Thanks, bro for teaching me something valuable! I really appreciate it. My soil test came back low Lime 4.20 ph & (total) (N 7.13) (P zero) K a little above target. I added 23 bags of pellet lime in 2022. I gotta retest again we live in NJ.
Very interesting experiment. I’m just getting on top of the maths and how it equips me to understand what exactly is in the different products on the market, and make informed decisions as to what to buy and how to apply per 1000 sq feet. Thank you.
Thanks, good video and important topic. I personally prefer to use specific density in the calculations to calculate the amount of N in the liquid but not all suppliers state this on their bottles.
I'm using Brandt Converge 18-3-6 SRN. I get it at my local Siteone store. Effective and less expensive than products like Green County liquids. And it will not stain your tank!
@@ReelTurf What is the frequency of your applications and how much N per 1000 are you applying with each app? How much N are your applying in total over the season?
I just stumbled upon your video today and that was an excellent effort. It the first time I've seen anyone break down the math for liquid applications. Well done. I am now going to check out your other videos. It also brought up a question I had been thinking about with regard to dry vs liquid lawn applications. As I understand it, the liquids are designed for foliar application with the goal of getting the material directly to the plant for use. Which makes sense. But what if my soil is deficient in something? Let's say my soil test shows I am very low in K. It seems like no foliar application will ever address this shortage in the soil. And that in order to bump my K up to the desired level, I MUST use dry product, wetted in. Do you agree with this? The one exception I imagined might by if we made a liquid application but then watered it in right away instead of leaving it on the blades (or leaves).. What do you think?
I have often had the same thought and question. I spent some time researching this a few years ago and never found a concrete answer but here are a few things I have determined from research and personal experience. Liquid does in fact work both ways. Yes, it’s primary method of uptake is foliar but it does wash off to the soil for further uptake as well. I found this to be true when I came across liquid labels that stated to apply the fertilizer to the ground during seeding. This proving it does enhance the soil profile. The second thing I have concluded and has been the most noticeable is the difference in granular vs liquid. It’s often not a fair comparison unless you understand the application rates. I have found most granular bag rates come out to about .75 lbs N / 1k sqft whereas a liquid application is typically a lower 1/8 - 1/4 up to 1/2 rate applied more frequently. You specifically asked about boosting K and the ratios work out to be about the same. My conclusion is you can boost levels with liquid over time. If you want to boost it faster in the soil profile a granular application will do the job as it will be a higher rate. All in all, liquid still delivers the best result in turf appearance and bang for your buck. However granular in some cases when specifically asking about boosting individual soil levels, can give faster results.
Nice video man...came across it today and subscribed...just bought my first jug of liquid fert from Lesco 18-3-6...thinking about going 1/4 lb of liquid each month and see what happens...and about a pound of granular. I get about the same weather as you in Bakersfield CA....lookn forward to your content this season!
Im glad you enjoyed it! Welcome! You’ll have great results with that approach. Consider doing a split app with that granular (.5lb/k twice per month) and you’ll avoid causing a huge surge of growth resulting in scalp marks. 👍🏻
When deciding to choose either a rate of .25 lbsN/1000 or .125 lbs N say every 2 weeks how important is total nitrogen for the season? What range of total season amount of N should we shoot for? Very good vid btw. I just subscribed.
Hello Rich and welcome to the channel! The answer to your question is, it depends on several factors. Yes there is plenty of research and information available about what the total nitrogen inputs should be for turf varieties during a given growth season. This is the standard rule of thumb to generally have healthy turf. Now, taking it a step further on the “it depends”. It depends on your situation. How frequently do you mow, what turf type, what area of the country, are you using plant growth regulator, and what height of cut are you mowing at? I’ve kept my approach simple. In these videos you are seeing a heights of cut range from 3/8” down to .1406” on the putting green. I use plant growth regulator to slow down the vertical height, not the actual growth of the plant. Because I’m mowing low and frequently, I apply lower rates (1/8) every two weeks to provide a continual spoon feeding throughout the growing season. When it needs an extra kick I’ll use 1/4 rate. My reasoning for the lower input is to eliminate waste of product by frequently mowing it off. It also reduces the surge in growth you will see in Bermuda which will often result in ugly scalp spots. On the other hand let’s say you’re not mowing that low, let’s be honest, not every lawn is that flat and not everyone has a greens mower. If you’re using a rotary and mowing above 1”, you can simply hit it with 1/4 rate every 3-5 weeks and enjoy a green lawn. To keep it simple- the lower the height of cut, the more applications at lower rates are necessary. The higher heights of cut can take heavier rates in fewer applications. If you stick with this approach, you’ll find your lawn will continually remain green and you will meet your yearly minimum for nitrogen inputs for the season. Hope this helps. Reach out if you have further questions. I’m always happy to help!
@@ReelTurf A thesis for a response! Refreshing that you took the time to type all that out. Subbed! I do have a question of my own and hope you'll find time to respond to it as well!
Thanks for the great video. Just found your channel and enjoy it very much. My question is do you strictly use liquid fert. as opposed to granular. I am interested in this aspect of spoon feeding which I am now doing with Granular. Thanks again for the great vid's and keep them coming.
Hey there! Glad you’re enjoying the channel. I do strictly use liquid fertilizer with the exception of new seeding. It may be personal preference more than anything. I like liquid because I get more applications for my money. For instance, I can spray at 1/8 rate every two weeks throughout the growing season where you can’t do that with granular. With granular you simply won’t get enough prills on the ground to matter. That’s why you’ll find most “bag” rates are actually 3/4 lb applications of N. I prefer the precision, instant green up, and the control it gives me over the growth. When I used granular I always found myself struggling with surges of growth and when it got mowed it looked terrible all of the time. The reel would scalp and often the grass had a yellow look to it. You’ll find yourself constantly raising the mowing height through the summer to combat the bad look and before you know it, you’ve got an overgrown yard that doesn’t look good. Yes, there is certainly some up front costs of spray equipment but it has paid for itself time and time again. I also enjoy being able to spray plant growth regulator, pesticides, and fungicides all in the same mix. Liquid gives me full control of the yard and the results are amazing!
@@ReelTurf Thanks so much I think I”Il give it a try. I am spoon feeding every two weeks anyway once with granular and once with liquid. Just have to figure out the receipe. I”ll be following and thanks again
Question: I'm using a 12-4-8 liquid fertilizer. When I do the math based on the recommended application of 8oz per 1,000 sf, I come up with 0.075 lb of N per 1,000. Is that too low of an application? Do I need to make sure I'm putting down 1/8 lb (.128 lbs) of N per 1,000 for spoon feeding as you recommend in this video?
hey there, really good video. The most important is to know the maximum amount of nitrogen or the other stuff with out burning. I make many experiments on this , and in get many results. Does anyone has done something similar to this?
Glad you enjoyed it! You’ll find on most labels .5 lb/k of liquid Nitrogen is about the max. Remember liquid works differently than granular. There is really no need for an application of liquid greater than .5/lb. beyond that, you’re just wasting product unnecessarily. You would be surprised that I’ve sprayed my lawn at 1/8 rate every two weeks and have had outstanding results this year. The labels vary but the greatest factor is the mowing height to determine how much liquid and how often it is needed.
Thanks for the reply. Yes soil test had been done by co op . Yesterday I applied ..3468 to the lawn, 3hrs later we had an unforeseen heavy.rain . I'm trying to build a thicker heavier growth in areas that didnt (stay green) during winter, though some areas stayed very green and lush all winter . I think that was due to heavier N applications there in fall . Banded edging excess fertilizer overlap next to driveway ? I recently have purchased Scotts Turf Builder granular 32-0-4. whats your take on applying this in about 1 week for continued feeding for the next 6 to 8 weeks . . approx 6000 sq ft lawn . Quite a bit of chickweed but I'm concentrating on grass first then the weeds .especially in last falls overseeded areas . Transition area turftype tall fescue Houndog blend .
The granular will be fine. The application rate will likely be about 3/4 lb of N per K so no need to overdo it. Unless you had fertilizer sitting on the turf that didn’t water in, it’s unlikely to be nitrogen burn from overlap. In your struggling areas I would investigate the irrigation. This is often the last thing people think of. Determine if the areas received proper water or in your case maybe too much? High traffic area? Wind blown area through winter? Standing snow or ice for a period of time. Things like that could be the issue. Get a lead rake in there to loosen things up to allow water and air to get in there if needed. Good approach with healthy turf first and weeds later. Weeds are easy to get rid of. Unless it’s overtaking the yard, I recommend spot spraying over a blanket application.
with liquid folier applications and my soil is very high in P and K . would you recommend a nitrogen only formulation as the leaves do the uptake Will the soils inherent high P and K still provide the balance necessary? Much of the lawn was reseeded last fall TTTF PH is 6.7 seems like it would need some folier P and K for the leaf structure ? My liquid fertilizer is 20-0-0 And with 1/8 lb per app seems not very productive in growth
Hello your question is something I’ve pondered many times as well. The logic makes sense but I will tell you that after much research I learned that foliar applications are not only absorbed through the leaf. It makes its way into the soil as well. I’m going to assume you know your levels based on a soil test. With this in mind your soil has adequate or high levels of PK. You are right on track with a 20-0-0 approach. 1/8th rate during spring isn’t going to perform well for a couple of reasons. The turf has recently broke free of winter temps. Now that we are in May, you’ll see turf begin to take off. Generally during spring the turf needs a little kick. I typically will do 1/4 rate every two weeks for about 2-3 applications before pulling back to 1/8 rate. Secondly the results you’re seeing now can also be a result of nutrition if any that was provided fall/winter. All that to say, don’t be discouraged. You’re on the right track and just need to give it a few punches of Nitrogen to get it to green up.
Great video..I’m with you all the way with the maths until you get to the line where you say ..1oz of product contains 0.0148 N. I get that. And 8 ozs contains 8x0.0148=0.119 ozs of N. But how do you calculate that 0.119 ozs is 1/8 of a lb..? Am I missing something?
Many thanks for your quick response. I know where I made my mistake and why it did not add up. I said there was 0.0148 ozs N in one oz of product, when I should have said 0.0148 LBS… No wonder I was wrecking my head trying to work it out. Any thoughts on how I might make a high % N liquid fertiliser myself here in Ireland?
Thank you for sharing this. I also saw your video on your sprayer and am planning to build one. I was wondering if you mix this with PGRs? This seems like it would be more efficient to spray this monthly along with a liquid fertilizer. I also read that you need a minimum of 2 gal/1000 water (carrier) for liquid ferts, which would require larger nozzles. What is your application rate per 1000?
Good luck with your build! It’s a sweet setup! Yes you can mix other items in your tank mix. I’ll mix plant growth regulator along with fungicides and bug stuff in my mix every so often. It’s totally ok to do that but always verify your labels first. Some need to mixed in a particular order. Never mix it with a herbicide and blanket spray your property. If you haven’t seen it already, watch this video on calibrating your tank sprayers - m.ruclips.net/video/uFRTHM9wt80/видео.html I aim to get 2 gallons / thousand square foot down with whatever I spray. You don’t necessarily need bigger nozzles, you just might adjust your pressure or your walk speed to hit that target. I spray my property twice (not double spraying chemical) to get that coverage. Not everything out there requires 2 gallons/k but for those starting out with liquid, it’s a safe goal to aim for.
I’ve considered using some 18-3-6 liquid fertilizer mixed with pre/post emergents on some customers lawns this year. I was planning on doing 4 applications per year mixed at 5-6 oz/1000 (recommended mix rate is 3 oz/1000 but the manufacturer says it can be mixed higher for longer intervals) Will I risk burning the grass? It still seems like such a small amount of actual N being put down, but I’ve never used liquid before so I’m still learning how it works.
Will you email me a link to the product so that I can do the math on the label? I want to be sure I tell you correct on this. We can’t have ticked off customers! Info@reelturf.com
I’m glad the N-Ext products have worked well for you. I’m certainly not saying they are bad. My results simply are not as significant as what I’ve experienced with other products. Though I didn’t talk about it in this video, I did use RGS along with my applications of 18-0-1 along with an application of Air8 in the spring. We are just too hot here for RGS. Even with the low application rate of 3oz/k I was getting tip burn once we hit the high 90s. It took some trial and error before I pinpointed RGS to be the issue. I always apply my applications in the cool part of the evening and water it in shortly after. I have no doubt the N-Ext products will work great for those in other parts of the US.
So my complaint against liquid is that it doesn't necessarily help your soil composition as much as granular apps. I'm sure it gives you a more immediate green up and I know there are some things (like iron) where that's great. But, my big complaint is that at the end of the year your soil is no more amended than it was when you started. Granular seems logical because you're amending the soil with the nutrients that the turf needs - at values that can actually impact the composition. Am I right in my train of thought here?
Let me first say- I’m not saying you’re thinking is wrong. For a minute, forget about the hype on RUclips and everything we’ve come to know about “organic” soil. At the end of the day- soil is soil. It’s job is to produce grass, plants, etc without our intervention. Organic material is something that breaks down over time. Certainly it’s good to add organic material to your lawn but my opinion is it’s not the huge “thing” it’s been made out to be. Meaning, I don’t think it’s extremely critical to be concerned that I’ve got to be adding organic material in EVERY application I give my lawn. Soil by nature, does this for us. The current craze is everybody has suddenly realized adding organic material makes a difference in the lawn. All that to say- my approach is to do an application of organic fertilizer in the spring and fall. The rest of the season I do normal fertilizer applications that follow what my soil test results provided. On the debate of granular vs liquid, there have been countless university turf studies that you can read that tested this very thing. The results of those tests have proven that liquid fertilizer applications produce superior turf quality. I’ve come to the same conclusion over the years of testing granular vs liquid on my own lawn as well. Liquid fertilizer does get absorbed through the leaf tissue but it does make its way into the soil profile as well just not in the form of a fertilizer prill. Liquid does add NPK to the soil. Perhaps the big difference is you might put down 1lb nitrogen/k in one app vs doing an 1/8 or 1/4 lb applications in liquid. As far as soil goes, I could see granular adding to the SOIL profile faster than liquid will but the turf quality is far superior with a liquid app. If you pay attention to golf course maintenance practices, they will aerate and apply granular fertilizer in the spring and fall. The rest of the season is done with liquid apps. Golf courses in my opinion are the top dog of turf management and that’s why I think the organic thing is more of a RUclips hype than anything else. However I completely agree adding in some organic nutrients can be beneficial but not necessary with every application throughout the season. Again, by no means am I telling you you’re wrong on this. Your thought process is accurate. This is what I’ve concluded with my own tests and research of turf studies conducted by universities. Great thought and question!
I understand what you’re saying. I agree that it’s generally good practice to adopt tactics that are followed by golf courses. The advantage that homeowner lawns have though is that we are small enough that we can potentially afford to treat 4000sqft differently than a golf course who may have 4000sqft on one putting green. To me, overall soil health is important, but so is the immediate visual impact I may get from liquid apps so the short answer is that I think both are good and guys like us and golf courses have the same goals. The challenge (like you’ve already addressed) is that there are a lot of liquid products out there aimed at DIY guys and promoted on RUclips that aren’t necessarily potent enough to have the desired effect guys like us want. That’s the reason you don’t see golf courses use aGCF for example :). What golf courses are able to spread and spray works on economies of scale I guess...so for me, it’s just an exercise of finding the products available to me that can give me similar results. For now that has been granular...but I do want to try the liquid fert you referenced in this video.
Hey there! You’re correct on the math. My lawn is about 5k sqft. This season I have switched to 1/8 every 2 weeks and have had substantial results. So in your case at 5 apps that would last you 2.5 months through the growing season. It’s hard to compare with granular applications. You won’t get the same results at 1/8 rate with granular. The prills would be too far in between. Most bag rates are 3/4 N per k. All that to say, liquid still gives you precise and longer lasting results over granular. It is also more cost effective. Best of luck!
I have 3 acres and i want to apply 18-3-6 liquid fertilizer to my lawn and i am having a hard time making sure i am doing it right. It told me to apply 3 oz per 1000, i did 4oz per 1000. 40gal tank
Without the label I cannot tell you for sure. At 4oz/k you would mix 1.3 gallons of fertilizer with the 40 gallon tank. However, I would caution you that you would be applying with less than 1 gallon of water per thousand square feet. The best approach would be two tank mixes depending on your turf layout and tank calibration.
@@ReelTurf thank you! I am not sure how to attach a label on here but it calls out for 3oz /k per gallon of water. All purpose liquid fertilizer with micronutrients (Pendleton turn supply). I have Bermuda sod around our house then native every where else. The net weight is 26.25# . 2.5 gal jug. So do you think i am on the right track with liquid application or not?
With your property size, liquid is definitely the way to go. I found your product label. At 3oz/k you’re putting down about 1/16 rate of Nitrogen per thousand (very low). They suggest that rate to be sprayed every two weeks (spoon feeding) which is a great approach since it contains slow release nitrogen. However let’s be real, spraying every two weeks can be challenging. You could double the rate and spray every 3-4 weeks and be fine. Totally up to you. I typically don’t go over a 1/4 rate of N in a spray application on Bermuda during the summer to avoid burning and surges of growth. Unless you’re using a plant growth regulator, you can expect to be mowing 3 times per week once the Bermuda takes off with the fertilizer app. With your property size t-nex would be highly recommended. Link in the description if interested. The PGR will help you avoid scalping, control surges of growth, and get more out of your fertilizer app. It’s the secret sauce!
Thank you gor the video, i do have a question and Can you please help me in understanding the application rate. I have a 4 gallon backpack sprayer To test a area of 1000sqft - if i use 17ounces of the liquid fertlizer in the 1000 sqft - can i just add 1 gallon water in the sprayer ,mix 17oz of fertilizer and empty the 1 gallon on the 1000sqft - Is my understanding correct? Or if i choose to add 4 gallons of water for 17oz of the fertilizer on 1000sqft, complete 4 gallons should be emptied on the 1000sqft?. This is where my confusion is ..how many gallons of water should i consider say 17oz for 1000sqft.
Hey There! What you have said is correct but let me help clarify a few things. To TEST an area- only use water first. Please if you haven't already, watch this video on how to calibrate spray tanks first- ruclips.net/video/uFRTHM9wt80/видео.html Water is used as "the carrier" so to your question- it doesn't matter if you use 1 gallon of water or 4 gallons of water as long as you get the 17oz of fertilizer (based on your label rate) down on the 1000 square foot section. However I will caution you to use at least 2 gallons of water to ensure you will not burn your turf with other materials in the future. Some materials require more water than others. Always verify this with the label. I have found that 2 gallons of water has been relatively safe for most all applications. Double check your fertilizer rate as well. If you're using 17oz of fertilizer, I'm assuming your nitrogen value is somewhere around 18% on the analysis giving you approximately 1/4 lb of N / 1000 square foot. If your N value is higher than 18% then you may be applying at higher rates near 1/2 lb of N / 1000 square foot or greater. I would encourage you to apply 1/4 rate every 2 weeks during the growing season. Greater than that and you'll cause a huge surge in growth and start scalping your turf or worse you'll burn it if you're unsure about what you're doing (not sure of your skill level with liquid apps). Please hit me up if you have more questions or if anything is unclear. I want you to be successful!
@@ReelTurf thank you very much for the detailed explanation. It all makes sense now. Yes , i will be using the 18% Nirogen liquid fertilizer and this is my first year with liquid . I do have a thick KBG lawn but only been using Granular. This year i want to get my hands on the liquid . Sure to follow your directions on the Nitogen dosage . Thank you once again for the videos. At first i liked all the lawn care videos .They are really helpful, no offence but slowly realizing that lawn care community on youtube, i kinda feel like everyone is pushing($$$) for some product or the other. Making me to lose interest in those videos. Your videos are a change in that perspective. Thanks again
I bet you will have great results! I’m glad you’re enjoying the content! I have come to the same conclusion of others pushing product. Granted I realize for those of us creating these videos, it would be nice to be compensated at some level for sharing years of experience and endless research for free. I get it. However like you stated, I’m not interested in pushing products as much as I am interested in helping you guys see through the fog and understand what it is we’re actually doing to our lawns. I’ll always recommend products along the way but certainly not trying to become a millionaire from them. My goal with this channel has always been and will continue to be to answer the things nobody is talking about. For so many years I’ve had questions and couldn’t find answers on RUclips. I had to deep dive into college research and USGA articles. I hope to keep bringing content you all will enjoy and benefit from.
😳🤯. I was given a 2.5 gal jug of 10.10.10. No where does it a say a thing for how many oZ per 1000 per gallon of water.. Actually a bit irritated. Trying fig out. 10-10-10. Should be ez for you lawn pros. What should I use
I'm new to liquid fert/weed control and a relative newb in lawn care so finding myself out of my depth is a weekly phenomenon. I just sprayed my pre emergent (Prodiamine) yesterday at a rate of 1lb/acre which equates to 0.36oz/1k sq ft. Extending that for my 24,000 sq ft lawn (yes 24k to mess with my total lack of lawn care knowledge), I arrived at 8.64oz in total. When I calibrated my tow-behind sprayer (40psi and a set, repeatable speed) I was at 0.435 gallons per 1k sq ft. So I filled up my tank with approx 11 gallons based on this formula (Total solution needed: (Total sq ft of yard / 1000) * gallons per 1000 sq ft). I was pleasantly surprised to find that I had no solution left over when I was done. So my question(s) is(are), are my calculations correct? And if so, can I keep using that instead of having to calculate for exactly 1gallon per 1000 sq ft like most liquid fertilizers recommend?
Hello. Yes, your calculations are correct. Typical spray rates are .5 to 1 gallon per 1k. This all depends on nozzle sizes and transport speed. You are probably fine with the rate of .5 gallon of water per 1k sqft for most applications. I would never recommend going lower than that. Water is simply the "carrier" for the product to the lawn. It doesn't matter if you use .5 gallon per 1k or 20 gallons per 1k. You would still be applying the same amount of product on the 1k sqft section. With that said, you should always be mindful of what products you are applying and the season you're in. If it is a hot / dry season, you should apply more water to help the turf better absorb the product and reduce your risk of burning or stressing the turf. In your case, you would either slow down the transport speed or simply drive it twice with 22-24 gallons mixed up depending on your tank size.
@@ReelTurf Thanks man! Appreciate the response. While I was trying to figure out how to get more water into the mix I realized I couldn't drive any slower as I was already at the slowest speed setting with the pedal to the floor to keep it repeatable. I also didn't want to drop the PSI to 20 but was leaning in that direction. Not sure why I didn't think of doubling the carrier and driving around twice - that's exactly what I'll do. I guess I could also turn my sprinklers on to water it in if more water is required? I watched your video of the move to SA and how the Lord Jesus provided for you guys, even to something as seemingly insignificant (in the grand scheme of things) as the color of the house. To know that He is a good father (better than any of us will ever be) is compelling and humbling. As I was reading your response to my questions, and wondering what I'd say in return, a familiar verse popped into my head and I feel lead to share it with you, not knowing what you're currently going through. John 16:33 - "I have told you these things, so that in me you may have peace. In this world you will have trouble. But take heart! I have overcome the world."
When using professional products the rate is not so many oz per gallon. Remember in the video I explained how water is simply the carrier. It doesn’t matter if I use 1 gallon per 1k sqft or 50 gallons per 1k sqft, the amount of product going down on the turf would be the same in that 1k sqft section. What it boils down to is having your spray equipment calibrated. However, given your question, I assume you’re using a 1-2 gallon pump sprayer or backpack. In that case you can expect to aim for 1 gallon of water per 1k sqft. In the instance of this fertilizer product, you can use 8-16oz per 1k sqft or per 1 gallon of water. Hope this helps and also provides insight to water as the carrier.
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Thanks, bro for teaching me something valuable! I really appreciate it. My soil test came back low Lime 4.20 ph & (total) (N 7.13) (P zero) K a little above target. I added 23 bags of pellet lime in 2022. I gotta retest again we live in NJ.
This is without a doubt the most informative instructional video regarding liquid fertilizer application rates and calculations. Thank you.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
@ user-eo8sq5eg9j You're so right. Say it again, louder for the folks in the back that's not listening!!!...😂
Thank you for going through the math. It is very helpful
Thanks! I’m glad it was helpful.
The only explanation on the web! , thanks for sharing 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Glad it helped 👍🏻
Very interesting experiment. I’m just getting on top of the maths and how it equips me to understand what exactly is in the different products on the market, and make informed decisions as to what to buy and how to apply per 1000 sq feet. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful! Hit me up if you have any specific questions info@reelturf.com
Thank you!!! Best tutorial yet
Glad you enjoyed it!
Such a great video. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks, good video and important topic. I personally prefer to use specific density in the calculations to calculate the amount of N in the liquid but not all suppliers state this on their bottles.
That's very interesting! What formula do you use to calculate your N?
I'm using Brandt Converge 18-3-6 SRN. I get it at my local Siteone store. Effective and less expensive than products like Green County liquids. And it will not stain your tank!
Awesome! There are several better options out there. Glad you found one.
@@ReelTurf What is the frequency of your applications and how much N per 1000 are you applying with each app? How much N are your applying in total over the season?
I just stumbled upon your video today and that was an excellent effort. It the first time I've seen anyone break down the math for liquid applications. Well done. I am now going to check out your other videos. It also brought up a question I had been thinking about with regard to dry vs liquid lawn applications. As I understand it, the liquids are designed for foliar application with the goal of getting the material directly to the plant for use. Which makes sense. But what if my soil is deficient in something? Let's say my soil test shows I am very low in K. It seems like no foliar application will ever address this shortage in the soil. And that in order to bump my K up to the desired level, I MUST use dry product, wetted in. Do you agree with this? The one exception I imagined might by if we made a liquid application but then watered it in right away instead of leaving it on the blades (or leaves).. What do you think?
I have often had the same thought and question. I spent some time researching this a few years ago and never found a concrete answer but here are a few things I have determined from research and personal experience. Liquid does in fact work both ways. Yes, it’s primary method of uptake is foliar but it does wash off to the soil for further uptake as well. I found this to be true when I came across liquid labels that stated to apply the fertilizer to the ground during seeding. This proving it does enhance the soil profile. The second thing I have concluded and has been the most noticeable is the difference in granular vs liquid. It’s often not a fair comparison unless you understand the application rates. I have found most granular bag rates come out to about .75 lbs N / 1k sqft whereas a liquid application is typically a lower 1/8 - 1/4 up to 1/2 rate applied more frequently. You specifically asked about boosting K and the ratios work out to be about the same. My conclusion is you can boost levels with liquid over time. If you want to boost it faster in the soil profile a granular application will do the job as it will be a higher rate. All in all, liquid still delivers the best result in turf appearance and bang for your buck. However granular in some cases when specifically asking about boosting individual soil levels, can give faster results.
Thanks for the info 🙏
Nice video man...came across it today and subscribed...just bought my first jug of liquid fert from Lesco 18-3-6...thinking about going 1/4 lb of liquid each month and see what happens...and about a pound of granular. I get about the same weather as you in Bakersfield CA....lookn forward to your content this season!
Im glad you enjoyed it! Welcome! You’ll have great results with that approach. Consider doing a split app with that granular (.5lb/k twice per month) and you’ll avoid causing a huge surge of growth resulting in scalp marks. 👍🏻
@@ReelTurf thanks for the advice....sounds like a plan 👍
When deciding to choose either a rate of .25 lbsN/1000 or .125 lbs N say every 2 weeks how important is total nitrogen for the season? What range of total season amount of N should we shoot for? Very good vid btw. I just subscribed.
Hello Rich and welcome to the channel! The answer to your question is, it depends on several factors. Yes there is plenty of research and information available about what the total nitrogen inputs should be for turf varieties during a given growth season. This is the standard rule of thumb to generally have healthy turf. Now, taking it a step further on the “it depends”. It depends on your situation. How frequently do you mow, what turf type, what area of the country, are you using plant growth regulator, and what height of cut are you mowing at? I’ve kept my approach simple. In these videos you are seeing a heights of cut range from 3/8” down to .1406” on the putting green. I use plant growth regulator to slow down the vertical height, not the actual growth of the plant. Because I’m mowing low and frequently, I apply lower rates (1/8) every two weeks to provide a continual spoon feeding throughout the growing season. When it needs an extra kick I’ll use 1/4 rate. My reasoning for the lower input is to eliminate waste of product by frequently mowing it off. It also reduces the surge in growth you will see in Bermuda which will often result in ugly scalp spots. On the other hand let’s say you’re not mowing that low, let’s be honest, not every lawn is that flat and not everyone has a greens mower. If you’re using a rotary and mowing above 1”, you can simply hit it with 1/4 rate every 3-5 weeks and enjoy a green lawn. To keep it simple- the lower the height of cut, the more applications at lower rates are necessary. The higher heights of cut can take heavier rates in fewer applications. If you stick with this approach, you’ll find your lawn will continually remain green and you will meet your yearly minimum for nitrogen inputs for the season. Hope this helps. Reach out if you have further questions. I’m always happy to help!
@@ReelTurf thank you so much for the very helpful and comprehensive response.
@@ReelTurf A thesis for a response! Refreshing that you took the time to type all that out. Subbed! I do have a question of my own and hope you'll find time to respond to it as well!
Thanks for the great video. Just found your channel and enjoy it very much. My question is do you strictly use liquid fert. as opposed to granular. I am interested in this aspect of spoon feeding which I am now doing with Granular. Thanks again for the great vid's and keep them coming.
Hey there! Glad you’re enjoying the channel. I do strictly use liquid fertilizer with the exception of new seeding. It may be personal preference more than anything. I like liquid because I get more applications for my money. For instance, I can spray at 1/8 rate every two weeks throughout the growing season where you can’t do that with granular. With granular you simply won’t get enough prills on the ground to matter. That’s why you’ll find most “bag” rates are actually 3/4 lb applications of N. I prefer the precision, instant green up, and the control it gives me over the growth. When I used granular I always found myself struggling with surges of growth and when it got mowed it looked terrible all of the time. The reel would scalp and often the grass had a yellow look to it. You’ll find yourself constantly raising the mowing height through the summer to combat the bad look and before you know it, you’ve got an overgrown yard that doesn’t look good. Yes, there is certainly some up front costs of spray equipment but it has paid for itself time and time again. I also enjoy being able to spray plant growth regulator, pesticides, and fungicides all in the same mix. Liquid gives me full control of the yard and the results are amazing!
@@ReelTurf Thanks so much I think I”Il give it a try. I am spoon feeding every two weeks anyway once with granular and once with liquid. Just have to figure out the receipe. I”ll be following and thanks again
New sub, which liquid Fert are you using now as the link in description says unavailable now. Thanks!
Welcome and thanks for the heads up! I've updated the links in the description.
Question: I'm using a 12-4-8 liquid fertilizer. When I do the math based on the recommended application of 8oz per 1,000 sf, I come up with 0.075 lb of N per 1,000. Is that too low of an application? Do I need to make sure I'm putting down 1/8 lb (.128 lbs) of N per 1,000 for spoon feeding as you recommend in this video?
Hey there! Please send me the label to info@reelturf.com and I’ll be happy to check the math on it.
@@ReelTurf sent thanks
hey there, really good video. The most important is to know the maximum amount of nitrogen or the other stuff with out burning. I make many experiments on this , and in get many results. Does anyone has done something similar to this?
Glad you enjoyed it! You’ll find on most labels .5 lb/k of liquid Nitrogen is about the max. Remember liquid works differently than granular. There is really no need for an application of liquid greater than .5/lb. beyond that, you’re just wasting product unnecessarily. You would be surprised that I’ve sprayed my lawn at 1/8 rate every two weeks and have had outstanding results this year. The labels vary but the greatest factor is the mowing height to determine how much liquid and how often it is needed.
Thanks for the reply. Yes soil test had been done by co op . Yesterday I applied ..3468 to the lawn, 3hrs later we had an unforeseen heavy.rain . I'm trying to build a thicker heavier growth in areas that didnt (stay green) during winter, though some areas stayed very green and lush all winter . I think that was due to heavier N applications there in fall . Banded edging excess fertilizer overlap next to driveway ? I recently have purchased Scotts Turf Builder granular 32-0-4. whats your take on applying this in about 1 week for continued feeding for the next 6 to 8 weeks . . approx 6000 sq ft lawn . Quite a bit of chickweed but I'm concentrating on grass first then the weeds .especially in last falls overseeded areas . Transition area turftype tall fescue Houndog blend .
The granular will be fine. The application rate will likely be about 3/4 lb of N per K so no need to overdo it. Unless you had fertilizer sitting on the turf that didn’t water in, it’s unlikely to be nitrogen burn from overlap. In your struggling areas I would investigate the irrigation. This is often the last thing people think of. Determine if the areas received proper water or in your case maybe too much? High traffic area? Wind blown area through winter? Standing snow or ice for a period of time. Things like that could be the issue. Get a lead rake in there to loosen things up to allow water and air to get in there if needed. Good approach with healthy turf first and weeds later. Weeds are easy to get rid of. Unless it’s overtaking the yard, I recommend spot spraying over a blanket application.
with liquid folier applications and my soil is very high in P and K . would you recommend a nitrogen only formulation as the leaves do the uptake Will the soils inherent high P and K still provide the balance necessary? Much of the lawn was reseeded last fall TTTF PH is 6.7 seems like it would need some folier P and K for the leaf structure ? My liquid fertilizer is 20-0-0 And with 1/8 lb per app seems not very productive in growth
Hello your question is something I’ve pondered many times as well. The logic makes sense but I will tell you that after much research I learned that foliar applications are not only absorbed through the leaf. It makes its way into the soil as well. I’m going to assume you know your levels based on a soil test. With this in mind your soil has adequate or high levels of PK. You are right on track with a 20-0-0 approach. 1/8th rate during spring isn’t going to perform well for a couple of reasons. The turf has recently broke free of winter temps. Now that we are in May, you’ll see turf begin to take off. Generally during spring the turf needs a little kick. I typically will do 1/4 rate every two weeks for about 2-3 applications before pulling back to 1/8 rate. Secondly the results you’re seeing now can also be a result of nutrition if any that was provided fall/winter. All that to say, don’t be discouraged. You’re on the right track and just need to give it a few punches of Nitrogen to get it to green up.
I should also add your turf is getting the nutrients of PK from the soil. You do not need to add any more PK this season in a foliar app.
Great video..I’m with you all the way with the maths until you get to the line where you say ..1oz of product contains 0.0148 N. I get that. And 8 ozs contains 8x0.0148=0.119 ozs of N. But how do you calculate that 0.119 ozs is 1/8 of a lb..? Am I missing something?
8oz of liquid x .0148 LB of NITROGEN = .119 LBS of NITROGEN. (1/8 = .125 which is very close to .119) Hope that helps 👍🏻glad you enjoyed it!
Many thanks for your quick response. I know where I made my mistake and why it did not add up. I said there was 0.0148 ozs N in one oz of product, when I should have said 0.0148 LBS… No wonder I was wrecking my head trying to work it out.
Any thoughts on how I might make a high % N liquid fertiliser myself here in Ireland?
Sorry, can’t advise you on making your own fertilizer.
Thank you for sharing this. I also saw your video on your sprayer and am planning to build one. I was wondering if you mix this with PGRs? This seems like it would be more efficient to spray this monthly along with a liquid fertilizer. I also read that you need a minimum of 2 gal/1000 water (carrier) for liquid ferts, which would require larger nozzles. What is your application rate per 1000?
Good luck with your build! It’s a sweet setup! Yes you can mix other items in your tank mix. I’ll mix plant growth regulator along with fungicides and bug stuff in my mix every so often. It’s totally ok to do that but always verify your labels first. Some need to mixed in a particular order. Never mix it with a herbicide and blanket spray your property. If you haven’t seen it already, watch this video on calibrating your tank sprayers - m.ruclips.net/video/uFRTHM9wt80/видео.html
I aim to get 2 gallons / thousand square foot down with whatever I spray. You don’t necessarily need bigger nozzles, you just might adjust your pressure or your walk speed to hit that target. I spray my property twice (not double spraying chemical) to get that coverage. Not everything out there requires 2 gallons/k but for those starting out with liquid, it’s a safe goal to aim for.
I’ve considered using some 18-3-6 liquid fertilizer mixed with pre/post emergents on some customers lawns this year. I was planning on doing 4 applications per year mixed at 5-6 oz/1000 (recommended mix rate is 3 oz/1000 but the manufacturer says it can be mixed higher for longer intervals)
Will I risk burning the grass? It still seems like such a small amount of actual N being put down, but I’ve never used liquid before so I’m still learning how it works.
Will you email me a link to the product so that I can do the math on the label? I want to be sure I tell you correct on this. We can’t have ticked off customers! Info@reelturf.com
Interesting. I use 18-0-1 because I don’t need any phosphorus and I like the results but I also use the biostimulants.
I’m glad the N-Ext products have worked well for you. I’m certainly not saying they are bad. My results simply are not as significant as what I’ve experienced with other products. Though I didn’t talk about it in this video, I did use RGS along with my applications of 18-0-1 along with an application of Air8 in the spring. We are just too hot here for RGS. Even with the low application rate of 3oz/k I was getting tip burn once we hit the high 90s. It took some trial and error before I pinpointed RGS to be the issue. I always apply my applications in the cool part of the evening and water it in shortly after.
I have no doubt the N-Ext products will work great for those in other parts of the US.
So my complaint against liquid is that it doesn't necessarily help your soil composition as much as granular apps. I'm sure it gives you a more immediate green up and I know there are some things (like iron) where that's great. But, my big complaint is that at the end of the year your soil is no more amended than it was when you started. Granular seems logical because you're amending the soil with the nutrients that the turf needs - at values that can actually impact the composition.
Am I right in my train of thought here?
Let me first say- I’m not saying you’re thinking is wrong. For a minute, forget about the hype on RUclips and everything we’ve come to know about “organic” soil. At the end of the day- soil is soil. It’s job is to produce grass, plants, etc without our intervention. Organic material is something that breaks down over time. Certainly it’s good to add organic material to your lawn but my opinion is it’s not the huge “thing” it’s been made out to be. Meaning, I don’t think it’s extremely critical to be concerned that I’ve got to be adding organic material in EVERY application I give my lawn. Soil by nature, does this for us. The current craze is everybody has suddenly realized adding organic material makes a difference in the lawn. All that to say- my approach is to do an application of organic fertilizer in the spring and fall. The rest of the season I do normal fertilizer applications that follow what my soil test results provided. On the debate of granular vs liquid, there have been countless university turf studies that you can read that tested this very thing. The results of those tests have proven that liquid fertilizer applications produce superior turf quality. I’ve come to the same conclusion over the years of testing granular vs liquid on my own lawn as well. Liquid fertilizer does get absorbed through the leaf tissue but it does make its way into the soil profile as well just not in the form of a fertilizer prill. Liquid does add NPK to the soil. Perhaps the big difference is you might put down 1lb nitrogen/k in one app vs doing an 1/8 or 1/4 lb applications in liquid. As far as soil goes, I could see granular adding to the SOIL profile faster than liquid will but the turf quality is far superior with a liquid app.
If you pay attention to golf course maintenance practices, they will aerate and apply granular fertilizer in the spring and fall. The rest of the season is done with liquid apps. Golf courses in my opinion are the top dog of turf management and that’s why I think the organic thing is more of a RUclips hype than anything else. However I completely agree adding in some organic nutrients can be beneficial but not necessary with every application throughout the season.
Again, by no means am I telling you you’re wrong on this. Your thought process is accurate. This is what I’ve concluded with my own tests and research of turf studies conducted by universities.
Great thought and question!
I understand what you’re saying. I agree that it’s generally good practice to adopt tactics that are followed by golf courses. The advantage that homeowner lawns have though is that we are small enough that we can potentially afford to treat 4000sqft differently than a golf course who may have 4000sqft on one putting green. To me, overall soil health is important, but so is the immediate visual impact I may get from liquid apps so the short answer is that I think both are good and guys like us and golf courses have the same goals. The challenge (like you’ve already addressed) is that there are a lot of liquid products out there aimed at DIY guys and promoted on RUclips that aren’t necessarily potent enough to have the desired effect guys like us want. That’s the reason you don’t see golf courses use aGCF for example :). What golf courses are able to spread and spray works on economies of scale I guess...so for me, it’s just an exercise of finding the products available to me that can give me similar results. For now that has been granular...but I do want to try the liquid fert you referenced in this video.
So 8oz per K is what you use for 1/8lb of N? How big is your lawn? Mine is 8K sq ft and am I right in assuming this 2.5 gal jug would last 5 apps?
Hey there! You’re correct on the math. My lawn is about 5k sqft. This season I have switched to 1/8 every 2 weeks and have had substantial results. So in your case at 5 apps that would last you 2.5 months through the growing season. It’s hard to compare with granular applications. You won’t get the same results at 1/8 rate with granular. The prills would be too far in between. Most bag rates are 3/4 N per k. All that to say, liquid still gives you precise and longer lasting results over granular. It is also more cost effective. Best of luck!
@@ReelTurf Ok thanks. Do you continue to fertilize this way in the summer months as well?
Yes. I spray 1/4 twice during the spring to kick start everything. 1/8 thereafter through the summer and fall.
I have 3 acres and i want to apply 18-3-6 liquid fertilizer to my lawn and i am having a hard time making sure i am doing it right. It told me to apply 3 oz per 1000, i did 4oz per 1000. 40gal tank
Without the label I cannot tell you for sure. At 4oz/k you would mix 1.3 gallons of fertilizer with the 40 gallon tank. However, I would caution you that you would be applying with less than 1 gallon of water per thousand square feet. The best approach would be two tank mixes depending on your turf layout and tank calibration.
@@ReelTurf thank you! I am not sure how to attach a label on here but it calls out for 3oz /k per gallon of water. All purpose liquid fertilizer with micronutrients (Pendleton turn supply). I have Bermuda sod around our house then native every where else. The net weight is 26.25# . 2.5 gal jug. So do you think i am on the right track with liquid application or not?
With your property size, liquid is definitely the way to go. I found your product label. At 3oz/k you’re putting down about 1/16 rate of Nitrogen per thousand (very low). They suggest that rate to be sprayed every two weeks (spoon feeding) which is a great approach since it contains slow release nitrogen. However let’s be real, spraying every two weeks can be challenging. You could double the rate and spray every 3-4 weeks and be fine. Totally up to you. I typically don’t go over a 1/4 rate of N in a spray application on Bermuda during the summer to avoid burning and surges of growth. Unless you’re using a plant growth regulator, you can expect to be mowing 3 times per week once the Bermuda takes off with the fertilizer app. With your property size t-nex would be highly recommended. Link in the description if interested. The PGR will help you avoid scalping, control surges of growth, and get more out of your fertilizer app. It’s the secret sauce!
Can you also do in kgs n sqm
Thank you gor the video, i do have a question and Can you please help me in understanding the application rate.
I have a 4 gallon backpack sprayer
To test a area of 1000sqft - if i use 17ounces of the liquid fertlizer in the 1000 sqft - can i just add 1 gallon water in the sprayer ,mix 17oz of fertilizer and empty the 1 gallon on the 1000sqft - Is my understanding correct?
Or if i choose to add 4 gallons of water for 17oz of the fertilizer on 1000sqft, complete 4 gallons should be emptied on the 1000sqft?. This is where my confusion is ..how many gallons of water should i consider say 17oz for 1000sqft.
Hey There! What you have said is correct but let me help clarify a few things. To TEST an area- only use water first. Please if you haven't already, watch this video on how to calibrate spray tanks first- ruclips.net/video/uFRTHM9wt80/видео.html Water is used as "the carrier" so to your question- it doesn't matter if you use 1 gallon of water or 4 gallons of water as long as you get the 17oz of fertilizer (based on your label rate) down on the 1000 square foot section. However I will caution you to use at least 2 gallons of water to ensure you will not burn your turf with other materials in the future. Some materials require more water than others. Always verify this with the label. I have found that 2 gallons of water has been relatively safe for most all applications. Double check your fertilizer rate as well. If you're using 17oz of fertilizer, I'm assuming your nitrogen value is somewhere around 18% on the analysis giving you approximately 1/4 lb of N / 1000 square foot. If your N value is higher than 18% then you may be applying at higher rates near 1/2 lb of N / 1000 square foot or greater. I would encourage you to apply 1/4 rate every 2 weeks during the growing season. Greater than that and you'll cause a huge surge in growth and start scalping your turf or worse you'll burn it if you're unsure about what you're doing (not sure of your skill level with liquid apps). Please hit me up if you have more questions or if anything is unclear. I want you to be successful!
@@ReelTurf thank you very much for the detailed explanation. It all makes sense now. Yes , i will be using the 18% Nirogen liquid fertilizer and this is my first year with liquid . I do have a thick KBG lawn but only been using Granular. This year i want to get my hands on the liquid . Sure to follow your directions on the Nitogen dosage . Thank you once again for the videos. At first i liked all the lawn care videos .They are really helpful, no offence but slowly realizing that lawn care community on youtube, i kinda feel like everyone is pushing($$$) for some product or the other. Making me to lose interest in those videos. Your videos are a change in that perspective. Thanks again
I bet you will have great results! I’m glad you’re enjoying the content! I have come to the same conclusion of others pushing product. Granted I realize for those of us creating these videos, it would be nice to be compensated at some level for sharing years of experience and endless research for free. I get it. However like you stated, I’m not interested in pushing products as much as I am interested in helping you guys see through the fog and understand what it is we’re actually doing to our lawns. I’ll always recommend products along the way but certainly not trying to become a millionaire from them. My goal with this channel has always been and will continue to be to answer the things nobody is talking about. For so many years I’ve had questions and couldn’t find answers on RUclips. I had to deep dive into college research and USGA articles. I hope to keep bringing content you all will enjoy and benefit from.
😳🤯. I was given a 2.5 gal jug of 10.10.10. No where does it a say a thing for how many oZ per 1000 per gallon of water..
Actually a bit irritated. Trying fig out.
10-10-10. Should be ez for you lawn pros. What should I use
Ha! Send me a picture of the label to info@reelturf.com so I can help you out!
What about DEF, ?
How would this be converted to oz per gallon?
Typically you would want to mix your product with 2 gallons of water per 1k sqft.
Where is it located?
I’m not sure what you are asking. I’m guessing you’re looking for the granular calculation video? ruclips.net/video/7PpwD0uOLHo/видео.html
I'm new to liquid fert/weed control and a relative newb in lawn care so finding myself out of my depth is a weekly phenomenon.
I just sprayed my pre emergent (Prodiamine) yesterday at a rate of 1lb/acre which equates to 0.36oz/1k sq ft. Extending that for my 24,000 sq ft lawn (yes 24k to mess with my total lack of lawn care knowledge), I arrived at 8.64oz in total.
When I calibrated my tow-behind sprayer (40psi and a set, repeatable speed) I was at 0.435 gallons per 1k sq ft. So I filled up my tank with approx 11 gallons based on this formula (Total solution needed:
(Total sq ft of yard / 1000) * gallons per 1000 sq ft). I was pleasantly surprised to find that I had no solution left over when I was done.
So my question(s) is(are), are my calculations correct? And if so, can I keep using that instead of having to calculate for exactly 1gallon per 1000 sq ft like most liquid fertilizers recommend?
Hello. Yes, your calculations are correct. Typical spray rates are .5 to 1 gallon per 1k. This all depends on nozzle sizes and transport speed. You are probably fine with the rate of .5 gallon of water per 1k sqft for most applications. I would never recommend going lower than that. Water is simply the "carrier" for the product to the lawn. It doesn't matter if you use .5 gallon per 1k or 20 gallons per 1k. You would still be applying the same amount of product on the 1k sqft section. With that said, you should always be mindful of what products you are applying and the season you're in. If it is a hot / dry season, you should apply more water to help the turf better absorb the product and reduce your risk of burning or stressing the turf. In your case, you would either slow down the transport speed or simply drive it twice with 22-24 gallons mixed up depending on your tank size.
@@ReelTurf Thanks man! Appreciate the response. While I was trying to figure out how to get more water into the mix I realized I couldn't drive any slower as I was already at the slowest speed setting with the pedal to the floor to keep it repeatable. I also didn't want to drop the PSI to 20 but was leaning in that direction. Not sure why I didn't think of doubling the carrier and driving around twice - that's exactly what I'll do. I guess I could also turn my sprinklers on to water it in if more water is required?
I watched your video of the move to SA and how the Lord Jesus provided for you guys, even to something as seemingly insignificant (in the grand scheme of things) as the color of the house. To know that He is a good father (better than any of us will ever be) is compelling and humbling. As I was reading your response to my questions, and wondering what I'd say in return, a familiar verse popped into my head and I feel lead to share it with you, not knowing what you're currently going through.
John 16:33 - "I have told you these things, so that in me you may have peace. In this world you will have trouble. But take heart! I have overcome the world."
Why don't you tell me how many ounces per gallon of water?
When using professional products the rate is not so many oz per gallon. Remember in the video I explained how water is simply the carrier. It doesn’t matter if I use 1 gallon per 1k sqft or 50 gallons per 1k sqft, the amount of product going down on the turf would be the same in that 1k sqft section. What it boils down to is having your spray equipment calibrated. However, given your question, I assume you’re using a 1-2 gallon pump sprayer or backpack. In that case you can expect to aim for 1 gallon of water per 1k sqft. In the instance of this fertilizer product, you can use 8-16oz per 1k sqft or per 1 gallon of water. Hope this helps and also provides insight to water as the carrier.
There’s No product in the product just Stinky water 💦 green county