverter but it could be one of the fkurlorscent lamps that is causing a shutdown. most time if it doesn't try to light up it is the inverter.
12voltvids hope a new inverter fixes it.
Yes I did but the new lamp from before the television came on after then after I pay for some time then it stopped then when I put it in and put it back on it just blink red continuously
Now that was an odd one, i dont tend to mess with backlighting systems as its not allways obvious whats wrong.
The high voltage and high impedence tube drive is something i dont have the equipment to check, i also know my limits lol.
Well as you are the customer, you should complain to yourself about the bodge, try writing a angry letter to you, you may get it free, worth a try :-D lol.
All I used was a meter and a jumper. That was it, but you are right there are high voltages on these inverter boards that can bite.
Or a DSO
I made a 100Meg probe for testing 35kv tv anode caps, it connected to my old digital of 10meg and divided by 100, perhaps that may be usable again for hv.
Did you get anywhere with sourcing a ht box for your scope, that old heap must be horrible to use ;-(
No luck sourcing the x12 multiplier for the scope yet. No luck finding a scope at ham radio flea market. As you will see when I publish the 4K video of the event later today it was all old junk there.
Dam!, if your anything like me, you get used to the way certain bits of test equipment can be used for the best effect, i would be lost if i was in your place.
Ham rallys often sound good, but are filled with overpriced crap :-(
What about crraket screen..
Great info, thanks
Could a bad tube light cause the transformer to work harder?
Great! Thank you!
Well explained ! Thanks
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I have a question what is your ID as a technician about the quality of Samsung tv.?
when i turn on my samsung tv. only red light appear.. and automaticaly the backlight turn off... isnt it the trouble is in the main board? help!
Having same issue here, but looks like a faulty powersupply
wow you think like me. you really cant tell from here. is it possible to replace the bad tube??
It shows up on camera, but looking at the set you can barely see it, and when I sell it the buyer likely won't notice either.
To replace the tube requires total disassembly of the panel and light diffuser, and there is always risk of panel damage, or some dirt or dust getting between the diffuser and screen, and that would be viable.