Thanks for doing the video. I've owned a 1994 E36 with M50tu engine for 16 years so experienced erratic idle several times . The most common cause is the cracked hose you found. I clean the cracked end with 70% rubbing alcohol , let it dry 15 minutes then seal the cracks with 3M weatherstrip adhesive. After 30 minutes dry time wrap a one inch wide piece of gorilla brand duct tape around the end about 3-4 wraps then install and reclamp with a lined stainless steel hose clamp. Other causes in order are the other hose next to it falling off , carbon build-up where throttle flap touches throttle body ( use carb cleaner sparingly with rag to remove build-up), cracks underneath that L-shaped air boot , dirty ICV , failing 02 sensor, dirty/failing mass air flow device or oil seepage past failing o-rings under valve cover that interferes with high voltage transfer from coil pack to spark plug. Using fuel system cleaner in gas tank at every oil change seems to prolong idle surge interval. Loose or wrong gas cap or oil filler cap can affect idle quality too.
My e36 is having this same problem and I just brought it to the shop. They are working on it. Great video man. Simple to follow. Unfortunately, I’m living in Thailand and tenants are not allowed to work on cars around the condominium.
helped a lot ! my 97 528i was having some idling issues and still has a little but I’m pretty confident I know what it is so it feels good to cross this off the list so I don’t need to worry about it for a while. greatly appreciated!
Thanks for your awesome videos! I was having issues with the idle on my e36 and I had the exact same problems. ICV hose was cracked and ICV was dirty. Also that 90 degree throttle plate that's normally open is actually for traction control I found out. It's normally open but when the ACS+T kicks in, it will shut that valve to reduce RPMs.
I have a 97 Z3 with 2.8L engine. I had a hunting idle once at operating temp. The RPM would go from about 1500 to about 3000 by itself, over and over. I did find leaks in the intake boot and tube to the idle control valve and replaced those parts but again after a couple days of driving to work and back, it started that unsafe idle hunting again. I ran codes and found a PO116, coolant sensor fault. I replaced it and so far it has not given problems. Can this part create the crazy idle problem I was experiencing?
My fix on my E36 m3 idles above 2000 RPM. Rpm does not come down if you rev it. It’s bcuz The CCV crankcase that plugs into the intake manifold was loose so on my car. my suggestion is to check for all the vacuum lines and locations for leak.
I have the m50b25 and ecs says that part doesn’t fit even know it looks exactly the same as mine and mine has a slit in it just like your old one and I’m having a rough idle after I changed my fuel filter...
Problem: I just found this AFTER I replaced the Air intake boot and the hose. Instead of pulling the 'throttle valve'', I disconnected the throttle and cruse control cables....now when starting the engine I have WOT. 1998 E36 323iC. Can you help?? thanks
+El Patrone I have never seen this before maybe disconnect your battery and let the computer reset for about 15 minutes. Only disconnect the negative terminal. After 15mins reconnect and see if that helps. If not check the tension on your throttle and also check the throttle position sensor to see if it was knocked loose or anything looks out of order. There may be a travel nut that was accidentally hit and is keeping your throttle wide open.
@@AutOdometer Fuel preassure regulator. Yes, the engine would be rich all the time. You should replace that vacuum line with a new one. And if you disconnect that line when the engine is running, and see fuel coming out of it (even a little bit) you should also replace the FPR.
My z3 m had the exact rough idle and it would shut down if I didn’t press the gas. Replacing the cracked icv hose was the solution. The only issue is that the car has the service engine soon and I need a tool to delete that and have it pass smog.
What’s your idle at? Today while coming to a stop, my rpms started bouncing between 500 to 700 until I started to go, it’s never done that but it does have a bit of a shaky idle, not too noticeable. I did the digital tac on it today and it’s bouncing between 650 and 710 and it’s never a steady idle and would go down to 640 coming to a stop. No visible cracks but haven’t checked it thoroughly. Good video!
Hi i have a m52tub28 it has a problem when i press the gas pedal it goes up to 2500 rpm then dies and goes up to 2500 rpm agian. I have changed the fuel pump and filter then it ran good for 2 weeks and now it does it agian i checked the fuel pressure. And its 58psi both on the New pump and the old. All coils are good. Do You have Any idea why it does that eml and check engine light is on.
@@TheZulajin but start with check fuel pressure its should be between 50-60 psi. After that check the intake side for leaks at idle controle valve and so on im sure Your problem is some where around that :) my throttle body was the problem
My car has exactly the same crack on that icv hose, but my car idles just fine when cold, but it goes to 1250rpm when all warmed up, weird. Thanks for the video.
@@normandavid9324 No, problem still there, new lambda sensor did not help, and ICV is clean... I am out of options... the A/C has been removed from my car so Im ruling that out also. :(
@@normandavid9324 CO settings? I dont know what that is. And my M50tu25b doesnt have PCV (CCV). Next in line is a mass airflow sensor and checking the exhaust for leaks. Will keep you posted ✌
I replaced that hose mine had a crack in it the car still won't idle if you barely rest your foot on the gas you can keep it around 800 RPMs soon as you take your foot off it drops to four and dies out
First I’d like to say great video, and was wondering where you bought that hose cuz mine is cracked pretty bad, just wondering if you can direct me to a link, I’ve already changed the air cleaner intake hose which was totally mutilated, but I still have some pretty bad rough idle action so hopefully changing that damn hose fixes it.. btw I drive a 97 328i
If you own a BMW E36 you might want to check out my playlist. It has a lot of repairs I've done. ruclips.net/p/PLBswVpqDrWxTdr3dTAiUbxFVYhqyYIi_z
Thanks for doing the video. I've owned a 1994 E36 with M50tu engine for 16 years so experienced erratic idle several times . The most common cause is the cracked hose you found. I clean the cracked end with 70% rubbing alcohol , let it dry 15 minutes then seal the cracks with 3M weatherstrip adhesive. After 30 minutes dry time wrap a one inch wide piece of gorilla brand duct tape around the end about 3-4 wraps then install and reclamp with a lined stainless steel hose clamp. Other causes in order are the other hose next to it falling off , carbon build-up where throttle flap touches throttle body ( use carb cleaner sparingly with rag to remove build-up), cracks underneath that L-shaped air boot , dirty ICV , failing 02 sensor, dirty/failing mass air flow device or oil seepage past failing o-rings under valve cover that interferes with high voltage transfer from coil pack to spark plug. Using fuel system cleaner in gas tank at every oil change seems to prolong idle surge interval. Loose or wrong gas cap or oil filler cap can affect idle quality too.
My e36 is having this same problem and I just brought it to the shop. They are working on it. Great video man. Simple to follow. Unfortunately, I’m living in Thailand and tenants are not allowed to work on cars around the condominium.
helped a lot ! my 97 528i was having some idling issues and still has a little but I’m pretty confident I know what it is so it feels good to cross this off the list so I don’t need to worry about it for a while. greatly appreciated!
Thanks for this. I needed to find the location on our E36 as just glancing it looked buried. This is a very informative video.
Thanks for your awesome videos! I was having issues with the idle on my e36 and I had the exact same problems. ICV hose was cracked and ICV was dirty. Also that 90 degree throttle plate that's normally open is actually for traction control I found out. It's normally open but when the ACS+T kicks in, it will shut that valve to reduce RPMs.
Oh wow thanks for sharing that about the traction control I didn’t know!
Got a part number for the hose? :)
I have a 97 Z3 with 2.8L engine. I had a hunting idle once at operating temp. The RPM would go from about 1500 to about 3000 by itself, over and over. I did find leaks in the intake boot and tube to the idle control valve and replaced those parts but again after a couple days of driving to work and back, it started that unsafe idle hunting again. I ran codes and found a PO116, coolant sensor fault. I replaced it and so far it has not given problems. Can this part create the crazy idle problem I was experiencing?
I have a m42 318ti that sounds like its cammed at idle and sometimes jumps to 1300rpms could this be the issue, much appreciated!
I have the same problem, have you fixed the problem?
@@LangAndrei nah but it's probably a pcv
My fix on my E36 m3 idles above 2000 RPM. Rpm does not come down if you rev it. It’s bcuz The CCV crankcase that plugs into the intake manifold was loose so on my car. my suggestion is to check for all the vacuum lines and locations for leak.
Can you tell me we’re the gas filter vacuum hose goes plug in to mines has a screw on it not sure why or where it goes
I have the m50b25 and ecs says that part doesn’t fit even know it looks exactly the same as mine and mine has a slit in it just like your old one and I’m having a rough idle after I changed my fuel filter...
Problem: I just found this AFTER I replaced the Air intake boot and the hose. Instead of pulling the 'throttle valve'', I disconnected the throttle and cruse control cables....now when starting the engine I have WOT. 1998 E36 323iC. Can you help?? thanks
+El Patrone I have never seen this before maybe disconnect your battery and let the computer reset for about 15 minutes. Only disconnect the negative terminal. After 15mins reconnect and see if that helps. If not check the tension on your throttle and also check the throttle position sensor to see if it was knocked loose or anything looks out of order. There may be a travel nut that was accidentally hit and is keeping your throttle wide open.
Got it...was adjusting the upper cam...should have been with the lower cam cable screw. Now to fine tune for correct RPM. Thanks for your quick reply.
Would the FPR small skinny hose missing cause a erratic idle?
I could I’m not sure what you mean by FPR
@@AutOdometer Fuel preassure regulator.
Yes, the engine would be rich all the time. You should replace that vacuum line with a new one. And if you disconnect that line when the engine is running, and see fuel coming out of it (even a little bit) you should also replace the FPR.
Your video is really good sir. Very well detailed. Thanks alot. New subscriber here
mine is totally ripped off and car shuts down on idle, but iff i disconnect the air flow sensor it runs
My z3 m had the exact rough idle and it would shut down if I didn’t press the gas. Replacing the cracked icv hose was the solution. The only issue is that the car has the service engine soon and I need a tool to delete that and have it pass smog.
What’s your idle at? Today while coming to a stop, my rpms started bouncing between 500 to 700 until I started to go, it’s never done that but it does have a bit of a shaky idle, not too noticeable. I did the digital tac on it today and it’s bouncing between 650 and 710 and it’s never a steady idle and would go down to 640 coming to a stop. No visible cracks but haven’t checked it thoroughly. Good video!
Francisco Gonzalez Did you find a solution? I have the same problem with my e36
Hi i have a m52tub28 it has a problem when i press the gas pedal it goes up to 2500 rpm then dies and goes up to 2500 rpm agian. I have changed the fuel pump and filter then it ran good for 2 weeks and now it does it agian i checked the fuel pressure. And its 58psi both on the New pump and the old. All coils are good. Do You have Any idea why it does that eml and check engine light is on.
@@TheZulajin i fixed it yestoday it was the throttle body the valve did now open not it runs like New agian :)
@@TheZulajin but start with check fuel pressure its should be between 50-60 psi. After that check the intake side for leaks at idle controle valve and so on im sure Your problem is some where around that :) my throttle body was the problem
My car has exactly the same crack on that icv hose, but my car idles just fine when cold, but it goes to 1250rpm when all warmed up, weird. Thanks for the video.
i have same problem like you, did you have fixed your problem?
and that happen when i turn on my air conditioner
@@normandavid9324 No, problem still there, new lambda sensor did not help, and ICV is clean... I am out of options... the A/C has been removed from my car so Im ruling that out also. :(
@@moroleonaers5479 how about CO setting? or new PCV? i also changed and clean my airmess, icv, and throttle body, but still no fixed.
@@normandavid9324 CO settings? I dont know what that is. And my M50tu25b doesnt have PCV (CCV). Next in line is a mass airflow sensor and checking the exhaust for leaks. Will keep you posted ✌
Tube code plz?
my car died on me while driving near my house and i saw that my boot intake was ripped so i replace it ! but my car still wont start ?
try resting the system or unplug battery over night , check the hoes and boot
Camshaft sensor
whats the part number?
I replaced that hose mine had a crack in it the car still won't idle if you barely rest your foot on the gas you can keep it around 800 RPMs soon as you take your foot off it drops to four and dies out
Also experiencing the same issue
First I’d like to say great video, and was wondering where you bought that hose cuz mine is cracked pretty bad, just wondering if you can direct me to a link, I’ve already changed the air cleaner intake hose which was totally mutilated, but I still have some pretty bad rough idle action so hopefully changing that damn hose fixes it.. btw I drive a 97 328i
Altier1234 hey did your check engine light come on when ur hose was leaking.
Oem part number?
Gates emh 197 is the parts num
Where did you get the hose from
Amazon and i should have a link in the description to the exact part
316i idle high& low
No part #
Who sold you that forgot a piece, that's why it always cranks. Originally there s a plastic large clamp on that side