What a great Sunday evening. First Keith Fenner and the latest in the box give away and now with Keith Rucker doing yeoman service in the name of machinist maintenance. What a great community that has come together around all the talented machinists and enthusiasts. Hope to enjoy many more years of viewing. Cheers.
I began to work with B&S 2L's at a, new to me, shop 3 days ago. The information I need for firmilairizing myself has not been freely given. This is very helpful to me and greatly appreciated. Had to sub, and like even though I rarely remember to, thank you!
Thank you so muck Keith. That was so nice of you to take your time to take that a part and show us how it works. I know I would not want to take a part a good working machine. You are the man Keith Rucker.
Great video, Keith. I can't believe you would tear down and reassemble your dividing head just to show us how it all works and fits together. Really great service for your viewers...I know I learned a lot from this. Thanks! Joe
Hi Keith, I bought an Enco dividing head that is similar to yours. I didn't know about the cam action of the worm gear and mine is pretty gummed up. This video did me a huge favor in explaining how it was supposed to function. I'm grateful, you really helped me out. Thank you!
This is great. it seems every time i buy a piece of vintage machinery, Kieth has already beat me to it and has an excellent video on how to disassemble or restore it
That brass guard realy is a tell tail sign , that its an oldy for sure ☆☆☆☆☆ Luve those elegant details the older pieces and tools has♡ We lost that overtime completly in newer day design , unfortunairy . Luckly you are a restauration Saint ☆☆☆☆☆ Grts from the netherlands Johny geerts
Hey Keith, About two years ago we pulled one just like that out of our store room. It took a couple of hours to figure out what everything does. Very nice dividing head, Browne and Sharpe makes some nice tooling. Thanks for the video!
Yeah that screwdriver project would definitely be one. Thanks Keith for this video. It is the only one I have found, and I'm sure it will be a valuable to others for years to come.
Hi Keith, I liked your video of the Browne and Sharpe Dividing Head. I don't have one. but I saved it and will keep it so if I ever have this Head I will be able to use it. Thanks for all the great videos Wayne
I might have to watch that ta a few more times to attempt that task. there is more than plenty of times I could have used it. anyways I have a better understanding on how it works in side.By watching you helped me a lot. so I am learning and getting closer on looking in to getting one. Thank you for taking the time for a mighty fine lesson.
That would be a challenge; receiving as a box of parts! Great video Keith, thanks for sharing! I have a B&S dividing head on its way to me and this video is a great aid in understanding how it works!
Another good one Keith, I was terrified of the one we had a engineering school, never touch one since? but know it all make sense, Thanks a lot Allan from NZ
I actually have one of these that I need to go through. It looks appallingly complicated, but after watching this a couple of times I think I can attempt it. Thanks for showing this video!!!! Frank
Keith, A couple of things on this video that I thought about- 1.) I believe photos as things are torn apart are worth the effort. Most things are not remembered only for a short while, especially the weekend and evening warriors with not a lot of time open for shop projects! 2.) laying the removed parts out as they are removed helps in the direction and orientation, keeps a fun worthwhile project from becoming a basket case! I found this out at an early age and used it without shame from those with photographic memory. Cheers Gene
Looking at the bare body for your dividing head reminds me of a Hasselblad SLR camera body- precise, well made, seriously over-engineered. It's machine tools like this that makes everything from Bucky Balls to moon landings possible.
***** Absolutely. It all makes me wonder where it all came from, how long ago. I mean, yah, Industrial Revolution and all that. But the basic ideas were in place centuries before that.
Thank you Mr. Rucker, it was very interesting to see the inside of it. The quality of this part speaks for itself. You can see that it is thought in details that companies today can not (or want) to spend money on. A beautiful creation (if a machine part can be called beautiful). Thank you again. ATB Hans O
Thanks for the instruction and good photos of the insides. It helped me immensely when i ran into a problem rebuilding the one I just picked up. No matter how hard I tried (with a pipe wrench no less) I couldn't loosen the knurled locking knob with the gear that turns the eccentric lock nut. The eccentric was full engaged (worm up) and wouldn't budge of course. Seeing your views of the inside, I was glad I didn't strip the gear teeth and knew I couldn't just apply more torque. I ended up making a special sleeve-tool that had a protruding tang on the end to engage the eccentric shaft (where it normally is prevented from rotating too far). With a large wrench on this tool, and a pipe wrench on the knurled locking knob providing torque in the same direction, I was able to force the eccentric around to get the worm away from the spindle worm gear. This allowed me to take the spindle out and thus access the insides. I then got a piece of steel to block the gear teeth on the actual locking nut and, with a pipe wrench again also adding to the blocking torque, applied torque on my tool in the opposite direction (on the direction that would cause the nut to loosen). It took a pretty big effort but it did come loose (before any gear teeth got stripped thank goodness) and so it was a success!
The thrust cap looks like it takes an old large size silver dollar to take it out. Brown & Sharp always made nice machinery and it was made in the USA.
Hi Keith. Just wanted to say thank you for making this video. I happened to watch it again this morning, being that I recently picked up one of these clone models. I found that it had some issues, which I just spent most of the day fixing, and this video helped in getting mine torn down, repaired, and put back together.
Hi Keith, Good demo on the principle of a rotary head. Companies should sell their apparels disassembled, so we end up knowing "How it's Made" Reminds me when I bought a 15" Bridgeport rotary table with a jammed central bearing, was supposed to be stiff grease, turned out to be RUST... When I heard the price of that bearing, around $500, I chocked.... At least I know how it works and it works good now. Take care, Pierre
Hi Keith, First of all around 1950 is not old. It's well within living memory, well mine at least! That was a really interesting project, must have felt like a 3-d jigsaw puzzle when you first opened the box. Just as well you practiced a bit before setting it down on video. Congratulations on a job well done. Hope to see it in use at a later date. Regards.
A lot of machined parts must have made those very expensive. If I ever get one, I don't think I'll be taking it apart W/O looking at this video. I'm very late to this party but thank you.
Very interesting video Keith. Can I say that the new camera is producing top results! It looks really good on the lounge TV. The sound is pretty good too, no distraction from background noise and no audio ducking when you dropped a piece or hit the brass rod. I presume you've got the automatic gain control in the camera turned off. Content was fascinating too, not that I will ever have a B&S dividing head!
Well Done!! This video is going to help a lot of people over the years ... Wish more people would take the time to do what you did with your Brown and Sharpe Dividing Head. Great Video, really enjoyed the detail and close-up views inside :-)
I like videos like this, it reminds me of how I taught myself how many things came apart and went back together...or those times that didn't work out so well, he he. Nice piece of craftsmanship, and it is so amazing the thing some folks can dream up to make their work possible, or just to get things done better, or with repeatability...just awesome engineering, Thanks for sharing this with us. Aloha...Chuck
***** The old "extra bolts left in the bucket" trick is always annoying, thanks Heavens for digital cameras and paint pens to keep track of things. I can remember when the only thing that was ever marked were the timing belt pulley, and the spark plug wires...ahh the simple old times :D
Keith, I enjoyed your video. I think it will be at least some help even though I don’t have a Brown & Sharp, I have a K. MFG Co (Kempsmith). The chuck has a lot of runout, and the nut on the opposite end was loose at first. So maybe debris got in there. It’s a much more basic model than yours, there’s no cam to disengage the worm. So that means I need to remove the worm first, I believe the radius in the big gear will keep it from pulling away from the worm screw. I’ve rebuilt worm drive winches, and they’re that way. They look the same in that regard. Thanks again.
Some brilliant minds back when this was designed and constructed. Even being a clone, this device looks very complicated. The fit and finish is remarkable. I really enjoyed watching you take this thing apart. I did however fast forward a little when you put it back together ;- ) . Hey how is the safe coming along ? You are one busy guy. Thanks again for another great video.....Ken
Truly an educational video. Very well done indeed. I am currently in the process of making my own miniature dividing head, and seeing how the big boys do it convinces me I am on the right track. Off-topic, at the left of your bench as you face it there is an intriguing cut-out. Could it possibly be a patternmaker's vise? If so would it be an Emmert? Drool! Here in Alaska I am more likely to find a Unicorn than an Emmert vise, although the Taiwanese do a knock-off. And Lee Valley sells a similiar one for a cool $500. Too rich for me. Maybe we can get a look at it in one of your odds & ends video? Like you, I do both wood and metal.
Keith, You know you did a proper reassembly when there aren't any leftover parts! A super video! I love this kind of stuff -- seeing what makes things tick! I guess it would also help some if you had a bit of training in gynecology! (LOL) Thanks for a most interesting and informative video! Here's hoping you and your family has a super Thanksgiving and you don't OD on turkey! Have a good one, Keith! Dave
No disrespect to you, Keith, but the very first thing I would have done is to pop a couple of shims underneath the device to stop it yokking all over the place like it was. Enjoying your informative and interesting vids. Keep up the good work!
Excellent video Mr Rucker! I really could have used this when I fixed up my old B&S universal clone (rescued from scrapping for a song and some serious shipping charges) a year ago as I fell in most traps you mention.. It had a few stripped teeth on the cam engagement that I repaired and was missing the plates and handle assembly. Found the three plates and fabricated the rest and have now made about 40 gears with it so far. Could you possibly do a tuitorial on compund indexing and spiral milling? Eventually I will find or make the banjo and the gears for mine and I do have a rather sturdy universal mill to use it on. Keep up the good work!
***** I look forward to that! I just had if not an epiphany, then at least a small pennydrop about spiral milling. The dividingplate and crank rotates as it is hardwired to the lenghtwise feed by the gearchain and the workpieced is indexed for a new cut as usual on the plate that is not locked by the little pin.. So it seemed more complicated than it really is, and all I need to do is calculate the ratios and changegears for the setup. Cheers!
***** Yes that too, but if cutting a steep spiral like a thread, I expect it would need to be driven by the dividing crank rather than the milling table handwheel? Also, how do one get the spiral milling setup rigid enough as the spindle lock must be disengaged? I feel any backlash at all would make for a horrible finish on the work?
Ok, first of all, you've no idea how happy i am you took your time to take this apart. Old equipment, seeing how it works, what makes it tick, i'm giddy as a kid in a candy shop. Second of all, those screwdrivers are so nice, i like the handles a lot. I wonder if i could make something like that. Is the metal part a single piece or the shaft is pressed inside the handle (metal) piece? Third, that lock nut/gear is such a neat-o idea. Having a locking mechanism that you could hide inside the enclosure to deal away with handles and knobs, i've taken note of it and maybe i'll incorporate it in to something one day. One thing i think they could of had done better is to make the spanner nut bigger and deal away with the "spanner portion" of it. Bigger handle more force, certainly sufficient to lock it by hand, IMO. And last..how on earth, would one tackle the job of making that wrap-around track for the turn action...was the piece held against another "divider" and twisted under the mill? I can see the center marks but, what would the cutter look like?
I was wondering about the screwdrivers as well. I have a couple in my collection. So, I did some searching... What I found is they were called "Perfect Handle" screwdrivers by the original manufacturer "H.D. Smith & Co. of Plantsville, Connecticut" (See article here progress-is-fine.blogspot.ca/2012/12/the-perfect-handle-screwdriver.html) They are also made by Irwin and Mac Tools. I believe Snapon may also have carried them at some time.
Thanks Keith for this video clip... was wondering when you were going to talk to us about that B&S style dividing head on your bench :) I added two mid 1950's B&S No 2 universal mills to my shop last month and one came with a nice L&W universal dividing head.
Keith, Wonderful video. I have two questions. Do you happen to know the taper of the center bore? I expect it is probably B&S - but what number? What is the appropriate lubricant? My B&S Dividing Head was packed with grease. Obviously, the oil holes take an oil of some sort. Is that the only lubricant that should be used? I'm one of the very early OWWM guys - back to the newsgroup days. I've stepped up to the greater challenge of restoring metalworking machine. You videos are a great education tool. Thanks for all your work. Jeff Traeger
Hi Keith Thank for this video! But it was a bit shocking for me, how You loosen and titen the 2-hole-nut. It's not really craftsman's like. If You don't have fitting spanner, You can just bend a fitting rod in V-shape, and bend the ends like hooks. That will work fine. You teached me, that the excentrical thing is called "cam". I didn't knew this until jet. Sorry for my poor English. Regards from Germany Larry
Great video , I just picked up a gulledge dh454 , it's pretty crusty looking. You wouldn't know where I could find a breakdown or manual for it do you . I've looked allover. Looks alot like Ellis brand also, came with a 4" 3jaw chuck . I'd like to pull it apart clean thirty years of shelf life off , paint it rebuild it back to good as new and take better care of it. Then I'm going to cut several gears to use and sell . My lift on the 20 drill press needs both. Table and head lifts.
Love your videos and endless knowledge. I have a similar dividing head. The cushman chuck came attached it appears to un screw but is hard. Is there a proper and safe way to remove the chuck.
can you explain the purpose of the vernier scale is it for setting to find the angle between teeth you wish to cut 14 20 8 extra . do we set the vernier scale so that we mack the gear with the correct angle between teeth centers. ? i built my own indexing hed & so i can make the gears with the correct pitch . I developed a method that enables me to cut the correct pitch of the teeth by enabling the gear to be copied to make a indexing plate circle & the gear becoming the indexing plat or become an direct indexing wheel . That why i ask the question , it as never been made clear to me the point of the vernier scale unless it is to develop the damerel pics of the gear teeth , i find it by the metod i have spoken of, but i ask myself what if we have not got a gear to copy how do we find the diametral pitch & relate it to the dividing had. to cut a gear with 60 teeth with , differing pitches a plant doesn't say this plat cuts a bimetal pich of 14 or 20 or 8 Min Or seconds , plats do not put it on the plat so is the vr near scal on the dividing head used to determine the diametral pitch & can you explain it in a video for those of us a bit thick to grasp it . How it works , please . & how it is set before fighting the plats. Les England
you are no watch maker, but got the job done and good information. I assume light grease is supposed to be used not just oil on the parts. Oil goes dry after several years on the shelf which is where these sit mostly. The thread for the chuck seems to be 2" x6tpi as a guess?
I did have one of those screwdrivers you have but it was in my tool box at work that was stolen . It was one my dad had when he was alive now its gone.
I don't have a B&S head but it was interesting to me to see how it was made compared to my Cincinnati. Do you have the gear setup for your K&T so you could cut helical gears with it?
Took some doing, strripping and rebuilding the very first one, first time, I imagine. My eyes are not as good as they were, but did I notice some bronze or brazing material on one casting as you took it off and put it back? Just makes me wonder how something like that could happen in the first place on a piece of equipment that hardly movers?
Just finished restoring mine but I’m finding it hard to turn it keeps jumping out of gear etc.. is this dividing head more for drive train? I can’t find any info on where I can buy parts? Also the numbers on the quick front dividing plate behind chuck was having problems reading how they number the plate. I started a video so will post it soon. Great video!
really enjoyed this video. as it turns out i have an almost identical dividing head. the differences appear to be cosmetic. there are no mfg markings on mine. mine has the direct index plate. if you need pictures or dimensions let me know. i also have an extra set of index plates if you need them.
***** keith let me know which one you have and i will send you the other two plates the bore size of my plates are 1.125 give me a ship to . larry sperling
Hi Keith good video . I just bought a chinese clone of the BS-2 and it was hard to rotate both the main shaft and the engagement shaft also there is only two oilers one above the main shaft and one on the side this is not a very go way to oil this unit . You would have to pump ample amount of oil and nod and flit the unit to get oil to all the shafts and bearings . note the clone came with grease on the front bearing and internal gears also some (grinding dust to help breakin ) LoL i regreased the clone . also had to machine one part to the ingaugment knob not on the us BS-2 . how do you oil the BS-2 usa unit . Thanks JM
Hello I have a strange request I just validated you have a BS 3 I have a BS 0. I understand it's going to be a little bit of trouble for you however could you please blueprint the spiraling transmission I would like to shrink down to the transmission to fit my Brown and sharps 0 and then of course actually create one. by the way it looks like you're missing the 10 gears used for attaching the transmission to your Z axis thread.
HI Keith, this was *very* educational!, thank you for posting it. i have a dividing head that is probably a walther, no nomenclature plate or stampings on it anywhere. it's an older model probably from the 60's. it was seized up when i got it and with a little oil and elbow grease i managed to get it moving again. it's definitely out of either german or austrian manufacture and is as tight as the day it was built. i've seen one of these in ebay that you could adjust the tilt via a screw.. i regret letting that one get away... might you have an idea where a guy can get a set of the gears needed to connect the dividing head to the feed crank on the end of the mill?.. i've been looking in ebay and i know i have the name of the thing all wrong which is probably why i can't find any. any suggestions? also, there should be a row of holes on the indexing plate that have numbers next to them. if i'm informed correctly they should be engaged on the stop pin
I do believe you're supposed to tune that worm gear with a silver dollar. Take a broken wrench drill it pop a couple of pins in there build yourself a spanning wrench it also happens to be a tuning wrench think about it
Keith I need to replace some of the little oil plugs on my brown & sharp mill they look just like the ones on your dividing head any idea where one can source them ? or how to go about making such a small part ? (ps my mouth is watering at the chance to get this divider .)
Chris Anderson I have no idea where you might find those oil plugs, but they should not be too hard to make. Yes, they are small, but a very doable project on a lathe.
hello keith, i have always looked at the asian ones with interest, now i see the model codes (BS0, BS1, and BS2) must mean brown and sharp replica,i have often considered buying one but at £400 + here in the uk even the asian models are too expensive. best regards Andrew Norman
Heh. Just when I had got my head around "direct indexing" and "plain indexing", I ran headlong into "differential indexing". Now my head is spinning (no pun intended) en.wikisource.org/wiki/Practical_Treatise_on_Milling_and_Milling_Machines/Chapter_4
Hi Keith. Well, I found myself in possession of one of these Browne and Sharp Dividing Heads and I’m in the process of Brazil and repairing the eccentric gear. Mine does seem to missing the transposing gears as well as the holders for those. Might you know someone who has a set, or at least the dimensions or specs? I’d love to be able to mill helical gears using my Bridgeport Series 1
hi keith, i recently got a pratt and whitney 1803 head , its in exellent shape and need to restore it but i cant seem to find any info on this head thats any help, must be a rare one,its certaintly of exellent build quality so would really appreciate any help in getting a breakdown of that particular head, thanks
Keith, let me assure you that those of us who chose other disciplines to pursue in life find your tutorials extremely valuable and rewarding.
I don't own any machine tools. But I love seeing how things work. I'm glad for a look inside your Dividing Head. Thanks!
What a great Sunday evening. First Keith Fenner and the latest in the box give away and now with Keith Rucker doing yeoman service in the name of machinist maintenance. What a great community that has come together around all the talented machinists and enthusiasts. Hope to enjoy many more years of viewing. Cheers.
I began to work with B&S 2L's at a, new to me, shop 3 days ago. The information I need for firmilairizing myself has not been freely given. This is very helpful to me and greatly appreciated. Had to sub, and like even though I rarely remember to, thank you!
Thank you so muck Keith. That was so nice of you to take your time to take that a part and show us how it works. I know I would not want to take a part a good working machine. You are the man Keith Rucker.
Great video, Keith. I can't believe you would tear down and reassemble your dividing head just to show us how it all works and fits together. Really great service for your viewers...I know I learned a lot from this.
Thanks!
Joe
Hi Keith, I bought an Enco dividing head that is similar to yours. I didn't know about the cam action of the worm gear and mine is pretty gummed up. This video did me a huge favor in explaining how it was supposed to function. I'm grateful, you really helped me out. Thank you!
This is great. it seems every time i buy a piece of vintage machinery, Kieth has already beat me to it and has an excellent video on how to disassemble or restore it
That brass guard realy is a tell tail sign , that its an oldy for sure ☆☆☆☆☆
Luve those elegant details the older pieces and tools has♡
We lost that overtime completly in newer day design , unfortunairy .
Luckly you are a restauration Saint ☆☆☆☆☆
Grts from the netherlands Johny geerts
Hey Keith,
About two years ago we pulled one just like that out of our store room. It took a couple of hours to figure out what everything does. Very nice dividing head, Browne and Sharpe makes some nice tooling. Thanks for the video!
Yeah that screwdriver project would definitely be one. Thanks Keith for this video. It is the only one I have found, and I'm sure it will be a valuable to others for years to come.
This is my favorite type of video, highlight old quality US made machines and parts, take them apart and see how they work, great video
Hi Keith, I liked your video of the Browne and Sharpe Dividing Head. I don't have one.
but I saved it and will keep it so if I ever have this Head I will be able to use it.
Thanks for all the great videos
Wayne
I might have to watch that ta a few more times to attempt that task. there is more than plenty of times I could have used it. anyways I have a better understanding on how it works in side.By watching you helped me a lot. so I am learning and getting closer on looking in to getting one. Thank you for taking the time for a mighty fine lesson.
Such amazing engineering in that dividing head, no wonder I can't afford one. Thanks for this and all your other videos.
That would be a challenge; receiving as a box of parts!
Great video Keith, thanks for sharing! I have a B&S dividing head on its way to me and this video is a great aid in understanding how it works!
Glad it was a help for you!
Another good one Keith, I was terrified of the one we had a engineering school, never touch one since? but know it all make sense,
Thanks a lot
Allan from NZ
I actually have one of these that I need to go through. It looks appallingly complicated, but after watching this a couple of times I think I can attempt it.
Thanks for showing this video!!!!
Frank
Interesting video, thanks Keith. Not surprised the guy you got it from couldn't figure it out!
***** It took me quite a while of trial and error to figure out where everything went.....
Keith,
A couple of things on this video that I thought about-
1.) I believe photos as things are torn apart are worth the effort. Most things are not remembered only for a short while, especially the weekend and evening warriors with not a lot of time open for shop projects!
2.) laying the removed parts out as they are removed helps in the direction and orientation, keeps a fun worthwhile project from becoming a basket case!
I found this out at an early age and used it without shame from those with photographic memory.
Cheers Gene
You know Keith that is not fair taking something apart that is nice and clean
Learned a lot
Thanks
Bill
Looking at the bare body for your dividing head reminds me of a Hasselblad SLR camera body- precise, well made, seriously over-engineered. It's machine tools like this that makes everything from Bucky Balls to moon landings possible.
***** Absolutely. It all makes me wonder where it all came from, how long ago. I mean, yah, Industrial Revolution and all that. But the basic ideas were in place centuries before that.
Thank you Mr. Rucker, it was very interesting to see the inside of it.
The quality of this part speaks for itself.
You can see that it is thought in details that companies today can not (or want) to spend money on. A beautiful creation (if a machine part can be called beautiful).
Thank you again.
ATB Hans O
Thanks for the instruction and good photos of the insides. It helped me immensely when i ran into a problem rebuilding the one I just picked up. No matter how hard I tried (with a pipe wrench no less) I couldn't loosen the knurled locking knob with the gear that turns the eccentric lock nut. The eccentric was full engaged (worm up) and wouldn't budge of course. Seeing your views of the inside, I was glad I didn't strip the gear teeth and knew I couldn't just apply more torque. I ended up making a special sleeve-tool that had a protruding tang on the end to engage the eccentric shaft (where it normally is prevented from rotating too far). With a large wrench on this tool, and a pipe wrench on the knurled locking knob providing torque in the same direction, I was able to force the eccentric around to get the worm away from the spindle worm gear. This allowed me to take the spindle out and thus access the insides. I then got a piece of steel to block the gear teeth on the actual locking nut and, with a pipe wrench again also adding to the blocking torque, applied torque on my tool in the opposite direction (on the direction that would cause the nut to loosen). It took a pretty big effort but it did come loose (before any gear teeth got stripped thank goodness) and so it was a success!
The thrust cap looks like it takes an old large size silver dollar to take it out. Brown & Sharp always made nice machinery and it was made in the USA.
Wow, after seeing this, my little Brown & Sharp without the tilting head sure seems like a simple device.
*****
Same to you Keith!
Great stuff Keith, excellent tutorial enjoyed this very much
Most excellent. I was amazed by all the parts and the genius it took to invent a machine like that. Very cool.
Hi Keith. Just wanted to say thank you for making this video. I happened to watch it again this morning, being that I recently picked up one of these clone models. I found that it had some issues, which I just spent most of the day fixing, and this video helped in getting mine torn down, repaired, and put back together.
My pleasure! I am glad that the video came in handy for you!
Thoroughly enjoyed this. Thanks
reminds me of my granpas old Waltham pocket watch.The insides look new.Beautiful machine,thank's
+Gayle Feinberg I just love precision machines like that!
Hi Keith,
Good demo on the principle of a rotary head.
Companies should sell their apparels disassembled, so we end up knowing "How it's Made"
Reminds me when I bought a 15" Bridgeport rotary table with a jammed central bearing, was supposed to be stiff grease, turned out to be RUST...
When I heard the price of that bearing, around $500, I chocked....
At least I know how it works and it works good now.
Take care,
Pierre
That would give people like us a permanent job...
Hi Keith, First of all around 1950 is not old. It's well within living memory, well mine at least!
That was a really interesting project, must have felt like a 3-d jigsaw puzzle when you first opened the box. Just as well you practiced a bit before setting it down on video. Congratulations on a job well done. Hope to see it in use at a later date. Regards.
A lot of machined parts must have made those very expensive. If I ever get one, I don't think I'll be taking it apart W/O looking at this video. I'm very late to this party but thank you.
Keith,
As usual very detailed and very informative.
Very interesting video Keith. Can I say that the new camera is producing top results! It looks really good on the lounge TV. The sound is pretty good too, no distraction from background noise and no audio ducking when you dropped a piece or hit the brass rod. I presume you've got the automatic gain control in the camera turned off. Content was fascinating too, not that I will ever have a B&S dividing head!
Thanks Keith! Thoroughly enjoyed!
Hi Keith, thank-you for this video!
Mike.
Keith you must have spend hours playing with that dividing head,, well done,, if I ever need mine fixed your my boy, regards Frank
Well Done!! This video is going to help a lot of people over the years ... Wish more people would take the time to do what you did with your Brown and Sharpe Dividing Head. Great Video, really enjoyed the detail and close-up views inside :-)
Awesome, now we just need to see it in action.
I like videos like this, it reminds me of how I taught myself how many things came apart and went back together...or those times that didn't work out so well, he he.
Nice piece of craftsmanship, and it is so amazing the thing some folks can dream up to make their work possible, or just to get things done better, or with repeatability...just awesome engineering, Thanks for sharing this with us.
Aloha...Chuck
*****
The old "extra bolts left in the bucket" trick is always annoying, thanks Heavens for digital cameras and paint pens to keep track of things. I can remember when the only thing that was ever marked were the timing belt pulley, and the spark plug wires...ahh the simple old times :D
Well done... now I have a better idea of how it works... thanks!
Keith, I enjoyed your video. I think it will be at least some help even though I don’t have a Brown & Sharp, I have a K. MFG Co (Kempsmith). The chuck has a lot of runout, and the nut on the opposite end was loose at first. So maybe debris got in there. It’s a much more basic model than yours, there’s no cam to disengage the worm. So that means I need to remove the worm first, I believe the radius in the big gear will keep it from pulling away from the worm screw. I’ve rebuilt worm drive winches, and they’re that way. They look the same in that regard. Thanks again.
Thank you. I'm just getting started.
The Basmentshopguy just rebuilt a real Brown & Sharp on his channel .You would like what he did to it looks new.
Awesome stuff , Now I know something I never knew before ! I enjoyed it ..
Oh , I sure did .. I love the learning !!
Some brilliant minds back when this was designed and constructed. Even being a clone, this device looks very complicated. The fit and finish is remarkable. I really enjoyed watching you take this thing apart. I did however fast forward a little when you put it back together ;- ) . Hey how is the safe coming along ? You are one busy guy. Thanks again for another great video.....Ken
Truly an educational video. Very well done indeed. I am currently in the process of making my own miniature dividing head, and seeing how the big boys do it convinces me I am on the right track. Off-topic, at the left of your bench as you face it there is an intriguing cut-out. Could it possibly be a patternmaker's vise? If so would it be an Emmert? Drool! Here in Alaska I am more likely to find a Unicorn than an Emmert vise, although the Taiwanese do a knock-off. And Lee Valley sells a similiar one for a cool $500. Too rich for me. Maybe we can get a look at it in one of your odds & ends video?
Like you, I do both wood and metal.
Very nice!
Keith,
You know you did a proper reassembly when there aren't any leftover parts! A super video! I love this kind of stuff -- seeing what makes things tick! I guess it would also help some if you had a bit of training in gynecology! (LOL) Thanks for a most interesting and informative video! Here's hoping you and your family has a super Thanksgiving and you don't OD on turkey!
Have a good one, Keith!
Dave
Thanks for this great video. This will indeed help someone or someones.
No disrespect to you, Keith, but the very first thing I would have done is to pop a couple of shims underneath the device to stop it yokking all over the place like it was. Enjoying your informative and interesting vids. Keep up the good work!
WOW Nice unit. Thanks Keith
A true “basket case”! Or should I say “box case”.
Excellent video Mr Rucker! I really could have used this when I fixed up my old B&S universal clone (rescued from scrapping for a song and some serious shipping charges) a year ago as I fell in most traps you mention.. It had a few stripped teeth on the cam engagement that I repaired and was missing the plates and handle assembly. Found the three plates and fabricated the rest and have now made about 40 gears with it so far.
Could you possibly do a tuitorial on compund indexing and spiral milling? Eventually I will find or make the banjo and the gears for mine and I do have a rather sturdy universal mill to use it on.
Keep up the good work!
***** I look forward to that!
I just had if not an epiphany, then at least a small pennydrop about spiral milling. The dividingplate and crank rotates as it is hardwired to the lenghtwise feed by the gearchain and the workpieced is indexed for a new cut as usual on the plate that is not locked by the little pin..
So it seemed more complicated than it really is, and all I need to do is calculate the ratios and changegears for the setup.
Cheers!
***** Yes that too, but if cutting a steep spiral like a thread, I expect it would need to be driven by the dividing crank rather than the milling table handwheel? Also, how do one get the spiral milling setup rigid enough as the spindle lock must be disengaged? I feel any backlash at all would make for a horrible finish on the work?
Very interesting, thanks for sharing.
Cool video Keith. I've never seen one taken apart before and, who knows, might have to resto one someday.
Colin ;-)
Ok, first of all, you've no idea how happy i am you took your time to take this apart. Old equipment, seeing how it works, what makes it tick, i'm giddy as a kid in a candy shop.
Second of all, those screwdrivers are so nice, i like the handles a lot. I wonder if i could make something like that. Is the metal part a single piece or the shaft is pressed inside the handle (metal) piece?
Third, that lock nut/gear is such a neat-o idea. Having a locking mechanism that you could hide inside the enclosure to deal away with handles and knobs, i've taken note of it and maybe i'll incorporate it in to something one day.
One thing i think they could of had done better is to make the spanner nut bigger and deal away with the "spanner portion" of it. Bigger handle more force, certainly sufficient to lock it by hand, IMO.
And last..how on earth, would one tackle the job of making that wrap-around track for the turn action...was the piece held against another "divider" and twisted under the mill? I can see the center marks but, what would the cutter look like?
I was wondering about the screwdrivers as well. I have a couple in my collection. So, I did some searching...
What I found is they were called "Perfect Handle" screwdrivers by the original manufacturer "H.D. Smith & Co. of Plantsville, Connecticut" (See article here progress-is-fine.blogspot.ca/2012/12/the-perfect-handle-screwdriver.html)
They are also made by Irwin and Mac Tools. I believe Snapon may also have carried them at some time.
Found a source for them! www.garrettwade.com/x-hd-screwdriver-set-4/p/05R01.03/
Chris Knowles Nice, thanks for the tip. They look really nice and i bet they have an awesome feel to them as well.
Chris Knowles
Imported...
*****
:( Sadly I was not able to find any domestically made versions in my search.
I love puzzles like that there some times head scratchers but to me they,if you can call it that fun but I love doing thing like that
I kind of like the challenge too!
Interesting. Are they still finding old alarm clock parts scattered around your bedroom in the house where you grew up?
Great video. Thanks for posting. One has to wonder what kind of mind(s) come up with this stuff. No AutoCAD either!
Thanks Keith for this video clip... was wondering when you were going to talk to us about that B&S style dividing head on your bench :) I added two mid 1950's B&S No 2 universal mills to my shop last month and one came with a nice L&W universal dividing head.
Keith,
Wonderful video. I have two questions. Do you happen to know the taper of the center bore? I expect it is probably B&S - but what number? What is the appropriate lubricant? My B&S Dividing Head was packed with grease. Obviously, the oil holes take an oil of some sort. Is that the only lubricant that should be used?
I'm one of the very early OWWM guys - back to the newsgroup days. I've stepped up to the greater challenge of restoring metalworking machine. You videos are a great education tool. Thanks for all your work.
Jeff Traeger
Hi Keith
Thank for this video!
But it was a bit shocking for me, how You loosen and titen the 2-hole-nut. It's not really craftsman's like. If You don't have fitting spanner, You can just bend a fitting rod in V-shape, and bend the ends like hooks. That will work fine.
You teached me, that the excentrical thing is called "cam". I didn't knew this until jet.
Sorry for my poor English.
Regards from Germany
Larry
Great video , I just picked up a gulledge dh454 , it's pretty crusty looking. You wouldn't know where I could find a breakdown or manual for it do you . I've looked allover. Looks alot like Ellis brand also, came with a 4" 3jaw chuck . I'd like to pull it apart clean thirty years of shelf life off , paint it rebuild it back to good as new and take better care of it. Then I'm going to cut several gears to use and sell . My lift on the 20 drill press needs both. Table and head lifts.
good show
Golly Gee Whiz. Nothing left over. Seriously, Keith, Fine video, very informative. Thanks.
Dick
Love your videos and endless knowledge.
I have a similar dividing head. The cushman chuck came attached it appears to un screw but is hard. Is there a proper and safe way to remove the chuck.
great video keith
***** thank you
make a pin spanner to remove the nut on the back its a simple quick lathe job and does not damage the nut has made them got quite a few jobs
can you explain the purpose of the vernier scale is it for setting to find the angle between teeth you wish to cut 14 20 8 extra . do we set the vernier scale so that we mack the gear with the correct angle between teeth centers. ? i built my own indexing hed & so i can make the gears with the correct pitch . I developed a method that enables me to cut the correct pitch of the teeth by enabling the gear to be copied to make a indexing plate circle & the gear becoming the indexing plat or become an direct indexing wheel . That why i ask the question , it as never been made clear to me the point of the vernier scale unless it is to develop the damerel pics of the gear teeth , i find it by the metod i have spoken of, but i ask myself what if we have not got a gear to copy how do we find the diametral pitch & relate it to the dividing had. to cut a gear with 60 teeth with , differing pitches a plant doesn't say this plat cuts a bimetal pich of 14 or 20 or 8 Min Or seconds , plats do not put it on the plat so is the vr near scal on the dividing head used to determine the diametral pitch & can you explain it in a video for those of us a bit thick to grasp it . How it works , please . & how it is set before fighting the plats.
Les England
That has just about as many moving parts as the manual transmission on a pickup truck. It's a little easier to get up onto the bench, though.
Cool tool. Amazing how many adjustments it has. So when are you going to make the missing screw and missing pin? Leaving them out seems very un-Keith
you are no watch maker, but got the job done and good information. I assume light grease is supposed to be used not just oil
on the parts. Oil goes dry after several years on the shelf which is where these sit mostly. The thread for the chuck seems to be 2" x6tpi as a guess?
I did have one of those screwdrivers you have but it was in my tool box at work that was stolen . It was one my dad had when he was alive now its gone.
I don't have a B&S head but it was interesting to me to see how it was made compared to my Cincinnati. Do you have the gear setup for your K&T so you could cut helical gears with it?
Took some doing, strripping and rebuilding the very first one, first time, I imagine.
My eyes are not as good as they were, but did I notice some bronze or brazing material on one casting as you took it off and put it back?
Just makes me wonder how something like that could happen in the first place on a piece of equipment that hardly movers?
Just finished restoring mine but I’m finding it hard to turn it keeps jumping out of gear etc.. is this dividing head more for drive train? I can’t find any info on where I can buy parts? Also the numbers on the quick front dividing plate behind chuck was having problems reading how they number the plate. I started a video so will post it soon. Great video!
really enjoyed this video. as it turns out i have an almost identical dividing head. the differences appear to be cosmetic. there are no mfg markings on mine. mine has the direct index plate. if you need pictures or dimensions let me know. i also have an extra set of index plates if you need them.
***** keith let me know which one you have and i will send you the other two plates the bore size of my plates are 1.125 give me a ship to . larry sperling
Hi Keith good video . I just bought a chinese clone of the BS-2 and it was hard to rotate both the main shaft and the engagement shaft also there is only two oilers one above the main shaft and one on the side this is not a very go way to oil this unit . You would have to pump ample amount of oil and nod and flit the unit to get oil to all the shafts and bearings . note the clone came with grease on the front bearing and internal gears also some (grinding dust to help breakin ) LoL i regreased the clone . also had to machine one part to the ingaugment knob not on the us BS-2 . how do you oil the BS-2 usa unit . Thanks JM
Hello I have a strange request I just validated you have a BS 3 I have a BS 0. I understand it's going to be a little bit of trouble for you however could you please blueprint the spiraling transmission I would like to shrink down to the transmission to fit my Brown and sharps 0 and then of course actually create one. by the way it looks like you're missing the 10 gears used for attaching the transmission to your Z axis thread.
HI Keith, this was *very* educational!, thank you for posting it. i have a dividing head that is probably a walther, no nomenclature plate or stampings on it anywhere. it's an older model probably from the 60's. it was seized up when i got it and with a little oil and elbow grease i managed to get it moving again. it's definitely out of either german or austrian manufacture and is as tight as the day it was built. i've seen one of these in ebay that you could adjust the tilt via a screw.. i regret letting that one get away...
might you have an idea where a guy can get a set of the gears needed to connect the dividing head to the feed crank on the end of the mill?.. i've been looking in ebay and i know i have the name of the thing all wrong which is probably why i can't find any.
any suggestions?
also, there should be a row of holes on the indexing plate that have numbers next to them. if i'm informed correctly they should be engaged on the stop pin
Beautiful screwdriver. I have just the same ones in my original equipment 1927 Bentley 3 litre toolkit. They look a bit more battered than yours!
My biggest complaint about my B&Sbdividing head is that I can’t safely lift it by myself.
I do believe you're supposed to tune that worm gear with a silver dollar. Take a broken wrench drill it pop a couple of pins in there build yourself a spanning wrench it also happens to be a tuning wrench think about it
Cool!
Thanks
Keith I need to replace some of the little oil plugs on my brown & sharp mill they look just like the ones on your dividing head any idea where one can source them ? or how to go about making such a small part ? (ps my mouth is watering at the chance to get this divider .)
Chris Anderson I have no idea where you might find those oil plugs, but they should not be too hard to make. Yes, they are small, but a very doable project on a lathe.
great video, I like the screwdrivers what type are they.
hello keith, i have always looked at the asian ones with interest, now i see the model codes (BS0, BS1, and BS2) must mean brown and sharp replica,i have often considered buying one but at £400 + here in the uk even the asian models are too expensive.
best regards Andrew Norman
Heh. Just when I had got my head around "direct indexing" and "plain indexing", I ran headlong into "differential indexing".
Now my head is spinning (no pun intended)
en.wikisource.org/wiki/Practical_Treatise_on_Milling_and_Milling_Machines/Chapter_4
I believe mine has the plate
do you see the big braze with this seems like a bronze gas weld etc.Take care> Alistair
Hi Keith. Well, I found myself in possession of one of these Browne and Sharp Dividing Heads and I’m in the process of Brazil and repairing the eccentric gear. Mine does seem to missing the transposing gears as well as the holders for those. Might you know someone who has a set, or at least the dimensions or specs? I’d love to be able to mill helical gears using my Bridgeport Series 1
hi keith, i recently got a pratt and whitney 1803 head , its in exellent shape and need to restore it but i cant seem to find any info on this head thats any help, must be a rare one,its certaintly of exellent build quality so would really appreciate any help in getting a breakdown of that particular head, thanks
can you make a video with the spiral atachment as you call it I've never seen that done before
are those three silver things sticking out of the top of the drive gearc ase some kind of oiler?
***** My Ellis head is supposed to be partially filled with oil. Not so on the B & S ones?
Do you know what taper it has?
Good lord that thing is built lol