How To Replace Your UFH Manifold Flow Meter
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2021
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In this video, we give a quick tutorial on how to replace the manifold flow meter of your underfloor heating system. Whether the flow meter on your UFH manifold is leaking or damaged, just follow these steps for easy installation.
The first thing you’ll want to do is make sure your underfloor heating system is turned off. Then, isolate the UFH manifold by turning off the isolation points on top and bottom.
Next, depressurise the manifold using the fill and vent ports. If you just remove the key from the fill and vent ports, you can connect a washing machine hose and discharge it into a bucket.
Once you’ve depressurised the manifold, all you have to do is lift off the cap and use a spanner to remove the manifold flow meter and install the new one. Make sure that the flow meter going into the UFH manifold is the same type.
After installing the new flow meter, tighten it with a spanner, close the fill and vent port, and remove the hose pipe. Reinstate the flow and return. Finally, bleed the manifold of your underfloor heating system.
It’s also important to set the flow rate for the loop length. For this, you can follow the simple instructions in the 2021Homeowner’ss Pack from Multipipe. Just remove the cap and open the manifold flow meter to achieve the desired flow rate on your UFH manifold, and you're done!
For more videos like this, visit our playlist of instructional MLCP videos here: • How To Videos - Multipipe
Visit multipipe.co.uk/ for more product information and quotes.
Email info@multipipe.co.uk for any further enquiries, or give us a call at 01245 227 630 
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Thank you for the very helpful “How to” series of videos. Do you have a video of “How to” replace the UFH pump which is connected to the flow and return manifolds?
Not yet! but thanks for the video suggestion we will add it to our list.
Thank you very much. Very helpful video.
Glad it was helpful!
Really nice videos, I have ufh system, I'd like to ask you, in this video you are bleeding the water supply manifold to take the air I guess, would it work( I mean bleeding the manifold) for the return manifold when you change pin valve in the return tube.thanks
Hello your video is very clear, thank you! I've an issue with my UFH hope you could give some advice. I've two manifolds on ground and first floor and no radiators apart from tower rail in the toilet. The boiler temperature is set to 65. The one downstair seems to have some issues - if i change the temperature to 55 or above in blending value, the flows become very slow, i.e.
We are glad you like the video's, I am unsure how your system is plumbed but when you open the valve further and get a flow drop this normally indicated the boiler pump and the UFH pump are not inline. I would get it checked that the flow and return pipe from the boiler is plumbed the correct way around. Either that or it might be an issue with the blending valve being blocked.
Hi all, I just happened to find your channel. It became chilly outside and I just realized that one of the rooms are significantly colder than the thermostate would imply. I checked the manifold and the circuit does not seem to be working - the flow meter seems empty and filled with air. Could it be that one of the circles are not filled with water but the others go perfectly fine? I exchanged the actuators if that caused any troubles but it does not seem to be the problem. I did not dare to change the flow meters yet, I thought im gonna ask someone clever first. Thanks in advance!
Thanks for your message. I would say that if the system has previously worked, the chance of an airlock is slim. As for air in the flowmeter, this is very common as usually air cannot escape the top of the meter, but this does not affect its performance. What you need to look for is there usually is a coloured disc that floats up and down the meter indicating the flow rate you have. Ideally, this needs to be around 2l/m. If there is no flow and you have replaced the thermostat, then check the actuator pin (under the actuator) is moving up and down and not stuck down. Next, check that the thermostat is working by sending a signal to open the actuator (the actuator takes around 5 minutes to open). If you do have flow, then I would probably say the UFH is working, but it might be the room is losing more heat than the UFH can produce or is unbalanced.
@@MultipipeLtd Thanks a lot for your response, much appreciated, very helpful!
Hello!
How do you find the proper flow rate of an circuit?
Many thanks!
Usually, this is done as part of the design work of the UFH company, but very basically, it is based on the formula m=Q/CDelta T. In the example, we assume a 1kW circuit, we use 4.182 as C (specific heat capacity of water)and the delta T between your flow and return for the water (typically) 7.5 so: 1(Q)/(4.182(C)x7.5(DeltaT)) = 0.0319l/s x 60 for L/min 1.93 to set = rounded to the nearest 0.25 l/min increment. I hope this helps.
@@MultipipeLtd thank your for your answer.
I'm trying to do some DIY work in my new home and unfortunately I don't know the specifications of any circuit and I don't even know where are they going(kitchen, bedroom...)
I would say in that case set the flowmeters to 2 l/min and that should be ok. (its a bit rough but will work)
Hi. I've done everything in the video (isolated, pressure, etc) but there's still water in the flow meter (all 4). Would unscrewing it release all the water?
Always ignore any water that sits in the flow meter this does not affect the system in anyway you should take you reading from the plunger not the water level. (the reason water ends up in the meter is purely because air compresses so pushes water into the glass higher the pressure more water in the glass).
@@MultipipeLtd Thank you :-)
👉 Got any questions about this video? Feel free to leave them in the comments below.
How can well stop sticking Actuator pins Always getting stuck with the pin down is there any way of stopping this re-occurring all the time
@@Caffro if they are sticking this is normally the pin shaft has build-up causing it to stick. watch our pin replacement video posted in August to get them out to check. But they might need replacing. if you do get build-up you need to get the system treated for limescale prevention.
@@MultipipeLtd thanks It’s normally when the underfloor heating has been off a long period of time and the actuator as in the off position when actuator then turned on and lift up the pin stays down The systems was built two years ago How often would you say they would need replacing
Hi I have 2 manifolds one seems to be working ok but I can’t get 3 out of 5 rooms to heat on the other manifold, it’s a uponor system, signals are coming from all stats, I can hear them click and I can see the window displays open and close on the actuators, I had issues with these and the pins were stuck so I freed them out and all is good, except I still struggle to get heat, there seems like a lot of gushing through the manifold like air and the flow metres are bouncing on the display tubes, I’ve tried changing the pump settings but no change, would there be air in the system or sticky metres ?
@@Thedar561 when flow meter bounce that is a sure sign of a lot of air in the system. it is worth following our video on filling your UFH system. if that still fails get in contact with their support team as they should be able to help.