I was a bodysurfer in the 70s, Avila Beach.. thought I was dead once.. a large mass came in beside me.. I got wrapped in kelp.. made to shore to find I washed up with a dead seal.. wrapped in kelp
Excellent decision for you to not even question the ability of the 2 struggling. Pure angelic act. Bravo. Maybe that's why you were there and they will have another beautiful experience with the ocean because you helped calm them down and get safe.
It was weird, as soon as I saw the kid I knew it was my responsibility to save him. I am positive that was why I drove 2 hours to surf there, cause the waves were not
There's a pipe near the rock that used to pump out warm water - it looks like it closed in 2014, though... the water that was used to cool down the power plant and if you paddled out there it was a lot warmer (also attracted stingrays around there) so you could acclimate to the cold on the paddle out. I just decided to move to warmer water, also an option...
What a great video...loved watching! The amazing rescue, beautiful camp spot and incredible surf shots and spots! As always, much appreciation for your "capture" of your life well lived!!!! XO
My very 1st time surfing had a run in with a barnacle covered pier,it freaked me out so bad I didn't try surfing again for another year,that was 1971. I'm still fully addicted to surfing at age 64 in 2021.
This my first encounter with a barnacle covered pier, it was super intense.... as yes pretty freaky. it makes me stoked to hear your still surfing..... Yeew 🤙🏻
I love the idea of the surfer life. You are living it well buddy! Looks like those waters were pretty tiring tho....I've only been surfing a few times and found it sooo tiring! 😆
Thank you 🤙 yeah I surf almost every day for 3-6 hours a day minimum so I stay in pretty good shape. 😉 when it’s choppy like that it’s a lot more work though.
Dude I clean up litter here at Pismo and think I seen you on the beach! Now the crazy part..I just stumbled upon your video by random luck, any way new subscriber! :)
Yo when you paddle out at the rock just hug the rocks on the left, next to the lifeguard tower. Virtually no waves to duck dive cause of the little cove
You gotta ride the rip current out at morrow closer to the rock side by the parking lot. Saves a lot of energy getting out. Same with being close to the pier to get out at Pismo. I made that mistake for 2 days before the locals told me how to get out at pismo
Good to know, I knew about the pier at pismo but it was super crowded by the rock so I just surfed in front of the river mouth. Next time I’m definitely gonna go by the rock though 🙏
I came close to not making out of the water some years back at ventura pier . The waves were breaking over the front top of the pier but I was nowhere near the pier when I first made it to the line up at the point above c street . It was really big . I struggled to catch a wave and was not in a good mental position but I kept trying and wore myself out physically as it took a lot of effort to maintain location as the current that was pulling you to the pier was really strong . I should have just paddled in before I became completely exhausted but did not want to give up ( stubborn ) so I got closer and closer to the pier till I reached a point of maybe 25 yards from it and realized a big set was coming in that crashed over the top of the pier . I knew I needed to get through that pier before the whitewash was going to slam my body on the barnacle filed pilings . So I put all I had to paddle through the pier and just barely making it though before the whitewash hit me . I remember looking back at my feet seeing I had made it through . I was able to paddle in from there . My friend I went out with was going to call search and rescue as it was getting dark as I walked up the walkway to see him completely exhausted . The stories we can tell our grandchildren if we survive . This young lad will have a story to tell of not being to smart like me
That’s crazy dude! My leash snapped one time last winter at the end of ventura point .. wasn’t as big as what you went thru but I got washed almost to the pier.. scary experience and never got my board back lol
As a local I see more surfing on the Cayucos side of Morro Bay than in Pismo, generally, unless it's big waves. During big waves I've seen some crazy ppl jumping off the pier to surf Haha Looks like you enjoyed your time.
Hi, I've been following you since 2 months and everything in your videos has always been spectacular. The sessions are great, the quality is fantastic... this channel is absolutely brilliant and you helped me a lot with the majority of my curiosities about the world of surfing, thank you so much. Anyway, I would like to make a suggestion (if it's not a problem): I'm convinced that you can add a really funny video on your channel to show some of the funniest things happened while surfing or swimming, it can be something like a "oops and bloopers" compilation. For example, you could make a compilation of all of the moments where you or your friends get "caught" on video while peeing in the water (my uncle relieved himself in a surfing session while he was waiting for a wave and that was hilarious, he always says there are 2 types of surfers and swimmers: those who pee in the water and those who lie), you can also include those moments in the future videos just to keep having a bit of humour on your channel, you can use both old and new clips what do you think? I'd be so so happy to watch it, let me know, bye!
The more I think about it the more it trips me out how lucky I was to be there and able to help in that situation with the crazy rip tides and current, and yes I’m definitely a little ocd about my wax 🤣
Yea ive been on both sides of a few rescues..nothing too serious, mainly board loss and gassed out..luckily theres was plenty boards to grab onto as I swam from board to board towards my board..)...yea ya wax on is a work of art..)
"not bad for a free camping" \o/ - if you cross that "river" on the rock, walk a bit you take great waves by that pier with no crowd! do that and make a video please! cheers
Spy glass for sure, Sandspit isn’t breaking like it should. Too much sand is stuck there right now and has been for way too long. We need a big south Swell
@@LorenBird it was 10' + and lots of close outs, i Got Dragged and my Leash got ripped off my leg, Hard time getting back in, Looked for a Hr + Looked out on the jetty, Sea was white and frothy! Hard to See anything on the Water, Never Seen My Fav Rusty Board Again. My Buddy Felt so Bad he let me use his to Paddle Back across the Morro Bay Harbor Mouth, He swam. Never forgot that Rusty! I just Ordered a Custom Rusty a week ago! Rush Order! $$ Being Built right Now! Almost the same board but diff colors. Stoked!!
It’s super cool seeing you surf the local spots! It’s funny you said at the rock “cold sharky water” last week I was out there and saw a huge white!
Thanks Roman, dude that's super gnarly but I don't doubt it one bit. I know cold Sharky water when I see it.
Did you freak out
Fast forward shark attack 3 months ago
@@LorenBird this comment didn’t age well
Oh noooo 😳Was it fatal?
I was a bodysurfer in the 70s, Avila Beach.. thought I was dead once.. a large mass came in beside me.. I got wrapped in kelp.. made to shore to find I washed up with a dead seal.. wrapped in kelp
Excellent decision for you to not even question the ability of the 2 struggling. Pure angelic act. Bravo. Maybe that's why you were there and they will have another beautiful experience with the ocean because you helped calm them down and get safe.
It was weird, as soon as I saw the kid I knew it was my responsibility to save him. I am positive that was why I drove 2 hours to surf there, cause the waves were not
There's a pipe near the rock that used to pump out warm water - it looks like it closed in 2014, though... the water that was used to cool down the power plant and if you paddled out there it was a lot warmer (also attracted stingrays around there) so you could acclimate to the cold on the paddle out. I just decided to move to warmer water, also an option...
*Morro Rock! I was just there a few weeks ago*
No way....lol. How were the waves? This was my first time surfing there. Pretty cool spot until the winds get to it.
Love this... Thank you! I take surfer pics all over the place, esp here...
Thanks for watching 🙏
What a great video...loved watching! The amazing rescue, beautiful camp spot and incredible surf shots and spots! As always, much appreciation for your "capture" of your life well lived!!!! XO
Thank you very much 🙏❤️🤙
My very 1st time surfing had a run in with a barnacle covered pier,it freaked me out so bad I didn't try surfing again for another year,that was 1971. I'm still fully addicted to surfing at age 64 in 2021.
This my first encounter with a barnacle covered pier, it was super intense.... as yes pretty freaky. it makes me stoked to hear your still surfing..... Yeew 🤙🏻
Surfed our local spots. Great video. Glad you had fun.
Thank you Mike 🤙
Wow! Its all about staying calm
I love the idea of the surfer life. You are living it well buddy! Looks like those waters were pretty tiring tho....I've only been surfing a few times and found it sooo tiring! 😆
Thank you 🤙 yeah I surf almost every day for 3-6 hours a day minimum so I stay in pretty good shape. 😉 when it’s choppy like that it’s a lot more work though.
Dude I clean up litter here at Pismo and think I seen you on the beach! Now the crazy part..I just stumbled upon your video by random luck, any way new subscriber! :)
That’s awesome 👏 next time you see me say hello. Thanks for watching 🤙
I enjoy your videos ; ) Positive vibe, good scenery and fun waves. Nice work and cheers from Michigan.
Thank you very much! I appreciate it 🤙🏻
Yo when you paddle out at the rock just hug the rocks on the left, next to the lifeguard tower. Virtually no waves to duck dive cause of the little cove
Hell yeah dude, thank you 🙏
Been a long time since I sat in that line up thank you for the upload.
You’re welcome, thanks for watching my friend 🤙
You gotta ride the rip current out at morrow closer to the rock side by the parking lot. Saves a lot of energy getting out. Same with being close to the pier to get out at Pismo. I made that mistake for 2 days before the locals told me how to get out at pismo
Good to know, I knew about the pier at pismo but it was super crowded by the rock so I just surfed in front of the river mouth. Next time I’m definitely gonna go by the rock though 🙏
Unless it’s big enough that the current takes you into the rock...some days you are doing everything you can to get away from that thing.
I love ur vids man!!!! Keep it up!
Thank you Allen, I appreciate it 🤙
I came close to not making out of the water some years back at ventura pier . The waves were breaking over the front top of the pier but I was nowhere near the pier when I first made it to the line up at the point above c street . It was really big . I struggled to catch a wave and was not in a good mental position but I kept trying and wore myself out physically as it took a lot of effort to maintain location as the current that was pulling you to the pier was really strong . I should have just paddled in before I became completely exhausted but did not want to give up ( stubborn ) so I got closer and closer to the pier till I reached a point of maybe 25 yards from it and realized a big set was coming in that crashed over the top of the pier . I knew I needed to get through that pier before the whitewash was going to slam my body on the barnacle filed pilings . So I put all I had to paddle through the pier and just barely making it though before the whitewash hit me . I remember looking back at my feet seeing I had made it through . I was able to paddle in from there . My friend I went out with was going to call search and rescue as it was getting dark as I walked up the walkway to see him completely exhausted . The stories we can tell our grandchildren if we survive . This young lad will have a story to tell of not being to smart like me
Incredible story, thank you for sharing this, and dang man I’m glad you got out of there alive Sounds super scary.
That’s crazy dude! My leash snapped one time last winter at the end of ventura point .. wasn’t as big as what you went thru but I got washed almost to the pier.. scary experience and never got my board back lol
@@Ericxnugz yikes . It ended my big wave riding .
As a local I see more surfing on the Cayucos side of Morro Bay than in Pismo, generally, unless it's big waves. During big waves I've seen some crazy ppl jumping off the pier to surf Haha Looks like you enjoyed your time.
That sounds fun, wish the waves were bigger in pismo for sure, but yeah I had a blast 🤙
Thank you for the insight and thank you for watching 🤙🤙🤙
montana de oro state park secret spot.. shhhhh don't tell anyone
I’ll have to check that out next time 🤙
Hi, I've been following you since 2 months and everything in your videos has always been spectacular. The sessions are great, the quality is fantastic... this channel is absolutely brilliant and you helped me a lot with the majority of my curiosities about the world of surfing, thank you so much. Anyway, I would like to make a suggestion (if it's not a problem): I'm convinced that you can add a really funny video on your channel to show some of the funniest things happened while surfing or swimming, it can be something like a "oops and bloopers" compilation. For example, you could make a compilation of all of the moments where you or your friends get "caught" on video while peeing in the water (my uncle relieved himself in a surfing session while he was waiting for a wave and that was hilarious, he always says there are 2 types of surfers and swimmers: those who pee in the water and those who lie), you can also include those moments in the future videos just to keep having a bit of humour on your channel, you can use both old and new clips what do you think? I'd be so so happy to watch it, let me know, bye!
thank you, yeah that would be hilarious 🤣
@@LorenBird Thank you, so let me know soon if you catch someone or even yourself
Another sick vid!
Thank you 🤙
I wish the waves would have been a little bigger and cleaner but it was a super fun weekend and a little intense to.
I,d deffo claim the rescue, the young un was lucky you were there ...and that is one arty isometric wax technique you have there..)
The more I think about it the more it trips me out how lucky I was to be there and able to help in that situation with the crazy rip tides and current, and yes I’m definitely a little ocd about my wax 🤣
Yea ive been on both sides of a few rescues..nothing too serious, mainly board loss and gassed out..luckily theres was plenty boards to grab onto as I swam from board to board towards my board..)...yea ya wax on is a work of art..)
Lifeguards are pretty useless at Pismo, there is usually a rip right below/next to the pier.
"not bad for a free camping" \o/ - if you cross that "river" on the rock, walk a bit you take great waves by that pier with no crowd! do that and make a video please! cheers
I’m definitely gonna do that next time, thanks 🤙
Living in paradise 805
Indeed, I’m very grateful to have grown up here 🤙💕
Me too
Next up spy glass and maybe sand spits
Spy glass for sure, Sandspit isn’t breaking like it should. Too much sand is stuck there right now and has been for way too long. We need a big south Swell
Lost my Rusty at the South Jetty yrs ago. try Cambria
Bummer, how’d that happen?
Yeah cambria is a cool spot for sure.
@@LorenBird it was 10' + and lots of close outs, i Got Dragged and my Leash got ripped off my leg, Hard time getting back in, Looked for a Hr + Looked out on the jetty, Sea was white and frothy! Hard to See anything on the Water, Never Seen My Fav Rusty Board Again.
My Buddy Felt so Bad he let me use his to Paddle Back across the Morro Bay Harbor Mouth, He swam.
Never forgot that Rusty! I just Ordered a Custom Rusty a week ago! Rush Order! $$ Being Built right Now! Almost the same board but diff colors. Stoked!!
Dude that’s gnarly, 10+ is no joke. thanks for sharing this. Stoked to hear that you’re gonna be getting a new one 🤙🤙🤙
🤙🤙🤙
yeew🤙🏻
I live in Slo
Yeew 🤙
🤙🤙🤙🤙
Yeew, thanks buddy 🤙