Theirs four things I feel compelled to mention on this video. 1) The rubber on the plug socket isn't for the porcelain. It's for when you install plugs on cars so it won't drop out of the socket. (Doesn't work very well but that's another rant.) 2) You don't need to replace the plug every year. (The one in the video looks fine and yours should look like that too.) Just take it out and check the gap and adjust if necessary. (Your Engine manufacturer will have the specs. . . . . GOOGLE THEM YOURSELF!) A plug should last many years but it never hurts to keep a spare around. Store it some place where it wont get knocked around because the porcelain is very fragile. 3) This is also a perfect time to sharpen your blade. While your under it this is also a great time to remove any dried lawn clippings that are stuck to the under sides of the deck. In fact this should be done once a month and especially before you put it away for the winter. The dried lawn clippings can hold moisture causing your deck to rust out. . . . . Maybe consider using this time to also take off the top plate/shroud thing so you can remove any lawn clippings that are stuck under that too. The engine shroud helps direct the air flow coming from the fan built into the flywheel for engine cooling so it's very important to keep that clear. 4) Many lawnmowers have a sponge type oil filter where you don't need to replace it every year. Just take it out so you can wash and dry it (Dawn works great) then re- oil it before use. I normally use some of the left over new oil from changing the engine oil. Just make sure to ring it out after applying. Remember before you buy. . . . . . Even a "cheap" $120 Briggs&Stratton lawn mower should last you a good decade or more if you take care of it and don't abuse it so don't listen to the salesman trying to sell you something more expensive if you have no intention of taking care of and respecting your purchase. Hope I've helped someone and happy mowing. Peace and love
I don't think you waste much buying a new spark plugs each year, your already gonna get oil and an air filter. Getting oil, an air filter it's pre filter and a spark plugs was 20 bucks for this season on Amazon with prime for my mower. Cheap maintenance and insurance every season. These were OEM parts too
I replace my spark plug yearly and even when it doesnt need replacing, run my mower dry of gas when winter starts, but always leave oil in it! Then when its spring, drain the oil, fill it up, replace the spark plug, air filter, and add fresh gas, and with a little encouragement, my 1989 lawnboy starts up and has been serving me for many years. And yes, cleaning the deck and making sure that you mower is stored in a DRY place is really important. Not only for the winter, but every time you are done cutting grass your mower should be put in a garage or shed. If you have neither of those. Put it on a pallet, and cover it with a tarp.
If your old oil is muddy and creamy looking, you probably have water mixed with the oil. Drain it immediately, then add new clean oil of the proper weight to prevent rust within your engine.
I would say that most oil fill and drain plugs are not on the bottom but are on the lower side of the engine. When you tip the mower on its side, to drain out the old oil, make sure you keep the drain plug on the lower end of the engine so as not to cause problems with incorrect draining into the carburetors. Tip the mower on the side that has the oil drain/fill on it.
I'm very surprised they didn't talk about sharpening and balancing the blades. That's a crucial part of the performance of any mower. That being said, if you can find a supplier that sells non-ethanol high octane gas, you should buy and use it. I have never drained or run my mowers dry but I do add and run a stabilizer through the mower. I use a product called Sea Foam. There is the gas additive and they also have a spray lubricant and both work extremely well. I've never had a problem with Spring startup and here in Vt, it's could be a good six months or longer between the last fall and first spring mowing. You should also change your oil about every 20 hours of use and sharpen the blade the same time. It's amazing how quick they can dull.
My last mower I had, I ran 50:1 2-cycle mix in it. I had a boss a long time ago that swore by it. He said it would smoke a little, but it kept it well lubricated. IT made it easier for me, same gas can for the mower, and for the string trimmer, and leaf blower. That mower lasted me over 20 years. I finally had to get rid of it because the deck was more patches than original deck material. The motor was about to drop out of the deck because most of the deck had rusted away. But it still ran great - started right up and ran strong. I am running straight gas in my new one. Not sure if I want to do that again.
Honestly they dont make stuff like they used to. An old mower some 30 years ago would have no problem having gas left in it every year. I feel like its such a pain keeping the new stuff working. Already on my 3rd and I did everything the user manual says like on this video.
I have a Craftsman mower with a Honda GCV-160 engine. I bought it in 2017. It sat at my sister-in-law's house for 3 years with the same gas in it and was never run the whole time. When my wife and I sold our condo and bought a house with a lawn, we got the mower back. It fired right up on the first pull without a tune-up or new gas. I mowed the grass with it about a dozen times before fall set in. Then it sat in the shed with the same gas in it all winter. I changed the oil, cleaned the air cleaner, and swapped the spark plug, and it still runs perfectly. My dad swears by Honda engines. Basically any tool he has that doesn't say Snap-On, it says Honda. He's got water pumps and air compressors with Honda engines on them that date to the 90s. He's a farmer so his small engines all get put through their paces. The engine on my mower is just so unfussy, unlike just about every Briggs engine I've ever touched. My in-laws are borrowing my mower right now because their Briggs mower refuses to start. It could be like you said. I personally avoid ethanol in all of my engines when I can. My mower has never had ethanol in it. My cars only get it if I'm running on vapors and the only gas station for miles only has E10. Plus, my cars seem to use more fuel when I run E10 in them.
Same suggestion goes for changing the air filter. I would take the old filter with me. That way I will make no mistake when it comes to buying the new filter.
I recall one episode where he's telling a home owner to rake the leaves onto a tarp and she says to him On top of what?? It was like a who's on first scene😂😂
I hate the lawnmowers that must be tipped to empty the oil. They never seem to drain fully. Every machine should have a drain plug on the bottom but I assume this feature adds to the cost of production.
@@jameskoralewski1006 I understand but I do feel a plug in the bottoms allows it to drain quicker and more thoroughly. It would seem to flush any debris out effectively versus drawing it up. Good point, though, and I wasn't aware of the pumps.
If your oil is that "muddy", Drain and replace it before running out the rest of your gas prior to winter storage. Then drain and replace it again just to make sure you've gotten all the crud out before putting it up for the winter.
odd question when cutting grass is it "beneficial" to let the mower run completely out of gas to put fresher gas in the tank? didn't know if that helped (or hurt) the performance of the mower.
I am not convinced that draining a tank dry is the way to go anymore for off season storage, long-term it does seem to damage seals/fuel hoses and if you have a newer snow blower/generator with a China built engine that has a metal fuel tank they can rust internally if left dry. I religiously use a quality fuel stabilizer like Star-Tron or Marine Stabil as soon as I buy my gas add it to the container when I get home. For off season storage I keep my tank full run the engine for a minute or two then shut off the fuel supply shut off switch (if your equipment has one) let the engine run out of gas and then store it. I am confident this method will prevent my fuel hoses/seals from drying out. Time will tell, so far so good.
I don't drain my gas tank dry. I top it off to full and fill it with a good fuel like True Fuel. This stuff does not contain alcohol, is 92 proof, and already contains a fuel stabilizer. I've never had any problems starting my engines after an idle winter season and do not waste any fuel, needlessly!
MrTBoneMalone There's a cone shaped balancer you can buy that you use while you sharpen the blade. Or you can make a string balance from a string and a washer. You have to make sure you don't unbalance the blade when you sharpen it or the wobble in the blade will eventually destroy your lawn mower.
Put a little dielectric grease on the porcelain part of the spark plug and a little in the spark plug boot but not on the electrical contacts within the boot. The plug boot will come off much easier if you do this trick before next season!
Correct replacement plug (NOT necessary in this case) involves much more than correct sizes of threaded part. Heat range must also be correct. Engine mfg. can provide info for particular engine. Else, just read the plug info on the insulator and get another, or cross-reference it. Parts-store counterman should be able to find just what you need. NGK is really on the upswing for quality small-engine plugs, OEM on Husqy/Dolmar saws for one thing. Oil should really be changed while hot. IMO
@@jameskoralewski1006 Not optimal IMO, since some mfgs are notably cheaping-out on their product quality. And, you'd really have to twist my arm to go for a "Torch." I'd suspect they only have one heat range. (j/k)
When reinstalling, go slow and make sure it is started straight and not crooked. Think of a light bulb, or better yet a garden hose. If you start the hose at an angle, you can force it to tighten, but you are crossing the threads. Meaning carving new threads into the metal which will ruin your fit
You don't replace spark plugs in your car every year. Right? Brush the carbons out and install again. Replace it only when the center electrode worn out.
You guys are missing the point! Lawnmower maintenance is one of life's many joys. You get to make a trip to the hardware store, you get to use some tools, your hands get dirty and at the end of it you can stand over your lawnmower, beer in hand, and stare at it for 10 minutes with the knowledge that your house is in order. That night, you make the sweetest love you've ever made while the smell of freshly cut grass wafts in through your open window.
I find the carburetors get gummed up because of fuel evaporation so i shut off the supply and let the engine run dry. also the engines only last two or three years so I replace the engine with an electric motor and battery and those last 5 to 10 years.
15 years using it and have done nothing to it. Have not changed plug, filter, oil, have not sharpen blade or lubricated any moving parts, always used very old gas, but still runs perfect, same as on day I got it. Starts after every winter on first pull.
the rubber in a spark plug socket has nothing to do about the porcelain... it's to grab the stem and help remove from larger car engines that can be DEEP inside a cylinder hear/valve cover.
If you don't use dielectric grease on the porcelain, the plug porcelain can become stuck to the rubber boot due to heat and can tear during removal. Try a little dielectric grease and your plug boots will never stick and will remove much easier.
One thing they did not mention... storing gas for that mower. Today's gas usually has at least 10% ethanol which absorbs water from the atmosphere. Add a treatment like "Sta-bil for Ethanol" when storing gas and you will cut down on some starting problems with all power equipment (and boat engines too). Water in the gas will make the engine hard to start and run rough.
Would recommend using ethanol free gas. In many towns this can be difficult or impossible to find at the pump, but most outdoor power tool centers will sell bottles of ethanol free gas that is stabilized for many years as well. Well worth the extra money.
Why run the mower out of gas? Just throw some Stabil in it and be done! Also you're really not going to put some anti-seize on that plug? Or fog the engine?
Sadly, the number of people that actually do any of the things in the video is rapidly decreasing... hence why I end up with a handful of mowers to resell every season!
I get safety. But has anyone ever had their lawn mower start without pulling the pull cord? I mean my lawn mower takes at least 3 pulls and a lot of swearing to start.
I have an electric lawn mower and there not one thing I will do what these guys did. I always reccomend people to buy an electric lawn mower, either one where you have a plug following or to charge and go....it's the 21st Century, isn't it great?😋😋
I've never seen a lawnmower without an oil drain plug on the bottom. If you tip it over like that you can easily fill the cylinder with old oil - a real mess
American-made mowers that I've owned through the years have been garbage. I've had better luck spending $50 for a used mower every year than wasting hours of my time "fiddling" with this fickle BS. I have a 4 bedroom home with a decent size yard. I've decades of auto-mechanic experience but I absolutely HATE small engines. Fickle throw-away machines. Such a waste.
Best accent ever 💪 "hard to get started".
Theirs four things I feel compelled to mention on this video.
1) The rubber on the plug socket isn't for the porcelain. It's for when you install plugs on cars so it won't drop out of the socket. (Doesn't work very well but that's another rant.)
2) You don't need to replace the plug every year. (The one in the video looks fine and yours should look like that too.) Just take it out and check the gap and adjust if necessary. (Your Engine manufacturer will have the specs. . . . . GOOGLE THEM YOURSELF!) A plug should last many years but it never hurts to keep a spare around. Store it some place where it wont get knocked around because the porcelain is very fragile.
3) This is also a perfect time to sharpen your blade. While your under it this is also a great time to remove any dried lawn clippings that are stuck to the under sides of the deck. In fact this should be done once a month and especially before you put it away for the winter. The dried lawn clippings can hold moisture causing your deck to rust out. . . . . Maybe consider using this time to also take off the top plate/shroud thing so you can remove any lawn clippings that are stuck under that too. The engine shroud helps direct the air flow coming from the fan built into the flywheel for engine cooling so it's very important to keep that clear.
4) Many lawnmowers have a sponge type oil filter where you don't need to replace it every year. Just take it out so you can wash and dry it (Dawn works great) then re- oil it before use. I normally use some of the left over new oil from changing the engine oil. Just make sure to ring it out after applying.
Remember before you buy. . . . . . Even a "cheap" $120 Briggs&Stratton lawn mower should last you a good decade or more if you take care of it and don't abuse it so don't listen to the salesman trying to sell you something more expensive if you have no intention of taking care of and respecting your purchase.
Hope I've helped someone and happy mowing.
Peace and love
@@solojohnson8623 Make me.
I don't think you waste much buying a new spark plugs each year, your already gonna get oil and an air filter. Getting oil, an air filter it's pre filter and a spark plugs was 20 bucks for this season on Amazon with prime for my mower. Cheap maintenance and insurance every season. These were OEM parts too
I replace my spark plug yearly and even when it doesnt need replacing, run my mower dry of gas when winter starts, but always leave oil in it! Then when its spring, drain the oil, fill it up, replace the spark plug, air filter, and add fresh gas, and with a little encouragement, my 1989 lawnboy starts up and has been serving me for many years. And yes, cleaning the deck and making sure that you mower is stored in a DRY place is really important. Not only for the winter, but every time you are done cutting grass your mower should be put in a garage or shed. If you have neither of those. Put it on a pallet, and cover it with a tarp.
If your old oil is muddy and creamy looking, you probably have water mixed with the oil. Drain it immediately, then add new clean oil of the proper weight to prevent rust within your engine.
Solid advice even 6 years later.
The drain plug will most likely be on the bottom of the mower deck, above the blades. Which you should also take off to “shop-en” in the spring
I would say that most oil fill and drain plugs are not on the bottom but are on the lower side of the engine. When you tip the mower on its side, to drain out the old oil, make sure you keep the drain plug on the lower end of the engine so as not to cause problems with incorrect draining into the carburetors. Tip the mower on the side that has the oil drain/fill on it.
I'm very surprised they didn't talk about sharpening and balancing the blades. That's a crucial part of the performance of any mower. That being said, if you can find a supplier that sells non-ethanol high octane gas, you should buy and use it. I have never drained or run my mowers dry but I do add and run a stabilizer through the mower. I use a product called Sea Foam. There is the gas additive and they also have a spray lubricant and both work extremely well. I've never had a problem with Spring startup and here in Vt, it's could be a good six months or longer between the last fall and first spring mowing. You should also change your oil about every 20 hours of use and sharpen the blade the same time. It's amazing how quick they can dull.
My last mower I had, I ran 50:1 2-cycle mix in it. I had a boss a long time ago that swore by it. He said it would smoke a little, but it kept it well lubricated. IT made it easier for me, same gas can for the mower, and for the string trimmer, and leaf blower. That mower lasted me over 20 years. I finally had to get rid of it because the deck was more patches than original deck material. The motor was about to drop out of the deck because most of the deck had rusted away. But it still ran great - started right up and ran strong. I am running straight gas in my new one. Not sure if I want to do that again.
Honestly they dont make stuff like they used to.
An old mower some 30 years ago would have no problem having gas left in it every year.
I feel like its such a pain keeping the new stuff working. Already on my 3rd and I did everything the user manual says like on this video.
@@bobshanery5152 I think a lot of the problem is the Ethanol. It plays havoc with small engines and even cars that get stored.
I have a Craftsman mower with a Honda GCV-160 engine. I bought it in 2017. It sat at my sister-in-law's house for 3 years with the same gas in it and was never run the whole time. When my wife and I sold our condo and bought a house with a lawn, we got the mower back. It fired right up on the first pull without a tune-up or new gas. I mowed the grass with it about a dozen times before fall set in. Then it sat in the shed with the same gas in it all winter. I changed the oil, cleaned the air cleaner, and swapped the spark plug, and it still runs perfectly.
My dad swears by Honda engines. Basically any tool he has that doesn't say Snap-On, it says Honda. He's got water pumps and air compressors with Honda engines on them that date to the 90s. He's a farmer so his small engines all get put through their paces. The engine on my mower is just so unfussy, unlike just about every Briggs engine I've ever touched. My in-laws are borrowing my mower right now because their Briggs mower refuses to start.
It could be like you said. I personally avoid ethanol in all of my engines when I can. My mower has never had ethanol in it. My cars only get it if I'm running on vapors and the only gas station for miles only has E10. Plus, my cars seem to use more fuel when I run E10 in them.
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP MAN!
Same suggestion goes for changing the air filter. I would take the old filter with me. That way I will make no mistake when it comes to buying the new filter.
sometimes their hod to get stotted!
Where did it stot?
😂😂😂😂
B4 we stawt Kevin- we’re gunna disengage the spak plug.
I recall one episode where he's telling a home owner to rake the leaves onto a tarp and she says to him On top of what?? It was like a who's on first scene😂😂
I hate the lawnmowers that must be tipped to empty the oil. They never seem to drain fully. Every machine should have a drain plug on the bottom but I assume this feature adds to the cost of production.
You can usually pull the cord slowly a few times to cycle the motor and get more oil out.
@@panamediallc4454 thanks for that tip!
They also sell oil drain/fill manual pumps that work quite well at getting rid of all the old oil without tipping the mower at all.
@@jameskoralewski1006 I understand but I do feel a plug in the bottoms allows it to drain quicker and more thoroughly. It would seem to flush any debris out effectively versus drawing it up. Good point, though, and I wasn't aware of the pumps.
@@jameskoralewski1006 Agreed. I used a siphon, and it worked great.
I actually just did these things today. I also sharpened the blade.
How do I clean the fuel tank of my PUSH lawn mower? How often?
Always helpful Boys :)
If your oil is that "muddy", Drain and replace it before running out the rest of your gas prior to winter storage. Then drain and replace it again just to make sure you've gotten all the crud out before putting it up for the winter.
odd question when cutting grass is it "beneficial" to let the mower run completely out of gas to put fresher gas in the tank? didn't know if that helped (or hurt) the performance of the mower.
I am not convinced that draining a tank dry is the way to go anymore for off season storage, long-term it does seem to damage seals/fuel hoses and if you have a newer snow blower/generator with a China built engine that has a metal fuel tank they can rust internally if left dry. I religiously use a quality fuel stabilizer like Star-Tron or Marine Stabil as soon as I buy my gas add it to the container when I get home. For off season storage I keep my tank full run the engine for a minute or two then shut off the fuel supply shut off switch (if your equipment has one) let the engine run out of gas and then store it. I am confident this method will prevent my fuel hoses/seals from drying out. Time will tell, so far so good.
I don't drain my gas tank dry. I top it off to full and fill it with a good fuel like True Fuel. This stuff does not contain alcohol, is 92 proof, and already contains a fuel stabilizer. I've never had any problems starting my engines after an idle winter season and do not waste any fuel, needlessly!
sharpen & balance the blade
So how would you balance the blade?
MrTBoneMalone
There's a cone shaped balancer you can buy that you use while you sharpen the blade. Or you can make a string balance from a string and a washer. You have to make sure you don't unbalance the blade when you sharpen it or the wobble in the blade will eventually destroy your lawn mower.
you can use smooth nail or pin to hang it on
the heavy side be lower grind off that side
MrTBoneMalone I prefer to balance it on a marble, but that's just me.
Ryan Holmes You are talking about your lawnmower blade, right?
Everything but the "dirty" spark plugs need replacing bit was accurate information.
The air filter looked fine, too. xD
If you are going to replace your plugs, make sure you gap them before replacing them.
Put a little dielectric grease on the porcelain part of the spark plug and a little in the spark plug boot but not on the electrical contacts within the boot. The plug boot will come off much easier if you do this trick before next season!
Another good tip for end of season once you run it dry remove the spark plug and poor a cap full of oil down the cylinder
What about checking the gap on the spark plug?
Good point- this should always be done first.
I don’t do any of these things and my lawnmower has lasted 9 years
Yeah I'll be honest I thought about changing the oil for the first time in 6 years this coming spring. Everything else is fine.
You want to let the oil settle for 5 to 10 min. before you check also that air filter can be cleaned just fine and you could clean that spark plug
Most mower air filters and spark plugs are not recommended to be cleaned. They are both relatively cheap and should be replaced.
That spark plugs looked just fine.
The only oil I use is Crisp'n'Dry and it works a treat wouldn't use any other oil in my mowers
I use a turkey baster to remove the oil in my lawn mower.
This is a bad idea. You won't be getting much of the old oil out using a turkey baster. Get a manual pump instead from Lowes.
Great video 👍👍 how often should I change my air filter
Check your owner's manual but I change mine once a year unless you are mowing in extremely dusty locations.
would it hurt if you changed the oil in the fall? vs spring?
Correct replacement plug (NOT necessary in this case) involves much more than correct sizes of threaded part. Heat range must also be correct. Engine mfg. can provide info for particular engine. Else, just read the plug info on the insulator and get another, or cross-reference it. Parts-store counterman should be able to find just what you need. NGK is really on the upswing for quality small-engine plugs, OEM on Husqy/Dolmar saws for one thing. Oil should really be changed while hot. IMO
Just buy the replacement plug from the same manufacturer as the original plug using the numbers on the plug or reference your owner's manual.
@@jameskoralewski1006 Not optimal IMO, since some mfgs are notably cheaping-out on their product quality. And, you'd really have to twist my arm to go for a "Torch." I'd suspect they only have one heat range. (j/k)
Helpful! didn't know something's
I will, thanks
What does “don’t cross the threads” mean at the end?
When reinstalling, go slow and make sure it is started straight and not crooked. Think of a light bulb, or better yet a garden hose. If you start the hose at an angle, you can force it to tighten, but you are crossing the threads. Meaning carving new threads into the metal which will ruin your fit
adjust the kanooter valve.
You don't replace spark plugs in your car every year. Right? Brush the carbons out and install again. Replace it only when the center electrode worn out.
Plugs are a lot cheaper than putting up with a poorly running engine due to poorly performing plugs!
Good stuff
Spock plug⚡️
Do we use SAE-30W oil for every lawnmower
No! Check your owner's manual. Usually, the oil weight to be used depends on the temps that the mower will be cutting the grass.
Make sure all your bolts are tight not loose
Good tips, but changing the spark plug every year, no thank you, I'll keep using the one that has lasted 10 years already
What about using an ethanol free gas instead of normal car gas?
Always better to use ethanol-free gas if you can.
I never use any gas with ethanol in any of my lawn equipment!
I hate when my mower is hod to stot
Twister I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
this sounds scripted but yet flow so smoothly. well done
Ha! I haven't needed to change the spark plug on my mower in 11 years.
Neon Limitless
I had a lawn mower in storage for years and I didn't have to do any of this stuff! LOL!
You guys are missing the point! Lawnmower maintenance is one of life's many joys. You get to make a trip to the hardware store, you get to use some tools, your hands get dirty and at the end of it you can stand over your lawnmower, beer in hand, and stare at it for 10 minutes with the knowledge that your house is in order. That night, you make the sweetest love you've ever made while the smell of freshly cut grass wafts in through your open window.
Rr to
I find the carburetors get gummed up because of fuel evaporation so i shut off the supply and let the engine run dry. also the engines only last two or three years so I replace the engine with an electric motor and battery and those last 5 to 10 years.
I have a mower from the 80's and it runs fine
vacuum the oil out the tube
marine boat maintenence
shounds good nice video
GAP the plug also.....
Make sure you change your perfectly coffee brown spark plug every year after 50 hours of run time.
15 years using it and have done nothing to it. Have not changed plug, filter, oil, have not sharpen blade or lubricated any moving parts, always used very old gas, but still runs perfect, same as on day I got it. Starts after every winter on first pull.
That's cause your husband does it for you.
What mower you got?
You must have a magic mower you probably never had to put gas in it either!
@@danieleljoundi6364😂
Remove blade and sharpen it before you refill the oil it’s easier.
And store it in a dry place, not a damp basement or shed.
Umm how about blade sharpening? What about cleaning the old plug? Derp
the rubber in a spark plug socket has nothing to do about the porcelain... it's to grab the stem and help remove from larger car engines that can be DEEP inside a cylinder hear/valve cover.
If you don't use dielectric grease on the porcelain, the plug porcelain can become stuck to the rubber boot due to heat and can tear during removal. Try a little dielectric grease and your plug boots will never stick and will remove much easier.
I don’t even change oil and they want me to replace spark plugs???
Staaaated
I mow and do zero maintainence unless a wheel falls off.
There's battery maintenance to perform on electric mowers.
One thing they did not mention... storing gas for that mower. Today's gas usually has at least 10% ethanol which absorbs water from the atmosphere. Add a treatment like "Sta-bil for Ethanol" when storing gas and you will cut down on some starting problems with all power equipment (and boat engines too). Water in the gas will make the engine hard to start and run rough.
Would recommend using ethanol free gas. In many towns this can be difficult or impossible to find at the pump, but most outdoor power tool centers will sell bottles of ethanol free gas that is stabilized for many years as well. Well worth the extra money.
Why run the mower out of gas? Just throw some Stabil in it and be done! Also you're really not going to put some anti-seize on that plug? Or fog the engine?
Lawn mower that's starts on its own? I'll buy it....( Removing spark plug) What's next " lock out tag out" by OSHA 🤣🤣🤣
Run the mower for about 10or15 minutes befor draining the oil.
Thank god I have an electric lawnmower and don't have to deal with any of this.
Ethanol not good for small engine
Never seen a push mower that didn't drain from the bottom.
Thats dangerous the plug being that close can still spark and start the mower with your hands on the blade
I miss Roger on ATOH. 😥
Marcus I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
That air filter was good to go...
Spark plug seldom needs changing.
lol tilting the lawnmower to empty oil.. theres a drain plug under where the blade is.. come on old house
There are far too many a's and not enough r's in this clip.
It's New England.
weedram Are you serious? They aren't in Japan? :-)
You maintain it by getting an electric one👍
Joe I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
@@flat-earther🤡
Sadly, the number of people that actually do any of the things in the video is rapidly decreasing... hence why I end up with a handful of mowers to resell every season!
I get safety. But has anyone ever had their lawn mower start without pulling the pull cord? I mean my lawn mower takes at least 3 pulls and a lot of swearing to start.
Get a mower with a Honda engine. Starts with just one pull every time.
I have an electric lawn mower and there not one thing I will do what these guys did. I always reccomend people to buy an electric lawn mower, either one where you have a plug following or to charge and go....it's the 21st Century, isn't it great?😋😋
Wait until your $250 lithium battery goes bad and you have to buy a new one to continue cutting grass.
Why does a self propelled lawn mower shock me?
Somehow, your spark plug or ignition must be grounded to chassis ground.
Eye, James I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
yep and not 1 mention after doing and checking all that work about sharpening the blade or replacing the drive belt,,,epic fail
That is a waste of money you do not need to replace the spark plugs every year to replace it every 5 to 10 years
I never change mine and it runs just fine.
I put my oil in the garbage using a milk jar
Is that the proper way to recycle oil? The environmentalists are probably pissed at you!
Haahd to staaht
Did you change the spock plugg?
The air filter looked fine what a waste of time
I've never seen a lawnmower without an oil drain plug on the bottom. If you tip it over like that you can easily fill the cylinder with old oil - a real mess
American-made mowers that I've owned through the years have been garbage. I've had better luck spending $50 for a used mower every year than wasting hours of my time "fiddling" with this fickle BS. I have a 4 bedroom home with a decent size yard. I've decades of auto-mechanic experience but I absolutely HATE small engines. Fickle throw-away machines. Such a waste.
That accent is horrible. Thumbs down.
I love it.
Dont fuggett to change the spock plugg!