Beautiful Super 16mm film footage by Rudolfs Griva, shot with the Krasnogorsk-3 and the stock Meteor zoom 17-69mm: ruclips.net/video/orQvAUI-uOI/видео.html
Very happy you find this useful. Yes it's not easy working with film, but it's more than worth it. The results are simply magnificent. Please stay tuned, much more to come.
@BG Creations - what kind of format did you shoot the Kodak Tri-X in? Super 8 or 16mm? I shot it on Super 8 way back in the late 1970s. It was more expensive than the Kodachrome 40 and a bit on the grainy side, but it had a great look and feel to it.
@@bgcreations6995 7293 is the Vision 3 200T. Wonderful film stock for 16mm. Wes Anderson's Moonrise Kingdom is all Super 16 200T. Do you still have the Bolex?
@@truefilm6991 I have shot of the Arri S and Sr 2, Bolex. I do not own a Bolex. But I do have a K3 that I have not touched in the last 17 years. I also have few 7293 stock siting in the freezer. Did you shoot a grey card for your film?
@@bgcreations6995 Nice classic cameras! Never had access to a professional 16mm camera. I did see a lot of Arri S and BL back in the late 1970s when I worked small jobs at the TV station. My issue is, that I am not fond of the old 3:4 (3.375:1) format and professionally converted or native Super 16 cameras plus lenses are very, very expensive. No 16mm camera rental where I live. Cropped regular 16 is an incredible waste of precious and expensive real estate. No gray card. Just testing. In the future I will calibrate the frame rate first with a film loop and a metronome app. You can be off by almost a half stop, since the frame rate markings are way off. I plan on using a combination of an incidental light meter and a free cell phone app for reflected/ incoming light. That should suffice.
Thank you so much for this video and your other videos on K-3. I'm planning to shoot a short film soon with it and have been on the lookout for an affordable one on ebay and your videos have been really helpful for me to learn in the meantime.
Thank you. That's a very nice comment. Please check out my links to other great K-3 related information and footage. As soon as I have the time and💰💰💰, I will upload more videos and K-3 footage. Anything you want to know, just holler! Thanks again.
@@truefilm6991 cant wait, i have myself a K3 now this past week and im just waiting on my film stock! you have probably saved me +100's of dollars in mistakes :)
@@madskdz Oh, you will still make some mistakes, which is part of the process. Working with film is an art and a craft that have to be learned. It's all worth it. 16mm film looks absolutely fantastic. Is your K-3 Super 16 or Ultra 16 converted?
@@truefilm6991 it’s not, no modifications done at all. It was very strange, has the m42 mount and all the bits that came in a nice leather bag. Looks almost like it was used 3 or 4 times ever. If I could find a s16 gate I might modify it
@@madskdz There are still many K-3s that are almost as new. Many owners just couldn't afford film, so I read. Make sure you check the Facebook Group (if you haven't already): 8mm and 16mm, for filmmakers who shoot on film. Great knowledgeable people there, sharing their experience and knowledge. facebook.com/groups/8mmand16mmfilmmakersgroup/about Best of luck for your upcoming K-3 film projects!
@@francisharris7790 we film fans are masochists 😂 "Got the shot?" - "let's see in two weeks when the fim returns from processing and scanning! 😂 But seriously. If all is fine, the results are always better than expected.
Hey Truefilm - thanks for this great rundown - I have just removed my loop formers and put the camera back together. Naturally I am now paranoid at every perceived difference in the camera than pre-removal haha.. When I wind counterclockwise all is working normally and motor runs when trigger pulled. However when I push clockwise the winder freely moves in that direction.. I don’t remember it being able to be moved that way before. Can you confirm if your K3 winder moves clockwise when turned that way? Thankyou for your time
Thanks! That was done by my good friend Rudolf. I believe he did it in Adobe Premiere Pro and After Effects. He is an ace color grader. He used de-speckle, which is not perfect, but with the right settings it works fine. The best way would be de-speckle with manual corrections frame by frame, but this is just a test with expired film anyway. The slightly blurred frames come from the camera shake, not from the exposure. I held the camera firmly in place with my left hand after experiencing the shake and it worked.
@@truefilm6991 Awesome thanks for the info on that -- definitely looking into a K3 at some point soon for some passion projects and special music videos -- I think it's totally worth it.
This is a great technical and detailed post about the K-3. I also find insightful for training the eye for digital cinematography. This channel will be very successful. Glad I subscribed. 📽🎞🔥
@@andyzancan630 well I don't know the exact number of times, since you often don't shoot for the full 25 seconds of one wind up, but it should be about 5-6 times each roll on average. And of course, if you take a break of one full day or more mid roll, you need to make sure that the spring is fully unwound. Hope this helps.
The K-3 is spring driven and the frame rate is roughly kept constant through mechanical means (a governor). The average frame rate is off, but you can find a point at the frame rate knob, which is continuous, that is much closer to the desired frame rate. Ruben Arce made a great video about exactly that: ruclips.net/video/0LjtH9hxrh0/видео.html
Thank you! Well these are just test shots, mostly with long expired film stock I got for free, just to get the hang of the K-3. But yes: with a little effort, the K-3 can deliver amazing results.
@@azfilmmaking6734 everything was shot in Lisbon. Film stocks are all indicated in my voice over commentary. Please name the timestamp and I will be happy to name the fim stock.
Thanks a lot! PS: well we need to be very resourceful keeping real film somehow affordable, but it's more than worth it. Welcome to the great film community!
Thanks. Well there is a lot of information about transferring film to digital, both at home or through a professional lab. I will keep your request in mind. Have a Merry Christmas!
Very nice footage.. and details about your process.. thank you ! How could the ektachrome get to be processed ? I heard it was discontinued "forever"..
Thank you. The film stock that has been discontinued forever is the Kodachrome. The old Ektachrome 100D (7285) has also been discontinued, but the new one (7294) was introduced a few years ago. I think it looks fantastic. It's more expensive than the negative stocks, but it can be projected if you shoot regular 16 and it has its own look and feel. You should ask the lab if they process in E-6 and if so, you're good to go. Hope this helps.
It was done in Vegas by fellow film buff and K-3 user Rudolfs Griva. Stabilized, color graded, grain management and automatic spot removal (which was a compromise to remove remaining white spots from sticky remjet backing from the expired film stock - Fuji negative is known for its sticky remjet, but I had the same problem with expired Kodak).
Hey there awesome video, just wondering when did the film expire, I recently got hold of a bunchhhhhhhh of motion picture film that expired around 2008 ish but it was stored in the fridge forever so I’m thinking if I should still follow the one decade one stop rule :)))
Well I got the EXR and Vision 1 stocks for free from a fellow film buff, only knowing that he re-spooled these onto 100ft spools from short ends of 400ft loads. So I had to guesstimate. The old E 100D only had the (c) on the label, so again: guesstimating. The Tri-X was fresh. Yep, 1 stop rule (or rating it at half the ISO, which is the same) should be just fine for 2008-ish. You can always add a half stop anyway if it's color negative and it still leaves a small margin to open up a little when you use f-stops, since the reading is always in T-stops. Good luck with your upcoming film projects!
Thank you. The Eastman EXR 50D, like all other film stocks used here, was single perf. You would see the sprocket holes on the right side in the Super 16 frame. I already shot double perf (long expired Orwo Chrom UT15 as a camera test) so I know what it looks like as Super 16. You could use double perf when cropping top and bottom for the 2.39:1 widescreen format.
@@truefilm6991 Ah right thanks! And since you had to rate it at 25 ASA, did you get the film pulled down a stop when you sent it off to get processed? Or was is it just processed at 50 ASA?
@@joshuawisdom7585 The EXR 50D was processed normally in ECN-2. It had lost sensitivity, so it became a 20 ISO stock. The rule-of-thumb is one stop for each decade, but I reckoned that this had been professionally stored in the freezer. It came from a short end from professional production. I don´t see an amateur using 16mm negative stock back in the 1990s. Turned out I was right.
It's all in the comment and in the description: expired Eastman EXR 50D, expired Kodak Vision (1) 500T, expired Kodak Ektachrome 100D (the old one), expired Fuji Super F 160D and fresh Kodak Tri-X black and white reversal. Machine processed by Andec, Germany and hand processed by Gauge Film, UK. Scanned by Gauge film, UK. Just check the comment or the subtitles or the description. Thanks for the comment.
Welcome to the film community! Well I used two lenses in all of my footage: the zoom lens that comes with the K-3, the Meteor 17-69 f/1.9 plus a wide angle Zenitar 16mm f/2.8 lens. I am currently planning on a video about lenses, including focal lengths, for the 16mm and Super 16 film formats, without too much boring math. Here is a very quick idea: there is an agreed upon standard (or normal) focal length for film formats, the exact same applies for sensor size in digital cameras. For 35mm film formats it is 50mm, for 16mm and Super 16 it is 25mm, for Super 8mm it is about 15mm. I know it is MUCH more complex than that, but the above is fine to get you an idea. Any shorter focal length is wide(r) angle and any longer focal length is more towards telephoto. Hope this helps. Please feel free to shoot if you have any further questions.
I took out the loop formers. These were added to the original K-1 and K-2 design, so the camera works perfectly fine without these. Also: the threads lost their original elasticity, so they don't work as they once did. This is my personal opinion: the loop formers add nothing and can foul the film since you never know if they retract sufficiently once the lid is closed. Without these, you know exactly what's going on inside the camera before closing the lid. Thanks for commenting.
Beautiful Super 16mm film footage by Rudolfs Griva, shot with the Krasnogorsk-3 and the stock Meteor zoom 17-69mm:
ruclips.net/video/orQvAUI-uOI/видео.html
Awesome vid! Love Lisbon and you make me wanna go back!
Such a great video! Thanks for taking the time to put it together. I love seeing people utilise 16mm. What a beautiful format!
Thank you! Of course these are all tests. Hopefully I will be able to shoot with fresh film stock, getting pristine images, in the near future.
Приятно, когда нашими кинокамерами снимают за границей! Тоже имел опыт работы с Красногорском на детской киностудии.Привет из России!
Thank you for sharing. What ive learned.. dont get too technical and simply start shooting!
You are welcome. That about sums it up.
This was a real treat to watch - such interesting insight, all amongst such gorgeous footage!!:) Lovely video, I can't wait to see more!!:D
Thank you, much appreciated!
@@truefilm6991 You're so, so very welcome!!:)
@@jack_bench Just dropped a comment on a video on your channel. Looking good!
@@truefilm6991 Oh thanks so much!!:D That's so kind man:)
✍✍✍✍✍✍learning a lot. Hope you can upload more vids like this one in the future.
Thank you for taking the time to share your experiences with this camera and the various film stocks.
You are welcome.
thank you thank you thank you for everything you do !
Well thank you. I really appreciate your kind comment. Just sharing my experience with film, hoping to inspire people.
excellent footage and commentary!
Thank you!
Thanks a ton for all the details!
Those are precious informations.
Very happy you find this useful. Yes it's not easy working with film, but it's more than worth it. The results are simply magnificent. Please stay tuned, much more to come.
wow this was really well made, bravo!
Thank you!
Thank you for all the information
You are welcome!
Very helpfull info, got a Krasnogarsk 3
Thank you! All the best for your upcoming film projects!
@@truefilm6991 Thanks a lot :)
Thank you so much for the beautiful footages and sharing your experience.
Thanks for watching!
I have shot on the Kodak Tri-X, black and white reversal. Lot of memories.
@BG Creations - what kind of format did you shoot the Kodak Tri-X in? Super 8 or 16mm? I shot it on Super 8 way back in the late 1970s. It was more expensive than the Kodachrome 40 and a bit on the grainy side, but it had a great look and feel to it.
@@truefilm6991 16mm on the bolex. I also used Kodak 7293 for indoors.
@@bgcreations6995 7293 is the Vision 3 200T. Wonderful film stock for 16mm. Wes Anderson's Moonrise Kingdom is all Super 16 200T. Do you still have the Bolex?
@@truefilm6991 I have shot of the Arri S and Sr 2, Bolex. I do not own a Bolex. But I do have a K3 that I have not touched in the last 17 years. I also have few 7293 stock siting in the freezer. Did you shoot a grey card for your film?
@@bgcreations6995 Nice classic cameras! Never had access to a professional 16mm camera. I did see a lot of Arri S and BL back in the late 1970s when I worked small jobs at the TV station. My issue is, that I am not fond of the old 3:4 (3.375:1) format and professionally converted or native Super 16 cameras plus lenses are very, very expensive. No 16mm camera rental where I live. Cropped regular 16 is an incredible waste of precious and expensive real estate. No gray card. Just testing. In the future I will calibrate the frame rate first with a film loop and a metronome app. You can be off by almost a half stop, since the frame rate markings are way off. I plan on using a combination of an incidental light meter and a free cell phone app for reflected/ incoming light. That should suffice.
Thank you so much for this video and your other videos on K-3. I'm planning to shoot a short film soon with it and have been on the lookout for an affordable one on ebay and your videos have been really helpful for me to learn in the meantime.
Thank you for your input. Wishing you the best of luck for your upcoming film projects.
When are you releasing your short film? Keep us updated
@@kinghailz786 will do. Very busy at the moment to make some 💰💰💰 so I can finance it. Thanks for your interest.
@@truefilm6991 comment was for Ingrid lol. But I'm glad to know you have a film coming too!
@@truefilm6991 p.s. talking on 2 different videos at the same time. That's a first!
your the man, thanks for all the K3 content
Thank you. That's a very nice comment. Please check out my links to other great K-3 related information and footage. As soon as I have the time and💰💰💰, I will upload more videos and K-3 footage. Anything you want to know, just holler! Thanks again.
@@truefilm6991 cant wait, i have myself a K3 now this past week and im just waiting on my film stock! you have probably saved me +100's of dollars in mistakes :)
@@madskdz Oh, you will still make some mistakes, which is part of the process. Working with film is an art and a craft that have to be learned. It's all worth it. 16mm film looks absolutely fantastic. Is your K-3 Super 16 or Ultra 16 converted?
@@truefilm6991 it’s not, no modifications done at all. It was very strange, has the m42 mount and all the bits that came in a nice leather bag. Looks almost like it was used 3 or 4 times ever.
If I could find a s16 gate I might modify it
@@madskdz There are still many K-3s that are almost as new. Many owners just couldn't afford film, so I read. Make sure you check the Facebook Group (if you haven't already): 8mm and 16mm, for filmmakers who shoot on film. Great knowledgeable people there, sharing their experience and knowledge. facebook.com/groups/8mmand16mmfilmmakersgroup/about
Best of luck for your upcoming K-3 film projects!
That’s cool!! It’s got the old cinematic style and feeling 😮
That's the idea. More recent video editing software comes with more detailed film emulation, but there's nothing like the real thing.
@@truefilm6991 That’s how doing filming should be. The real thing
@@francisharris7790 we film fans are masochists 😂 "Got the shot?" - "let's see in two weeks when the fim returns from processing and scanning! 😂 But seriously. If all is fine, the results are always better than expected.
@@truefilm6991 Hahaha hey nothing wrong with being avid film fan but you got one too me!! A big fan of super 8mm 16mm and 35mm 😁
@@francisharris7790 ...and 65mm 15-perf horizontal IMAX when budget allows 😂
Hey Truefilm - thanks for this great rundown -
I have just removed my loop formers and put the camera back together. Naturally I am now paranoid at every perceived difference in the camera than pre-removal haha..
When I wind counterclockwise all is working normally and motor runs when trigger pulled. However when I push clockwise the winder freely moves in that direction.. I don’t remember it being able to be moved that way before. Can you confirm if your K3 winder moves clockwise when turned that way?
Thankyou for your time
Love the enhanced time lapse at the end! How did you go about enhancing and stabilizing? Was that in a digital medium like premiere?
Thanks! That was done by my good friend Rudolf. I believe he did it in Adobe Premiere Pro and After Effects. He is an ace color grader. He used de-speckle, which is not perfect, but with the right settings it works fine. The best way would be de-speckle with manual corrections frame by frame, but this is just a test with expired film anyway. The slightly blurred frames come from the camera shake, not from the exposure. I held the camera firmly in place with my left hand after experiencing the shake and it worked.
@@truefilm6991 Awesome thanks for the info on that -- definitely looking into a K3 at some point soon for some passion projects and special music videos -- I think it's totally worth it.
@@jdamicoofficial oh yes it is absolutely worth it!
This is a great technical and detailed post about the K-3. I also find insightful for training the eye for digital cinematography. This channel will be very successful. Glad I subscribed. 📽🎞🔥
Thanks for your support! More videos on their way.
Thank you!
nice one . . . . .
My gosh! Stunning!
Thank you!
Beautiful !! Amazing Congrtas
Can you please make a video about how to charge correctly de camera ??
thank you
Thanks for the kind words! What did you mean by charging? Are you referring to the wind up motor or the batteries for the internal light meter?
@@truefilm6991 I mean about the wind up motor, how many time you have to used it in one roll of film?
@@andyzancan630 well I don't know the exact number of times, since you often don't shoot for the full 25 seconds of one wind up, but it should be about 5-6 times each roll on average. And of course, if you take a break of one full day or more mid roll, you need to make sure that the spring is fully unwound. Hope this helps.
Fantastic!!!
Thank you!
Very informative ... thanks for sharing
awesome footage! and amazing off-screen comments
Thank you!
Just very very curious. What do you mean k3 runs slightly fast thus the slight slow motion & had to adjust at 00:42.
The K-3 is spring driven and the frame rate is roughly kept constant through mechanical means (a governor). The average frame rate is off, but you can find a point at the frame rate knob, which is continuous, that is much closer to the desired frame rate. Ruben Arce made a great video about exactly that: ruclips.net/video/0LjtH9hxrh0/видео.html
Amazing
Thank you! Well these are just test shots, mostly with long expired film stock I got for free, just to get the hang of the K-3. But yes: with a little effort, the K-3 can deliver amazing results.
@@truefilm6991 I like the one shot in Lisbon. Which film was it?
@@azfilmmaking6734 everything was shot in Lisbon. Film stocks are all indicated in my voice over commentary. Please name the timestamp and I will be happy to name the fim stock.
Thanks, this is awesome! This is TRUE film, indeed! Subscribed. 😎
Thanks a lot! PS: well we need to be very resourceful keeping real film somehow affordable, but it's more than worth it. Welcome to the great film community!
@@truefilm6991 You are very welcome! YES! 😊 Thank you very much, my friend. Best Wishes
Thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it!
Good content. Can you do a video about 16mm film conversion to digital format?
Thanks. Well there is a lot of information about transferring film to digital, both at home or through a professional lab. I will keep your request in mind. Have a Merry Christmas!
Very nice footage.. and details about your process.. thank you ! How could the ektachrome get to be processed ? I heard it was discontinued "forever"..
Thank you. The film stock that has been discontinued forever is the Kodachrome. The old Ektachrome 100D (7285) has also been discontinued, but the new one (7294) was introduced a few years ago. I think it looks fantastic. It's more expensive than the negative stocks, but it can be projected if you shoot regular 16 and it has its own look and feel. You should ask the lab if they process in E-6 and if so, you're good to go. Hope this helps.
how did you enhance the last shot?
It was done in Vegas by fellow film buff and K-3 user Rudolfs Griva. Stabilized, color graded, grain management and automatic spot removal (which was a compromise to remove remaining white spots from sticky remjet backing from the expired film stock - Fuji negative is known for its sticky remjet, but I had the same problem with expired Kodak).
was Edward Snowden singing in the portuguese choir?
3:55 center? Damn, you caught him! LOL
@@truefilm6991 yes :-) , and, all the best with your future projects!
@@a3103-j7g Thanks!
Hey there awesome video, just wondering when did the film expire, I recently got hold of a bunchhhhhhhh of motion picture film that expired around 2008 ish but it was stored in the fridge forever so I’m thinking if I should still follow the one decade one stop rule :)))
Well I got the EXR and Vision 1 stocks for free from a fellow film buff, only knowing that he re-spooled these onto 100ft spools from short ends of 400ft loads. So I had to guesstimate. The old E 100D only had the (c) on the label, so again: guesstimating. The Tri-X was fresh. Yep, 1 stop rule (or rating it at half the ISO, which is the same) should be just fine for 2008-ish. You can always add a half stop anyway if it's color negative and it still leaves a small margin to open up a little when you use f-stops, since the reading is always in T-stops. Good luck with your upcoming film projects!
your voice is really nice
Thanks! I just can't shake my Frankfurt accent, LOL.
Great footage! Was the Eastman EXR 50D you used double perf or single?
Thank you. The Eastman EXR 50D, like all other film stocks used here, was single perf. You would see the sprocket holes on the right side in the Super 16 frame. I already shot double perf (long expired Orwo Chrom UT15 as a camera test) so I know what it looks like as Super 16. You could use double perf when cropping top and bottom for the 2.39:1 widescreen format.
@@truefilm6991 Ah right thanks! And since you had to rate it at 25 ASA, did you get the film pulled down a stop when you sent it off to get processed? Or was is it just processed at 50 ASA?
@@joshuawisdom7585 The EXR 50D was processed normally in ECN-2. It had lost sensitivity, so it became a 20 ISO stock. The rule-of-thumb is one stop for each decade, but I reckoned that this had been professionally stored in the freezer. It came from a short end from professional production. I don´t see an amateur using 16mm negative stock back in the 1990s. Turned out I was right.
Great video thanks
Thank you!
What film did you use?
It's all in the comment and in the description: expired Eastman EXR 50D, expired Kodak Vision (1) 500T, expired Kodak Ektachrome 100D (the old one), expired Fuji Super F 160D and fresh Kodak Tri-X black and white reversal. Machine processed by Andec, Germany and hand processed by Gauge Film, UK. Scanned by Gauge film, UK. Just check the comment or the subtitles or the description. Thanks for the comment.
what lens did you use ? i’m new to the film videography world
Welcome to the film community!
Well I used two lenses in all of my footage: the zoom lens that comes with the K-3, the Meteor 17-69 f/1.9 plus a wide angle Zenitar 16mm f/2.8 lens.
I am currently planning on a video about lenses, including focal lengths, for the 16mm and Super 16 film formats, without too much boring math.
Here is a very quick idea: there is an agreed upon standard (or normal) focal length for film formats, the exact same applies for sensor size in digital cameras. For 35mm film formats it is 50mm, for 16mm and Super 16 it is 25mm, for Super 8mm it is about 15mm. I know it is MUCH more complex than that, but the above is fine to get you an idea. Any shorter focal length is wide(r) angle and any longer focal length is more towards telephoto.
Hope this helps. Please feel free to shoot if you have any further questions.
@@truefilm6991 gotcha gotcha, wow a lot to learn. thank you !
You conserve the loop formers ?
I took out the loop formers. These were added to the original K-1 and K-2 design, so the camera works perfectly fine without these. Also: the threads lost their original elasticity, so they don't work as they once did. This is my personal opinion: the loop formers add nothing and can foul the film since you never know if they retract sufficiently once the lid is closed. Without these, you know exactly what's going on inside the camera before closing the lid. Thanks for commenting.
@@truefilm6991 I recently bought a K3. This video was very useful. Thanks for the info.
@@Impermeabilizados congrats for your K-3! More in-depth information on this camera on its way.