Have 4 sedans of crown Vics and Mercs. Thanks to you, I now know how to make a simple heater hose replacement without taking intake manifold off. A sample of Ford over engineering, and how to bypass it. I just realized why my mechanic said my heater hoses were just fine. God love him. I'd said that too if I had known what BS to go through by the book way. You,a smart fellow.
I just replaced the heater hose on a 1993 Grand Marquis after watching your video. Man, did you save me some time! I needed my car running in a hurry and you made it possible. I still have to wonder what Ford was thinking when they designed it like they did. I can't thank you enough for posting this!
Thank a bunch!! I did this without the fitting. I connected the hose directly to the water pump connection and used the hose clamp. Then ran the hose thru the intake, by the second spark plug. There are some holes where you can route the hose. Then used the hose clamp on the other side. Worked really good and really easy!!!! Thank you sir.. on to the a/c now.. CHEERS from Dallas, TX!!
Thank you for your video! I love my Grand Marquis! I'll do whatever I have to to keep her going! I do my repairs myself lol this helps... 244468 miles and still my baby 😉 She's a 1998
Thank you for giving me the courage to take this to my mechanic and say "DO THIS" instead of removing the intake manifold. However, I have the E150 van with total access to the back of the engine. My mechanic pulled the old bypass tube out, and ran the new heater hose under the intake and accomplished the same thing and I doesn't even show. THANK you!!
Had the same problem w/ 2000 Expedition XLT. I did not have as much room under the intake, there was some sort of insulation barrier under it. I used a heater hose w/ a preformed 90 elbow (Gates 28467), worked great. There was also an additional 1/4 inch hose from the old metal pipe to the front crossover. I tapped the 1/4 inch hose into the new 5/8 inch heater hose. Worked great.
Tackled this job on my 2004 f250 super duty 5.4. The 90 degrees didn’t fit in my V valley so I hacksawed the nipple coming off of the water pump leaving enough meat to catch my tube and hose clamp. Then from the back of the motor I fed a long piece of wire, I prolly had about a 6 foot roll, along old hose through the v. Went to the top and got that wire and laced it through a stretch of 5/8” tubing. Then went back down and pulled wire and tubing through. Then I did all connections needed. I also needed a tee. 1/4” hose from throttle area to heater hose.
I did this heater hose fix on my 1996 Mercury Grand Marquis and also the additional ground cable off the bolt on the alternator, the fix was easy. Thnaks!
Thank you so much for this. I live in my car and I dont have the money for an intake manifold to be taken off. Lol. I barely have 60$ for a Ford hose. The construction job I do requires this car. I was beginning to panic after seeing repair pal estimates suggesting I may need a new intake or at least to remove it to replace the hose. So I began to pray. And as soon as I hit youtube here you are working on the exact same car I have. Not only that, but you also explained how to fix the electrical problems I was starting to have. Lol. I already replaced the heater core at 126k miles. I knew the damn thing should have lasted longer than that. Id never heard of electrolysis. I want you to know sir, that God worked all this out in your life to save me. He used your video to save me. When i was afraid of losing shelter in this horrid cold. God bless you sir. May the Lord Jesus Christ who sends salvation every time to those who call His name bless you.
Thanks , it worked great. I have 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis. Very hard to get hose on at water pump but it worked and fixed the problem. One note : I needed 3/4" to 5/8" straight adapter and 2 more clamps because hose was 5/8 from water pump and 3/4 at heater core. Id suggest others use short piece of 5/8 from water pump to elbow, (buy elbow thats a 3/4 to 5/8,) 3/4" hose from elbow to heater core. What I did was leave old piece of 3/4 a couple inches out from heater core side, use 3/4 to 5/8 adapter, 5/8 hose to elbow, short piece of 5/8 from elbow to water pump.
You saved the day for me. My 96 Mercury Grand Marq blew the hose under the intake. repaired it like you have done here. However, my heater core also had a 3/4" outlet. I used a step down fitting 3/4" to 5/8" about a foot out into the engine bay. Works great. Thanks for the video.
thanks for the video, good repair to get going. This is a comment for viewers, in particular E series owners. I was fortunately able to get the pipe out an E150 van working from the back of motor and giving the pipe a 180 degree twist upon first tube restriction. It was nice to have the van's open rear access.
Thanks for posting this, it's helpful & timely!! My under intake hose took a crap on me. & your fix is perfect! I'm going to go see how good of a (back yard ) mechanic that I am. Wish me luck.
I love shade tree solutions. Why ford though it was a good idea to put a heater hose under the intake like that is beyond understanding. Thanks for the video.
I just finished bypassing the tube and now I'm leak free. :) I never was able to see the leak, even with the alt off, it was too far in the back of the engine. I need to relocate my climate control temp sensor, but that can wait till winter. Thanks for the video, it was the only one I could find, so big thumbs up brother.
It's funny how a video that helped you years ago pops up in your recommended. I did this repair on my 1994 Crown Vic. I junked that car and removed this setup, put it in my storage house, and bought a Lincoln Town Car. The same problem showed up, I took the pipe setup and put it on that car. I gave that car to my dad years later now it is at 380k with the same cheap repair.
Hey buddy thanks for the tip, I was about to take the whole intake manifold out when I happened to step on your video clip and !WAMOW! what a great idea to run the heater hose that way, saves a lot of headaches, thanks again.
Thanks. I think I'll try that line first. A local guy at the parts store that's done some of these felt strongly that it was the intake leaking and running down that hose. Maybe I can remove some things and check it with my hand or a small mirror on a wire or something. Thanks, and wow your ideas about bypassing the hose and alternator grounding are amazing!
Nice Job! I had same problem and performed this fix this afternoon. Coolant hose was really rotted as you showed in video. Only problem now, is electric cooling fan runs when coolant warms up. I'll pull and check thermostat tomorrow, since it could be a problem since my leak was there for q good while. Thanks for a great video and fix!!~
Thank you so much for this video! I have a '96 Grand Marquis and the 5/8 hose behind the water pump, cracked about an eighth of an inch in front the metal collar of the pipe. I did the repair as shown, and it's working great! Thanks for saving me a ton of money and time!.... What was Ford thinking about with that design?
For years I drove around with everything to change over from a Non PI to a PI intake including the PI coolant tube. The plastic coolant bypass on my Non PI intake cracked all the way from one side to the other the other day. Now it finally payed off to carry "junk in my trunk" all these years. I think I will take the old coolant tube out and put in the 4 feet of 5/8 hose like you did.
Great video of how to fix a driver and bypass the Ford engineers. Fixed my heater core even worse than the one in the video. I just cut both hoses to the heater core and connected them to each other. We don’t need no stinkin heater in Miami!
Awesome video, cost me $24.85 for parts and about 2hrs and 45 minutes to complete. Looks factory and an easy future fix if needed. Thanks for a great idea.
saw you like the video re running hose for 4.6 engine a different way then under manifold. trying to fix moms leak grand marquis. i know it leaks under car in rear area quite a bit under firewall area. i was thinking it was manifold. now i am wondering. can you advise how i would know its leaking hose under manifold without removing manifold are re running hose as the guy did in the video? did you do th
Hell yeah good idea..i was wonder why they put those that way,could not figure out wjere coolant was going till I did a pressure check and a pin hole in that hose.you saved me a lot of work,I owe ya a beer!\../rock on
This worked great!! I had to go under the right side of the alternator but otherwise it was spot on. Someone buy this guy a beer or two! Cost about $17. Thanks.
Clarification on other message: I believe that metal coolant line that runs under the manifold has a 90 degree bend that goes up to a fitting for the right heater hose and that its leaking at the 90 degree bend. Its also possible that the leak is from somewhere else and just appears to leak there. I figure it might be worth the risk to cut the line and rerun it like you did. Any thoughts?
Thank you very much for being honest! I've looked at other videos (about two weeks ago) and they showed that the heater hose connects to the right side heater core outlets and not the left side that you mention. Just today (10/10/2021). When I was about to connect the hose to the heater core outlet on the right side, I noticed that the outlet was bigger than the 5/8 hose that I connected on the other end and the left side looked like the right side my 5/8 hose would fit. Just to be sure I went to various websites including AllData. I finally came across your video. Now I know exactly where to go with the hose!!!...................ps.Before I worked on my car today, I've already slid the hose down through a hose in the middle of the intake manifold (5/8 hose). Slide it down with your left hand, Put your right hand under the manifold from the front, feel for the hose and easily pull it towards the front. Thank you for the confirmation.
Ive done this before on my 95 Crown Vic, but i replaced the entire by pass hose and yes you have take off the intake manifold off, it was a bi*tch and time consuming, i had to replace the intake manifold gaskes as well, been running great ever since, 👍😉
I've read most of the comments. Those that question the conversion in the video, just do it because tube on mine leaked in different places on all three repairs. The Triton engine is set so far back with so many hidden hoses, that it is actually better to follow the video exactly as recommended. You have easy access, eliminates the buried original hose with the entire operation making much more mechanical sense in design over factory design. You can make a clean transition at the firewall with a 5/8-3/4 reducer. Clean, professional and the only way to fix the forever leak problem.
Thank you so much for the info man, really worked out great. i have a 4.6 v8 1992 crown vic and it worked wonderfully. I just couldn't figure out the problem with the leaking i was having i replaced the water pump, thermostat and still no change. Saw this and worked like a dream. i was afraid to have gone through the top. i don't like taking her apart she is old lol.
1st off I want to tell you thanks for posting this video! There is a way to take the hose off without taking the valve cover off. The tool that's needed is a: "11 inch long needle nose pliers". You probably can get it at any parts store around 10 dollars! I hope that this helps you are anyone else. The only problem that I ran into is the heater core ports on my 98 grand marquis LS 4.6 eng. are 3/4 but the outter port on the block (closer to heater core housing) is smaller mines is 5/8. But all the sizes that I listed may be different on other year makes & models! 👍🏽
hi trying to fix moms leak grand marquis. i know it leaks under car in rear area quite a bit under firewall area. i was thinking it was manifold. now i am wondering. can you advise how i would know its leaking hose under manifold without removing manifold are re running hose as the guy did in the video? did you do the job yet? how did you know where the leak was? i don't have a camera that i can run back in that area for a search. any troubleshooting ideas is thankful.
@@scottwatkins39 you're going to have to follow the hose from the heater core to manifold & check to see if it's leaking at the clamp that connects the hose to the manifold. I knew it was leaking when I used a high powered light to see clearly "firewall area"
hi jason. saw you like the video re running hose for 4.6 engine a different way then under manifold. trying to fix moms leak grand marquis. i know it leaks under car in rear area quite a bit under firewall area. i was thinking it was manifold. now i am wondering. can you advise how i would know its leaking hose under manifold without removing manifold are re running hose as the guy did in the video? did you do the job yet? how did you know where the leak was? i don't have a camera that i can run back in that area for a search. any troubleshooting ideas is thankful.
I glad caught the video, I've torn my dad's top end apart to find that pipe to be leaking, it's 97 f150, after everyone else told him it was a head gasket blown??!!! Question is I purchased repair tube/part DORMAN 626221 AND NOTICED IT DOESN'T FIT AS FLUSH TO THE BACK OF THE WATER PUMP. AS I WOULD LIKE OR IS IT DESIGNED THIS WAY.?? DIDN'T WANT RO CLOSE IT WATER PRESSURE PUSH THROUGH IT??? THANKS FOR TBE INFORMATION
I have a 2010 ford f150 same thing my heater hose busted from rust, I was having so much trouble with the manifold due to rust, and I wasn't looking forward to the metal hose! You saved me time and money will.update when foxes
It will go under the intake very easy. I just did mine and it took thirty minutes and all I took off was the alternator. But yes it will. Just drop it in from the back and you can actually reach under the intake and get it and pull it through. No 90 Degree elbows or anything. Just six feet of 5/8 hose and thirty minutes labor. Just thought this may be helpful.
Hey man, thanks a million for this vid! I havent had this problem yet, but I do have a 5.4 engine that I drive almost everyday. If I ever need to change that hose, or have a problem with my charging system, I will remember this vid.
Good Fix I did it to my 2000 f150 and works great. Mine had a metal pipe that I cut and then removed the pipe on the water pump end and installed the parts as shown. Thank You for this video.
I little tip. I did the bypass like shown but it still leaked under the intake somewhere. After investigating more, nothing looked corroded. It seems the factory plastic fitting that slides onto the metal nipple under the alternator had rubbed a hole right through the metal. It was on the bottom, which is hard to see. I had to use a small mirror and flashlight to see it. The fix was simply sliding the new hose section and clamp closer to the front, clamping over the hole. I hope that helps so
Thank you, mine just went tonight & I really didn't feel like pulling the intake. I think I will use a brass 90* but we will see. Thanks again-Subscribed.
You can eliminate that plastic connector by using a heater hose with a formed 90 degree bend. Most parts stores sell them. A little more expensive than straight heater hose, but eliminates two potential leak points.
thank you so much for this awesome bypass tequinique.....so happy i found this ingineuitive shop trick....but does this bypass effect the hearter from generating hot air for the heater?
@@markallen5901 No, the only thing you are really doing is "rerouting" the hose, it's not really a bypass because you're not actually bypassing anything. The original setup is just a metal pipe running under the manifold. The new setup is just a flexible hose running over the manifold. The coolant fluid is heated inside the engine and then pumped through the heater core by either routing. Kind of a, 'six in one-half dozen in the other' situation. I like it a lot...
I saw a guy fighting with that issue back in 2015 that lives three houses down from me. It was on a 2000 expedition 4.6. I never knew the outcome of his nightmare because he is the anti social distant type. But your video is worth a good 100 dollars to me to know how I can fix that if it ever happens on my 02 supcrew f150. I keep parts stocked at my house such as coils and wiring and lots of stuff and I am going to add one of those gates 90% elbows to my stock. Ill just ebay it rather than rummage through auto zone
Wow this is a Great Video. I have a 99 F150 5.4. This dam transfer tube just popped on mine. The only difference is mine is a Metal Pipe. I'm hoping I can figure something out the way you did. It may not work on mine since Mine is Metal, if not I'll be removing the Intake for the 1st time. I fix a lot of things on my vehicles but I've never taken on a job like this before. One of the Best things I learned from this video is The Grounding! I've been having Big BIG Problems with the Antifreeze in my Truck Rusting up so Fast. I've Flushed it, & Flushed Over & Over & it continues to Rust, so much so this Pipe Rusted through & Busted. I'm getting a New Ground Cable ASAP, I Never would of thought about Electrolysis. Thanks SO Much for the Video!!!!
thank you a lot for shared this video. Today was with mechanic and told me that cost $680 include change the thermostat too. well I am going to fix it by my self and save my money. God bless you!!
Great technique; creative solution. Who would pull the intake manifold if you can do what this video shows? Summary of routes: 0: Expensive metal tube under manifold as supplied by factory. 1: As this video shows, extra 90 degree elbow just behind water pump. 2. No elbow, hose exits between manifold and head behind second cylinder. 3. Hose under manifold, exits at rear.
hi got a 96 town car. i beleive the manifold was replaced engine has 160k on it. i dont like surprises so i will ask my mechanic to reroute hose. tnx for great tip.
Thanks for the awesome video cuz i just bought a.20p05 f150 today only to have it run hot twice on the way home i actually pulled it over to check the coolant levek bone dry. Not once but twice i was kinda stumped on where it was going only to notice the smoke from the coolant rising on passenger rear of the engine. So long story short im gonna. Pull the alternater off and buy 4 ftt of 5/8s hose and.a 90 degree fitting and 4 clamps and try to do exactly as you did im hoping i shut her off before head damage if not then i have 2000 lincoln t.car with the same engine that will provide me with a donor motor only difference is the lincoln has a plastic intake this truck has a aluminum intake. And the lincoln is kinda not fixable anyways because my lil sister lost the key to it so she busted the ignitiion out to move it when i left to live in florida. After wards she got me a new steering column i installed it and guess what it still wont run so i got a purpose for it now.anyways thanks for the video dude wish me luck
Hi, I discovered a leak on that manifold cross over at the part where heater core hose goes up and back. It appears to be at the connection where that manifold bolts down. Is that a common problem and is that exactly what you are working on here?
Thank you for the simple awesome answer I was looking for I hope you don't mind I'm going to post this on RUclips and use your idea please tell me if you have a issue with that
hi would you tell me how long and thick was the hose ! also where did you bough it , you did a great job on the video , you are wonderfull ! okay man take care keep making videos
There is a second hose that goes underneath the intake that is impossible to get to without taking the manifold off. No way to tell if the other hose is leaking. The step down on this video where the hose your replacing goes to may be needed. The 5/8ths inch hose that is being replaced is too small for the hook into the heater core. I was able to cut the hose and jam it on but it was difficult. The metal crimp ring was a pain to get off. You will need pry tools. This job took me about 2 and a half hours. If you dont have small skinny hands it may not be possible. I have small skinny hands and mine are cut up bad all over. I had to take my rings off to get in there at all. But doing this did significantly reduce the leaking of coolant from this car.
Did this job on my 1995 Ford Crown Vic. My local napa store had a piece of 90 degree molded hose, so I didn't have to use the right angle connector. The part number is NBH 9808.
Good tip, I wonder why the Ford co. could not think of that. Thanks, I have two of those engines and was just thinking of the day when I would have to remove the intake just to replace that set-up.
so when you cut the old heater cord, did you simply pull the access cord out from under the intake or did you leave it under there since you said there are lil clamps holding the cord in?? i have a 93 grand marquis and my intake hose bust, and im strongly considering going about it your way.... please respond thanks (GREAT VIDEO real money saver)
Great video man. Do u know if this repair will work for a 1992 grand marquis.? My mechanic says the pipe under the manifold is rotted out and coolant leaks right out. Looking for a quick fix.
a 4.6 is a 4.6 , they are all made the same , only thing they did any different , was where the small piece of hose connects to the pipe , the one I cut loose under the alternator , some had a crimp on them , some a actual clamp , the crimp ones take a little prying to tear them off , but it comes off ...
I've never had that problem, the best silicone spray I've used is the CRC stuff, the when I use it on vacuum lines and plugs it does take a while to dry so the hose doesn't pull off easily, after a day though there hard to get back off again!
it just takes some common sense , a bit of time , and patience , and you will have it fixed right up , it's not easy easy , but it's not hard to pull it off in 30 min ...
Ok. Thank you. I definitely saw a rubber hose with a clamp at the water pump connection. I'm wondering where the pipe travels as it heads to the back of the engine toward the firewall
omg i am so happy i saw this video! I just did the two quick disconnect hoses thinking i solved the leak. the truck overheated AGAIN! the guy just called me and told me I would have to remove the intake to do the job! going to drive it home and do it myself:) Because you cannot see it makes it appear to be a part of the intake, which it is not. for anyone interested, the quick disconnects had to be cut on my truck 326k. I only was lucky enough to get one off in the back be using conventional method. The special tool for this did not work for me.
As a side note, I couldn't find a brass barbed 90* elbow in 5/8, but I did find one in 3/4 at Home Depot. It was a SharkBite product and fit into the 5/8 heater hose nice and snug, no problem.
Yeah that's a good idea I have a 98 Ford Expedition with a 5.4 L the heater hose worth metal part goes it's already been bypassed you know somebody done by past it but it broke off where it comes through the firewall what do you suggest
the other thing you could do to make this repair a little bit cleaner is to buy a preformed 5/8 heater hose that has 1 90 degree end on it, you can get them at most auto parts stores and they come in different lengths. thanks for posting.
+Pat V they actually make to gradual of a 90 bend and will rub through if you left it in there , and as for cost , they actually cost a bit more , less than a buck , but if you factor the clamps they are cheaper , they just don't fit in the tiny area as well ... the best way to fix it is actually intake removal , plugging the block , and drilling and tapping in a new port not under the intake , I have done that on a few I have owned personally during the plastic intake swap , only issue there is where you have to drill the block , if your off by 1/8 inch you just destroyed your engine drilling into a pressurized oil galley , why I have never shared that fix ...
Have 4 sedans of crown Vics and Mercs. Thanks to you, I now know how to make a simple heater hose replacement without taking intake manifold off. A sample of Ford over engineering, and how to bypass it. I just realized why my mechanic said my heater hoses were just fine. God love him. I'd said that too if I had known what BS to go through by the book way. You,a smart fellow.
I just replaced the heater hose on a 1993 Grand Marquis after watching your video. Man, did you save me some time! I needed my car running in a hurry and you made it possible. I still have to wonder what Ford was thinking when they designed it like they did. I can't thank you enough for posting this!
8 years this video been up and now going to replace the hose this way thanks easy fix
Thank a bunch!! I did this without the fitting. I connected the hose directly to the water pump connection and used the hose clamp. Then ran the hose thru the intake, by the second spark plug. There are some holes where you can route the hose. Then used the hose clamp on the other side. Worked really good and really easy!!!! Thank you sir.. on to the a/c now.. CHEERS from Dallas, TX!!
That is genius...thanks for passing this idea along.
Thank you for your video! I love my Grand Marquis! I'll do whatever I have to to keep her going! I do my repairs myself lol this helps... 244468 miles and still my baby 😉 She's a 1998
Thank you for giving me the courage to take this to my mechanic and say "DO THIS" instead of removing the intake manifold. However, I have the E150 van with total access to the back of the engine. My mechanic pulled the old bypass tube out, and ran the new heater hose under the intake and accomplished the same thing and I doesn't even show. THANK you!!
My 01 E150 has a metal tube that runs all the way to the front, no hose. Did your mechanic have to do anything differently?
@@Gotdurt mine was metal too-but it rusted and started leaking.
Had the same problem w/ 2000 Expedition XLT. I did not have as much room under the intake, there was some sort of insulation barrier under it. I used a heater hose w/ a preformed 90 elbow (Gates 28467), worked great. There was also an additional 1/4 inch hose from the old metal pipe to the front crossover. I tapped the 1/4 inch hose into the new 5/8 inch heater hose. Worked great.
Tackled this job on my 2004 f250 super duty 5.4.
The 90 degrees didn’t fit in my V valley so I hacksawed the nipple coming off of the water pump leaving enough meat to catch my tube and hose clamp. Then from the back of the motor I fed a long piece of wire, I prolly had about a 6 foot roll, along old hose through the v. Went to the top and got that wire and laced it through a stretch of 5/8” tubing. Then went back down and pulled wire and tubing through. Then I did all connections needed. I also needed a tee. 1/4” hose from throttle area to heater hose.
I did this heater hose fix on my 1996 Mercury Grand Marquis and also the additional ground cable off the bolt on the alternator, the fix was easy. Thnaks!
Thank you so much for this. I live in my car and I dont have the money for an intake manifold to be taken off. Lol. I barely have 60$ for a Ford hose.
The construction job I do requires this car.
I was beginning to panic after seeing repair pal estimates suggesting I may need a new intake or at least to remove it to replace the hose.
So I began to pray. And as soon as I hit youtube here you are working on the exact same car I have.
Not only that, but you also explained how to fix the electrical problems I was starting to have.
Lol. I already replaced the heater core at 126k miles. I knew the damn thing should have lasted longer than that.
Id never heard of electrolysis.
I want you to know sir, that God worked all this out in your life to save me. He used your video to save me. When i was afraid of losing shelter in this horrid cold.
God bless you sir. May the Lord Jesus Christ who sends salvation every time to those who call His name bless you.
This happened to my friends 1996 grand marquis. I did this fix for him today and saved him a $900 repair bill!! Thanks so much!!
Thanks , it worked great. I have 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis. Very hard to get hose on at water pump but it worked and fixed the problem.
One note : I needed 3/4" to 5/8" straight adapter and 2 more clamps because hose was 5/8 from water pump and 3/4 at heater core.
Id suggest others use short piece of 5/8 from water pump to elbow, (buy elbow thats a 3/4 to 5/8,) 3/4" hose from elbow to heater core. What I did was leave old piece of 3/4 a couple inches out from heater core side, use 3/4 to 5/8 adapter, 5/8 hose to elbow, short piece of 5/8 from elbow to water pump.
You saved the day for me. My 96 Mercury Grand Marq blew the hose under the intake. repaired it like you have done here. However, my heater core also had a 3/4" outlet. I used a step down fitting 3/4" to 5/8" about a foot out into the engine bay. Works great. Thanks for the video.
thanks for the video, good repair to get going. This is a comment for viewers, in particular E series owners. I was fortunately able to get the pipe out an E150 van working from the back of motor and giving the pipe a 180 degree twist upon first tube restriction. It was nice to have the van's open rear access.
Thanks for posting this, it's helpful & timely!! My under intake hose took a crap on me. & your fix is perfect! I'm going to go see how good of a (back yard ) mechanic that I am. Wish me luck.
I love shade tree solutions. Why ford though it was a good idea to put a heater hose under the intake like that is beyond understanding. Thanks for the video.
I just finished bypassing the tube and now I'm leak free. :)
I never was able to see the leak, even with the alt off, it was too far in the back of the engine.
I need to relocate my climate control temp sensor, but that can wait till winter.
Thanks for the video, it was the only one I could find, so big thumbs up brother.
It's funny how a video that helped you years ago pops up in your recommended. I did this repair on my 1994 Crown Vic. I junked that car and removed this setup, put it in my storage house, and bought a Lincoln Town Car. The same problem showed up, I took the pipe setup and put it on that car. I gave that car to my dad years later now it is at 380k with the same cheap repair.
Hey buddy thanks for the tip, I was about to take the whole intake manifold out when I happened to step on your video clip and !WAMOW! what a great idea to run the heater hose that way, saves a lot of headaches, thanks again.
Excellent Vid!! I can't wait to do this on my 5.4L F150 to flush the heater core. Great tip!! Yeah, this guy deserves a Beer! Thanx so much!
Thanks. I think I'll try that line first. A local guy at the parts store that's done some of these felt strongly that it was the intake leaking and running down that hose. Maybe I can remove some things and check it with my hand or a small mirror on a wire or something. Thanks, and wow your ideas about bypassing the hose and alternator grounding are amazing!
Nice Job! I had same problem and performed this fix this afternoon. Coolant hose was really rotted as you showed in video. Only problem now, is electric cooling fan runs when coolant warms up. I'll pull and check thermostat tomorrow, since it could be a problem since my leak was there for q good while. Thanks for a great video and fix!!~
Thank you so much for this video! I have a '96 Grand Marquis and the 5/8 hose behind the water pump, cracked about an eighth of an inch in front the metal collar of the pipe. I did the repair as shown, and it's working great! Thanks for saving me a ton of money and time!.... What was Ford thinking about with that design?
I agree with you 100%. If I knew they designed it like this I would never have bought their car years ago. What were they thinking?!?!
For years I drove around with everything to change over from a Non PI to a PI intake including the PI coolant tube. The plastic coolant bypass on my Non PI intake cracked all the way from one side to the other the other day. Now it finally payed off to carry "junk in my trunk" all these years. I think I will take the old coolant tube out and put in the 4 feet of 5/8 hose like you did.
You are our man. You are great. This is a very good idea. Thank you for helping us all folks here on youtube.
Great video of how to fix a driver and bypass the Ford engineers. Fixed my heater core even worse than the one in the video. I just cut both hoses to the heater core and connected them to each other. We don’t need no stinkin heater in Miami!
Buddy thanks so much for this video. I've got a 98 f150 4.6£ as a work truck and this is my problem. Thanks again
Awesome video, cost me $24.85 for parts and about 2hrs and 45 minutes to complete. Looks factory and an easy future fix if needed. Thanks for a great idea.
saw you like the video re running hose for 4.6 engine a different way then under manifold.
trying to fix moms leak grand marquis. i know it leaks under car in rear area quite a bit under firewall area.
i was thinking it was manifold. now i am wondering. can you advise how i would know its leaking hose under manifold without removing manifold are re running hose as the guy did in the video?
did you do th
I was looking for the Hayden/Chilton fix when I came across this video. Thank you, I believe this is what I was looking for.
Thanks a million. Just finished doing this. Saves a butt load of time n money.
Hell yeah good idea..i was wonder why they put those that way,could not figure out wjere coolant was going till I did a pressure check and a pin hole in that hose.you saved me a lot of work,I owe ya a beer!\../rock on
i was wanting to do that! wicked sows there are at least 2 smart people on this planet !! Thanks from Canada eh!
This worked great!! I had to go under the right side of the alternator but otherwise it was spot on. Someone buy this guy a beer or two! Cost about $17. Thanks.
Clarification on other message: I believe that metal coolant line that runs under the manifold has a 90 degree bend that goes up to a fitting for the right heater hose and that its leaking at the 90 degree bend. Its also possible that the leak is from somewhere else and just appears to leak there. I figure it might be worth the risk to cut the line and rerun it like you did. Any thoughts?
Thats an Awesome Video and Glad you Shared it! very helpful in my situation!!!
Thank you very much for being honest! I've looked at other videos (about two weeks ago) and they showed that the heater hose connects to the right side heater core outlets and not the left side that you mention. Just today (10/10/2021). When I was about to connect the hose to the heater core outlet on the right side, I noticed that the outlet was bigger than the 5/8 hose that I connected on the other end and the left side looked like the right side my 5/8 hose would fit. Just to be sure I went to various websites including AllData. I finally came across your video. Now I know exactly where to go with the hose!!!...................ps.Before I worked on my car today, I've already slid the hose down through a hose in the middle of the intake manifold (5/8 hose). Slide it down with your left hand, Put your right hand under the manifold from the front, feel for the hose and easily pull it towards the front. Thank you for the confirmation.
Ive done this before on my 95 Crown Vic, but i replaced the entire by pass hose and yes you have take off the intake manifold off, it was a bi*tch and time consuming, i had to replace the intake manifold gaskes as well, been running great ever since, 👍😉
great vid , best rigged fix , saved me half a days work , thanks man
And the rig up beats the factory setup
Just did this to my '96 towncar and it worked out fine, thanks!
I've read most of the comments. Those that question the conversion in the video, just do it because tube on mine leaked in different places on all three repairs. The Triton engine is set so far back with so many hidden hoses, that it is actually better to follow the video exactly as recommended. You have easy access, eliminates the buried original hose with the entire operation making much more mechanical sense in design over factory design. You can make a clean transition at the firewall with a 5/8-3/4 reducer. Clean, professional and the only way to fix the forever leak problem.
Thank you so much for the info man, really worked out great. i have a 4.6 v8 1992 crown vic and it worked wonderfully. I just couldn't figure out the problem with the leaking i was having i replaced the water pump, thermostat and still no change. Saw this and worked like a dream. i was afraid to have gone through the top. i don't like taking her apart she is old lol.
1st off I want to tell you thanks for posting this video! There is a way to take the hose off without taking the valve cover off. The tool that's needed is a: "11 inch long needle nose pliers". You probably can get it at any parts store around 10 dollars! I hope that this helps you are anyone else. The only problem that I ran into is the heater core ports on my 98 grand marquis LS 4.6 eng. are 3/4 but the outter port on the block (closer to heater core housing) is smaller mines is 5/8. But all the sizes that I listed may be different on other year makes & models! 👍🏽
hi
trying to fix moms leak grand marquis. i know it leaks under car in rear area quite a bit under firewall area.
i was thinking it was manifold. now i am wondering. can you advise how i would know its leaking hose under manifold without removing manifold are re running hose as the guy did in the video?
did you do the job yet? how did you know where the leak was? i don't have a camera that i can run back in that area for a search. any troubleshooting ideas is thankful.
@@scottwatkins39 you're going to have to follow the hose from the heater core to manifold & check to see if it's leaking at the clamp that connects the hose to the manifold. I knew it was leaking when I used a high powered light to see clearly "firewall area"
absolutely amazing fix / pure genius / saved me lots of money / I love you boss stay safe
hi jason. saw you like the video re running hose for 4.6 engine a different way then under manifold.
trying to fix moms leak grand marquis. i know it leaks under car in rear area quite a bit under firewall area.
i was thinking it was manifold. now i am wondering. can you advise how i would know its leaking hose under manifold without removing manifold are re running hose as the guy did in the video?
did you do the job yet? how did you know where the leak was? i don't have a camera that i can run back in that area for a search. any troubleshooting ideas is thankful.
This is a big help, saved me some money for sure. Gonna fix it today.
I glad caught the video, I've torn my dad's top end apart to find that pipe to be leaking, it's 97 f150, after everyone else told him it was a head gasket blown??!!! Question is I purchased repair tube/part DORMAN 626221 AND NOTICED IT DOESN'T FIT AS FLUSH TO THE BACK OF THE WATER PUMP. AS I WOULD LIKE OR IS IT DESIGNED THIS WAY.?? DIDN'T WANT RO CLOSE IT WATER PRESSURE PUSH THROUGH IT??? THANKS FOR TBE INFORMATION
I have a 2010 ford f150 same thing my heater hose busted from rust, I was having so much trouble with the manifold due to rust, and I wasn't looking forward to the metal hose! You saved me time and money will.update when foxes
very ingenious idea! Thanks for sharing
It will go under the intake very easy. I just did mine and it took thirty minutes and all I took off was the alternator. But yes it will. Just drop it in from the back and you can actually reach under the intake and get it and pull it through. No 90 Degree elbows or anything. Just six feet of 5/8 hose and thirty minutes labor. Just thought this may be helpful.
That's interesting. Everyone says it won't go through. Good work
Hey man, thanks a million for this vid! I havent had this problem yet, but I do have a 5.4 engine that I drive almost everyday. If I ever need to change that hose, or have a problem with my charging system, I will remember this vid.
Awesome. Video. Thanks for posting it. it sure will save me time and money on the repair. Give you a 5 out 5.
Good Fix I did it to my 2000 f150 and works great. Mine had a metal pipe that I cut and then removed the pipe on the water pump end and installed the parts as shown. Thank You for this video.
Larry was it hard? I am disabled and have a 2000 model truck. What pipe are we cutting and what do I need?
I little tip. I did the bypass like shown but it still leaked under the intake somewhere. After investigating more, nothing looked corroded. It seems the factory plastic fitting that slides onto the metal nipple under the alternator had rubbed a hole right through the metal. It was on the bottom, which is hard to see. I had to use a small mirror and flashlight to see it. The fix was simply sliding the new hose section and clamp closer to the front, clamping over the hole.
I hope that helps so
Thank You for taking the time to post this video for us. Great video.
Excellent Fix, they wanted almost $500.00. Now the hose is serviceable in the future Thanks!!
Thanks for the heat shield idea. I'll be using that trick later on. Nice job here
Thank you, mine just went tonight & I really didn't feel like pulling the intake.
I think I will use a brass 90* but we will see.
Thanks again-Subscribed.
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You can eliminate that plastic connector by using a heater hose with a formed 90 degree bend. Most parts stores sell them. A little more expensive than straight heater hose, but eliminates two potential leak points.
thank you so much for this awesome bypass tequinique.....so happy i found this ingineuitive shop trick....but does this bypass effect the hearter from generating hot air for the heater?
@@markallen5901 No, the only thing you are really doing is "rerouting" the hose, it's not really a bypass because you're not actually bypassing anything. The original setup is just a metal pipe running under the manifold. The new setup is just a flexible hose running over the manifold. The coolant fluid is heated inside the engine and then pumped through the heater core by either routing. Kind of a, 'six in one-half dozen in the other' situation. I like it a lot...
I saw a guy fighting with that issue back in 2015 that lives three houses down from me. It was on a 2000 expedition 4.6. I never knew the outcome of his nightmare because he is the anti social distant type. But your video is worth a good 100 dollars to me to know how I can fix that if it ever happens on my 02 supcrew f150. I keep parts stocked at my house such as coils and wiring and lots of stuff and I am going to add one of those gates 90% elbows to my stock. Ill just ebay it rather than rummage through auto zone
Wow this is a Great Video. I have a 99 F150 5.4. This dam transfer tube just popped on mine. The only difference is mine is a Metal Pipe. I'm hoping I can figure something out the way you did. It may not work on mine since Mine is Metal, if not I'll be removing the Intake for the 1st time. I fix a lot of things on my vehicles but I've never taken on a job like this before. One of the Best things I learned from this video is The Grounding! I've been having Big BIG Problems with the Antifreeze in my Truck Rusting up so Fast. I've Flushed it, & Flushed Over & Over & it continues to Rust, so much so this Pipe Rusted through & Busted. I'm getting a New Ground Cable ASAP, I Never would of thought about Electrolysis. Thanks SO Much for the Video!!!!
I have the same pipe scenario in my 01 van... definitely don't want to pull the intake on a van. Did this fix work for your truck?
Wow, this was soSO helpful! Thank you very much for sharing, I can't believe I found this solution on the internet!
+Kelly D 10-4 , seems lots are happy after watching this video LOL
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Awesome video. I replaced the other intake line last week. And now I'm replacing the one in ur video. LoL
Thank you so much dude, literally saved me $435.
thank you a lot for shared this video. Today was with mechanic and told me that cost $680 include change the thermostat too. well I am going to fix it by my self and save my money. God bless you!!
Wow! You’ve saved me so much work! Thank you!
This is brilliant thank you!
this video is a life saver just did the bypass on my 95 marquis saved me lots of money
Great technique; creative solution. Who would pull the intake manifold if you can do what this video shows?
Summary of routes:
0: Expensive metal tube under manifold as supplied by factory.
1: As this video shows, extra 90 degree elbow just behind water pump.
2. No elbow, hose exits between manifold and head behind second cylinder.
3. Hose under manifold, exits at rear.
I did this repair a couple days ago so far so good 95 TC executive
IN case no one mentioned it.. ur a genius..
hi got a 96 town car. i beleive the manifold was replaced engine has 160k on it. i dont like surprises so i will ask my mechanic to reroute hose. tnx for great tip.
Thanks for the awesome video cuz i just bought a.20p05 f150 today only to have it run hot twice on the way home i actually pulled it over to check the coolant levek bone dry. Not once but twice i was kinda stumped on where it was going only to notice the smoke from the coolant rising on passenger rear of the engine. So long story short im gonna. Pull the alternater off and buy 4 ftt of 5/8s hose and.a 90 degree fitting and 4 clamps and try to do exactly as you did im hoping i shut her off before head damage if not then i have 2000 lincoln t.car with the same engine that will provide me with a donor motor only difference is the lincoln has a plastic intake this truck has a aluminum intake. And the lincoln is kinda not fixable anyways because my lil sister lost the key to it so she busted the ignitiion out to move it when i left to live in florida. After wards she got me a new steering column i installed it and guess what it still wont run so i got a purpose for it now.anyways thanks for the video dude wish me luck
Hi, I discovered a leak on that manifold cross over at the part where heater core hose goes up and back. It appears to be at the connection where that manifold bolts down. Is that a common problem and is that exactly what you are working on here?
Thanks man I was catching hell till I found this video went like hot cakes after watching you the man
Thank you for the simple awesome answer I was looking for I hope you don't mind I'm going to post this on RUclips and use your idea please tell me if you have a issue with that
hi would you tell me how long and thick was the hose ! also where did you bough it , you did a great job on the video , you are wonderfull ! okay man take care keep making videos
you are an absolute genius!
There is a second hose that goes underneath the intake that is impossible to get to without taking the manifold off. No way to tell if the other hose is leaking.
The step down on this video where the hose your replacing goes to may be needed. The 5/8ths inch hose that is being replaced is too small for the hook into the heater core. I was able to cut the hose and jam it on but it was difficult.
The metal crimp ring was a pain to get off. You will need pry tools.
This job took me about 2 and a half hours.
If you dont have small skinny hands it may not be possible.
I have small skinny hands and mine are cut up bad all over. I had to take my rings off to get in there at all.
But doing this did significantly reduce the leaking of coolant from this car.
dude u f'in rock i was so dreading thus job on my vic tomorrow!! thanx a ton!!
Thanks for sharing. About to do this very thing today.
Front of manifold (waterway) is Alum,
Trying to help a friend out, not a ford guy
Thanks again. for the help
Did this job on my 1995 Ford Crown Vic. My local napa store had a piece of 90 degree molded hose, so I didn't have to use the right angle connector. The part number is NBH 9808.
Good tip, I wonder why the Ford co. could not think of that. Thanks, I have two of those engines and was just thinking of the day when I would have to remove the intake just to replace that set-up.
Will this work on my 2000 5.4 Expedition? Brilliant video, thanks for posting!
so when you cut the old heater cord, did you simply pull the access cord out from under the intake or did you leave it under there since you said there are lil clamps holding the cord in?? i have a 93 grand marquis and my intake hose bust, and im strongly considering going about it your way.... please respond thanks (GREAT VIDEO real money saver)
I've got to remember that little trick! Thanks a bunch.
Great video man. Do u know if this repair will work for a 1992 grand marquis.? My mechanic says the pipe under the manifold is rotted out and coolant leaks right out. Looking for a quick fix.
a 4.6 is a 4.6 , they are all made the same , only thing they did any different , was where the small piece of hose connects to the pipe , the one I cut loose under the alternator , some had a crimp on them , some a actual clamp , the crimp ones take a little prying to tear them off , but it comes off ...
I've never had that problem, the best silicone spray I've used is the CRC stuff, the when I use it on vacuum lines and plugs it does take a while to dry so the hose doesn't pull off easily, after a day though there hard to get back off again!
Awesome video and a very cool fix, well done. It doesn't work on my 2001 4.6L but still a great video
hate those hard to get to things...damn designers try to build them so no one can work on them but the dealership..good video bud.
I turned on my dang ol Boomhauer translator, and then i gave a thumbs up
Awesome work around. Great job
Thanks for this, I found your video researching how to fix my 2000 expedition!
it just takes some common sense , a bit of time , and patience , and you will have it fixed right up , it's not easy easy , but it's not hard to pull it off in 30 min ...
great job!I was laughing when i seen how ya did it!cheap and effective!5 stars!now how about replacing my intake.....
Ok. Thank you. I definitely saw a rubber hose with a clamp at the water pump connection. I'm wondering where the pipe travels as it heads to the back of the engine toward the firewall
it is a heater hose , you will see 2 hoses side by side on the firewall , you can follow them , it is the one that disappears into the block ...
Thanks for the video, I have this exact problem. U da man!
omg i am so happy i saw this video! I just did the two quick disconnect hoses thinking i solved the leak. the truck overheated AGAIN!
the guy just called me and told me I would have to remove the intake to do the job! going to drive it home and do it myself:) Because you cannot see it makes it appear to be a part of the intake, which it is not. for anyone interested, the quick disconnects had to be cut on my truck 326k. I only was lucky enough to get one off in the back be using conventional method. The special tool for this did not work for me.
As a side note, I couldn't find a brass barbed 90* elbow in 5/8, but I did find one in 3/4 at Home Depot. It was a SharkBite product and fit into the 5/8 heater hose nice and snug, no problem.
Yeah that's a good idea I have a 98 Ford Expedition with a 5.4 L the heater hose worth metal part goes it's already been bypassed you know somebody done by past it but it broke off where it comes through the firewall what do you suggest
the other thing you could do to make this repair a little bit cleaner is to buy a preformed 5/8 heater hose that has 1 90 degree end on it, you can get them at most auto parts stores and they come in different lengths. thanks for posting.
+Pat V they actually make to gradual of a 90 bend and will rub through if you left it in there , and as for cost , they actually cost a bit more , less than a buck , but if you factor the clamps they are cheaper , they just don't fit in the tiny area as well ... the best way to fix it is actually intake removal , plugging the block , and drilling and tapping in a new port not under the intake , I have done that on a few I have owned personally during the plastic intake swap , only issue there is where you have to drill the block , if your off by 1/8 inch you just destroyed your engine drilling into a pressurized oil galley , why I have never shared that fix ...