All of the stuff that you have done in most of your videos are extremely helpful. Some of them I just enjoy watching because I can't use them. I'm going to have to fly you to Texas to help me do a lot of things. Let me know when you need a ticket. Lol
You should plug the live wire side to the relay instead of the neutral. That way when the circuit is open, the live side won't be power and it's much secure. Otherwise the current could still make it's way to the natural ground (like sticking a fork on the live side of the outlets :P ) whether the relay is on or off.
Yes! Also, please mount the circuit in a junction box to keep fingers away from the AC connections. If it's a metal box, ensure it's grounded properly. A plastic project or junction box could also be a good choice. Secure the cables so that if they're pulled hard (e.g., by somebody tripping over it), the strain is taken by the box rather than the screw terminals. If you're not experienced with AC, please get a friend who is to help you out. Note that these kinds of relay boards can also be used with DC props. If you have a store-bought prop with a "Try Me" button, you can cut the button off the wires and connect them to the COM and NO terminals. When the relay is activated briefly, the prop will think its try-me button was pressed.
I have returned two separate orders because they would not activate animatronics. 3 of 5 boards were bad. One was stuck on T2 . Two had short in the circuit board. I wish it was a forum on these time relay modules
Thank you for the video. As an electrician I would advise you to never break the neutral/ground ( - ) in a 120v circuit as shown at 1:03 in your video as this could cause a deadly situation. Always break the hot ( + ) and keep your neutral/ground ( - ) constant.
Excellent idea. You could also use a D1 mini with a relay shield. It would give you a lot more flexibility/programmability and would cost about the same, depending on where you buy them.
I used this to add a triggered sequence of white vehicle strobe lights with a single 12 VDC power supply to minimize shock risk. The 1 Female to 4 Male Power Splitter Cables (descriptions often say Security CCTV) let me use one 12 VDC power supply to run the timer, the relay side for the strobes, and the PIR sensor.
One powers the relay timer, the other powers the prop. The relay timer requires less power than the prop which is why you can’t just plug the prop into the timer directly. The timer relay can, however, interrupt the current going to the prop causing it to start/stop at whatever interval you set it to.
I don’t recall the specific rpm of that motor, but it’s a “synchronous motor” and they come in a bunch of different speeds. I probably got this one off eBay or AliExpress, but you can find them on Amazon as well.
Hi there! Bringing the comments back to life after a year haha so I noticed this module has a "trigger" port. What I want to do is cut a "step pad" trigger wire and place it on the trigger port of this and have this trigger my animatronic function every "X" minutes. Is this possible with this? I essentially wouldn't be using any of the ports on the left side, I presume.
Big fan, keep up the great work, however- that open board sitting on a table made me super nervous, especially without a junction box and 120v a finger slip away.
Just a *little* more effort and an esp8266 5v relay would be much better. Flash with tasmota and it will operate from a 5v USB powerbank, switching mains voltage, and gives you a simple localhost webpage to turn on and off, as well as more complex options (e.g. Home Assistant automations, node red etc.) Costs about $5 off Amazon. Example usage; I hooked mines up to the "remote" switch of a cheap fog machine, so I could watch Halloween guests arrive on the home security & trigger the fog machine that was tucked away inside a coffin.
Agreed Derek, but it's a good learning curve!! I like think that can be powered with my power banks as they are solar powered as well so good idea, thanks Dave!
Thanks for this, I haven’t done much with electronics beyond simple switches and LEDs, but I’m looking at doing moving things for videos. This looks more promising without having to know a bunch of code. 😅
Battery powered props? You'd need to convert them to AC power first and then you could use something like a PicoBoo controller. But not without changing how they're powered. I have a video on converting battery props to wall power. You should check it out: ruclips.net/video/WwxUZAYXaUs/видео.html
Could this also be used to close the circuit of something like the "Try Me" buttons on Halloween props to start the animation/action and then after a delay of however long the animation/action is, to trigger it again?
New to creating new items from scratch but want to start in to this. Could you suggest some tips for this particular module on how it could be hooked up to sound? For example, connecting it to an MP3 player board (like ones AliExpress sell for $2) ? ALSO - if you unplug the power, does it reset and you have to go the steps of re-assigning the mode / delays all over again? or when you set that, does it store and and remember it between uses?
I don’t think this timer would work with an MP3 player board, since it’s not designed for one. As for the power, it keeps the program until you change it, regardless of whether it’s powered on or not.
Your videos are great and have been super helpful!! I can't seem to find one pertaining to audio though (maybe I missed it?), and was curious how you manage that? I have solutions for the ambient sounds, but using this prop controller as an example - how do you get your audio to play in sync with the prop activating? I've had a hard time finding a good solution for this.... Would love your insight!
My audio runs independent of my props, with the exception of the radio prop, which has its own dedicated controller. If you’re looking for motion & sound, I’d check out frightprops.com and their picoboo controllers.
I'm looking for something to trigger a small motor for a magic trick, and was wondering if this would be the thing, or if something else would be even better. Ideally I would like to have a remote of some kind to trigger the motor, and have it run on some form of battery so I don't have to have a cable running from the table it's on. Any thoughts?
They make little remote relays. You can get them in 1 2 4 relay configurations and the remote is about the size of a car key fob. Cost about $5 from China. They need 12v power to run them and can be wired to use that 12v to power thing or with separate power supply. 12v power pack could do both if you can get a 12v motor.
All of the stuff that you have done in most of your videos are extremely helpful. Some of them I just enjoy watching because I can't use them. I'm going to have to fly you to Texas to help me do a lot of things. Let me know when you need a ticket. Lol
Great find Derek and perfect timing!! I need a few of these for the next haunt 👻project I'm working on. Thx, bro!!!👊
The frm01 is awesome!! Another fantastic timer module is the XY-LJ02. I tend to use these a bit more often
I’ll have to check that one out
You should plug the live wire side to the relay instead of the neutral. That way when the circuit is open, the live side won't be power and it's much secure. Otherwise the current could still make it's way to the natural ground (like sticking a fork on the live side of the outlets :P ) whether the relay is on or off.
Also Great vid !
Yes! Also, please mount the circuit in a junction box to keep fingers away from the AC connections. If it's a metal box, ensure it's grounded properly. A plastic project or junction box could also be a good choice. Secure the cables so that if they're pulled hard (e.g., by somebody tripping over it), the strain is taken by the box rather than the screw terminals. If you're not experienced with AC, please get a friend who is to help you out.
Note that these kinds of relay boards can also be used with DC props. If you have a store-bought prop with a "Try Me" button, you can cut the button off the wires and connect them to the COM and NO terminals. When the relay is activated briefly, the prop will think its try-me button was pressed.
I have returned two separate orders because they would not activate animatronics. 3 of 5 boards were bad. One was stuck on T2 . Two had short in the circuit board. I wish it was a forum on these time relay modules
That sucks. I’m sorry to hear you’ve had problems with them.
Thank you for the video. As an electrician I would advise you to never break the neutral/ground ( - ) in a 120v circuit as shown at 1:03 in your video as this could cause a deadly situation. Always break the hot ( + ) and keep your neutral/ground ( - ) constant.
Thanks for the tips!
Ive heard you mention Arduino in other videos.... could you do an explainer on what it is and how it works?
As soon as I fully understand , absolutely. LOL
Nice find Derek!
Great find, could be very useful. Love your channel!
You should be switching the hot leg not the neutral....for safety.
Good to know
I am trying to use this with a PIR to run a wiper motor for 10 seconds. But cannot find a mode that will work.
Excellent idea. You could also use a D1 mini with a relay shield. It would give you a lot more flexibility/programmability and would cost about the same, depending on where you buy them.
I got tow of these on your recommendation I can't say thank you enough as you said on a budget this is the best!!!!!!!!!
How did you get it to reverse polarity to the motor?
Synchronous motors change direction every time current is applied. So you’ll want to use a different motor if you need it to reverse.
I used this to add a triggered sequence of white vehicle strobe lights with a single 12 VDC power supply to minimize shock risk. The 1 Female to 4 Male Power Splitter Cables (descriptions often say Security CCTV) let me use one 12 VDC power supply to run the timer, the relay side for the strobes, and the PIR sensor.
I'm curious how you wired the PIR sensor
Very excited by this one - just used the link & ordered a couple controllers. We've got several animated props that can be improved with this.
Being brand new at animation, could you put out some links to servo motors that would work with this?
That’s outside of my knowledge base, unfortunately.
So I am the only person who still doesn't understand how this is wired up? Why are there multiple 120v plugs??
One powers the relay timer, the other powers the prop. The relay timer requires less power than the prop which is why you can’t just plug the prop into the timer directly. The timer relay can, however, interrupt the current going to the prop causing it to start/stop at whatever interval you set it to.
Super video, Just be carful not to go over the amps, the relay says 10 amps but the tracing on the board is much less. Too many amps = FIRE
Thanks for the info!
Is there a controller that will have a haunt, i.e. skull, eyes, etc..... to follow or track a person's, movement in it's vicinity or field?
Possibly. You may be able to use multiple PIR sensors to track movement, although it could get confused if multiple people are in range of the sensor.
Great video - can you please share a link to the AC motor you are using?
I don’t recall the specific rpm of that motor, but it’s a “synchronous motor” and they come in a bunch of different speeds. I probably got this one off eBay or AliExpress, but you can find them on Amazon as well.
@@VanOaksProps thank you so much
Hi there! Bringing the comments back to life after a year haha so I noticed this module has a "trigger" port. What I want to do is cut a "step pad" trigger wire and place it on the trigger port of this and have this trigger my animatronic function every "X" minutes. Is this possible with this? I essentially wouldn't be using any of the ports on the left side, I presume.
I believe so
Big fan, keep up the great work, however- that open board sitting on a table made me super nervous, especially without a junction box and 120v a finger slip away.
Just a *little* more effort and an esp8266 5v relay would be much better.
Flash with tasmota and it will operate from a 5v USB powerbank, switching mains voltage, and gives you a simple localhost webpage to turn on and off, as well as more complex options (e.g. Home Assistant automations, node red etc.)
Costs about $5 off Amazon.
Example usage; I hooked mines up to the "remote" switch of a cheap fog machine, so I could watch Halloween guests arrive on the home security & trigger the fog machine that was tucked away inside a coffin.
True, but you’d need to be much more fluent with electronics.
Agreed Derek, but it's a good learning curve!! I like think that can be powered with my power banks as they are solar powered as well so good idea, thanks Dave!
You have the white wire labeled as “ground” - shouldn’t this be “neutral”? At least on the 120 side?
Ack! You’re right.
Yes, that is the neutral. For those of you who don't know what that is.... it is generally the WHITE wire.
@@VanOaksProps Thank you for your videos. they are very informative and creative. you do an excellent job.
Thanks for this, I haven’t done much with electronics beyond simple switches and LEDs, but I’m looking at doing moving things for videos. This looks more promising without having to know a bunch of code. 😅
Do you recommend any device that can hook togather a battery scene with 6 to 7 items
Battery powered props? You'd need to convert them to AC power first and then you could use something like a PicoBoo controller. But not without changing how they're powered. I have a video on converting battery props to wall power. You should check it out: ruclips.net/video/WwxUZAYXaUs/видео.html
Will this work with pneumatics?
It should work with anything that runs off wall power.
Could this also be used to close the circuit of something like the "Try Me" buttons on Halloween props to start the animation/action and then after a delay of however long the animation/action is, to trigger it again?
Good question. I don't know the answer off the top of my head, but in theory I can't see why it couldn't.
Thank you! I have deer motor crying out for a purpose!
Does it work with Pneumatics
Great question. I haven't tested it, but I can't see why it wouldn't.
The things I imagine in me head if I had a controller for my sounds, animatronics and such.
Hi Derek. Do you know if there are any other places to buy prop controllers other than Frightprops?
Monsterguts.com is another
@@VanOaksProps Thanks for the info Derek... love your videos.
New to creating new items from scratch but want to start in to this. Could you suggest some tips for this particular module on how it could be hooked up to sound? For example, connecting it to an MP3 player board (like ones AliExpress sell for $2) ?
ALSO - if you unplug the power, does it reset and you have to go the steps of re-assigning the mode / delays all over again? or when you set that, does it store and and remember it between uses?
I don’t think this timer would work with an MP3 player board, since it’s not designed for one. As for the power, it keeps the program until you change it, regardless of whether it’s powered on or not.
Your videos are great and have been super helpful!! I can't seem to find one pertaining to audio though (maybe I missed it?), and was curious how you manage that? I have solutions for the ambient sounds, but using this prop controller as an example - how do you get your audio to play in sync with the prop activating? I've had a hard time finding a good solution for this.... Would love your insight!
My audio runs independent of my props, with the exception of the radio prop, which has its own dedicated controller. If you’re looking for motion & sound, I’d check out frightprops.com and their picoboo controllers.
Great idea for repurposing this module.
You also labeled hot ( 120vac) as positive. Which it’s not.
In my experience, when presented with black & red wiring, red is positive and black is negative.
Will it work in countries that have 240V outlets, eg I'm in Australia!
Yes. That’s the maximum voltage the relay can handle.
What power supply do you use for the relay timer?
This one: amzn.to/46yBYlu
@@VanOaksProps OK the manual show d 12v and less than 50ma this is. It too much current for the device at 5amps?
You sir are a damn wizard! Thank you for this. So many ideas
How could I add more outputs and how do I program
You're limited to one output and the manual is linked in the video description.
@@VanOaksProps oh ok thank you
Where is the info for ordering? I want to get some now!
All links are in the video description.
I'm looking for something to trigger a small motor for a magic trick, and was wondering if this would be the thing, or if something else would be even better. Ideally I would like to have a remote of some kind to trigger the motor, and have it run on some form of battery so I don't have to have a cable running from the table it's on. Any thoughts?
Depends on the required power for the small motor.
They make little remote relays. You can get them in 1 2 4 relay configurations and the remote is about the size of a car key fob. Cost about $5 from China. They need 12v power to run them and can be wired to use that 12v to power thing or with separate power supply. 12v power pack could do both if you can get a 12v motor.
Great find! Thanks Derek.
Where can I buy this
There's links in the video description.
This looks awesome… does it hold its programming when disconnected from the 12v supply?
It does!
Thats a cool little module. thanks for sharing!
You bet
At'a boy Derek! Cheers to anotha awesome vid! 🎉🎉🎉🤘
Thanks buddy!
What a useful idea thanks. Would be nice if you made a few things using this to show different variations.
The applications are endless. Anything that benefits from being started and stopped will work with this device.
Thank you this is exactly what I needed
Glad I could help
I’m here! Need this device.
Great Video Derek 🤙🏻
Cool!!! Thanks!!!!! 👍