Thanks for the video clip! Today he helped me graft two branches onto a sylvestris pine. I didn't have putty or fasteners, but I used beeswax and raffia. Now it remains to wait. Good luck!
Beeswax and raffia is fine, although you have to check on raffia every month as it breaks down fast and replace if necessary. It is a good time to do it now as sylvestris thicken fast in August. If the graft was really tight, you should be 100% successful in early summer of 2025. Otherwise it's kinda risky to separate. It takes more time than grafting but it is 100% successful if you are patient. Good luck!
@@ArkefthosBonsai tnx boss , I have some pics I don’t know where I can send to you . 1 months and they are alive ahhaha I’m happy. I tried to remove the bag from the graft, seems ok
Thank you! Just saw your today's video. I was thinking the same thing. Getting ready for foliar fertilizing, that I should apply in the evening. Cheers!
Good question. In most cases separation is done on less than 12 months. Perhaps next June for these. It depends on the species, the health and vigor of the tree and the quality of the technique. Cheers!
It depends on the scions used. Some species tend to do so. But in approach grafting the thickness difference is quite big, so the building will be unimportant. Plus, after the cut is succesfull, you can cut the trunk in a steep angle and remove the vast majority of the graft union (so the bulge as well) and keep just the edge of the graft along with the scion. Gebellnerally bulging is not a problem in these kinds of graft. Cheers!
It's not necessary. Fusing it is just a matter of time, why introduce more danger by removing the bark from a small scion. Even if not done properly and fusion of cambiums doesn't happen along the whole length of the scion, it is geometricaly INEVITABLE that it will fuse in the entrance and the exit points of the graft. Ive done a more detailed video on this graft, this past June ruclips.net/video/uE5JLUdUJGE/видео.htmlsi=p_W8HLKy65-q7tzy Here is explained better. Cheers!
@Cbridge9907 approach grafting goes hand in hand with patience. More than 12 months is not uncommon. Just wait with patience and the result will be 100% successful! Good luck!
This is another way of grafting. Either graft like my recent video (with a scion - a cut branch) or graft like this, with an alive one and wait a few months. I explain everything in the captions - subtitles.
Hi, I watched your video about grafting pines, and I am preparing to graft a Scots pine by bringing its own branches closer to the trunk of an old, cracked, approximately 30-year-old tree. I am from Poland, and here the proper time for grafting is January-February because later any wound is quickly covered with resin. If you don't mind, I would like to ask a few questions that are troubling me. Could you please provide information on how long and with what success you have been using this grafting method? Could you explain why you use paste instead of dedicated grafting film? Would a foil tape wrapped around the grafting site offer any benefit? Furthermore, I wanted to ask why you do not prepare the scion, i.e., why you do not remove the bark and expose the cambium tissue. Wouldn't this accelerate the grafting process, or is it because the resin might interfere with the tissue connection? Also, to improve the success of the grafting, should I restrict the growth of other parts of the plant except for the grafted area to direct energy to the grafting site, or should I just leave it alone and not perform any treatments on the pine?
I've answered you on Instagram david. Everything except the last question. You should let everything run so that you get the fastest thickening possible. Don't prune anything. Cheers!
Excellent video thanks. Am i correct in saying the grafting material looks like a white pine (negishi?) But the parent plant looks like a scots? Is the long term plan to eventually remove the upper foliage once the lower takes?
Enable captions! I have subtitles to explain everything! Yes, you are correct. For the first tree I grafted Pinus parviflora "Smooth" onto Pinus nigra. Second is Pinus sylvestris "Watereri" onto nigra. Yes, once the grafts take, I will remove everything above the graft. Cheers!
Hi, yes, in the old times people used to wound both, but now is clear that it is not needed. If you hold the scion in there tight enough, the swelling of both trunks make the fusing of the branches inevitable, while wounding the scion as well may compromise it's health. You definately don't need to make wound on the small scion. 3 months later, the second approach graft look s to have already fused (see my latest video, UPDATES). Cheers!
Yes Lukasz, when I'm certain they have fused together, I remove the donor tree and I remove the nails. Usually 12 or 13 months after the grafting. Cheers!
Great Timmy! So if this is a bonsai already been developed for a number of years, then you would prefer approach grafting with one of it's own branches. If you have a long bendable branch that can bend to a point where one bud can be at the wanted grafting point, then bend it, secure it's place and then move on with grafting as seen at the video. That way you will have guaranteed identical foliage. If this is not possible, then try to find another white pine with identical foliage and approach graft as I did. Cheers!
Hello, I have a mature pine tree that looks ugly because of the shade created a bald spot on one side of the tree, how difficult it is to graft a separate tree on to the main trunk so I can create new branches to balance it a bit? How big of the branch should it be for the one potted? Thanks.
It's quite easy Ken! I would say a pencil size branch from a donor tree would be ideal. Make sure the groove you make is deep enough so that the graft can sit just barely inside the cambium layer of your mature pine, wide enough so that the graft can fit quite tight inside (if you manage to have to use some force to insert it, that will be perfect) and I would say at least an inch long. Fasten it with double nails into place., deep enough so that they barely wound the graft and push it in. And lastly you will need patience. If your mature tree is vigorous and strong, you will get a successful graft within the season. But you can wait for another year just to be sure. I'm preparing to do some field grafting like that myself and I will start in mid April. Good luck!
@@ArkefthosBonsaiThank you. I see you pluck the needles off the green bark section of the donor tree, is that all that's needed for the graft to happen, or I need to wound the donor branch more to create contact patch? Thanks.
Wounding the graft is old school. I would not do it. If you do the technique right, having at least 2 points where there is 100% chance of success (the entry and the exit points) is inevitable. Wounding the scion just introduces dangers of it failing. So no wound but more patience is my technique.
If you mean approach grafting like I did in the video, whenever you find time. With in mind that pines thicken faster in late summer, I would prefer approach grafting just before that. But this kind of grafting takes time to complete and fuse together. Even up to 2 years. Now, for scion grafting there are two good seasons. Late winter - early spring and early autumn. For that, the most important are the conditions. You'll need to keep favourable conditions for at least 2 months for the grafts to fuse. Let me know if you need more information Karl, cheers!
Steve, in a few months I will cut the tree above the graft and I will grow a hole bonsai from the grafted branch on the the 8 year old trunk, giving me a compact tree with a good trunk. Hope it is clear what it will become in summer. Cheers!
Nice video. Few quick questions would u have better sucess if u match them cambium to cambium and what if the branch is thicker do u want to put a bigger gash in the tree.? How does the tree accept the graft it just scars over it and its good? I want to do this to my pine but afraid if it doesnt take im going to have a big scar so i was thinking cambium to cambium would have better results? What do u think
When you say cambium to cambium, you mean normal veneer side scion graft? I'm guessing that is what you mean. So, side veneer graft has lower success rate. Less scaring but quite more difficult. Approach graft, if done right, has 100% success rate. Yes it scars more, but healing these scars until it becomes invisible is just a matter of time and patience. Yes, with bugger approach grafts you dig more into the trunk but they are going to have the same healing time. Bigger branches will swell and fuse faster. In pines the scar should not concern you that much, since they produce rough bark easy and fast and they will "mask" the wound. If done right, approach graft is safe, so I say go for it. Just have patience. Cheers Chris!
@@ArkefthosBonsai ok thanks alot. Yes in what i mean was skin the trunk to the cambium and skin the graft to the cambium and put them together so its raised off of the trunk. When i say large branch its prob about pinky thick. I just dont want to go too far down into the trunk but i guess ill try this method . The branch i am trying has alot of ramification on it and i dont want to cut any of it off. And its already part of the parent plant so its more like a whip just in the wrong spot. Thanks for the help
If you have time go and check my last Japanese black pine video. 4 weeks ago. During styling I made an approach graft like the one you mention (but smaller branch). It's at 7.22 of the video. This will probably help. Pinky thick branches are doable though. Try to get the grafted branch flush with the bark of the trunk to get an invisible scar sooner.
@@ArkefthosBonsai sorry for all the questions im new to pines but how deep is the deepest u can go by doing this and how does the tree take to the graft does it just roll over the graft and then the graft is part of the tree?
Haven't seen anything from you for a while. My maple-thingy is still doing allright, but I can't get the birds to stop digging up my moss coverings. Any advice - anybody?
Nice to "see" you again. I have the exact same annoying problem. They damaged all the beautifuly applied moss on my trees. Plus, they attack the bark as well, which is unacceptable. I dealt with this by covering the soil and the pots with shade cloth. Helps with the heat as well, deals with birds and does not interfere with watering. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Ha - I've just decided to make a tiny scare crow out of some soldior toy. Won't help, but it will make me laugh, when I see it.. If it's only a single or two territotial birds, mabe booby traps with rubber bands could teach them a lesson.. B)
@@CONEHEADDK ha ha soon they will stop. Here July was annoying. Now they are slowing down. But shade cloth did stop them 100% with no victims in any side!
Once the the branches fuse with the new trunk, all of the tree above the graft will be removed and I will create a bonsai tree from the grafted branches. Small but with a relatively powerful trunk. Cheers!
Wow beautiful Bonsai Thank you for good sharing 😊 Include LIKE 54 , I leave 3 presents 🎁 My friend, always Stay connected. Have a nice day 😊 & Welcome to my channel ~~
OK Steve. First, it is definatly not a tutorial. It's a diary format. Second, you failing in something doesn't make it wrong, or mangle, or useless, it is just your failure. Others, more experienced will succeed. Third, you are welcome to follow these trees as they become truly beautiful bonsai trees in the next years, starting from removing the top part of the 8 year old tree in June. Have fun mate!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Yep trees have been doing their own style of grafting or fusion quite successfully for a few years now 😁. We humans have been doing it successfully (most of the time) for a fair chunk of time too. All good mate 👍
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Please enable captions!
Brilliant thanks. I didn't know captions was a thing! Will change that now. Thanks again for your excellent videos. Keep them coming. 👍
Thank you!
Thanks for the video clip! Today he helped me graft two branches onto a sylvestris pine. I didn't have putty or fasteners, but I used beeswax and raffia. Now it remains to wait.
Good luck!
Beeswax and raffia is fine, although you have to check on raffia every month as it breaks down fast and replace if necessary. It is a good time to do it now as sylvestris thicken fast in August. If the graft was really tight, you should be 100% successful in early summer of 2025. Otherwise it's kinda risky to separate. It takes more time than grafting but it is 100% successful if you are patient. Good luck!
@@ArkefthosBonsai
You make it all look so easy that I want to rush out and find some material to do myself. Cheers.
Thank you Xavier! It's quite easy. You should get some material that suits your vision and try it now, so you'll enjoy a new tree in a few months!
True inspiration!!
Thank you! Good luck on your grafts!
@@ArkefthosBonsai tnx boss , I have some pics I don’t know where I can send to you . 1 months and they are alive ahhaha I’m happy. I tried to remove the bag from the graft, seems ok
@Heisennnnberg000 Instagram or mail. I would love to see them!
Such a great video, all great explained activating subtitles..... Thanks for all your work. A pleasure to see your vieos....
Thank you! Just saw your today's video. I was thinking the same thing. Getting ready for foliar fertilizing, that I should apply in the evening. Cheers!
Amazing! Well done!
Σε ευχαριστώ Χρήστο!
May i ask do you remove the nail in the future after the graft taken or just leave it there?
Yes, I do. Check out the last video I uploaded. I explain everything there, with schematics, of the future work of approach grafting. Cheers!
Hi brother.. How many months will recover ..Thank you .
Good question. In most cases separation is done on less than 12 months. Perhaps next June for these. It depends on the species, the health and vigor of the tree and the quality of the technique. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai oohh thank you brother for sharing..
Will it cause inverse taper with time and bulges like grafted trees tend to?😢😢😢
It depends on the scions used. Some species tend to do so. But in approach grafting the thickness difference is quite big, so the building will be unimportant. Plus, after the cut is succesfull, you can cut the trunk in a steep angle and remove the vast majority of the graft union (so the bulge as well) and keep just the edge of the graft along with the scion. Gebellnerally bulging is not a problem in these kinds of graft. Cheers!
Can’t wait to see how this turns out!
It is indeed exciting Jef!
Interesting that you don't expose camdium on the sion wood before attaching it to the stock.
It's not necessary. Fusing it is just a matter of time, why introduce more danger by removing the bark from a small scion. Even if not done properly and fusion of cambiums doesn't happen along the whole length of the scion, it is geometricaly INEVITABLE that it will fuse in the entrance and the exit points of the graft. Ive done a more detailed video on this graft, this past June ruclips.net/video/uE5JLUdUJGE/видео.htmlsi=p_W8HLKy65-q7tzy
Here is explained better. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai thank you for providing further information. I will definitely try your method.
@Cbridge9907 approach grafting goes hand in hand with patience. More than 12 months is not uncommon. Just wait with patience and the result will be 100% successful! Good luck!
can it be grafted with a cut branch?
This is another way of grafting. Either graft like my recent video (with a scion - a cut branch) or graft like this, with an alive one and wait a few months. I explain everything in the captions - subtitles.
Hi, I watched your video about grafting pines, and I am preparing to graft a Scots pine by bringing its own branches closer to the trunk of an old, cracked, approximately 30-year-old tree. I am from Poland, and here the proper time for grafting is January-February because later any wound is quickly covered with resin. If you don't mind, I would like to ask a few questions that are troubling me.
Could you please provide information on how long and with what success you have been using this grafting method? Could you explain why you use paste instead of dedicated grafting film? Would a foil tape wrapped around the grafting site offer any benefit? Furthermore, I wanted to ask why you do not prepare the scion, i.e., why you do not remove the bark and expose the cambium tissue. Wouldn't this accelerate the grafting process, or is it because the resin might interfere with the tissue connection?
Also, to improve the success of the grafting, should I restrict the growth of other parts of the plant except for the grafted area to direct energy to the grafting site, or should I just leave it alone and not perform any treatments on the pine?
I've answered you on Instagram david. Everything except the last question. You should let everything run so that you get the fastest thickening possible. Don't prune anything. Cheers!
Excellent video thanks. Am i correct in saying the grafting material looks like a white pine (negishi?) But the parent plant looks like a scots? Is the long term plan to eventually remove the upper foliage once the lower takes?
Enable captions! I have subtitles to explain everything! Yes, you are correct. For the first tree I grafted Pinus parviflora "Smooth" onto Pinus nigra. Second is Pinus sylvestris "Watereri" onto nigra. Yes, once the grafts take, I will remove everything above the graft. Cheers!
you made wound on nigra but not on attached branch. will bark melts and fused?
Hi, yes, in the old times people used to wound both, but now is clear that it is not needed. If you hold the scion in there tight enough, the swelling of both trunks make the fusing of the branches inevitable, while wounding the scion as well may compromise it's health. You definately don't need to make wound on the small scion. 3 months later, the second approach graft look s to have already fused (see my latest video, UPDATES). Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Thankyou!
Do you remove staple?
Yes Lukasz, when I'm certain they have fused together, I remove the donor tree and I remove the nails. Usually 12 or 13 months after the grafting. Cheers!
I have a large white pine with no bottom branches I want to try to graft a branch on the bottom
Great Timmy! So if this is a bonsai already been developed for a number of years, then you would prefer approach grafting with one of it's own branches. If you have a long bendable branch that can bend to a point where one bud can be at the wanted grafting point, then bend it, secure it's place and then move on with grafting as seen at the video. That way you will have guaranteed identical foliage. If this is not possible, then try to find another white pine with identical foliage and approach graft as I did. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai thank for the advice
Hello, I have a mature pine tree that looks ugly because of the shade created a bald spot on one side of the tree, how difficult it is to graft a separate tree on to the main trunk so I can create new branches to balance it a bit? How big of the branch should it be for the one potted? Thanks.
It's quite easy Ken! I would say a pencil size branch from a donor tree would be ideal. Make sure the groove you make is deep enough so that the graft can sit just barely inside the cambium layer of your mature pine, wide enough so that the graft can fit quite tight inside (if you manage to have to use some force to insert it, that will be perfect) and I would say at least an inch long. Fasten it with double nails into place., deep enough so that they barely wound the graft and push it in. And lastly you will need patience. If your mature tree is vigorous and strong, you will get a successful graft within the season. But you can wait for another year just to be sure. I'm preparing to do some field grafting like that myself and I will start in mid April. Good luck!
@@ArkefthosBonsaiThank you. I see you pluck the needles off the green bark section of the donor tree, is that all that's needed for the graft to happen, or I need to wound the donor branch more to create contact patch? Thanks.
Wounding the graft is old school. I would not do it. If you do the technique right, having at least 2 points where there is 100% chance of success (the entry and the exit points) is inevitable. Wounding the scion just introduces dangers of it failing. So no wound but more patience is my technique.
When is the best time/season to do grafting?
If you mean approach grafting like I did in the video, whenever you find time. With in mind that pines thicken faster in late summer, I would prefer approach grafting just before that. But this kind of grafting takes time to complete and fuse together. Even up to 2 years. Now, for scion grafting there are two good seasons. Late winter - early spring and early autumn. For that, the most important are the conditions. You'll need to keep favourable conditions for at least 2 months for the grafts to fuse. Let me know if you need more information Karl, cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai thanks for your reply, I really appreciate the information above.
-Karl
Anytime!
i dont get that why graft on a 8 yr tree way down there?? seems to defeate the porpus
Steve, in a few months I will cut the tree above the graft and I will grow a hole bonsai from the grafted branch on the the 8 year old trunk, giving me a compact tree with a good trunk. Hope it is clear what it will become in summer. Cheers!
Nice video. Few quick questions would u have better sucess if u match them cambium to cambium and what if the branch is thicker do u want to put a bigger gash in the tree.? How does the tree accept the graft it just scars over it and its good? I want to do this to my pine but afraid if it doesnt take im going to have a big scar so i was thinking cambium to cambium would have better results? What do u think
When you say cambium to cambium, you mean normal veneer side scion graft? I'm guessing that is what you mean. So, side veneer graft has lower success rate. Less scaring but quite more difficult. Approach graft, if done right, has 100% success rate. Yes it scars more, but healing these scars until it becomes invisible is just a matter of time and patience. Yes, with bugger approach grafts you dig more into the trunk but they are going to have the same healing time. Bigger branches will swell and fuse faster. In pines the scar should not concern you that much, since they produce rough bark easy and fast and they will "mask" the wound. If done right, approach graft is safe, so I say go for it. Just have patience. Cheers Chris!
@@ArkefthosBonsai ok thanks alot. Yes in what i mean was skin the trunk to the cambium and skin the graft to the cambium and put them together so its raised off of the trunk. When i say large branch its prob about pinky thick. I just dont want to go too far down into the trunk but i guess ill try this method . The branch i am trying has alot of ramification on it and i dont want to cut any of it off. And its already part of the parent plant so its more like a whip just in the wrong spot. Thanks for the help
If you have time go and check my last Japanese black pine video. 4 weeks ago. During styling I made an approach graft like the one you mention (but smaller branch). It's at 7.22 of the video. This will probably help. Pinky thick branches are doable though. Try to get the grafted branch flush with the bark of the trunk to get an invisible scar sooner.
@@ArkefthosBonsai ok thanks soo much for the help!
@@ArkefthosBonsai sorry for all the questions im new to pines but how deep is the deepest u can go by doing this and how does the tree take to the graft does it just roll over the graft and then the graft is part of the tree?
Bagus sekali
Thank you mate!
Haven't seen anything from you for a while. My maple-thingy is still doing allright, but I can't get the birds to stop digging up my moss coverings. Any advice - anybody?
Nice to "see" you again. I have the exact same annoying problem. They damaged all the beautifuly applied moss on my trees. Plus, they attack the bark as well, which is unacceptable. I dealt with this by covering the soil and the pots with shade cloth. Helps with the heat as well, deals with birds and does not interfere with watering. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Ha - I've just decided to make a tiny scare crow out of some soldior toy. Won't help, but it will make me laugh, when I see it.. If it's only a single or two territotial birds, mabe booby traps with rubber bands could teach them a lesson.. B)
@@CONEHEADDK ha ha soon they will stop. Here July was annoying. Now they are slowing down. But shade cloth did stop them 100% with no victims in any side!
Good!
Thank you!
It will be interesting to see the result.
Not yet clear on the author's intent
Once the the branches fuse with the new trunk, all of the tree above the graft will be removed and I will create a bonsai tree from the grafted branches. Small but with a relatively powerful trunk. Cheers!
👍👍👍
Thank you!
Wow beautiful Bonsai
Thank you for good sharing 😊
Include LIKE 54 ,
I leave 3 presents 🎁
My friend, always Stay connected.
Have a nice day 😊
& Welcome to my channel ~~
Thank you, I appreciate it!
ive tried some of these things and they mangle trees i dont think its real this guy is just another usless bonsai tutorial
OK Steve. First, it is definatly not a tutorial. It's a diary format. Second, you failing in something doesn't make it wrong, or mangle, or useless, it is just your failure. Others, more experienced will succeed. Third, you are welcome to follow these trees as they become truly beautiful bonsai trees in the next years, starting from removing the top part of the 8 year old tree in June. Have fun mate!
A lot of people have success with this technique
It's definately a successful applied way of grafting, way older than all of us, combined. Thank you Justin!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Yep trees have been doing their own style of grafting or fusion quite successfully for a few years now 😁. We humans have been doing it successfully (most of the time) for a fair chunk of time too.
All good mate 👍
Very well said!